Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, September 30, 1894, Page 19

“#¢ Burton Harrizon, W i RUMPET OF DAME GRUNDY Fair Faces of Femous elles at the Comirg New York Loan Fxhibition, BEAUTIES PAST AND PRESENT COMPARED | tAdvincod” Women Soverely Scorad by One of Their Own Sex—Electriclty Superior to All Cosmetios—Styles for Chil- dren —Fucts and Fashions. In a few wecks New Yorkers will be able to contrast lovely dames and belles of the Past with famous beauties of today. This they can do by means of the vision of fair women 1o be held at the Academy when old and new portraits from all parts of the country will be on exhibition. Virginia will be well represented with por- traits by English painters of the well born Deauties of that arlstrocratic state. In *'fo' de wal” mansions, whose Ionic col- umns are falling away from the crumbling plazzas which they supported, these pic- turos will be taken down from the walls from which great squares of plaster have fallen. The soft eyes of the maiden in her Dpresentation gown are turned toward the window overlooking the rich hills and val- leys whore, as dashing horsewoman, she rodo with gay cavaliers, and the toast was always “‘to the king.” Two great battles have been fought in har #tate siuce then, and the portraits of her great-greal-grandehlldren will hang by hor slde at the academy. The present type of ‘tho aristocratic southern woman (her an- oceator was termed ‘lady”), such as Mrs. lovely May Handy or Irene Langhorn, who led the Patriarchs’ o last year, will offer a strong and interest- ‘the’ Priscilla Aldens of their day, In #evere gown and spotless frill, who will 8 hmnmn. %& achusetts will send its Puritan maid- ¢ ) the tand as opposed in style, as they actually ‘elot. [ ™ [ 4 Mlat back, Tk were In manner and religion, to thelr bril- Jiant Virginia sisters, How startling it would be should the latter lift her glass sing, in the face of the girl from Ply 6ck, "Over the Water to Charlie?” Then in sharp contrast to the Puritan gl will be Boston’s fin de siecle woman— Mra. Jack Gardiner, for. instance. ‘The difference in Rhode Island's beauties, vast and present, will be accentuated by #uch smart young belles of today as Mrs. { Ol.ver Iselin, nee Hope Goddard. & 4 . The island of Manhattan will be exte EX} sively represented from its | old Knlokes becker families—there will be Van Rens- seluers, Crugers, Schieffelins and Schuylers he In number, and’ all in plcturesque contrast » ®ith. the nineteenth century New York “\Woman—that lady fair known th length and JBreadth of (wo continents for her penm @ | Wit and style; the woman who stands as the / Joading representative today of our country's {wealth and culture, %y _ Close observers who wisit the academy \ @nd take careful note of the fair women on 0l wiew, will be quick to see some odd and in: fteresting somparisons between women of the early’and late days of this century. The it of Aifty years ago painted his dames Or damsels as plump, boneless ladies, thelr houlders drooping forward, and supple (limbs, pretty, but utterly useless looking. _Différent, indeed, from the alert fin de “slecle creatures we see about us, with her square shoulders, small, firm “bosom, and long white throat. She is more ke a high-bred racer, lithe, slender, keen . and graceful, while her ancestor is com- . Placent, moré sleepy and gracions, as if her 3 ol Mba: . “mind dwelt theosophy. One also sees that the portrait painters of today are more truthful, the absurd, up- ward curve to the corners of the mouth is gane, the forced, shallow little smile is ab- sent, the eyebrows are not arched and lengthened beyond natural confines to give Plquantness to the brow, and the two tiny tendons In the frout of = woman's throat &re today in bold relief, being deemed by us 85 a mark of beauty. Again, the new woman, instead of being painted in a tashion- able gown, prefers the manner of Lely and Qainsborough, with a bit of gauzy white drapery flying loose over the bosom, half vevealing, half concealing its lovelin The Dream of Fair Women will be more Ahan a mere entertainment for charity. It Wil give qppertunity to study old and new mmethods of portraiture. 1o Six wood cuts of advanced women, recently Dublished by a newspaper, are calculated to /auggest to the beholder several thoughts of ‘panful nature, writes Gertrude Atherton ' Mn a letter 10 the New York Sun. Making ~ allowance for the well known short-comings 0t the woodeutter—recalling, indeed, more porivaits~—these she-males are home- rather on housewifery than i than inartistic sin or unleavened virtue. hing & dark lantern into the caves and ean passages of memory, where such re packed awuy—especiuily o' nights late @inner—not one face favored by out of the whole pack of advanced Women smiles into view. Some there are that in youth may have been prepossessing, but there Is no record that st that remote perlod they were advanced. Of the younger reeruits there 1s not one that a man would . his neck to look at—not one! not one! We all know that there are men that il walk backward to stare at any woman 2 Mecomly good looking. ~ . Now, the question naturally arises, Would | #he same women be advanced if they were m of that divine prerogative of their ' ex—beauty? 