Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, May 19, 1895, Page 10

SUNDAY, MAY. 19, 1895. TING DRESSES. Tidy, Becoming and Comfortable Costames that Athletle Women Will Wear. A fair maid in trousers, or the next thing 10 them, 15 a pleasing enough sight. But the wiew of a comfortable mother of sons in divided skirts, or a virtuous and vinegary spinster In knlckerbockers, are things to quail the stoutest heart Divided skirts, bloomers and knickerbockers are all being worn by ‘“wheel” women in New York, Lut the short skirt and Eton bodice 16 the favorite costume for this exerclse, Covert suiting, in a pale brown, s the ma-| terfal, and the scant skirt 12 cut with riding habit snugness across the The bodice has a coat back, which is mor the usnal cut-off Eton back, a stitching finishing all edges. A sweater in loose white wool, made dr-ssy with a laced front and balloon leeves, 1s worn under it; for thowgh many fair cyclists still eling to the more feminine silk blouse, sweat- ers are acknowledg:d as more the thing for bicycle wear. hips. neat talivr In lleu of petticoats, bloomers are worn under the skirt, being met at the knee by long laced boots In thin yellow leather, with flat heels and very pliable soles For those who prefer them, there are shorter boots and shoes to be worn with canvas, cloth or lcathir galters. But the long boots are less heating than the gaiters and make ankles scem smaller and more shapely, which, of course, are always points to be considered. . The hat with the jaunty black side wing being worn with the costume, Is the newest bicycle shape out It is of the same covert suiting as the cos- tume, and the visors are so arranged that they BICYCLE GOWN. can be turned up and down to suit conveni- ence. , Other athletic exercises call for distinctive toilets. Golf skirts are even shor er than those for the whirling “bike,” ease of muscle and freedom of movement being considered above everything for this game. The skirts of the {mported golf suits strike dut a shade below the knee, and are of a phenomenal scantness. The native article is longer, often to the ankles, and more vol- uminous. .. The fayotite;and wmost becoming model for the bodive Is a Norfolk shape with 103> front that may be belted in or.not as the wearer “Tikes. Golf materials are whipcord, Scoteh tw:el and flannels, and in the whipcord there are beautiful mottled effects in mixed colors that make up stunningly. A golf costume lately scen is of (palo brown, with an under glint of scar- Iet, which colors are reproduced in the Scotch cap and hand-knit plaid stockings. The heavy ibbed tops of the stockings turn over in the {grescribed golt fashion, and a belt and shoes ot brown leather add a stylish finish to the t-up. Very pretty, -indeed, maiden. But fancy a thin-legged girls are o Bames—capo! Girls gl for the right golf thin-legged glrl—and hopelessly fond of ng over a field in such a rig! :n to mountain tramps and heal thy campings out are to wear whip- eord and tweed-frocks in soft browns and greens, For those who wish more freedom than a skirt allows, there are dashing French “Kknickers” that are made very full about the hips, narrowing (o the knee, where they are fastencd with a band and buckle, and the Jacket for these is usually a tight-fitting, long-skirted affair, cut short at the waist in front, and opening over a vest and mannish shirt of eolored cotton. Hugs handkerchie of fine linen In solid tinis can be had throat protectors, and when knotted under a pretty chin, these are a coquettish as well as useful accessory to a mountain get-up A comfortable and stylish outing frock is of checked ‘tweed in hunter's green, which is fust about the shade of natural foliage. The bodice, which Is a close-sleeved shape with only two front darts, is nicely ad- justed at the waist with a leather belt; a ‘convenient leather bag provided with various pockets hangs at the left hip, and there are also natty breast pockets stitched flat to the bodice. Bloomers and long canvas garters take the place of petticoats, and the Alpine hat s in the same texture as the gown When §t comes to lawn tennls costumes, there Is really very little that is new in the way of cuts and materials. The same striped, dotted and plain white flannels long used are to be worn, and, of course, skirts will be unlined and bodices as loose as possible. Yachting girls are taking a hint from yachtsmen for thelr new summer toggery. The dalntiest of the new yachting gowns yet seen Is one that will bo worn aboard Commodore Prime's yacht, the Anaconda, in oJuly. Tt kas just been designed for a dash- MOUNTAIN DRESS. fog New York girl, and comprises a kilted skirt of white duck and & pea jacket of blu jerge that doubles over the chest with a truc nautical alr. Large brass buttons decorate front of jacket; revers, collar and cufts are of the duck, and for washiug convenience are made to button on Other yachting and made entirely of duck, with plain gored skirts and short reefer or box coats, that are to be worn over loose silk waists. Hand- somer ones are of white serge and fannal, boating frocks are | beeoming than | and not uncommonly these are lined through- out with rich white silk. joys’ patent pumps make stylish and com- fortable yachting shoes; but whera white shoes are desired, unless ankles are very shapely, It Is well to remember they should be worn with black stockings. The favorite yachting cap is of white duck or canvas. NINA FITCH. WOMEN AS sWIMMERS, Learning to Swim a Neces Not an Accomplishment. Swimming should be a necessity, not an accomplishment. A girl once sald that be- cause she ran to the end of a short whart, Jumped off into thirty feet of water and swam back to shore she was a nine days wonder at the hotel. Yet there were seventy-five men in the house, all of whom could do the seme thing, thinking it only