Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, November 18, 1894, Page 18

1894 raising and served with bolled custard, frult and ocoffee, cream cheese and crackers with some sort of preserve. TAPKSTRY WE THE OMAHA DAILY BEE: SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 18, bamboo sereens, gorgeous show oases and well concealed appointments This pressing down of the cuticle is es- sential for well shaped nails. If the operation produces any raggedness a keen pair of scis- sors should clip it off. The scissors, the mani- curist Insists, must be of careful selection The pair that does service for clipping thread 1t s | of cloth will ruin the skin. The points should be very fine to insert under this hem of the nail. As cold weather approaches women try to devise means for preventing hands and lips from chapping. An excellent remedy to pre- vent chapping Is cold cream. The manicurist told me that it aleo whitens the skin more than any preparation, It has taken the place of the old-time remedy—mutton suet. It should be well rubbed into the skin and gloves—preferably -white slipped on. The palms of the gloves should be glit In several places to allow’ (hé air and prevent cramp of the muscles,‘4nd'the finger tips elipped off Vaseline shoujd never be allowed to touch the hands. It turps the skin yellow and leaves a stain on the nails that is hard to clear away. In winfer cold Whter should be used spar- ingly. Its activfi foughens the skin unpleas- MME. M. YALE'S CELEBRATED EXCELSIOR GOMPLEXION AND HERLTH REMEDIES Received the Highest Honors | the World’s Fair, ENDORSTD BY CONGRESS, AMERIC A, Ita Possiblilties as & New and dustry for Women. Eighteon months is the age of America's tapestry industry. The venture has suc- ceeded as woll, if not better, than could be hoped. Several commissions have been ac- csptably fllled, and the business, though yet small, is growing strong and health The artisans are fmported from France. There are only six looms at the little new industry, and one woman who works there from inclination more than necessity is the lovely young daughter of the master work- man, Mlle. Foussardier is both deaf and dumb, but weaves with deft, artistic fingers that astonighes older artists. The quostion of (his tapestry weaving as a new and paying vocation for women is now being looked into. A very wealthy woman from St. Louls, deeply Interested in all such advancements, has been inquiring of the promoter of the industry in New York aylng In- for the listener, be it man or woman. useless to deny that for human nature the first person singular is the most agrecable | conjugation in grammar. And this brings | up a final bit of advice which isgne of the | well known arts of conversation—be a patient sympathetic listenar. For it Is essentially | true that he who proves you a clever talker | | by his attention, will impress you more with | his cleverness than had he talked. SERVING W1 Eutquotto to Be Observed by the Who Pours Wine. In the matter of serving wines alone lies | a good deal of the success or fallure of the tout ensemble of an elegant dinner. The hostoss who elects to pour ont wines at her | table should at least take pains to have them cater to the best taste, otherwise they | Hostess TP SR — B B 8/ B 288 RIB | ar to Even- ctions This Win 3 NEW YORK, Nov. 14 Special.)—In the | splendid oid days of patch and powder, of high heels and rouge and stately brocade, | when the fashion for mounting the hair on | wvast cushions came in, the sedan chair that took Beiinda to the rout underwent also a | change. Its roof has raised a pair of feet at least, and curved into a dome to accommodate her towering topknot; and today it seems almost as If long dead Belinda’'s sweet descendant | must soon need wings added to her carriage, in order that her ever growing sleeves and many gored skirt may likewise travel to the dance in unrued excellence. Some of the new evening broca ades, which, we are told, are soon to take the place of the more matronly moires, are enchanting revela- tions. In texture they scem created to en- dure longer than life itself; and, together with new and novel designs, are seen many of the dainty patterns of the long ago. One, with a cold white background, strewn with wreaths or magenta pink rose tled with ribbons of the same shade. An- other I8 shown with little foolish rosebuds, red, with stiff stems and green leaves, like the decorations on old Dresden china powder is another has a tea-white background, that tender and adorable shade of pink-white only made by pouring milk into the most | perfect of teas. This was scattered with loose bouquets of Cosmos flowers; which mysterious blossoms, in velvet, and rich wallflower tints, gar- landed the low, square, tea-white gauze walst, FEATURES OF THE COSTUMES. The short slceves of this bodice, than which nothing seemed more elaborate or more be- coming, were of accordeon plaited gauze, mounted over satin in full puffs, and which | had the downward and outward droop that now distinguishes all sleeves. Below the left bust line was a striking and | somber note in all this truly gaiety; three | large Cosmos blossoms in sooty-black satin, | trailing heavily from the colored corsage | bouquet. They were there, however, with motive in- tent. ~ Black, it seems, in bold, brief touches In unexpected quarters, is a winter punctua- tion for some of fashion's most delicate com. positions. In the same way, through the most modish illustrations, we are made to see that the slight drooping of a narrow belt in front will Increase an effect of waist slightness. A