Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, December 2, 1894, Page 10

Bpan Silk Mak, MOURNING FASRIONS, a Charming Vell, Crepon Correet Gown, Lynx with Mourning Garb. Nowbere 1s the tale of fashion better told than by the well-dressed passer-by, and in this way it I8 now made manifest—that the widow's cap Is partially tabooed, “Very young women no longer seem to be wearing them. They are considered bad form, as calculated in fact to direct attention to mere youth and possible good looks alone. For the same reason the French collar and bonnet strings of white hemmed lawn are also forbidden the youngish woman With the older face, however, they, as well as the cap, become entirely matters of individual taste. As for the widow's bonnet itself, it Is really a most Inconsequent affair, for young "and old alike, hardiy more than a back- ground for the draping of the veil, This, according to the taste of the wearer, 1w either of Knglish crepe, which, in spite ot headaches, continues to be worn, nun's veil- ing or spun silk, @ new and effective ma- CREPON MOURNING GOWN. terial. Veils of this spun silk are as light wlmost as chiffon and are quite as agreeable to wear. They have somotimes a woven crepy border, or again an added one of Eng- lish crepe topped by a narrow fold of the me, and along with them are seen occa- slonaily really splendid ones of Brussels net, of a very heavy grade, arranged in a like tashion. They. are both decidad improve- ments over the burdenscme crepes and nu; veilings, but the first mourning vell is gen: erally preferrod in the more somber stuffs, In length, the widow's veil runs all the way from two to three yards and a half. It may even bo longer if desired, and though many aro bunched slightly at the temples to glve an effect of ‘width to the bonnet, again they may be raised back of a flat crepe bow in front to create a look of height. But it 18 only in the first weeks of mourn- ing that the vell is now worn over the tace. To those inexperienced in this sad line of shopping, the buying of first mourning gowns should call for serious thinking or else be left entirely in skilled hands. It is 0 easy to overdo a thing (hat is new, to be tndifferent to a bow or buckle too much, And today, as always, the ethics of good taste demand that no superfluous ornament shall wear the melancholy dignity of sor- row's external expression. Ot course there are always trimmings in plenty for those who will have them. There are dull jets, and huge crepe sleeves and rustling armure silks, but plainness, easy flowing lines, and soft, retiring textures are the points that now distinguish the most correct black. In wools for street as well as house wear, crepon, gralued or crinkley, is a favorite and dressy material. One very rich design in it—and expensive one—has over its frosty weave, which is as heavy as a summer blanket, large raised blots that might almost be likened to tears. Another, quite as solid, is woven in dull grains, and this is likewise for street wesr: The crinkled pattern is preferred for house wse, and s often as light and fragile as veillng, and in this weight affords most gracious possibilities for draping. Other wools that are always permissible for mourning are the priestly henricttas, serges, diagonals and figures and flowery novelties, After careful sponging very dull camel's halr may also be used; and through the same process—limited sponging is no unim- portant factor with most heavy wools nowa- days—a rich and handsome cffect can bo gained from a new highly glace material, that seems to have no especial name, In silk, besides the armare and dull gros grain, peau da sole.is also admitted as mourning. A very beautiful and appropriate house dress, for deep mourning, lately sees had a slightly trained skirt of_peau de sole, nd a chiffon round bodice, that, like the skirt, was without any sign of stiffening. An effective and sensible street gown of English scrge, trimmed with narrow mohalr braid, Il’tl a habit basque, and over its mod- erately ‘flared and stffened lower skirt a WEEDS FOR WALKING. kirt effect that lifted slightly at the left side. ‘With furs, Persian, astrakhan, lynx and the cousinly little moukey skins, though ail worn with color, are the only ones accounted striotly mournin Black bear, Hudson Bay otter and seal, however, are frequent accompaniments to people one sees In the streets, in an emer- gency, any sedate well dyed skin can be used. NINA FITCH. SOUVENIR CANDLES, A Pretty and Usefal Art Practiced by a ver New York Girl. Thero Is a young woman living In that enchanted part of New York known as Cen- tral Park West whose boudoir is the delight and envy of her girl friends. The furnish- Ings are In terra cotta, oak and pink, but it is the brass candelabra which is the beauty of the room. One day they will all rejoice in pink candles with fluted rims and the finely tapering peints that tell of expensive work- manship, Another day they are blue, clear even to enchanting. Next day all will be transparent white. And so through all the days of the season. There are ten candelabra i the room and not one holds less than three candles in its branching fingers. How, then, does the young woman keep them sup- plied without overstepping the bounds of the pocket money which she declares is all her month's allowance? One day at a little Juncheon party the wax taper sprita unbosomed herself thus to her triends: “You have asked me how I get so many agd =0 beautiful candles. And how I can afford to light hem as the dusk dawns on and