Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, December 23, 1894, Page 20

A £ 5 e S ——— THE OMAIIA" DAILY BEE LATEST IN FRENCH FASHIONS Exquisite Tea Gowns, Breakfast Gowns and Novelties in Trimming. A MELANGE OF VELVET, FUR AND LACE Some Splendid Effocts Which Can Be Pro- daced from Inexpensive Matorials with the Addition of a Little Good Taste. PARIS, Dec. 22.—(Spectal)—The tea gowns worn by French women are a melange of velvet, silk mousseline, fur and lace; they are a vehicle for colors richer than dress shows, and they aro a fascinating con- Junction of the prevailing style of other gowns, with the charms of the neglige. This specles of afternoon dress came across the channel, but has been modified. French women do not, like English, go in for long lines and dignity, nor at present for the skirt in a long-tajled queue; calla lily effects are not to their taste. They break up the lines and sct frou frou effects beside solemn ones, and where the idea was stateliness they produce the piquant, or as one might say, something typified by the fringed gentian, The French gown falls loose in front and back and clings to the figure at the sides; the skirt is a little long, but cannot be said to train as it makes a round outline on the floor; the shoulders are as wide as those of other gowns, and the sleeves, unlike the English “plcture sleeves,” copied from Italian canvas, are the matchless gigot, whose virtues I have aforctimes celebrated here. ADMIRABLE MODELS, Several models divide the favor. One Is &n outer robe open down the front and open down the back over an inner robe, so that it has the effect of being in two pleces, the open space down front and back, some six or more inches wide. It Is fitted close at the sldes, and the front and back edges are Toose, as they would b2 without darts, letting the full plaited inner robe fall freely out. Behind the inner robe forms a watteau and in front hangs loose or else is crossed by a belt over which It falls with an effect of a blouse. Sometimes the outside robe is bigh-necked and sometimes it is low with a Wide collar turned over round the shoulders, The collar In this case is In two scctions, like the robe, as it does not cross the back. The material is rich and heavy for the outer portion, as velyet or gros grain, and for the inside something more delicate. To fllustrate this idea can be happily olted a gown made for the trousseau of the new princess M—, whose wedding presents, valued at countless francs, have been the talk of Paris this week. It Is of heliotrope velvet, bordered all around with sable, open over an inner robe of helfotrope silk, dec- ‘orated a jour over yellow. The high neck- band is velvet with fur on the edge and the front is belted to form a bouffant blouse. Another is of pompadour silk in large bouquets, where red dominates on a ground of gray, decollete over a high inner robe of accordeon plaited mousseline de sole, gray over rose. The wide shoulder collar is coy- ered with cream guipure over rose, and all the edges are bordered with fur. This model is varied by closing the back and making a watteau plait in the velvet. The effect |s particularly good when the plait falls from under the wide collar of a decollete. 1 have seen a very beautiful one of deep violet velvet over an inner robe of gray silk, on which were appliques of cream lace. In each corner of the velyet skirt at the foot and in each corner of the collar was also a lace applique. Another style of gown dispenses with the inner robe and closes up to the throat in one plece. It has the same fullness at back and front, which may be In box on side plaits or gathers, and the same clinging at the sides, Which may be by plain fitting or by appliqu- ing a full outside down onto a close lining With passementerie. Such a gown of Nile green velvet has a half corselet under the Arms, reaching from the fullness of the front round to that of the back, in Oriental colors and mock emeralds. Another one of white oloth has a similar corselet In green and gold. Still another design has the front and back in two pieces and decollete over a high under robe, that is seen down the sides, The front t. loose and the back has a watteau. The two leces are bordered and may be embroldered all round. A superb gown made by Rouff Ts of decp yellow velvet embroidered with seed polarll over pale yellow plaited mousseline de sole. These effects can be produced with* Inex- pensive materials just