Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, August 5, 1894, Page 11

TRUMPET OF DAME GRUNDY Matronly Advice for the Benefit of the Newly Married Woman. KUBBY IS EASIER TO WIN THAN TO HOLD That's Why the Modern Novel Begins at the Altar—Birthplace of Lilllan Russell—Her Former 1 laymate an Omaha At- torney—Feminine Fancles. There are many ways of getting a hus- band and also many ways of keeping one. But In most cases the getting is much the easier part Novels of a century ago ended with the chime of the wedding bells, says a writer in the Philadelphia Times; novels of today usually begin there and their object seems to be to show how thoroughly uncomforta- ble, it not unhappy, the majority of married people are, Wives find that thefr husbands are but human after all. As lovers they belleved them perfect, and no amount of reasoning could make them see the faults which they #0 easily discover after marriage. In this talk we do not mean to speak of those who are unworthy the name of man, who know nothing of love; who, by nature and In- stinct, belong to the lower order of animals, but as we find them today, full of generous impulses, kind, noble-hearted, but faulty withal. A close observer will find that very early in married life differences arise, and neither 18 willing to yield the point. The result 1s that they drift apart In heart and are un- happy. Often relief Is sought at the divorce court. A wife's influence be stronger than anything else on earth. She can lead where she will and he will follow willingly though uneonsciously. She can bind her husband to her by ties so strong that death itself can- not break them, and if young wives only gave this more earnest thought there would be fewer unhappy homes. Make your home the h earth for your husband. there he can rest heart, Someone has said: A wife Is something to come home to.” I believe there are men who dread the hour for going home. Let him feel that there is a haven of rest after the day’'s labor. A man Is constantly among scenes that perplex and annoy; he sees the harder and rougher side of life, and the softening and refining influences must come from home. Always have the table neat and dainty. The linen may be coarse, but it can be clean. A man likes and enjoys such things unless he be a Diogenes. 1 knew a young wite who thought the Kitchen table good enough for her husband, but was proud to show her best china to friends. men can pplest place on Let him feel that soul and body. Why not give our own the best? It is sald that a man's heart is reached through his stomach. However this may be, it Is a well understood fact that it is difficult for either man or woman to cultivate the Christian graces on a poor diet. A man comes home tired and hungry. 1f he finds no meal ready, the children fretful, the wife cross and untldily dressed, is it any wonder that he secks more congenlal places? A little method in your work will obviate all these difficulties, as a rule, and we are not speaking of exceptions. We must not blame a man who Is dissatisfled when he has to get his own meals and his wife s :'bla to do it. We could never understand hy women, so delicate al home that the least exertion tired them, could travel and wisit for weeks and not feel any the worse for it. Don’t pose as an invalid unless you are obliged to. A sick room is not a delightful lace to spend one's life, and conversation at is confined to a recital of such fancies is apt td be uninteresting and one-sided. Let the food be nourishing and well oooked, and have as great a varlety as you can afford. Men with appetites for strong drink have been saved by proper cooking, and drunkards have been made by poor eooking. Don’t fill his ears with complaints about the ohildren and servants as soon as he enters the house. Use tact and common sense, and you will get all the sympathy and help you need in your grievances. Be as careful about your personal appear- ance as when you were receiving your lover. man wants to be proud of his wife. He oes not marry to get a household drudge. After twenty years of married life a wife 1d to me: “My husband is my ideal.” And he was no more of an angel than the majority of men. Through many years of adversity, misfortune and deep sorrow she has never wavered. Her husband has ever found in her a true helpmate, and her fidelity and love have Kept him true and loyal to her. But, after all, it Is love first, last and always that will bind your husband's heart to you. Love him with all your soul, and lot him know that you love him. “Born to Mr. and Mrs. Charles E. Leon- ard, at their home, on Fourth avenue, De- cember 4, 1861, a bright baby girl, welghing nine and one-half pounds. This, the first press notice the acknowl- dged queen of comic opera, Lillian Rus- sell, ever received, appeared on December 7, 1861, and was penned by her own father, n‘.: editor of the Clinton, Ia., Weekly Her- ald. That Lilllan Russell was born in an alley may grate harshly on the ears of her worshipful admirers, and she herself may be ashamed of it, but it Is true, neverthe- less. The house in Clinton, in which the interesting event occcurred, was situated in the rear of the office building of H. B. Hor- ton, located on Fourth avenue, hetween First and Second streets, and faced east on the alley