even touch a candle to their feathery tips it the atmosphere is dull and the day gloomy. ~ Well, I'll tell you. And to li- lustrate what 1 say we will work as I talk, making an object lesson In candle making.” Just here a servant entered with a chafing dish, a dozen composition candles, a ball of candle wick and some coloring substance. “Now, you see,” chattered the hostess, while her fingers worked busily, “I have here Just common white candles that cost a mere song. And I shave them with this sharp knife into this chafing dish. The alcohol lamp will speedlly make them into liquid wax, as you will notice as I shave. Now I have finished and the dish is full of the thick liquid wax. Now you see I stir a little of this pink dye—bought at the drug store— into the liquid, and then I add this little drop of oil for fear the mixture should be too thick. “Now,” turning to a little cabinet, “here is a candle mould. I bought it at a fancy goods store. It holds three candles. And through the centef of each section I run a strip of candle wick and tie it at cach end. So! Now I am ready for the melted wax. Ethel, dear,” turning to the young lady at the left, “will you pour It in with this deep spoon, while I stir all the time. And you, Maude, on my right, hold the mould steady! There, one is filled! Now fill the other.” In a minute all the moulds were full, and, then, setting them away, the hostess pro- duced another set of moulds which also were fllled. And another and another! Soon there stood firmly on the window ledge enough candles to stock the most becandled apart- ments, .. “Now,""continued the hostess, when she could find time to speak, for the filling had been such rapid work see I have plenty of pink candles. Now, I'll deepen the color o red. The druggist told me just how to do it. See! It is a lovely carmine. Now we'll soon have a brilliant set of these. Then i we want to do so we can add blue and have purple, as red and blue makes that shade. When 1 want white candles I leave the iixture clear and simply pour it in my pretty moulds like this. And sometimes I make gray candles, and again yellow ones and then add blue to make green.” “There is still another surprise,” chatted she. “Here are some dainty candie sticks— are they not s0? That I made out of brass wire. T twisted it with the aid of a few tools; and now I'm going to make souyenirs for this luncheon. See the candles are now firm," slipping a couple out of their tin moulds. “and notice how perfect In shape they are, and how nicely they fit to the sticks. You_ see they are made to order. Allow me, Bthel, to present you with the purple set. And you, Maude, let me give you the carmine ones. And here is the pink set for you! And the white set for you!” And 50 the luncheon souvenirs were given out. And the young women went home re- Joicing, not only in pretty gifts, but in the knowledge of having learned a very fine and useful household accomplishment. AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. BAKING CAKE. Successtul Cake Muking Is by No Means n Matter of Luck. u who invariably succeeds with her cakes is generally looked upon by less favored individuals as the possessor of a ‘“luck’ somewhat akin to witcheraft, which precludes the possibility of its owner ever having heavy, burnt, soggy stul. While some people may be luck=, yet the greater num- ber who fail do so from ignorance of funda- mental rules, Going “'by guess” is a very common prac- tice, but far from commendable, Every household should have its scales, measures and thermometer, and these should be in daily use. The pans should be of the best, and kept scrupulously cleav. The flour should be good, butter sweet, and ' eggs strictly fresh, and the ingredlents always mixed in the same order. A big bowl s in- dispensable, and the. same cup should be used for everything. Before starting, have all the things ready. Say, the cake to be baked is a current cake, for which the re- cipe s as follows: Two cups sugar, 3% cup of butter, 3 cups flour, 3 teaspoons baking powder, 3 eggs, 2 teaspoons vanila, 2 cups currants. ave the currants cleaned and perfect! Sprinklo with flour, and mix with the hand Ull each is powdered so that they will mix evenly through the dough. Any fruit or nuts not floured will sink to the bottom. Measure the flour and add to it the baking powder slfting two or three times. Beat the eggs separately, very light, measure the sugar and butter into the mixing bowi; have the re- quired amount of milk and the vanilla ready, and lastly grease the pan well with butter and cither flour thoroughly bottom and sides. or else put a greased papen in the bottom. First cream the butter and sugar thor- oughly, then add the yolks of eggs, then the milk, then the flour, a handful at a time, then the flavoring, afterwards the curs rants, and last, the whites of the eggs. The mixture must be stirred briskly and con- stantly in the same dlrection always. A wooden spoon Is about the best, as the handle will not bend like a metal one. It takes a great deal of strength for the final beating, but unless it is given the texture of the cake will be coarse. All loaf cakes should b2 baked in square tins rather than round, and the mixture should not reach the toj by about three-fourths of an inch, to allow for raising, else it will run over the sides and spoil ifs appearance, The (emperature of the oven is a very important factor. It should not be too hot at first, or the outside will bake so much soonér than the inside as to spoil the cake. Neither should it be