as well as with the rich ones quoted. ~ Velveteen, cloth, crepon, flannel, will make beautiful gowns with the ald of a little taste, NEW TRIMMINGS, The new ornamentation, called a jour, so popular, needs a word of description. It #eems to have no equivalent name in English It is an all-over pattern stamped out to leave the material piercid with holes. The fabric thus eut s laid over another color, which is seen through the holes, and the result is an When the materi; cloth, these patterns may have the edge left raw, but in the case + © of a soft material, like foulard, the edges are button-holed. There are to b had in the shops some silks cloths thus ready cut, particularly black, ,,*.‘ nebt has become s0 much the g other | enable the amateur to do it at hom: tle stamping machines have been invented, fur- nishing a great variety of patterns; they cost very little and are as easily handled as a pinking machine. Another new idea Is to cut patterns out of lace and applique them on the gown to fill all sorts of spaces. Thus the velvet tea gown cited above, which has a triangular lace fig- ure filling each corner of the front This ruthless cutting up of lace might easily be made expensive, but cheap laces can be used with almost as much effect as costly ones, Coarse guipures are available for this purpose and Imitations of various point laces. Such amateur made trimmings have more beauty than the ready made ones supplied by the manufacturers, To illustrate the uee of these trimmings is a house gown made with a blouse of dahlia silk and a skirt of dahlia velvet. The blouse s the front and sleeves stamped out a jour over cream, and the edges button-holed. The skirt has each side laid over in a deep plait towards the front and the front breadth so framed in has a trlangular applique of cream lace In each of the lower corners. Another ekirt for a house dress has two bands of trim- ming down the middle of the front breadth that turn at the bottom cach way and pass round the skirt. This leaves two corners at the foot that are filled with lace appliques, BREAKFAST NEGLIC Morning gowns are made of an elderdown woven wool with outer surface of silk ap- parently quiited. I do not know the name of this adorable material, but believe it is available everywhere and inexpensive. With the collar and revers, and even the length of the loose double-breasted front, faced with long-haired white Persian lamb, the effect is ravishing. Or it may be faced \\Il!| a contrasting color of silk.” A yellow one with ow edges of sable would be a suc are made of flannel also, the front reasted and loose, the back loose and flowing, and the sides close, as in the tea gown. They are button-holed with a pat- tern of large palm or oak leaves, laid di- agonally, one after another, round the edge, the leal half off and half on, making a large scallop. Instead of this embroidery they may be faced with flannel of another color. Th are also made with a species of wing dra- pery that is plaited over the shoulder and falls long down the back. This is effective when lined with a contrasting color, Another style of gown suitable for wear all day in the house is made after the Bernhardt manner. It is all in one piece, the front hanging loose and gathered from a yoke, and the back, a bodice to which the godeted skirt back is gathered on. Make this in seal brown velveteen, and round the walst put a gilt link belt with enamelled or mock jeweled bosses that fall loose and low in front, lace the close part of the sleeve up to the elbow on the inside seam and let the sleeve be long on the hand, and make a high collar that turns over all the way round, only let the points come under the hair behind, the collar being turned round to open at the back, and pull the closed front, which flares a little, up high against the chin like a hood. Or make # in electric blue. It will be charming cither way. ADA JONES, The Noblest Coin of AlL Few people are perhaps aware that the small issue of the Isabella coin recently minted by order of the congress of the United States, at the request of the board of lady managers, is intended to commemorate the fact that a board of women was, for the first time, in the Columbian exposition, and also to called by the government to take official part honor the great Queen Isabella, whose por- trait it bears. It is likewise Intended that the profit realized from the sale of this coin shall be funded and the interest employed to effect