Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, June 30, 1895, Page 18

Lo THE OMAHA DAILY BEE: SUNDAY, JUNE 30, 1895. e e e e e e e R R WOMAN'S DOMAIN, DeloU=0=lebo0-0=O=0==00=0="=0=O=0=0=0=0 TUE LINEN Smnrt Sommor Gir's Clad In Flax Topped with Decorntod Coilnrs, NEW YORK, June 20.—Summer dress, as seen on the highways and byways of fashion, makes, on the subjective mind, the follow- ing impressions: Unlass you have at least one linen vn or linen accessories with which to smarten up a plain stuff frock you are not In 1t at all this summer. The accessories, which are usually in shape of vast spreading collars and turn-over cuffs, at ttmes with a “front” ac- companiment, look simple, but are not ways The ¢ serlous and ALD, the neat ywns are both plain and dressy, frivolous, but the severe tailor Jooking rig in pale brown linen, that is al most as heavy as duck—on the smooth, dark woman—is the one we most want. Finally one concludes that though elilffon girl has so lately died and been lald fn ler slender tomb, a new being, who might be called the linen girl, has taken her plac In time the limen girl. teo, will away, be known to us only through medium of ridiculous old fashion plates and de fllustrations; in some of her portraits us a rather clegant person, wide-shouldered, with a plain fla a bodiea with fine embroideri-s— exquisite, little lady, who was of a longer lite than she will enjoy. SLANDEROUS IMITATIONS Alas, that there is no law to prohibit the running of a_good thing in the ground! No soocner s a desirable mede achizved than it is dono to death by standerous imitalior made to cxpire by the very movements meant to promote It. Linen being the textile of the hour, linen gowns, linen collars, linen cufts and fronts may be picked oa every tree. Not a fine lady passes you, not a stylish shop girl, but she is in some way linenized, And_though some of the things are most beautiful, others are less so; and not a few, especially certain great collars hung with coarse lace or trimmed with spangled galoon, show already fatal signs of the de- generacy that comes from overproduction. Alas! again, that this should be so, for it belittles the good things and makes one weaken at a point where both convenience and economy are at stake. The serge, whipcord or other wool frock 18 rare nowadays that does not show some- whera som> little touch of ecru linen. Not the pale cream ‘‘ecru’’ suggests, but an unbleached flax shade, tinging on green, which is closely copled in a plain batiste that is likewise used for many of the big collars. pass the walsted wkirt o deserving probably STYLES AND PRICES, Other collars are linen grenadine, a deeper tinted and more open weave, and a favorite shape for simple morning wear Is a great sailor with square fronts, that has a three- inch hem headed by a line of whita cambri hemstitching let in. clennes (yellow, for sure) or biscuit insertion trim others, and fn these models collars with gquare turnover suffs are sold as low $1.50 the set. 1.0se with the cambric hem- stitchings are more e 1 more expen- sive, running from § up, and with this style, If a natty jacket of Eton is worn, a front of whito null is a desirabl> addition, as it does away with the neutral look the linen girl is apt to have when too much swathed in her favorite textile. One of the sets bought and a pattern taken from It, other and more elaborate ones can be fashioned at home at a cost of little time or money. Two hours will be all the time needed by a fair needlewoman for those de- seribed; and threc-quarters of a yard of sage tinted batiste, at 60 cents the yard, and a yard and three-quarters of trimming, which {n valenciennes, biscuit lace or cambric hem- stitehing can ba had at 8 cents, all the ma- terials necessary. A becoming shaps in these big sailor col- | fars, and they could also be easily copied at home, s one with the fronts in two long strap pleces that run down each side of the bodice and end in the belt. With this, a tront boxpleat of the same mat:rial is a fre- quent accompaniment; but other linen and batiste fronts are the usual loose affal gathered into a ribbon stock, and bagging at OLD FASHIONS REVIVED Linen fixings on imported gowns show in their shapings a leaning toward old time models. Collars, bretelles, and revers are all made to imitate as much as possible the styles of the long ago; and with the dressy frocks sometimes shoulders are so long that the seams may be said to extend over to the arm. . With the cream,tinted batistes, fichu effects too, are sometimes scen, and on more than one skirt bottom will be found the tiny rufle gathered through the middle that was also worn at the Louis XVI. perlod. One wonderful gown had a collar that ravished all beholders. The frock itself was of deep yellow linen, that was as heavy as | duck, yet was woven with a loose sort of hop-sacking grain; and white pique formed the collar, brown yellow lace in oblong me- dallions with a border continuation being let in. A short open jacket and plain skirt com- posed the suit, and the collar, which hung with a deep round cape effect at the back, + went down the fronts of the jacket to the bottom, turning back there with square ef- fects, and in great pointed revers at the shouider This collar, which was made to button on teemed a royal trapping. And through the plaln gown was made so splendid t one felt nothing could be finer or more COLLARS AND COSTUMES. Another collar that will be found a useful adjunct to a plain or unbecoming waist, forms part of the odd body Wlustrated. It is made with rover fronts and & squaro back that hangs locse at the shoulders, and Is of grass linen with a wide border worked in white, A morning costume of plain black linen, by Violet, had the daintiest ccllar of all. It was of white muslin embroidered with scattered black dots and with ruchings of