bodice, too, with a round, half-high neck, is a kindly aid to too generous proportions. A slight figure, on the contrary, a girl divinely tall, and, of course, divinely fair, may wear her corsage literally tumbiing from thin shoulders. TO SUIT ALL STYLES. Bones, it sufficently well hung and en- dowed with that youthfulness beloved of painters, can never offend; but flesh Is a thing to be handled with discretion, and a round, baby bodice Is a young and becoming bridging of some of these difficultics, To be worn with the brocade skirts de seribed, as well as those of quite as splendid 11k, come diaphanous textiles of every color and description, to be fashioned into the upper garment. The stiff rustling silk or satin of the pompadour petticoat never repeats itself in tho bodice, this being made exclusively in chifton, mousseline de soie, crepe, and even tulle, either plain, jeweled or spangled Chiffon walsts for plain skirts, however, ar. sometimes brocaded quite as gorgeously some of the new silks. Indeed, chiffons wer. Dovor seen before in such vast profusion anc varlety, but a proper foundation is certainly one of the most important points in thel: making up. Distinet contrasts in color between the cloudlike drapers and silk o satin foundations, are much in favor, anc wonderful opaline effects, as elusive as moon beams themselves, are made by mounting one color over another to the number of throo and four, and even six. . FOR OLDER WOMEN. But along with these dashing novelties In brocade and gauze, there are entire even- Ing gowns in velvet and tin, and oc- caslonally one of silk, such as was spoken of In our mother's day as “standing alone.” The skirts of many of these are made after the French circular model, which hangs very full about the feet, A few have a suspicion of a train. Others aro only slightly longer, and all are without the wire braid of the Paquin street garmena A pleasing featurs of numbers of these skirts is their absolute plainness, but the illustrations give some of the latest Parisian hints for effective trimming and draping. DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIONS. ‘Phe first gown of the serles is entirely of pale pink velvet with a tablier drapery of white lace and decorations of real swallows. The bodice, whose square, untrimmed neck line Is the quintessence of simplicity, buttons at the left side, and the lace drapery is | finished at the back with long strings that | tle at the waist in a smart, bunching bow. | An enchanting confection in changeable green and white satin, and which is shown In the foreground of tho group drawing, has skirt and bodice decorations of butter-colored lace aod a blouse vest of lizard-green chiffon. A narrow belt of emerald passe- menterie finishes the waist, and here, as in the other two models, the bulging effect of | the short, puffed sleeves Is made by cutting | the material straight across the top and put- ting the curved and chief fullness at the sldes. | ‘The costume next this beautiful skirt, with | Its graduating Van Dyke points, is of heavy white silk with black tulle, jet and lace trim- mings. The fourth and last confection, however, is, with 1ts little air of piguant dignity, the most fetching of them all. Pale maize satin, thick as the proverbial board, amethyst vel- vot, white lace and white chiffon, composed the divine origlnal of this model. Together with the other toilets expressed, it may be accepted by tall, slight figures as in- fallibly becoming, and as affording the best | possible ideas as to what French women of | the haute monde are now wearing, Paid by Artists to Those ‘Whe tiuy Thelr Costumes, Kto, A young Missouri glrl who went to New | York recently to carn her living has worked | t & new vocation that Is at once original and profitable. Possessing artistic taste and an excellent senso of selection she is em-| vloyed' by artists to do the shopping for| thelr studios. She has been much among! Now York wieldors of the brush and once a | weok goes around to the studios seeing what | the owners need in the way of drapery or| background for some new picture, To such large studios as New Yok boasts —aspocially where classes are held and many | models engaged, there is always a demand/ for some modern or antique paraphernalia for the poseur. If the subject is one of | fashic | tor the peculiar set of the hat, but it scems reads up all the information to equip her for shopping. | Froquently, when a large piece of work 1s | under consideration, the artist pays her for | her time, instead of a commission. This was recently done when a big hotel had its necessary artist secured her to get scriptions of costumes of this iie paid car fare, for her luncheon and | $3 a d She filled this eontract in the | most helpful and conscientious manner vand | is confidently looking forward to several such orders for the winter from artist decorators It is by no means easy work. Brain and | fingers both play a steady part, for she| the garments after buying the ma- terfal, and sometimes the veriest trifle takes up hours of her time. As for tnstance. A noted artist wanted a Jainsborough hat. The order sounded sim- ple. So she went directly to a Fifth avenue designer of frames and left the order, stipu- lating that it should be of the genuine type, not the latter day nineteenth century edi- tion. The frame came in a most up-to-date shape as seen in the Galety Girl. ~Back it went and desigoer and shopper, went out and | took a sketch of the duchess of Devonshire's | headgear. Again and again have they tried pictures with de that era. For as much of a