child's play. Women go year after year to the eeaside but they do not learn to swim. How many of them can go with men beyond the break- ers? Singularly enough city women are far better swimmers than their country or coast sisters How often is it the case that a little ur- chin will be thrown from the side of a boat and fold to swim? Why, they take to it as naturally as an alligator. To begln with, they never seem to have any Instinctive awe for weter. For them no hidden stumps, under tows, oyster beds or tangling seaweed hold any terror. When fear is eliminated Rood swimming is invariably the result. After all, it may be materially a question of strength, this markel difference in the ability of the sexes to swim A boy jumps into unknown depths, trusting to his strength of muscle and sinew to pull him through. A woman has no euch quality on which to depend. She knows her back is weak, her arms more like cotton than steel. It is this inherent consclonsness of weakness t makes her shrink, although she couldn't probably define the reason of the feeling There is this pecullarity about a wom swimming, she will either swim “dog" ity, n's or “frog” fashion, the former being the easier, the 1 the correct way. A woman rarely, if ever. uses the over hand stroke to any advamtage. There are women known to have done so, but they find it impossible to keep it up or make any progress, All the men use it to the ex clusion of other methods. That it is swifter lo shown as swimmers all adopt it when racing. This may be another reason why all women swim slowly. The arm, in this stroke, is brought backwards, then over the head and plunged forward, the shoulder belng entirely out of the water at each stroke. The motion seems to precipitate the body through the waves, the action be- ing rarely graceful, but forceful. It is ey actly as if one were pulling themselyves through the water by means of a taut rope I lately asked a physician why it was that women never make use of this stroke. He answered that these powerful strokes we: mad> by means of the muscles across the chest. In a man these muscles are strongly developed, For a woman the bosom takes the place of these sinews, catting off the means of her ever making this stroke of any use (o her. Again, a woman is rarely a good diver, even though she is an expert swimmer. Physicians xplain that it is owing to her weak back She does dive in sort of fashion, anding on a slight eminence and gracefully incline herself head downward into the water. Even this is indulged in only by a few. A woman dreads giving herself up to space in this in- verted attiude. Simply because-her back may play her false or the blood rush to the brain. Now, a word as to bathing suits. Women enter the race handicapped by the garments they wear. Does a rumner put lead into his stockings when he races? Flannel is the heaviest kind of cloth, and yet women cling 10 it as a bathing suit. A stockinet garment that comes from heel to shoplder, so that the welght s taken off the walst, is best. Over that a long Russian blouse of black wash silk or alpaca loosely belted and short sleeves. Then every muscle can work easily and natu- rally. The blouse throws off the water, re- mains light, and the swimmer has no extra weight 1o contend with, Wear a suitable bathing suit, cultivate Judgment and there 1s no reason why any woman shouldn’t swim. These two fequire- ments once saved a_ woman who couldn't swim five strokes.’ She was fn a: rowhoat, was run down by a steamer, overtiened, and the boat rolled over her. She hgd on all wash silk garments, and judgment enough to keep her mouth closed: This lattér act ex- cluded the water, thereby making her body buoyant. kY When she came to the surface she used her fine strokes, caught hold of the boat and pulled herself in. The boat began to sink and she stood up in It, forgeting that every inch of her body out of water m2ant so much dead weight. The boat, being of wood, would not have sunk below the oar locks it she had sat still, for the pressure of the water around her would have relieved it of her weight, Lo, over the skiff went again. She kept the air in her body, and, coming to the surface, used her five strokes for the second time. This time she got astride of the stern and waited until the steamer’s boat picked her up. True, silk garments and a cool head saved her, but had she known how to swim, think of the danger she would have been spared! That a natmtorlum should be connected with every large school for girls Is & maticr of prime lmportance. It may be beyond woman's power, {rom physieal reasons, to ever equal men as swimmers, but it should be her duty at least to learn alk she can of the art. A HOT WEATHER FLOWER. Nusturtiums Thrive in Poor, Sandy ~ol, aud Need No Nourishment. If there s any one flower among the numer- ous annuals peculiarly adapted to the needs of the amuteur gardener, that flower is most certainly the light-hearted, cheery nastur- tium; It stands drouth and heat as no other annual can, it asks for little or no care, it requires no scientific methods in the grow- fng. and it blooms with prodigal liberality when other plants give but two, three or four blossoms at a time. Wheat Is best about this plant is this—it needs only light sandy sofl, and no plant food. In fact, it we attempt to feed the nasturtium, it will cease putting forth buds. In late spring when 1 am worrying about how and where I ecan get food enough fo feed my dahlies and roses, my nasturtiums are thriving splendidly in the poorest, sandiest sofl of the garden! But there Is a secret of success growing of this pretty flower, connected with all in the as there is others which are beau- titul and simple—It must have plenty of air and sunlight; a lttle water, too, around its roots will make a difference In the num- ber of flowers the plant will yield; there is