Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, November 25, 1894, Page 19

THE OMAHA DAILY BEE: SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 1894. L= FRENCH FASHION LETTER. Weivet Gowns and Fashionable Adjuncts for Evening Wear. PARIS, Nov. 10.—The “best gown'' is try- 1ng to shape itself now on the feminite retina, What to wear, say to church, to the theater, to Aunt Jane's family dinner, to the next card party, or of an evening when drops in one's tavored young man, and how to add to ita fixings to make it look new wheo the oc- casion is new—to make it like scveral other American institutions, combine numerous pos- eibilities in one. It is a question of the hour. The French woman has her demi-dress, and the Engish one her visiting gown, and back of them on the peg they have Invariably a decollete supplementary known as full dress. So have some Americans, but to how many others is the decollete unknown, and full dress no other than the high necked best gown. It s a comprehensive question there—a parlor folding bed in sixteen transformations is beside it ro matter at all There is choice between plain velvet, croco- dile velvet, velvet barred off like a lattice, velvet In s dour flowers, changeable. Have your best gown then of velvet, and mccording to your taste or style or your velvet In every effect but CHIFFON AND VELVET. — e = pocketbook. Choose a model from the fol- lowing, or it you do not like the following, Pplease yourself with modification. FOR USE AND BEAUTY. Make a gown of dark brown velvet, barred oft with light brown. Cut the skirt, if you would have it of the latest form, in fourteen breadths, a little long round the back, 80 that it spreads out in a big circle on the floor, a la Marie de Medicis. Barder it with a very narrow edge of sable, or leave it plain it you prefer. Have a figaro jacket of the velvet cut with a low neck, and sew on to it @ round collar six or elght inches wide, and border the collar and Jjacket with sable. Wear it over a high-necked blouse of pale green plaited chiffon, with a greenm velvet neck band. Or make the blouse of yellow if this color suits you better. Cut the gigot sleeves to run down on to the hand in a long, narrow tongue. If you do mot care for the jacket, make a bodfce, with the front full and plaited into the belt. Put a strap of fur over the armholes and appliafe a passe- mentérie ornament from the front of each armhole diagonally down on each side toward the middle of the belt, 5o as to frame in the fullness of the bodice, and by keeping the sldes plain make the waist look small. Or make a plain bodice with a low-necked jet corselet, and-4rim every seam of the skirt down with jet passementerie. SIMPLE SKIRTS. A skirt of fourteen breadths will seem to many women to require a too extravagant amount of trimming, particularly if every seam is to be trimmed, as is much the fashion, and o it should be said that skirts of ordinary gores are not out of fashion, A plain skirt of front, side gore and back is very fashionably made with the front breadth bordered all round like an apron, say with an edge of fur and a thread of embroidery or a passementerie applique inside, and the same border all round the foot. As an adjunct to vary this gown and wear under a cloak have a brown satin blouse, laid in tucks, with a stitched box plait down the front, into which put catseye studs. Have a high turn-over collar and skeeves like those ,:-wdrllml above, running down on to the and. Pinely checked velvet is very fashionable. It s not as dressy as plain velvet, and Is suitable rather to out-of-doors toilet and day wear; but I have seen a gown of it in black and rose, made for the Countess C—tski, that as quite beautiful enough for a diner intime “even at the Grand Chateau, where it Is to be worn, A facing of black velvet is on the #kirt, the upper edge cui in inverted scallops and bordercd with jet, and from the angle of each scallop down over the black a verti- cal strip of sparkling cut jet passementerie. SHEPHERD'S PLAID. ‘The bodice has a low-necked corselet of fet ementerie, slashed up in points from the velvet belt. Black collar band. NEW BLOUSES, Blouses of checked velvet are ona of the mowest fancies for wear with plain skirts. Made In the private houses, some of tham are garnished with sheer book muslin needle- work. One made by Leyvast: f black and white gheck, has a front set in of needle- work some four or five inches wide. The needlework 1s made with a stitched box plalt and a cluster of fine tucks and parrow Val- enclennes cach side. The velvet Is turned each slde or cut out, and the muslin " lisa over & blue lining. Turquoise studs are spherd’s checks, velvet in pompa- | down the front. Over the velvet neck-band is turned down a collar of the needlework, and the sleeve has the top fullness plaited in at the elbow, and thence down the back is set in a strip of needlework over blue to the wrist, which has a needlework turn-over cuff, A showy blouse for an afternoon at home 18 of Nile-green velvet with pompadour flow- with a white laca front over rose. o blouses arc ecasily made by the The back fits