10 they were even round and Tomy and pretty? It ts all very well to talk #bout the commanding strength of heredity and ourtailed power of environment, but jJust W an ugly woman iute a Pretty one #he will leap form pessimism (o optim- J like & torrent of water that has been ‘wnnaturally damned. _Wor men make this world & very pleasant for pretty women, even for those who 00b. tuke undue liberties with the Deea~ ‘logue. Most ‘women with beauty marry and are quite content to let some one gbt the battle of life for them. If Mkke & mistako they quietly divorce the party An the contract and, -with Judgment, marry again, Those who marry, and are forced to earn thelr own living, find the way much easier if they pleaso the eye of man, and naturally they take an optimistic view of life. The odd part of it is that these women when they write their novels invariably make thelr propagandist heroines beautiful, Bewitchingly, seductively, stormily, regally or circeanly beautiful are these young women of paper who would resolve man into his clements and remake him after a pattern which would immediately bring the human race to an end. These writers paint women that physically represent all they them- selves yearn to be, never reflecting that those pretty beads would not harbor their own disto=-. and Indigo views of life five minutcs. In the hands of a man author those same heroines would make the pages hum. But these wocd cuts suggest another alarm- Ing question. Is beauty on the decline? For the ranks of the advanced are now many and many thousands strong. The suffrage movement, the teinperance movement, tha anti-man movement, the anti-in-general movement, ~all -~ of wich may be grouped under the general head of woman- ism, are filling space like a mighty flock of crows, and hiding the light of the stars, Of course their children—if they condescend to have any—will be hideous, and the ulti- mate prospect s awful. For nothing that the human b can evolve can ever take | the place of beauty, whether it be beauty of face, of art, or of a mountain undor a purple mist. “And as these women are as ab- solutely without the sense of beauty as they are without proportion .and humor, the natural result will be;;if.they muitiply and ovirrun the earth, that beauty and the per- ception of it will disappear, The only hope this'planet has is that man will respectfully but firmly decline to marry the advanced woman, in which case tho evil will be confined to the pregent generation. But there as many feeble-souled males in this world as there are dist:mpered females, and the danger lies in their tremb- Dling admiration for and final absorption | by the Amazons of this fmmemorial quarter. In which case let us all thank our several fates that althongh we may be in at the death, we will be spared the contemplation of a misbegotten prosterity. Electricity Is greater than any cosmetic as a beautifier. It also puts more and firmer flesh on the face in a shorter space of time than any known tonic. This fact has been found true lately by women, with the result that those who go in for fine rosy skins are taking electricity along with other athletic aids to physical culture. The machinery required is a small, por- tabie electric battery with a faradic current, Be sure that it is a faradic, for its opposite, the galvanic, burns and blisters, while the other is only, to quote an old darky— pow'ful stimerlative. One of small size the right sort to get. Women who are adopting them apply the current to the muscles of the face, rubbing the sponges firmly over cheeks and foreheads. The same treatment Is applied to the throat and shoulders, The muscles begin to enlarge agd hirden, the face fills out, lines disappesp)‘end a fine, natural bloom shows under#he \skir, This 1s what the\ndvdcates clalm for it. 1 know one woman who was véry slender and she has gained twenty pounds in three months since using her battery. Women who have a thin neck and ghoulders are trying electriclty to develop the latter Into a con. dition that will permit of an 1830 gown this winter at social affairs. Its effect is healthier than any ofl, cold cream or manufacturers' evils that are in continual use by slender women desirous of the abolishing of prominent bones and wrin- kies. — Then it is less expensive, the bat-. terles only costing $7 and $14. More ex- pensive ones can be bought, of course, but those at this price are adequately beneficial, The amount of current to be turned on ecan be learned of any physiclan, and there are not sufficient volts to cause death, Is New York women, especially those who have any nervous ‘strain, such as great social responsibility, writing or illustrating, are enthusiastic over the effect. It removes all tired lines, they say, restores the nery- ous equilibrium and, better than all “fleshens” one up. I asked a phisiclan abont the truth of the women's claims whether the result to the face was from scientific reasons or chance, He said an