Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, September 9, 1894, Page 18

TRUNPET OF DAME CRUNDY The Great Demand for Photce a by of Fair and Distinguished W.m . FACES THAT SELL AND FACES THAT DON'T MHow Fumous Heauties Retain the Bloom of Youth-Langiry, Kendall, Metba and Putth Use Face Massago—Words for Woman's Ear. There Is English York has failed to adopt. One can go into a picture shop in London and buy the “last likeness” of any of the nobllity, the season's debutante, the writer of the last book or the bride of an M. P. There Is no restriction as to whom they shall be sold or in what numbers. Yestorday I visited many of the noted shops on Fifth avenue and Broadway where plctures of colebrities are on sale, and re- marked that the fac similes of Amerlcan Boclety women were consplcuous by their British beauties wera found In and I asked the disposer of them old best. “Welk"” she sald, “the pri mlways. The announcement of a new photo- graph of her s the signal for a demand Her last one, In court costume, in black, has been a tremendous favorite. “Next in favor,”” my informant continu “Is Lady Randolph Churchill. We sell two and three dozen of her, sometimes t in difterent attitudes, to one person. Her last —three-quarter length—which has just been sent over, is having a great run Of course, on every hand were to be seen plctures of the duchess of York and the baby prince. These, she said, had been sold by the hundreds Lady Londonderry fs always a drawing card. The favorite one of buyers seems to be the one where she carries her crown so regally and yet wears such a pathetic cx- pression. It would seem a fit llustration for a very old proverb, but it makes a beau- tiful picture. The famous lovely duchess of Lel, constantly asked for. “Does Mrs. Langtry still sell “No, indeed. We rarely have a call for her. But,” she smiled, “‘we've made ex- peuses from her in her day. “‘Here is one from Vienna that fs quite the rage now. It is Miss Martens, the V. ennese beauty. She, with her two sisters have a fad for training parrots and give public performances in the large German clties, Her style of dress is usually that Bgyptian fellah woman, with much festoon- ing of sequins. The photos are all taken in this pleturesque costume, with a large parrot resting on her arm. “Who are the popular actresses?’ I In- quired. “Mary Anderson used to rival Mrs. Lang- try, then Mrs. Brown Potter; but now Emma Eames s our star. There seems to be no end to the call for her. When the opera season was on we thought Calve's popularity would run her a close parellel, but the rage for the French woman is over, while every new attitude we handle of Mme. Bames in is successful. Then Caroline Miskel-Hoyt is always In demand. ““You must sell them more on the consider- ation of how they look than what they do, then?" “1 have always thought that. Faces ke Marie Studholme’s—you know, the head with the eyes closed and the wreath about ft—are as popular, If not more so, than Bllen Terry. These photos, I fancy, must be bought by people making collections of pretty women. Della Fox Is a good card; so is Marie Tempest. Mrs. Cleveland and Lilllan Russell stand about together in their Bfeat sales, “Now, as to socicty women of America?" 1 asked; “have you any of those?" “Mrs. Duncan Elliott and Mrs. Burke- Reoche ara the only two,” she answered. ‘Try as we will we can’t get others, We Jhave tried, but found it impossible to get either Vanderbilts' or Astors’. Nor can we procure pictures of women in official life in Washington. ‘A8 1o writers? .Oh! Helen Hunt Jack- son, Marie Bashkirtsef and Louisa Alcott “mell rapidly. We have dozens of calls for Amelio Rives-Chanler and Mrs. Van Rens- selaer Cruger, but we can't get permission to sell these either. There is a particularly beautiful one of Mrs. Chanler that we are 80 desirous of handling, but she won't allow it.” one custom that New new of Wales, cester is 1 asked. of an ‘When I was In London I saw a smart trap drive up to the door of the Hotel Victoria and a woman of exquisite pose get out. It was Mrs. Langtry. She was going later to the races and was faultlessly attired in & blue canvas tailor gown made over silk, a high white collar, black satin stock tie and a carnation for a boutonniere, “I believe she will be just as beautiful twenty years from now,” remarked a man ‘tanding near, “I fancy it will be said of her e of Cleopatra that ‘age cannot wither er. " But evidently Mrs. Langtry is not so san- guine about this, or she does not believe in allowing nature to take its usual conrse of providing wrinkles for all women who are reaching the shady side of 40. She was go- ing into the Victoria for the purpose of un- dergoing treatment at the hands of a woman moted for face massage; one, who though American, takes charge each season of the faces of some of England's famous beauties, putting the skin in perfect condition. Mme. Nellie Melba, wifo was stopping at the Hotel Metropole next door, was also go- ing through the same treatment, taking it each morning after her breakast. Thinking that a face manipulation which deserved attention from two such famous women must be a good thing to know, I Bought an interyiew with the little woman ‘Who had Invented the lotions used and that special twist of the wrist upon which beauti- ful women depend to restore wrinkled or faded complexion. First comes the massage. She goes over the skin of the face again and again, rubbing it In circles with only the tips of her fingers, The wrinkles are smoothed upwards and the hllnod in the veins brought into quick eircula- tion. After twenty minutes of this movement a soft white cream is applied to the skin in the same manner. This Is thoroughly worked in until the face is in a profusa perspiration. Then a flannel cloth dipped In rain water {or any distilled water) is softly and continu- cusly rubbed over the skin, removing all tho particles of dust and grease that neces- sarily accumulate in the pores, especially when the woman s on the stage and has to resort to the ‘“footlight makeup.” A strange lotlon which looks and smells Uke paregoric follows, which is sparingly used, to harden the muscles and make the skin firm. It is clained that the harder the flesh the more perfect the coloring of the skin. It is on this ground that Melba, Lang- try, Mrs. Kendall and others who take this treatment abjure the use of the now popular “double” veil, worn so much by American ‘women to prevent tan and soften the com- plexion. English