yeliow laca; the shape shouider epaulottes siashed toward the meck in triple V's, the center one longer than the two others, and the Lottoms square A stock of mauve taffeta ribbon with a great bick bow finishes the throat, and back and front the collar hangs open, showing V- shaped views of the bodice. Linen gowns, thick and thin. fixy and plain, abound. Kor the fixy ones, linon grenadine, which s shown In plain and spotted weaves, and several beautlful tints, is a favorite mate- A dim bottle blue embroidered with big dots in a deeper tint, is one elegant de- sign, and with this black footing in tiny ruches was found to be an effective bod garniture. A COACHING TOILET A linen grenadine in pale ecru had trim- miags of white embrolderies, and a stock co . lar and beit of corn flower blue velvet; and * the hat worn with this costume—which first red cosching day on top of a drag—was turban shape, with a rolied brim of oarse yellow straw and a crown of bluet al- | the | A row of narrow valen- | it | | flowers. Tt came down almost to the tips of | | the wearer's pink ears, and over it was worn | a loose vell in black net, with an appliqued | border, that mado the lady look as if she had | Just stepped out of an old-fashion plate | | The linen grenadine that didn’t go | to the coaching parade, but that are, | theless, charming, are here pictured | The costume with the dots is of pale browi | and white, with trimmings of yellow Vaien edging; lining, taft [ wns n clennes browa | sitk. The see salmon hotel piazza ar the grenadine golden 4 tollet and is is of a pale cream, over of the linen girl's 1 dance frocks. Though crisp, is as delicate as velling, and fine stitchery ornaments front of the bl body and skirt; and sash ends salmon taffeta ribbon With these frocks the w linen girl may be said to have b off. Only one costume remains, ernoon toilet in French batiste, that, r with a wide pompadour stripe, intr n her favorite sage tint, and that tiimmed with white S iss one the ase, Delt rdrobe of the en counted this is a sy 11 yellow luc But in the years to come, have long been mingled with when her hone the dust, and \ who could endure for ten minutes the filth of a “smoking car,”” in which refined men pass hours? ~The recollection of passing through one by accident to reach a parlor car is sufficient to unnerve the .average woman. Talking with a lady who has a large country home, whers she entertains exten- sively, 1 asked her opinion on this subject She gave it as follows: will_tell you our experience,” she eald, “which, 1 fear, is not a solitary one. It so happened that' two young ladies and two young gentlemen hal been passing a wee under my roof, and the morning of thelr departure my housekecper was (I, and 1 went in person to superintend the cleaning of the rooms which they had occupled “The young ladics, mind you, had been reared in the homes of culture and learning and were to all appearances da and re i wens of their sex, yet this was n of the rooms which they had upied for a week: The handsome dresser cloth was stained and spattered by tollet creams and washes A box of face powder had been overturred on the velvet carpet and the print of a small slipper toe had tracked it about the A large, unsightly roll of mixed some rose-scented scrap of her toggery remains to speak, it will tell her story well, the linen girl was a dainty creature,” | you will say. NINA FITCH. | wont TIVi S, | Clever Wor! N AS OETE Performed by Them in Vasi- ous rches of the Servi Almost every profession and business is open to the woman of today, who seems to grasp the particular methods required with | an intelligence that wins universal admiration for her capacity. Not %0 many years ago Charles Dickens laughed at the female lawyer in his character &1 “'Sally Brass,” yet at the present time how many women of an utterly different type are practicing law In various American clties! In New York it has been for some time a hicnable necessity for the rich man's daughter to attend classes and lectures_in law, and to receive, if possible, a degree. Among the many women of metropelitan fame Miss Helen Gould is noted for: her clever comprehension of legal technicalities, which will doubtless aid her in guarding her im- mense fortune. One branch of work about which little has { been written, comparativ speaking, s | womnan's career as a detective. For this her natural intuition and her interest in intrigue especially qualify the weaker (?) sex. It is a positive fact that many detective bureaus employ women regularly in the secret service, | but they guard thelr names with care and will | not reveal them. The Pinkertons have many clever women on their staff of werkers, and give them gen- erous payment for efficient accomplishment. | Their women are used in three ways: as “shadowing” suspicious character: is to say, following them about the streets and learning their haunts and habits; e ondly, | | to watch and to become acquainted with per- | | sons who are likely to know the object of the search, and who may be able to impart in- tormation. The great art here comes in quickly determink g how important this person may be, and In drawing out the required knowledge with a tact that never awakens susplcion. The third division s by riding in street cars and railway trains and watching the guards and conductors to see if they are honest with the funds they collect. Often the wives and dzughters of railway men make application at the detective burcau for this kind of work and are received. Again women | often serve through the private employment of a detective officlal, who, during the course | of an Investigation, realizes the importance | of some woman's co-operation, and engages and pays her for helping him acquire the necessary data and preserving the scent of the trail. AROUT Naoy ESS. h 18 the Cleaner Sex? Hins 1o