really no plant which, if left to iiself, will show s full capacity in the yield of flow- ers. I may start a nasturtium seed where I can be pretty sure the coming plant will yield not a single flower, and I may also Dlace the same seed where, under different conditions, I eal be equally sure of gath- ering at least 200 blossoms when the th of bloom arrives! The key to success, then, with the nasturtium, depends upon sunlight, sandy soll, a little moisture constantly at the roots, and no manure; or at least so very lite that it is scarcely ‘worth while o men- fon it. 2 The varieties which, to my taste, are Jnost attractive, are as follows: tug of Tom Thumbs, brilliant scarlet. Prince Henry, pale yellow and rose (a new variety). King Theodore, velvety-maroon, dark. Empress of Indla, deep velvety-red. Aurora, salmon, bufish Bronze, old gold. Bdward Otto, (tall), light brewnish lilac (sometimes called Heinemanni). Rose, scarlet-pink, deep. | Pearl, pale straw, yellow, Crystal Palace Gem, pale straw yellow, five red-maroon_spots. Golden King, golden yellow Chameleon, bronze red and gold streaked. Thero {s positively no scarlet nasturtium equal in brillianey to the my list. Furthermore, the King of - Tom Thumbs, as well as the Empress of India, has extraordinarily dark, blulsh green foliage, with a purplish edge which fs extremely novel The seed should be planted at different times to secure continuous bloom; the nas. turi fum put in the ground (an inch only below pear fifteen days later just pushing upward into the sunlight; another fifteen days and the plant should be five inches high and develop quite a number of leaves; two weeks more and It will begin to bloom, sparingly at first, but later with such spendthriftdayish- ness that it will require daily attention to keep the full flowers off the plant—they must be ‘picked, or else the yield will soon piay ou To insure a good crop of flowers in Septem- ber the seed may be planted about the middle of July. I find by experfence that the Lobblanum class is later flowering than the dwarf, and the seed should be put in the ground early. The dwarf nasturtiums are charmingly plettrezque when grown In a tub raisel fiftee) Inches or so above the ground: among them might be planted, by way of contrast, a long-limbed Lobblanum, whose graceful stems should be allowed to hang carelessly over the edge of the tub. This artistic kind of care- lessness s an important part of that picturesqueness without which a garden fails to_be truly beautiful. Nasturtiums are too unconventional for mechanical effects, Just a bit of lattice, a picturesque tub, a group of the flowers, strong in contrast of color, and & bit of rustic fence, on which the cHmbing varlety may be trained to stretch its vigorous limbs—these are the little touches of artistlc grace which make the garden really beauti- ul, There are few of us who are aware of the remarkable ability of the nasturtium, which originally came to us from the hot climate of Chili and Peru, to continue in bloom for a long period through the summer and early autumn. It makes no difference how intense the summer's heat, or how dry and parched the garden is for want of rain; where the hose and watering pot only alleviate the sufferings of other plants, they are quite sufficient to the needs of the nasturtium. From the 1st of June to the middle of October, by early and late planting of the | seed, the flowers will continue to bloom with THE FIREY KING. unabating vigor. And such quantities of flowers, too! from six dozen plants, which need not occupy a space larger than five feet square, one should b able to gather during three weeks' time not less than 6,000 flowers! This yield is nothing extraordinary for the nasturtium. One little plant properiy situated (mark that I say situated, not cared for) will yleld during its life fully 160 blossoms. If we will multiply this by 72 the result will stand over 11,500 flowers; I might also add, in alnost every color of the rainbow! 1 really do not know of any other anhual, which could make as flne a showling. But the nasturtium will not dccomplish so much unaided; every single flower must be picked as soon as it arrives at' maturity; not one seed gheuld be permitted to-grow, and it 1s even advisable to reduce, by picking, the l.number of leaves, lest thelr shadows rob the buds of the proper amount of sunlight. The paths of the gardemer are not paved with roses, but his riches are inexhaustible, It he does mot mind a lame back! ‘‘Some- body,” Cella Thaxter sald, “‘asked me how I managed my garden, and T answered, ‘with love If we really learn to love the nasturtium and give it ample opportunity it will pour into our laps thousands of flowers. It we do not take the trouble to pick the flowers we may be quite certain the nasturtium will conclude we do not care for it and the yield will at once cease. When one pauses to consider in the whirl and scurry of busy life what a flower means, and how much happiness and comfort it brings to those who love it, and how many there are who seldom see one—the sick. the sorrowing, the suffering ones in _hospitals, and those who know nothing about the spreading green of the meadow, with its countless wild flowers, and the happy woods filled with shimmering, green sunlight, shift- ing shadows and the songs of birds—when one, I say, stops to think of all this, the plty of it Is that the nasturtium, with fts wealth of bloom and easy culture, is not better known; the seed ought to be sold by the ton one which heads | throughout the country, especially in the clties, and those of us who can do so, (even it it is within the narrow confines of a win- dow box) ought to grow a few of the pretty plants for the sake of the happiness each lit- tle flower will bring into the world. If we supposa the flower might not meet with the appreciation it deserves, let