women know that the op- Posito method of exposing the skin produces the best rosult. The “double veil” will un- doubtedly counteract its advantage of a tem- porarily white skin, for lines about the mouth and eyes assuredly follow. “The firmer the muscles of the face the loss anxiety for the finger marks of age or care,” is madame's motto. This treatment belongs to the morning; the night method is nearly the same, only that a cream of herbs is supplied at the finalo that is allowed to remain through the sleeping hours. A carcful rubblng with rain water, the first thing upon awakening, re- moves this. Mme. Melba was just finishing her six weeks of treatment thatday, as she was (o loave for her Paris home, after her English season. Sho said (his face doctoring did away with all the evil eflects of work and worry, The benefits last for a year and then it would be gone all over In the same manner by the same woman. It was as beneficial, she thought as a season at the Dbaths. Langtry was beginning her cours> and Mrs. Kendall concluding hers, Pattl bas the treatment administered to every spring at her Welsh castle. 8he brings the New Yofk masseuse over an tertains her for a month and a half at Craig- y Nos, There she religiously goes through the ordeal with as much consclence and earnestness as if she were In a retreal. For six years she has repeated this method. It is no doubt that partly to this fact she owes that splendid skin which seems to defy years or bard work. With her usual generosity the diva gives, after each treat- ment, some souvenir to the little masseuse. None but the rich deserve this falrness, it seems, for the bill for the six weeks con- sists of three figures, $500. Still for women to whom this represents but one night's earnings the amount Is a mere bagatelle to pay for the entire restoration of the skin. 1 was particularly interested In the method of this face treatment, for it is so opposed to the American beauty's idea of preserving the skin. She soaks hers in glycerine, rose water or vascline, thickly protects it from every breeze that blows, all of which makes it flabb; Our English sister, on the other han takes every cara to prevent softness, As these prominent women have taken up this new cure it will probably soom be the fashion for every woman who can af- ford it In fact, the princess of Wales is to be the next and most important personage for the little American masscuse to deal with and then there is no more question as to its popularity. Although there are larger many end France, the mecst complete and perfectly modeled tnstitution of its kind in the world is at the Sloane Maternity hospi- tal in New York City. This building was erected six years ago by Mr. Sloane and en- dowed by his wife, a daughter of the late Willlam Henry Vanderbilt It stands upon the corner street and Tenth avenue, fine view of the Hudson riv I am requested to remain tion rcom a few moments the doctor sees a visitor, In th y 1 hear the rustle of silk and the sound of a woman's a8 fresh as a sea breeze. She makes inquiries concerning tients and the babies, and there fumo of country flower The opens and closes, while some one “That was Mrs. Sl:ane herself, sonally supervises dhe hospital.” “The fnstitution is prepared to accommo- date forty-five patients at a time, but cften cares for fifty,” began my guide as we reached the landing and crossed the mar- ble floor of this upper hall and entered the most perfect operating room the imagina- tion eould picture. The room was entirely fitted marble, both floor and dado, with hard fin- ished wall above, A broad window to the left, a snowy table couch in the center, fur- nished with sheets, coverlet and pillow for the patient by its side; a table made of many trays of glass, supported by four white legs; sails painted white set against the marble dado; a white cleset and shelf contained towels, instruments and appliances. A patient is delivered here and then placed on a streteler and taken to the cot signed her in the ward. An infant is taken directly to the nursery. The “sunny corner is devoted to the tlents' ward. Here are pleasant, clean looking women, reading, chattng and nurs- ing their bibles. Among them was one colored patient, average per cent in these Institutions. A vase cf country flow. ers stood on a table by one of the broad windows. They seemed a remembrance of tho woman who had called ones in Gel of Fifty-ninth comminding & in the recep- the pa- is a per- front door remarks, she per- in white pa- the Next came the nursery—we were greeted with a wail as the door opened. “We have had six babies born in the last twelve hours and they always cry at first to exercise their lungs.' Two nurses in spotless frocks of blue ging- ham with kerchiefs and aprons of muslin arose to greet us as the physician spoke. Zach held a tiny new-born tot. One of them handed the physiclan her infant. She looked an ideal foster mother, with kindly eyes and a wealth of light hair tinged with gray that suggested sufficient maturity to yield tender- ness and sympathy. The physician rubbed the palm of his big soft hand over the babe's head, holding it with the other. “This is the way to soothe a little baby,” he said; then turning It over he administered a queer little ‘“Jack-in-the- box" jerk, and the eyelids flew up, and sleepy eyes and a yawn greeted the Kindly doctor. He handled the little thing so firmly and gently, with security and tenderness. Cots placed sidewise against the wall about the room, and besides these two more stood in the center of the room. Each cot held a row of five or more babies, each little head pillowed against its own tiny pillow, and cach little body shieldsd with its own' little sheet and tiny blanket, summer weight. The first glance at these rows of tiny pink heads might suggest rose buds, but that would be ideglizing; they looked far more like radishes in a row, freshly plucked from the garden, with a brush of earth upon them, indicating baby hair. A colored baby, a tiny “plckaninny,” counted one in a row, and the physician told me that at this early state in its existence they were always quite as pink as the rest, and could only be distinguished by their hair. Another premature baby was In a state of incubation, ail done up in medicated cotton. Bach child wore a little ticket, or tag, upon which was written its number, indicating the number of the mother’s cot, whither each one is taken every two hours to nurse. The floor above is an exact duplicate