Say. A bachelor said in my presence a year or two ago: ‘“‘Women are not, by nature or | habit, so clean or orderly men, or 0 delicate in their ideas of small matters.” I combated the assertion, with Indignant | protests, writes Ella Wheeler Wilcox in the Chieago Record, and assured the speaker that only a dizappointed bachelor, whom some woman's perfidy had soured, could make such a statement, Nevertheless, 1 set about studying hebits of the sexes in these respects, I began to question people who nad wide | opportunities of judging such matters, and the result has not been wholly complimen- tary to my sisters, First, I noticed the dress of men and women' in public conveyances. It is rarely, Indeed, one sees a man, with any claims to resp:etable attire, who displays soiled col- lar, cuffs or shirt front. But I have ob- sorved solled laces about the neck of many | an otherwise richly and fashionably attired woman, and solled white gloves are woefully in_evidence and ruin scores of handsome tollets, 1 do not think T have ever seen fringes or tatters about the ankles of a man. It seems to be an understood law among the most ordinary types of respectable men that the first raveled seam or ripped ilning shall be attended to by the tailor before the garment is worn again. But women who carry fortunes upon their backs display torn flounces and ragged laces frequently on the girset. orossings, or in alighting from ve- hicles. Only a few weeks ago I walked behind a young lady in a prominent New York avenue, and admired the perfect fit of her brand new promenade costume and the ex- quisite details, which exhibitea excellent taste and judgment of the wearer or her modiste. Hat, gloves, gown and wrap and vell were in harmony. But suddenly thera came & muddy crossing; the lady lifted her dress and showed a charming foot, elegantly Ypoted, but, alas! above it a silk petticoat With three rags hanging from it. The har- mony was ruined by a discord Just as 1 was about to emerge from a Turkish bath cstablishment one day & young | woman who speaks three languages fluently | and who belongs to a rich and influential | | | What a Woman as the and family entered and tossed uff an expensive cloak, displaying a faded siik waist which was out at the elbows and badly soiled about the neck. Her skirt was trim and modish, hor cloak and honnet irreproichable, but the | waist she wore was Inexcusably shabby. I could not help but wonder if she had ap- peared in this garment at the breakfast table. Perhaps in similar intimacy men may see similar untidiness among members of their own sex, but I doubt it. On the othes hand, where Is the woman 3 (my servant, | hours, | apes. | to do these favors for a lady, of course, but shows in | Important Rules Lald blonde and brunette “combings” protruded from a pasteboard receptacle like a last year's bird’s nest. Three toilet bottles were minus their stoppers. Four cambric hand- Kerchiefs and one glove were found under the bed and in the sweeping of the room were discovered eighty-seven dress pins, four hat pins and two lace pins containing Jewels, “When the room just vacated by the men was investigated the only souvenirs remaining were two half-burned cigars, a small heap of cigar ashes on the mantelpiece and one quill toothpick on the floor. “'Sure, an’ I'd rather clean up after tin gintlemen than one lady any day,’ remarked and In view of the contrast between the two rooms I could not rebuke her. Another hostess whom T consulted on this subject said: “I do not know that I have found men guests neater than women, but I have found them more delicate minded in regard to many matters. For instance, the scemingly best bred girls and the richest are often exceedingly carcless in small matters. They will borrow a wrap from a hostess when they have misleid their own or it is inaccessible and they will leave this garment on a veranda chair or in a boat with a reckless disregard of consequences. “They will take one's best books from the library and leave them on garden seats to be ruined by rain or insccts. They will use one’s postage stamps or hairpin, when supplies are five mwiles distant. Men are rarely thoughtless or careless in the matt If by chance they find it nec sary to borrow a topcoat or mackintosh they are extremely careful about returning it. Women have a way of taking favors for granted which is foreign to the average man."” nother lady said: “I much more than women do and they are more particuler about the details of their clothing and dress. I think it is more than balanced by many of their unclean habits —smoking, chewing, drinking and the like. {n fact, T think men are internally less clean and_externally cleaner than women.” “It is a queer thing about this new woman,” eaid a bright man to me recently. She is so awfully independent, you know —goes everywhere alone, keeps all sorts of fills all sorts of positions, yet the moment she is on the street car with a male acquaintance she takes it for granted that he will pay her fare and she is far more ready to accept money favors from him than his real bachelor friends whom she It strikes me as very odd. I like think men bathe it is amusing, nevertheless, when in the next breath she tells you how independent the new woman is of man.” At the same time this young man seemed to forget that there never would have been “the new woman” had ‘“the old man™ not been niggardly in money matters, It was because our grandmothers were obliged to ask for 5 cents and then frequently be subjected to the humiliation of a refusal that their granddaughters are making the often ungraceful scramble for men’s places and men's wages which so startles the world today. Whatever indelicacy the woman of today money maiters is but the result of Inheritance—an inheritance caused by | the injustice of men in a past age; mean- while ‘she has sufficient