Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, January 20, 1895, Page 10

THE OMAHA DAILY g~ - Woman’s Domain. FRENCH FASHIONS, Rage tor Dioases—Dress of Young Rosstan ench Legislation on Stays. PARIS, Jan. 19.—(Special)—When a deputy In the French chamber, the other day, pro- posed the tax on corsets as being a market staple, ho only put in prominence the fact that thero was never a moment perhaps in the history of French dress when the fash- fonabls woman could o easily dispense with the corset as no Blouses are the only ‘wear of the fashionable woman, and a corset underneth is a matter of habit and not at all of necessity. It could be abandoned &nd leave tho effect of the walst unchanged. The proposition was stupld. French politicians #eem not to keep up with the dress move. ment any more. It was not thus short-sight- edly that Richelieu ruled in trade interesls, when he decreed that the Fronch should rot wear lace but might wear ribbons. If the chamber wants the women's ald 10 augm:nt the exchequer, it will have to try again, Today all the varlety In dress is cxpended on the blouse, and 1 ingenuity is absorbed In making of it a new creation for every new gOWN. The skirt can be left prot'ty much to itself, sinco fts form has becomo fixed for some time to come, and it is mostly left in nocent of trimming; but mong all blouscs, thers is In common only the k YOUNR GIRL'S TOIL band and belt, which are Invariably oi velvet, shirred and fastened behlnl with the gath- ered flanges that have so much pleased for more than a year. It is casy to vary this effect, because, as the material s not stretched over the figure, it takes decoration like any oriental dress that falls loose; what- ever is done to it is in the way of enriching the fabric. It is made both high and decollete, for it s worn at broakfast, dinnes and ball, and it I8 made of cvery material and of saveral ma- terials mingled. It is like the skirt or It is unlike the skirt. The front may be differ:nt from the back; the front and the back may " be cpen down the middle over lace or velvet o fur, or the front may be so open only and over a chemiselte of moussel™e Jdo goia or meslin needlework, It mav be plaited in all manners of plaitng, up and down or ncross; It may be gathered or slashed or draped; 1t may be anything, If only it is blousey. For the street, a fur trimmed velvet blouse is the latest. chic, which must have a wadded bodice » underneath; an all-fur blouse is the highest Qight, but to this few attain. BLOUSES FOR ALL OCCASIONS. A street toilet has a blouse of dark blue velvet above a plain skirt of blue serge. The velvet s all in side plaits, turning to- ward the center, and falls over the belt be- hind as well as in front, with the square effect that is a part of the style. Sable epaulettes are over the shoulders, and the tippet and muff are sable. The whole is shadowed with an enormous black hat, trimmed with plumes. For a 4 o'clock visit is a blouse of fawn velvet, with the front stamped out a jour over cream sllk and embroidered with . Irldescent beads, and a skirt of silk of the “+de sole, same color, shot and broched with green, Toque of fawn velvet and green. For an unceremonious dinner Is a blouse ot Dahlia colored silk, striped at wide intervals with black lines, ‘gathered onto a yoke of black velvet, with a black velvet beit. The sloeves are a large puft, reaching over the bow, with a bracelet of black velvet, and re made full by being gathered up along the inside seam. This blouse has the effect of three enormous puffs, all of a size. For an elaborate dinner is a toilet of deep old rose . velvet, the blouse front, skirt front and sleeves brocaded with white. The neck is slightly low and square, and is bordered © with sable; the sleeves are long and gigot. Over the shoulders epaulette pleces fall down, back and front, of plain velvet, bordered with sable, and the skirt is bordered with sable. Another toilet is of Nile green velvet, green crepe and white lace. The blouse Is a squaro decollete, low In front and half low behind; the front of lace over crepe, and the back cf velyet, with a’ plaited butterfly bow “at the top of velvet, lined with rose, that fulls over each shouider, giving a yoke effect to the front. The sleeves are velvet and crepe, and the skirt has the back of velvet and tho front and sides of crepe, caught Wwith velvet hows lined with rose, the crepe * gathered at the walst and falling full and “loose. Belt of rose velvet. THRE THEATER BLOUSE. For the theater a blouse of red mousseline all accordeon plaited, the front covered with black lace and sewed in the front of cach armhole a black lace tab, that falls out over the slceves and gives a wide effect to the front. Another, of pale green mousseline de sole and black velvet; the back Is of the velvet, the front to the width THEATRE DBLOUSES. OF two Inehos before each armhole Is of the valvet also, and the remainder is of the mouesoline, plaited und failing very bouffant. Asross the bust a broad band of velvet, ornu- mertolly cut, is fastened with ribbon rosettes 10 the velvet on each side. The sleeve Is a yelvet puff, slashed down the widdle ovor the plaited