Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, January 13, 1895, Page 10

THE OMAHA DAILY BHE: SUNDAY, JANUARY 13 TRAINING ATALANTAS, Five Women Who Lead as Instructors of | Physieal Cultare. The school or college nowadays that to provide a department for physical train- ing is far behind the times. When a dozen or less years ago we had a few mild gym- nastics done to slow music, we now have almost a sclentific system for physical de- velopment, and the vigorous body s con- sidered of as great Importance as the *‘sound mind.” Of necessity then fails | | have arisen teachers in the land who are learned in every art of physical culture known to the classical old Greeks and Romans, as weli as a great many of which they never even dreamed. Ths tnstructor or director of the gymna- slum Is more often than not a woman, and a woman, moreover, who writes *'M. D."" after her name. In addition to being able to di- agnote every 11l to which her pupil is en- titled by heredity or which she may have de- veloped on her own account, the director must be able to instruct a girl in the art of vaulting, turning back somersaults, military drill, swimming, rowing, sprinting, and even foot ball. Verily, the instructors in our gym- naslums must be all-around avhletes in every senso of the word. Miss Elen Le Garde is perhaps the best known, as she is not only a very succossful instructor of physical culture, but a_writer and inventor as well. She has visited every gymnasium of importance in Burope, learning something, so she says, from each one. The only piece of apparatus of the 300 or more in use In gymnasiums, invented by a woman, is the musical dumb’ bells, which we owe to Miss Le Garde, She has been honored, and the only woman thus honored by the North American Turner PROF. KATE ANDERSON. Bund, having been their credited representa- tive at various conventions and congresses, where the subject of physical training was under discussion, notably the one at Chi- eago, during the World's fair. Miss Le Garde is at the head of the physi- cal tralning department of the Providence, R. I, public schools, and probably instructs no less than 25,000 children during the year. Miss Le Garde is very fine looking; she is tall, has bright eyes (that nothing escapes), very dark, brown hair, and rather a round, tull face. Her expression animated; she is very enthusiastic and ambitious and a bril- liant conversationalist. Wellesléy college considers that the sys- tem -of physical training adopted there, as {deal, and ‘that it has & finer collection of statistics recording physical condition than ny woman's institution. This college is also Teading In the evolution of organized out-door sports and pastimes—not athletics— as a part and outgrowth of the department of physical training. Miss Lucile Eaton Hill is at the head of this department, and with the assistance of the physical examiner, manages the class crews, teams and clubs. Miss Hill coaches the crews and starts all the games. She has- organized bicycle, basket ball, tennis, golf and other clubs, each student is required to do a certain amount of regular, systematic work in the sport undertaken, and she can not change from one kind to another, one object of this being to develop the quality of persistency, which is certain to help the girl mentally. One of the best known and most popular teachers of physical culture in St. Louls is Mrs. Mary H. Ludlum. For about half a dozen years she has been teaching in the High and Normal schools, and in connection with this work glves instruction in the gym- nasium of St. Vincent's seminary. Until within a year she has taught the Delsarte system, which lately she has changed for the one employed by the Turner bund, which has its headquarters at St. Louis. Miss Kate 8. Anderson, sister of Dr. Ander- son of Yale college, is in charge of the gym- nasium at the Chicago university, which, by the way, was founded by Mr. John D. Rocke- feller. .. Miss Anderson spent last summer in Scan- " dinavia, and while in Stockholm she received private instruction in medical gymnastios, under the direction of Prof. Tongren, who is at the head of the Royal Institute of Gym- nastics in Stockholm. Miss Anderson is bending all her studies in the medical direol tion_and hopes soon to recelve the degree of M. D.; her object is to make a specialty of medical gymnastics. Upon Miss Anderson’s roburn last autumn she found awaiting her “the appolntmont to the position at the Chi- cago university, A course in gymnastics is required of all under-graduate students, and * the privileges of the gymnasium are offered to all graduate students. STALWART COLLEGIANS, Alice Bertha Foster, M. D., late of the Chicago university, Is now instructor and director of physical culture at Bryn Mawr college. At the Chicago university the witehing cap and gown is worn by students, and upon all official occasions, by the faculty. Miss Fos- ter, or “‘Dr. Foster,” studied at the medical school of the University of Buffalo, and grad- pated with honors for her thesis on spinal eurvature There are about 300 students at Bryn Mawr, and they all