us gather a large bunch of the bright blossoms, and, passing through the streets in the poorer district of any one of our great cities, give to each child with longing eyes and outstretched hand the flower it craves; it will not be many minutes before our stock in band will be quite exhausted. A GREAT BARONESS, Though Very ©Old Lady Burdett-Coutts In an Active Noctal Figure. The Baroness Burdett-Coutfs, though now in her 824 year, appears to take as much interest in life as she ever did. She con- tinues to give dinners and evening reccptions at Piccadilly and garden parties at Holly Lodge. She is particularly attentive to art- Ists and strangers. While stopping for a short time in Lon- don Lady Burdett-Coutts invited me to one of her afternoons at Plecadilly. The house, though one of the largest in London, is very unattractive both outside and in. After pass- ing through the hands of several servants with powdered wigs, I was announced at the door of the large drawing room where Lady Coutts was pouring tea. She rose, came for- ard, and greeted me very cordlally, saying, “It 18 very good of you to come Being exceedingly thin und also slightly tremulous, she appeared quite her age, but there was an interest in her guests and in things generally that showed she still found life and people attractive. Though there were several good looking women in the room my hostess was easily the center of attraction. There was nothing of the confi- dent self-assertion of the English dowager about her, but rather the gentle unobtrusive- | ness of the old maid. | Most of her callers were elderly men. 1 | fancied as I watched her surrounded by | several of these gray-beards that one or two ranked among the numerous suitors who had 0 persistently sought ber hand for many | years. Her husband was not there. There was a marked tone of tenderness in her voice as she excused him, by saying, ‘Mr. Burdett-Coutts has gone hunting,” which showed how fond she was of him. Lady Burdett-Coutls respeets the fact that her husband is onlyghalf her age, and she treats him more like a petted son than a husband. He always accompanies her to parties and dinners and -is very attentive. At othér times she refuses to burden him with the care of an old woman and allow: him perfect liberty with his young compan- fons At the time of thelr marriage she settled on him an annuity of $250,000, and fitted up the large bouse adjolning hers for the en- tertainment of his friends. Although when he changed his ‘hame it was officlally given as Burdett-Coutts-Bartlett, both he and she began at once to leave off the Bartlett. I suppose because they knew three names would prove impracticable and they wished to be called by the same name, or rather he did; he knew that he must be known the surface) on the 15th of May, ehould ap- | as Lady Burdett-Coutts' busband, and proba- Lady Burdett-c| much _criticised she differs little ts' dress ‘In often very Americans, but in that rom English women gen- erally. At the fea she wore a black silk gown and a face ¢ap; the next week at_an eveni costumed in red _velvet, w, and above her brow was a diamondfRiara which had belonged to Marfe Antoindife. 1 Heard her dress that evening estimat low neck was at £1,000. Of course the t unbecoming, but then all_the old ladiesipresent were in the same kind of costume. Lady Burdett-Chutts owns the Lyceum theater. She is very fond of Irving's acting and s to be seen evening after evening in her large box at the right of the stage sur- rounded by friends. The box fs luxuriously furnished, and between the acts ices and other refreshinents are served. It Is probable that no other woman living has received so many offers of marriage. From the time when, at the age of 20, she came to London, the inheritor of her grand- father's large estate, until her marriage, the baroness was besieged by suitors of all ages and_ranks, from the Duke d'Aumale down to numerous cranks; several times she has been obliged to appeal to the protection of the police on account of the latter. A very common question before her marriage among men of a sultable position was, “Have you proposed to the baroness?” A young Amerl- can attache at the legation was asked this question during his first season in London by a titled bachelor. The answer being In the negative, the bachelor replied, “I est:em it every man's duty—I dld.” What Lady Burdett-Coutts will do with her property is a matter of much interest and also anxiety to some. The fortune feft her, estimated at £1,900,000, is not larger than many estates both here and in England that are not considered at all by the public, be- cause they know that apart, perhaps, from a few small bequests, the bulk of the money will certainly descend to the nearest helrs It was her superlative philanthropy that in- duced the queen to offer her a peerage In 1871, and she is the only woman that has ever been made a peer on account of her own merits, b Thousands of the poor of London have been made happy and comfortable by Lady Bur- dett-Coutts’ charlty. It would take too much space to mention half Bf her ac®s of benevolence. Among them is the home for women in Browne's Lane, Spitalfields, which is always ready to receive and provide for poor women, while nurses are sent out from there daily with delicacies and wines for the sick. The families living in Columbla Square owe their neat little homes to her bounty No person has ever done so much for the Church of England. She entirely supports the three bishoprics of Adelalde, Capetown and British Columbia, and has built and en- dowed several - churches, among them the Church of St, Stephen the Martyr, West- minster, with its three schools and pars age. Besides her emdowed charities she has always been ready at any cry of need.at home or in distant countries. Tt was while acting as her almoer to the Turks