permanent service to humanity, thss leaving a perpetual benefit resulting from the action of the first board of women authorized by the government. The price of the coin is $1, and orders can be addressed to the Merchants Loan and Trust company, Chicago, which acts as agents of the board in the sale. In many schools and state fairs the Tsa- bella coin is belng used for prizes, or tokens of commendation. These coins are also used for Christmas gifts, as charms for watch chains, for lace and scarf pins, and linked together to form belts, etc. ~ More than half the issue has already been ab- sorbed without any advertising whatever, and as the coin becomes scarcer its value 1§ in- creased, Collectors from every country are sending for it, as no collection is complete without one of this unusual issue recently struck by the United States treasury, which intended that it should be the most beautiful coin ever issued by the United States govern- ment, Fushion Notes. “Brownie” toques are shown for children and are fmmensely popular. Even small women in sealskin wraps with balloon slecves will look “impressive.” For general wear for children of both sexes buttoned shoes are most desirable. Green velvet walsts, with skirts of violet cloth, are among novel French caprices in winter gowns. A novelty In woolen fabrics is woven in open squares in imitation of the perforated cloths and velvets. High felt shoes lined with lamb's wool and edged with fur are worn for driving in very cold weather. Zibeline, a soft woolen fabric, made from goats' hair, is an especially desizable material for tailor costumes and coats. A moderate French heel is preferred for evening and house shoes, but the broader English heel for walking boots. The clothes of a Japanese lady, even of the highest rank, are home-made, and handed down from generation to generation. Pelerine collarettes of chiffon or mousseline de sole, with long floating ends, are tasteful adjuncte for house frocks or dinner gowns. Watches just at present are considered de- lightful wedding presents. They are seen simulating all manner of flowers suspended from a pin by a short chain. Large roses of satin antique are used to outline the round necks of decollete corsages. Women with comely necks and shoulders are quick to grasp the artistic possibilities of this mode, An effective way to trim a gored skirt s to cover each seam to the depth of about half a yard with Vandykes in cut jet, the points going upward from the bottom of the skirt, Lustrous corded silks are now in great use, dark green, golden brown, and the rich fruif shades prevail for dressy day costumes, and for evening tollets Persian mauve, bluet-blue, Engl sh pink, and cerise are the favorites, One of the fayorite colors this season is a warm purple shade with an admixture of faint pink, exactly the tint which a few years since was called puce, and proved such a be- coming background to those who rtejoiced in golden locks and a clear complexion, When a paper tears off or wears off of your Japanese screen, the frame is still the foundation of another quite different. Paint it wth some enamel paint of any tint you prefer, and make it elegant with brocade, or more simple with pretty cretonne, A novelty just imported is the evening coat, which may be worn both outside in and n- side out. It is made of rich brocade and lined and hemmed with fur. A dazzling garment of this description {s made of heliotrope and gold brocade, trimmed with Hudson bay sable. Sealskin and velvet tion. Half of each is used in the muff, with flowers, either a single rose or a handsome bunch of a favorite flower of the wearer on the top. The head and tail of the animal appear on the front of the small fur muff, In very elegant muffs the eyes of the animal are’ precious stones. The blouse front grows in popularity, and many of the most stylish frocks are made :n this way. Slender women affect this style because thelr figures obtain better propor- tions and the stouter women disguise their is another combina- embonpoint. The blouse fs confined to the front of the corsage and is effected by ad- justing the drapery loosely, Feminue Notes A daughter of Hall Caine, the novelist, is an actress of considerable merlt, She is now tour ng In ““The Masqueraders.” Mrs. Willam Waldorf Astor has sccured a diamond comb, said to have been presented to Mme. de Mentespan by Louls Quatorze. The Princess of Wales is 50 years old, and retains her beauty in spite of many ill and the troubles she has been compelled to bear. Only a few months ago accounts reached England of the shooting of a large tiger by the mabarani of Patiala, who will be better known under her malden name of Florrie Bryan. B. V. GIANNINI. ff Ped. 3| 2ed. Fed. — | 'fi'*— fuba—2 | CHARMING CHRISTMAS FROCKS Some Bewitching Costumes Will Make Their Appearance on That Day. CREATIONS FOR BLONDES AND BRUNETTES All Styles of Bseanty Provided For In the Latest Fashlon Modes—Desoription of n Lovely Confection from Paris, NEW YORK, Dec. 22.