running north and south between Third and Fourth avenues. At that time the house was situated almost in the cen- ter of the business district, across the street from the Towa Central hofel, then the larg- est hotel in Jowa, and one of the finest west of Chicago. The main portion was ‘“squatty,” scarcely a story and a half in height, and covered a ground space of 18x25 feet. The front door opened directly into the room used as a parlor. There were three other rooms on the ground floor, occupled as sit- ting room, bedroom and kitchen, and dining room combined. The main portion of the house has been moved and now constitutes an addition to the building occupied by a bottling com- pany; and the old walls, which were the first to hear the voice of the now great singer, resound with the hissing noise of machines used In bottling the effervescent pop. Shortly after Lillian's birth the Leonard family removed from the abode on the alley to 408 Seventh avenue, immediately In the rear of the Baptist church, and at that time one of the finest residences in the town. Here the remainder of their days in Clinton were spent. It was here as a little girl she was often engaged making mud ples with & youngster who has since risen to promi- nence as a leading member of the Omaha Dbar, and who often boasts of this early as- soclation. Lilllan foherited her beauty and her other good traits from her father, says the 8t. Lou's Post-Dispatch. Charles E. Leon- ard was a man of fine appearance and al- ways dressed in a faultless manner. Mrs. Leonard is remembered by Clinton as an awkward, heavy, ungainly woman, who took little care of her personal appearance. Her round, full face was thickly dotted with freckles and her head was covered with a growth of red hair of a bright hue, always kept closely cropped. She seldom looked neat or tidy. Mrs. Leonard was a McName, and her family lived In Buffalo, N. Y. About the marriage of Lilllan’s parents hung a mystery which was never solved so far as the Clinton public or even their nearest nelghbors were concerned. Yet, not- withstanding the wide difference between them, their residence of several years in Clinton was apparently happy, and It was not until several years later, after their re- moval to Ohicago, that the cloftis gathered which broke In & storm that ended In di- vorce. Before the divorce Lilllan, whose voice had been discovered to possess unusual quali- tiow, was educated 'n tha ~apvent ¢ 4h- Sacred Heart In Chicago, her general educa- tion being rounded off with & thorough course In vocal culture, She became a men- ber of a church chofr, angd in 1879 procured an engagement from E. L. Rice to play in “Pinafore.” Later she was engaged to sing ballads in Tony Pastor's theater, New York, gince which time her life and actlons are familiar to the newspaper reading publie. Up on the top floor the Havemeyer building is a curlous Institution, which is probably the only one of its kind in New York. It 14 a complete clectrical Kitchen, and It exemplifies very fully what electricity has done for the domestic hearth, says the New York World. This kitchen, however, Is not for commer- clal purposes. It represents an idea of an electric leating firm, which has started in to glve a series of “electric lunches” to elec- trical men. One of these was given the other day--the only person present who was not an electrician being a World reporter, Before he had left he had so thoroughly Imbibed the current of good fellowship that he caught himself talking of ohms and amperes with quite a technical leer. A curlous and interesting adjunct Is an old 4ea cook, divorced from his primitive uten- sils on board a salling vessel and placed in the midst of a scientific array of electrical pots and pans and current heated chafing dishes. But the most surprising thing about this cookery Is that the art of “knowing when and where' in cooking seems to be lost. Al that is necessary I8 to turn on the current and watch the clock. The cook says he has been a marine chef long enough to entitle his offspring to be called a son of a sea cook, but never has he ge:n an arrang ment which so sets a man's knowled, naught and allowr him to become a mere “pan shover.”” He also suggests that the perennial joke about the young wife's cook- Ing will lose its point it she us the cur- rent, There fs a grain of truth in the last re- mark, for everything Is so arranged that nothing Is left to the judgment of the cook A leg of lemb, for fnstance, s prepared and placed in the eclectrical oven and fs never looked at until the prescribed hour and ten minufes are up. The meat is not even “basted,” and two or three minutes difference in the time makes a difference In the quality of the cooking. The wires which distribute the heat are arranged on all sides of the oven, and, as a result, all sides of the meat are cooked evenly. . All the employes of the electrical heating firm eat their midday meal in this modern kitchen, which, although used to prepare daily meals for’ fourteen or more persons, is yet as cool as a seaside dining room, and this without any special system of ventilation. The electrical kitchen has proved a great success. The absence of danger from fire constitutes a reason which may cause the employment of the same system on ocean steamships, nearly all