taste and to correct this inheritance once she alizes it. The question which remains open now is Has the American man, despite his superior claim to neatness and cleanliness, the pride pride re- | and good taste to cure himself of his awful habit of expectorating in public places and conveyances? He seems to have in the minds of the majority of people the rightful claim to better taste In many matters than sex possesses. But this one detestable ruins all the other commendable quali- It is the only habit which renders him inferior to foreign bred men, and why will he not start a crusade against it? TO BE ONE'S OWN MANICURE, pwn by & Good Authority. The care of the person in these end-of-the century days, says Harper's Bazar, s a se- rious consideration, not that our ancestors were not given over to cleanliness, but they certainly dld not consider it necessary that so much time be given up to the minor details of the toilet as Is now the case. To be bien solgnee Is an absolute necessity for every woman who desires to look ““fit” —an English expression which, like many other English slang expressions we have taken for our own, implies perfection in every detail of the appearance, and no woman can look “fit" unless her personal appearance laas bedn very carefully attended to. Not only must the gown, boots and shoes be in every way up to the mark, but hair and hands must bo kept in most thorough order, and this invo.ves in cases whcre money can not be spent without any thought, considerable time and personal supervision. Manicuring, 1ike massage, is one of the lux- urics of the age, and although the prices asked by manfcures are muca less than when it first started In to be a fashionable fad, even now the pennies fly away very rapidly, if @ professional manicure is employed. There is no reason, provided there is no dissase of the nails to combat, or no deformity of the fingers why every woman should not be able herself to keep her hands and nails in proper condition. The varicus implements, lotions, polishies, powders and acids used by the pro- fessionals are for sale in a.l the shops, and after having their bands carefully manicured half a dozen times by & skillful manicure, the tricks of the trade are ecasily learned, | and_ white. and patience and. pesseverance will enable any woman with a fairly well-shaped hand to mako it almost, beautiful. In these days an til-kept hand and dirty nalis are absolutely inexcusablc, and the, criticisms passed upon such aro extremely harsh. Hot water is,the first requisite, and a thorough washing o soaking of the hands. This is best attajned by having the hot water poured into a Dasin’ continually for two or three minutes. “The hands must be allowed to soak for fully five, minutes, and it s well, instead of soap, to wiish the hands very thor- oughly in bran, whigh makes tho skin soft Aftér the hands have been thor- oughly cleansed, the nails should then be at- tended to. Wifh a plece of orange wood stick sharpened ‘to a point, and a bit of few eler’s cotton rolled around the point and wet with the acid fhat comes for this purpose, every particie of dirt and stain should be re moved. The hands must then again be hed, this time In warm, not hot, er. cissors, very sharp and fine, must then be aken, and a'l loose flesh at the side of the nails carefuly trimmed. The nails must be shaped in a pointed oval. All roughness must be filed away, and the flesh at the base of the nails pushed smoothly and firmly back 50 that the half moon, supposed to be a point of beauty, can be discerned. It is no longer considered good form to have so much polish on the nails that they look as though they had been buttered,as was the fashion two or threo vears ago. But a certain amount of poligh is necessary. Rosaline put on over the entire nail and the end of the finger, then washed off again, and the nails brushed brisk ly with a polisher, makes the hands look very trim and pretty. The first manicuring by all odds the most difficult. After the nails and hands are once got into good condition fifteen minutes each Monday morning will ep them proper condition all the week through, i{ only ordinary care in washing ta hands, Wwith an occasional rub from the pol- Isher, s gven. Some women, of course, have far more beau- tiful hands Uaan others, but care makes an im- mense amount of difference even in very ugly fingers. Constantly pinching the ends does a lot toward making the fingers taper, and there is more than one case on record of girls with thick, stumpy fingers who have been made to wear thimbles at night on each finger to produce the tapering hand which is such a beauty. Hands which perspire are a grievous troubla and mortification, and there aro few remedles which really sesm to be of avail. Constant washing with borax in the water, or soda, does help somewhat, but the ald of a physician generally has to be sought before any radical cure can be accomplished. Very cold hands also are not to be admired, and as they show poor circulation, here again a manicure had best retire in favor of a medical adviser. But in the generality of cases where hands and health are normal there is no reason why a woman should not have a_hand_handsome enough to ba medeled If she but take time and care. White hands, delicately tinted fingers, and well-cared-for nails must needs elicit admira- tion from every one, and bear a distinctive mark of refinement which even a large size and apparently ugly shape are powerless to render hideous. THE WOMAN'S BIBL An Interview with the Originator of the Retransiation, From the numerous paragraphs afloat one is led to suppose that there is to be a new edition of the bible arranged to suit the fancy of the nineteenth century woman. That is all ajymistake, there never was the slightest intention on the part of the femi- nine revising committee of revising