wousseline, Neck band of black All the | mock di velvet, velvet monds. with rosette on each side. in front fs studded with DR OF RUSSIAN GIRLS. The young Russian girls in Pari some instructive fdeas in winter dress. furs they wear with 1 uch taste and sim- plieity, making them produce an effect of luxurious warmth, where the rest of us, as | though embarrassed with their disposition, cut them up into fantastic trimmings; als they have a decided preference for plain, | heavy wools, notably serge, as against th fancy wools liked by French women, and | these they make in plain substantial form, somewhat English women do, only not | with the same tailor cut The form is likely to be a jacket of one- third length shorter, donble-breasted, with ample facings of fur, and a skirt cut fash- lonably and stitched for all trimmings, and a blouse which may be of velvet. It is in a dress made like this that French women also this winter dress their unmarriod daughters. The effect Is practical, unpretentious and ele- gant, and is accomplished with little ap- parent outlay. is the common wear of the most aristocratic women in the colony, as well as of the humbler ones, as well as of the 200 young Russian women here at work in the medical schools, to whom it is almost a second cuticle; thus the princess of Georgia and her daughters at the Sunday service of the Russian church are almost always In serge, black or dark blue. The following models will be found useful for the wardrobes of young girls. IMMENSELY CHIC, A brown and white mixed serge is made with a jacket like that described, buttoned warmly down with big horn buttons, with facings of otter fur. The skirt is finished With rows of stitching, and the blouse s of velvet of the same col A gray reception tofletto has the jacket of velvet and the skirt of serge, with a small, velvet puft set In the edge and rows of stitching above. The stitching runs up all the seams, making of each breadth a sort of panel. Blouse of vetvet, and over the whole a collar and muff of silver fox. A dress of navy blue serge and velvet trimmed with black astrakan is a little more elaborate. The skirt has two narrow rows of astrakan bordering a three- inch band of velvet; the blouse has a binding of astrakan at the top of the neckband and at the wrists, which run out in long points on the hand; the jacket has the back cut loose and confined to the walst in gathers by a strap that passes over the back and underncath tho front. It has an astrakan collar that turns up round the neck and a broad, seven-inch facing of astrakan down the front. — Another of the same materlals has the plain skirt turned over down the back seam to form a panel faced with velvet. The blouse fs of serge with yoke and belt of velvet, and the jacket is all of astrakan, A skirt of black serge with a blouse of black and white check velvet. Over it is worn a half-length cape of the serge cut in full godets, with lining and large collar of chin- chilla, Tho hats most worn by young girls with thesa costumes are of felt with large rosettes of velvet mingled with smaller rosettes of color and wings. ADA CONE. SALT IN CHILDREN'S FOOD, furnish | Their | Serge A Suggestion for Mothers Who Are Inter- ested In Baby's Diet. Little is known of the part which salt takes in nutrition. It is the only condiment nceded by children; seeeming to stimulate a delicate appetite, and It certainly facilitates digestion by rendering foods and causing di- gestive juices to flow freely. It is in all foods but not in sufficient quan- tity, therefore it must be added, especially to food containing potash, potatoes, ete. A child whose diet contains a larger amount of potato than is advisable, will crave unusual quantities of salt, possibly much to the as- tonishment of its guardians. By limiting this article of food and supplying vegetables or fruits containing the salts required, this craving will disappear. Cows' milk contains. more potash than mothers' milk, which explains why its use with salt Is advised by food specialists. When milk s poor in salts, the butter is imper- fectly digested, which s another frequent source of children’s ailments. A farmer’s wife will know this and give young chickens the mineral salts they need in the form of oyster and egg shells, or lime, but she may not notice that under a faulty dfet regime, deprived of these self-same salts, her child is developing rickets; one of the most preventable yet one.of the most com- mon diseases 0f childhood, amongst rich and poor. Prof. Uffelman says in ‘‘Hyglene of the Child": “Deflelency of inorganic salts in the food of growing children, easily overloaded by their guardians, is a frightful source of nutritive disorder. Deflclency of lime espec- fally tends to result in rickets.” Salts are especially important In the forma- tion of teeth and of bone. An immense amount of bone is formed during childhood. It is not until the end of the twelfth year that the cartiluge entering into the formation of bone has been converted into true bone tissue, which fact will show the pre-eminent importance of supplying foods containing the required salts druing not only the nursery period but also during the following years of childhood. A child’s diet cannot be watched too closely in this respect, and the serlous results that always follow neglect of such precaution, e. £, the development of rickets, scurvy, eczema, in short, indigestion in its varlous forms and degrees, must show that the need {s Impera- tive for close study of domestic sclence, as applied to this and other questions‘of similar mport. Habits of eating the foods requirsd are casily established in the nursery by using tact and care. The practical application of the uses of foods contalning salts is to give children milk and milk only (which contains dll the ingredlents necessary for ncrmal growth) for the first year, uniess advised to the contrary by a reputabls physician. 