increase of flesh from this faradic current was undoubtedly true, and that he would advise any thin woman to use it. “You know,” he continued, “its effect is on the muscles,” and he {llus- trated to me practically how its applica- tion en the muscles bellied them out, as a sall when the wind strikes it. This con- stant movement makes them enlarge. “The flesh,” he sald, “is not gained by mere con- tact with the electric current, as the lalty suppose, but one's system {s charged and stimulated, the impurities of the skin are thrown off, the appetite increases and the person quickly takes on flesh Its after effect on the muscles is not bad, is it? “No. There is nothing injurious about electricity except too much of f1. The flesh is gained by sound methods. Any woman can have a full face and throat if she uses her wires systematically."” So the little battery will be the winter substitute for dumb bells and rackets in muscle gaining, and half the slender faced wom 1 know are going in for it. They confidently expect to weigh twenty-five pounds more by 1895. With the swift-flying of autumn days the question arises ““What are the little ones to wear mext?” “‘But one thing at least is certain, none or very few of the liliputian garments that did duty a year ago can be pressed into sery- lce for this October's use. Small bodies grow fast, indeed, like the enchanted bean vine in the fairy tale, they seem to alter in a single night; and with It all fashions for clilldren change quite as oftea as do those for their grown-up relatives. Still, lttle left-oyer frocks of the year before always come i nicely for younger sisters, so here ¥ .a usefal hint for fresh- ening them up cleverly. 1f the small gown Is of plain or checked wool, band the skirt, wrist, meck and waist lines with several rows of narrow waved brald in black, fancy plald, or some rieh contrasting color. Ir the dress Is already Lrimmed with plain braid, mohair or sik, & new and pretty effeot is gained by running down the center of this & second minute sigeag one in silver or glit. Many of the mewest imported models for girls from 6 to 12 years of age come with braid woven in this fushion; but if weatly mounted mm the marner desevibed, no one | and THE OMAHA DAILY BEE: SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 1804, would be able to tell the home-made garnle ture from the imported production. SUll another design in tho new novelty braids dor children's wear is a flat quarter- inch band in silk or wool with a round sord in a contrasting shade as m lower border edge. The next design s an excellont model for the making over of old materials, that is any wide handsome old skirt of cloth of silk that some unfortunate mother may pos- sess and feel In duty bound to utilize. The original of this dashing littls gown, which bore “Parls” on its price card, was of plain silk poplin in blue and changeable green, across which ran a skeleton bar in Vesuvian red. The low cut sleeveless blouse fool's peplum repeated this flame tint, and were of silk in a loose, pliable texture. The plain skirt, saucily short, was stiffened with hair cloth to look as if worn with a little hoop. The large buttons, that stud at Intervals the neck band and shoulder straps, were of blue velvet. It the old skirt suggested is yming, any of the inexpensive check or plaid wools now sold could reproduce this costume effectively. The chief cost would be for the silk blouse, which, howe: quires but little material. not forth- other delightful little toflet whose founda- tton ™R 0no of mamma's pale last summer pengall om the e, Fro model from which this was copied was W cornflower blue—bluet—ben- galine shot ringly with sparkling satin splashes, The fpund yoke and lower sleeve flounces were of silk in a pale maize tint. the yoke being ihade entirely in rows of tacks and herring bone embroidery. The belt and side bows were of bluct ivet ribbon, three inches wide. ‘Taken together, this small frock had a most grown-up air, and it had moreover inscribed with the astonishing legend, “‘After- noon house toflet for a miss of six! It is only in France that maids of six have speclal afterncon house toilets, but this tiny gown is simple and charming enough to serve as a good model and be worn anywhere. In the matter of wraps, unfortunately, home needle skill counts for very little. One must have a special talent to give the pro- fessional tailor finish required by the heavy cloths. For this reason, before any other of the smal wardrobe, coats, jackets and ulsters are more satisfactory—and really cheaper in tho end—Iif bought ready-made. A remarkably hands o shown on oadway for a girl of cardinal red cloth with strapped seams. The pleated cape hung round at the back, the deep pointed fronts being finished with long stole ends. The hat pictured with it in the drawing was pe in cardinal red felt with I asprey tips and cockade. A very useful and mannish little coat for a baby boy of 3 years was made of gray cloth with strapped seams and coachman buttons. The shapo has a loose double- breasted one with rever fronts and a wide cape collar at the back, and