of this one and above come the sieeping quarters of the servants. The house is lighted by elec- tricity and heated with steam. “We care for 1,000 patients a year. All we require s that she be in labor to receive her. If notified in advance of a patient's condition we ask that she will provide one suit of baby clothes to take her baby away in. As to the moral of it all, we have both single and married women in about equal proportion. We do not attempt to lecture them, it seems a poor time when a woman is in the pain and peril of childbirth, Ma- ternity should teach its own lesson. We usu- ally. dismiss a patient in ten days and often direct them to some institution or home. While inmates are with us thelr friends may inquire after them, but they are mot per- mitted to see them.” The English breakfast is a meal not under- stood by us. It may be served in the dining room or in the library. It Is more often “‘on call” than en famille, and there is a total absence, even in the highest circles, of for- mality In dress or In service. The viands are for the most part cold. The English will tell you that this is because they have learned that cold meats are more digestible than hot, and that it is vulgar to eat a heavy meal early In the day, but a shrewd observer attributes their preference to a combination of lazy servants and old-fash- foned stoves, which renders it difficult to get “‘a_heavy meal early in the day.” Where hot dishes are served they are apt to be “minced veal" or a few thin, crisp slices of Irish bacon. These, with new-laid eggs, invariably boiled or steamed, which latter s done at table, are all that are within reach. The cold meats, consisting of ham, tongue, “collared head,” etc., are placed on the sideboard. As no servant Is expected to be in attendance at this meal, the gentle- men of the family go back and forth from table to sideboard serving those who ask for “helpings.” The thoughtless, uninitiated American might object to such confusion and inconvenience, but John Bull delights in an affectation of stmplicity, and accomplishes informality In his usual clumsy fashion. Suoh a eonvenlence as a table bell Is an un- known article of furnishing. Should the servant by any chance bo wanted when out of the room, even at dinner, the mistress will rise from her chair and cross to the mantel, by the side of which is an electric button or bell-pull communicating with the kitchen. It is feared that the ladies will come down heavily on their feet from mow till next year, says the New York World Men's styles are the models for the fall and winter boots and shoes. The kid will have little to do with the footwear. Calf, goat, cow, hog and kanga- roo wi give up their skl to oblig: the taflor-made girl. All wint long brown boots will be worn. The smartest last is the pointed Plecadilly, with extraordinary vamps and hoels. One is as long as the index finger and the other as broad as the palm. These brown calfskins have straight tips and heavy soles. The newest are laced. Im deference to skirt frills, the patent fastenings had to be ignorzd. The strips are fancy stitched and the eyelets are very brassy. Bluchers are to have the choice for fino-weather boots, bat they go when th: snow comes. The demi-dress boot is precisely like the men's—soft tops, patent leather uppers and :llnled toes, with low-block hesls. All these nglish boots must be long. A No. 4 foot takes the usual width, but not less than a No. 6% boot. The shoes, while masculine enough fn cut to suit the most dudish girl, are medium. That is, the toes are less point:d, the heels are slightiy concave, the vamps are neither the French nor English length, and the soles ars bevelled. But the tips are straight, the stock is heavy, dark brown calf, and they are quite Engilsh enough to walk In without rubbers, Many of the house slippers are made on the London last in patent leather, with paper soles, These horrors have huge bows or rosettes on the laps to foreshorten the vamp, The daintiest house boot is a but- toned bronzo Kid. This is a style that goes with sandal-scented lace, old fans and ca- meos and the fine flavor of gentle birth. When a lady gets too old to wear a branzed boot, black satin is selected White shoes and stockings are listed for the -rest of the year to dance in, drive in, recelve in, visit in, or anything but walk in. he woman who puls a white foot on a cobble-stone Is beneath contempt. The spats to be worn with doubls-soled shoes are made of white varnished leather, white and colored impression cloth’ and glazed leather in black and brown. These gaiter tops are serviceable, but clumsy, sug- gesting club-fect or rheumatic joints. Senator Jarvis of North Carolina is only years old, says the Cincinnati Commer- -Gazette, though his white bhalr and beard and rather careworn face make him appear probably ten yesrs older. He tells an amusing story of his experience at the court of Dom Pedro during Mr. Cleveland's former administration, when he was minis- ter to Brazil. “Mrs. Jarvis s quite a diplomat,” he said, “though a little more sensitive about people mistaking my age than I am. Knowing this latter fact, it may be judged how hard was her tral in a littls court incident which occurred the day before we called at the palace to take official leave of the Brazilian government. Court etiquette requires that royalty sball never be contradicted under any circumstances. “On the day before I meant to take offi- clal leave of the emperor as minister of the United States Mrs. Jarvis and 1 drove up to the palace and requested the porteiro, as the doorkeeper is called, to ask the cam- avista, who is the royal chamberlain, to make an engagement with the emperor for the fol- lowing day av 12 o'clock. The porteiro had been gone but a few minutes when the old emperor came to the door himself and in- vited us in. “I said: ‘Your majesty that the porteiro has made a mistake; we requested him to see the camavista and make an engagement with your majesty for tomorrow at noon, when we will take fo fal leave of the Brazilian government. The emperor said that was all right, but in- ted that we should go and talk with him socially. We entered the palace and were soon engaged in answer.ng the emperor's questions, We talked sometimes in Portu- gueso and sometimes in French. The em- peror kept us o long while telling him of the United States. ““Another usage of court etiquette is that you can never leave the presence of a royal personage until he has indicated that your presence is no longer desired inally” the emperor asked Mrs. Jarvis: ‘What will your husband do when he returns to the United Statc ‘He will resume his pra tice of law,’ she replicd. ‘Impossible ;l.