go In for physical cul- ture, The Sargent authropometric charts havo been introduced, and at the first meet- ng in the autumn of the freshmen class, each member s given her own “curve” (o study, with prescription cards to follow. The students take the Swedish drill at first; this 18 followed by the more general range. By the generosity of Miss Garrett of Baltimore, and the popular subscription of the students a swimming pool was bullt last summer at the college, and now every girl is being fnitiatod into the gentle art of swimming in conncction with her other athletic cxercises, Winter Exercises r Children, Winter bables are often looked on as un- fortunate, in that they are debarred from out- door exercises, but it ought not to be so Auy cbild f moderate health, properly clothed, can go out at six weeks of age, unless forbidden by the doctor, and if no sickness tntervenes, overy day after. From 10 to 12 i the morning is the best time, but afternoon Wwill do as well, provided the sun is up. Sickly bables need exerciso as well as the more healthy, but judgment must be used in gegard 1o frequency, length of outing, ete. Many m-thers claim that a necklace of amber Dbeads constantly worn s a preventive of susceptibility of taking cold, Children of 2 years of age who are strong and active, and all older children, should bave a romp in the yard on all days when not actually storming. A healthy child has LAmmense vitality, and remaining indoors in warm room weakens this immenssly, whilo éutdoor play increass it. The street is too dangerous for & playgrcund, so that if the yard be small, a little thought must be taken 10 provide amusement. A barrel of sand or sawdust, with shovel, bucket, wheelbarrow and cart are fasclnating 0 most children. The sand ean be purchased of builders, and the sawdust either from a mill or perhaps a friendly liveryman, a bar- ! Cf the outfit will amount to about 30 cents, making a mighty ¥mall outlay in comparison to the amusement it affords. All sorts of games can be played with these, and a boy of 10 years old will not refuse to be enter- tained by them. A coasting slide is another pastime. Bank up and level off as much snow as necessary, than the cther. Sleds, of course, are the best fun, but if water be thrown on till the slide is slippery a smooth board, or even a cobble stone, will shoot down just as well. It the yard Is large enough, an ice pond is anothes wource cf pleasure, that even ‘‘grown-up' children will not despise. This is made very simply by thr-wing water every night in ons spot, allowing it to freezs solid before using One eminent college professor, now dead, kept his brood in the yard every day by just such a device, The outdoor habiliments of all children, both young and old, should be selected for warmth and lightness of weight. Bundiing up not only prevents free usage of limbs, but also impedes the circulation of the blood, and makes the child an easy prey to cold, Toddlers should have stout shoes, overshoes, drawn-leggings, a pea jacket, mittens, cap and veil, besides their ordinary house clothe: Older children will do quite well in rubber boots, pea jacket, mittens and cap. A pea Jucket is preferable to any other style of coat, belng just as warm but much less glumsy. —Children all like free use of thelr eis. If the house has an empty room, turn It over to the children, Have no pictures on the walls nor any furniture that is of the slightest value. ~ The windows should ba screened by wire netting, and if near the floor, protected by iron bars without so that there is no danger of falling out. If the floor &hows wide cracks, have the children putty them up. The stove, if one is needed, must also be screened, to prevent the slightest possibility of fire. Any decorations the children want to make should be allowed, provided they furnish them with their own money or ingenuity. It gives them a sense of ownership they can attain in no other way. Here all the rough and tumble games not permissible in the nursery can be played. The floor, even, can be used for roller skating and croquet, while base and foot ball, circus and tag can be played with impunity. A tool chest and scroll saw will while away many rainy days, and a heap of sawdust Will keep even the baby in Elysium, Make the children themselves keep the room tidy, and while not insisting on the order that reigns In the nursery, yet see that utter chaos 1s avoided. With =0 many counter attractions displayed by saloons and like places the first desire of every parent should be to keep her chil- dren home. The only way it can be done is to furnish pastimes ‘that so draw them to the simple home life that no place in after vears will ever be able to compete with it, At no time does foresight so repay as in childhood. THE CORRECT CORSET. Now to Accentuate the Graceful Lines of the Figure. A captious critic said of Calve last winter that he could see nothing admirable about her, unless it was the long line of her bust. Immediately, American beauties began to adopt something else belonging to the great singer, besides cigarettes and a Spanish comb. They tried