lost art as the old biue of the| Italian masters. She thinks her profession In time will be equally as remunerative as the ordinary shopping on commission or house decoraling. She intends to establish a regular office and send out circulars suggesting that artists | throughout the country write to her for | materials. She goes through a course of reading and study each day of mythology and history of all nations, so her selections may be absolutely accurats HOW TO TALK TO ME A Soclally Successful Woman Ad taln ¢ onvorsational Method There s a Turkish legend that gives a good index to this part of social ethics. A mendicant was dylng He called his son to his bedside and said: “My boy, you must go through life trusting to yourseif now. I can leave yon no money but much wisdom | and this mirror. Carry it always with the back to your own face, presenting the mir- rored surface to the world.” passed on and the boy rich merchant. into his coffers as he walked through the | world, his shining shield reflecting all he met. Contentment came with these riches, | mendicant then agreeable? possess riches? first time toward his charmed. and glorified. What oceult magnetism do I | to so easily compel this flow of | own He face. was He saw himself in its shim: agreeable td bé with—a laughing, enchanting pictur Gold there was none him by unsmiling, left. He wondered, when not and he died, poor and forgotten, The legend is to socioty as the laws of | the Pundit to the Bralmins. It explains all. | A SWALLOW GOWN Go through life reflecting people, not as they are, but as they wish to be, and the good things of the world are yours. Why present to any man an ugly image of himself when his faults can be ignored and his virtues pleasingly presented without seeming ostentation or flattery? Some veritist may exelaim that such an attitude s not a falr one—but now prove his theory. There need be no “toadying," no cringing, no “playing for favors,” but the brighter side of each man's life suggested to him by conversation Another claim to remembrance Is this: Said a soclety woman known for her tact, and quantity of friends, whom I queried as to her soclal tactics, “I have a plan—possibly notoriginal, but certainly successful—of Ig- noring the especlally pleasant thing a man necessarily knows sbout himself. Kach one has a particular accomplishment that this world invariably ‘tacks’ to his name. He is pleased, of course, to possess this one accom. plishment, but rest assured he secretly won. ders If it can be the sum total of his at- traction. So I try to discover some other quality. I find if he has the virtue of dress- ing well—then I also discover some im- mensely clever remark of his. I make a point of mentioning It to him. “If, on the other hand, he s clever, then 1 particularly admire a cortain suit of clothes, or the fashion (n his ties. If he dances well, then I find that be bas made some good busi- ness deals. Be perfectly sure, my dear, he will think you vastly more appreciative than any other woman, and the undefined grati- tude he feels at the bright side of himsel you have reflected back, brings you a delightful attention.” ‘And sho conoluded, “this s not hypoerlsy in me, nor silly vanity in him, T love to be treated after that manner myself, and my gratitude is equal to the man's." A third point is to remember, it possible, what a man talked most Interestingly or carnestly to you about the last time you met, It shows interest in a most subtle way. Dbetween visits are long and you meet a goodly number of men. But if it is possible to re- member the result will prove its wisdom. Antiquity, then she goes to the libraries, “As you once said,” has a penetrating charm many | proved, and she said smilingly “that she had Naturally 1his is no easy task if the lapses | curiosity. . Why, he thought, am I so loved? | glass exclusively is that What do T that men should call me fair and | wine may be enjoyed, as it can not be in And he turned the mirror for the | less sediment. Lost fn rapture and love for him- | basket selt he paused. in his way thereafter gazing | servant, into the exquisite depths of his father's gift. | were made of | An Hour's Solitude | mar instead of enhancing the repast. The fashionable authority in this country on banqueting, Mr. Louis Sherry, was way- | laid the other day upon his return from Europe and ask:d for his opinion with regard to the serving of wines,. “The tendency. ho sald, “is to serve fow and better wines, champagno that they drink it at all tim for luncheon, dinner, supper, when not? But wine connoisseurs have critical palates for | several other wines. ceflings painted after FI ren ine de igne. This | “Those who were serving but two varieties should begin with a good Rhine wine as Chablis, and follow it with'champagne. ¥or a dinner of several courses the order might well be as follows: WIith the oysters, Chab- lis; soup, shercy; fish, hock; releves, Bor- deaux; entrees, champagne; game, Burgund with the sweets, Madeira; and after the coffee, liqueurs; the latter are. generally brandy and at least ons other, as char- | treuse or beredictine. Colored glasses and those of fantastic shapes are no longer used on elegant tables. Pure white, and a perfectly plain style, is preferred by many people. At most, there is a delicate tracery of gold about the rim and the shape preferred resembles hall an eggshell, get with the rounding end upon a slender ‘stem. This, in regulation goblet size, is placed for water; a somewhat lower and more rounding one for Burgundy ler glass than that for Burgundy haped precisely like the goblet