Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, September 23, 1894, Page 11

Large Burfaces of Shining Hair the Latest Mode in Hair Dresting. WAVES, CRIMPS AND BANGS NOT IN IT Wonderful Incrense In the Number of Col- lege Girlsa—Already 23,000~How Our Wealthiest Women Shop—Words for Womaun's Ear, Not many days ago a woman walked Into the dining room of a fashionable hotel at Narragansett Pier. Every one turn:d to Icok at her. First, they remarked that she was beautiful; next, that she was well grcomed, and the latter adjective was given mainly because of the simple shining colffure she wore. It was Baltimore's famous beauty, Mrs. Josse Tyson. The parting in her hair came fully across the head, the glossy lalr was rolled away from the ears and back to the low knot at the nape of her neck, without a ripple or an undulation. Not a stray hair floated over the forehead. It was as shining and precise a8 tue coiffture of a china doll. This effect, obtained by frequent and con: tinuous brushing, and a liberal use of water, in its bullding up, Is only the perfection of a style copled by most of the smart women at the fashionable resorts of the year. It is the beginning of the end of orna- mented locks, No waves, no crimps, no bangs for this winter is the verdict of several coiffeurs whom I interviewed on the subject. Of_course, diplomatic women will secure & compromise between the two extremes of fgnoring beauty for style, or viee versa The coiffeur said: “The primary step Is to have a parting broad and white down the center, after this the variations are arranged to suit the con- tour of the face. 1If a woman can adopt tic mevere style there is nothing more correct, If the forehead is excessively high the hair should be brushed vigorously away from the parting, and then loosely dropped down frem it; the tendrils that nature and not sclssors provide, loosely curled to soften the brow. This style will suit her face quite well. “But how about these annoying side locks Which are the heritage of a past style?” “Ah! the other ultra style arranges for them; when the hair has been dropped at the eide another parting should be made mround the head, just behind the ears. All the hair thrown forward by this should be gathered and rolled, the rolling commencing &t the ears and exiending upward. This should be carried a littie over the ears, then up to the middle of the head, where the eonter parting ends. There it should be ‘nl(l loosely Wwith the hands while it is con- med with tortoise shell side combs. This forms the neatest and most becoming frame for a slender face, The halr from the rell with that from the back is confined at the same place, Where the parting ends; then it is divided into four parts, each one twisted tightly a=d &l wound around Into a large knot that ex- nds down to the nape of the ne After he halr is gotten into very shining condi- n from continuous brushing the cof listen and glitter like the coils of a snake, 8o rapld and marked is this movement toward strajght coiffures that erimped locks begin to appear as bad form as dyed hair. Two years ago shell side combs came in and then went out, but the coming winter rfomues to see them in vogue again. Their ntroduction was for ornament, their reap- arance for necessity—how eise shall we eep short locks In place? High Spanish combs owned by great- grandmothers are being carefully mended and are worn with much sentiment by their | descendants. It fs useless to attempt those combs with hat or bonnef, but for house and evening wear they are exquisite. At a ent colonial tea the hostess wore the cst beautiful one I ever saw, handed down through her family trom Priscilla Ald The comb s the only style of metal per- mitted in the hair. Daggers, swords, gold pins, all will be considered bad form. As to the building of the head dress for soclal functions, the Psyche knot perched at the top of the head remains the favorite a:d ; some will adopt three puffs, the cen- one higher than the other, but behind ther style should be placed the ubiquitous jpanish comb. The hair must not be Wwaved at the back, but cirried up tightly to the knot, sagging at the back being con- sidered artistically Inelegant. That the low Langtry coll worn over the llar s coming back there {s no question. t is the rage in England, and while we mericans never go so far as to copy the glish woman's ~ colftures, for they are ways abominable, this part of it—the gtry knot—is picked up very quickly, 'ho ever popular figure 8 will be worn very w, and a style of plaiting the hair in or- Inary fashion and then reversing it over the ead to the parting and caught there by pins is quite general. 2 Blegant simplicity in halr dressing does, mot signify the less trouble. Our grand- f:olhan' advice of 100 strokes on rising and 00 strokes on retiring, to be dealt by the brush, s come back to us, and proves the only way to give the locks that sleek, glossy look so much to be desired, The "brightening up,” as the French term {t, Is managed by a sponge or light brush saturated with three-fourths of peroxide of bydrogen to one-fourth of ammonia, passed over the hair about twice In four weeks. This gives the red, live tinge that does not mppear artificial. It is best not to do it oftener than this, for frequent application turns the hair yellow. Within a period of thirty days the women's colleges that are dotted all over the United States will have reopened. This year there will be more pupils than ever. It will be the same as it has Léen overy year since women's colleges and the higher education of women generally have become 80 promi- nent. This steady rush of young women :: study seems Irresistible. Nothing stops It costs more or less for a girl to go to college, just the girl is more or less economical. She can go to Vassar for $700 & year, that is, if she will be moderately careful, writes 'a Boston correspondent of the New York Advertiser, If, however, she 18 careless, or even only extravagant, she can spend, without clashing with the col- lege authorities, $2,000 or $2,500. At Vassar the girls live in great dormitories, ch shares a room, sometimes with one, some: times with two companions. Most of the rooms have sitting rooms adjoining. The plain, necessary furniture is provided by the college, but that s only the skeleton upon which individual taste hangs all the pretty things which make these rooms so attractive. The rules are pretty strict at Vassar, There Is somewhat more freedom at Wellesley. There the girls live in a col- lection of dormitory buildings, and on ac- count of the smallness of the town, which takes its name and life from the college, perhaps, are permitted more freedom than &t Vassar. Here a clever. girl may be able Lo get along on $600 a year. Smith college Is the only real women’s “college” in this country. It is real in the point of absolute freedom of its student There the girls do exactly they like. They live in boarding houses in the tow; of Northampton or in hotels or in “hally attached (o the college. They come and g0 _exactly as any student of Yale or Har- vard. As the cost of living at Smith is antirely separate from that of tuition, it is elear that here more than anywhere else personal economy will count. Bryn Mawr, the famous college situated At the beautiful suburb of the same. name not far from Philadelphia, has more of the home feature about it than any of its equals scholarly rank. In fact, it I8 more like & great boarding house than like a college. It s most arlstocratic and expensive, and & LEirl could bardly go through there on less than $500 a year Mount Holyoke, sitwated in the town of th Hadley, in Massacuusetts, is perhaps oldest of the women's colleges as wuch. It is ated on & much simpler and less m::: plan than the four mentioned TRUMPET OF DAME GRUNDY | e v, but Nkewlse falls tehind them in From 4100 to $500 a year should be amply sufficlent to carry a girl through There are 167 colleges in the country ex- clusively for women and they have 23,000 students. These colleges are divided into twe classes First, those that are orga ized on the usual plan of the arts college, and second, those that give a complote course of instruction, beginning with the very elementary branches. Thore are fifteen of the former and 152 of the latter, The fifteen are ail well known, some of them famous, They aro Vassar, at Poughkeepsio; Barnard, Rufgers Female college, at New ety lls college, at Aurora; a _college, Ingham university, at Le N. Y.; Mills' college, in Calitornia; en’s college, of Baltimore; Clev:land College for Women, in Ohlo; Bryn Mawr university, In Pennsylvania; Smith college, at Northampton, Mass.; Wellesley, Massa- chusotts; Massachusetts Soclety for Collegiate [nstruction of Women, and Mount Holyoke seminary and college, in Massachusetts, and Evelyn college, in New Jorsey. The total number of students in the fstitutions named Is about 3,600, Generally sptaking. the tudents of our f-malo colleges are residents of small towns, and often the daughters of farmers. The city girls form but a small preportion, as the private academies aro nerally preferred by those bred In cities, The American college woman is the daughter of the farm, perhaps the village store- Kceper's only girl, and sometimes the pride d joy of some laboring man's household They are women with a purpose. Women who find mors interest in studying C. tran in studying the fashion plate, That is, when they go to college they learn to look to the fashions while there. Thelr college education completed they are the women who enter the prof: th> prizes and honors from the men, Almost $100,000 is yearly given to male college students in prizes, scholarships, ete. A little over $90,000 is the amount given to female students, sional schools and take Mrs. Cornellus Vanderbilt very rarely “skops” in America. She buys nearly every- thing in Europe in the way of dresses and silk underclothing and bonnets. Her simple belongings of dress are bought hero at a Broadway store by her mald, a pretty young woman of experience in buying, says a writer on the New York Sun. Tho articles are almost invarfably paid for at once, so that the tradesman, though he may wonder at the large purchase made by the simply dresged young woman, does not know that he has been supplying the wife of one of the richest men in America with fans, handker- chiefs and ribbons Mrs. George Gould imports many of her gowns, but still buys a great many in Anerica. She is very sensitive about the charge of spending her money abroad. Sometimes, with her four little children by her side, she drives to the down-town shops, gelting out along Fourteenth strect and com= Ing up town slowly, stopping at all the large stores until she finds what she wants, Her purchases are usually ‘“charged” and she makes a note of the amount. Mrs. Frederick Vanderbilt buys a great deal in person whenever she fs in this country, which, however, is not for a great part of ‘the yenr. She purchases Christmas gifts for her society of King's Daughters at Newport, and she personally buys presents for the servants of her home, just as Mrs Whitney did. When Mrs. Levi P. Morton goes shopping she takes all her daughters with her. The plrchases made for them includes shoes, of which they buy a great many, presumably