to be worn with it was a little York cap of velvet of the same shade, with a band and tips of ermine. The tiny ulster-like cloak with the turn- back pointed hood Is a good design for girls from 3 to 6 years of age. The one shown was of dull coral-pink cloth with the hood lined With an exquisite shade of pale leaf green silk. The hat was of coral pink felt with ruchings of green ribbon and front pom- bonettes introducing the two colors. The Kind Word society, that Mrs. John Sherwood founded in New York City, and of which the people and press have 'said so much lately, wouid prove a practical boon it taken up in Omaha Mrs. Sherwood founded it as a temporary relie during last year's terrible strain on the unemployed. Countless girls and women were out of work. That meant, in many cases, starvation for the whole famlly. .~ Money was sent them by many charitable societies, but brought no independence and only. tem- porary relief. Therefore, Mrs. Sherwood gave readings, asked for money and sent out circulars to housckeepers in the many and prosperous suburbs of New York. She sent also to the Working Girls' clubs, stating to the former that servants. with reputable references would be provided for by the Kind Word society, and to the latter that by applying at this office, which is in the Manhattan Athletic club building, positions would bo furnished. Women and girls cooped up in ill-smelling tenements were transported to air and in- dependence, and now the work is beginning to be one of these charitable sccieties with common sense as its basis. . The question arises, why cannot this sys- tem be made applicable in other cities where also the best of the unemployed are staring in helpless misery into the faces of the rich. Che ald given is of the light kind; it not only increases self-respect instead of pauper- Ism, but lowers the death rate and’ spreads health, Such a society could be staried in TY town by the earnest work of a few hilanthropists and a small money"subserip- tion. The latter pays for the transportation of the girls to their country positions. The women of the suburbs are always crying for competent domestics and many ould prefer to teach an educated, weli- mannered girl from the city seme ‘of her necossary duties, than bother with ineficiency and awkwardness, s Nurses' positions are much sought after by the city girls, for they like the romping With the children and the exhilaration of the open-air_life, Mrs. Sherwood, many think, has unraveled @ knotty problem. Let other spots where masses of people are gathered together wlth. out regard to space look well into hor method and the Kind Word soclety will be as broadly as deservedly known. “The motto of Sorosis,” to a representative of the “is ‘Unity in Diversity.” We believe in the application of this, not merely to ourselves, but to elubs collectively. It has long been our desire to form a state federation., and now I think the time is ripe.. Of course, the meeting of the 19th of November will only be a conference to discuss the question, but it will very soon be followed b a con- vention, at which, [ hope, every woman's club in the state will ba represented. I feel that before spring the federation will be a reality. Then the women's clubs of New York, which have already made his- tory, will rise to even a higher sphere of usefulness than they occupy at present. “‘People who regard our clubs superficially haven't the slightest conception of their wonderful growth and great importance. The women's movement, of which they are in a considerable degree the cause, is evo- lullnnnry—ravoluuonnry I would say, ex- cept for the fact that it fis golng on so quietly and conservatively, It is gaining for woman the recognition which is hers by right, and 1s helping her to occupy her new position with honor to herself. ““People 80 often misjudge us. working in special flelds at all, we have never agitated question suftrage or dress reform, was for years popularly Supposed to be a suffrage club. If the truth be said, it 13 very probable that m pronounced ‘woman suffragist would be unable to gain admit- tance. We are simply aiming at the de- velopment of women along general lnes. Much has already been accomplished. At the National Conference of Women's clubs, held in this city, In 1889, sixty-five clubs were represented. At least 600 are now ‘members ot the National Federation. A great many of them have delightful club houses, which sald_Mrs. Croly New York Times, We are not As clubs, s ke woman and yet Sorosis have become the centers of art and literary culture generally in their respective olties and towns. Miss Sylvia Green has a fad which 1s hers by inheritance. It is for money. But, un- lke her mother, Mrs. Hetty Green, it is not for the making of money, but for saving it. She is constantly in fear of the poorhouse, says the New York Sun, and is afraid to spend a cont. She has 33,000,000 in her own right from her grandfather, but apends nothing. She 13 most agreeable to live with, belng quiet, amiable and accommo- dating, though not so cheerful us she might be. ‘She is not stingy o the