of which are fitted with electric plants. Not long ago Miss Emma Thursby, in the course of a conversation with a New York Times representative on other subjects, spoke of the matter of children taking up the study of music. She referred to seeing children at the musical congress in Chicago. They studied by numbers instead of notes, and, though they were very young, ranging in years from 6 up, and had been studying only a very short time, their proficiency was remarkable. Every note placed upon the board in front of them they would sing at sight. Miss Thursby thinks that music should be taught by simple, pleasant systems, as we learn the languages now, not by long dely- ing into grammars, but by easy conversa- tional methods. As her own personal opin- fon, she said: “I think children should be taught music as soon as they can do any- thing. My father was passionately fond of music, and I commenced to study when I was 6 years old. You cannot tell what child may have a special talent. They ought to sing as they read their books, learn sing- ing as they do speaking and their letters, There s nothing so beautiful as music; yes, I think It has a moral effect. When I meot my friends I say: ‘Why don't you have your children study music at once instead of Waiting? By the time they are able to think about it themselves they will be all over the difficulties.” Of course, a person cannot sing If he hasn't a voice; you can't make a voice, but I don't think I should have sung if I hadn't commenced early. The practice of teaching young chil- dren to sing is going to make more musi- cians. T think we are going to have a fine school of music in America. ~We have many young composers,"’” Aside from this artistic view, the teach- Ing of chilren to sing has a recognized hygienic value. Nuns are said to be freer from pulmonary troubles than many classes of society, and their habit of constant chanting and intoning is ascribed as one of the causes. It has been afirmed of the German race that its nontendency to con- sumptlon arises from its strong musical characterlstics. The exercise of singing is a splendid one to promote healthy lung ac- tion, and whether children show a talent for singing or not it is an excellent thing to have them taught how, and to see that they practice their knowledge. Gardening is destined to become a part of the general cducation of women. Its value In the kindergarten system cannot be overestimated. Already in several kinder- gartens flowering plants are kept in the schoolroom, and the children are taught to properly care for them. The result of this innovation, says a writer in Home and Coun- try, is sald to be highly satisfactory, since the work develops traits and talents not ac- aquired by other means. Not only for kindergarten teachers is a knowledge of gardening valuable, but also for instructors of the higher grades. Re- cently the thorough understanding and proper care of the human body has become a branch of education of the utmost im- portance. The serious and often fatal re- sults of fgnorance in this direction have been too openly manifest. So physiology has been coupled with elementary hygiene in our public schools. Just so, also, the plant culture is tined to become a part of botany, as it is now taught. Inasmuch as entomology may encourage cruelty unless carefully guided, 0 also botany may encourage ruthlessness unless coupled with careful training in the care of plants, That a woman with a knowledge of flower gardening, fruit culture, and kitchen gard- ening will make a more efficient wife for the farmer, surburban resident or country mechanic, needs no explanation. The influence of this branch of education upon the youth of both sexes Is very pow- erful. During the earlier days of life chil- dren are more receptive, and the inborn love of nature can be either stimulated so as to exert a_healthful influence over the -whole lite, or blunted and lost by neglect. des- A most remarkable meeting was held a few days ago in the parlors of a fashionable hotel in Memphis, says the New York Times. It was a gathering of a considerable body of the city's leading women, socially and philanthropically regarded, who had come In response to a call for the women in- terested in furthering the manufacturing in- terests of the city. It ended in the forming of a Woman's auxiliary, to supplement the work of the Young Men's Business league. Thelr motto is evidently to be loyal to Memphis in every way and devotion to her best Interests. They undertake to secure the Memphis trade for the Memphis manufacturer. Other things being equal, the Memphis buyer is to be urged to become a patron of the Memphis maker, Other means of conserving and augment- ing the best interests of the city are also to be employed, one that *“No Memphian shall ever speak a word of disparagement of the clty. Schemes for town improvement have al- ready been undertaken, and the spirit of sincerity with which the matter has been taken up is indicated in the presiding offi- cer's—Mrs. Willlam Randolph—address, who cautioned her listeners against the first enthusiasm, which sometimes dies out, and urged them to serious, persistent effort. It is significant that almost every woman present was a club woman, and that Mem- phis s one of the most flourishing of wo- men’s