too cold, or the cake will fall at once.. If water dropped on the bottom hisses, ‘it 18 hot enough for baking. I the cake shows.a tendency to brown too quickly on the top cover with a sheet of brown paper, if, on ‘the contrary, the bottom cooks oo rapidly set the oven grate be- neath it. Have the fire steady, and do not shake the stove or open the oven any oftencr than is necessary. — Test with o broom splint; 1t nothing adheres to it it is done through. Do not cut till cold, let it cool gradually. Then remove from the pan. If desired to ice, it is better to leave till the next day and then apply to the bottom instead of top, as this gives a smooth sur- face. This is true of all cakes. Layer cakes take twenty minutes each to bake. Loaf cakes, from an hour and & quarter (o three hours, according to size and kind. A cup should be about half a pint in liquid, or half & pound in dry measure, Two cups represent a pound of sugar or flour, exempli- fying the old adage: “A pint's a pound the world round.” A balf-cup, representing a A woni knife. 1t is claimed by some to be an ad- vantage to dry the sugar and flour thor- oughly; if this is done, care must be taken not to scorch them, nor add them to the cake while warm. MRS. B. F. A SUMPTUOUS WARDROBE, Miss Lilllan Russell's New Home Tollots Described, Somebody says “only a beautiful can wear a beautiful dress.” It this wag quite true there would not be 80 many beautiful gowns worn, but now and then some radiant creature comes to the glorification of the modiste's most recherche creations, with a royal generosity of charms \hat makes up for the discrepancies of others. Miss Lilllan Russell, for example, has some stunning tollets this season that In com- bination with her beautiful face and superh figure made her a queen of brilliants in more senses than that of the star of a comlic opera by that name. Her stage dresses in her latest role are of a fanciful character not suited to the wardrobe of a woman in private life, but her private wardrobe overflows with elegant models for arraying blonde beauty upon any and all oceasfors, woman Artistic house gowns with long flowis lines are a fad of Miss Russell, wio appre- clates no doubt their superlatively becoming | quality for a figure that has a full bust and | expansive hips. Of her tea gowns and negligees perhaps the prettiest dream of all is a pink silk crepe of the exquisite blush tint of the pearly pink | wild rose. It is made up over a pink silk slip of the same shade, with gigot sleeves | of pink satin, and a cape bertha of black thread laco that gives an air of distinction to the gown. The lines of the figure are | suggested rather than outlined by a sash of pink silk For demi-house toflets for morning or after- noon wear Miss Russell has a pronounced liking for pretty fancy waists worn with dark skirts. A distingue toilet of this sort for one who has a smooth fair skin, with light hair, consists of a black skirt, and a walst of cerise or clear cherry red silk veiled with black. The skirt is of satin made full, and flaring, and perfectly plain about the foot. The walst has a square yoke defined with . fine black thread lace in diamond lattico design. The huge sleeves and entire lower part of the bodice are covered with a fine accordian plaiting of sheer chiffon in | black, put on so that the plaits run round the body instead of vertically. A chic street toilet that is another trophy of Miss Ruseell's latest trip abroad is of dark blue cloth, made with a flaring gored skirt, and tight fitting bodice. The front of the skirt is a solid tablier of blue velvet, from which revers of the cloth turn back upon the skirt, the revers being elegantly embrotdered with gold. The idea of an un- der robe of velvet is carried out in the bodice, which has a gllet of velvet, and revers corresponding to those on the skirt, alsd embroidered with gold. The girdle of | this felix gown is wide and of gold embroid ery, a black velvet bow just in front being a cunning intervention. A sealskin cape, and a big picture hat of blue velvet are elegant accessories cf this dress. 5 : SUNDAY, DECEMBER 2, 1894. ! moments. =!2. able to sit with her face toward the=wind that almost enguifed her, poering out into the darkness that rushed past, and being blinded by the glare of the great fi 8 the furnace doors swung open to be replégiged Her noxffPlesson was learned at the whis- tle. Thew came the bell cord and soon these two funclions were left entirely to her hands. As a train drew up to u station In Florida where Mrs. Mason was waiting, the engineer and fireman {mmediately made room for her She knew every one by name on the different locomotives and they all knew her. Proud was the engineer when lils-cab contained the bright wife of the vice president. Her seat on the bench near the window was kno by the tefegraph operator and the statiol ds @8 the engine came up, and all had pleasant greetings for her. 80, in time, she mastered the more dificult tasks, those that required nerve and skill, and could take an engine from the Atlantic to the Gulf of Mexico as well as an old en- gineer; and these latter were very proud of her; one of the oldest men on the road re- marked to her once, ‘““Whenever your hus- band gets out of a job, Mrs. Mason, just come down here and we'll put you up “ia the unfond ! CHINUHILLA, o The Most Fashionible Fur of the Winter Is Aunnounced. Fur was’once defined by a witty French- man as ‘‘wne peau qui change de bite'— (a akin that changes its wearer), and fashion has decreed that we shall