household, hut will not spend anything on herself. She Nus devised almost every kind of bank for saving her “spare” change, and is always looking abead Into the future, with her money hid- don in her hand for safe keeping. = Her friends say that this i the result of early training, and will be eradicated if she ever comes into the fifty or so millions her mother will leave her, Miss Consuelo Vanderbilt, the young daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Wily K., has & fondness for bracel Mrs. Willy has brought up her family well, and has not overindulged them in luxuries, but this daughter, who will make her debut in about two years, owns & very large collection of these ornaments. Miss Anna Gould, that ever Wiscussed plendid | The demand and supply began with a rush. | heiress, has a fad for horses. At Furlough lodge, her brother's place in the Adirondack mountains, she keeps a magnificent team for her own driving, and she has, besid several saddle horses there and a stablefu of young horses, yet to be broken, for she will doubtless establish a small sized stock farm there, where there {8 so much room. Her fad for horses dates from the day when her father bought a little pony cart for her- self and her sister Helen at Saratoga, years ago, when her mother was living. Miss Winnfo Davis has a fad, so it is said. It is for getting her photograph taken. She has been photographed so often that has grown to enjoy it, and several times a year she poses. The demand for her piotures ls vory great, as in the south she is known as “the Daughter of the Confederacy,” and north she has many friends. Miss Davis has several hundred of her own photographs. he Is beautiful enough to have mauy more aken. Miss Julia Dent Grant, though not yet in society, knows a great deal about the eti- quette of Austria speaks many languages. o learning them, and since the day when her cultured mother insisted upon having Ge man spoken as the language of the hou hold, she has mastered several tongu In the Austrian court, when her father was foreign minister, it was not an unusual thing ar Miss Grant = speaking German, Italian and Spanish all in one then English again, without a sec- now enjoys | ond's hesitation in any of the tongues. The editor of the Idler, after pondering tho question “How to Court the Advanced determined to ask these feminine 8 to answer it. response has been prompt. George the author of ‘Keynotes,” boldly advances the opinion that man is inferior, that his superiority has always been purely an cconomic one. She believes that the par- ticularly intellectual woman can marry an averago man of honorable character and no overplus of brains with a fair prospect of happiness. ““Woman at her best,” she says, “will always be attracted by manly quali- ties in a man, and If the average an is only prepared to give ns well as take, to re- the woman he marries h: opinions and feelings of her own, and to treat them with the same defere as ho would extend, say, to those of a male chum, he may safely risk courting her— and as much in the old way as possible.” Mrs. Mannington Caffyn, the "Yellow As- lady, Is not sure that the advanced woman will submit at all to be courted; she rather thinks that the avera man ought to keep in mind the coming girl, for whom tho advanced woman is only pr The coming girl is described by Mrs, as a eane and simple ruler over s hearts, a creature of tempered knowl- 1 sweet serenity, of pity, loving kind- i humor. Truly a charming young for the average man fo court. Sarah Grand’s answer is short and to the point. She declares that she has ‘‘very little to say on the subject, the answer scems to me to bo such a simple one. There is only one way to court a weman, and that is with respect. So long as a man and a woman respect each other's individuality neither can have any just cause for complaint.” What woman can do as a woman, in the full development of her femineity, is not so well known. Does she propose to copy tha career of man, to be less a woman and more a man, or to cultivate as they have never been cultivated the unknown ca- pacities of her s asks Charles Dudley Warner in Harper's Magazine for Septem ber. This is the real question underneath | the educational movement. Perhaps she a=nnot tell what she will do until she fully trained her pecullar powers by every means of education now opening to her. Perhaps the wise woman is not eager to take a man's duties before she has thoroughly mastered her own. It Is a satire on hu- manity that every ignorant man thinks him- eelt fit to govern his fellow: re women anxious to broaden this satirical condition? All the poets have always said that the nublest creation is the very noble woman There have bzen enough of them for exam- ple. Think what the world would be if a majority of the women more nearly ap- proached the noble standard of her sex. A great deal of attention is devoted by the Buropean gossips just now to the pros- pective marriage of the two American heir- esses, Mjss Gould and Miss Pullman, but neither of the young ladfés has justified the predictions of these chatterers. Mss Gould, by