club centers in the south. This is right in line with the work of club women on overy side. They first organize, consolidate, and try their own abilities to acquire knowl- edge and Information. Then comes the de- sire to apply their new found strength in practical ways. Such is going to be the constantly increasing character and value of the work of women's clubs. If you have been badly sunburned, just as 500n as you can procure it apply (o the binad perts o thick coating of white vase- THE OMAHA DAILY BEE: SUNDAY, AUGUST 5 Iine, which let remain for ten minutes or more; then rub It off by applying a soft dry cloth gentiy; have a bowl of very hot water brought to you Uig linen towel, says the Cincinnati Commeré!al, Dip the towel In the water, which must be hot enough to steam, and aimost bury your face in it, but do not touch the skin .with it for some time; you should steam your face this way for fifteen minutes, and by that time every drop of blood in your body will seem to be in your face. Then call for more hot water and apply it in a soft, gentle fash- fon to the skin for fitteen minutes, Then put on a coating of vaseline and lie down for half an hour; when you get up you will be as fresh as a daisy and your face will not trouble you in the least. = Of course, the length of time for treatment will depend upon how badly you are burned But an hour ought to fix you up all right. Apply vaseline again on retiring. “Do not,” says the Delsarte exponent, “own one fnch of black, even in shoes; have shoes to match your gowns. Black reduces the size, but also reduces power and influ- ence, Appreciate the good points of being large. Mme. Blavatsky was one of the best dressed large women in the world. Instead of attracting attention to her outline and accentuating her size by showing how she could burst out of a tailor-made suit, she al- ways wore large, loose gowns, hanging from the shoulders, which, although she was mas- sive, gave her a form of pleasing, graceful lines, “When we were children,” remarked a delightful old lady, who carried her seventy years with aristocratic grace, “little girls Were always taught to carry a fan when they went into the drawing-room. ,‘Always carry your fan, my dear,’ was my mother's last in- junction when I went ont. ‘It will keep you from feeling awkward and looking consclous;” and I have often thought what an excellent fashion it was and what a pity it is that the importance of the fan has so greatly de- creased. In my day to manage a fan prop- erly was considered a distinct accomplish- ment. To unfurl it slowly and majestically as a Juno might; to flutter it vivaciously; to wave it languidly; to open and shut it medi- tatively—all this we were expected to learn by fnstinct and observation. “’With a fan you need never look Il at easc,’ was another of my mother's maxims, and 'we girls quickly found out the truth of this for ourselves, and I tell my granddaugh- ters that they lose a goodly weapon when they leave their fans at home, or consider them merely as an adjunct of their toflette in use merely to cool their heated faces. Mrs. Amelia Rives Chanler has a strong face, regular in features and with a chin of firmness. Her nose is a little inclined to b2 beaked, somewhat like her father's, Her complexion is healthy and indicates vitality. There is a patrician air about her tempered with gentleness. One forgets in her presence that she could write a book throbbing with human passions that at times reach a parox ysm of frenzy greater in intensity than any- thing Dante has ever written. In one less gifted it would have been considered puerila sentiment run mad. This handsome matron, still young, still in the prime of a glorious womanhood has all that wealth can give. But has she reached the zenith of her aspira- tions, or does she still dream that she will write a book which will create more com- ment and more criticism than the “Quick or the Dead?” No one can fathom that ques- tion by gazing at her handsome face. Her lite abroad and the homage that has been paid her have robbad her of the ingenuous girlhood ways which her friends knew and loved so well in her rural home. That is not saying she Is not sincere and not as friendly as ever. It means that she has had to meet society and learn its diplomatic po- liteness. A pack of cards and a box of gay glass beads should go into every mother's outing trunk. The elaborate and cumbersome home toys, the heavy books from the nursery shelf are burdens to take about, but the paste- boards and bits of glass take up practi- cally no room, and wiil be found invaluable resources on rainy days, or through hours when even outdoor country palls. If the children know some games of cards s0 much the better, but even small children delight in the bright pictures of the court cards, and by no means disdain the humbler spot ones. Besides games, cards make de- lightful houses. It will be very young children, however, who will not know from one to half a dozen games with the cards these days. Last week in the back parlor of an up- town house four little girls were found, on the entrance of the mother of one of them, seated around a table deep in a game of cards. Their ages were 11, 10, and two were 9 each. To the new comer's surprise it was discovered that the midgets were