'This 15 a law in France. Cereals and well made bread should then be added gradually. Supplying farinaceous foods Lo excess, with- out the corrective salts, is a frequent occur- rence, and one of the first stumbling blocks when changing to a mixed dict. Milk.#hould still be the chief article of food at this time, eince fruit and vegetables may not yet be added to the dietary. When cggs, maca- roni, meat and vegetables are allowable, milk should be used in less quantity, Baked po- tatoe, seasoned with salt, and rice or maca- roni, well boiled in salted water, may be given after two years, supplementing the fat required with sweet cream or milk. After two years give fruit jule: fruits, as pears, prumes and apples; epples; the pulp of a ripe orange—all taining the desired salts-—and grapes without the seeds, which fruit is especially valuable being composed chiefly of salts and water in solution and glucose which 15 readily ab- sorbed, until the time arrives for the addi- tion of easlly digested vegetables-—-3 years {of uge——even then watching closely for ‘indi- of assimilation or vegetable Is tried s children Inherit tenden: which wmake it advisable to defer the usa cf corta’n vege- tables until later years. The following veg:- tables, all i their beat condition, may be tried In the order given, ing fo xea- son: After three yeare, as statzd before, spinach (a¥ a puree), stewed celery, gus tips, cuullfiower tops, stewed Bermuda or Spanish onlens, very young equash (as a puree), tender string beeans and young peas and seraped green corn (with no hul). Many motbers will say: “Put I don't need any dietetc tules for my baby of 18 months or # years. He eats every teytly weil.” L. Emuct Holt ia “Haby experience everyhiug follewed a as the ultin and fncon lon, as many M. D., of New Yok says 00" that be has had quite a large with those children who “ato apd secmed to relish it, and has number of them to their graves ate result of such uureasonable siderate practices. Populur Ferfa Vilet in its various distillations 15 agaln the' favarite fragrauce of tho clegante. In fact, violct Is the fasbion for alb accessories 13 the totlet. This cxpeasive luxury is $4. aer ounce prepared exactly by the very same principle a8 the ottar of roses, and 80 great “bas been the experience that at last it has reached the highest state of perfection. & The sccicly woman f today carries aspara- | tng and s per- | through her entire tollet accessories the one perfume. or instance, of the violet cologne an extract is prepared—then the violet water, soap, tooth wash, powder for the face and bath are all of ona scheme. Even the sachets which scent her dainty garments are of this one delicate fragrance, while in het drawing rooms the chairs and gofas are lined with violet sachets, whose de- liclous odors float through her charming alon. Of the three new extracts the Peau d'Bspagne, sweet orchid and concentrated borls may be classel the prize perfumes of the day. Then follow the Persian boquet, orange flower and that exquisite toflet accessory made for the Infanta which for a short time was the reigning fas As eachets are really perfumes In thelr way, the Persian mixture Is a wonderful concoction. This skin or leather is by process soaked =0 as to. obtain the full v of the perfume selected. So when sewed in the corsage of a dress will retain the scent for at ¢ two years. A small plece three inches square can purchased for §1 be Perfumes there which come in are in _powder shape tiny vials of homoeopathic doses, a delicate pink in color and at the high price of $2. The great artists In dres Worth and Fellx, use them always for their splendid gowns and wraps. The sachet of today Is a loose affair made of India_ silk without embroidery. — These sweet snted articles have a generous place for the per- fuming of lingerie. But for the new sachets are made of brotdered in Heraldic designs, which datc from Henry IL to Louls XIL, XIIL, XIV., XV. and s0 on to the empire wreath, with all its poleonic glory. And for delicate laces and handkerchiefs they are unrivalled. So that the perfumes for these idols of fashion are no longer of a delicate nature. They are heavy, oriental, having almost A somnolent effect. For a fine make-up the milk of cucum- bers is a wonderful skin preservative. For hands nothing is better than almond meal, and for the cyes there is the black stick known as the Egyptian megyp, This won- derful