that Mr. Bartlett contracted the illness through which she nursed him, and which is said to have led to their marriage. Notwithstanding &1l Lady Coutt it is not likely that her fortune is any less now than it was when she received it from her step-grandmothpr—the duchess of St. Al- bang As sole propristor of the old banking house of Thomas Coufts her money has yielded a very Jarge percentage. If she had not used it se~generously it would probably have doubled byghis time. This grimy old building on the @trand has bzen one of the conspicuous featfffes of the city since the beginning of the century; the Georges kept thelr accounts there. There is no doubt felt as to her present charities being perpetuated, for they are gen- erally endowed. But will Lady Burdett Coutts establish_other charities? Wil she do, as she wwesteac by, feave her fortune to a direct heir of Thomas Coutts? or wil) it fall to her j’m‘ 1 husband? Most people are prejudic agdinst the latter. GABDEN VEGE charities rA When They “I!olijxl Be Gathered and How They Should Tlo Caoked. Next to the frats we eat no other part of our food is mere-healthful than the succulent ceen voget of. ghe. garden, e cannot e a1 A Ttk Tguna and the next best thing.is to insure as regular a supply of. fresh vegetables as we can com- mand ) With modern’ facilities of transportation our supply of fresh green vegetables through- out the entire wear Is now assured. Even for people of very limited means a supply may now be had from March to December. Tn a proper supply of the commercial vege- tables we may find relief from many of the disorders which Impose suffering and misery, whose intensity no drug wiil permanently relieve and no nostrum guarantee complete exemption from. The numerous kitchen garden plants enable the trugal housewife to serve as many tempt- ing dishes as her rivals in Frauce and sunny Spain. All the kitcken garden dainties known to the well supplied eity markets of the Atlantic seeboard are capable of greater variety of treatment than they ordinarily recefve in the average household. 1f no greater diversity of cooking should be practiced on asparagus, caulifiower, spinach, peas and brussel's sprouts, more simple sauces might be made with cream, egg and salad ofl than is now made with butter and flour. It is about time that crude flour in any form should cease to be used for these purposes. In the selection of garden vegetables growers of their own. stock are always to take such peas only as are ready. all the market peas ‘one finds are mixed as to age and size ‘80 hopelessly that they are not at all enjoyable. Peas meed to be gathered as they ripen,: and not in the mechanical roatine in which they are usually taken from the fleld for the purpose of clearing land by the acre in_a strictly consecutive order, Here lles all_the difference between the European -and the American grower. Another fmportant feature of the kitchen work is the predomipant practice of having the water in whicly the green stuff is to.be tooked at a lower temperature than bolling and not softening the water with a little soda to preserve color. One reason why brussels sprouts and broceoli do mot receive more attention is be- cause so few people Know how to gather and market them ptomptly, and to cook them in water properly’ prepared. These things need water at bolling point and softened with soda. Peas, ‘beans, carrot and tender- leated cabbagq require just as careful treat- ment as the other articles. Whatever of tenderness and -enjoyment there is in fine vegetables must depend mainly on the cook- ing. It is the touch of skill which makes and its absence destroys all possibility of en- Jjoyment. TORNING THE HONEST 1 ENNY. Dalnty Work for Summer Vae ns that May Bring i & Tldy Little Income. When you “dre ‘packing your trunk for a summer's outifg Hut in a lot of tinted bristol board and blotiing eheets, use them as I shall direct, as the good falry in the story is in the habit of saying, and you will never regret it IO 4 Perfectly mounted sveaweed or carefully pressed wild ‘fowers according as you go to seaside or mydantain) make the most ex- quisite birthddy, Easter, Christmas or New Year's cards “8r' bboklets, besides furnishing quaint menuy“or'guest cards for luncheons and dinners. 104 The use of ¥ié7ithographed card or book- lec as a remfftiér of a festive season has fallen somewM® ' into desnetude of late amoug people’df Ahe finest taste, but these dainty trifies’ wikle by your own hands, thus acquirin® 4 spectal and personal value and interest, make a pleasing revival of the fancy. * So much fof *the soelal side of a matter whieh is capable of a ‘more commereial and practical -handling. These articles, when well made, it ems, sell well, It & tinted board be taken, marine dashed in with -water colors, the seaweed neatly mounted © where it will heighten the effect of the picture, and an appropriate quotation lettered in with gold or carmine, a handsome card Is made with comparatively little work, and one which will command # good price. Endless variations may be worked on this theme. ‘A group of scallop shells may be washed in with. sepia in the upper corner of a menu card, a seaweed mounted so as to seem 1o trall over It and down the side. A set of theso cards could be made for a luncheon table, using & different tint and a dtfferent weed Sor each one. Wild flowers pressed so as to retain their color (between sheels of clean blotting paper frequently changed) and grouped with tiny, fern fronds, grasses and bits of a delicate moss, will work up even more effectively than seaweed. Both make salable souvenir booklets when they can be gathered at some famous local- ity. I know of one lady who lives within easy reach of several historle spots who malkes a neat income by the construction of these dainty souvenirs. She uses celluloid for covers for