all array our- selves this winter at the expense of the little rats known as chinchillas. The name is Spanish, as the animals are natives of Chili and Peru. They are about the size of a small squirrel, but much less active than our own frisking, froliesome flashes of fur, 'with very large round ears, covered but slightly with down. -They use their fore paws to convey the food to their mouths, which are but half as long as their hind' legs. Being of a gentle nature, with no fighting in- stinets, their ohly ohance of safety lles in flight, #0o they burrow in the mountain sides long tunnels, whose depth and extent enable them to elude their pursuers. They are hunted by dogs, who are trained to take them without Injuring the fur. The ancient Peruvians used to weave very beautiful materials of the plucked hairs, which wersa used only by royalty. Probably one reason of the popu- larity of this fur at present 1s that In 1830 the French naturalists first gave their attention to tne chinchillas, being en- abled to verify the statements made by Molina many years before by observing some of the little animals which had been brought to the “Menagerie of the Museum’ in Paris. Public attention was drawn to them. The fur became the fashion. As we are now masquerafi’ng in the costumes of that period we, too, must wear chinchill There are three grades of the fur. The cheapest comes of & cross breed and is rec- ognizable by its darker color und shorter fur. The second in value is the real chin- chilla, but taken from an old animal, while the very young ones furnish the most beauti- ful and valuable skins. Of these the fur Is long, the color a light pearly gray, aml in certain lighgs there is upon them a tilken that} is Much admired by connols- Th mofhs are more appreciative of chinchilla than of any other fur and seem to have an instinctive preference for the best. Through the summer the furriers wage in- cessant waf with these destroyers, never A dainty conceit for an afternoon at home allowing ma.r made up articles to bs put away LILLIAN RUSSELL. that by its very simplicity makes the beauti- ful wearer the fairer is of silvery gray crepe made over silk of the same tint. The skirt has two modest little folds of the goods about the foot, and at intervals rabbits’ ear bows of glistening silver tinted satin ribbon seem to hold the folds in place. There is a surplice arrangement of folds across the front, a smart girdle and sash ends of the satin ribbon, and coquettish cuffs and a fichu of sheer white mull to set off the bodice. A dashing dinner gown ig of black velvet with a demi-trained skirt and decollete bod- fce with sleeve puffs that are very large. The neck and the foot of the skirt are bor- dered with a fluffy mass of gray marabout feathers that glint from pearl to dove gray in shade. The front of the dress is orna- mented with pendants and connecting loops of gold shaded into harmony with the gown by an admixture of pearl and black cords. An exquisite ball gown is of superb white satin brocaded with silver. The demi-trained skirt has two panels, one on each side of the “front breadth, of Honiton lace. The bodice instead of ending at thé walistline is contin- ued in short basques that give it the effect of melting into the skirt. About the upper part of the skirt, falling from under the basque of the bodice, Is a flounce of the lace corresponding to the side panel bands. This is put on full enough to hang easily but not full enough to hide the pattern, which is one of the charms of elegant lace. The decollete neck is outlined with a nar- row band of lace the points turned down- ward, and there is a full plaited fold of the #atin across the bust just below the lace, ending in the arm seams and caught together in the center with a jeweled brooch, as for instance an immense opal of wondrous beauty set in many small diamonds. The sleeves are single puffs to the elbow, and over them fall a deep epaulette ightly strapped through the center to make two small capes, which are bordered with the lace. DINAH STURGIS. A Soclety Woman's Diversion, Mrs. Altred Bishop Mason is probably the only woman In the States who can take out a locomotive engine. Certainly, she is the only soclety woman able to accomplish this feat. When her husband was vice president of one of the large Florida railroads, Mrs. Ma- son always went with him en his annual trip. She had been as a girl intensely interested in machinery, and it was with her an insatiable g or fourth of a pint, Is taken as four ounces. Four teaspoonsful are equal to one tablespoonful, and two tablespoonsful equal to one ounce. - These measures are accepted by all bakers. The yolks of eggs are well beaten when a spoonful can be taken wp. The whites, @eepest crepe, and, Indeed, to judge by the when they are stif and can be cut with a desire to take an engine over the road. And she learned to do it in fine fashion. She began by gaining the permission of the engineer to sit in the cab with him; not do- ing anything but swinging on, and familiar- izing herself with its swing and the work required for its movement. She says this was one of her most thrilling In the dark, but, they are kept out in the open daylight and frequently aired, while the skins themeelves are kept on ice. Dermuto! e Treatment, Why should any woman be an unpleasant reflection to herself in the mirror, is the query of varied curists of the day. There are tonics tp fatten and exerc to re- duce; atlleties to produce strength and color, and dyes to. subdue or brighten the shade of