eye enchanter was found inside of an Egyptian mummy by two Italian professors, who turned it to account, LITTLE DUTCH BONNET. departure this season plush or satin, em- The American Woman Learns to Love Its Very Eccentricitics. When the American summer tourist saw in London shop windows bits of headgear with the czarina loops at the side, she exclaimed: “Thank goodness, thoss atrocities will not oross tho Atlantic.” She was even more emphatic in her grati- tude later on when she observed the smart women at Cowes wear these bonnats at the very back of their heads, uncovering the long parting in front, and supported by a “bath bun” at the nape of the neck. With the consistent inconsistency attributed to women, the gentler sex are now turning their thanksgiving in the opposite direction— they are praising the fact that the Dutch bonnet has arrived. For, like the people whese name it bears, it crossed the ocean and captured Manhattan- ville. It has al:o brought the czarina loops and the English bow over with it. Every one acknowledges the Dutch bonnet to be a species of hair adornment to which cne has to be cultivated, and, as Oscar Wilde said of old blue china, it is very difficult to live up to. The hair must be kept well ar- ranged, the neck “fixings” should harmenize, and it cannot be worn with “just any sort of a gown.” Theso bonnets are still so infrequent as to occasion a turning of heads when an espe- clally striking ona goes past; the women get to feel “bald™ when wearing them, and ‘the men wonder how colds in the head are averted. One woman declares that each tine she goes out adorned in hers she feels that passers-by are saying, “There goes one of the galety girls.” The plain Dutch bonnets for street and church Aear are fashioned from black velvet, with bits of cut steel and Irish lace.. One to any woman “Who fs deft-fingered about tying a bow, for im ghe loops lie all the art. LEGERDENAIN PARTIES, Mind Rending «Hd a Mild Form of Hypno. tism Axe Vastly Popular. Soclety folk must;have something beside social functions t8 interest them. Palmistry and astrology have Hoth had their sway for two seasons. There is not a fashionable woman but knows ker future, her fate and her disposition~thatt is, It she brought a devotee's faith ts the science The present vogud' in New York is tcie- pathy. People Waiil to see if transwission of thought is possible, and if thes can compel others to do their,hidding by an unspoken desire. Mrs. Paran Stevens pays large sums of money to noted eonjurers for an appear- ance at her entertainmsnis, amusing the guests by all that Is wierd in ming reading | and feats of legerdemain. It s, therefore, & natural result that fashionable atteation should turn toward psychical experiments These eveninge devoted to telepathy at fash- fonable houses are the outcome. The regulation exquisite dressing, elaborate supper and Lander's orchestra_ are the ac cessories for a “telepathy party.” The modus operandi is to arrange the guests in a circle, holding each other's hands. Perfect silence is observed. The leader, one who s held to possess unusual power, puts her mind upon A certain thought, and’ she must will it that the working of her brain Is transmitted to the person whose hand she holds. The re- celver of this thought adds scmething to it and in turn sends it on through the electric current of her fingers to her neighbor's brain This transmission is continued around the en- tire circle. When the last guest is reached, tha hands remain in touch, while each per- son relates the product of her brain, and to bo up to professional standards the thought should have grown as naturally as an acorn to an oak. This successful result is whit the women who are giving so many hours to its study alm for. A8 a game for the morning hours it is outrivaling duplicate whist in popularity, and some of the young women who won trophies n that field are fitting themselves to be victors in this contest of mind reading. Even the debutantes, who naturally consider lifo made of tea, roses and dancing, are in- clined to be patronizing and join in the amuse- ment. One “bud” confessed that she and her boon friend held hands through the ser- mon on Sundays and compared thoughts afterward, “and,” she added, “‘we generally succeed, for thero is nothing to distract us you know, and we can't talk.” As for ths sclence of telepathy, it is cnly old wine in a mew bottle, 'Tis the old- fashicned mind reading, an inferlor sort of hypnotism, that has amused the gay little circles at army posts in the west for many years. The child who used to say at school “Can_you tell what I am thinking about?" thought it most wonderful if the companion guessed right; but the enthusiastic smart woman of today will tell ycu that it has its root in a scientific fact; in a word, vibra- tions. That sight, sound, thought, are exch the product of tho air waves. You admit that, and she goes on with her theory. “‘Now,” she says, ‘'your medium is the per- son whose brain vibrations fit into your vi- brations. Bach person has one peculiar to herself. Yours may be a right-hand rotary motion and hers s left-hand rotary move- ment, and when you-iry to bring them to- gether, they fit as the spirals of a corkscrew. 