in plaits to the lining, and the front, also in plaits, is bout- fant. The neck-band and belt are generally of velvet, wrinkled and drawn round to hook behind with little gathered flanges. It may be useful to say that these have the best effect made In this way: Finish the blouse | with a plain band sewed on; then cut a bias plece of velvet six inches wide and long enough to go around the neck, which finish by hemming on the sides and gathering at each end with the flanges. It is not lined. Catch the middle of one side to the lower edge of the.slptiopary band, and when the blouse is puf on it is turned up and hooked round. Thus.it{always looks fresh. The belt 18 done fn"thie fame way, and without lining, but a whalebone may be' caught in down the front. A skirt of black velvet is useful and in good taste for nearly all occasions. It need have no bodice, as silk blouses are so much worn. Make [t with plain side gores, and put a sable ¢dge on the bottom and above it a sroutache braid, set on in curves, with a cluster of three loops at intervals. —Have to go with this for day wear a black satin blouse, like the brown one described above. | For evening have a full plaited blouse of mauve chiffon, with enormous puffed sleeves, each as largé ms the bodice and reaching just over the elbow. Wrinkled neck band and belt, fastened behind, of mauve velvet. Elaborate this toilette still further by put- ting over the blouse a mauve velvet sleeve- Tess figaro, embroidered with gold. Or make the blouse of Nile green, with a green figare, edged with an applique of gray velvet, em- broidered down with gold; or If you afe a brunet have the blouse of light yellow and the figaro of deep yellow, and trim these with sable, and this will be the most stun- ning of all. ADA CONE. JAHREE TOOTHSOME CAKES. German Honey Cake. This is the season for honey, and if you are fond of the sweet stuff here is a recipe for “German honey cake." Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, and when melted stir into it half a pound of honey. Let it boil, stirring briskly all the time. Take it from the fire and, when slightly cool, mix with it half the rind of one lemon chopped finely, two ounces of sweet almonds blanched and bruised, a lit- tlo nutmeg grated, one-half pound of flour and one-balf teaspoonful baking powder. Leave the mixturs in a cool place for about | twelve hours. At’the end of that time roll the paste out ome-half an inch thick and cut | it into small cakes, and.a split and blanched almond at each corner. These cakes must | be baked for twenty-five minutes in & mod ate oven. FOR THE TEA TRAY. Pints d'amour is the odd name, but mot | unattractive, which is given toa_sweet morzel | occasionally seen on an English 5 o'clock tea table. The construction of the same is quite simple and as follows: Make a rich, puff paste and roll it out thin. Then with tin shapes cut the paste out in sizes, each larger than the other. Place the sizes in pyramidical form; then bake in a moderately hot oven. When baked different colored sweetmeats should be lald on the edges. MORAVIAN SUGAR CAKE. Wherever a Moravian family is found thera also abides sugar cake. In a way, it guar- antees the religion of the household, for it is as dear to them as the faith they profess, Bethlehem, Nazareth, Lititz—wherever Mo- ravians dwell, this confection is found. In appearance it is something like bread. The Pennsylvan'a Dutch make a cake some- thing like it, known as Dutch cake, but the recipes ara very different. The coffee ecake sold by bakevs is also similar, but for break- fast or lunch nothing can equal a sugar cake. The ingredients are: One and one-half cups sugar, ofie cup yeast, one cup mashel po- tatoes, one-half cup lard and butter mixed; two eggs, one-half eup warm milk; flour to stiffen. Mix sugar, yeast and potatoes together and let stand in a warm place to raise over night. In the morning add the lard and butter, melted, the eggs beaten together, millk and flour to make of a consstency not quite as stiff as bread. Work for twenty minutes, let raise, put on tins and let raise again, then put butter and sugar on the top and bake. This quantity will make three good sized ones. They are always baked in round tins. Sugar cake always has an unbroken upper crust with a glazing of sugar, but Dutch cake Is embellished by holes dotted at intervals, filled with butter, sugar and cin- namon. ~ This marks one great difference in the two, while coffee cake is further adorned with_currants. When properly mixed they are delicious, and make an excellent “piece” for children. One housekeeper bakes them in angel cake molds, whith gives them a very nice ap- pearance, only it isn't Moravian.” No self- respecting Moravian would ever think of deviating from the round cakes. MRS. E. FRANCISCO. ETIQUETTE OF MOURNING, Some of the Unwritten Soclal Laws Ob- served by These 1n Aflietion. The sensileb and the fashionable are leaving off a great amount of crepe. This may be a herald that grieving can be indulged in as deeply as ever, but the conspicuous public evidences of it in dress is no longer good form. So only the few cling