one's hair: Is the complexion bad? Then cosmetica and coloring matter are pushed aside to give way to massage and steannng, for the method of personal art is growing more healthful every day. The manicurist and the hair dresser care for the two extremities in an artistic manner, and the curves that nature or gymnastics have not sufficiently developed are left to the art of the couturiere and the south’s staple production. But, wail women, given figure omplexion, and coloring com plete, one'sfTeatures remain often a serious blemish. Just here is where the surgical dermatologist, steps These “jffofigters” of good looks claim to arrange &_hdmonious contour in the features that nature thought wise to neg- leet. Should thefMrehead wrinkle, small aro made aglthe function where the halr grows, and (he skin pulled up smooth and taut, and a bit of adhesive plaster put on; and the wadDq oon heals. If the cheeks are inclined to.bp)Bagey,” wrinkle deeply about the mouth and seem to lack muscle, the little incisions afe made in the extreme outer surface of. the cuticle by the ears and the same method employed. These bits of neat surgery require skill, but are not danger- ous, as the operation is confined entirely to curist, the slits depths. Also, the marking and the pain is incidental. However, these are the simpler opera- tions. For the changing of the features more skillful and compromising treatment is advanced. One's hose can be enlarged or varrowed, the ears can be put at a different angle, the eyebrows be thickened or thinned, and the oyelashes made longer. This is done by fine instruments, and in the case of those sufficiently venturesome to try the experi- ments, the result has been most satisfactory to patient and dermatologist. A nobler test of the curist's art fs to punctuate the eyes with a harmless solution that broadens the color line or deepens it, the case is desired. This is an operation that is doubtful, and been tested by a minerity only. Puncturing the cheeks with a solution of rosaline and glycerine with other compon- leaves no scar, the top laver and not extended to dangerous | ent parts that are not given away by the preparer is a trick of tho trade that is more popular. Small needles are used, and the coloring matter Injected undér the epldermls produces a roseate glow that pervades for at “loast a year. As to the wisdom of these proceedings toward personal adormment the (udividual must choose. One may question the Judiciousness of the course, but the fact ex- fsts that it s done. ADELE McALLISTER. With every second girl racking her brains in an effort to think of inexpensive Christ- mag presents, the small, round Japanese *'cat basket” (which are sold in all fancy goods stores for 5 cents aplece), should stand head of the class for prettiness, economy and gen- eral usefulness, Three of these baskets placed in a_triangle, and_fastened_together With a bow of ribbon, make a charming “eateh all."” One basket lined with a bit of bright silk 18 & dainty ring or stud case, and If the round opening be filled with a plump little cushion, behold a place for pins, and by stufiing the basket with a plece of coarse netting fur- nishes a splendid place to stick one’s hair- Dins, By making a silk bag top with double drawing strings the basket is transformed into a hair reeeiver or travelers' sewing bas- ket, and, fastening a pen brush in the bot- tom, makes a model pen wiper for some im- patient “scribe.” An {lluminated brestle board cover fastened with baby ribbon gives a “‘bon bon basket,” which will gladden the heart of any child. Although the baskets are a pretty straw color, they may be made very artistic by splattering with gold paint, or giving them a coat of white enamel with monogram or lines n gilt, Fashion Notes, Bralding still appears on many smart cloth gowns, Black velvet shoes with tiny paste buckles are worn with black velvet gowns. The long-waved Astrakhan fur called “Caracal” rivals the closer Persian lambskin as a black trimming. Spanish yellow or bluet-blue velvet blouses, with mutton-leg sleeves of brocade or satin, are made by London tailors to wear with black or brown skirts. Waist and hip-length ermine capes (with small drum cuffs to match) are this season worn with opera and theater tollets, and at day receptions and high teas. . Sets consisting of hat, collarette, and muff to match are greatly favored, and for. after- noon teas, calls, and receptions, when heavy furs are too warm, are very dreesy and use- ful. White shoes for dress wear are being made in a white and siiver brocade on the supposition that the pattern of the brocade breaks the unbecoming whiteness of plain kid or satin, Beaver of all colors fs still favored in mil- linery, and chestnut brown satin beaver trimmed with sable, with knots of brown and dark green velvet, forms a very stylish and pretty hat. A feature of London shoes is the broguing, which is holes punched in the leather in a pattern. This season a color to match or harmonize with a costume is introduced under the broguing. Says the Drapers’ Record: “Artificial whalebone is now made from leather strips, Dby means of chemicals, high temperature, and heavy.pressure. Originality, even in whales, promises to be at a discount soon. One of the newest patterns in sleeves has a_stitched down- box plait from the neck to the shoulder, where it develops into one of the folds of the sleeve, which sags very niuch toward the elbow. Some of the mewest victorines of min otter, seal, and ermine have long ‘“stol ends’ that reach the skirt