on corsets whose fullness in, or lack of bust, lent to the figure that graceful long"line from the two tiny muscles in the front of the throat to the point of the bosom. French women have long known that this situation of the bust makes an exquisite con- tour of figure. If it was not natural, they acquired it, and the result made the French figure with its broad shoulders, low, small bust and long. slender waist the ideal one for the civilized world., But it was only a copy from Greek art which Mme. Recamier’ brought into vogue during the empire. No Venus there had a plgeon breast, nor banded her bosom up to the collar bone as the American woman- too Irequently does. The Jonger the slope, so much more perfect the curve, granting always that the incline allows of another curve to the line of walst, Bven French conturieres did not sufficiently impress the Amerlcan mind with this idea, until the fashionable women across the chan- nel adopted it. Then English corsets were fashioned to suit the need. The bones were either cut sufficiently low for the bust to fall to the correct line, or the fullness across the chest allowed the same position. Take Mrs. Kendall or* Mrs. Langtry, for instance,sthe two English figures with which, perhaps, we are most famlliar; there one can note that superb slope along the chest; and, agaln, in our own Emma Bames-Story, whose confour is well nigh perfect, the line is almost phe- nomenal from chin' to bust. Contrast this with Lillian Russell, whose corset binds the fullness over the dress line, no matter how slightly decollete Is the bodice, L went into a corset shop avenue yesterday to find if women were adhering to the start they made last spring. “Customers now add to an order, ‘be sure you get the bust low enough,’ and, In fact,” we only advise the high-bosomed article for very slim women. But, even they,” concluded the lady clerk, put lower down, “For evening wear, tho short corsets are worn exclusively. They are especlally favor- on Fifth New York able for women inclined to over-plumpness, for then a decollete gown discloses only the lines of throat and chest.” These corsets, | found, run below the walst to @ point back and front; *much more com- fortable, than those cut off at the walst line, for they were apt to be trying to stout women,” Then the line over the Lips is better when regulated by whalebomes." Plain white corsets seem to have heen shelved with white stockings. Black satin s correct for ordinary wear, but every varlety of stays are sold made up in fancy brocades, and these are the modish thing just now, no matter if one's gown be as “plain as a pipe-stem.” For full dress, the ground is white satin, gayly flowered or wreathed in designs, this being considered more elegant than the blues and pinks of former years. For stout—well, fat women—the corsetiers have devised a new comfort, Instead of the irritating whalebone ends that renders setting down a torture, a wide rubber band outlines the lower edge of the stay. This retains the shape, but yields with every movement, For women whose fullness reveals through the bedice the exact line where the corset ends a pointed bust bas been f ioned. This effects its end in an admirable manger. It costs from $7 to $25 to have a corset #el of either costing about 10 conts. The rest made, but such stays last for years, always With an incline at both ends, slighter at one | | sister to the Plerrot’s, is made of white satin it retaining their shape, therefore, is the best economy in the end. GAY MASQUERADING, Some of the Charming Conceits Worn at Funcy Dress Balls, NEW YORK, Jan. 12.—In what may be called the mid-season of winter gafoty is the moment when fancy costumes begin to play Important parts in the feminine world. The costumed galeties of this scason are 0 many and varied that it would be hard to enumerate them all. But among others the old-fashioned ““don- key party” has been revived, and a new whim is to dress the guests as vegotables; all the green and colored things beloved by his ass-ship. The “party" itself is, as everybody knows, merely the pinning of a tailless donkey drawing against the wall, and then trying blindfolded to fasten the dismembered por- tion where nature has intended it to grow The costumes may be of lampshade paper or common calico. Either medium, if cleverly handled, will| turn out an effective and inexpensive vege- | table, and a carrot and a lettuce may be| made in this way: | For a carrot choose calico of a yellowlsh | red shade for the skirt, and the same material In the green of the tops for the bodice. Have first a kilted skirt of the carrot tint, and then over it a peplum drapery of long pleces shaped as much as possible like the legume: The low, green bodice has no sleeves, and I8 best in a pointed shape with kreen rib- | bons finished with high upstanding bows | forming the shoulder straps. A green filet and tufted side bow orna- ments the hair; the long gloves are of deep green suede, ‘ From the walst up, as can be seen, grows then only the green tops, and to Keep all the lower part of the costume in harmony with the idea, the