«id the emperor; ‘he is too old to practice aw.” “Mrs. Jarvis explained to the emperor that men of her husband’s age in the United States were only reaching the period of their greatest activity, and that comparatively few of them became distinguished at an earlier age. The emperor was then 70 years n%lll and, owing to bad health, looked much older. “'And how old s your husband? he asked Mrs. Jarvis. ‘He Is 52 years old, your majesty,’ she replied. ‘Fifty-two years old!" exclaimed the emperor. ‘Why, I am 70 years old,’” he sald, ‘and your husband looks at least ten years older than I do, doesn’t he “The question was addressed to Mrs. Jar- vis, and the court usage made her give the smiling reply, ‘Yes, your majesty.’ Knowing the sensitiveness of my wife on that subject I regarded it as a most severe test of her diplomacy.’* will understand Mrs. George J. Gould's pretty features, familiar to most New Yorkers, have never been prettier than this season in their fram- ing of yachting dress. A late picture shows the fine oval of her dark face, her gray eye: and long lashes and her very black hair surmounted most becomingly with a sailor hat. Mrs. Gould has entertained many d tinguished guests at the Dormers, her place at Cowes, and on board the Atalanta, and all chronicles agree that she has well upheld the world-wide reputation of American women for smart dressing. A favorite yachting dress has been one of red linen, over a loose blouse of black satin, embroidered with the Atal flag. Another handsome white linen costume (s made with a blue serge collar, with white braid and black sailor knot and walstband. Still another pretty costume worn is of mavy blue serge, trimmed with white cloth revers and embroidered with red and gold anchors. The skirt has the same trim- mings at the edge. The cap and vest are of blue and white stockinette. For dressier wear Mrs.Gould much affects Gainsborough yellows, which, in combination with black lace, or black ‘and gold braid, or velyet, are very ef- fective for her brunette style. The very newest hat decoration is simply a huge bail of feathers that is not a pompon, neither a flower nor a simulated double: rose, but it bears a resemblance to each Nothing just like it has been produed before. Besides being original and undoubtedly ef- fective as trimming the ornaments claim to be in a sense independent of the weather They would not likely stand a drenching rain_ unimpaired, but they would come out of that ordeal in a wearable condition, while rain would reduce tulle or chiffon to a pulp, ruin artificial flowers past redemption and render curled foathers useless until redressed. The feathers that compuse the mewer orna ments are, if not quill feathers, sheared down to suitable size and height, at least feathers that have plenty of substance, and the natural oil that protects them from the effect of rain is not removed by the process of dying. The colorings are lovely, and the thin edge of jet that just tips many of these big balls lends a new beauty. Some white feathers were so tipped, and the same kind of jet was applied to a loose yellow feather ball on the hat of a young tourist just home from a summer trip abroad. The wide brim hat alone accommodates these big puffs. Fashion Notes. Protty bright-colored rugs are now in order for September house decorating. Handsome lace curtains have plain centers and daintily designed borders. A beautiful bodice of black novelty moire is veiled and trimmed with corn-yellow chif- fon Black, wine-color, and golden brown v:lvets will be in great demand for fall and winter millinery. For novel fancy articles there are being s0ld beautiful wide Japanese silks in all de- sirabl: shades, at very low prices “Riviere" is a pretty novelty goods for au- tumn wear. It has a jacquard ground, with silk shot figures in crosswise effect. Handsome check effects for tailor-made suits are seen. Covert cloths and striped crose-rib weaves will also be popular. White woolen “sweaters’’ they say, with soft black silk sashes, will be the thing to wear for bicycle riding on cool autumnal mornings. A child’s reefer for early fall days is of tan .and brown and mixed cheviot, trimmed with handsome braid of & rich bronze shade, White aigrettes are combined with black feathers in trimming black straw hats. Jetted quills are in demand for late autumn garni- ture. Fancy vests and entire blouses are made of highly-finished satins in black and colors. Liberty satin s especially suitable for this purpose. A tomato-red silk welst is a pretty addl- tion to make to one's wardrobe at this se son. Diagonal bands of black guipure in- sertion make an effective trimming. White bengaline will be much used this winter for bridal gowns. All corded eftects will_be fashionable and heavy laces will be employed in trimming, Black and tan “Juliets” bid fair to retain their popularity for house wear during the fall and winter. They are certainly the most comfortable shoe for this purpose yet seen. Blaok and white striped ribbons are wmuch l used to make roseties and bows with up- standing ends, t being extensively em- ployed to trim turtfans and French loques. The miniature pin'is one of the things of the past that is ‘joothing up in the present. These pins are extremely beautiful, set sim- ply in dull gold or surrounded with tiny pearls. Striped taffetas in fich designs and service- able textures are retdiling at 50 and 60 cents, These silks makg hahdsome petticoats o be worn under the skirts of fall and winter gowns. Round walsts 'of hccordion-plaited chiffon are worn with #iTk bkirts and are trimmed with straps of fot ‘or satin ribbon. The sleeves are of chiffon or of silk to corre- spond with the skirt, Walstcoats, to be fastened down the front with tiny buttons, are to be fashionable this coming winter. Satif, watered silk, even vel- vet will be used in making these stylish dress accessories. Delicate evening fichus are of crinkled chiffon, edged with coque feathers. Corn yel- low, salmon pink, pale blue and magenta are some of the colors represented in these pretty novelties, A dressy at-home waist is of liiac ratin having a pinkish changeable effsot, The trimming consists of collar and belt of pink velvet and plastron and epaulets of butter-colored lace. Feminine Nof Mrs. Amelic Rives Chanler is planning a trip to the Holy land. “Don’t,”" says a shoemaker, “go early in the forenoon to have boots or shoes fitted. In the latter part of the day the feet are at tho maximum si Mrs. Humphrey Ward's son, Arnold, Is the clever son of A clever mother. He has just won a scholarship which gives him $300 a year during hs untversity career. Ona of Patti's trials is the mania persons soem to have that she should adopt their children, She declares that she receives hundreds of offers of bables for adopticn In tho course of a year. A new chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution has just been formed in Los Angeles, Cal., with the peculiar and Spanish—or is it Polish?