playing, in midsummer, too, whist. Their game was a fairly good one, and the main principles of Pole and Cavendish were carefully ob- served. To return to the beads, they can be found at any of the large toy stores or toy de- partments, packed in boxes of various prices, according to the size and quantity. Buy some bead needles to go with them, and con- sider that it is money invested for sure re- turns, At the World's fair last summer women took active part in all the congresses ex- cept six. One of these was Forestry, and it 1s being suggested that no such embargo need be laid on the sex at the next inter- national exhibition. As it is not necessary that every forester should hew down a tree, the knowing how to direct the process alone being requisite, the rest of the study of tree life and its development is wholly within the capability of any woman. In Philadel- phia it is planned to establish at least one class of women for this study as an ex- periment, and it is hoped that out of it may come a desire for a similar step in other places, looking eventually to the establish- ment of the profession of practical land- scape gardening for women. Few pursuits suit many of the sex's characteristics bet- ter than this, and the one or two positions of the sort held by women in England and other countries demonstrate their capability for them. Fashion Notes. Flower scissors in steel or silver are now included in a set of scissors. Boating costumes of cornflower blue serge are braided with fine lines of gold. The majority of this year's debutantes, of course, wear white, but pink in lovely tints is also greatly favored. One of the alriest caprices of fashion Is an enormous tulle cravat forming a large bow, tied directly under the chin, which looks like a big delusive butterfly, The latest fad of ribbon cravat is made of several yards of ribbon, quite narrow, which is used up In loops and two long ends nearly reaching to the feet. It Is very stylish, but sometimes rather inconvenient, All-black lace and chiffon capes are ele- gant. Black and white lace and chiffon in combination form recherche mantles, and cream-white accordion-pleated chiffon, with flounces of cream Venetian point above, com- pose the ideal cape of the summer. New collarettes are made of a circular plece of lace or chiffon. A hole is cut in the middle and a narrow ribbon Is run in, by which the material is shirred up to fit the throat, A frill of lace, set in very full, either gathered or plaited, has an insertion heading, with dafsy ribbon, “Confidence cushions” are what the big squatg pillows that stand in a corner near the fireplace are suitably called. They are of mobair, denim, or corduroy, and are brought Into service in the cosy lounging chats that only the hearthstone of an open fire can evolve. Foulard silks are still very fashionable, and they deserve thelr popularity. Simply made, they look no dressier than the lus- trous French sateens or dressed cambrics In flower, dot and striped deslgns, that are sulted to the earlier hours of the day, and can hardly be distinguished from foulard. Velvet has gone through quite a transfor- mation this year. It is to be had in crepe, lke the crepe associated with mourning. It Is covered with spots sunk into the fabric and also with spots In relief. It is shot, miroir velvet and strip:d and brocaded. There is hardly any end to the treatment of it. The delicate combinations of pleated chif- fon and lace, which are dignified by the name of ducliess of York capes, give but a faint suggestion of garments that are sup- posed to do duty against cool sea and moun- tain breezes, but every fashionable woman is supposed to possess one of these dainty “‘confections.” Among very fashionable people, particu- larly those who affect Eugliah fancies in dross, tiny velvet qu and capotes are conspleuonsly %opull it enite of midsum- mr wopther, byt tham Meaddresses are g0 {hfinitesimal as to size that they cannot by any possibiiity opprés¥ 'y the wearer with welght. PN English hairdressing, Jidging by very re- cent photographs of royal Women, I8 In very bad style. Braids and’ pifts are piled upon the buck and crown of (he head, and the front arranged In rof bpon row of dense flat rings, with one of two equally heavy ones brought to a pofnt very low on the forehead—almost between the eyebrows. Ribbon Is much used on evening gowns and long sash ends are, @ favorite trimming at the back, while at the front and sides ribbons, either singly, or {n loops, fall from the waist, and the erds ‘re fastened to the skirt with little bouquetd of flowers, Over- skirts of wide ribbon and’ insertion lace are very effective, and aré ukually finished with a ruche of ribbon. A costume of silk and figured muslin for a fete champetre is made of a soft silvery gray peau de sole, and the muslin of the same shade, the blouse waist belted in with a brick-red ribbon, and a skirt of the muslin falling over the silk in long coquilles; a fall of broad guipure from the shoulders, caught over the breast with a knot of the brick-red ribbon, and onme confining the collar, the bow being at the back of the neck. Many styles of irdressing are in vogue this summer. What is known as the “‘smart set” elect either for the parted tresses rip- pling at the sides of the head, and gathered