the way, has much disappolnted the great Paris dressmakers, who had hoped to have from her many orders for gorgeous costumes. But she does not believe in very rich and elaborate attire for young unmar- ried women, and her clothes have been sim- plo if pretty. — Miss Pullman has been even more than Mics Gould the subject of eager curiosity of those who ‘Would like to divert Amer.can dollars into the pockets of a possi- ble impecunious bridegroom of title. John Strange Wifiter is not a man, as most people know. ‘But she thanks her hus. band, Mr. Arthur Stanmard of London, for sistance he has/ given her on the hillside. Of late Mr. Stannard has been cbliged to give up his own business | to manage the very lucrative magazine namel after his wife. *If my husband had not said my storles were good & could never have continued them,” she says. My husband and Ruskin were my helpers." George Eliot, years ago, thanked her hus- band, George Lewes, and her friend, Herbert Spencer, for their criticisms, which assisted her over the knotty points of novel planning. And when, just before her death, sie learned that Mr. Lewes had shielded her from the adverse critics who were so plentiful with blame when she first started out, she revered his memory more than ever. To her second husband, Mr. Cross, she sald: “I would never, without Mr.' Lewes. have been a writer of even a little merit!" A Vassar girl, not long ago, cramming for her examinations, sent down an order to the refectory for strong tea and cracked ice. Tt was her freshman year, or she would never have done it, a proper diet being one of the important matters in that admirable institution. At all girls' colleges the relation of proper eating to good work is fully under- stood. At the Woman's college in Baltimore a glance at the food contracts for the com- ing nine months, s interesting. It will take eleven tons of beef, three and one-half of mutton, two of pork, and four of poultry, to satisty the healthy young appetites of the 200 students in the meat line alone. There are, besides, 3,600 dozens of eggs, two and a half tons of butter, five of sugar, and one and @ half of crackers to be disposed of, Brain and brawn should be well nourished between now and June with this supply. Said an observing shoemaker recently: “It Is a positive fact that women's feet are de- cidedly larger tban a few years ago. I can recall when a woman who asked for size four in her shoes almost invariably apologized o manner or words; mow fives are almost the average size, and sixes are in great de- mand. The physical culture craze is respon- sible for this. Young women who tramp, play tennis, and now golf, simply cannot do It In parrow tight boots any longer. As to the French heel, only actresses and women Who ape their modes wear them in the street any more. The really fashionable women use them still for dress shoes, but never for walking boots,” ‘Why, oh, why,” sighs a suburban WO~ man, “are the windaws of cars made not to &0 up without the aid of two or three men, and sometimes not then? It was a positive pleasure the other day to sit In a stifiing New York and New Haven car at the Forty- second street station and see two of the company’'s windows smashed by two men in their efforts to raise them. Of course, It was stupid of them to pound the glass in- stead of the fram but I could understand 4nd appreciate thelr indignation at the per- ennial total depravity of car windows.” Some of tie simpler, and quieter summer hotels in the Adiropdadk region are not the least comfortabls rln h their furnishi are primitive their local waiters have not metropolitan ways, At ome of these quiet houses a hushand and wife, who were stopping for a few days, on their way north, attracted by their pleasant manner the lik- ing of the waiter, detalled at the table, Madame, like a trug American, called for a litle more of some particularly nice pie, Whereupon her husbayd rebuked her jocosely In hiw care for her health. ‘“No, no, Milly,” be sald, “you have had quite encugh ple for your good.” “Never you mind, hiti, Milly, than, the waiter, leaning over her chair, a perfect mass of sympathy. “You kin hey all ther pie ther is; here’s a hull one.” Fushion Notes, Butterflies with wings outspread i silver sald Bloa. England and America, and | | hats now ring_the | | outer garme A RELIA and silver gilt have been design:d for vell | pins. Tangerine, Jemon topaze, maize, and bronze are among the new shades New postal card racks of perforated silver are out. A receptacle for stamps Is at- tached. The silk waist 1s more festive than ever. Poppy red silk ar> effective, made of ac cordion pleated surah or crepe de chine. Huge puffed sleeves over which are bands like those seen in the portraits of the Henry VIII. epoch are artistic and modish. New French surtouts, £o useful and desir- able during the inevitable damp and stormy days of autumn, are variously made of Scotch heather cloth, English Melton, cheviot and hunting tweed The French felt turbans, toques and r: xhibited by fashionable impo are dyed In lovely shades of color, in ma dove-gra fawn, old-rose, pale