1t is well knownithat an electric current held in cne hand will'pass through the body of tho person you ‘touch; these wave currents do the same thing. There is nothing et all wonderful about®it when you study it,” she glibly concludes. d These telepathy parties are not always composed of the gentler sex. Unbelieving men are inveigled Ifto coming, “for,” re. marked a bright #rl Yast week, “we want to see If they can, prgve tho, ownership of strongar minds.”. Nof does the evening con- sist of the ono yarlgty of trial mentioned. A member of the party is sent from the reom and the circle sit like a silent jury de- ciding that he shall do their will. He plays the piano, finds hidden articles, pours out a glass of water and-hands it to some desig- nated guest, eta, ete. - Some New Salnds. It has been an unwritten law of cookery that the substantial part of a salad should be composed of vegetables ‘mot saccharine. But some epicures have recently decided against this doctrine. They have served shaddock, oranges and alligator pears with French or mayonnaise dressing, for that worn by a fashicnable woman at St. Tiom:s' last Sunday had the small crown, with its point toward the. front, of coarse Irish lace, This hore five narrow ribs of clipped astra- | Khan, that joined a border of the same ma- terial. The very large loops at thé back were of black velvet, three cn either side, the center joined with a round steel buckle, She had ‘placed it far back on her hair, that shone with vigorous brushing and waved into a large Langtey coll on the neck. | Another affalr was toque shaped, coming |to a round point In front. The crown was an open bit of silk gulpure. At either side s | large fet medallion formed the root from ' which branched out variegated loops of green | brocade. — One set supported an upright, | tiny black feather, and two brozd tabs of velvet fell over the loose coil of halr. The Napoleonic era which is s over us has its expression in some of new bonnets. — They are formidable with | their high arch of glittering scales. How- | ever, they omit to curve downwards over the {ears, but finish tho necessary by boasting |# ecockade of plumes at one side. The lo effecct in the back seen in the other bonnets is carried out here with tiny drooping fezthers or poluts of lace and vel | Jet s universally tabooel for crowns. Its | substitutes are siirred chiffon and thick like Venetian, Escurial or gulpure evening wear light shades of velvet form the rpicce when any 1s needed The most artizt boanet for gasligh I Lave seen was worn by Olga Nethersole, the English actress, whoze clothes are fa- mous, She wore it placed o far back that the whole front of her coiffure was un- touched. Its body was merely a Greek | border band of cut eteel, that stocd up for lan inch. At ts two extremities were, sep arately, a flat bow of pink velvet, spangled | th Eteel, and three small lavender feathers, | cno of which stood upright, the two others | arocping. This style s already titled “the Nether- jsole/” and Is reaping a justifiable meed of popularity. Hers is ping the that | | | | | siguated as the its difference from the Dutch the lack of crown. Whether crowned or | uncrowned, to be In the vogue, your bonn:t | must be situated at the extreme end of th partng, and its loops, like wings, must stand sideways to the breeze. Tiie new bonnet is the easiust fonable frivols to bulld at English style e consisting in of all fash home-—that s, DUTCH AND EMPIRE BONNETS. course which divides the roast from the sweets. 1t has proved most palatable. To prepare oranges for a salad, slice them very thin; serve in fiit plates and let each BUESt prepare her own dressing of vinegar, oll, pepper and salt. - Mayonnaise 18 a trifie too heavy for the fibres of oranges, but it | serves excellently on sheddocks (of grape fruits), that do net. possess so delicate a flavoring as their smaller relatiyes, When preparingythe Jatter It is wiser to | cut the slices intp; guapters, innocent of rind for otherwise they ave unwieldly, | The small, toothsome alligator pear fs friendly with either dressing, but those whose | [nlllau-s are hard ‘to’ tlckle lean toward t plezzant tang of” vidfgar and oil, u d plessunt tang ol i 1 oil, unmixed A few hou.wmtps’m\-e introduced these | fruits on crisp let¥pds leaves; the bending of green on yellow ¥Aéntls a pleasant artistic touch anl the r'{’sv n“vr it being caten to. gether fs—to qit¥e’ the Bnglis **not I getl e’ the Bnglish—+not haif A new tomato B&EA made its presentation at a luncheon last’eek. The vegetable had en taken in M8Dfaw stats, peeled and | squeezed throughld doMender inio a quivering | pulp. It was plusde into a long, narrow | mold and into ihm der box uniil congea then brought cnothw. table the midst of £helsps of romaing. ; dn serving the hostess divided it intosokhick slices wi h a woolen salad kuife.; Moyonn is: d added, and the torato fr ereator christened If, was from an artistic apd. an point HOUSELO Suggestions as to the Way to Eradica Fuge, re are few housckeepers who have not awakened scme wornlng to find the sug flour or bulter With ants, the