—name, the h- scholtz The venerable Mrs, Jessie Ben- ton Fremont is the president. There is one advantage of being an “effete monarch of the old world"—a disagreeable fashion can be forbidden in one’s presence. The empress of Russia does not like the big sleeves so much worn and all the court women have to eschew them. Mile. de Lusan, who will del')ght New York music lovers this winter, has received her musical educaticn solely from her mother —a fact believed to be unique in the annals of the operatic stage, for Mme. de Lusan, though very gifted musically, is an ama- teur without stage experience. A er of Mile. de Lusan is Mrs. Thecdore P. Ralli of New York. A woman who thoroughly understands the workings of both sccieties—the Colonial Dames and the Daughters of the An Revolution—says_emphaticslly that there no antagonism_between them. They managed on different lines, that is all. The Dames try to keep their ranks very exclu- sive, while the Daughters equally welcome woman Wwith a just elaim to member- daughter of Bret amy Harte, 15 not on but is highly gifted as well—a combinaticn the gods do not always provide. She has marked artistic ability, end it is the opinion of competent critics that she can, if she chooses, make a:brilllant name for herself in the world ofillustration. She is de- scribed as having a seashell complexion, with blue eyes!set’ under straight black brows. The first course of lectures for the coming seison before the Woman's Law Class of the University ‘of the City of New York will begin Monddy, November 5, at 11 a. m. As Mrs. Leonard Weber, president of the Woman's Legal Educational soclety, will return from Itafy before the end of C ber, all inquiries {n relation to the cla and the society's matters should be dressed to Prof. S. F. Russell, 120 Broad- wey, New York: A curicus custom in Russia demands that n bride shall prepare a small trousscau for the groom's wear, and for the recent im- porial wedding at Peterhof the czar's diugh- ter duly regarded this national observance. With the exquisile and extensive trousseau prepared for the bride was some fine shirts and other articles of men's wear for the Gr:nd Duke Alexander, including a gor- geous lounging gown of cloth of silver that, from its description, must have been more splendid than comfortable, A New Jersey woman has patented a de- vice for an improvement in envelopes in answer to the recent invitation of the gov- ernment to submit ideas and designs for means to detect tampering with sealed let- ters. Ier invention is very simple, merely tho printiug of a small devics of any shape on the under side of the flap of the gummed envelope In a sensitive flud, fixed when dry, but which will run or spread on the application of steam or moisture, thus show- ing whether the seal has been meclested. Harte extreme Miss Jess- pretty, Oregon Kidney Tea cures backache. Trial size, 25 cents. All druggists, L CONNURIALITIES. The average girl doesn’t want a lover who is willing to die for her so much as sle wants one who is willing to work for her. The marriage of Miss Anmia Richmond Flatt, daughter of Mrs. Willizm 11, Platt of New York, to Justice Bdward T. Bartiatt of the New York court of appeals, wiil be cele brated in New York City next week. The engagement is announced of Miss Julla M. Kilpatrick, oldest daughter of the late General Judson Kiipatrick, ex-minister to Chili from the United States, to Licutcnant Willlam C. Rafferty of the I'rs. artillery, U. 8. A The engagement of Miss Anne Langdon, daughter of the late Eugene Langdon of N York and sister of Mrs. Royal Phelps Carre: to Mr. Howard Townsend of Albany is en- nounced. Miss Langdon fs co-heiress with Mrs. Carroll of the large property that came to iheir father from the estaie of Lis grand- father, the first John Jacob Astor. Lawton Sherman, who ied at Providence the other day, aged 99 years, und his wife, who survives him, werc the must remarizlie scuple, in respect of the ducatim of their iarital relations, probably, in the aunals o1 lhode 'sland. Mrs. Sherman 3 %% yoars (ld, and her health is rapidly failing. In 1891 the venerable couple celebrated their giamond wedding, keeping open houve all day. On August 7 the award of the famous flitch of bacon took place in the little hamlet of Dunmow, in Essex, England. Three mar- ried couples appeared before a jury of s maidens and six bachelors, in accordance with a bequest made b Robert Fitz Walter in 1244, to the effect hat whatever people will go to the priory, and, kneeling on two sharp pointed stones, will swear that they have not quarreled nor repented of their mar- riage within a year and a day after its c bration, shall recelve a flitch of bacon.” The flitch was claimed and awarded in 1445, 1467, 1510, 1701 and 176l In 1855 W. Harrison Ainsworth, the novélist, and some friends revived the custom and superintended the ceremonials. Writing in_the Forum concerning child marriage in India, Purushotam Rao Telang says: “The Brahmin has to get his daughter married before she attains puberty, This custom has crept into religion. The Hindu religlon strictly forbids single life for woman or man; especlally must the woman be mar- ried. Hence thera are no old maids In India, Sometimes one may, meet an old “cranky’ bachelor, who has temained unmarried be- cause he was 00 POOT to marry, or because his character was ngt good; but even these are seldom found except in the lower classes. If a man is not married at the latest by his 25th year, his reputation stffers. It is a be- liet that those who have a son go to heaven, when the son, after the death of his parents, performs the spiritual rites. However this may be, whether they go to heaven or not, this severe rule tends to a strict cultivation of home-life. Says M. W. Selby, Muncie, IN.: “Last summer a coal miner came to my drug store one night, half dead with cramps. There was no doctor to be had. He asked me If I had aoything that would help bhim. I opened a bottle of Chamberlain's Colic, Chol- era and Diarrhoea Remedy and gave him a large dose. In twenty minutes his pain was all gone. This man had been subject to cramps, but has not been troubled sinc Every family should keep this remedy at hand for use in such cases. It can always be depended upon. For salo by drugglsts. 