the en- tire bible or even any part of it for the pur- pose of giving the public a new edition of the great volume. The women who conceived this idea of “The Woman's, Bible,” as they have named the book that is designed to be a subject of indignation, agitation, interest and prob- able profit have only in view an interesting compilation of comments touching upon those portions of holy writ that especially relate to women. Such a book would have inestimable value as a reflection of the mental attitude of the women of today foward the bible, provided it were possible to have comments from in- telligent women ‘who still believe the bible to be inspired from cover to cover, as well as from those who look upon it as merely a history of the Jewlish people and the events incident to the coming of Christ and per- haps as fallible as other histories. But it appears this is not altogether fea- sible. Mrs. Elizabeth Cady Stanton, the head and front of this possible offending, in a recent interview with the writer says of this—but, without doubt the whole interview would be of interest, being at any rate an authentic statement of what the women hope to do with the “Woman's Bible.” “Mrs. Stanton, will you tell me, for pub- n, what is the “Woman's Bible?" he Woman's Bible' is to consist of com- ments on those parts of the bible that refer to women, which can all be found in about one-eleventh part of the Old and New Tes- tament. “How long will it be before the book will bo ready to be given to the public?” “We hope to get it out within a year, but may not.” “What was your idea as to your coadju- tors in the work?” “My idea was to have all sects and shade of thought represented, to get the opinion of the women of the nineteenth century as to what they thought of the bible. But I fear that I shall not succeed in that. Evan- gelical women believe that it Is the work of God, and it would be irreverent to pass any criticism on it. Liberal women reject it al- together as authority and think it a waste of time to read it, much less write about it.” ““‘What is your own opinion?"” “I do mot agree with either side. The book has a strong hold on multitudes of women and is the chief block in the way of their emancipation. The general tendency ELIZABETH CADY STANTON. th teaching: is ¢to degrade wom to her anjinferior position, subject to 1t mak:s her the origin of evil, mar- a condition of slavery, maternity a The Pentateuch makes all females a female lamb too unclean for a burnt offering. and decide for yourslf.” “What Is proposed as the mission of the woman's bible?" “I want to show women written by men for men, blasphemy for the authors to claim that God has degraded the mothers of the race No man has evir seen or talked with God, and when those old, Hebrews tell us d sald so, we know I’ was a fignient of their imagination.” “What 1s work?"" “I am commenting on the Pentateuch and hope to g:t that'out, as part first, during the summer." The women who have worked long and faithfully for the emancipation of their sex have long ago come to realize the powerful weapon their enemizs hold in these three words, “The bible says.” While the great mass of women believe the bible to be the actual wurk of God, its authority closes thelr ears to all allusions to ths taking of any position on any subject whatever mot in accordance with the teach- ings of the testaments. Therefore it will be seen that the breaking down of the au- thority of the bible as the nspired word of God will give an added impetus to the women's movement, which has always found its strougest opponents in the puipit, and its general teachings of the inferiority of women based always upon the word of God as revealed in the bible. Mo one will gainsay, no matter what posi- tion he or she may take on the woman ques- tion, that the leaders who plan the cam- paigns of the suffrage party have made Nu- poleonic efforts for the cause, and that thia last movement of blunting the edge of the keenest sword that is wielded agalnst them that the book and that it is a to ‘be your own share in the Read the five books through | 1s | e 11! a stratagem worthy of their already well {Iulhllll and useful things. They will be from 8 to 16 years old and they will be Instructed in such desirable lore as swimming, rowing, entertaining guests, hing varieties of trees and of birds earned laurels as leaders of what has 80 long looked upon as a forlorn hope. K. N. Fashion Notes. Powder-blue fs the latest gray to be designated. Butter-colored straw hats are with bows of straw and | teaves. White pique skirts are worn with silk or grass linen shirt waists by the up-to-date summer girl. Large lace collars hava bocome so univer- popular that they must be of rare quality to be at all noticeable nowadays. One of the special features of the latest Parls gowns Is the Mario Antoinette fichu, which seoms to be slowly but surely gaining in favor. shade of blue- trimmed clusters of vy be buckles, and the more filigree work displayed in' them the more costly they are A French dress of ecru linen batiste Is made with an open work yoke of linen passe menterie, backed with red. Belt and are of gay red plaid ribbon. A novelty seen in silk walsts has the sleeva set in from the neck in rather large pleats, which is especially pretty for slender figures, as it gives width across the bust. Shirts that require stiffening of any Kind should be interlined with fibre chamols, but only the genuine should be used. The im- tat'ons are worse than useless, For cool days at the seaside mountains pretty bodices of ch French flannel for young girls and misses ara provided to replace starched shirt walsts The prettiest new petticoats are made of glace silk, with large flounces of muslin trimmed with lace, these flounces be ng so made that they can be detached to visit th laundress, Irish guipure and