morbidly to the veil that swathes the body and hides the face. The change is commended for hygienic reasons, and physicians strenuously unite in Qiscountenancing the practice. Also with this innovation a briefer period of absenting one's self from visitors or small affairs prevails. It Is never good taste for a widow to return to soci formally under eighteen months after her bereavement, but sisters and daughters reappear to the extent of informal teas and “at home” days after six months of mourning. Many of the smart women of New York even mingle white with the somber color at that stage, and several consider it strictly correct to go to the play, or even to the opera, in street dress. A fortnight after a death should send out mourning cards, as, for in- stance, ex-Secrelary Whitney did after Mry Whitney's death. The black bordered en- velopes sent to all the members of thelr vis- iting list enclosed the mourning cards of himself and daughter. Upon the receipt of these from the bereaved family cards should at once be left, but it is quite un- necessary to.see the family. The cards are simply given to the footman at the door. Also, before this announcement, cards should Do left as soon as the papers record the death, either the day before the funeral or after. Notbing should be writtea op them at either time; expressions of regret are under- stood by the courtesy of the card leaving. The somewhat village fashion of sending largo cards, stating the name of deceased and date, Is not considered in good tasto, though it 18 still clung to by those who care more for divectness than modishness. As to the ctiquette of flowers, funeral notices contain the desire to omit them that the attention is disappearing; however, It remains more a question of Indi- vidual taste than form. As to the period that those in mourning should deny themselves to visitors, there is a difference of opinion. Some women admit callers after three months, but, in all v the perlod should at least be this Widowa are frequently in retirement for six months, but should the felative be no nearer than a sister or brother, six weeks Is sufficlent. Of course, Intimatc filends are ually admitted from the beginning, as they are expected to write persenal notes as soon as knowledge of the death reaches them, the family 50 many always sending by messenger, never by mail. In the case of & felead or acquaintance dylng In a distant town, cards should be at once malled. In such matters there should be uo delay, for, Incongruous as it seems, to quote a fashion leader here, the etiquette of death is as strict as the etiquette of life. ADELE McALLISTER. BASKET BALL, A Popular and Graceful Game that Has Found Great Favor Among Girls, Basket ball is to the women's college what foot ball s to the men's. The Bryn Mawr girls are particularly en- thusiastic over this sport, and the Smith eol- lege students are in training for a match game some day Thanksgiving week. A picked nine from the sophomore class will be pitted against a picked nine from the freshman class. The Smith college girl 1s Immensely interested in basket ball, which she also calls cradle ball. At Bryn Mawr the students are equally as devoted to this game, indeed, their in- terest in it is tremendous, and vies with five o'clock teas and theatricals in mitigating the ennui of 'varsity life. The freshman and sophomore classes are particularly alive to this sport; Miss Elsa Bowman is the captain of the sophomores’ nine, while Miss Corinne Putman s the leader of the freshmen. WHY THE GAME IS POPULAR. The beauty of the game—or one of its beauties, for it has many—is that it can be played by any number, and the more the merrier, it is usvally voted. The ideal num- ber, however, is nine on each side. There 1s a goal keeper, two backs to assist, a cen- ter, a right and left center, two forwards and a home man (i. e, woman in this case). The end and aim of the game s to toss a ball, which is the size of a small foot ball, into one of the two large baskets suspended at each end of the field. The winning side is the one that lands the ball in the oppon- ents' basket. The basket is placed about ten feet high. When the game is played in the gymnasium tho basket is bracketed to the side of the wall. For outdoor use, it is supported at the same height by an upright post. The price of baskets or goals is $15 per pair for indoor use; when supplied with a pipe or post for outdoors, the cost is somewhat more. The balls, which are covered with leather and about twenty-four Inches in circumference, cost about $3 each; a rubber-coated ball can be purchased for $1.15. Basket ball can be played in a gymnasium, in a large room, or a small fleld, or a large feld; if in the latter, as many as thirty or fifty players may take part. APPROPRIATED BY WOMEN. The man who originated the game or in- vented it, or whatever the proper word may be, did not mtend it merely for amusement, his idea was to provide a good, all-around physical exercise, and as such it cannot be | improved upon, combining as it does r\ml\lu'j); jumping, bending and twisting; nearly eves muscle and joint in the*body