for water, but a third smaller s for champagne. Sherry is scrved in a glass of the same shape; but much smaller, and yet a little larger than the smallest of all glasses, those for the liqueurs. The liqueu: glasses are not set upon the table, but are passed after the coffee is served with the decanters, each guest helping himself from the decanter he prefers. It s oftenest of the shape of a clay pipe bowl, and but two or three times larger than a thimble. Where champagne is served and no other wine, a mall plain tumbler is often used, one with stiaight sloping sides, without stem It is no longer thought to be “good form' to load a table with glasses. ~ Three or four are put on at first, and others are ordered as they are wanted. Wine glasses, by th: way, should be lifted by the stem daintily, with the fingers, when there is a stem, and not grasped about the bowl or clutched with the fist as many people, who should know better, still do. Whits wines are all preferred cold. Red wines are served of the temperature of th room. Some connolsseurs elect to have them stand on a mantle above a wood fire to Infuse into them just the right spirit. Bordeaus (more commonly called claret) is iced by some people, to the horror of cpi Gold” had poured | cure: e wines, and others not under consid ation, are to be sipped, not gulped, in ord | that their aroma and flavor may be enjoyed. The reason for the introduction of the white the cclor of th tinted vessels Old Burgundy and Bordeaux form more or If shaken in their bottles this imparts a harsh taste to the wine. To 1t gave back his features beautified | prevent this the bottles that are to be servel | chould be stood up for the twenty-four hours mering surface a creature fair to behold, | previous; when the time comes for erving may be inclined upongthe side in a for the purpose, and poured by @ who landles the basket as it it pun gl Or they may be they People’ passed | decanted in clean decan'ers, slowly tilling the bottle and pouring off the clear wine, absorbed with self, why this condition was, | joaving the sediment and a little wine in the boitle. Set a candle light behind the bottle when decanting, and stop pouring when the fitmy threads or webs appear in the wine. ANERVE TON Day Helps a Busy Womun. To be alone for a few hou ery day should be a fixed habit in a woman's life. Thera is a deal of benefit to be acquired from a short season of solitude, snatched amid the toil and struggle of daily existence It is due oue's selfhood, and once behind closed doors, the family, friends and servants should be educated to respect the temporary seclusion, Make yourself physically comfortable Stretch yourself upon your couch, let the tired nerves down from their usual tension It is weli to sleep a little, but do not make an effort for repose, just let go, and fall to idle musing, child fashion, if° you will. When perfect rest ensues in the peace and stillness, call yourself to order in the soll- tude of your own chamber, through this sacred hour you may review yourself, your character, your environment, your efforls and resuits” without fear of criticism other than your own. Do this healthily and hap- pily, not morbidly. Review vour immediate past and present as you would reckon your accounts up to date, then muster your forces as a general would his army. In this way you. will be enabled to steady your pur- Doses and think out the difficuit paths that lead to the results you so much desire to accomplish. It is in this precious time alone that a woman may get Individuality, originality, strength, decision, directness, stunning quali- tios out in the maelstrom of the world life; for stir, self-consclousness and the influence of others often deflect a woman from her purpose unless she has acquired stendfastness of resolve as a principle. Even in material mattérs; if puzsled over & bit of work, put it aside for the hour of solitude, then it will probably open up its own method of completion to you, having your undivided attention. The proper use of solitude teaches a woman independence; she has pleasure and profit within herself, and she no longer relies on others.to provide these for her. An hour of waiting when a train has been missed or a friend Is late should be ac- cepted, not as a time of enforced idleness and impatience, but as an opportunity in which to think and to plan for future ac- complishment, One little woman conflded to me how she taught herself the usefulness of solitude. She was not strong, elther in merve or body, and hours of quiet, free from all dis- traction of sight or sound were required to keep her even physically comfortable. She first sought solitude as an animal when it goes off alone to dle, and she lugged all her pains and woes along with her. 1n her fatigue every ecvil thing she could think of would array itself against her like a definite foe, until it came to her that she would put aside everything painful, and shut it all out with sweet remembrance by trying to realize all the pleasant pluns and people and things she has ever known. The presence In her mind of past hap- piuess sweetened her heart and her nature flowered like & rose garden, her health im- swept out of the shadow into the sunshine through the blessing of solityde.” Care of the Hands. “Every the towel. This gives the desired length and prevents hang palls The statement was wmade by & manicure or rather reclined on the low cushioned seats, amid a bewildering vista of Japanese lanterns, speclalist, s I sat in her artistic room: time you wash your hands press the cuticle softly back from the nalls with