her book- lets, has found just the best paper or card to use, thought up pleasing and appropriate auotatfons for each locality, and systematized her work till every detail of it ls perfect. In the spring the butcher and baker and candlestick maker, and all peregrinating venders who ply between the localities of which she makes souvenirs are subsidized and got to bring her flowers, those from each place being kept separate. Then en- every Christmas for three years bas found her running low of materials—so rapidly does the demand for her pretty work grow—and the end of every season finds her sold out, with orders ahead that she cannot fill tili flower time again, Thousands of the marine trifies could be | s0ld in the shops at our eastern seaside re- | sorts and every battlefield might have its souvenir of wild flowers. The work re- quires professional nicety and exactness, as well as taste, but many women, If they would bring to bear upon it the time and energy they do upon general fancy work, could succeed and make money out of it. Fushion Notes. Opals cut round like pearls are the present craze among gems. Wreaths of small flowers are worn around the hair at the back with evening dress. Among the newest materials are embroid- ered crepons, with tiny dots in Dresden calorings. Lightwelght black cheviots are very popu- lar fabrics for stylish traveling and shopping costumes. Light tan is ‘he favorite shade in crepon, but it harmonizes beautifully with shades of green, mauve, or yellow. Ltnen lawn and lace in combination are made Into the most natty cuffs and collars, for both morning and afternoon wear. Colored cambric handkerchiefs in_ pale shades of mauve, green, and yellow, with triple hems of white finely hemstitched, are a new fancy. A substitute for haircloth comes in a new materlal called gazeline. It is a kind of open canvas which holds its stiffness, and can be used next to thin fabrics White alpaca, both plain and figured, is one of the fashionable materials for garden party games, and the waists are made of white satin trimmed with lace, or of fancy glace silks. A very pretty tuck is given to the new striped_silk blouses by making the collar and cuffs of batiste to match the color in the stripe and trimming the edge with narrow cream lace, Striped and plain colored mobairs are made into very stylish gowns trimmed elaborately with cream lace and satin or chene ribbons, but taffeta silks are taking the lead just at present for dressy afterncon gowns. White cloth is used to pipe the overlapped seams in the skirts of cloth dresses, and white kid embroldered in Persian colors is a novelty for vests of such gowns, which are usually made with a short godeted coat. Colored linen and duck gowns, made in the coat and skirt style, are to be as much worn as they were last year, and more fancy dresses of linen are trimmed with white or colored embroidery to match the gown. Replacing the light feather boas of spring are very full neck-ruches of pleated lisse or silk muslin which hax a slight dressing These ruches are plain, or_Interspersed with fine flowers and follage. Milliners are mak- ing these ruffs to match the hat or bonnet A new material, which ranks a grade higher than linen or duck, Is woven of flax and silk. The woof is of white silk and the warp of colored flax, giving it a pretty sheen. It Is used for dressy summer gowns, Is very moft, and warranted not to crease. Buftercup yellow and white Is a charming combination. Straight bands of ribbon on each side of the dress skirt appear upon some of the pretty youthful gowns made of silk, sheer wool, and many of the new charming lawns and linens. Some of the latest of the fine India linen costumes are silk-lined throughout and trimmed - with ribbon bands or expensive Irish guipure laces. Black and white stripes are as much worn as they were last year, and the new gowns are prettler than ever with odd waists of color and wide collars of creamy lace. A bodice of ereamy lace fulled over white satin and trimmed with bands of gold for neek, belt, and bretelle straps is especially effec- tive, with a black and white striped. silk skirt and sleeves. Feminine Notes. Ten women have been appointed on the list of census enumerators in Boston. Miss Clio Hinton Huneker, who will re ceive $10,006 for her statue of Fremont for California, Is only 24 years old. She is a pupil of St. Gaudens. The late duchess of Montrose left & neck- lace of pearls to be sold for the benefit of the poor of London's East End. The necklace brought $57,500. Petaluma, Cal., has a woman sign-painter, whose work s said to compare with the best When painting at a helght Mrs. Cronk dons a camping costume, which glves her a de- cidedly picturesque appearance. Miss Marie Corelll is described as having a slight, girlish figure and as wearing “fuffy golden hair” Miss Corelli avolds the journalist and flees from the wiles of the interviewer. She believes in the unseen and knows more mbout the next warld than she can be induced to tell, The proportion of women to men in the United fvates is greatest in New England, where the women are in excess. It is least In the far west, where the number of men ex- ceeds that of the women. Wyoming bas_the smallest female population, 21,362; New York the largest, 3,020,960, The pecullarity of a marriage In Poca- tello, Idaho, was that the bride wore pants and rode her horse a-straddle. The daring man who chose this wearer of the breeches for his. spouse was William Wagstaff of American Falls, and the bride in breeches was Miss Anna Wilhelmina Jones. Miss Monbresor's novel “Into the High- ways and Hedges,” published by the Messrs Appleton, has attracted as much attention in this country as in England, and although published but a few weeks, it has gone into a fifth cdition. It is a clean story and de- pends upon nothing but its own