slippers and stockings are in the carrot tint. The tough lampshade paper—the un- crinkled sort—affords the best possibilities for the lettuce, which, however, must begin with a_foyndation of cotton. Make a low, round bodlce and short scant skirt of this, over which the paper skirt, in leaf sections shading all the way from white to deepest green, is next to be glued. Model delicately the edges of the leaves with a dull knife, and put them on the foundation as if the vegetable were growing downward. Drape pale green paper over the bodice in any way liked, but have the short sleeves two distinct lettuces with white centers. For the head, either an Inverted lettuce as a hat or else a green satin fillet and side pom pom; like every ofMFBrgan of the body, and the lachrymal gland, is not placed behind the eye simply g filljspace or to give expression to_emotion. ., it is usuadl for the laity to belleve the latter theory,, for; tears are indissolubly con nected with gorrgw, although eye specialists assert that there, is no sclentific explanation for this accepanae. The only Fgasqn is this: That the tear sac is formed;jof many sympathetic nerve fibres, that .jn any emotional condition of the body discherge the gland's secretions, One may weep for joy and the expression is not paradoxical,sthough commonly 8o con- sidered. The pspohic action of tears Is purely a nervous oms, the reflex action is produced from physical reasohs. Tickling the nose on facing the (wird may cause a shower of toars as abumddnt as the resul of deepest grief or greatebt pleasure. The chemical properties of tears consist of phosphate of lime and soda, making them very salty, but hever bitter, Their action on the eye is most beneficial, and here consists their prescribed. duty to the body, washing thoroughly that sensitive organ, which allows no forelgn fluld to do the same work Nothing cleanses the cye like a good, salty shower ‘bath, and medical art bas followed nature's law In this respect, advocating the invigorating solution for any distressed con- dition of the optics. Tears do not weaken sight, but improve it. They act as a tonic to the muscular vision, keeping the eye soft and limpid, and ft will be noticed that women in whose eyos sympathetlc tears gather quickly have brighter, tenderer orbs than others. When the pupils are hard and cold the world attributes it to one’s dispo- sition, which Is a mere figure of speech, im- plylng the lack of balmy tears that are to the cornia what salve is to the skin or nourishment to the blood. The effect of tears on the skin about the eyes, however, is intensely irritating and in- flaming. They keep the epidermis in a dark, puffy condition, and in legends only do weep- ing women preserve the beauty of their broad white lids. = Niobe, all tears, may have had clear eyes, but she could not have been a comely sight when she was indulging in her favorite pastime, The reason some women weep more easily than others, and all more readily than the sterner sex, has not its difference in the strength of the tear gland, bub in the possession of a more delicate, impassion- able nerve system. The nerve fibers about the gland vibrate more easily, causing a downpour from the watery sac. Men are not nearly so sensitive to emotion; their sympathetic nature—the term fs used in a medical sense—is less developed, and the eye gland s, therefore, protected from shocks. Consequently a man &hould thank the formation of his nerve nature when he contemptuously scorns tears as a woman's practice. Why facial distortion should be the usual accompaniment to ~ the sobbing of the gentler sex there seems no satisfactory soe lution. It may be that the nerves which lead to the muscles as wires to marionettes twitch and pull them in this fashion while AR I [ PIERRETTE AND THE CARROT. pale green shoes and stockings. And at last, under the skirt, which should come but little above the ankles, a full flouncing lace petticoat will further simulate in dancing the white crinkled heart of the vegetable the young woman represents. Along with the edibles, flowers are also admissible at a donkey party. All are possi- ble in the lampshade paper, either crinkied or plain, and violets, lilies, narcisses, roses, poppies, peonies, daisies and sunflowers may be mentioned as most easily accomplished. When worn by the right sweet she—for as even Ovid tells us, *“no complexion all can bear"—these dainty costumes are revelations of what can be done with little money. Where expense s not a thing to be con- sidered, a mushroom could be created that might rouse even the donkey on the wall to animation. Peau de sole in a rich white, tinging almost to brown, and pale pink chiffon are the best materials for this, First, there is a kilted skirt of the chiffon, and over it a panier drapery of the peau de sofe rounded well out over each hip to coun- terfeit mushrooms. The round bodice of peau de soie is held over the shoulders by straps; some inches below, on the arm, hang precariously the short, plump mushroom sieeves, The slippers and stockings which are to imitate the stem of the plant are in the brown white