—(Special.)—Along with other Christmas hymns certalnly the ol of clothes may bs IFor if Christmas comes but once a year, so also do many of those hearty holiday ex= Dand ngs that distinguish it; and in a frock— Lo put the matter in a nutshell—not made for the occasion, no girl's heart can be expected to breathe peace and good will toward man demanded by the blessed Yule time, Where o, then, it behooves ou, If only in the ise of charity, to look well to your Christn gown Se it, too, that fts not 0 fine as to make it after dinner frolicking, lie a dead weight on your mind d If you wish to reflect ono of the daintiest whims of fashion trim your bodice with yellow lace A PARIS CONFECTION, Be you blonde, one of the tall, pale, lily sort, here is a dress that will suit you for both dinner and dance. It is shown in the design whose skirt gores are outlined with narrow ruching, which ‘s made of yellow valenciennes lace, the ather materials belng Nile green satin under mousseline de sole of tie same shade. Substitute for th's perisha able drapery—a Parisian fancy, of course— whi Swiss, the ve sheerest to be had, and for the satin and lace figured Nila green chine silk, and imitation valenciennes colored with coffee to a pale yellow, and see the result. Begin by mak!ng an entire gown of the chine silk. Hang over the stiffly flared skirt Vith organ pipe back a second one of the Swiss in twelve umbrella g cach one of wkich is outlined with a tiny lace ruching. At each side of the front gore there is a stcond outlining of the lace fashioned Into DUfls to form an infant robe effect. In the same way as the skirt a round baby bodice is first made of the chine & 1k, up to putting the slecves in and the deep cape collar on. Over this gather the Swiss full at the back, letting it drop at the wast in front in a4 slightly blouse éMect. The “cape collar has a foundation of stife bobbinet, which is coversd with close up and down rows of the narrow lace ruching to form a ruffled surface, I'rom the arm hole inside the sleeves come two long loops of the lace inscrtion sewed together " in four-inch strips; these loop around the arm at the bottom of the sleeve and continue back to the armhole, dragging the slceves up short at the inside, and leay- Ing it in a long puff at the outer lne. Finally, this adorable rig can be finished with a belt, that could almost make the Christmas bells themselves ring out with joy, ANOTHER LOVELY FROCK. At each side of an Inch wide band of White satin sew two the same width of Nile green Persian embroidery; have this, if pos- sible, worked in white lotos flowers and finish it at the side front with a loose bow: of white satin ribbon. All this done, your Christmas gown, made after an exquisite Douceb model, will cost but §25. And if, as it waltzes under the mistletoe's shade, it fs not caught and proposed to on the spot, it will be because heaven has predestined it to wither on the maiden bough. The next gown, a Felix creation of pompa~ dour brocade and chiffon, would well become the dark beauty of a brunctte. The skirt, with its front arranged in side pleats that flare out at the foot, is of a tea mauve shade scattered with magenta roses. The lining is gros grain silk in a rich orange. It is slightly trained, and the fullness at the top back is held in place by hip shirrings that form a triangle, The bodice is in chiffons. that shade all the way from palest pink to deepest magenta. The shoulder knot is of velvet flowers toned in the same way, and over the huge bow of deep magenta chiffon that forms the outside of the sleeve s a scarf of the pale pink that holds it down at the center from shoulder to cuff edge. RINGING CHANGE! If the combinations here given are not liked, other colors and materials could be. substituted, For example, delightful and be~ coming effects can be made with yellow and violot. It economy fs to be considered, make the skirt of yellow