is brought into exerclse. Mr. James Naismith of Springfield, Mas: originated basket ball about three years ago. As soon as it became known among the gym- nasiums it spread like an epidemic. Prima- rily intended for young men, for whom most of the good things of life are intended, it was soon taken up by young women, who de- clared that If there was anything good in tho game they would like to become ac- quainted with it, The girls forthwith bought a book of rules, which “they mastered in very brief order, donned thelr gymnasium costumes and began playing at once. The fine points of the game, however, wera only acquired by practice. RULES OBSERVED. The three players who are designated as “forwards” occupy the third of the ground nearest the oppoments’ goal; the ‘‘cent occupy the middle third, and the “backs” the defensive third of the ground. The *‘fo wards” of one team stand near the ‘‘backs of the other. Out of doors, with plenty of room, the fleld may be 150 feet long, the goal lines running through the baskets perpendicular to THE BASKETE. tho length of the field; the side boundaries 100 feet apart. The ball is put in play by the referee throwing it up in the middle of the field; this is done at the commencement of the game, at the beginning of the second half, after each goal and when a foul has been made. The time of play is two halves of twenty minutes each. A goal is made when the ball is thrown or batted from the ground into the basket, provided it stays in. It is a foul if the ball is struck with the fists or kicked. The ball must be held by the hands, the arms or body may not be used for holding it. No pushing, tripping, shouldering or strik- ing is allowed; infringements of this rule count as a foul. The score is counted by points. A goal counts three points; a foul, one point for the opponents. A majority of points decides the game, THANKSGIV, i SOUVENIRS, Charming New Favors that Will Be Ex- changed Between Friends. Brownies in all colors and attitudes are to be given as favors on Thanksgiving day, either sent as gifts or forming part of a dinner. The favorite device for a table souvenir is a sizable little fellow with a burdensome pack of chocolates on his back. For larger gifts are mounted by dozens on fancy boxes with bon bons. Two hundred of the packmen have been ordered from a candy store to supply a college dinner, the Brown- fes wearing striped sashes of orange and black. Sweetmeat boxes are all taking appropriate shapes for the day, and the foriunate women who are so pleasantly remembered will find thelr gifts artistically designed after turkey gobblers and wishbones. Some will be mounted by a sterling silver wishbone having a strip at the back which forms an easel and small hooks projecting to serve as pen rests. It will be a charming addition to one's writ- ing table. 1t is quite the best form to inclose in these boxes any small silver ornament, and quite a number of daintily bound prayer books and hymnals are to be sent with violets. This 1s an especially appropriate thought, as the holiday is observed with religious rites more than merry making. I have also heard of some exquisite rosaries as gifts to those in the Catholic faith. “But devices for the men are just as much desired as for the women,” sald one who was showing me some of the orders for Thanks- glving, “and,” she continued, “'you would be astonished to find how many men love candy. We have a constant stream that pours in, buying small boxes that they may hide in thelr coat pockets.” For thelr men friends women have ordered Brownles, of course, who, instead of earry- Ing chocolates, are loaded with cigars. Foot balls in favorite colors are designed in leather, tied with bows of velvet ribbon and filled with peppermints. Larger onmes are fitted up 1o hold pipes or cigars on a smoking table, Cigar boxes of papler mache are fitted out with chocolates, and high hats of black are bound with the college ocolors of the re- cetver and filled with bon-hons. The hats are made durable enough to serve as recep- tacles for invitations or cards. FOR FASHIONABLE WOMEN Que of the newest things to send a smart theater bonnet of the most pro glish type with the huge bow of_satin ribbon at the back and small gold or jeweled pointed crown. To this crown fn- stead of lining fs attached a sizabls silk bag filled with candies. When the lining is re moved the chic little bonnet serves its right- ful_use. These are some of the gifts for the day of thanks. As to decorations for that most important function—the dinner—chrysas- themums are to form a great part. How- themums aer to form a great part. How- ever, a noted Broadway florist ‘‘promoter” tells me he intends to introduce holly. This Is a decidod departure, as Christmas is the rightful legatee of that one of nature's be- quests, but this florist has the berry ready in the shop, and is going to use it on some ot his most fashiopable customers. He will form a huge wiskbone of it in the center of onoe table, making an outline of leaves about it; its joiningmplace will be accentuated by an heroic bow ef, hally red ribbon. At either end of the table