antly. household ammenis and a good lather castile soap or borax soap is advisable. the hands are inclined to redness the trouble |lies in the way of cireulation, and slight | gymnastics will tefiove It. | "o remove stains from the skin or | uso a few dropsof oxalic acid in water, mak- ing the solution extremely mild. at the cost of § cents. Mny women are- worried dency to perspire freely in which Tuins their gloves. This pensive distemper, for I know spoil new gloves simply in wne wearing this use magiesia, by | a the is constant palms, FOR HOME RECEPTIO} pulling on the g Rigorously adhered to the effect Is entirely desirable. to be considered. One of ridges. These form lengthwise on the nall, quite spoiling the shapa. This is due to weakness and can be “amateurly’ eated by constant dipped in pink enamel powder, for the caus is due to ens. of the nail. Just to run it _rapidly through the hair or over a plece of «cloth tends the finger. Fcf, th put up by manicuriits, but they a cate the fri of chamols skin as the most helpful application, S THANK GIVING DINNER MENUS, How to Serve 'n Tasteful Feast the Thurkday in November. “Oh! for sorha kind friend to suggest menus within my means for a dainty, appo- tizing Thanksgiving dinner,” sighs the economical littid honsewife, who is obliged tc live on a limited allowance; perhaps cannot even afford a maid-of-all work. Besides cooking the meals she must see that the are served In a tempting manner so t tired, over-worked James will thoroughly enjoy his well sepsoned steak and potatoes and not remark Jhow much better they are to be had at a chop house or restaurant. Hore then are some simple, Inexpensive menus for just such a busy woman which ave calculated to produce good cheer and a grateful spirit on this near approaching day of thanks, I one wishes to_go “from oysters to walnuts” on a Thanksgiving day feast, they can do it with comparatively small ex- pense. Little neck clams being cheaper than oystors, will do for the first course, served in the half shell. Then a cream tomato soup s good and economical. For the third course have roast turkey, small white onfons boiled and served with arawn butter, mashed potatoes and baked sweet ones and the inevitable cranberry sauce or Jelly. For relishes, home made plckles and salted peanuts instead of al- monds, being much less expensive and con- sidered by some quite as good, celery and olives, celery salad with mayonnaise, or a plain lettuce salad with French dressing will do. Next comes a home made mince ple, nuts, raisins, fruit and coffee. Here s still another simple menu for such an_occasion. Oysters on the halt shell. Cream of celery scup. Roast turkey with chestnut stuffing Potatoes mashed and formed in cones, then brushed over with beaten egg and placed in the oven to bro Boiled caulifiower with cream sauce and celery. French canned string beans put in the ice chest until they have become very cold, then drained and tossed in French dressing, makes a delicate and deiicious salad. A bolled home made plum pudding with wine sauce, a pumpkin pie, nuts, raisins and coffec is a pleasant finish to this modest ast. Or here fs still another, from the foregoing menus. Creamed turkey soup. Boiled turkey with iee stuffiing and oyster sauce, Riced potatoes. Scalloped tomatoes, Boiled onfons and cranberry. Celery, pickles and salted almonds, A bouquet salad can follow, made of hard boiled eggs, leaves, a few nasturtium blossoms \and mayonnaise dressing. For a dessert a Dutch apple pudding, lemon ple, nuts, raisins, fruit and coffee, Or this: A minced clam or oyster soup. tarkey. Bolled ham. Stuffed Rice croquettes. Cranberry. Crackers and cheese. Nuts, cream and coffee. Here is still another. Little neck clams on the half shell. somme. A pair tame ducks roasted. Mashed and browned . potato. Brussel sprouts. Bolled onfons. ,Cranberry. Celery, pickles, salted peanuts, olive lettuce salad, French and cheesé. Mince pie. raisins, fruit and coffee. Last quite different tomatoes. Celery salad. raisins, ice dressing. Lemon Jelly. Nuts, ner: cheap & soup s ean be made. A | bought at few pennies. way for nothing A pint ns soaked over night and boile hours the next day with the ham makes & very ‘tasty soup. Roast turkey, plain bolled potatoss with melted butter, cranberry, celery, pickk Tepid water with a very few drops of of It nails This should and Americans have so decided a liking for | be rubbed under rad about the nails with a es, | tiny ash stick, which comes for the purpose an ex- women who For Get it in square blocks and rub it thoroughly iuto the skin before There are small diseases of the nails also use of the nail polisher weakness and this method strength- Another trouble js an aggravating eplitting to take the entire pdie off down, to the level of there is.a tonic that is ain advo- lettuce, only the tender white Roast Con- Water cress and Crackers | Or if one wished & very Inexpensive din- Bean soup as & first coursd is about as am_ bone | & pork store where cold boiled | ham is sold by the slice can be had for a Often they will give them white beans slowly for bone bollgd onlons served celery salad, poor man's rice pudding with City. The master workman says he willing to try any of the women who want to learn. the samo number of hours. In France women have never been em- ployed except as seamstresses to mend the splits caused by changing colors. I asked him why this was so. “I couldn’t definitely say,” he answered. “Men have been the workers at the looms by tradition in France The weavers at Gobelin and Aubussen been born on the looms, 8o to