Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, January 6, 1895, Page 16

DAILY B ARY 6, 18 SKATING COSTUME What the Fashionable Woman Wears When | Skimming the lee. NEW YORK, Jan. b.—(Special)—The New York skating gown Is not a thing be labeled as such., With us the frozen period 18 t00 brief, too given up to the vast unfash onable majoriy, to make it seem to Madam Mode as worthy of a distinguishing uniform With an eye toward ease and comfort, well as picturesque effect, the lc 50 of blanket toboggan cloth A border of black and red stripes 1t this is considered to an Indin blue ground and black border may b stead. Grant then da w Just turned her 17th year younger fry seem to take seriously t n New York—and picture the costume in pleces, a short, full skirt and a blouse talled blouse that laps and Is bound about the waist with a or wool scarf, The striped border forms the llar and wide cuffs that turn back over the bishop sloeves, and a single blanket torn in half and sewed together with the border down may make the skirt Again, then something mere modish s fancled, the skiri may be gored, and the border applied afterward, and to keep it from trisking around too madly, leaden weights covered with bits of the material will be sewed all along the inside hem The cap, or toboggan toque of thick hon comb wool, is either worn jauntily on of the head or well down over the ars, The gloves may be of only heavy dogskin, but it they are of flecce-lined kid, then are added cuff tops of fur. But, of course, there must be some sort of a snug, easy bodice to go under the outside blanket' jacket, and now come we to that part of her toilt, the most fetehing of all the new skating girl's get up. She wears a sweater! It Is not one of those feminine things with laced front and girlish shapings, but a real mannish sweater with a high rolling collar. In form it is the exact prototype of her big athletic brcther's, and If the slim sister has the true fire In her veins, It will besides be embroidered over the breast with the same hiercglyphics r a close imitation—the same crossed flags and rings that, to be a “man of any consequence, Jack must now wear over his strong chest. These blanket dresses are wonderfully cheap, cos'ing complete not more than $8 or $10. As to shoes dainty skater Brother Jack. The former will closely follow his hunting shoes, which lace high up on the leg over a folded “‘bellows™ tongue, a- continuation of ther de of the eyelets, and which closes the shoe up like a riding boot. sh grain leather in black or brown avored hide; the toes being only moderately rounded, the heels flat, to make sure the grip of the best skates which are clamped on, and which are said to be the correct thing in the fce world. They are especlally adapted to fancy skating. Another skate, however, that the hiper-athletic girl is likely to adopt is one whose qualifications are long-distance and speed. These are promoted through the medium of a slender runner that projects far beyond toes and heols with dashing snow shoe effect, and that sends the skater to cutting the wind With the swiftness of a bird. But, though they are allowed, the wearer of petticoats Is advised against the new long skate; there is an arrangement of straps about the instep and ankle that is sald at times to stop circulation and produce cold feet. . And now a peep at the skating girl who is all_girl, and hasn't the least wish in the world, to ape her big brother. When next the horns of sport sound the Invited to the park you will know her by her sweet blonde head ‘and her dress of hussar blues cloth trimmed with Alaska sable. The skirt is short and full, and is bor- dered with a band of the sable, as is also the bottom of the natty round Prussian basque, ‘the throat and wrists. The basque is double-breasted, and over the front cords are draped in true hussar fashion. When the wind blows the skirt aside it will be seen that the little lady's high black boots are topped with the same fur that trims her frock. She carries a blg brown muff and wears a flerce brown beast about her throat; and cocked daintily to one side her flat, saucer-like turban of blue cloth and fir, lifts stifly up over one eyebrow a black spun-glass aigrette, Or again, look for a dainty brown-eyed maid in scarlet and black, and with a big Persian lamb cap drawn well down to the Ups of her ears, At one side of this a red bird is perched, or two scarlet quills crossed, and her muff and short round double-breasted Jacket are also Persian. The skirt of scarlet and black broadcloth I8 exceedingly novel. First, there is a to m as dress may say white, with Ay, chosen | has the arer 16th or ly w the well oy sailor ¢ top and will skates borrow our from themselves, further SKATING COSTUME., the black moderately gored and stiffencd. Over this falls a kilted second one of the scarlet, that is unshaped and lifted slightly over one knee, and that is also short enough all round