Carrickmacross— Irish lace—are made up into collar: shaped, and the latter is a ve variety of Irish lace, but is scarcely spited to every section as a guipure. Ta'lor made suits of white and pearl-gray atin-faced alpaca and pique are included in y smart wardrobes. They are made with short natty jackets and full skirts fitting tightly around the hips. Gauze Is used In one W upon nearly every hat that is worn. If it is not in the form of rosettes, it is accordion plaited and is made into funnel-like fans that stand up in place of ribbon loops. Sleeves grow larger as the season vances, and more expensive, If possible. Whether made of silk, wooien or cotton goods, fibre chamols is the Interlining used where a really good effect is desired. Traveling gowns of mohair are being made with the fullness of the skirt carried over each hip in a scries of very fine pleat stitched down flatly and visibly. With many of these skirts Is worn a short cape, instead of a jacket or a blazer. The things most gorgeous now are hats A hat of only one tint is an object of con- tempt among its parti-colored fellows, amil should a girl come out with peonies and sunflowers in her hat, she would probably not causo much of a sensation, The most stylish black dresses for gencral wear are made of alpaca, with a round waist, plain in the back with blouse cffcet in front, opening over a loose vest of ecru batiste trimmed with lace, while a wide col- lar of batiste, square across the back flaring out in the sleeves, extends down the front to a point at the belt. Dark blue al- paca is pretty made and trimmed in the same way. White gloves are worn with the smartest toilets for day wear. Those of kid stitched with black are more dressy and stylish than the chamois, which are relegated almost en- tirely to traveling and driving wear. The Biarritz style are much used, though the tight wrist with large white buttons ire also fashionably worn. These white gloves lean beautifully, and are not so extrava. gant as they seem at first thought, on this account. One pair will admit of repeated cleanings. Among decorations of natural flowers there is a decided fashion for the variety of tulips known as “Parrot” tulips. These are much used for table decoration and few flowers are so effective. The long, beautifully siwped leaves, with their deeply serrated edges, can hardly be surpassed for beauty cf tint. Many of the blooms are staincd with vividly con- trasting colors. There is none of the stiffness of the ordinary tulip about these beantiful blossoms, and the only fault that can be found with them is that they are scentless. Although the shops are full of collarettes, plastrons, yokes, and the entire list of fancy neck wear, many of them extremely low- priced, it IS wise to buy with great caution The fit of a collar is always the crucial test of a bodice’s elegance, and no two persons take quite the same ‘‘hollowing out. Many of these little toilet additions can b> found to fit one admirably, and care should be taken that they are so found. As many more do not fit_the purchaser at all, and if it is not altered to suit her, she adds one more to the long list of women Roing about with ill-adjusted neck gear. and in the y or another ad- now Feminine Notes. A woman auctioneer has made her ap- pearance in London, the first of her specic The remains of the late Miss Emily Faith- full have been cremated, according to her ex- presced wish. Queen Victorla has signed the bill making full woman suffrage in South Australia an accomplished fact. The princess of Wales has a tea service of sixty pleces, and each piece is decorated with a photograph which che took herself in Scot- land. The third woman to receive the degree of LL. D. is Miss Frances Willard. ~The other two thus honored were Maria Mitchell and Amelia B. Edwards. Miss Lillian Chandler is at the head of the stringed instruments in Boston's woman or- chestra. There are forty-five members be- side the few men necessary for the heavy instruments, Mme. Muhling, well known as a translator of French dramas into German, recently celebrated her 100th birthday at Berlin, She is still vigorous, both physically and mentally. Lady Margaret Scott, who has won the ladies” golf championship in England for the second time, is the second. daughter of the earl of Eldon and great-granddaughter of the great lord chancellor. The most accomplished lady of English royal family is Marie of Russia (duchess of Edinburgh), who i a thorough linguist and an admirable planist as well. She devotes several hours a day to her music. The duchess of Marlborough displays good American taste in electing to drop the higher- sounding title of duchess, to which, though married, she is still entitled, and to be known in future as Lady Willlam Beresford Frau Marie Harder, a Danish lady, has just made her literary debut at the ripe age of 70 with & volume called “Yule Star.”" Like the work of so many infant prodigies, nothing remarkable is claimed for it except the age of ite author. Sarah Bernhardt alternating extreme conditi She is said to ordinary peasant’s cottage in an obscure village, where it is her Intention to spend the summer, living as nearly as possible like her neighb Mrs. Henrotin, president of the General Federation of Woman's Clubs, sald recently in an address that the club idea, speaking generally, is undergoing great modifications. | Most of the new clubs are not only becoming more or less civic assoclations, but engaging in large financial undertakings Mrs. Grimwood, the woman whose name came prominently before the English-speak- ing public in connection with the Manipur Qdisaster, has relinquished her widowhood in favor of a Mr. Miller. It will be remem ber that her husband was massacred, and she escaped from the besieged garrison through a most thrilling experience. The European fellowship offered by the Woman's