merit for success. An amusing story is told concerning Miss Willlams' “Evolution of Ethics.” This book published in London and also in America, The publishers themselves sup- places in life. sues a great pressing and working up, but | A Helping Hand. Quaker Oats has helped millions across perilous It will help you. posed the writer to bo a man, and one critic wrote the author a letter of unqualified pratse and begged leave to present a work of his own, an argument in proof of the In- feriority of women's brains Mrs. Flora A. Steel, the author of the charming “Tales of the Punjaub,” which have attaracted such favorable comment, has acquired, during her twenty years' residence in India, five of the native Indian dialects She 1s sald to be a bright, cheerful, ruddy complexioned lttle woman, over 50 years old, with a fine head of gray halr and a merry twinkle in her eyes Mrs. Margaret Deland, author of ‘“‘John Ward, Preacher,” is the owner of one of the largest mastiffs in Boston, who accom- panies his mistress in all her walks. Mrs Deland’s home is a cozy house in one of | the oldest and most pleasant streets in the eity, where a glimpse of the blue waters of the Charles river may be obtained from a bay window over the front door. She de- votes the entire morning to writing. Sarah Grand, the author of “The Heavenly Twins,” and her publisher, Mr. Willlam Helnemann, have been “duing” Paris to- gether, according to an English paper, in search’ of material for another book. Mme. Grand thought the Moulin Rouge deadly dull, but found the Chat Nolr more interest- ing.” Her opinfon of the Eden theater, the Bal Boullier and the Jardin de Paris is still to bo learned. W ¢ BEFORE, ow York World. When troubles come to torture you In this dark world of woe, And disappointments grimly rise Whichever way you o Don't be cast down or f; Or chafe at trials sore You're not the firat to suffer, for We've all been there before, When 1o some fair young maid you make The offer of your hand, And tell her that unbounded love Is more than h land, Don't think that earth has grown so dark "Twill never brighten more- Remember when she laughs w all been there befor: nt of heart, t you If at the races you “put up’ The last ten you posse And find you have to foot it home Without a cent to bless, Don’t curse your luck as'something strange, Or seek the jockey's gore You're no worse off than other men Who've all been there before. little flat If in some cozy A fair girl lives alone, Who, thro' some subtle reasoning, You think s all your own, Don't e it hard iIf some cold day You find your dream A It's hard, but “there are We've all been there be In fact, when luck has “cut you dead,” When Fate Is hard and stern, And for the unattainable You yearn and yearn and yearn, Be sure you have our sympithy Just that and nothing more For we've been there before, dear boy, e b Pete was a very black tramp cat, and no- body but Ethelwyn loved him, because he mewed continually, and in scub a mournful, half-starved fashion, that he did no credit whatever to his good care aft:r he came to grandma’s house. “I dou't like animals around that look and act as it they were half starved,” said grandma, who was not given to starving any one or anything, as Pete well knew. But he kept on yowling so dolefully that Ethelwyn, who was visiting grandma, when she saw the old lady begin to fidget and look under the table, would jump down and take Pcte out to the summer kitchen and shut him in. Although she kept his saucer full of milk there to comfort him, they could still hear him faintly crying. “He ain't & mile of good,” faid Hannah, the kitchen girl. “I don't believe he's stopped yowling long enough to ketch a mouse.” “Oh, I most saw him,” said Ethelwyn. “He ran and jumped at something, I didn't stay to ses what, ‘cause I ran too.” “No, he dsn't good for much, T dare say said grandma, “but Bthelwyn loves him, & 1 suppose we'll have to stand him.” Ethelwyn felt very happy when she heard this, for she had been afraid Pete's bad habit would get him mto trouble. I'll take him upstairs tonight with us,” sald grandma, “for I'm sure 1 heard a mouse gnawing in the closet last night, and we'll see |t Pete can do anything besides cry.” “Oh, I'm sure he'll catch it,” said Ethel- wyn, and she talked to him about it that afternoon, and was quite sure he understood by the way he looked Pete seemed to like grandma’s room with its bright open fire and brass fender, and he jurred contentedly when Ethelwyn laid him Sently down on the fluffy rug in front of (he fire-place, then she jumped fnto her own little bed beside grandma's big one, and they both went off sound asleep. In the middle of the night though, Pete opened his eyes, there was a faint scratch- ing in the closet, that interested him so that he never thought of mewing, but stole quietly up and when a little gray mouse peeped out, Pete's black paw shot out suddenly and knocked it senseless. He had a great frollc then, knocking it around like a gray ball, but ‘by and by something popped in the grate, and out came a live coal over the fender, and on to the flufty rug, and then it smoked and smoked. Pete knew some- thing was wrong, #o opened his mouth and mewed his loudest; grandma dld not seem to notice him at all, but Ethelwyn sat straight up In bed and said: “Oh, Pete, dear, please don't cry, you'll 'sturb grandma and-—oh, grandma, wake up quick! the rug's burning!" Grandma jumped up in a hurry them, and drenched the rug from the toflet pitcher until the smoking was stopped. “I do declare,” she sald afterward, “I heard the cat crying, but I didn’t think it was anything wneommon, so I didn’t try to wake up. It's a mercy you did. Ethelwyn." “'Oh, grandma,” said Ethelwyn, hugging Pete hard. “Isn’t” he the dearest, smartest —and grandma you can’'t say he isn't good for an earthly thing now—O! O! O!" she cried, as her bare feet struck Pete's mouse. “‘He's good for two earthly things, grandma, darling, because he's caughted your mouse.' “That's a fact,”” sald grandma, laughing. ‘m much obliged to Pete all around, and he shall have cream tomorrow for his break fast, for if it hadn't waked you we might have been burned up.' ‘Oh, I do love him,"” said Ethelwyn. - The big John Fitzgerald farm, near Diller, embracing 1,000 cultivated acres, has been divided into 100-acre tracts and new houses erected on each tract for the use of tenents. Delicious, too ! EXACT SIZE For sale by all First Class Dealers. THE MERCANTILE IS THE FAVORITE TEN CENT CIGAR F. R. RICE MERCANTILE CICAR CO, PERFECT) Magufactured by the Factory No. 304, St. Louls, Ma THE DOCTOR'S COLUMN . A. R. M.