to permit a view of the black lower jupe; the least movement spreads it out like a brilliant fan, Both of these last two skating costumes Rre songs of pure luxury—they are respec- tively Paquin and Ielix models—but they could easily be copied in less expensive ma- terlals, For instance, instead of the rich cloth of ithe hussar blue, flannel which s sold at one-quarter its price, could be used. and .'ny of the cheap dyed black or brown furs would make an effective garniture, Astra- khan could be substituted for Persian with the scarlet and black, or again the entire costume could be made of cloth, Or, still again, since after all it will be worn 5o little, there could be a lower skirt and jacket of black elder down flannel, that would make a rich velvety background for a kilted drapery of scarlet cashmere. NINA FITCH. LI Thork Cake. It Is not quite an elegant name for a cake, but as no one is required to adhere strictly to truth, the word “pork" can be droppsd and kirt of “fruit” substituted, which seems to be the | case a8 far as Mts palatableness is concerned. No milk, eggs or butter are required, and as the average fruit cake takes one-half dozen of eggs and a pound of butter, it means a considerable saving. It keeps well and in | me | mol | couple even city housekeepers are not above placing | it ori thelr tables. The ingredients are: Fat, salt pork ins rrants n 11 11b 1b b “Atup 11b | uissivedl O o 1 tenspoontul | da In a little hot water, Have | ded, currants picked over and | all being floured well to preven inking to the bottom. The pork must be fre of all lean and rind, and chopped till fine as lard. Add the hot r, then sugar, ses sifted flour to ke a pretty dough, three or fou full. Add it, and any desired nful of mace, cloves and tablespoonful of ginger nutmeg, cloves and cf The soda added last. Bake slowl ut two hours a moderate ove aw. Leave the pan nd then wrap up anl place for a f wesks b If beaten well inferior to the richest fruit cake for a large cak not while fruit cake with butter to about $1.25, and the one well as the oth it Hot water Dark brown folasses dan Dissolve & the raisins se citron shaved sugar ! 1\ a sift sploe AEPO jamon lay a eool cutting, baked nicely it is not | The whole 60 cents cost is over and eggs tastes almost as TOBOGGANNING Morto an Mrs. John er Own I'rivate Stid, About New York, in New Jersey, on Long sland and through the northern country general'y the tobogganing season is just com- mencing. Tuxedo carried t There D. is the place where the sport a high state of perfection. Is a slide which beautiful to survey; it appears to be about two miles from start to finish; it really is less than a quarter that length; at night it is brilliantly illuminated with electric lights. The slide is divided into several chutes, each of which is about the width of a toboggan. This ar- rangement renders steering almost unnece sary and reduces the risk of an upset other accident to a minimum. s exciting, of course—a rush, a drop, a to hold on, then a mad whiz along is THAT LONG CLIMB. the slide until the end is reached. This is tobogganing, and the fun is fast and furious! Among those members of the Tuxedo club who take kindly to tobogganing, who are, in fact, enthusiasts, are Miss Fifi Potter, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. James Brown Potter, Mrs, Fernando Yznaga, the Lords, some members of the Lorillard family, notably Mrs. T. Suffern Tailer, and the family of Mr. Lawrence Breese, The particularly interesting feature tobogganing is the club house. It is quite as important as the slide. It Is fitted up cosily and prettily; it is warm and bright, and often gay with flowers and other decora. tions; and here a jolly little supper is served for the merry coasters, with a dance to fol- low. A fancy dress party was given by the Lansdowne Toboggan club of Montreal, at which the governor general of Canada and his wife were present. Something of the same sort is in‘contemplation by a toboggan club near New ‘York. Out in Orange, the members of the Athletic club are devoted to tobogganing, and make good and constant use of their slide, which Is complete, and as nearly perfect as a slide can be, perhaps the best of any in the neigh- borhood of New York. Mr. and Mrs. Oliver Sumner Teall are among the members of this club who own sleds and tohoggan costumes, which, by the way, are always made of ga colors, in which scarlet predominates, with coquettish liltle caps for the ladies, moceasins and warm gloves. Others of the Orange elub are the Colgates, Hydes, Fairchilds, Potters and Bairds. The private toboggan slides are, one at the Rockefeller place, Terrytown, another at Mr. Levi P. Morton's, at Ellerslie, As (0 the practical side of tobogganing, the best toboggans® are made of oak or hickory, Wwith the straps of wood beveled on the under side, and finished with steel runners, These cost from $15 fo $20, and hold five people, The toboggans are of all lengths, from thres feet, Just long encugh for one small boy, to eight and a half fee: in length, the largest size made. At the Rockefeller slide all the toboggans have silver-plated trimmings, and are sup- plied with cushions made of corduroy, TABLE DECORATIONS, of Novel Idea Developed by n New York Woman at a Dinner Party. “How shall T decorate my table?’ s the Interrogation of many a hostess during the season of dinners. The empire reign has shown Itself in numerous fashionable func- tions of late, where every detail, from table linen to flowers, including china and service, has been done after the Napoleonic mode. “But," sald a hostess, known for her origin. ality, which, howeyer, never interferes with the excellence of her chef's dishes, “I am tired of the nineteenth century. I am going to introduce something less modern, I shall 80 back to the eighteenth century and deco- rate my table with colored sand, papier mache and statuettes.’ There are those who do not consider her plan advisable from an artistic standpoint, They hold that shining glass and glittering sliver on flse. napery with flowers are the only elegan accessorles for a dainty meal, But the custom of the last century has been taken up, and whether it proves satisfactory is only & question of time, The table of the clghteenth century fs this: Some mythologic scene Is represented, The palace of Circe, who metamorphosed Ulysses' companions into swine. The palace in the center of the table is made of papier mache, delicately tinted to suggest a dwelling place At each end ure ivory statuettes and small beds of colored sand, bordered deeply by roses. Others had mirrored centers b dered by bronze statueties, or long, I ferns which were reflected as in water. Sometimes hills were built of flowers, with these marble or bronze figures raised on the top. And to emphasize the woodland scene tiny trees were scattered about. Those who object to the colored sand are replacing it by arabesques of flowers, using white instead of copper-colored statuary and substituting small potted plants for the trees For instance, a feast that was recently given at a home where the dining room was admirably adapted for the purpose, is worthy of description. The room of dark, carved wood, Lad rafters almost Saxon in architeeture. The gloom of the oak floor was brightened by tawny skins of tigers and moose, and from the sides of the huge fire- place great brass sconces held lamps. It was all @ fitting background for an 18" cen- tury Qinj Holly was everywhere, for the holidays were not over, and its crimson berries glittered among the golden green “mistletoe” pearls, The table for the dinner was entirely de- nuded of linen and polished till you could see your face in it There really is no napery of our generation that could suitably be used, and I doubt if any was employed in those old days, In the center of the board was built @ palace of Pomona, from pineaples, oranges, gréen and purple grapes. The beds of colored sund were replaced by beds of fowers outhmed with young greenery. Here il th doamed marble statyet: hs ikt “chane “trou 0l Tosbioned. bous Shaped | ofl, placed on the table. | from quaintly-shaped flagons of English pat- | | any great extent lamps, where the wicks floated in perfumed The wine was served tery, and at either end of the loving cups of the same ware. This idea could be charmingly followed out for Twelfth Night, adding a great boar's head as the plece de resistance of the menu, and twelve candle sticks placed on the table six on either side. These sticks should be of iron or brass with chains, the shade omitted, and only white candles burned. As to the novelty of this feast, there would be no question MRS, ¢ table were OULD'S SUCCESSOR, Arising in New York's Social Firmament, an. 5.—(Special.) 1s and beautifal; her gowns her hats are dreams—in a word s pleturesque Late of Chicago, has not been enough in New York to become identified to with its soclal lite; but to paraphrase a line from Mrs. Browning Is touching with extreme flounce the of society, and already prophets have which predict that the lady—Mrs. Charles Yerkes—will be the next socal ‘sensation— the leader if you like, of soclety. "“ien her gowns, dinners, receptions and balls will be the talk of the town It used to be the house of Astor that ruled the fashionable life of New York; the Vane bilts followed. Just at present Mrs. G Gould s looked upon as the bright pa lar star, and her golngs and comings lieralded to the four corners of the carth. In the natural order of things she must, sooner or later, have a_successor. Wil that one be Mrs. Yerkes? Without a doubt, and that she will isfuse new life in society is another prediction. She is not only young, handsome and gracious, but is alwo liter. nd artistic, and belicves in devoting time to tudy and ‘the acquirement of accomplish- ments. She has a fine taste in art and, dis- courses charmingly and