'I’HEXRI’S PROUD HISTORY The Patriotio Memories Whioh Cluster About Baltimore's Famons Fort, IMMORTALIZED ITS DEED IN SONG Herole Defense of the City In the War of 1812-Origin of “The Star Spangled Banner”—Celebrating the Cen- tennial of the Fort. The eclebration of the centennial of Fort McHenry as a military post, which will oe- cur at Baltimore next Wednesday, will be a memorable patriotic event It is a day for inspiration for the entire nation as well as for the chief city of Maryland. The history of the fort fs one of the proudest chapters of American annals, and its de- fenso of Baltimore against the invading British inspired Franeis Scott Key to im- mortalize it in “The Star Spangled Dan- ne Whetstone point, the ground on which the fort stands, s formed by the two branches of tho Patapseco river. It was private property up to 1775, when the state of Maryland, appreciating its importance in the defense of Baltimore, acquired title to it. In 1776, after the declaration of independ- ence, a brick fort was erected upon this point, and was strengthened from time to time during the war of the revolution, but it was not the sceme of any conflict at that time, In 1793 there wers grave apprehensions of another struggle with Great Britain, and in 1794, just 100 years ago, it was for- mally turned over to the United States gov- ernment The fort was immediately en- larged and strengthened, and the portion of the present fort which was built at that timo is still standing, This fort was named after James McHenry of Maryland, who was Washington's tary of war. BAPTISM OF FIRE. 1t was built that it might protect the har- bor of Baltimore, and it was not built in vain, for it received its baptism of fire in the war of 181 On Saturday, Scptember 10, 1514, the cnemy appeared in' the Che: peake bay with ships numbering o consisting of friga bomb barges, and on the evening of that linde his troops at rth Point, twelve miles from the ecity of Baltimor to the number of about 7,000, The solliers were unde General Ro and the sailors under A ral Cockburn. They were met by the Maryland miltia, and, after a sharp skirmish, the British retired to their ship: On Tuesday morning, Septerber 13, the at- tack on Fort McHenry bogan, and listed twenty-four hours, Thinking at last that they had sllenced fort (the enemy ing beyond tha reach of the guns of fort, the gallant Majcr Armistead had re- served his fire), the enemy, toward cvening, screencd by the fire of their great guns, sent one nir two bomb vessels and a large number of barges manned wth 1,200 to 1, picked n.en to endeavor to s the for to procced up the Patapsco river so to assail the fort in the rear, and, perhap: effect a landing. The noise of their oars was distinctly heard, however, at the for and the signil was given to open fire, and the groans and cries of the wounded British were plainly heard on land. Forts M Henry and Covington, with the city battery the Lazaretta and the barges, vomited a devastating flame upon them, which lasted about an hour and sunk cr crippled nearly all of the attack'ng boats and drove them back to their fleet Having had this taste of what militia had prepared for them retired to a mere respectful distance, the darkness of the night end his ceasing to fire preventing b destruction. During the twenty-four hours fully 1,500 large bombs were thrown in and around the fort, the actual loss of Americans be- ing four killed and twenty wounded, while the British loss was 400 or 500, On the morning of Wednesday they sailed away, and tha immortal Francis Sestt Key, under surveillance of the British flag, saw by the “dawn’s early light”” that “our flag was still there. seer ves da. abou the Maryland the enemy KEY’'S FAMOUS POEM. The story of “The Star Spangled Banner'* has been told so many times and with so many variations that it is worth whila to reproduce here the latest version from the New York Times rancis Scott Key, the son of John Ross Key, who was a revolutionary officer, was born in ederick county, Maryland, in August, 1780, At the time of the breaking out of the war he was a lawyer, living in Georgetown, D. C. He witnessed the burn- ing of Washington. He was an aide-de- camp to Gene Smith and he had the duty of assigning the rogiments to their positions a&s they arrived on the fleld at Bladensburg. He was a young man of singular beauty of countenance, of the loftiest fdeals of patriotism, and of those qualities which risk anything and everything for the sake of country, honor or friend- ship. Tha British had captured Dr. Beanes, a physician at Upper Marlborough, and had conveyed him to one of their ships in the Patuxint. Dr. Beanes was one of Key's most intimate friends, and as soon as Key heard of the arrest he hurried, under th: protection of a flag of truce with the com- missioner, for the exchange of prisoners to secure his relea Key and the commis- sloner were received on board one of the ships and were promptly informed by the admiral that he would bo obliged to detain them over night. The reason, of course, was that the fleet was on its way to bom. bard Baltimore. Admiral Cockburn declared to Key that the'fight would be only a matter of a few hours, and then the dread suspense began. was utterly futile to expect the guns of Fort McHenry to do any damage to the British vessels, of which there wero nearly seventy. All day on the 12th and far into the night on the 13th the shells rained on Fort McHenry. The land ck under Ross was repulsad, thereby doubling the fleot’s responsibility. Under the cover of darkness the admiral sent sixteen British frigates within close range, but a little fort on-the opposite side of the channel used them up so thoroughly that they made a prompt retreat. THE INSPIRING SIGHT. During all these long hours of suspense Key could not tell whether or not the fort had been destroyed. He was two miles way from It and clouds of smoke were be- tween, but finally, when the bombardment had utterly failed, when in the cool of the morning the British