hem. Some are lined with black or brown,-but the majority have a gayer lining of cerise, petunia, Persian mauve, or old rose moire. Dlack and Lincoln green is a favorite combination of the season that has about it an especial dash and style. An appropriate trimming for a gown of this scheme is jet passementerie studded with emeralds in the new jeweled effects. Some stylish evening capes are made of ceriso red ‘velours trimmed with cut-jet ara- besques of the richest description. There is a high Medici collar, densely covered with the jet garniture, with the merest roll of otter fur at all the edges. Seal, otter and Alaska sable sets are most worn, the hat or toque trimmed with sable tails, the collarette sometimes formed of a deep fringe of saple talls falling from a small cape collar. The muff is either wholly of fur or of velvet edged with fur. Directoire collarettes with the popular godet fullness added at the lower edge are worn in several sizes, from cight to eighteen inches deep, each having a high storm coilar of the same fur, but as a rule the entire collarette is edged with another kind of fur. The rew godet pleats for sleeves give to those alrcady mammoth affairs an added touch of amplitude. The pleats stand out in three straight loops from the shoulder, their size being in many cases apparently only limited by ability to buy material. Feminine Notes. Mrs. Bradley-Martin has bought the dia- mond crown once owned and worn by Marle Antoinette. The superintendent of the hospital at Loo Chow, China, is Dr. Annie Walter, a Missis- sippl woman. In the Madras presidency and the Bombay presidency (Hindoostan) the women exercise the right of suffrage in all municipalities. Dr. Y. May Kin, the first Chinese woman to recsive a medical degree in America, has a large practice in Kobe, Japan. There are only two women in Great Britian who are entitled to add LL. D. to their nemes, and they are both Belfast girls. Miss Frances H. Gray is the latest to be so honored by the Royal university of Ireland. The Princess Alix recelved the names Alex- andra Feodorowna, and the title of an ortho- dox Russien grand duchess—in Russian lan- guage, “Blagovernala velikaja knagina.” After the ceremony of confession she received the communion according to the orthodox rite. It is also reported. that at the same time the exchange of the rings took plac Marie Antoinette’s lace shawl, which she on the scaffold gave to her father confessor, the Abbe de I'Orme, Is in the possession of the Church of Neundorff, in the county of Glatz The Abbe de I'Orme, who emigrated, left it at his death to the Prelate Strobach in Bres- lau. It has since passed turough the hands of two or three clergymen, and was finally presented to the church at Neundorft by tor Helnrichs At the next sossion of the Colorado assem- | bly, and at the first seasion of the body in the new state house, three women will tak thelr seats in the house of representatives. Of these three, who are, respectively, Mrs. Cressingham, Mrs. Holly and Mrs. Klock. the first two are New Yorkers. Mrs. Cres- singham was born, educated and married in Brooklyn, and Mrs, Holly'’s home was in New York City up to five years ago. There is a curlous custom among th daughters of the house of Hapsburg, whose bridal trains,. instead of finishing an honor- able career in the ball room, are bestowed after the ceremony on the church whos sacred floor they have swept. Only the other day, during the centenary celebration at Renneweg, the altar floor was covered with a sheen of satin and silver, mellowed by the breath of age, that had once formed part of Marie Antoinette’s wedding garment. The harrowing tales sent out through the country as indicative of New York social life are having their reactionary effect. A woman living In a Connecticut town wrote last week to a clty friend that she had re- versed her long-held idea of sending her daughter, a young woman of 17, to a New York school this fall. ““To be quite honest,” she wrote, “I am frightened at the stories I | read of the excesses of New York scelety, [ do not want my daughter to get in any such atmosphere. The next convention of the World's Wo- man's Christian Temperance union, a body composed of delegatos of national temper- ance organizations of women throughout the world, will meet fo London in June. The meetings will probably cover two or more days, and include a great public assembly in Queen’s hall. Preparations for these gath- erings, which promise to be of some Im- portance, are being made, Including arrange- ments for the reception of de'egates from the United States, Canada and Australia, Al sk Rateas RUSSIA'S ROYAL ~ (ZARINA The Beautiful Princess Who Will Reign Be- side Nicholas IT, HAS A POSITIVE MIND OF HER OWN Alix Lod a Lively Childhood but Is Now & Solf-Retlant, Hardy Girl Who Retused to Declare Her Religlon Accursed, LONDON, Nov. 24.—(Special.)