hang Ing shell invad:d with rats, the sink overrua with roach So repidiy do these peits bresd that mist herole efforis only will exterm nate ) sfter (hat a constant b2 - mantainad k | | | | alive 10 th them, @ watch s clear v e Cerrosive sublimats the qu 13 known y reis Thi should L corrasi 100 5 must to » P clous. part abou ity wat which makes it very strong. This, used as a wash, Is nearly always effective for the time being, but Gther measures are necessary for & complete riddance, Ants usually appear in the pantry or cellar- way, and invade everything they find. Sugar flour, etc., so aftected should bs scalded with plenty of hot water, to kill those already there. Then everything should be removed from the shelves and ecalding water poured over. Corrosive sublimate solution may then bo poured around, and when the shelves are dry blow with a powder bellows red pepper n every crack and crevice, It Is unlikely they will ever raturn. Rats and mice are more dificult to deal with. Polson is out of the question in the summer, for they always choose a place in the house to dle. Traps fail to ensnare tham The only plan to drive them away absolutely is to get a quantity of potash, put it in the sun til it becomes soft, and them, with a stick, smear every hole that can bo found coner than walk through this a rat wil change his abode. From a drugglst who sells glaso get all the pleces they throw away, pound fine and throw in the holes. Being sharp it will cut their feet, This combina- tion, potash and glass, is a never-falling curs Roaches are among the most persistent pests that invade a house. Get equal parts of paris green and borax, and, at night, st around their haunts in oll dishes. They will die away like magic. Sometimes they are found in desks, especially in offices. Th preparation scattered frecly under the bot- tom paper will rid the drawers of them. It is almost impossible ta get rid of bugs in a o't weod bad. Better burn the bed up In the beginning., It is generally true that the baby's crib is the offending member, being made of softer wood. Then all the beds In the houso should be given a turpentina bath pouring it Into all the cracks and crevices. The spring should have an extra good dose. and the edges of the mattress, bolster and pillows soaked. A pint to a bed Is the average allowance. This will kill all bugs it reaches. Blow insect powder all over the bed, spring and mattress, examine the bed every day, repeating this treatment twice a week for a month. Next varnish the woodwork This will close up all little eracks where th, could have hidden, and not only keep them out, but prevent others from getting in. The base hoards and other paint should also be looked to, turpentined and, if thought neces- sary, varnished. Such treatment will destroy them in short order. Willow cribs and rockers need attention, particularly during warm weather. The rem. edy for these Is scalding water, an applica- tion of corrosive sublimate solution and a coat of varnish, which had better be left to a furniture dealer to administer. Fashlon Notes. is going out as abruptly as it rmine came in, Flowered taffeta ribbons and artificial flow- ers galore are to be features of summer mil- linery. Dark terracotta capes richly trimmed with det, and edged with black fur, are very ef- fective day wraps. Among the novelties in neck gear is a sable collar band, with rosettes and long stole ends of lace on either side of the front. Milliners have given special prominence to yellow in laces, velvets, rosettes, algrettes chiffon and gold passementeries and orna- ments, Black is said to be the fashionable color of the moment, and the woman who has been every kind of a blonde from pale yellow to a Titian divinity will not hesitate to ap- pear in cbony locks. Eton jacket in fur is very popular. ctly at the waist, fits snugly and has usually wide lapels and collar, but its big slecves are quite as often made of silk or velvet, With a decollete hedice, ribbon and velvet throatlets are again worn, the newest being tied at the back In outspreading bows, and ornamented in front with jeweled stars and crescents, A pretty evening dress Is made of white embroidered chiffon over white atin, trim- med on the skirt with three rows of lime- green velvet, and on the simple full walst with pink roses and green leaves. The newest coats and wraps have sloping shoulders—almost no shoulders at all—as a natural réaction after the long period of bullt- up shoulders in garments of all sorts and de- scriptions. Although skirts that are close-fitting at the fop and flarlng voluminously at the bottom are In Lighest vogue, they are not allowed ab- solute sway. They are not aniversally liked, noither are they universally becoming. White lawn lace-trimmed petticoats, ocut after the umbrella pattern, glving the desired fulness around the feot, ape among the lead- Ing speclalties in underwear. And dainty flannel skirts arg made with ruffles and inser- tions of open w embrofdery. No woman who studies the art of dress undervalues the black gown. And yet how few wear it with discretion. Black becomes fair hair and a bright complexion. The darker woman must reliove it