for their country rambles at Ellersiie, and heavy gloves, of which they also buy many, and ‘great quantities of material for plain gowrs. Mrs. Morton has a great deal of her daughters' dressmaking either done at home or made to order from her own materials, The young ladies laugh a great deal, reem quite free from vanity, consider- ing how pretty they are, and are not critical as to shades and materials, When the Rockefeller ladies go shopping they are the most unassuming women in the stores. They buy very few gowns, but they gel many sets of underwear, presumably for the poor women of their hospital work, and they buy much flannel and muslin. Their purchases never foot up to great bills, and they invariably pay cash. They trade only at certain stores and always go in a carriage, ustally & tightly closed one. No one sus- pects Miss Afta to bo the richest girl in Awerica, nor her sister to be, in addition to her great wealth, one of the finest musicians in the world among amateurs. Mrs. John Jacob Astor is never what can be called an “unassuming”’ woman. She is 100 pretty for that. She dresses quietly, but s0 well that people notice her; and, as she runs an account at the leading dry goods stores, the clerks know her, and quietly pass along the word that here 18 the richest young matron in the world. Mrs. Astor buys her own child's dresses and the little things of the nursery. She also purchases everything of value in the house, including her own table linen and the glass and dishes, which, some- how, always need replenishing in a million- aire’s house. She flits from counter to coun- ter, Invariably attracting attention, but her- self apparently unconscious of it. Her maid also buys for her when she s too busy to take the time for a shopping tour. Mrs. Willie K. Vanderbilt used to be the terror of the shopkeepers b:cause she had a penchant for having the whole store to her- self. “Close the doors!” ‘‘Send those people out!" she would say imperiously. Her dis- like to mingling with everybody was due to the fact that her face had become well known and crowds of ill-bred people would gather around to see what she would buy. After a while she refused to go shopping at all and sent eith:r a friend, a secretary or a mald to execute her commissions. It is not supposed that Miss Helen Gould, that most independent of millionairesses, ever goes shopping herself, yet, if the truth were known, she can be scen at least one day In the week in the large shops buying things for the poor. The little cripples of Woody Crest are dressed in the clothing selected by her- self, and the girls of her advanced training school for the teaching of floriculture wear the dresses bought by her. Miss Gould buys for her own weéar the most expensive clothing, but she chooses dark colors, and is particular only about the fit, She shops either in a hired cab or a closed carriage of her own, Nobody knows it is she, as the pictures la- beled ““Miss Helen Gould” do not resemble her in the least. She has not been photo- graph:d for fourteen years—since she was a child, Mrs. William Astor's dressmaker does the shopping for that wealthy lady. She knows what color—now always black—her patron desires, and she gets the best there is, Mrs, Astor mever buys jewels now, as she has more than enough o leave heirlooms to all her children and their children besides. Mr. Astor always showered them upon his wife. Mrs. Astor's gowns are for the most part bought abroad. But mow she gets them in this country during midscason, ag Worth re- fuses to make dress:s more than for three months ahead. ‘Fashions change so now that this fall's styles will be positively Gothic by winter,” he says to those who want him to make them for a year, or to last until spring Mrs. Ward McAllister rarely goes shopping. Her daughter Louise does the family buying, assisted by her father, the ever-wise Ward. Mrs. McAllister, about whom so little is known, is something of an invalld, with a fancy for remaining indoors and reading, There are winters when she does not go out at all. She dresses falrly well in simple house gowns, but wears neither many jewels nor elaborate creations of dress at any time. Wh:n she goes out, it Is always in the open carriage so often seen standing in front of Mr. McAllister’s door, ‘When Mrs. Grover Cleveland goes shopping she selects a rainy day.. Then she goes alone, driving to the shop in a closed carriage and ordering her purchases sent home. The last time she went shopping was just before she went to Gray Gables for the summer. Her principal purchases were little summer dresses for the children and shade hats for herself. To the clerk who waited upon her she made one or two very pointed remarks about allowing her shopping to become public property. The clirk felt hurt and told the proprietor, who assured Mrs. Cleveland that none should know what she bought. But the reporter was there. When shopkeepers know they are coming small private rooms are riserved for the wives of millionaires, who buy in an hour as much as ordinary folk buy in a year; and several clerks are detalled to wait upon the ladies whose time is so precious to roclety. Very often appointments are made by maids, and the lady goes when her secretary tells her there is a time appointed. That Is the way several of New York's time-pressed mil- lionaire women manage. However it may be arranged, the shopkeepers are glad to see CTHE OMAMA them. and sinesrely tharkful that so d:sirable patrons do not carry all their spending mone across the water. While we have an almost Incessant com- plaint of the servant girl, of her shorteom- ings In general and in