ships began to drop down the river, and the smoke and the uds lifted, he' saw that the great banner ich Baltimore women had made was still flying’ proudly from its pole over the un- conquered fort, the capture of which the in- vaders had regarded as such an easy task. Key wrote the lings on the backs of en- velopes, with a barrel head for a desk When he reached the city he showed them to triends, and, according to local report, at their solicitation, made a fresh draft of them, A friend took them to the office of the American. All the editors and printers were still in the tremches, and the only one in the office was Samuel Sands, the printer's devil, who had also endeavored to go Into tho fight, but who was sent back because of his size. Mr. Sands lived to be over 90 yeurs of age and he often told the story of the manuscript. It was brought to the office by Captain Nicholson and was pub- lished anonymously. Apprentice Sands set it up in the usual style. It was printed as a handbill and it appeared im the American of September 21, 1814. The correspondent of th> Times saw It and carefully compared its text with the recently published draft in the handwriting of Francis Scott Key, and ako with the poem as it is generally printed. The following s the true full text, with title and introduction, as it first ap. peared in type: DEFENSE OF FORT M'HENRY. The annexed song was composed under the following circumstances: A gentleman had left Baltimore in a flag of truce for the pur- posp of getting released from the British fleet a friend of his, who had been captured at Marlborough. He went as far as the mouth of the Patuxent, and was not per- mitted to return, lest the intended attack on Baltimore should be disclosed. He was The range was a long one and it therefors brought up the bay to the mouth of the Patapsco, where the flng vessel was hept undor the guns of a frigate and ho was conmi- pelled to witness the bombardment of Kort McHenry, which tho admiral had boasted that he would carry in a few hours, and that the city must fall. He watched the fux at the fort through the whole day, with Ao anxiety that can Letter be folt than described, until the night prevented Lim feom seolng it. In tho night he watched the bomb shells and at early dawn his © wns ogaln greeted by the proudly waving flag of his country Tune—*'Anacreon in Heaven Ol say can you see by the dawn's early ight, What o proudly we halled at the twi- light's 1 gleaming, by stripes and bright through the perilous fight, O'er the ramparts we watch'd, wallantly streaming? And rockets' red glare, the sting in air, Gave proof through’ the night, that our flag was still there: O! say does that star- wive, ©'er the land of the free, and the home of the brave stars were 80 bombs jangled banner yet On the shore Aimly seen through the mists of the decp, Where the foe's dread reposes which haughty host in the half dis Now it catches the gleam of the morning's first beam, full glory reflected in stream. the star-spangled ot may it wave, O'er the land of the free and the home of the brav the breoze, o'er half conceals in now shins the banner, long And where is that band who so vauntingly swore That the havoc of war and the battle's confusion, A hom: & country should I more? Their blood has washed out their foul steps’ pollution could save ve us no the hireling and sl v From the terror of flight or the gloom of the grave, And the st doth wave O'er the land of the free and the home of the brave. spangled banner in triumph O! thus be it freemen shall stand 0 their lov'd homes snd the war's ever when and the land, that' hath preserved us a nation! Then conquer we must, when our cause it s just And this is Trust.” And the star-spangled banner in triumph shall wave O'er the land of the free and the home of the brave. ROMANCES WOVEN AROUND IT. Although the main facts of “The Star Spangled Banner” are so well known, it is many little romances have been 3 it. For instance, more than twent agd, in Harper's Monthly, was an article giving a circumstantial account of the setting of the song o music by two brothers named Durang some time during the month of October. The fact of the matter is, as shown by the copy in this ssue of the New York Times, the tune ‘Anacreon in Heaven' (which, by the way, was a somewhat questionable song) was given with the first publication of Mr. Key's verses, and he probably had it in mind when the words came to nim. Another story was that the first public recital of the song was In a restawrant, with a clog dancer for its Interpreter. The tested by the historical recor it was first song in the Daltimore theater in Octcber, 1814. The theater had been clised for soveral ks, and it was re- opened on October 12 with the drama enti- tled “The Point of Honor; or, A School for Soldiers,” and the comic opera, “The High- land Reel” On the second night the profits of the performance were appropri- ated to the fund for the public defense of the cily undar the direction of the commit- tes of safety. On Wednesday evening, Oc- tober 19, It was announced that after the play “Mr. Hardinge will sing a muoh ad- mired new song, written by & gentleman of Maryland in commemoration of the gal- lant defenss of Fort McHenry, called ‘The Star Spangled Banoer.' 1t was well received, but there is no record «of it again until the 12th of Novem- ber, when at a patriotic military and naval entertainment the following was mentioned as one of the altractions: “The new song written by a gentleman of Maryland, and second time sung here, ‘The Star Spangled Banner, by Mr. Hardinge, an entire new seeno representing the bombardment of Fort McHenry.” The statement Is often made that the song was sung nightly, but there is nothing to show that it wa & more than twice. A curious result of Its success was another song, written undoubtedly to super- da it in popular favor. m the lccil rec'rds it is found that on November 19, “After the play a new song written by a gentleman of Baltimore and callal “Free- dom, Home and Duty,” by Mr. Hardinge, was sung with great appla As the un- successful rival to what has since become America’s most famous lyric, this song is worth quoting for its historical interest. It is as follows: peace, may made and our motto: “In God is Our High o'er Patapsco's tide Swelled Albion's naval pride, Advancing on the gale; As fierce the embodled (rain Form'd_on the embattl'd plain, Yet not a cheek was pale. Our yeomen marched their Saw the proud And_thought of While many