enthusiastically on the subject. The Yerkes' collection of pictures has al- ready a national reputation, and additions are constantly being made to it. The picture gallery is to be one of the most superb” rooms in the new palace which M Yerkes is now bu'lding cn upper Fifth g 3 In it will be pictures by Rembrandt, Rubens. Van Dyck, Raphael, Teniers, Boucher, Benja. min Constant, Daublgny, Bougereau, Jacque, Detaille and Jan Van Beers. One of the gems of the collection is the portrait of Mrs Yerkes herself by Van Be It is an ex- cellent likeness and a ra; beautiful pic- ture, A New Sta NEW young, YORK, charming ymphe She ies, she long, cirele arisen are Iy’ alm, Bouguereau, a special favorite of Mrs, Yerkes, s exhibited at the World's fair, where if attracted a great deal of attenlion. This icture always had the place of honor in the Yerkes' house in Chicago, where it hung fn @ room where there were no other picture It was lighted up with incandescent light the room opened from the drawing room at the rear, and the picture was hung in such 4 manner that it could be seem from the drawing room. Mrs. Yerkes' own particular boudoir—in the mew house, regardless of expense, will cost in the is room—her is being finished The decorations alone neighborhood of $25,000, ana among one of the special features ot note are the perfumed wood used for paneling in every available form. When finally com- pleted and furnished with its rare hangings, tapestries, rugs and Fremeh cabinets with Vernis Martin finish, Buhl clock and a thou- sand and one objects d'art, it will be a veritable fairy domain. Mrs. Yerkes is fond of pets and among her collection—why not a collection of pets as well as of coins or stamps for instance—is a French poodle of remarkable intelligence and sagacity. His precious coat is always cut in the latest and most improved style.of French. poodle art and he dines off silver, sleeps on down and promenades in a sealskin blanket; violets are his favorite flowers and a tiny bunch scmetimes adorns the bright lavender-hued bow which he wears, The poodle has the distinguished honor of being painted on the same canvas With his mis- tress in the Van Beers plicture, By a remarkable coincidence, the lady's favorite flowers are the same as those of her pet poodle—Parma violets—of which a profusion are always seen in her rooms at the New Netherlands hotel, where Mr. Yerkes has taken apartments until the ne house Is finished. Violets abound on all sides, the air is heavy with their perfume and usually Mrs. Yerkes wears on her corsage a mass of these fragrant blossom: uch a very mam- moth bunch indeed, that you naturally con- clude that she buys them by the bushel and wears them by the peck. Mrs. Yerkes is always perfectly BOwWnes black is popular with her a coming to her blonde beaut in a new costume nearly eve Her wardrobe includes cos ly velvets, rich satins, filmy la and magnificent furs. The lady herself h marvelous taste and perfect eye for color, A French artist of renown is in receipt of a yearly income which runs up into the thousands; it comes from Mr., Yerkes and is glven in exchange for the rare and quisite designs which he makes for Mrs. Yerkes' gowns, dresses and costumes, Costumes for the street; dresses for receptions, balls and dinners; gowns for breakfast, tea and one's boudoir, The de- slgn goes from the atalier of the French artist to the ataiier of the French dressmaker, and when finally the finished garment reaches my lady's presence it is a thing of beauty, although not a joy forever. The plece de resistance of Mrs. Yerkes' opera cloaks is one of cloth and silver lined with brocade of a shade of pink which is seldom seen anywhere but within a seashell. There Is a border of swansdown about the cloak and a clasp in wlhich sparkles a dlamond and an_ opal. Mrs, Yerkes is a blonde of pure type, with curling bronze-colored hair, a radiant skin, and large yet delicately molded features, She is unusually tall, and carries herself with extraordinary grace and dignity, ‘Waterlng House Plants. Probably more than one-half of the failures with window gardening &rise from mistakes in watering. In theory, watering is a simple operation. All that we are supposed to do is to give to our potted plants the requisjte moisture for their needs, in lieu of the rains and dews they enjoy out of doors, and are deprived of. In practice, however, this ‘re- quisite” amount calls for a &ood deal of judg- ment. Aside from certain elements absorbed from the air, all plants are fed and then growth provided for by various chemical sub- stances found in the soil and appropriated by the plant's tissues, These . substances must be first dissolved. and made diffusible by molsture, ere they.can be carried up in the form of sap. The water not only conveys this food, but is necessary in itself to Al cut the tissues, and to give necessary fluidity to the sap. Too little molsture means a shrinking and hardening of