particular, we hear little about the housekeeper's obilgation to at least provide her with a few more com- | forts and attractions than she has enjoyod | While the sclentists are contending over | the problem of whether man is greater thun his environment, says the New York He we would do well .to assume that woman is not, and that a room so arranged and equipped that it will give a most im- pressive object lesson in meatness and order is a surer method of instruetion than all the puts fn red powder till the wash is a bril- liant pink or ochre, making it pale yeilow, or their favorite apple green Large lithographs of country scenes were framed in oak frames. A small outlay in- cluded a splasher, cretonne covering for cushions in the large rocker, and serim cur- tains inside the green Toller shades. There were washable mats and a pin cushin on the bureau, and a bright carpet rug heside each single bed, and a cupboard put In for clothes. Though a Protestant, she recognized necds other than her own, and hung up a simple crucifix over an engraved Madonna; and these thoughtful though Inexpansive evi- dences of her care for her servants have al: ways been rewarded by faithful service and personal attachment. One of the fads of this season {n England has not been adopted here. This Is the walking tour. Small parties of ladies, prop- erly chaperoned, have been walking through yme of the most beautiful portions of riral gland, and as they have not left the region of comfortable inns, they have enjoyed thieir Journeys very much. Before stariing, a route is fixed upon by the aid of the road map, and the innkeepers are communicated with' in advance. Fashioh Tips. Black ostrich boas will be much more in favor than ever for the deini-saison. A new moire ribbon with a thin reverse, plain and shot, is very prait taffeta Knickerbocker tweed is A locsely woven but very firm stuff that is fleckal with color. The Trouyille Is a new stripes and shaggy oblong dots the lines. Entire costumes will this winter be made of Persian Inmb and other varieties of fur. Blue and green and blue and loi'atrope are two of the fashionable combinations Just now. Alpine checks have a complicotica of bars and lines which are like plaids In (heir in- terlacings. Hand painted Dresden china buttons loak English cloth with between particularly well on is XV suits with a stock and lace jabot. Red currants are being used for dress trimmings for evening wear, and make & most brilliant trimming. Among the new materinls of the seacon is the shot Chine gremaline, usially on a dark ground, and made up over shot glace. Gray serge of the black and white mixture wears well and is a welcome change from the blue and black serges so long worn. In day dresses broad horizontal stripes are being treated very successfully. "they are cut so as to form chevrons down the front. The enormous collars in the various kinds of heavy lace are very stylish, but need to be worn with very large sleevas to really look well. All the new French skirts are made with an opening on either side of the front but- toned with flags. This is especially becom- ing to stout figures. The embroidered Cairo zouaves and belts are very pretty to wear Wwith different bodices and create quite a change in the effect of a plain gown. Chine strij in the center of corded grounds have a pretty effect, and the white lace designs over satin and the reversible velvet and satin ribbons are particularly pretty. The very newest watches are of gold and steel, secured on the left revers of the cor- sage by a litlle golden rosette—a pretty fashion and quaint, if neither very com- venient nor safe. The use of silk and especially of taffetas is much remarked this season. There is a positive rush after the check silks. The striped silks are also popular. All small designs, whatever the fabric, are In demand this season. The autumn and winter jackets shown In the shops are cut long with very full backs and fitted closely to the figure with coat collars and large revers. The materfals are cheviot, covert cloth, diagonals, kersey cloth, and chinchilla beaver. A short double-breasted coat of blue cloth cut off at the waist, and fitting the figure closely at the back, having a border of chin- chilla all around and wide gantlet cuffs and revers of the fur, is one of the stylish coats prepared for early fall wear. Femlinine Notes. Miss Frances E. Willard has been granted the degree of doctor of laws by the Ohio Wesleyan university. Miss Ansell, who was recently married to Mr. J. M. Barrie, nurs:d the famous novelist through his recent illness. The queen of Saxony maintains three physiclans whose sole duty is to attend the allments of the suffering poor. In Portugal a married woman may not publish her literary work without her hus- band’s consent, which should he unjustly withhold, she may supply the place of by a judge's authorization, Ladies seldom rise in Spain to receive a male visitor and they rarely accompany him to the door. For a Spaniard to give a lady—even his wife—his arm while out walking is looked upon as a violation of proprizty. Miss Braddon's new purchase in the heart of the New Forest comprises a comfortable residence of moderate size, pretty grounds and gardener's cottage—in all extending to about six acres. The woodland scenery in the neighborhcod is scarcely equaled in the country. In Japan the shopkeepers and tradespeople of all kinds offer thelr customers tea and cake before they show goods or attempt any salés; that is, all did formerly, and most do now: some of the shops retain many good customers by their delicious, tempting sweets and tea, The Perslan woman