with touches of vivid color. Fur this winter has heen sold by the fur- leng. Undoubtedly it is the trimming of all trimmings for winter uses, and, granting good quality—that, Is real fur—it s a wise and safe Investment, apart from from present use. Fur i always fashicnable. A mode which is hovering on the threshold Is the utilization of the skins of baby leop- | ards for tight-fitting walst coats, to be ween with seal skin jackets left flying wide open. The effect Is not unlike that of o gold em broldered vest, but is a deal costlier A vory pretty mutton leg sleave has ap. peared amang the dresey tollots cf the sea son, which shows a delicate flat embroidery In beads and sitk In pointed designs on the entire teg of the sleeve, and also from wrist to elbow. A vest decorated to match fs an effective addition. Many of the colored cloth capes aro lined with lovely fancy silks, in soft contrasting shades, and when the friar's hood is lined to correspond, a very charming effect produced, and there are many cpportunities of showing the smart lining, either by acci- dent or design. is minire Nd Tho only woman chemist in New York City is Miss Ida Welt, a Vassar girl. There are twenty-four women taking the graduate course at Yale this year. Among them is one from Radeliffe coliege. The students of the University of Californin have decided to adopt a reform dress of the modified Syrian pattern for out-of-door wear, A public library recently presented to the city of Galena, Iil,, carrics with it the very modern condition that four of its nine trus- tees shall be women, Harvard is to have an elective cooking course added to its curriculum. Evidently the coming Boston bachelor has aspirations beyond chafing-dish cookery, An Oakland, Gal., woman has a weakne: for odd or interesting pitchers, and has managed in the short space of five years (o get together a collection numbering 126, Mrs. W. A. Lecnard and Mrs. F Brown, two of the United States treasury detectors of burned and counterfeit money, are claimed to be the most expert in the world. In the Cambridge (England) Mathematical tripos list this year the name of Miss John- son of Newnham stood alone in the first division of the first class of the second part of the tripos, beating all the men. Miss Helen Gould is not one of the women who find only picturesque charity attractive. With the check that goes yearly to the Babies' Shelter of the Church of the Holy Communion goes, too, the condition: *‘Ro servo the cots for the two most uninterest- ing babies.” A Russian woman, Mlle. Tartanovski cf Odessa, has learned the trade of watch- making, and has been awarded th: diplcma of master watchmaker by the trades’ coun- cil in Odessa. She is the first Russian wo- man to adopt a trade hitherto monopolized by men. The editor of the Melbourne Punch is a very enterprising young woman, by the name of Miss Agnes Murphy. She is a member of the leading wcmen’s clubs of that A tralian city, writes authorittatively on “Vie- toria and Its Resources,” and says that she expects to be flnancially Independent by the time she is 30, Mrs. Lea Merritt, who has decorated the Blackheath church, England, is said by Mr. Robert, Austin, the chemist, to have discov- ered a ground for fresco work which will make it durable. If this is true, as some one points out, a noble art may be revived in England, and possibly in America. The dowager empress of China has written a note expressing her thanks for the present of a New Testament mada to her by the foreign women residents of Peking, on the occeasion of her sixtieth birthday. With the note were sent for presentation to the donors, valuable articles of silk and satin, handkerchiefs, exquisitely embroldered laces d crepes. For the Dyspeptic and Epicure. [ ys of Quaker Oats, “How diges- tible!” The epicurey ““ How delicious ! The dyspeptic sa THE CURAPATHIC 1703 Dodge Street, Omaha. without health —The Grandest liy, nctivity, groat b physical ‘porfectd POrse 1 ever koW i i or woman whil L healthl hundsome or happy? by rhennmatism or dyspepsii, Wt e Gholr sufferin s it apitth'c Tnstitte appeali o tho ik Do our claims (0 publie o cal experionce 1 an wxtensive pe The fndamental prneipics of Our s 15 eanl: uat b should nac ¢ Kiown al Dtk iy W trostmont LY 1 trieat fhLs | an e foaity DO you think 1 Achie, thiat b it montall i a weil defind 1) 13 4 APy de facid] hafr ny heartiches o many bitter 1 ©very hatr can be destr G leading speel N EAL STUMACH, LIVER, Diseascs of nien di month), 5 80| HIOAT, KL s (o vicious habits and A very Buportant featiine of our praetl AUNTY We remove all blom ‘shes, dis i sealp, and ban (8. Duti(y t aud Uni (01l ashes lons and peetiily’ en prett aped. Wo shapo th sars by We permaae oy [§ nose wnd SUPER. 