chine silk flowered with knots of violets; have also a corsage fringe or shoulder knots of these—real violets in the last instance—and make the bodice of yellow mousseline de sofe. Anenchanting Christmas gown for a chataine maid has a skirt of orchid pink velvet and a baby bodice of chiffon, The bertha of tabs shown in the design is of yellow Venetian lace ecdging sewed square over bobbinet. The coffee-dyed vals enclennes might casily substitute this rich lace; and when expense s of further con= sideration, the skirt could be of liberty vel- veteen. Though, of course, when this is used, it would need to be heavily lined and interlined to give it the properly stately aly a velvet skirt requires. NINA FITCH. ing! materials in any possible aro Copyright, 1894, by TiE NEW YORK MUSICAL RECORD CO, o pem— patented an effectual fastener for the placquet hole in women’s gowns. She has nvented and put upon the market about thirty use- ful articles, Lady Carlisle is training a staff of women to take charge of her Castle Howard estates in Yorkshire, She is tired of men as stew- ards and caretakers, it is sald. The experi- ment will be watched with interest, A lady bleyclist of Sydney, Mrs, E. A, Maddock, in company with her husband, has just taken a 600-mile epin, covering the distance in nine days. The road was over mountains, swamps, corduroy tracks, creeks, sandy plains and other rough roads. Another case of typhold, contracted from eating raw oysters, is reported, this one from London, ‘where, it s said, one of our countrywomen, Mrs, Naylor-Leland, formerly Miss Jennie Chamberlain, is i1l from the dis- ease, and the infection Is traced Jo the bivalves. Mary Fairing, a colored woman of Ala- bama, urgently requested to be sent to the Dark Continent, saying that all her life it had been her ambition to carry the gospel to her people. When Informed that the Presbyterian board lacked the money re- quired to pay her passage ($400), she sold her little home in Talladega and went at her own cost, Lady Florence Dixle, the English writer and woman with convictions, has certainly the courage of thems In a set of “‘Confes- sions” which she filled out for a London paper she frankly replles to the question, “What is your favorite story?’—'My own, because it alone reflects my {deas,” -More authors may feel that way, but not many calmly announce it, A woman who is noted among her friends for the delicious coffee invariably served at her table, ascribes its excellence to.the sim- ple act of heating the dry coffee. The ground berry is put in a hot coffea and set on the range to heat through before the water is added. In this way, «he says, the oll of the coffee is generated, and the very best flavor 1s obtained, “if,” ghe adds, ‘“‘your coffee is choice to begin with.” Mrs. M. L. Harrison of San Francisco is the manager of the women's department of the Pacific States Life Insurance company Mrs. Harrison has two large rooms fitted up in the Japanese style, and receives her agents there. She s a capable business .woman, and full of tact. She has a great desk brist- ling with documents and pamphlets, and it is said that «he can inspire her women agents with enthusiasm as easily as she can write a policy. . —_— A Baby Launches & War Ship. At Chiswick, England, the Ardent, torpe- do boat destroyer, was launched “recently from the yard of Messrs. Thornyeroft & Co. The Ardent Is a sister ship to the D a sea in June last, and, like her, is fitted with the Thornycroft water tube boilers. The vessel was named by Mrs. C. J. Cornish, eldest daughter of Mr. J. I Thornycroft. and launched by Miss Esther Phyllis Cor- nish, aged 6 months, A touch of the baby's hand on a speclally designed electrical ap- paratus started the vessel on the ways, whence she glided into the river with all her engines and machinery on board. The Ardent is armed with one 12-pounder and three G-pounder quick-firing guns, Her contract speed Is twenty-seven knots, —————— WHERE WAS MRS, ALDRICH? Thomas Bailey Aldrich, The night, the place, the hour—they all Were full of subtie blandishment, o pe of blended fire and snow! Zach clime to her some spell had lent— The north her cold, the south her glow, Her languors all 'the Orient. Her scarf was of the cloudy fleece The mcon draws round its love That 0 its beauty may increase The more in being seen the less, And as she moved, and seemed to float— So floats a swan!