maldens’ K And many mothers' prayers aris That each might do his daty: And now the marshal'd train Rushed o'er the embattled plain, Amid the cannon's roar; The hostile fronts rebound, any strewed the ground Ere battle’s rage was o'er, Ah! many a gallant soul expired, Too well with patriotic feeling fived, r Freedom, Hope end Beuuty, Yet who for country fighting dies? Ever the blest mu For he has atriot dend, L dgne his duty. Peace to the Entombed in | In glorious The land that save suc Well mourns their parted vorth, And mourns them not in yain. For ne'er shall freedom’s hallow Die while there lives but yet the Of Country, Home and Be: And who for these are fighting slain In the next world shall mevt ngin For they have dume their Juty. Nor yet the struggle’s o'er, r than befors nu's #l Such desolnting shocks, As when the ntain's roc Are tumbling o he re-echoed with the freeman to the la Home and Tleauty, fantar roar ut that hore, Jduty, that the new The shores Firm st il dimmer Mark'd th' Wher The loca historians song, although sung twice, falled to arouse as much enthusiasm as “The Star Spangled Banner,” but that neither was sung again in the theater. Key is burled at Frederick, M., where an asscclation has ¢ ntly been organized to place a monument over his grave. There is a similar society in Baltimore, which holds annual celebrations and which has as its object the erection of a memorial shaft in that elty, Tho only monument to Key is the one erected at a cost of $60,000, the glft of the millionaire, Lick, in San Fran- cisco’s Golden park. THE FAMOUS FLAG. The flag that floated over Fort McHenry on that occcasion was 20 by 32 feet. It had fifteen stars and fifteen stripes, and It was wade by Mrs. Mary Pickersgill, who worked upon it night after night in order to get It ready and make it strong enough to resist British bullets. Tho flag is still in exis encoand It was exhibited during Baltimore sesqui-centennial several years ago. One of the spirits of that celebration—he has since dled—was Mr. Willlam Carter, an exce ingly encrgetic but very di inutive local personage. The spectacle of Mr. Carter, In an imposing equipike, wrapped In the folds of the enormous flag, was one of the unfor- gettable delights of that holiday occasion. The flag attracted 6o wwuch attention that it 1 now held by Its owners as enormously valuable, and f@s closely and zealously guarded. The history of Fort McH time bas mot been eventfu say y since that During the PSS | ofvil war It was used as a rendezvous and prison. any Daltimoreans were incarsers ated thers at differont thnes. Two mes were excented as confederate epies, hut (hab was about all the excitement the pluoe knaw. The fort covers forty #cres of ground, and I8 oquipad with Afteen-inci and teme inch guns, eight-fnch cofverted rifles, and eight and ten-Inch slege mortars, with the nddition of a plentiful supply of Gatling guns, MME, M. YALE WINNER OF THE World's Fair Medal and I iploma. CONQUERED MME, YALE'S Excelsior Hair Tonic, ITS MIGHTY RULER. For the first time in the his Gray Hair #s turned back to ortginal wout dye. Mme. Yale's Bxcel: sior Hair has the marvelous power of Riving e ral coloring matter circulation. cons gray hairs to theld own origin 1ot mastery of thig marvelous compound over the human hale has created i gonuine s fon all over the world, ind ity diecovery has boen hailed with endless Jov. There wil be no more gray hilr to worry aver mow, and no | iy to use in- Jurious artificinl it Vale's kil an chemist has never & I by man ol woman. She stands alon 1 Conqueror, The whole world bows down' th hor as a_ploneet seientist, Excelstor Hair Tonie will stop any halr from falling in 24 ho It is a guaranteed cure for ane aflment of the halr of disensc of the scalp. 1t is ubsolulely pure and free from 1t can be taken internally w v containg noths g Ereasy \tul, delicate T halr dressing 1 akd in keep n luxurient iral color After gray hal for with thi its us. hair the ory of the world its_natural and “The comyy hair in ¢ th and pr of your to its nat ary U as @ tonie, as the scalp its own color turned gray. FOR BALD HEADS L5 st ' ke bl M. 3 Brows O\ same as before it the genuine. I ations. “Make sur ale's photo on and | b s orlginal ¢ s, six for $5.00, Mme. ‘emple M. Ya of Teauaty auty, 6 DO VOU ENOW THAT ' GELNART WILL DEVELOP THE B UST W35S from 3 1o 5 inchent )y romove wrinkios. ) out hollol it, nock 1t gives new life o & perfect form. dorsed by tho foad oz PIFVE 1 CEARK wnd can b used with perfect SAFETY. My celebrate d ‘“ROYALE CREME" oF the Complaxion |aLhe mest wondertul props ity d uaranteed to m ¥ t Lo any addresa fo amps for pamohletan Perfection of Fez Mme. JOSEPHINE LE FEVRE, 1208 Chestnut Stroet, PILLADELPHIA, PAL Responaible business women waited 1o open oflicests allcitios. Name this paper. [lo egavings Ban GLOBE S. W. BUILDING &5 Cor. 16th and Dodge Sts, 4 PER CENT INTEREST PAID ON BAV. INGS DEPOSITS 4% PER CEN’ 3 TO 6 MONTHS, 5 PER CENT. ON TIME CERTIFICATES= ¢ MONTHS AND OVER. You are invited to come In and open an Ao count with us. Banking hours § to ¢ P. M daily. Open Saturday nights to recelve deposits only, 6 0 8 P. M. H. 0. DEVR CADET TAYLOR, Vice Pes. W. B. TAYLOR, Cushier. H. A. HANSEN, Ass't, Cashier GONSUMPTION SURELY CURED. Torix. Eprron—Please inform your read- ers that I bave o positive remedy for the above named disease. By its timely use thonsands of hopeloss cases have been per- manently cured. 1 shall be glad to send two bottles of my remedy froo to any of your readers who bave consumption if they will send me their expross and post office addresa. . A. Slocum, M.C., 183 Pearl 5t., New York. an. MCCGREW 1s the only ~ SPECIALIET WHO TREATSH Aias PRIVATE DISEASES and DEBILITIES of / MEN ONLY, Women Excluded. 18 years experionce Cirenlura free. [ 4th and Faroam Ste. Omana. Num. T Dr, E. C. West's Nerve and Brain Treatment ta old under positive written guarantoe, by suthor: 120 ngents only, W cure Weak Memory; Loss of Brain and Nerve Power; Lodt Manhood; Quickness; Lack of Confidonce 1s; Loss of Powe causod dve Uso ON TIME CERTIFICATES— President. 1 outhful Errors, un or Liquor, which soon lesd Siser s, Consumption, Tnsenity aud Death, By mail, bt ¢ for 8, with rilten guncantee o curs od refund saoney. WEST'S COUGHSYRUP. A certain eurs for Coughs, Colds, Asthma, Bronchitis, Croup, Whooying Coughy ore Throat:” ¥loaut o Small #i20 discoutimued; old " iy ] 11 tizo, now 00, G UARANTIES \ssudd ouly by Gootman Drug 0o, Ouwaba, ' fobucco, Op b