0 1t can neve OTR O € are.ro ve without patn, shoek or {njury 10 Bila rks, 110] 4\t ) Burgory a1 ballt Develope the bust and Duilding proecss is our ow We rogain Yol ¢ Teriny ¢ by tlose n lours 0 7. Suuda Adyice aid skiilful v We guarantoo i eur, " waer aud el 1% o f the nose, e by wkdll S wid v v, D san 3 nent assured Lo evor in in power,montal und physicul endorence, deve beatiy s hirsh), dry eruptive DIl you evir se 0 wis hiupny or contonted with Sue ) Thiat they question wio 1 L0901 peieii e tae 2y LN OF BEALL 0l 00 4 Fost (Elends my know th Ko blomish DISEASES OF TH I POISONING diseancs pecillar 10 wo nen (sarvicns v o h ents and discolor o bkt €k 1, mike (e b ) 4 ik 1l worbll growiha, without o tiiod and INSTITUTE and Most Beantiful of God's Creations is | and happinsss 2o hand in hand, Did Inactive skin, that was in s Farer (Fom nervous troubie:, thatr ot in life! srsulside be u sin, peopla of this city und Stewplonal edueation—a e lodig Ditellge it, unblas: on a thorsuzh that @ phyalelans kno should be unt 10 9ekance 10 euro his pat adoputhic. hon opathie, o 1ot e of caeh enas A 4 for physi st ons, s of s Ror o WOk D farn oF an Uiy wrophilsd heurs JFO 1S T L L ) (with S hbiis Moo How e i i om 2 i in cetie i g Woi ang Derfuous hair, Dut thunis Lo sol its | 6677 L4 ~ron- GRIP HALF A CENTURY OF SUCCESS. Dr. HUMPHREYS has had an experience of half a century—fifty years of success, He has N all the pathics and fsms rise and fall; the h, of Pasteur, and of Roux's Antis and has culled from each and every one the good and disearded the worthioss says in his latest manual, “at the | ety and, s ho of nearly fence in i they are family % With over fifty years © of medicine, and more | the usa and perfection of my & | now acknowledged to be the | medicines known to the publie With this ripe experience 1t fs 1ittle “TL his latest Specific for Grippe nnd Colds, 18 meeting With the greatest success of the age, Letters of thanks testifying to the of Colds, ppe, Influenza, Catarrh, Pains and Soreness in the Head and Chest, h, & neral *rostration Fov recelved n o all sources, and yet Dr. Humphreys never tires of hearing and reading of the prafse of his Specifics, And solfelts the experience of those why have used them, exp than forty fhics, st reliabl | the pract wonder that © Thront are fr AFine 18k, Gold Plated Walch °[s toevery reader) [l c! this pape Cotthisoutand send to nswith (5 sour fullimmeand address ang L7 Wwo will send you one of these g am\v]u old Hildhied watelivs by ex pross for examination, and 1£ you think it equt 1 o 1o any by our A Uit fs yours, 1o watch our ew At youean retin fLatnny tmo Wihin one s enr i€ ot Batistactory, and 1€y sell or enuse the & willgive you One Fre aLonce, A8 wo Aball Son sanplos for 60 davs on 3 K l‘whAd- LA MFG pIES Writa A our A c 3 i X EMES Riun Mme. M. YALE DISCOVERER OF The Excelsior Hair Tonic. BALD HEADS COVERED, For the first time in the history of the world a discovery is made that restore I its natural color without dy most wonderful woma fentist, fs the discoverer. The Excelsio onic is the remedy. Mme. Yale has pla rket for the benefit of the publ it will the natural color ir, no Tong it cure is permancnt in stop falling hair in Cro It restores tne ha 8 a luxuriant growth. 1t I8 cure for every ailment of the h or scalp. The whole world bows down to Mme Yale's ‘discovery and to her great skill as chemist, which has neve 0 equaled by or woman. The Excelsior Halr Tonic complete sway over the human hair. There no ailments which the hair Is helr to that cannot cure, Heware of - imitations. every bottle Is lab Mme, M. Yal slor "Hair Tonic. dnteed o Tystor Halr Without Dy rice $1 per bottle; Id by all drugglsts. Mail filled by MME. M. YALE, Chicago. on bald guaranteo it y 6 for orders promptly MOREY BURNER. Indestructible, flame white, light evenly distrl cd, economy (three times usual illumination per <cublc footof gas) gental to eyoes, steadiness, A. C. MIOREY, LaGrange, llis. BREAKFAST — SUPPER. ERP P S GRATEFUL-COMFORTING. COCOA BOILING WATER OR MILX GURES QUICKER THAN ANY OTHER REMEDY, Tarrant's 1 of Cue behs and Capalba ts o safe, certain and quick cure fof & and gleet and 1y wn old-tricd romedy for nll Qiscases of the urfary or- ans. Cambining in o bighly trated form the Mo Virticg o cubebs 1a,' its portable from tasta (curing in ny other It THE CNOWN prevent fraud, D across the Tarrant & Hold by all ut Plates, BAILEY, DENTIB/. Paxton Blk., T0th and Farnam st Tol. 1085, or Fillin 0 Gold Il ) | {Gold Crowns, |[Bridge tevth: xtract aicin m preparat i MOST VALUADBLE RIEMIDY, To vory package ha 1 I with th Teeth Witho sce that $1.00, 5,00 t2oth 6.0 | Teeth Out in Morning, New Teeth 8ame Day, 8. REOTIIM, LD D NE il SK > iy SULITURE, lons of the eon Xursat, ths ey-0row s g5 8L, oo, Wi SUFZOLS O DY 1) Th oD sratly e S HALR, agaln by tha NEEDILE. Lowad 1t may te avo birth, wnd discolored » 20930, . tatton slarg ol amave weinkles, X tha s aral ptifhe dis0 v faz, yoi las s tas 1310 20 poands a sl anl »afidanes 0bs a0, aud o HOUR Of 0ur L 19 2102 BIWA/E | THE CURAPATHIC INSTITUTE, 1703 DODGE STREET, OMAHA vices froe this month, required Wil only cha g0 for m feine and Lo eases whore opuration | TRADE MAR WHO IS HE! He {1 ono of the most ehllifil of Chinese flogs tors. beeanse of his grea Knuiy und clires, Tlaving besn elght yeors n the medical colleie of China e understands the e dite action of over 5.000 remedies, With fours n years of practive and four uf that hus given ation bicled nds of testi= curing EVERY refunded. Amp Lor book © Wao, GI9 N, 1 in evor nsultat, vl .. auestion blank; -st,, Owaha, N