—Princess Alix, the future empress of the young Czar Nicholas, is far more English in sentiment and training than many of her English cousins. From babyhood she has been sur- rounded by nurses, attendants and gov- ernesses selected at Windsor and Balmoral, and since the age of 6 she has been mothered and cared for’ almost exclusively by her royal grandmother, Queen Victoria. Princess Allx of Hesse is the youngest living child of the late grand duke and duchess of Hesse Darmstadt, and her mother, Princess Alice, was the most popular of the English royal family, and her love and de- PRINCES: yotion to her mother were touchingly proved In the remarkable volume of letters pub- lished after her death. Her widower's fool- ish intrigue with his Russian ambassador’s wife, Mme. Kalomine, did not destroy Queen Victoria's affection for her dead daughter's “‘adored Louis." Princess Alix 1s tall and slender, fair hair and blue eyed, with a refined, sensitive face. She looks older than her 22 years, and has in her short life known many sor- rows. Her mother died when she was only 6 years old, although she was fortunate in the possession of a particularly admirable and thoroughly competent nurse, rejoicing in the typical English name of Orchard. Her childhood, save for the long visits she paid to her maternal grandmother, were spent in comparative seclusion, for her three sisters, Victorla, Elizabeth and Irene, were all con- siderably older than herself, and her friend and playfellow, Prince “Ernie,” was soon taken away from nursery life and put under the guardianship of tutors and soldiers. As the princess grew up she became far more her father's companion and friend than any of her sisters ‘had ever been. Her governess, Miss Jackson, proved a kind and indulgent” guide, philosopher and friend to the lonely young girl, and owing to her ef- 'crts Princess Alix may be said to be a highly educated woman in the best sense of the term; she is widely and well read and naturally’ possesses Irench, English and German “a fond.” Years passed by and the princess showed no disposition to make one of those early marriages which aro so common among Iuropean royalties. It was said, and I be- lieve with reason, that Queen Victoria wished to sce her favorite granddaughter married to her heir presumptive, and accordingly firstly the duke of Clarence and, after his tragic death, the duke of York, were a good deal thrown' with their pretty cousin. The princo of Wales, wise in his generation, has always discountenanced German marriages, and it was owing to his influence in a great measure that Princess May of Teck, the daughter of a really porular and English born princess, was finally selected by first one and then another of his sons. As long ago as the jubilee year, when the Princess Alix was a little over 15, it war whispered that the czarewitch was much at- tractod to the orphan princess whose close connection with the Russian royal family is scarcely recognized even now. Heese Darm- stadt, though a small German state, has already given thres empresses to Russia, including the much-loved Czarina Marie, tha late czar's mother, a woman of sterling goodness, whose great hearted charity made her adoréd by the Russian peasantry. The marriage of the Princess Bila to the late czar's brother, the Grand Duke Serge, also drew the families cioser together. Princess Alix was constantly visiting her sis- ter in Russia, and it is said that from the first Alexander 1II. expressed great interest and affection for his young cousin, although he by no means hastened on his son’s en- gagement. At last, after a prolonged tour through India, Japan and Siberia, he czarewitch ex- pressed his determination to settle down, but Princess Alix showed no undue haste to avail herself of the brilliant propositions made to her, and she on'y consented to his formal be- trothal on the occasion of her brother's wed- ding to Princess Victoria Melita of Idin- burgh, the second daughter of the duke of Coburg. On that occasion the whole English and German royal families were. gathered together, but so little was the engagement expected that the young emperor of Ger- many, not crediting the message sent to him, ran through the streets of the picturesque little town of Coburg, and eibowed his way through the crowd surrounding the royal schloss in order to ascertain for himself the joyful fuct, for to him the marriage of the future czar to a German princess was nat- urally a great reason for self-congratuation. ‘Grandma, we have come to tell you of our betrothal, and to ask you for your blessing," the ezarewiteh said to the queen when telling her of his own and the Princess Alix's en- gagement; but although theé young couple were overwhelmed with good wishes from far and near, the czar and czarina being of the first to send substantial tokens of their warm approval, ‘“the course of true love has not by any means run smooth. The late grand duchess of Hesse, Princess Alix's mother and most revered example, d openly expresscd her dislike to the change of religicn being made a condition in royal marriages. This point is touched upon several times in her letters, and it is only natural that her daughter should have felt sensitively on this point. Stll it is clear that the czarina of Holy Russia cannot be any- thing but orthodox, and the engagement had scarcely been announced when two Greek priests were sent to instruct the princess with a view of her joining her future hus- band's faith. The princess lent herself with fairly good grace to all that was proposed till she found that she would be required to de- clare that her late religion was “‘accnrsed.” This she absolutely refused to do, and as a consequence the marriage was at one time almest_broken offt. After many ‘“‘pour-par- lers” the primate of the Greek church con- sented to alter the form of abjuration to the | words, “I join the Greek church in order to be of the same religion as my future husband and children,” and until this was clearly and publicly stated the princess would not even consent to consider the question of her change of faith. Princess Alix, since the death of her father, has been the guest of her brother at. the