plant fiber, and a outting off of nutrition, and the plant dies of water starva- tion. Too much water means a c. ntinuous flooding of the soil, that drives out the air in the soil with its lite giving oxygen, and produces a sodden, sour atate of the earih that produces its tur1 chemical changes that are poisonous to the tender feeding roots of plants, and the plant dies of water dyspepsia. The true secret of successtal watering can be summed up in this rule of twenty worgs: Whenever plants are thirsty, glve waté¥ to reach the bottom of the pot, then wait until they are thirsty again. A drop of water ‘0 a thirsty plant is a tantalization, but to a plant already standing In molst earth, an added flood Is an aggravation, quite enough to send most plants into & At of sulks, for plants can b: sulky and contrary quite as well as hu- mans. It water Is needed at all, the whole plant craves it, and not the top roots alone, To facilitate the water reaching the bottom of the pot at each watering, nearly an inch of space (more if the pot b: a large one), should be left between the top of the soil and the rim of the pot; otherwise, the water will run off the top before enough moisture has b2en soaked in to reach the lower part of the pot. Do not be afraid of using plenty of water. Water that is promptly absorbed or that drains readily off. will hurt no growing plant. It is the stagnant water and soured soil that Injure plants, to avold which. plants once watered should have no more givey them until that i absorbed, and the soll he | commences to get dry, when the same liberal watering should be repented. There is no inflexiblé rule as to how often to water. In very el weather plants need much less water than at any other time, and in a warm room pots dry out much faster than in one kept at a moderate tem- perature; and, lastly, some plants require, and some absorb water, faster than others. | The most senseless floral rule on earth is to water every plant in the window every morning, whether fthey need it or not, as though they were rum by hydraulic clock work. The next most senseless rule 18 to give a taste of water and no more to a plant, L though what is feod to the upper roots would be poison to the lower ones. The nsible rule fs to water plants when the nt water, whether it be one pot or twent that demand it, and give enough to satisfy them, WHINMS OF GENIUS, Singers Suscoptible to the Influence of Fras grant Flowers. Reallsm discredits the romantic picture_of a diva singing in a bower of bloom, for she who aspires to be a Lind or Patti must fc the dewy violet, the enchanting mimosa and the snowy lily. Most professional singers, on agreeing to sing at drawing room musicales, insist that flowers must be conspicuous by their absence, and the abhorrence exhibited by certain artists for any heavy perfume is often dis- cussed The “mondaines’ vented from they glow swear te decorating their parlors until like a Japan spring, shrug their shoulders and murmur that this is one of the innumerable whims of the children of genfus; but on further investiga- tion this “artistic caprice’ bids fair to be proven an inconvenient fact. It is main- tained that strong perfumes undoubtedly affect the voice and that the odor of fresh flowers is more potent than their distilled nces. Some great throat specialists admit their belief in the injurious effects of perfumes FOR MORNING WEAR. upon the laryngal organs; others claim that the belief in the disastrous effects of sweet odors has been impressed upon the minds of vocalists, and that finding themselves in a perfume laden atmosphere they suffer from fear, which causes a nervous constriction of the throat. However this may be the pupils of a num- ber of foreign conservatories are not per- mitted to wear flowers or to use perfumes. The flowers that are most in disfavor with singers are those which the ungifted majority hold dearest; mimosa, violets, hyacinths, all of the fragrant bulbous tribe, tuberoses and lilies. ‘Would an artiste twine the delicate, delicious bells of the freezia in her tresses she 1s reminded: of the. bug-a-boo tale of the lovely young:singer whose lover sent her a bouquet of the tuberoses she loved; inhaling thelr perfume with rapture, she ' strove to trill out her joy—behold! her voice had left her, and she was doomed to silence for many months. Would the diva raise the dark, fragrant violets to her lips? A detaining hand stays her. She has not forgotten Mme. —, who, burying her face in a bouquet of the flowers she loved, tripped on the stage to face the critics for the first time and was unable to utter a note. Upon consulting a number of singers T find that many of them refuse to have flowers about them at all, saying that they do not sing easily in a perfumed atmosphere; others, again, state that they have given the matter no thought and have suffered no incon- venience, Most throat specialists agree, however, that strong perfumes are