speak fathers were weavers before them, the art is handed down as a legacy. Why wormen thould not fill the position 1 see no reason. Ther sense of selection in color is usuglly, finer and more discriminating than a man's. But they should begin quite early in life, I think, 10 years being about tight. “It takes fully four years to serve one's apprenticeship, and few women who are past 20 want to take the time to start.” Should the plan of this rich woman suc- ceed the result would be admirable. Her scheme is this: To take overworked women from crowded factories and tenement rooms, where they live underfed and scantily clothed, and place them In clean, little houses about a factory, giving them good work and good food. Still, the Industry is too new in America to provide 10r any corps of workers, but the owners are going to show the million- aires here that it will be possibie to sell them as fine bits of tapestry as are now be- ing made in France. As Lo the personnel of the factory, X has only six looms and they are of the low weave. The French are traditionary in (heir methods of working and have progressed little from the manner of the okler days of weaving. It is an interesting fact that the loom Mile, Foussardier weaves at is almost identical with the one used by Pene- lope. M. Foussardicr lives there with his family, and an interesting addition are six _liitle boys from the Catholic Orphan asylum, who have been apprenticed through the interest of Mr. John D. Crimmins. These children are alrcady making salable chair covers. The boys got $2 a week for the fir.t year, and are now getting Each year it will be raised, a promise of $8 a week being made for the fourth year, Tha Frenchmen are delighted with the fect of the Bronx river water in dyelng. iz well known that ment and that the and ef- 1t this is an essential ele- superiority of the dyes of the Gobelin is ascribed chiefly to the properties of the water from “La Bievr in the suburb cf St. Marcel, where a famil of the nmame of Gobelin e:tablished dye works in the fifteenth century. Consider, therefore. what it means for America when the master workman pronounces the Bronx water superior to the Bievre, and, in turn, his dyes (o the Gobelins. ~ Auother department open for abler women is the preparing of the cartoon. This is now being done in a Fifth avenue studio by meu. CONTAGION THROU HAIR BRUSE A Langer So Common that Women ferious Risks of Infection. A bair prush can communicate diphtheria, measles, chickenpox, scarlet fever, smallpox, “yeltow fever and cholera. It can also com- municate tcald head, tetter and many ma- tological troubles, and under conditions of abrasion and contact convey blood poisoning. This is startlng, but a truth that should be romembered by those careless in allowing the use of their brush and comb, and also by frequenters of hair dressing establish- ments, Brush and comb matter, even with its component part of oil which would tend to preserve it, {8 putrescible and fermentable. Every one is aware of this theory, but th do not seem alive to the other incontroverti- ble fact that both these toilet articles are deadly disease carriers. One brushing on the head of a diseased person, or one who has been in a contagious atmosphere, will transmit as many as 1,000 germs to the brush from the hair; some of the:e in turn to be conveyed to a second and thrd per 2nd o0 on, until the disease is broadcast. The exterior of the human head, as all know, is a fine field for bacterial life, and a person who touches or breathes the air of contagion would find, if she had her hair chemically analyzed, that it was alive with germs—as much £o as her clothes. This is especially dangerous in woman for reason of ther vgry long hair. She disinfects her garments, but not her head. How can the woman who goes to have her hair sham- pooed or bullt up know but what the very brush that is used in the work may have seen service on the head of a woman who was nursing a sick child or just come from the hospital? There is no way to prove that the brush has been anizeptized, which is probably never the case. A physician who has carefully examined brush and comb matter gives these sta- tistics regarding it: Water oil A Nitrogenous matter. THydrocarbus (other’ than oil). Im3 Tuorganic matter, dust, dirt.. 8 All this matter is fine food for the little animals, technically termed bacteria and ba- cillf, and consequently they thrive there. Many physicians who are given to labora- tory work and know the vast amount of contagious matter carried about in brushes wonder why health authorities who are do- ing such good work in closing the chinks and apertures through which contagion enters ignore this deadly method of transmission. Take the large shops with their one set of toilet articles, where 200 or 00 women ar- range their hair, as a place equally as dan- gerous as the hair dressing cesorts. These women shoilld be compelled to use au indi vidual brush. It (s an unwritten law of etiquette, of course, to use only one’s own toflet articles in polite society, but <all humanity are not registerod in this book, and while contagion from this source is ac- knowledged by all physicians, a law should bo_enforced. A woman should constantly look to it that these two articles should be carefully cleansed and washed with & mild solution of carbolic ecfd. that were floating through the alr (and to belleve the medical scientists, no altitude is too high or depth too low for their float- ing existence) may have alighted on her hair and been whisked cff into the hairs of the brush. If she is cleanly she has her hair regularly shampooed, but her brush and Run . 