does mot know the use of the knife and fork, or, if she does, scorns to make use of them. All her food is spread upon the floor and eaten with the fingers, a practic: which, fn_spite of numer- ous ablutions, still leaves the hands of the fair one a trifle greasy. She eats frequently, more for distraction than from hunger, and devours fruit, sweetmeats and pastry be- tween meals, washing them down with coplous draughts of sherbet. Altogether the fair Persian would seem to lead a particularly easy and aimless existence, Our Australian friends have hit on a pretty device as a substitute for the practice of throwing rice over a bridal pair as they leave the church or start for their honey- moon. At a wedding In Sydney the guests showered rose leaves over the happy couple when they took their departure for the wedding tour until the bride was literally covered with the rosy petals as she sat in the carriage. This is & much more poetic way of symbolizing on desire that the union may be prosperous and happy than the more irritating shower of rice that scratches the skin, ruffles the temper, and possibly lodges in the eyes of the groom and bride. l ‘ DAILY BEE RUSSIA AND MER PEASANTS Innumerable Petty Restriotious Placed Upon Her Army nf;?n uere, THZ COVERNMENT Ifl ULL CONTROL Perm ission Must Ble Asked to to Roof n House, to Luy or Sell, Take a Trip and to Do Many Other reprimands and lectures which we are w e to bestow upon the very fallible maid N Erin or other immigrant servitors. | g A . It 1s an unaccountable phase of the vannfed (Copyrighted, 1804, by Irving Syndicate.) “sisterhood of woman” that in many hoines [ Various reasons have been assigned by of plenty, o even moderate luxury, the serv- | Russian writers for the unsatisfactory econ- ants quarters are no more attractive Of | nomic condition of the Russian peasant comfortable than bare white walls and small [ o o0e o il IS bt ek sk Toe armer. ne party maintains that it is There Is a better way than this, for cne | mainly due to the primitive system of com- woman at least, who has tried it, keeps ber | munal land tenure, which prevalils in Russia, Fw‘n n x: 80 I m:”un ”I ;u mwlL ; ? means | and that the first thing to be done Is to abolish —that her neighbors belleve she has ThRG atatn s ARRRER 4 ¢ occult power over them. This hidden power | Lot S¥Ster €80 transiorm the peasants into L HoTvvor, peiHIAG grakter. & dependent farmers owning their lands in tUFe 7%In AR GAN--SbRRIASEAtIoN. ToF severalty. Another party asserts that the mary needs of those dependent fellow cree- | form of land tenure has nothing to do with tures who, if subservient, are ulso human. | the peasant's impoverishment, that the root Believing it sanitary to have tue walls of | op ovil Is 10, b, found-1n &, primiive the servants' room whitewashed every | oo, (0T R B ther th spring, she overcomes the chilling effect by LA b X d b (R S i stirring a small portion of aniline dveing | M & primitive method of holding or dis- powder in the mixed lime to color It, for the | tributing it, and that the best way to im- maid dearly loves color, Somatimes she | prove the moujik's economic condition is to furnish him with modern agricultural imple- ments and better seed and show him how to increase the product of his land by means of fertilization and greater intensity of cul- ture. A third party contends that neither in- dividual ownership mor better methods of cultivation will give prosperity to the peas- ant unl:ss he can be freed from the oppres- sion of local usurers and speculators (“fists” and ‘“commune-caters”) who have reduced him to a state of economie slavery and who now “squeeze’ him in his time of need, and unjustly appropriate a large part of his earn- ings. FUNDAMENTAL DEFECTS. Each of these explanations is supported by facts, and each of them, doubtless, con- tains an element of truth, but it does not seem to be worth while to subject them to critical examination, for the reason that, from any point of view, they are not funda- mental. Under them &nd back of them lie causes of much greater efficiency and explanations that are far more reasonable and convineing. If the peasant were free to plan and regulate his own life he would thrive and prosper, even under a communal form of land tenure. If he were properly educated and informed he would see for himself the defects in his present system of agriculture, and take su le steps to remedy them. Fiually, if he were both free and educated, he would not be long in cmancipating himself from the control of usurers and speculators, Every one, therefore, of the reasons above signed for popular impoverishment pre- supposes either a lack of freedom or a lack of knowledge, and it is to these deficiencies, rather than to th proximate results, that I desire to call attention. The unsatisfac- tory economic condition of the Russian p:ople is ‘mainly attributable, it scems to me, to two causes, namely, (1) oyer-regulation, re- straint, and interference ‘on'the part of the government, aud, (2) ignordnce, discourag:- ment and a sort of apathefic hopelessness on the part of the govertie TOO MANY BOSSES. The Russian people in general, and the peasants In particular, -have always b:en treated by the government, as if they were ignorant, irresponsible ,and, rather feeble- minded children, who are incapable of in- dependent action and rational self-control, and who must, therefore, be subjected to a rigid system of administratiyé protection and guardianship. The thedry upon which the government proceeds, or secms to proceed, is that the citizen not only s incompetent to take part in the managemént of the affairs of his