injurious to the larynx. All of this goes to prove with how much consideration must be treated the throat that wins the golden ducats; for the possessor of it must never know extremes of heat and cold, must not have even a bowing ac- quaintance with wine or highly spiced foods and must never regard the “‘rose upon her balcony” as blooming for her. Considering these accompaniments to ‘the success of prima donnas the discontented aspirants may do well to thank heaven for the “golden gift of mediocrity.’” Charming Caps for Modest Heads. Caps that-adorn the heads of women on the shady side of 50 are lovely in design this winter. Their shapes have altered somewhat, perhaps in concession to the fashionable Eng- lish bonnet that clings far back on the colffure and droops over the knot. The new caps adept that droop. They are built on a crescent of crinoline carried back to a point, and fall almost to the nape of the neck, obtaining a less sprightly, but more graceful efect than for- merly. Point desprit s the favorite material out hich to fashion them. It bears *doing better than other laces, and has more freshness. A new web lace brought over from France is adaptable for the very dressy ones. It represents as nearly as art can a ity bit of cobweb caught on the head, whose divisions are outlined with narrow rib- ben. It is most effective, These caps are the easlest of headgear to fashion at home, Some of the ultra stylish affairs for morning wear are made of hand- kerchiefs, Fine linen with a bit of narrow lace rolled on by hand, daintily embroidered ones with scalloped edges, even sheer musiin with tiny do's (o) fieur-de-lis In color, are used. 1 saw some that agere most artistic in this variety displayed imta; Broadway. linen store, The foundation wassthe useful half-moon of UMt muslin, .4 ruchtng of d'esprit lace laid on to soften the fageiline, The bandkerchief Was put on in a jabot, 1he extreme point fall- ing over the knot of hair at the meck, and bunches of baby ritben:in palest colors orna- mented it, Others have: fours'full plaitings of point d'esprit about a tam o’ cbanter of fine muslin, with @ broad, flat bew b front. A crisp little one of rose plaited lace)hws a stiff pom-pom In front with a bow of Mheliotrope velvet, one loop standing erect, #he other falling to the back. A very few have the ubiquitous buckle, A who have been_ thus pre- | spoiled | small rhinestone crescent fastens a flat bow of pink velvet, two tiny gold circles form the base for a couple of narrow ribbon rcesttes | However, when an ornament is used on a cap, it Is generally conceded that the occa- sion of its wearing should be of much for- mality, lon Notes. Moire silk petticoats lined with horse hair | are worn to keep the voluminous dress skirts | well flared out at the bottom. Tea balls of Dresden china are newer than | those of silver. They can be had, if liked, | mounted on a silver standard. Metalasse, a material much in vdgue a fow | 0, 18 again coming to the fore, but 8 produced only in two shades—navy blue and black. Dashing capes for wear at the theater are red perforated cl over black moire With garniture of black ostrich feather of silk bands A charming gown for evening wear is of maize colored satin with a bertha of soft lace | The skirt s encircled with bands of helo- | trope velvet. Velvet ribbon in enormous quantities and in a va Ly of colorings and rich effects will be | used for decorating spring gowns for both day and evening wear. Some of the flowered gauze ribbons for millinery uses will have as a finish a narrow bordering of Velvet on | each side. The evening gowns are One s of black velvet with an embroidery of £old. The bertha is of white chiffon. An- | other s of pale pink moire with white lace, A pretty costume for a girl of 10 for ordinary wear is made of blue s with a shirt, coat and vest trimmed with bands of White cloth. The revers are faced with White and white pearl buttons trim the fronts, A styllsh waist for a cream satin skirt trimmed around the bottom with sable tails Is made of turquolse-blue satin, draped with Ivory open-work cloth, made elegant by an applique of steel and turquoise, A picturesque evening cloak for a little maid Is a large, full cape of fleecy blue cloth warmly lined, and finished at the neck with a hood shaped like a jelly bag, lined with white silk and edged with white fur, Cheviot, camel's hair and tweed, of both English and Scotch manufacture, will still be utilized for smart tailor-made gowns, being especially adapted to the artistic de- velopment of plain, straight style Sample cards of spring goods show, among other attractive mate: Persian suitings that in appearance are similar to the high- priced checked cheviots and silk and wool novelty fabrics from foreign looms. The latest novelty in millinery is the pic- turesque hat called the ““Dane,” whose broad brim s woven from narrow velvet ribbon in- termixed with moire of the same width. The