105 aerts 201 liness. In this is her salvation. Fashilon Notes. in Paris. Large smoked pearl buttons are seen tatlor-made jackets. Velvets hand embroidered with beads are used for mantles, Plaid velvet and spangled satin ribbons are favorite trimmings for dresses. Handsome bullion embroidered in Renals- sance patterns lald over velvet forms the crown of many fancy bonnets. The most popular fur cape s from twenty to twenty-four inches deep and is of close tur, like Persian lamb, seal or otter. Feather boas are worn shorter, only reach- Ing to the walst, and the latest novelty is | attached to a collar of ostrich tips, graduated in size and turning away from the neck. The new handkerchiefs are unusually small, to admit of their being tucked into the walst- coat pocket, peeping out from which they look very jaunty. The tendency of the newest bodices s to suppress all seams except those on the shoulder and those under the arm. The on is very They stall be put at equal rates with the men who are apprentices, working have Thelr She never knows what germs | comb should be equal in importance for clean- | The ugly poke bonnet is occasionally seen | THE SECRET O Mme. M. Yale's Excelsior Compiexi beautiful—they will certainly do the s: sonality and remarkable beauty has neve tiful. Her bonuty has been eultiv on the market for the benefit of al Ladies using these romedies having She gives ull correspondence her person the subject of beauty. PRICE Mme. Yale's Hair Tonte, Turns gr without the h Stops. week v hair back to Its own nat Qve. ‘The first. and only T oy of chemistry known to do this, ir falling ‘n from 9 lours to one creaies n Tuxurant grow(h, cures dan- druff‘and all scalp troubles. Price. $1 per bot te; 6 for . What s more discusting than 10 'see either a lady's or 4 genticman's hair full of little scales gradually falling on their al oolor nedy In for all kinds of $1 per bottle; 6 for jusands of testimoniaison file and re- ceived every d: s Xl ofines and lovely, <\ mond Ceenm, coarse keep Pri pores, the skin smooth 1 ana every $1.50 and $3 i W art Exteacte Removes and destroys forever moles and wi 0 wnd Omtment, Pimples, Black Heads and Skin Dis Mine. Yale's Special Lotion N al Ointment No. 2. Guaranteed. Pric Mme. ¥ale's Bust Food, uaranteed to develop a beautiful bust neck: gives fitmness to the flesh and create a natural condition of plumpness. Price, 31 and $3 me, Vi e's Elixir of Beaury, Ciltivates natural rosy cheeks, a wonderful skin tonic. Price, $1 per bottle, Full line carriod by Kuhn & Co., 15th and Howard. Kinsler Drug Co., 16th aud F by ail Ni braska druggists. pany, Omaha. 1 At wholesale by Harley's Drug Store, corner O and 11 COUNCIL BLUF George S. Davis, and all druggists th Druggists everywhere sell Mme. M happen 1o have them in stock wheun called extra charge. Mail orders seut to Mm. tention. All correspondence answer gown is then fitted by m slight fullness at the belt and collar in close blouse effects. A new material called Lisrein Is made into jackets and mantles. It is a fine fmi- tation of sealskin, rain proof, and considered more healthful to wear on accownt of its light and porous properties. New and very effective black chiffon trim- mings have a handsome, applique edging of old English lace of a deep cream tint, with dots of the same color brightening the dense black surface above this bordering. Embroidered flowers in black and white, the silk embroidery almost concealing the ground beneath it, are used. This black and white work is most effectively used as a fjacket over Nile green, cerise or haw- thorn pink corsages. The fullness of the skirt now in fashion is massed in the center of the back. Blas- tics hold the godet pleats in place about half way down the back of the skirt From the knees all skirts flare to the width of four and a half or five or six yards. Embroidered chiffons with raised silk flowers are draped over satin evening frocks with charming eff Chifton, this soft ma- terial, comes in great variety, plain, shot covered with dainty blossoms and striped with silver and gold tinsel threads. Handkerchiefs continue the beautiful line, and hold their own well, There are fancy handkerchiefs galore, but a square of delicate snowy linen, hemstitched and slightly fra- grant, is never rivaled in the esteem of a woman of refinement. Salammbo is a new very delicate shade of raspberry pink that is combined with Rus- sian-green velours, velvet, satin for evening wear, and likewise Marie Antoinette brocades showing a beautiful shaded floral design upon & superb satin ground that is shot with those two colors. A new weave of linen—it Is very soft and flexible—is made for undergarments. It is like silk in texture, and comes of the palest, prettiest coloring. Fine sprigged lawns are | also used for the same purpose, and, trimmed | with Valenciennes lace, are marvels of beauty. | e Feminlne Notes A new dainty for afternoon tea is a maca- roon sandwich. It is made with two maca- Toons, between which is placed a very thin slice of sage cheese. Miss Edith Rockefeller has a fancy for planos. There are five in her home, 4 West Fifty-fourth street, New York. She likes | them in wood to match her boudoir, or ir rosewood like the drawing room. She plays Deautifully, and is rich enough to indulge the | fancy to her heart's desire. Dr. Mary V. Mitchell Green, late of the Woman's college, Baltimore, has been ap- pointed director of the Somerville gymnasium at Swarthmore college. She will have as her assistant Marian Hunter of the Boston Train- ing School