will be great cut glass vases of American heauties. The favors are to be crimson satin; hand-painted boxes of bon- bons with tiny padiock and key of silver, that they may serve as handkerchief boxes after, t oo At one dinner m Jack Horner ple s to be made of papier mache; the slices designated for their owners by broad yellow satin ribbon attached, thebname painted on its surface. Each guest lsctodraw, amd will find his pet hobby impersonated. The man who has grown rich nmnufacturing stoves will get a toy stove. The sem who is fond of the races, a tin thoroughbréd; the daughter who is an expert golf player, finds her ball and stick, and so it goes: A dainty idea to be carried out by a Fifth avenue matron is to give to each guest as souvenirs, calendars for the coming year, the frontispieco being a masterly water color of tho guest, taken from a photograph and painted by a good portrait artist. It will be a souvenir to retain for one’s grandchildren. Potted plants are to constitute a most pop- ular remembrance, especially the great ragged Japanese chrysanthemums. They grow from elght to fifteen blooms, cost from $6 to $8, and last about four weeks, being, therefore, more satisfactory than other varieties of flowers. Terus are always desirable and the pot tied with a huge bow of carnation rib- bon constitutes as graceful an attention as the most tastidious woman would desire. PAVER FROCKS. Pretty Fancy Dresses Made of Improve Crope Paper. There Is a new wrinkle In dresses. As a matter of fact they are all wrinkles, for they aro made from the pretty crepe tissue paper that is far more crumpled than the horn of the cow that figured in the tale of the house that Jack built. Latest of all, a clever modiste, who had an order to produce something unique in a dress for a fancy costume party, where the gowns are all to be artistic and not comic, has made a dream of a dress of the new American paper crepe, which costs 30 cents a bolt or roll. 3 The model has for a skirt lining a ddinty white lawn petticoat with lace frills about the foot. As the tissue skirt is attached to it only at the belt, and Is tacked here and there below with easily removable threads, the pet- ticoat, after serving its assumed purpose as a lining, will, with a few snipped threads, be intact for its original use. The bodice lining is a ready made corset cover of fine muslin, which can be had in any of the shops for a quarter in a good fitting pattern. The fair wearer is to impersonate the “Spirit of the Edelweisse,” and the gown Is made of the white crepe paper with garni- tures of edelweisse blossoms, a suggestion of the palest pink being introduced to sug- gest the blush of the dawn upon the pure beauty of the snowy edelweisse. Each bolt. of the crepe supplies for 30 three and a third yards twenty inches The flowers can be had already made, or made to order, from any one of the now numerous manufacturing tists in erepe paper, or deft fingers can make them at home. For flower making it is economical to buy the smail pieces which measure ten by eighteen inches and sell for 35 cents a dozen. The edelwelase dress is not seamed up in either skirt or bodice, for although the paper fibre is surprisingly tough, prettier effects are had by catching the seams together, as in this instande, With knots of tiny blossoms. The pale pink is' introduced down one ‘side of the skirt unfler ‘overlapping breadths of the white, which are‘held by trailing clusters of the flowers, looking for ali the world natural enough to be the'real Alpine beauties. The bodice is low with a thny ruching of the pink about the shoulders, and falling away in place of a bertha ‘i a fringe of the blossoms. There are large ‘puffed sleeves of the pink, and the only seams in the bodice are on the shoulders and! under the arms, where the crepe is lapped and held with a single fine vine made of ‘the blossoms. All the strain, of course, is upon the lining underneath. An {mmensely fetching frock to be worn by a dashing brunette at a forthcoming jamart charitable bazaar, where she is to be encof the fashionable sales girls, is to be wholly in a beautiful ruby shade with trim- mings of ruby taffeta ribbon. Pale yellow would make a love of a dress, also paie vio- let, or apple green. In ordering either the violet or yellow it will be necessary to ask for the “medium’ shado in each case, as the shades listed by the dealers as “light” in these shades are too pale for evening wear. There is no limit to the combinations that can be made with the variety of tints to be had, and any pretty evening frock can be copfed in the crepe. A colored silk petticoat makes a good lining for a colored paper crepe dress, and the white corset cover could still be utilized if one did not care to go to the trouble of buylng colored lining, and the greater trouble of fitting it. Necessity is no longer the best mother to invention, Ingenulty has usurped the throne, Some Novel Fauney Work. The only real novelty in needlework that the season has shown so far is in part a re- vival. Tapestry work in old-fashioned cross stitch done on canvas was seen in some few in- stances last