own household, ahd, that from the time when he leaves his cradle and begins the struggle of life, down td the time when his weary gray head is @nally lald under the sod, he must be guided,“dirédted, instructed, restrained, regulated, repressed, fenced in, tenced out, braced up, kept down and made to do generally what somebody else thinks is best for him. The natural outcome of this paternal theory of government is, of course, stag- nation, apathy and the complete paralysis of individual enterprise. It Is a well set- tled principle of intellectual growth and development that faculties improve in pro- portion as they are exercised, and that the more and more successful ~adaptation of means to ends, which is the very essence of progress, depends largely, if not wholly, upon the power of making a free and intelli- gent choice between alternative courses of action. If you control and regulate every act of a man's life and repress every at- tempt that he makes to adapt means to ends in accordance with his own observa- tion and judgment, you not only check the growth of his intellectual facuities, but you virtually kill the spirit of enterprise upon which his progress depends and turn him into a mer: working machine. You may, by your system of rigid control, prevent him from making mistakes that he would perhaps make if left alone; but, on the other hand, you compel him to bear the burden of ali the blunders that you yourself make in this field, owing to your unfamiliarity with it, and ‘you d:prive him of the advantages that he might derive from successful experiments of his own. The case of the Russian peasant is even harder than that here assumed, for the rea- son that he has twenty or thirty guardians instead of ome. The directions of a single guardian may be consistent, one with an other, and may have a certain definite unity of plan; but orders issued by twenty or thirty different authoriti:s are likely to be as heterogeneous and conflicting as to make obedience to them all disastrous, If not ab- solutely impossible. That obedience to the orders of his multi- farious “'bosses” has been disastrous to the Russian peasant appears with sufficient clear- ness from the fact that ever since he ceased to be a serf and became nominally a citizen his history has been a record of increasing subjection to administrative authority on the one hand, and of constantly decreasing selt-reliance, enterprise and prosperity on the other, until, at last, he has become a living illustration of his own provrb, that “a child with seven nurses always grows up crooked.” BURDENSOME RESTRICTIONS. There are at the present time no fewer than twenty-five different local officials who have something to say in regard to the man- ner In which the Russian peasant shall live, conduct himself and manage his business, and without permission from one or more of them he can hardly take any important step to improve his own condition or promote the welfare of his neighbors. If, for ex- ample, he wishes to0 go to the nearest provin- clal town in search of modern agricultural implements or of a better market for his products, he must apply to the police au- thorities’ for permission and must walt pa- tiently until they fre ready to grant it. If he goes more than twenty miles from his home without the permission of the police duly endorsed upon his pagsport he is liable to be arrested and sent back like an escaped criminal by etape. If he \ishes to migrate to another part of the empire he must get the permission of the chmmune to which he belongs, of the local pdlice, of the governor of the province and of ~the ministry of finance. If he desires fo prect a bathhouse on his premises he must have permission. If his house happens to burn down he must camp out In the streets until he gets per- mission to rebuild, If ke desires to put a roof of thatched straw ‘wpdf his new house he must have permissioh o do %o, and must agree to smear the strdyw With a mixture of clay and water so that it will not readily e fire from sparks. If he wishes, on a spring or summer holiday, to decorate his house or the village church with young birch trees he must have permission to go into the forest and cut them. If he desires to thresh out his grain in the evening by candlelight he must ask permission. ‘ If he absents him- self from the church and neglects for a cer- tain stated time to partake of the holy com- munion he is “‘admonished” by the police It the governor neglects to provide him with educational facilities and he undertakes to open In his native village & small primar; achool, where his own and his nelghbor's children can learn to read and write, he is at once stopped by his bureaucratic guardians and severely reprimanded for daring to act in such & matter without suthority. 1t he desires to counteract’ the evil ine ) fluence of the kabek, or village drinking SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 1894 s izt saloon, by establishing a smail village - brary, he must first get special permission and ‘must then confine himself ulmost wholly In his selection of books to literature of a moral and religlous character which has been approved by the ec tical as well as the clvil censorship, and which is about as stimulatiag and nourishing to the mind as an infusion of bran In holy water would be to the body. If an educated young peasant returns from the university to his native vil- lage and wishes to furnish his less fortunate friends and acquaintances with rational amusement and instruction by giving free public readings from popular authors with magic lantern {llustrations he must first get a certificate of ‘“‘political