Educational associetion of Boston was awarded this year to Miss Mary M Kingsbury. Miss Kingsbury graduatel fr Boston university in 1590, and during the past year has been taking advanced work In soclel economics at Radcliffe. She will con- tinue the same line of work in Berlin The women of Tacoma, Wash., are believes, luxury apparently, in with primitive have rented an en- industries.” They have formed a league whose members pledge themselves to givo preference always to articles manu- factured in Tacoma or produced in the state and to labor to bring others to their principles. The women are woiking in th matter with an astonishing vigor and have succeaded In booming local traje to a notable extent. Miss Bainbridge, who is a member of the faculty of the New York Cooking #chool, “home been | All sorts of odd designs are seen in s'lver | collar | llie and fine | gaged i a very active crusade in favor of | is to have charge of a class of girle at Chautauqua this summer and to teach them 1 & fGrmMer recslved ms HMIEN CAO0I Mipina 3 > (ol Ay, o A cooking, receiving and distingul and the like. Mrs, ha principles in the minds of the children. It will be the exclusive form of patriotism fostered by the Sons and Revolutlon, however, as only those children who will be eligible to membership in one of those distinguished organizations may be- come members of this soclety, “The Children of the Revolution.” Modistes say that who refuse to wear stiffened skirts which Ing fashion constantly increases. complain and criticise bitterly of hanging such a welght fon the number the heavy are still of wcmen lined and the nrevail- Physicians the practice the lips | women who'do it and then suffer from backs ache and indigestion courtesy that alike in their hands. Skirts now often made without lining, the sHft skirt b worn beneath and suspended from the should- ers by straps of the skeleton waist form Three recent beque show that thelr discriminating. tion ot $25,000 told tho with rem ari the evil and ly are from as many women iving is both generous and Mrs. Minturn's noble dona- i valuable as an impetus asido from the handsome sum of money which it is for the establishing of a‘‘pay hospital” for contagious discases, has been llowed by a gift of $5,000 from Mrs. Clara teheock of New York to endow a “free * at (ho Mary Hitchcock hospital, Dart uth_college, and still more rec th w York Deaconess Home and Training School of the Methodist Eplscopal church has profitel to the extent of over 000 from the cstate of the late Mrs, E Kelsme Jane What Women Are Doinc. Nearly a hundred women fell to in Cinein- nati the othes day and thoroughly cleaned the dirt from one of the filthiest streets in that eit Mrs. Baker, 60 years old, of Dickinson Court House, Va., has just obtained the position of mail rider in her district, which Is ono of the wildest of Virginta The Salina, Kan., girl who telegraphed in- vitations to her wedding knows what to do with a bird in the hand when she gets him. Mrs. George Ingalls of Green Bay is the first woman who learned to set type in north- ern Wisconsin, Emily Faithfull combined her work for the cause of women with a love for strong cigars, of which she was an Inveterate smoker. She took to tobacco at first to relieve her asthma The fact that sixty-two literary ladies sat down to dinner together in London recently is viewed by a leader writer for an Engl'sh daily as ominous and portentous to the future of man in literature, Miss Mary Garrett of Baltimore, daughter of the late President John W. Garrett cf the Baltimore & Ohlo railroad, while generally conceded to be the wealthlest unmarried woman in the United States, is plain and un ostentatious in her way of living and cares for little clse but the development of the philanthropic and educational projects in which she is engaged. Alphonse Daudet was not in his references to Englishwomen. “Not only is she not handsome in featur he says, “‘but there is nothing seductive in her physical form, and, moreover, she is an utter stranger to elegance and good taste. The Englishwoman whom you encounter in Paris, with her flattened-down hair and huge feet, differs in no single particular from the Eng- lish lady of rank whom you meet in salons, on the turf and at the play. It gave me a real thrill of pleasure on reaching Paris to be- hold our pretty Parisiennes, with their fas- cinating toilets.” 1t is rumored, says the Chicago Record, that a lady of consplcuous standing in Chicago so- clety has recently been in Parls for the pur- pose of being re-enameled. It is said that this lady was enameled for the first time four years ago. The art of enameling the face and bust is most skilifully practiced by cer- tain Parisian experts, but even the work of these genluses does not last forever; the woman who once submits to the proceeding has, in all seif-defense, to return to Parls every fourth year to be re-enameled, for the enamel, whenit wears off, leavos the skin parched and yellow that it can never recover its natural elasticity or natural color. The earlier attempts at enameling the human skin imparted a doll-like expression to the face and prevented play of the facial muscles. The art has progressed and been improved to such an extent that the enamelee can now smile, laugh and express every varlety of emotion without danger to her bogus com- plexion or to herself. The process of enamel- ing is a very delicate one and involves a considerable expenditure of time and of money. complimentary ey 1 LOVE THEE. Written for The Bea 1 love the Not all the burning words of passion That all the world of lovers fashion Can tell the love I feel As at thy feet I kneel— I love thee, T love thee, Within my heart there's'such a glowing That all the winds of heaven blowing Could not put out, but make A fiercer flame awake— I love thee, 1 love thee, It heaven ftsxell were for my choosing, Or thou—I"d hold it well the losing, For_hell could only be A blissful place with thee— T love the —WILLIAM REED DUNROY. HUMPHREYS' SPEGIFICS CURE ROSE COLD AND DYSPEPSIA psin’’ feel Cor Dr and I- What might be called “hot wi is known by weak stomach ing. The head swims—the ct and strengthen the w Humphreys' Homeoepathle Specific No. 10, you will pass through the summer with a fe ing of buoyancy unknown to Dyspeptics. GACT LIKE MAGIC” ather Dysp: ne, sickish vitality is low. Kk stomach with Mrs. H “Humphr could n D. Downey, 42 W. 0th St *s Specifics ‘act like exist without them. N for Dyspepsia and all stomach troubles. my husband years before his death, v scribe No. 10 for everything." 