year, but not until this present autumn has the work been done upon fine sating and moire stripes. In this entirely fresh application the nov- elty lies. The method itself fs old, but the effect is entirely new and the work bids fair to become immensely popular. The very handsomest completed plece of work yet seen is a large sofa pillow of dull old blue. The material is heavy striped moire, combined with satin, and on these latter stripes the embroidery is done. The pattern is a slightly raised fleur de lis. It Is worked in all hued browns, and blending lines with lights of tender yellow. As it now stands the silk looks like some old and rare brocade, and the colors are a very delight. The perfect success has been obtained through the use of exactly the best colors. One ele- ment of crudity would have spoiled the whole. The woman whose pride the cushion Is is an artist, iostinctively she chooses the tones that do best work. Unless others who will follow in her wake are equally gifted they have need to pause and to gain advice The crude sample-like work of a generation or two ago. will not be tolerated now. The tapestry is like it only in the method by which it is done. The stitch itself any child can learn. The real effort lies in combining tones. Many of the dealers in needlework designs have bits of work started and pre- pared. The canvas s basted over the silk, the figure is complete to serve as & model and the necessary wools and silks for com- pletion accompany, each plece. Given such an outfit and such a start, there is no especial skill required to finish what is already be- gun. Care and neatness will accomplish. all that remains, but such servile following of a fixed plan can well become really interesting, and the more gmbitious workers prefer to se- lect thelr own, designs and to blend the dif- ferent colors themselves, Once the werk is done the threads of the canvas are drawp out and the embroidery rests directly upen the silk. Certainly the effect is unique, and when well done is charming. Piliows, cushions and the like are the objects used for the most part, but there are indications,of some larger pieces of worlk. One excessively gclever woman has begun a of bangings, 4ad It they at all fulfl thelr promise they will be simply gorgeous when all the work 13 dene. The mazerial is heavy furniture satin of & yellow brown tone. On it is to be a border top and bottom, worked with deep rich ends, black and occasional bits of yellow. The design is a purely con- ventional one, as are many of the Dbest Is carried out in wools for . uilk being ehosen for the yellow jone, which serves as & high lght and i3 seen in bits only. TEETHING BABIE! Some of the R Children Run in Cutting Thelr First Teeth. From the time a baby begins to teeth till the first molar is through his life fs not only burdensome to himsolt, but to every one else. Next to colie teething ranks as the greatest sleep destroyer, and, moreover, carries 8o many ills in its train that many little ones dle from either sheer lack of care or care wrongly expended. The first teeth come through at from threo to elght months, and are foilowed at in- tervals by the others. When the baby forces everything into his mouth and continually the teeth are shooting into the gums. Eome time after the first one, then another peepa through, and then follows a breathing spell In our grandmother's day every allment otherwise unaccountable, was laid to_ teething. Latter day doctors not only disavow this, but even go to the other extreme and claim that teething is a comparatively painless operation. This opinfon is not shared by mothers to any great extent, for_observation tends to prave the contrary. Bven slght pressure gives pain, while gentle rubbing cases the ache, The truth is, teething upsets the system, and so makes the inroad of disease easy. The stomach and bowels are especlally af- fected and from not being attended to produce convulsions, spasms, cramps, ete., and in- cidentally & very nice mortality. The stomach is nearly always the aggres- sor. Overfeeding is one cause, and unsuita- ble food, too heavy for the delicate organ to digest, fs another. Up to the sixteenth eenteal the UPPER AND LOWER SETS. month a baby needs nothing but milk. At this time the first molar is on its way, and cight mere teeth to come. A judicious diet will obviate a great many troubles otherwise encountered at this time, for the stomach and the eye teeth (canines) which follow the first molar, cause great disturbance to the system, which indiscriminate feeding fosters. The worst feature of teething is convul- fons, not only terrible to look upon them- selves, but leading to so many other evils, idiocy being the worst. Hot water is the sovereign cure, either a foot bath or full length. Thin' cloths dipped in cold water should be laid on the forehead, and if the doctor has not come by the time the baby recovers consciousness, give an anema of warm_water and castile soap. This causes the offending matter, if there is any, to pass oft; all after efforts must be made toward warding off other: A light diet, pure air, cool head and warm