trustworthiness” from the curator of the educational district, then obtain the permission of the local eccle- slastical authoritics and the governor of the province, and finally give his entertainment under the supervision of the police. In short, there is hardly a field of human activity in which the Russian peasant can escape from the control of his bureaucratic nurses, and do as he wonld like to do. He is not supposed to have ability enough to plan anything for himself, and Is officially glven credit for even less intelligence than that shown by a squir- rel. The latter, without Instruction or com- pulsion, stores up food in time of plenty to meet his wants in time of need; but the peas. ant, In the opinion of the government, has not’ sense enough to imitate the squirrel, or the bee, and must, therefore, be com- pelled every summer o put a in quan- tity of grain in a public storelouse unde: the supervision of officials in order that he may not starve to death as a result of his own improvidence and imbecility. PROHIBITED FROM SELLING HAY. In a recent number of a well known St Petersburg journal there Is published a cir- cular letter from the governor of a Russian province to the police of the rural districts directing them to take such steps as may be necessary to prevent the peasant farmcrs from selling thelr hay. The peasants, the governor s in the f , are apt to dispose of their hay to buy I at a low price in order with the proceeds certain “us luxury and display,” and unless they are pre- vented from so doing they are likely to part with fodder which they will afterwards need for the subsistencd of their cattle, The gov- ernor further suggests that in localities where hay is already scarce the peasants be directed to pile what they have of it with straw in alternate layers, “so that the straw may acs quire by contact the aroma, and to sume ex tent the taste of and so that the cattle may be induced to eat it. “Experience has shown,” the governor says in conelusion, “that the peasant farmer needs careful guardianship, as well as pro- tection from his weakness for drink and his thoughtless prodigality. All officials, there- fore, who have direct authority over him, must constantly remind him that he has been given an allotment of land solely in order that he may live and pay his taxes, and that the product of such land must be devoted to these purposes exclusively." SERFS OF THE CROWN, 1t would be hard to find a more apt illus- tration of the attitude of the government toward the governed than that furnished by this typical letter of instruction. The peasant, in the view of the official, is mot an enfranchised citizen, born with right to “life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness.” He is merely a serf of the crown who has been given an allotment of land in order “that he may live and pay taxes,” and who must be prevented, by careful guardianship, from pursuing happiness in any way that would tend to impair his tax-paying power or his value as a domestic anfmal. How ‘“care- ful” the “guardianship” of the local officials is we may Infer from the fact that it extends even to the disposal of the peasant's sur- plus product and to such matters of dom: tic economy as the best means of giving to dry straw the aroma and the taste of hay. In valn, of course, to expect that peasant farmers who are subjected to this vexatious system of bureaucratic control will ever hecome either enterprising or Prosperous. A man quickly loses interest In his work if he is not allowed to plan it, and the work jtself soon becomes unproductive if directed by inexperienced and incompetent overseers. Russian officials as a class are not trained cconomists—they are not even well educated men. In the province of Samara only 5 per cent of the officials appointed by the ministry of the interior (thirty-one out of §95) have had a liberal education, and in the province of Vilna only 23 per cent of the police have had even a common school training. —To suppose that such men are more capable of managing the peasant’s business than the peasant is of managing his own business Is, to say the least, unreasonable, and to fin- trust such men with discretionary controlling power over the lives and the activities of $0,000,000 of people is to Aiscourage indlvid- ual enterprise, hamper individual effort and deprive the empire of half its productive force. NEED GREATER INDIVIDUAL LIBERTY. From the facts above set forth with re- gard to the economic condition of the Rus- sian peasant and the vexatious and erip- pling Testraint to which he s subjected by his bureaucratic guardians it must, I think, be evident that one of the first and most urgent of the reforms needed in Russia is a reform in the direction of greater Indi- Vidual liberty. If the government will abolish its oppressive and humiliating passport sys- tem, abolish its policy of bureaucratic guard- janship and control, make the viilage com- munes free in fact as they are in theory, leave the management of local affairs to the provinclal and cantonal assemblies and en- courage individual enterprise and local public spirit, instead of systematically discouraging and repressing them, It will remove one of the causes of national impoverishment and carry forward the great work which the Czar-Liberator began of transforming a horde of ignorant, helpless and dependent serfs into a nation of capable, energetic, self-respecting -reliant citizens. s s GEORGE KENNAN. Baldeck, Nova Scotia. —————— Cook's Imperial. World's falr “‘highest award, excellent champagne; good cfferves- cence, agreeable bouquet, delicious fiavor.” APOLEON'S MAXIMS. There