grand ducal palace of Darmstadt. There she had and has her own sulte of rooms filled with portraits of her English relations and friends and lined with books old and new, German and English. Her marriage was to have taken place two | months bafore the czar's fatal illness, had it not been for religious difficulties, and the fact that she herself was in no hurry to be- gin her new life, Unlike the czarewiich, who is painfully nervous and to whom even the no'se of a seltzer bottle being opened pro- duces a painful impression, the princess has extraordinary self-command and much of her grandmother's sterling good sense ana knowledge of the world. Often it has been her part to act as peacemaker between her | tal forces when in a health A NOVEL ENTERTAINMENT TO LADIES ONLY. A Matines Lecture N BEAUTY CULTURE PHYSICAL CULTURE AND THE COMPLEXION By the world famons BEAUTY and COMPLE ST, MME, M. YALE, BOYD'S THEATRE RIeidon, DEC. 7th, AFTERNOON, 0 PoM. AT TICKETS NOW ON SALE at Box Office of Theater. Secure your seats In advance, i away. as hundreds will be tus A GRAND AND GLORIOUS REVELATION To the world. Beauty can.be cultivated, youth restored and preserved. Wrinkles and every trace of age removed. Gray hair turned back to its original color without dye. HER DAZZLING BEAUTY. [ THE PERFECT WO MAN. Who at 41 looks as fresh and lovely as any beauty ever seen at 18. Showing the power of her art in preserving youth and cultivating beauty. Ladles, bring your note-books and penclls to take down valuable recipes to be glven yau by Mme. Yale. Reserved Seats at Box Office of Theater, price 50 cents. Lectures commence at 2:30 sharp. Doors open at 2 o'clock. Grand Musie Programme, LADIES ONLY. Ladies are respectfully requested promptly seated at 2:30 p. m. MME. M. YALE WILL APPEAR IN Athletic Costume, And create a sensation on her Marvelous Cultivated Beauty of Face and Form. HER CONFIDENTIAL ADVICE. Ladies who attend this lecture will receive & Mme. Yale's confidential advice and instrue- tions, which cannot be obtained outside of this lecture, GENTLEMEN POSITIVZLY NOT ADMITTED THE PROGRAMME: to develop the bust, to walk. to eat, to sleep. to preserve health. to cure female weakness, How to cure liver or kidney trouble, How to cure and prevent consumption. How to cure constipaticn. How to develop chest and lungs, How (o make the figure erect. How to increase height. How to straighten the limbs. How, to develop the limbs and make them shapely. How to develop the arms. How to make the hands and feet smal) and shape! How to increase flesh. How to make flesh firm, How (o reduce flesh. How to obtain perfect health and preserve It How to breathe. How to live, How to remove wrinkles. How to cultivate natural beauty. How to become young again. How to preserve youth. How to obtain a perfect complexion. How (o remove and cure Moth Patches, Freckles, Blackheads, Acne, Eczema, Sunburn and Tan, Sallowness, Pimples, Coarso Pores, and any form of Complexion Defects. MASSAGE. I Its importance and proper movements. How to make flabby flesh young and youthful. P How to restore the loss of contour, How to fill out sunken cheeks. How to make eyes clear, sparkling, brilliant and beautiful. to How How How How How How and white. How to make the cheeks naturally rosy.: How to make coarse pores fine grained. - How to make the brow smooth and white, How to make the mouth shapely. B How to make the lips full and ruby red. M Mme, Yo, s Porfe Woman, | IN ATHLETIC COSTUME, . Wil give practical lessons by going through the different movements of her system for developing and making perf the female form, - EXPRESSION, How to use the eyes, How to laugh. How to educato the expression by the power of thought, showing the influence of the ntal qualities to educate the physical. very organ of the body subject to the men- state of action of a cultivated E and under the careful guidanc restralut, L THE HAIR. How to cultivate a thick growth of eye- brows and lashes. How to restore gray hair to its natural color without dye by circulating its naturab coloring matter, How to stop hair falling in from 24 hours to one week. How to ereate a luxuriant growth of hair. How to keep the hair in curl and arrange it becomingly. How to remove and cure the growth of sue perfluous hair. IMPORTANT MENTION. This lecture to be glven by Mme. Yale will verify woman's progress and fnventive genlus as nothing else has ever presented itself in the history of the world. It is every woman's duty to attend and celebrate the victory over old age. IO BEAUTY. Ladies living at a distance or those unable to attend these lectures are invited to send their name and address with 6 cts. post: and Mme. Yale will mail them her Guide to Beauty, a dainty little book containing ex- tracts from the Madame's famous lectures and valuable advice on cultivating beauty. Consultation free at Temple of Beauty o GUID sisters and their bhusbands, and had it not been for her the Grand Duke and Grand Duchess Serge would have been separated lowg ago. It was the knowledge of this fact that made the ezar first comsent to the thought of her marriage with his eldest son. Cook's hnperial. World's fair “highest award, excellent champagne; good effery ence, agreeable bouquet, delicious favor. For in Russia, czarinas have always played an important part ln the affairs of state, ADELE MAROC, by mail. Address all communications to MME. M. YALE, Headquarters 146 Stats St., CHICACO, ILL. Awarded Highest Honses by the World's Faie. How to make a thin, scrawny neck plump o ] o § ) A | ¥ 1 {