feet all tend to this end. The bowels require particular attention during teething. Any great irritability or fever can often be cured by a physic. If moderately loose, they need no care, but if bound, they must be looked after at once The mouth and teeth, too, need daily care. From the day a child is born its mouth should be washed out with pure warm water once in a while borax water, which not only sweetens the gums, but often pre- vents ‘‘sore mouth,” once considered a neces- sary adjunct of babyhood. As the teeth de- velop they should be carefully looked after, and any decay taken to a skillful dentist. The subjoined diagram shows the first and permanent sets complete. The central in- cisors are the fir be cut, at from the third to the elghth month. Then come the lateral incisors, up to the tenth month. The fist molar or bicuspid, up to the sixteenth month, the canine cr eye and stomach up to the twentieth month, and the second molar up to the third year. After this there is a cessa- tion of cutting, the first set being complete, up to the sixth year, when the molar known as the sixth molar, the first permanent tooth, comes in. These first teeth should never be pulled till ready to come out of themselves, with the idea of bettering the second set. This is anotlier idea relegated to the past. The roots of the first teeth are absorbed by the second, and the teeth shed when the permanent ones are ready to come through. Generally the longer the first are retained the better the second cnes are. This sixth molar is very often classed among the first teeth by mothers and allowed to decay unrestrained under the impression that another will follow. The dentist often is the first to tell them of their error. The first shed are the central incisors, at about § years, the lateral follow in another year, the first and second bicuspids in two more, the eanine next, and the second molar at about 12 years, which gives it the name of the twelve-year molar. The wisdom teeth are the last, and the set is generally com- pleted at 21 years, The lower teeth nearly always come through first, two or three months before the upper. When the operation is reversed many think it a herald of early death, of which, of course, examples are not wanting. A prominent chil- dren’s doctor says he has found a tendency to left-handedness to go with this condition, and cites many patients to carry out his theory. It is almost criminal for mothers to neglect thelr children’s teeth. Sweet stuff should be prohibited as tending to rot them, the daily cleansing insisted on, and an examination made every three months to forestall decay. Aching teeth should never be treated habitu ally with oll of cloves, creosote, etc,, because these only give present relief while assisting decay. A 25-cent bone filling will stop the ache and preserve the tooth, and be a cause of deep thankfulness in after years to both parent and child. The New South Wales legislature granted woman suffrage. Loulse Thorndyke-Boucicault, the not fully accepted widow of the famous and fickle Dion, is sald to be engaged to a rich Balti- morean. Fay Fuller, the young woman mountain- climber, is announced to leave Tacoma for Pendleton to be city editor of the Tribune. Mrs, Humphrey Ward is said to have made $80,000 from ‘David Grieve,” the same mount from “Marcella,” and $10,000 from Robert Elsmere." The biography of James G. Blaine is now being written by Mrs, Blaine. The book will be published simultaneously on both sides of the Atlantic. In some of the London schools swimming is included among other branches of study. Three thousand girls were taught to swim during the past year. Mrs. Charles Dudley Warner is said to be the best amateur musician in New England Most of the able criticisms so prominent throughout Mr, Warner's writings are due to her influen Mrs. Frank Burnside is clerk to Prof. Langley, head of the Smithsonian Institute and National Museum. She is an invaluable “globbers" | mark they can even occupy the position of head of the department, and are admitted as stenographers in Pariiament. Gardening for women I8 engaging attention in_Germany, and a horticultural school for glrls and women (s shortly to be opened In Borlin. It s proposed to teach all branches of gardening, and to devote especial atten- tion to the production of fruit. mparative religions” in the Chicago Uni ersity, Mrs. Caroline E. Haskell expects to accomplish a great deal for the world, though it is a fact that most people in Chicago and some outside of it are suffering not so much from a lack of kniwledge of religion as from Indisposition to prastice it In her eagerness to demounce the one and only Joseph H. Coate because of his anti- equal suffrage infiuence in Albany, the equally one and only Mrs, Lillie Devereux Blake sald, in a speech before the Woman Suffrage assoclation in Ithaca, “I want to rake Mr. Rufus Choate, president of the convention, over the coals." There |s a mining camp called “‘Bachelor's Rest” about sixty miles north of Tucson, Ariz,, and the population now numbers up- ward of 800. There is not a woman nor a cat in the camp, and 200 men