of the silk. The suede"gloves must be the same shade, and a mushroom hat with a pink, shirred chiffon lining can be made by gathering at the edge a large circle of the peau de sole over a wire ring that has first been covered loosely with whito cotton batting. If the costumed entertainment s in the na- ture of a rather ceremonious dance, any of the characters of history may serve as mod- cls with which to gown it. Tall, slim, lily blondes may be Elaines and Enids, splendia brunettes Guineveves; and any well illus- trated Tennyson will’ supply becoming and romantic designs for the toilets. Patch and powder ladies need red heels and rich bro- cades. Dainty Dolly Vardens, on the con- trary, are sweetest in only gay flowered cali- coes, and a goddess of the most heavenly sort can be evolved from simple cheesecloth. If you are a lover of the Corsigan hero you might take a hint from ths Napoleonic resur- rection and be a Josephine, a Hortense or a Marie Louise. Again, If you bave only frivo- lous French tastes, and are of that sweet, slim, white type that is most adorable when audacious, you might copy Ciairin's white Pierrette. This charming costume, which is a sort of and ribbon and thin, white lace. The short, gored skirt Is first trimmed with flounces of lace up to the waist; over each of these a second one of the satin in deep points. The bodice of satin is pointed at the waist, and | the sleeves which fit tight to the elbow are | there finished with a heavy fall of the lace. | A bertha of this trims the low round neck, | und falls in ends mingled with long loops of | the ribbon over the shoulders. Two other | bows with flouting ends tie about the sleeves | above the lace flounce; the long, white Direc- | toire cane which {s carried in the right hand | is also ornamented with a large bow. Add | to all this a full ruche of lace that is worn | snugly about the bare throat; a pointed clown's cap of white felt, suede gloves, silk | stockings and square-toed shoes with lace | pomponettes. And then, as you stand the thing of beauty whose influencs Keats tells us is eternal, | thank heaven for your primal loveliness. And | don't forget the painter who has so dressed | it to perfection. | NINA FITCH. | The (hewmlstry of Tears. | Tears are never idle. Tennyson was using a poet's hyperbole when he sald so. They bave thelr functional duty to accomplish, | | clean ¢ they are at work emptying the tear gland of its contents. Few women can shed tears as gracefully as the Mater Dolorosa, whose face is only pathetic, not ugly, as the great crystal drops slowly flow 'down her fair cheeks, This is the graceful way to weep, but it Is a difficult pose to assume, requiring the mobility of a statue to carry it out satis. factorily. That "the copious shedding of tears *“which breaks the ice-bound fotters of the heart, I8 a healthful action, all physicians assert. In some cases it is even thought to avert insanity. Even here the reason Is scientific, for it is a sign of relaxation of the brain nerves from a tenseness that was congestion. Between man and monkey there is this essential difference of tears. An ape can not wWeep, not, s much because his emo- tlonal powers are undeveloped, as the fact that the lachrymal gland was omitted in his optical make-up. A Kitchen Bulletin, You may not ‘know, and if you do not, you will find it useful to bulletin in the kitchen the fact: That the secret of making sponge cake is not to beat the alr all out of the eggs after It Is once beaten in. Beat the yolks to a mass of bubbles, and the whites to a stiff froth. Then cut them Into each other with a few crosswise thrusts of a fork, and cut the ezrs Into the cake ‘mixture in the same fashion. Do not beat the cake after the eggs are added, That slamming the door of the oven will make cake “fall.” That shaking potatoes after the jackets are oft for a minute at the open window will make them ealy.”” The cold draught causes the starch ‘gells to burst open, making the feathery white flakes that are in such agreeable contrast to the sodden mass seryed 100 often for ampotuto. That plungingimadearoni for a single min- ute in a bath f esld water after it has been cooked tender - bbiling salted water pre- vents it being Mpasty."” That the crigp,! deliclous slices of bacon that are a featurs of s0 many appetizing dishes may be Ind by turning each slice every minute over a hot the in a pan large enough #0 that the slicts hall not touch; and then as soon as dellbatély browned on both sldes lift from the pan onto a sheet of butcher's coarse Wrapping ’ aper (save it for the pur- pose when it comesifrom ths market clean), and aliow the Bicdnitto drain upon it in the oven for another minute. g That an egy dhellshould never be thrown away in a failly ®hat likes coffee, Wash and ‘wipa the ¢k befors it is broken to use, and put the egs #1110 a covered glass jar. A couple of thd#? tikown into the bottom of the coffen biggih Witosettle the coffee as w1l as anything knowh! 