crown s of velvet, the garniture consisting of flowers and feathe “Silk-warp Trilby” is the name of a very pretty material to be used for next season’s street and traveling costumes. It is in Jacquard effects, and in evening colors the tints are as delicate and handsome as silks costing nearly double the price. The “Bengaline Lansdowne,” which will be placed upon the market next season, re- sembles the all-silk bengaline so long popu- lar, except that the cord in the new makes is not so pronounced. It will be used for entire costumes, and also for accessories. It is rumored that green will become more and more fashionable as the season advances, and to accord with popular taste emeralds will be the favored gems. Any kind of Jewelry that is quaint and old, and harmon- izes with the color of the toilette is consid- ered the mode. Paris creations. Feminino Notes. Mme. Casimir-Perier, wife of the president of France, has organized a crusade against the use of birds' breasts and wings for decorative purposes. The Kansas State Grange passed strong resolutions at its recent annual meeting in favor of woman suffrage and elected women to six of its thirteen offices. The duchess of York spends her leisure time in winter in making clothes for the poor. She fs so deeply interested in her charitable work that she has little time for amusements, | has a positive and direct action on the causes Vital Statistics Show that 30 per cent, of all deaths which occurred in this country last year resulted from diseases of the throat, chest and lungs, Why was this? Simply because, in many in= stances, the victims were negligent and did not realize their dangerous condition, and in others the proper remedy was not nployed. The frightful mortality resulting from these dis- |eases can be largely reduced, provided precaution is exercised |and the right remedy used, Ozomulsion TRADE MARK will cure these diseases if taken in time and as directed. Iy which produce them. It is unlike any other preparation in this respect. It is a scientific preparation of Ozone, Guatacol and Cod Liver Oil. It has proven its worth by restoring to perfect health thousands of patients who had "been given up as lost, They are alive today, willing witnesses to its marvelous power over these very common, every-day disorders. /% is the kind Physicians preserite for Colds, Coughs, Consumption, La Grippe and all Puimonary Complaints, Scrofula, General Debility, Anaemia, Loss of Flesh and all W. ting Discases, T EILT & Co, 15th and Douglas Sts,, OMAHA. Cash is Money Good Credit is a Perfect Substituts, ) We are delighted to sell you goods for either Cash of > Credit. Cash, of course, NEED3 no Guarantee, T3HE IN TEGRITY OF OUR WAGE EARNERS and our faith that the West offers them steady employment, 18 SUFFICIENT GUARANTEE to us of their credit, especially when that credit is employed in Furnishing their Homes, 8o, whether you drive in a Coach-and-four; own a Yacht are behind a Counter; wield a pen; drive an Express Wagon; are a Freight-Handler, or what not,—only assuming that you have some regular occupation—we want and appreciate your Patronage, and are glad to extend to you our MAGNIp CENT CREDIT SYSTEM, with the numerous other advan tages which we possess in furnishing your homes complete, These are our Terms. $10 worth of goods, $1 per week or $4 per month. $25 worth of goods, $1.50 per week or $6 a month $50 worth of goods, $2 per week or $8 per month $75 worth of goods, $2.50 per week or $10 per month $100 worth of goods, $3 per week or $12 per month The prize offered by the Chicago Woman's club for the best research work in the natural sclences done by a woman in_the Chicago university has been awarded to Miss Elizabeth Cook, fellow in physiology. Another American woman has become an English countess. This lady, who was Miss Corbin, married Mr. Walpole, nephew of the earl of Oxford, and the earl having lately died, leaving only two daughters, the title &oes to his nephew, The women of France have raised 300,000 frangs ($60,000) for a memorial to the late President Carnot. Mme. Carnot has ex- pressed a wish that the sum may be applied to the rellef of poor widows with children, the Academy of Moral Science to distribute the said sum. Lady Wilde, mother of the aesthetic and poetic Oscar, is a_suffragist. Though no lorger young, according to years, for she is past 70, her mind goes on untiringly. Her latest endeavor has been to secure for women titles similar to those conferred upon men as_recognition for deeds performed or for personal merit. Lady Wilde lectures for woman’s rights. Rumor |s constantly remarrying Mrs. Nel- lie Grant Sartoris. Last summer the brid groom selected by gossip was General H. K. Douglas of Maryland, but the notion of the alliance has been dropped by the newsmongers in favor of one beiween Mrs. Sartorls and Frank H. Jones of Illinois, first assistant postmaster general. Mrs. Sartorls, it seems to be accepted, is