—in sweet unrest, A_string of sequins at her throat Went clink and clink against h And what did some sly fairy do But set a mole, a golden dot Close to her lip-to pierce men through! How could I look and love her not? —~— CONNUBIALITIES, ness, breast. Uncle John White of Rhea, Calloway county, Ky, who is more than 100 years of age, is looking for his seventh wife. O1d Income—Young man, if my daughter married you she would starve to death. Young Cheeky—Surely you would not let us do that, . gravers have noticed that when a young woman whom everybady has set down for an old maid finally gets married she is more fussy than anybody else about her wedding cards. 80 you want to marry my son?" said the stern mamma to thel emancipated woman “1 do." “Can you support him in the man- ner In which he has been accustomed?" “I can.” “Then také him and be happy.” “Honestly, now, @id you ever know of any one dying of a: broken heart?’ I think 1 did know!of one case. Stll, I must admit that it didn’t happen uatll after she had lost the.bredch of promise suit.” “Algernon, in parliementary usage, what does the presiding ofider say when a matter 18 to be put to a vote? asked artful Amy “‘Are you ready for/the question,’” said the nsuspecting Algernon. yes, Algernon, I think I am quite ready, A Brooklyn laundryman, Hop Gee, has just taken unto himself a German girl for a the case 'found love had not played as impor- fant a role in the marriage as business, Hop Gee had a rival, Charley Hing by name, who kept a laundry a short distance from Hop, and who a few weeks ago married a Brook- Iyn girl “just to bling more customers and ‘folly’ Hop Gee.” It is natural to suppose that Hop Gee is doing all the Charley Hing Just now, Among the passengers on the ill-fated race train which was wrecked while returning to Brooklyn on Suburban day, 1863, was Willlam Haring, 40 years old, formerly a conductor of the Pennsylvania railroad. He was feeling very happy on the way back from the Sheeps- head Bay race track, for he had backed the Suburban winner, Lowlander, and had won a small fortune. ‘When the wreck occurred Haring was caught under a derailed car and was 0 badly crushed that it was necessary to amputate both Tegs. His sweetheart, Mrs, Annie E, Parsells of Brooklyn, nursed him at the Seney hospital for fourteen weeks, The couple were to have been married a few days after the accident took place, but the wedding was, of course, called oft. Mr. Har- ing said nothing furthier on the subject of matrimony at the time. He had artificlal limbs made, however, and for the past few months he has been enabled to make excel- lent use of them. He devoted cons'derable time In prosecuting the Long Island rail road, and recently the company scttled the case out of court for $30,000. Last week Mr. Haring called on his faithful sweetheart and popped the question. He was accepted, and the marriage took place last Wedneslay even- am lighted up; me through the town. the day branch within me sways, when, a gay young twig, SONG OF THE TREE. Tom Masson In Life, 1 am a tree, a Christmas tree how merry do T feel, to think of what 1 used to be, it makes me fairly peal with laughter to reflect that 1 have grown, since 1 have come from Nature's haunts beneath the sky, to bear up Johnny's drum; carry'candy on my back, and pop balls galore, and many another fine knick-knack from Santa. ( sto With candles 1 with presents loaded down, and o to me fill up the cup and toast This Is my day of all I tremble with delight, and every for I am doing "Tis true my load is heavier than 1 fluttered with my brother fir and thought myself quite big. But no one knows what happiness, my sister and my brothers, can b obtiined ungought unless yoi've done some £00d to other: nd 50 al- though a heavy load 1'm bearing up today, I feel 80 good that 1'll be blo I'd like “to float away to some land where there Is no past and where the children will me. let Christm a s last for- and foreve right ever Next Time You Go To Market, Remember there Quaker Oats, is none Good for little folks—Dbig folks, too. just as good as” Sold only in 2 Ib. Packages. B Mme, Yale's Complexion and Health Remedies Sold by all Druggists, Highest Honors From World's Faip Endorsed by Congress, Mme. Yale's Headquarters, 146 State st., Chicago. 7 THADE MARK £ Ar0Old'S Bioii-teiery, Bplendid ourative it for Nopvous or Blck ol il agy Noasatiis: Lsef) il G ianes itoriers Atk bovnine" Anwiat: o it et ecomm. P, o Horvescent: THE ARNOLD CHEMICAL €O, 161 8. Western Avenue, CHICAGD,. C