'This is one of the econo- mies practiced fn houses where several sery ants are employed and there 15 a hou keeper to watch the small leaks In expense unts That a couple of shieets of a-blg newspaper wrapped about ice will kecp it half as long | again as ice that is uncovered. The paper is much more cleanly than a piece of blanket, as it can be removed dafly That crushed ice can be prepared in a couple of minutes by chipping off a plece from the large cake with an fce pick (see 10 | cent bargain counter); put the plece that is | to be crushcd in a clean coarse cloth (the burlap that comes wrapped about bacon, ham, lother. ete., after a boiling is admirable for this and other kitchen uses, as handling hot pots and | pans): gather the cormers of the cloth and | baug it two or three times against any un breakable surface, as a stone hearth, iron | sink, ete. Rinse the ice first, and use a loth, and the crushed ice’ will, be per- | fectly clean, as ico goes. | That a pineh of powder:d sugar, and an-| other of cornstarch beaten in with the yolks of eggs wiil keep an omelet from collapsing. Beat the whites stiff and cut them into the yolks, That & half-teaspoonful of chicory to one third of a cup of Mocha and two-thirds ot Java (or thersabouts) gives the rich, dark tint and peculiar flavor of French after-din ner “black_coffes."” That a little knowledge, dangerous, often saves the from disaster, Feminine Notes. Miss Frances Willard acknowledges her- self as favoring the single tax. Mrs. Maddocks, a Sydney wheel woman, has won international fame by riding a bicycle all: the way from Sydney to Mel- bourne, a distance of 600 miles. Somebody has discovered the curlous fact that the reluctance of women to ftell their age is no plece of modern sensitivencss, It is as old as the hills, In the old testament, although great numbers of women are men-: tioned, there is but one—Sarah, Abraham's wife—~whose age is recorded. Mrs. Whitelaw Reld is a musiclan of no Iittle merit and has a sweet volce for sing ing. Her little daughter, who resemblos her very strongly, has a taste for music, and received from her mother as a birthday present not long ago a small white plano, with her name inlaid in mother of pearl on the cover. Miss Susan B. Anthony and Mrs. Carrie Chapman-Catt will hold a series of meetings in the south, In advance of the coming national woman suffrage convention in Atlanta. They will visit Lexington and Lousville, ~ Ky., ~Memphis, Tenn., New Orleans, La., Jackson, Miss., Birmingham, Ala., and other cities, in each case by the invitation of the ladies in that place. Mrs. Brockholst Cutting prides herself on having the most perfect drawing room of the period of one of the Louis, in New York City. Whether it is Louis XV., or Louis XIV., I am blessed it 1 remember now, but whatever it is it is regal. There is a quantity of gold and red, besides wonder- fully embroidered hangings, so 1 guess it must be in the period of the gorgeous and gaudy “Roi Soleil.” Grand dames in Paris further than stockings sertions, that have been their extravagance this season. Some of them are now wear- ing hosiery made entirely of the costly fabric, with an ~embroidery of seed pearls on the instep. These real lace stockings are as fine and cobwebby as a veil or scarf, and are as expensive as they are dainty. Mme. Sarah Grand takes a vivid interest in the poor girls of London. Every Thurs- day evening when she is in town she at- tends Mrs. Frederic Harrison's Girls' Guild at Newton hall, and she joins heartily in all their occupations, She is a strong belicver in athletics for women and has taken especial pleasure in helping to provide the girls with pretty costumes for gymnastics, The managers of some cotton mills at Saco, Me., insist that their women employes shall wear their hair In a close coil about the head, and have also prohibited the big sleeve from being in evidence among the opera- tives during working hours. This sort of dress reform was adopted after several serlous accidents through the hair or dress of employes being caught in the machinery. far from being cook's cookery v have gone a step with real lace in Fashion Notos. Ball and dinner gowns trimmed with fur are always beautiful. Short, fancy collarettes of ermine are pretty, and very dressy for evening wear. Long strings of pearls, of whichi there are good imitations, are worn around the neck and caught up in festoons on evening dresses. Moire sllk petticoats lined with hop hair are worn to keep the voluminous dress skirts well flared out at the bottom. Persian suitings are distinctly American in construction, and compare most favorably with any of the products from abroad. The fur bodice, worn with a cloth or silk skirt and sleeves, is one of the season's fancies, and entire dresses are made of seal- skin and carcul. Throatlets formed of roses, violets or other flowers are another fancy for the neck with evening dress, and gauze rosettes set thickly onto a band of satin ribbon is still another. Soft russet buckskin vests, collars and muffs embroidered and fur edged, and worn en suite with cloth and velvet dresses, are among the fancies of the winter season, Some of the latest evening gowns are minus the sleeve entirely, having only a lit- tle strap affair to hold them on the shoulders, This is, indeed, a jump from the immense balloons. The fad for long gold chains, threaded with pearls or quite plain, as the wearer's purse will admit, is more in evidence since the chains have grown in length, so they can be draped once or twice over the bodice. Ermine, sable and fox are used even on dinner gowns of gauzy airiness, and do not.