and greens, magenta, ete. Corsages continue to be very elaborately trimmed and sleeves are more voluiminons than ever. Velvet ribb fancy gallon and chiffon are el ectively trimmings The present popularity beugalines, failles, armures- all makes and of all prices—is quite unpre- cedented in the annals of fashio 1 popularity of the glace varieties is real phenomenal Pearls are foremost ar ong gems. Seed pearls are worked into round brooches with geometrical ornamentation. I colored jewels. are in great vogue and ns ara all intended 1o throw them prominence, Black and white decorations predominate upon the white felt hats, white being mora lavishly employed than black. White birds, In spite of flourishing humane societics, are used by the thousand by fashionable milli- ners, both here and abroad Capes pro to b the for occasions, ille long ulsters, tight-fitting in the back and double-breasted in front, with immense revers and sleeves, will be popular for ordinary wear, Among the used amber i ors dark used as of moirs silks, in fact, silks in into most stylish us of handsome fabrics now for tailor costum e fancy s, boucle effects in French ris novelty goods, genuin its, English scrges creped cloths in winter quali A fashion which, for day least, must terminate with the warm weather | that of intreducing white sicoves in any gown the waist and skirt of which show touches of white. These slceves, however Will b worn indoors for a much longer time. Black and white fabrics in combination, in striped ' silks, shepherd's checks, plaided surahs and ' bengalines, moire and brocade ‘melanges for elegant toil ts, in dotted armures, and in many mixtures have, if possible, popularity. being Oxfe camel's wear at increased their © Notes. Huntington has such a pro- that she might wear a new Femin! Mrs. C. P. fusion of jewe parure each day. Mme. Casimir-Perier, the wife of the president of France, and her children are en. thusiastic bi 5. The cmpress of China has sent five to ghe man manner: The Univ the title of ¢ sina Labriola, nyme, Mies Rate Sanborn, who is not only hu- morous herself, but is the ady coverer of many otner humorous w grandniece of Daniel Webster. Worth is sald to be the only living who refuses to alter your does not suit you. If the fit is not perfec- tion he makes an entirely new costume. Browning teas and Ibsen talks are now of tho past, and everything is Mrs. Bdward Lauterbach is a devoted stu- dent of American history and everything pertaining to America, The empr ladies and etiquette. ty of Rome recently on § daughtor mo- of Austria Is @ great linguist, Her latest study is Greek, which she now speaks and writes fluently, although six years ago she was ignorant of even the al- Phabet of that language. Miss Eleanor Hewitt, .the oldest un married daughter of ex-Mayor Hewilt, has | been roadmaster for several years at Ring- wood, N. J., where their country home is situated. Miss Emma Bates, the republican nomi- nee for state superintendent of public in- struction in North Dakota, is a native of New York and a graduate of Allegheny col- lege. When Lady Randolph Churchill was at Bar harbor she went off on one fishing ex-- cursion. Her ladyship is something of an angler, and every yvear she takes a trip to the north of Scotland during the salmon fishing season, and her “‘catches” are some- thing wonderful Mme. Yeer, one of the best known figures In the world of Parisian journalism, is the widow of & journalist. When her husband died Mme. Yeer took up his work, and has been eminently successful. Her constant ompanion is ‘a great white poodle call the Doctor,” who is an eflicient tector. Mrs, don Louise Chandler Moulton has a Lon- home at Weymouth street, Portland Place, and she is accredited with being one | of the half dozen women in London able to create and hold a salon. Her pretty dra ing room is filled with all sorts of literary mementes, and at her Fridays there is sure | to be a collection of lving celebrities th: it Is said s not possible to be found in any other London parlor. “It was a real trial,” admits a woman who has lately been to Venice, “to see lit- t1e steamboats plying about on the eanal The picturesque gondola was there, too, of course, but when it comes to a choice be- tween the two, for comfort and celerity, one has to choose the steam propelled boat: That's what I deprecate, you know-—the ¢holce. An American, Mrs. Teresa Viele, has re- celved the decoration of the gramd eordom of the Chefekat, from the sultan of Turkey, in recognition for her services to the Ottoman empire, by the paper read before the lterary congress at the Columbian fair. The subject of the paper was “Turkey and the Religions of Islam.” The decoration is very rare. It s an enamel star set in 100 dimonds. SEVEN SHADES Ji rich, natural colors, are produced by the Im Hair Regenerator. The colors Washable, but will not staln the IMPERIAL Hair REGENERATOR | westores gray hair to its color and vMally to by Mustachie, beard, exetros colored with it." It is pe free book about It IMPERIAL CILEMICAL MFG, 21 FIFTH AVENUE, N. Y. Sold by Sherman & MeCouncll, 15l Dodge 8t., Omaka, Nebruska. and ghes co. great | other magpie | court of Berlin in order to learn Ger- | “Americana.” | pros | fast and | Eleven Years' Experience. <« - Seventh Year in Omm.