477" FOIR ROSE (OLD AND HAY FEVER v N. Y., says agie' with me, I 0. 10 is my idea] In fact od to pres 3 Jordan, . ., writes: “I have tried 77 for Hay ¥ A have found it to b all that you claim. It gav I diate rellef, which all doctors have failed to do in the last five years." Humphrey's § sent prepaid on 1 $1.00(may be assor UAL (enlarged TUMI Cor. Willian FOR ANY INDISPOSITION or five s MA Ifles wipt of 1. DR price ot HUMPHRI and_ revised ) MATLED {RIY'S MEDI and John Sts., [ake Only one Dose Black Tonic at night when you retire and you will have a Kood might's rest and awake in the morning feoling a8 fine and bright as & new silver dolar. TRY IT AND SEE, You will ferl happy and enter upon your day's duties with a light heart and contente: mind, and be able to do twice us much w and not feel a bit fatigued. PRICE ONLY $20 PER F THREE worth more PTLE. OTTLES FOR $.00. Every dose ls than wy ask for three bottles, “CAsk Your Druggist for a Bottle.— Manufactured only by B'ack Ton'c Medicine Co., ST. LOULS, MO, Lothrop of Boston, widow of the pub- lisher, is about to form a socloty which will ve for its object the Inculeation of patriotic Daughters of the THE DOCTOR'S COLUMN, M. G. A, Philadelphia.~I am troubled very much’ with spots on iy logs, some: times they are red and itch. ho with pure soap and tepld wates every night. After drying carefully, apply carbolated vaséline; take Thyrodine in thres Qrop «loses morning and ovening. 8. M., St Louls.--Take Testine in five drop doses three timos a day for your coated tongue, and for the bad taste take Natrols | Ithic Sait, one teaspoonful dissolved in & | half turabler of water, before breakfast and before retirin W. B. L., New York.—T am a plano tune mv-rl troubled with a discharge from my lel car, Use boracle acld powder. Wash out the eap gently with pure warm water at & tempers ature of 100 deg. F. Take Cerebriue, anis mal extract, In throe drop doses, three times daily, R. G., Wilmington.—For the melanchollia which you mention, take Cercbrine, extraet of the brain, in five drop doses, morning and evening, B. L., Syracuse., N. Y.—For the depression of spirits dependent on the Injury to the gens crative system take Testine in three drop 1o three times dally. A. W., Washington.— Y not those of locomotor ataxia, but Cerebrine, extract of the brain, would be an excellont remedy for the nervous symptoms you men- tion three drop doses, three times daily tongue. Miss C. L., Buffalo.—~For the anaemia which you mention, take Cardine, extract of the heart, in five drop doses, morning and evens ing, with as much out-of-door exercise as possible and plenty of nourishing food. W. T. PARKER, M. D. inquiry on medical Columbin Chemical D. C., will be an- in these columns or by our symptoms are All letters of subjects dirceted to th Company, Washington, swercd free, either mall direct. ST A NTT WTDASTO THE ANIMAL EXTRACTS The most wonder ful therapeutic discovery since the days of Jenner, CEREBRINE, - = From theBraim. or discases of the braln and nervous stem, MED From the Spinal Cord. For epilepsy, Locomotor Ataxia, ete. CARDIN - - From the Heart Tor diseases of the heart. TESTINE, For premature decay. OVARINE, For diseases of Women. THYROIDINE, for Eczema and impuritios oc the blood. Dose, 5 Drops. Price. Two Drachms, §1.00, ALL DRUGGISTS, Send for Book. FEBRICIDE PILLS For Malarial Affections and all fnflammas tory diseases of which fever is an accoms paniment. Of inestimable value In neurale gla; for sick hgadache a specific. Price, per box of 20 pills, S0c; 100 pills, $2, N ROLITHIC SALTS For habitual constipation, torpor of the bowels or inaction of the liver, headache, gastric dyspepsia, Intestinal dyspepsia, want of appetite, languor and debility. As a mild, effective purgative it has no equal. Price, 50c per bottle, COLUMBIA CHEMICAL COMPANY, Washington, D, €, For salv by KUHN & CO., 15th and Douglas, Hair Tonic It affords me ttention of Ladies and Gentlemen: great pleasure to call the the public to my Yale's Ilair Tonie, which is the first and only remedy known to chemistry that positively turns gray hair back to its original color without dye. I personally in- dorse its action and give the publie my solemn guarantee that it has been tested in - eveny Concelvable way, and has proved itself to be the ONLY Halr Specific. It STOPS HAIR FALLING immediately and ereates a luxurious growth. Contains no injurious ing dient. It is not sticky or greasy the contrary, it makes the halr soft, youthful, fluffy. keeps it in curl and re- moves dandruff. For gentlemen and la- dies with hair little gray, streaked gray, entirely y. and with BALD HEADS, it is specially recomme Temple ¢ Guide to Beauty mailed free. Complete Outfits, - First Short Clothes. - Ladies’ Underwear Send name and get Made to Order. Illustrated Descriptive Lists Free, SCHULZ & CO., Washington-st. Formerly Dora Bcluls Mfg. Co, l’/ HICKASAW 7/ TRADE MARK L) Chicheater's b Diamend Tirand. ENNYROVAL, PILLS rl‘:‘nul ‘flfl :c‘ P ;: ol ot L Kad an Gl st QN o wih b Tt "Foke » e cbionse AL ruAgiai. or send i sanpe or einaals S P g e Onteliester Chemical Beld by o Locas Diuggioia, = “