| scem _incongruous, so beautifuily does the soft fur combine and harmonize with the sheeny satins and soft velvets, Lustrous corded silks are now in great use. Dark green, golden brown and the rich frait shades prevail for dressy day costumes, and for evening toilets Persian mauve, bluet blue, English pink and cerise are the fa- vorites, “Silkwarp Trilby” 18 the name of a v pretty matetial to be used for next season's street and _traveling costumes. It is In Jacquard eftects, and in the evening colors the tints are as delicate and handsome as silks costing nearly double the price. The latest novelty in millinery is the pi turesque hat called the “Dane,” whose broad brim s woven from narrow velvet ribbon i termixed with moire of the same width, The crown is of velvet, the garniture consisting of flowers and feathers, A beautiful gown rbeently worn at a smart New York ball was of pale pink and satin, with rows of cut jets around the skirt. The walst was a close fitting hodice of pale rose satin, covered with accordian plaited black chiffon. A jacket effect was formed by side pleces of rose velvet, which were confined in front by a bow of black satin. While the knee-length coat will favored, it will be rivaled decided) Jaunty French Jacket with short, flaring skirts, showing three plaits fn the back, sleeves only medtum large and double re- vers, the deeper one of perforated cloth with a fancy perforated pattern as a border, the shorter one of velvet, the shade of the cloth Jacket, Jeweled and gold embroldered stuff, silks SUT with silver thread and glittering with artificial gems, lace wrought with divers stones, feathers and every conceivable tich and sumptuous thing will be used to make the picture collars of the coming year. The “‘ordinary” collar will continue to be a crus affair, with ever lengthening side projec- tlor still be by the P —— THE WOMAN OF FORTYSUMMERS, Jenness Miller Monthly, Full of outline and fair of face, Swinging her fan with languid gra White arms gleaming through folds of lacs, A woman of forty summers No thread of white in the auburn No line of age in the forehead fair, A life unmarred by touch of care, In spite of her for A husband-lover and children sweet, Pleasures to charm and friends to greet, Roses scattered before her fect, Through cach of her forty summers Summers all, for wint 1 her sur bold hine and made her Have killed her roses and left her old; Nothing she knows but summers, Nothing she knows of laden eloud, Of freezing air and tempests loud, Of snows that weave for Hope a ¢ 1 1 only summers, hroud; alm she sits in the balmy air, to fret, no cross to bedr, summer id on fair, his woman of forty summers, Yet cold and blast but make us strong, After th the robin's song; To the fullest life by right belong The winters as well as summers, And they whom fame shall carve in stone The women whom men would fain enthrone, The women whom God has stamped his own, Live winters as well as summers. P CONNUBIALITIES. - Grace—She's very eccentric. Bthel—How? Grace—She married the man. she was en- gaged to at the seashore last summer. Mr. Gamble—Would you like to take a chance in a lottery, Miss Overage? Miss Overage (blushing)—This is so sudden, sir. The crown prince of Japan wants to marry an American heiress. ~ Evidently the Japs doubt their ability to collect that war in- demnity from China. Dennison Wheelock, leader of music in the Carlisle Indian school, and a Chippewa girl, now at the same school, celebrated Christma day by getting married. Smart—Whatever induced your uncle (o marry the widow of a maa who was hanged? Simpson—He has been married to widow. before and said he was tired of having the virtues of former husbands flung in his face. Dr. Elias Shilling and wife of Lexington, IlL, celebrated their fiftieth marriage anni- versary on the ith, surrounded by thelr chil- dren, grandchildren and other relatives. In tho presence of the company they wera re- married, the ceremony being most impressive. For twelve years past October has been the most popular month for marrlages in Chicago. Last year June took the lead, with a score of 1,59 to 1,560 for October. January hed a record of 1,313; February, 877 March, 1,028; April, 1,425, and May, 1,381, Then came June, with her roses and warm skies, and 1,590 knots were tied by busy parsons. July, August and September had respectively 1,005, 1,117 and 1,356, the year closing, October, 1,660; November, 1,510, and December (estimated), 1350. Of the con- tracting parties the oldest groom was past 80 and the youngest 17. The former mar- ried a bride of 20; the latter one of twice his OATS A million a day eat it. Why ? None “‘just as good as.” Sold only in 2 Ib, Packages, TRADE MARK ~ The Oregonian Country