-. The largest prastice in the city, bailt up by doing 3 Good Dental Dr. Bailoy has tises to do anything at a certain true npon consulting hin ntal so have good work on their teoth, but wil the dentist who does it d without the slightest pain. ant charges for dc Teoth extrac made the $6 o § teed as r same day All dental work at reasonable prices and guarans presented. Work at Reasonable Pricess & proven 10 Omaha that when he ad wice, you always fin T'he day for exor! , the people miist not bo robbed by t his o vicos has pas 'w teeth old ones taken out. Gold orowns, 22K, DR, R, W. BA IV Jffice—B8d Floor Paxton Block, 16th and Farnam§ Entranca 16th Street. Laity Atte I, ribbons, | The Createst Beautifying Agen's Known Mme. M. Yale day over 18, Her beauty is the marve! of feits and imitation Mme. M. Yale's | secret formulas and cannot be duplie: dant. who is the reigning x constantiy for many years, and although n Remedios ited by any ono but h Telophone 1085, Germup Spo Excelsior Complexion Remedies INDORSED BY CONGRESS . . Awarded World’s Fair Medal and Diploma to the World. ity of teday., has used these remedies 'y 42 years 0ld she does not look one the whole wocld. B carefal of counters are compounded from her owa CAUTION. Do not let your druggist talk you out something eleo in their place. | as zood—for there is nothing on ea Mme. Yale's £ | teed all who use them. | PRICE '8 Special 1 No. lent. No. 2, guaranteed Erce'sior Skin Food, wranteed to remove w ot age. Price Pimples, and nlles and $1.50 and $3.0. G‘UWUHXiDfl Blgnch. every salloy moth | Blemish s o mi ity i sIX for o skin natural e ot “rice $2.00 per by | EXGeIsior Hair Tonic. Turns gray hair colorwithout dye, ry falling back Th to its own natural first and only - emistey known to ds in fro lours 1o wih, Price bottles. Wl gives (rmness to the flesh anl ural condition of plumpacss, 1ric | Biegsio (ireqt S Mine. Ya and Qdes takes but irritate or < rowth of s | five minutes to use: even make the e in one application Fecka 0 e Mme. M. Yal n 0 be A 1o 3 days to ane nft - | fon every f ! mplexion b a | ¢ 3100 per bott L Do not beli h thut ever has or ever y celsior Comploxion Remedies, A Mme. Yale will promptly filt all mai of those romedies by t ! ng to sell you @ him if he say somoetiing else is juss take the place of mploxion is guaran- 1 orders sent to hor, perfect LEEE= e Exceisior Aimond Biogsom Comieion Cream Refl arse pores, keeps the skin smooth ar Price 3100, i hilenor giinds sott, 1y white and beautte Kole and Wan bimsior 1 destroyh tice $3,00, EYe-Losh 0 Eyve-Biok Grower litir of Beauly s natural rosy skin tonic. Price §1.00 6'S Bice'sior Foriiizer - Price $1.50, Tovel torever moles and lashe Tuxurha atifies the e sTow thick and Inng, the shapely, | strengl fiteed pure. o wondertul s constipation. Eiceisior Blood Tonic fies the blood, acts on the lver, kidneys and builds up the system. Price . $1.00 pe bottle; six for $5.00. Hultoura i v wonderful cure for all kinds weakness. Price $LO0. per bottles SOLD BY DRUGGISTS. y Kuhn & Co., 1. 4. Kinsler Drug Co., 16th and Council Bluffs, and by ail drazgsi Richardson Drug Company, Omaha. Merehant & Viekers, 6th 4uh and Parnam, Georgo E. Brace & Co, aad Mall ordersand correspuaaence may be sentto Mme Yale's headquarters MME., M SEARLES & SEARLES, | | % | 3 | 4 AND Special Diseasss | | VREATMENT 8Y maiL. cbusuLratioy f Catarrh, all Diseasas of tho Nosa, Throat, Chest, Stomach, Livor, Blood —Skin ani Kidney Diseasss, Lo3 Wanhood and ALL PRIVATE DI3- EASES OF MEN. Call cn or address | Dr. Searles & Searles, 1416FAKNAM ST OMAHA. NEB. NEW, Dr, E. C. West's Nervo and B: 1 sold under positive written guarunt i0d ageute obly, L0 cure Weak &iom: Bratn and Nerve Power; Icat blanhood Niglt Losses; Evil Dreams; lack of 1 Nervousuess; Lassitede; all Drat of the Gemorative Orguns In oiti rerexertion: wex, cnumed by ‘outhful lirrars, or Exosesive Use of “Tobaceo, Opitim or Liquor, Wwhica soou Isad 4 sz, Gomauw ption, Tusanfly and Do, 12 b 6 for RoLwith wvitten cuamanten o cure or Tefund inoney. WEST'E COUGH SYRUP. & oartadr eare far Oowhs, Colds, Asthuie, Lrnehitls, Crouy, Whooping: Cough, Sord Throat: - Floasan 10 ks Smill wize & «coBiinind; old, 5. size, oW 356.; Ol - = AN tabd oaty by Goudman Drug Go,, Owmaba, | served in the Archives of YA TEMPLE OF BEAUTY, 146 State Street, Chicago, IIl. RANCISCAN DROPS .. Prepared from the original formula prev the Holy Land, hnw ing an autheutic history dating back 000 yoars. | A POSITIVE CURE foz all Stomach, Kidney 'ahd Bowel troubles, especjilly | VERONIC CONSTIPATION, Price 50 cents. Sold by all druggiste. The Franciscan Remedy Co., 184 VAN BUREN 8T., OHIGAGO, TLL. ~*for Circular and Ilustrated Calendas. Is the only SPECIALIST WO TREATS Az i MEN ONLY, W EXACT SI1ZE PERFE THE MERCANTILE IS THE VAVORITE TEN CENT CIGAR sale by all First Class Deslers. Manufactured by the F. R. RICE MERCANTILE CIGAR CO., Factory No. 304, St Louls, M