are calumnies against which even innocence loses courage. He who Is unmoved by tears has no heart, Tt is the cause and not the death that makes the mariyr. Military bravery has nothing in common with civileourage. The' consclence is the inviolable asylum of the liberty of man, Grief has its bounds, which must not be excezded. All predictions are impostures, the result of traud, folly, or fanaticism. Experience is the true wisdom of nations, Greatness is nothing unless it be lasting. The best way to cure the body is to quiet the mind. Fortune has always been the first title to consideration. Girls cannot be better brought up than by thelr mother; public education s not suitable to them. There Is no more fatal misfortune for a man than to allow himself to be governed by his wife; in such case he s neither himself nor his wife; he is simply nothing. In great crises it is woman's lot to soften our misfortunes. ) Fanaticism must be lulled firs that it may be uprooted. Nothing is done while something still re- mains to be done. The woman we love is always the most beautiful of her sex. When firmness is unnecessary. SOME OF in order suficient rashness is THE CHARM OF BEAUTY 18 everywhere recognized. Beauty and en nged appearance are impossible, One woman In & million is pretty with gray hair. The others must preserve thelr hair and thelr beauty by " IMPERIAL - Hair REGENERATOR 1t s ot a dye, but a coloring, clean, health- ful efficlent. It ‘not only restores to a rich, beautiful color and lustre, but acts as a half 1040 also. Beven shades from lightest ash blond 10 raven black. Made only by IMPERIAL CHEMICAL MFG. CO, 92 Fifth Avenue, New York 80ld by Sherman & McConnell, 1613 Dodge 8t., Omaha, Nebraska, MEMPHTS APPEAL-AVALANCHE, March 16, ASHVILLE BANNER, March 19, 1804, —Th There was o ‘bright sparkle i her eyes sl rose and Mme. Yale' in il hes and her eomely goiden’ head bowed . kraceul s red re hee admiring ecknowledgment of the applause with which she say that she fs lovely gives but ;\:u 14”» ve It \‘\.w n‘\\\\ nll by all who had her beauty, Her b & ook Wiy his Opportunity to admire hor | perfect figure brilliiney and fire that she was faultless. B har o bd e LEVELAND PLAINDEALER 1804— | L DETROIT TRIBUN 6, 191.~This was thusiasts havo likened her to renawned | Mme. Yale, who in v acknowledged 4 figure of Venus di M. s 1n her | Years, stood thers like a young goddess in all of €Oy PoveRsea: Bor telden Maired eawiy, ™ fiving ribte ta ORLEANS PICAYUNE, March 11, 18 CHICAGO HERALD, Jan. 16, 1504, ~Unexpocted s Clsp or W wo- | musclew appeared and’ dhpneared. The. spectas 3 $ ors their breatn, lost in admiration. Il}ll,fl_} l:‘lh 2, ‘Wl‘l \|.| agreed 'IHI\ FON HERALD. March 1, 1864 e lhf'\‘l the certainly the most marvelous wo- | face of u young irl wWith blond o i man kn o the ¢ h since Helen of Troy ght curling and’s neok drovo men mad With"her charma, 1" | ol air an"a "bayta, oI fEUFo and " neck Mme, Yule guarante-s the public that she was not born beantiful, complexion remedies huve done the work for her. them, Mme. M. Yale’s Excalsior Complexion Remedies the Key=No PRICK Pimples, DI and Skin Diseases cu 1 Pl Jlack Fimin icd, Bis Plostom s St ot R R e Ficesir Sk Fo. Hosrae. o e ook dad Rusnsert, '3 g, TP, Comiexon Bieah. s Crenie, MysvaMe s R e M Price 42,00 ber bottle; wix for_$o.00, "o RGBT Hair i, i 18 e et o TG B B B gl s S el o e N e e I O R Price $2.00 per bottle; $5.00 for three bottles. pe n beautiful bust » the na flesh and crentes e foteates Grent 8o S Al oot i A pokide Mine, Yalvs wontietsl sty ot temoying Al e e b 1 juussiit e g 8 o ol 800 ey every tr in one upplication, Price $5.00. 10 Freckin and Frecktes. M S el R e knirajep bahe iy e e Ciedhio: 1 o A T U the complexion become as clear Price §1.00 per bottle. a8 erystal. SOLD BY DRUGGISTS. Full line carried by Kuhn & Co., 15th al and Howard. Kinsler Drug Co., 16th and F 8. Davis, Council Bluffs, and by il druggists, Richardson Drug Company, Omaha, Mall orders and corresponaence may be sent to Mme Yale's ieadquarters TEMPLE OF BEAUTY, rmam, W. J. Hughes, 24th and Farnam, ENDORSED Y CONGRENS Medal and Diploma Awarded by World’s Fair MME. M. YALES Beauty. Her marvelous Tuey will do vhe same for all who use te to Beauty. LIST Bxcelsior Amand Blossom Coniexion Gream Refines ¢ SNAZIOVaIY: ‘I‘v';hl_:_xi;xwvlu-x-n the skin smooth EXce'sior Hand Whitenor Makex the hands soft, 1ily white and beauti Fole and Wart Extracior :f:.:l::,“;:u«’:f‘g ‘:L-\\Xv\!fl forever moles and Eye-Lash and Eye-Brow Grower R A A R L n‘w‘l‘ A tities the eyes; guaranteed pure. 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Prematurencss means impotency in & symptom of seminal weakns It can be cured in 2 days use of Hudyan. The new discovery was made by the speclalists of the old famous Hudson Medical Institute. It Is the mtrongest vitalizer made. It Is veiy power ful. but harmless. Sold for $1.00 a package, or six packages fof $5.00 (plain sealed boxes). Written guarantee given for a cure. If you buy x boxes, and are not entirely cured, six more will be sent to you free of all charge. Bend for circulars and testimonials. Address HUDSON MEDICAL INSTITUTZ Junetion Stockton Market, and Ellis Streets, San Francisco,Cal. GONSUMPTION SURELY CURED. To ra Epiron—Please inform your read- ers that 1 have a positive remedy for the above mamed disense. By its timely use thousands of hopeless cases have been per- manently cured. I shall bo glad to send two bottles of iny remedy free to any of your readers who Lave consumption if they will sendme their express and post office address. T, A. 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