Was NOT a desert six months ago— NEVER WAS. We DON'T have to build irrigating works. We DON'T have to cultivate nature to get a crop and WE NEVER HAVE A FAIL- URE of crops from any cause. We plant and cultivate the soil and nature does the rest, If you want to get there right call at our Omaha office, Room 101 Bee Building. We have the largest list of Oregon proper- ties for sale or trade that is in the market. Trades made on large properties only. 600,000 acres in one 20,000 acres of body —80,000 in an- timber land which will run 50,000 feet to the acre. STEARNS ‘RUIT LAND CO. OF OREGON. own age. The younger couples generally married In the spring, those of more mature years later in the year. The oldest bachelor to assume marital responsibilities was 68; the oldest spinster §9. Thirty-five grooms had passed 65, and ten brides were under 16, i S IVPIELIES, On the 9th the First corps, commanded by General Reynolds, was reviewed by the prosie dent on a beautiful plain at the ncrth ot Potomac creek, about elght miles from Hooke er's headquarters, writes Noah Brooks in the Contury. We rode thither In an ambulance over a rough corduroy road; and, as we passed over scme of the more difficult por- tions of the Jolting wiy, the ambulance driver, who sat well in front, occasionally let fly a volley of suppressed oaths at his wild toam of six mules. Finally Mr. Lincoln, leaning forward, touched the man on the shoulder, and said “Excuse me, my friend, are you an Episcos palian?" The man, greatly startled, looked around and_replied “No, Mr. ” be an_Episcopal like Governor warden." Prosident; T am a Methodist.” ncoln, I thought you must n, becauso you swear just ard, who Is a church The driver swore no more, The pastor Cal,, one J. W. of a church at Los Angeles, Campbell, took occasion re- cently to put this into His prayer: “Oh, Lord, vouchsafe Thy saving grace to the librarian of the Los Angeles city library, and cleanso her from all sin and make her worthy of her office. The librarian compensates the dominie for his intercession for her by calling on him to pay $5,000 for defamation of her character in public, Little Dot—I couldn’t make out what the preacher was talkin' about. Little Dick—It was a queer sort of a story, about a man what prepared a big dinner for a lot of com- pany, but nobody came, and s he et out into the highways and byways and = got strangers and beggars to come. Little Dot (thoughtfully)—1 s'pose they had no fee in thoso days, and things wouldn't Keep. St. Peter—What claim have you to admite tance here? New Arrival—T always paid my pew rent and sent the children to church. “I guess we can let you In on the same term; “Er—I didn't bring any money with me." Mr. Johnly—T didn't yesterday. You ought We had a young man from the theological collega to preach for us. Uncle Blackie—I knows dat, boss, en hits erzactly de reason T didn’t kum. 1'lows no stujents to practize on me. Mme. M. YALE DISCOVERER OF The Excelsior Hair Tonic. at church to have been there. see you COVERED, or the first time in the history of the world discovery is made that restores gray hair to s natural color without dye. Mme. Yale, that most wonderful " woman mist and ’@reat ntist, fs (b xeelsior Hair ale has placed It fit of the public and t will restore the natural color matter how long it has be is permanent in y wa in fr hours the hair on bald t growth, It {8 a ent of the hair ws down to Mme, great skill us a jed by man holds sway o re are hat it that & It will al o on heads Buaran or sealp. whole world Yale's discovery and to cherist, which or_woman. complet no_ailm cannot cure, 1 v bottle i Hair Tonlc. © Without Dy her are of Soe beled “Mme. M. Yale aranteed o Restore Price §1 per bott Sold by all Mail filled by MME. M. YALE, Chicago. AFino13k.Gola NP Plated Witch to =N STEM SET Lk druggsts. orders promptly every ronder of aper cut this out turn with or we will sond nt Watch, I 18" sl Indestructible, flame white, light ovenly distribute * edy o (three illumination por cubicfootof gas) genial o eyes, steadiness, A. G, MOREY,’LaCrange, llls " MIRTHFUL REMARKS, BREAKFAST — SUPPER. E P P'S GRATEFUL -COMFORTING. COCOA BOILING WATER OR MILK * GURES QUICKER ' OTHER REMEDY, and iy for all urlnary or- < in o highl, shape, and 8p n (euring in loan € tian any - othe preparation) make 1t THE MOST VALUADLI KNOWN REMEDY. o prevent fraud, ce it oyery package has i red sinip acrons the I with the sign Tarrant & ., upon it PRICE old by all arisy FiE DE. B. 0, WEIT'S NERVE AMD BRAIN TREATMENT Id undor “posilive written _guarantee, by ized nzent only, to curo Wenk Memory: of Liraif and Nerve Power: Lost M Quickne wace; Kvil 1 3 Confider rvousnous; Lassiindo; l) Draios Loss of of the Genorative Organs in either sex, cou vor-uxnrtion, Youthtul Errors, or Exzcessive Uso of Tobueco, Opiam or Liguor, which loads to Misery, Consumption, Insanit ard Doath, By mail, 16 box; six for §6: with writted euirantos or rofund money. Wost's Tiser Pilla coro Bick Headache. Hiliousness, Liver Complaint, Sour Momuneh, Dy Uoiitipation, GUANANTERS Letaed uly by Goodmun Drug Co, Omabs. N L el S A A e e SR