too attractive a woman to be left in widowhood, Miss Jean Day of Boston is a skilled plano tuner. This young Jady is meeting with the opposition which a woman always encounters in_entering upon a novel line of work, but she has given complete satisfaction to those who have committed their pianos to her care. Miss Day was being educated as a musiclan and showed great promise, but was compelled to quit her studies owing to the partial fail- ure of her eyesight. Isabella Beecher Hooker, one of the women foremost in progressive lines of thought and work, is the late Henry Ward Beecher's sis- ter, She Is .1 ardent suffragist, and though past 76, spends much of her time writing and lecturing for the advancement of the cause dear to her. She spent the past summer in her country home near Hartford, Conn., en- tertaining guests and working as usual, Miss Sibyl Carter is living quietly in St. Paul in the intervals of her itinerancy. She is the apostle of progress among the Indian women of the northwest. This missionary some years ago returned to America from China, determined to devote herself to the civilizing and Chrisiianizing of our aboriginal women by means of feminine work. She taught them to make lace. They showed re- markable capability and fondness for the art, and so artistic and beautiful is their werk # is In great demand wherever It is exhibited, LAl What Cashiers Have to Staud. Somerville Journal: Bank Cashier—I have no doub!, madam, that you are the person to whom this check is made payable, but in ac- cordance with the rules of the bank I shall have to require you to be identified, Indignant Lady—I have no doubt, sir, that you are a thorough gentleman, but under the circumstances I should require some undis- puted evidence of it before believing it. It is surprising how cheap those two-pound pack- ages of Quaker Oats are sold! Cost little, if more than oatmeal—infinitely better. Sold only in 2 Ib, Packages. ! any, i 8125 worth of goods, $3.50 per week or $14 per month $150 worth of goods, $4 per week or $16 per month $200 worth of goods, $5 per week or $20 per month $250 worth of goods, $6 per week or $25 per month In Our Stove Department Base Burners Oak Stoves..... Cannon Stoves, Parlor Cooks...... . cees ... 811.45; worth §25.00 86.25; worth $15.00 ..83.45: worth $7.50 .88.48; worth . Very Special .45¢; worth 5o .34¢; worth 600 ..45¢; worth $1.00 19¢; worth 50¢ All Wool Ingrains..... Heavy Union Ingrains. Tapestry Brussels, Good Window Shades. ........ EBEXTRA Hardwood Chamber Suits. . Good Bedsteads. ..... Parlor Suits, Rockers. Oak Center Couches. ....810.45; worth $22.50 -81.75: worth $3.50 .829.75; worth $50.00 .81.75; worth $3.50 81.25; worth $3.00 86.00; worth $12.00 . OPEN MONDAY AND Saturday EVENINGS ONLY. OREGON WEATHER FOR JANUARY Average at Portland, Oregon, for the Past 22 Years. (From Government Weather Bureau Records.) MEAN AVERAGE TEMPERATURE THE MONTH FOR THE WHOLE Of | pay the grocer's bill for the whole familg, L YEARS, 8 DEGREES, OF THE 22| The editor of the Morning Oregoniun, who has lived there forty years, writes of it a8 AVERAGE TEMPERATUR) follows in his paper of December 26: WARMEST JANUARY FOR 22 YEARS, 43 They who louk upon Oregon now cane DEGREES, t but be charmed. Never wus Oregol AVERAGE TEMPERATURE OF THE | more attractive. The sam. be said’ of COMDEET JANUARY FOR 22 YEARS, 2 | all our Pacific’ mates, W having & JEGR EXTREME HIGHES1 winter. Nature {5 making amends for TH TEMPERA Mstakes of man. The tides of humam TURE REGISTERED IN ANY HOUR OF }life come and go; there ave ups and downg ANY JANUARY DAY FOR 22 YEARS, 62| in business, but is alwiys right, DEGREES, It s the same that THE TREME LOWEST was the objec TURE REGISTERED ON TH DAY OR NIGHT DURING THFE 2DRGER O, 8 ABOV b I* DAYS OF THE WHICH E_BUN BHONE WERE CLOUDS DUR AT NIGHT, b, ® CLOUDY OR WHICH UARY DURING OF DAYS OF JANUARY ¥ *ON WHICH ONE OF AN INCH OR L AT SOME TIME R 8, 19 RAINFALL CHE No one who Every newcomer, climate, in a e of all resourc Alr, scene molntain ranges, n it can ever lea noting such ntry 8o productive, so full . 18 surprised and délighteds ter' courses, dscipe : O cry of our forests, contribute’ to po; every beholder, and they have live here” all their lives still 1ok upon all thess. things with the delight of a youhtul lover, Yet there s no intoxicaiion in raptures, no enthuslasm, no exces geration. 'This simply 18 the country fop Which nature has done more thai any othes on the earth, and they who ki'w Oregom ¥ Orcgonlan fecls that ‘war and yoi will If you take advantag 4{ -‘)\u ".ur “flll K0 there a k with hials the ot in climate of drouths and uncertanties. Yours Truly, BTLARNS FRUIT LAND 00, 0 Bee Lullding, IN FOR 22 | MORE OF DURING 4 FOR THE 7.60 1> Now, we who kuow contend that this is proof of the finest climate on earth. Where the worst, coldest and stormiest month of the year makes such a showing as {he above the saving (i the fuel bill dlone will