for Swedish system, A wife in Australia died just in time the other day, it she had only known it. Her husband, maintaining that his marriage vows were only “till death do us part,” refused to pay her funeral expenses. The court, it is pleasant to record, promptly convinced him | of his error, deciding that a husband's du- tles only cease when the undertaker's bills are pald. Mrs, C. Oliver Tselin, who until recently was the most celebrated soclety girl of her state, has long had a fondness for candle- | sticks. She has every conceivable gort, and | her tables and mantels are covered with them. Ther are jeweled sticks and just the plain, pretty ones that come in so many dif- ferent kinds of china nowadays. Her collec- tion would stock a bric-a-brac shop nicely with that variety of ornament. Lady Mary Grosvenor, the fiancee of Prince Adolphus of Teck, is the daughter of the duke of Westminster, one of the richest men in England. The Tecks are not rich, and the | Westminster money will doubtless prove very | acceptable, Lady Mary is not pretty, but her coloring i dainty and her eyes are attractive. | She is sald to be clever and accomplished. Mrs. Jessle Benton Fremont has been e'ccte: president of a new chapter of the Daught of the American Revolution formed in Los Angeles, Cal. The fourteen charter members of the chapter represent many famous colonial patriots. At the opening sesslon lea was brewed in camp keltles that are heirlooms in the Darsey family, and were used by Wash ington and Lafavette In the revolutionary war. Miss Florence Nightinagle st the age of | 74 is enjoylng excellent health. She Is a rich | woman, having, besides some privats means, | the $260,000 publicly subscribed for her by | the English people at the close of the Crimean | roam, W. d pe YALE TEMPLE OF BEAUTY, | From 8 to 11 F HER BEAUTY. n and Health ame for you. o boen eq temodies have made her Mme. Yalo's charming per- led. She was not born beau- ted by the same remedies which she has placed | women, They can be deponded ou. the privilege of writing w0 Mme. Yalo. al attention and answers all questions on Mme. Yale's Guide to Health and Beauty. LIST: Mme. Mme o be Yulo's La Freckla orful La Freckla (s known cure for freckles. In fiom 3 days to o Kk after fts first application every freckle will disappear and the complexion mo ay clear as crystal. Price, $1 por bottle, Mun, Vaie's o A luxury beautiful to look fectly puro and sweet sold during the past v kood_ thing—Yale Soap. a cake, makes the #idn of falr women Yale Soap is pere Over 100,000 cuked ar. Women know & Al druggists, at 800 Mine, Yale's Complexion Blotech. suaranteed to remove sallowness, mot all skin_ blemishes. on_of marvelous $5 for 3 bottles Blood Tonle. ifies the blood, acts on the liver, bullds up the whole syscem, com: | beauty, Price, $1 por Kkidnoys Price $1 pe Mme. M ¥ o8 the lashes g ws Tuzuriant wtifles” the o and pure. Pric M, daies | (o's Eyelush and Eyebrow Grower. thi hapely Guaranteed to be perfect 11,00, A Whitener. Makes the hands soft, lily white and beautiful Price, $1. i eat scott!™ Mme. Yale's wonderful remedy for removing and destroying the wth of superfinous hair, takes but five minutes to use: does not hurt, irvitate or even make the skin red; removed every trace in one application. Price’$5. OMAHA DRUGGISTS. 1d Douglas streots, Merchant & Vickers, 16th J. Hughes, ud Farnam, And 15, 13, Bruce & Co, and Richardson Drug Com- LINCOLN DRUGGISTS. th streots, carry a full line. FS DRUGGISTS. roughout fowa. . Yale's Remedios. If druggists do nod 1 for, they will order for you without Yale's héadguarters veceive prompt at- sonally. 146 State Street, )r’ N YAFT e “Paia extra ondinary K Juvenator 18 the most wonder/ul disoovery of he aze. It has been eu- dorsed by the leadingscicn tific men of Europe and America. Hudyan is arely vege- Dle., Hudyan stops Prematureness of the dis- charge in %) “Lost™ ¥ANHOOD oustwiiohing of ‘the eyes and other pa.ta, Strengthens, inyigorates and wn’..-‘.zgc nrire s 3 Hudyam cuures Debility, Nervousness, olmissions, nd develops and res quickly. Over 2,000 private Indorsements. Premutureness means impotency in the first stage. It Is o symptom of seminal weaknoss and barrenncss. 1t can be cured in 20 days by the of Hudyan. o new discovery was made by the speciallsts of the old famous Hudson Medical Tnstitute. I€ I8 the strongest vitallzer made. 1t Is very powel 2 Sold for $100 & package, OF B (lain sealed boxes), Kiven for @ cure. 1f you buy six boxes ot entirely curcd, six mora will be sent to you free of ll charge, Send for circulars and testimonials. Address, HUDSON MEDICAL INST TUTE Junction Stockton Market, and Ellis Streets, San Francisco,Cal. CTO SEARLES & SEARLES Consullation Frey Cutarrh, all diseascs of the nose, Throat. Chest,Stomach, Liver, Blood Skin and Kidney diseasss, Lost —Manhood and all Private Dis= eases of Men. Call on or addross, Dr. Searles & Searles, 1413 Faroam Stross Ouihis, Nob., war. Quite recently she confided to a friend her intention to settle the mon as 8 trust, the interest to be devoted to nurs! wounded soldle should her country ever again be engaged in war with a European power. That genial woman and brilliant author and editor, Miss Susan Ilayes Ward, prefers the wane of the day for her literary work, er muse is apt to be kindest, she is quoted us saying, “‘as though things had really begun until the lights are well going and dinner Is over, Then inspiration comes to me, It ever, and I can accomplish far mere work and of far better quality than 1 cam in the stupld, prosalo daylight.” “I never feel," basiiod