have advertised for wives in a Tucson paper. They must be of good character and ynderstand the duti of a household. ‘The tfehest miner offers a dowry of $10,000. ; which is a co-educational institution, have the courage of thelr convictions. They do not believe in wet, bedraggled skirts, and are pledged to the number of fifty to appear in reform dress on the next rainy day. Miss Maybelle Feusler is the origniator of the movement. Most of the dresses will be black. The skirts will come only to the top of the boots and leggins will be worn. pas: dinie- " adbabaly The South Atrlean Ploture Stome. An account of a strange lapidarian freak comes all the way from Kimberley, South By her gift of $20,000 to found a ‘“chair of | The women of the Univérsity of California, Afric orkmen 1o ¢ that place discovered color_and about the i which, viewed In a dark place with a oa or other light behind ft, exhibits a perfoct profile picture of a man from the walst up. Turning the pebble partially around, the image of the man vanishes and tho features of a woman's face, clear-cut and partly com- cealed by heavy tresses, comes Into view. The British museum offers 60 for the curle osity. dlamond mines L.ocomotor Ataxia. Epilepsy . . .. AND ALL DISEASES OF THE SPINAL CORD FIND READY AMZLIGRAMON FROM THE USE OF MEDULLINE, THE EXTRACT O THE SPINAL CORD OF THE O%, PREPARED UNDER THE FORMULA OE Dr. WM. A. HAMMOND, IN HIS LABORATORY AT WASHINGTON, D €. Dose, 5 drops. Price, two drachms, $2 50, Columbia Chemical Co.,’ WASHINGTON, D. C. SEND ron @oon. . KUHN & CO. AGENTS FOR OMAHA. Lecture will take place at 230 p. m. by Congre Mme. Yale's rex the crown of her queenly head to th Time to lay one withering finger mark on hor. beauty and instruct them to do likewiso. than 18, In her Physieal Culture act Mme. Waorth to show off to advantas give the necossary exe for mu of Beauty Culture as a profession the greatest authority living 1 br n beauty. Mume. Yale, the famous lecturer yesterday in the Detroit Opera Houso, illustr. beauty, whi There is no extravagance in sayinz that Mm world, nor has there been anyone to ¢ countess of usteld. Like her, Mme, Y what she has don ny other woman ean do. her lovely arms, neck and face wou!d lult curling locks of golden hair, her br of admiration from the nudienc The el culture drill, in which the grace and flexibit beantiful pictures. Tho fair locturor held b her racy conversational address iu proven I Saturday, offor money. assistant on account of ber capability of grasping details. Mrs. Charles Robinson of Lawrence, Ka: wife of the ploneer governor of that sta the other day told the story of his life to & phonograpn eylinder, which Is to be pre- served in the State Historical soclety. A student of the School of Applied Design for Women in New York, who submitted an architectural design for a $40,000 bospital bullding io_San Francisco, had her design accepted. The other competitors were men. In Norway and Denmark women have the same standing as men, and the same salarios in ‘he postal and telegraph servico. In Den- ale will wear & costum the outlines of her faultloss figure, and also to enable her ta ing perfect the famale form. demonstrated interested person on Dec. 1st, At 2 p.m our e People will not buy diamonds and silver now unless they can do so at & bargain, MME. M. YALE, To Lecture m OMAHA, At Boyd’s Opera House, FRIDAY, DEC. 7. MME. M. YALE, The Celebrated Beauty and Complexion Specialist from the Temple of Beauty, Chicago, Will Lecture to the Ladies of Omaha, ——ON THE SUBJECTS OF— Health, Beauty, Physical Culture, The Com- plexion and Hair. ! Ladles are advised to secure thelr soats in advance Tickets now on sale at the box office of Theater, 50c. b Mme. Ya'e was awarded the highost honors trom the Worla's Fair, and Is endo reed t;kable beauty has created a sensation all over the world. Perfect from soles of her shapely little fect, she defies old Rather She will tell the ladies how she cultivated her Mume. Yalo Is 42 years old, and doos not look mere ospectally designed for her by Mum>. Yale s the creator Gvery lady should hear her, as she 1a From the Detroit Free Press, Oct. 26, |89%.: nd complextonist, addressod a large audience of ludies ing 1 stood the test of tha strong eleetrical 1izhts without rovealing a single blemish Yale 15000 of the most biautitul wom ible her since the duys of Lola Monte lo has produced her own b She do sata i balanco liant eyes, w 1ng ps ¥ of Mui aulience spoll-bound durlng three hours by hor lecturo with her own remarkable in the , the baautitul uty, and she claluis t hositats to glve her ago as 42, while batween childhosd and youth, Her b their long lashes, catlud forth exprassions of tha n was dovoted to n physizal Yalo's dalnty fizure formod a serles of 1t is an 1) Win:l— That Blows Nobody Good,*? Is a saying that has often been true, and its truth will be 1o more than one when we commence to tire stock at auction. We ave obliged to have Evcry article warranted as vepresented. JOHN BAUMER, JEWELER, 214 S. 15th St. J. D. LEWIS, Auctioneer. N. BoA handsouss present given away at close of each sale. < - | 4 i ] i | |