—Take five drops of Testine three times daily, Use cold bathing upon golng to bed, and sleep with your window open and not too much covering. Avold spirits, stim- ulants and tobaceo F. W.—As a remedy for the thin blood you mention, take Cocanized Beef, Wine and fron (Columbia Chemical Co) in _table= spoonful doses threa times dally. Procure a bottle of Vvarine and take five drops on the tongue morning and evening R.T. C.—1 suffer very much from nervousness and am very restiess. 1 would Le grateful i€ you would gRent & remedy. Take five drops on the tongue three times a day of the animal extract Cerebrine which is well suited to your case. B U, Nl am suffering with trouble in my Kidneys, feel Janguld and out of sorts. Please SugRest o wafe remedy Procure a bottle of Restorative Wine of Coca (Columbia Chemical Co.) and take a | tablespoonful three times a day M. Lo—1 am very full bloodsd and am afraid of apoplexy; please tell me what would be the best treatment ? Preoure a bottle of Thyroidine, five drups on the tongue ing. and taka morning and even- N. A ' AL b 5 Dot seem to n glad of advice as to { T taks cold avary ¢ I am unw wwpetite, my food i should be very satinent Usa the animal extract Ovarine in five drop doses ou the tongue, three times a day. P G-1 have chionis bror in strangin skt suffercd for Bitls, and am very Bhould be very ghad i€ ¥ Aproptiate remedtos Cocanized Beef, Wine and Tron (Colum- bla Chemical Co) would be an admirable remedy long time from mich reduced would Kest a temouy ine from painfol mene Ve, Can you sug N.-T am s nd Toas ot i Ves; try Ovarine (Hammond), and take five drops ‘on the tongue three tmes daily. J. B 81 have ncurlgle piins dn the side, AN uva boan gun down for some time, What Can 1§ tike for reliet? Give Febricide pills a trial. Take cne pill three times a day. W. T. PARKER, M. D, P. All letters of inquiry on medical subjects dirocted to the Columbla Chemical Company, Washington, D. C., will be an- swered free, either in these columns or by mail direct, " THE ANIMAL EXTRACTS Prepared according to the formula of DR, WM. A. HAMMOND, The most wonderful therapeutic discovery sinc ¢ the days of Jenner, CEREBRINE. -« From the Braim or diseases of the brain and nervous system MEDULLINE, = Fromthe Spinal Cord. For epilepsy, Locomotor Ataxia, ete. CARDINE, - - From the Heart. For discases of the heart. TESTINE, For premature decay. OVARINE, For dise of Women. THYROIDINE, for Eczema und impuritics of the blood. Dose, 3 Drops. ALL DRU Price. Two Drachms, $1.00 TS, Send for Book, FEBRICIDE PILLS Malarial Affectiohs and all inflamma- y diseases of which fever {8 an accome paniment. Of inestimable value in neural- #ia; for sick headache a specifie. Price, per box of 20 pills, 50c; 100 pills, $2 NATROLITHIC SALTS For habitual constipation, torpor of the bowels or inaction of the'liver, headache, gastric ~ dyspepsia, intestinal ' dyspepsia, want of appetite, languor and debility. As 4 mild, effective’ purgative 1t has no equak Price, e per bottle, COLUNMBIA CHEMICAL COMPAN Washington, D. €, or sale by KUHN & CO., 15th and Douglas, YALE’S Hair Tonic. Only discovery ever made for restoring the natural colcr to Gray or Faded Halr. 1t sells on its merits and needs very little advertising. Yale's Halr Tonic builds uj the hair's own coloring and brings it bac into circulation. [t maiters not whether (he hair has been blonde, brown or black, it will restore its own true color. It not a dve, but a Tonic, and the work is permanent. FALLING HAIR. Yale's Halr Tonic stops halr falling in from 24 hours to one week. Its action is truly marvelous. BALD HEADS. Yale's Tonic makes hair grow heads in every instance where are not dead. Daundruff aud Scalp Diseases, Yale's Halr Tonic will cure Dandruff and on bald the roots Scalp D s speedily and permanently It s soothing, softening and nourishing-—a [ food for the hair. ABSOLUTELY Guaranteed by Mme, M. Yale to do all that s claimed for it sell 1t for $1.00, 6 for $5.00. Shun those whe offer a substitute. Insist on Yale's, s Complexion Cream— whitening and beautifying the and soothing. A curs for arse pores, Price, $100 pe ty Soap, 25¢. Freck earth for freckles, 31 per s Guide to Beauty Sent free to all who mail their address MME.M.YALE, 146 State-st., Chicaga All droggists skin— Tough sar. bottle. SQUTH AND NORTH AMERICAN LLOYDS AND NEW YORK AND CHICAGO LLOYDS IRE AND MARINE INSURANCE Messrs. E. Littlefield & Agenta of Monadnock. are ne Tonger agents for Ulipaid prem o the Home office, where any n tion “respecting policies will ‘be’ furnished, and sl busthess (runsacted Until further not N. Y. May 9th, 189, WHIPPLE & CO., Avworneys, SOUTH AND NORTN AMERICAN AND NEW YORK AND CHICAGO LLOYDS, ROME OFFICE. % Liberty St, New York " DR. CATON'S TANSY PILLS ! The most reliable remedy for ladies. Always safe, eflectual, #nd theonly guaranieed WOMAN'S bymailsealed §l. CatonMpec. DR. C. GEE WO. WHO 18 HE! skiliful of Ching tors, because of China he understands the Immediate action of over 6,000 remedies. With fours teen yoars of practice aud over four years of (hat i . p