into rather a low knot, or to have the hair parted on the left side, waved across the crown of the head, with a soft baby fringe in front falling over the forehead, and a Greek knot as an odd finish set exactly in the center of the head at the back. Queen Victoria will keep Irish poplin a fashionable fabric for seasons to come, for some months ago she ordered a number of gowns of this fabric for the trousseau of Princess Alix of Hesse. Dublin manufac- turers have supplied dress-length pattorns of the most beautiful description. Three are in white and gold, in the latter real metal threads sometimes forming the most of the device; in others, simply outlining the de- sign. A happy revival of an old fashion is the sash. It Is either black cr white soft satin, with the ends richly fringed. Some colors are used, but black and white are a neces- sity, as colored satins are apt to look vul- gar. There is a change in the arrange- ment of the sash; the former long loops are now short bows with the long ends fall- ing to the lower edge of the skirt. The sash gives such a thoroughly feminine and youthful finish to the costume that it is sure to be received with pleasure. Russet shades will continue in fashionable favor both for tailor dr and for_cos tumes for the mountain and seasides. Some of the French models are of russet and cream colored striped wool, with blouses of cream colored crepaline, edged on the box plaits with russet colored lace insertion. En suite with these dresses are sleeveless jack- ets of russet cloth, which turn back ‘with brown moire revers. They fasten under the chin with one button, but are o shaped that on a sudden blow they can be drawn well over the chest. There are worn this season at fashionable watering places some exceedingly pretty sheer India lawos in open work designs and of the soft tint of undyed linen. These materials are sk, striped variously in mauve, rose color, golden green, pale brown and black. They are made up over white lawn or silk the shade of the stripe, and trimmed with wide ecru emroideries, the accessories usually including a girdle, round- Ing Toreador jacket and very deep cufts made by covering the close portion from wrist to elbow with the embroidery. Serym having taken a fashionable y to its name, takes on, too, a somewhat more elaborato’ ppearance than in its former condition. ‘Tt is now very sheer and lace- like and altcgether open, and is again, and deservedly, a favorite at the cottage win- dow. Sheer dotted uslin§ in every size of dot_are effectively lihed with cheese cloth in pale artistic tints’ and are used as cur- tain drapery and as dressing table hangings and as bed valances. - A'Summer room fur- nished this way over Nile green cheese cloth is wonderfully ‘ool lcoking and rest- ful in appearance. Three cr four bewlitching hats have just made their appearance—one of white s.lk muslin, fine knife pleated apd arranged on a form so as to fit the head shorter in the back and more of a poke in front. Lying down upon it are two ostrich feathers caught together with a paste buckle. The little bonnet made of violets and forming a star in its outline on the head is very fetch- ing. The stems are caught together on the top with a large bow of ribbon of the lighter shades of the flower. A fold of vel- vet fastened on the side with a jeweled violet holds the little bonnet in place. Feminine Notes. A fact worthy of note is that in many German factories the female employes are forbidden to wear corsets during working hours. This s how the Empress Bugenic de- scribes herself: “Marle Eugenie, Countess de Plerrefond, widow; aged 67; born at Gran- ada, in Spain; naturalized French.” The recent munificent gift of Miss Mary Garrett to the medical school at Johns Hopkins, by the terms of the endowment, opens wide to* womankind the doors of this particular part of the university. Soap tablets are the latest form of com- pressed merchandise. They come packed in pretty boxes, each tablet about the size of a lozenge. Naturally, they are chiefly valu- able in traveling, but the slippery cake of the home dish may convenlently give way to these small doses. Queen Victoria Is in possession of a curious needle, It was made at the celebrated needle manufactory at Redditch, and represents the Trajan column in miniature. Scenes from the queen’s life are depicted on the needle so finely cut that they are only discernible through a microscope. The women who met Mme. Bogelot, the only woman French delegate at the Woman's congress in Chicago last swamer, witi ba in- terested in the added lustre her well known name has just receivad. In recognition of her devoted life services in behalf of female criminals she has been awarded the ribbon of the Legion of Honor. A dress album has a value beyond the mere caprice of its owner. It is a large blank book, into which is pasted two-inch squares of every new gown which the com- piler buys. The date of its first wearing is re- corded, and as its cost is usually added in a cipher, it offers a tabulated presentment of comparative egonomy which should be heeded. “I wish,” says a woman, whose former home was in Florida, “that T could find up north here the delicious ‘lady finger' banana of the Indian river. 1 have never seen one since 1 left the south, and to me it is the richest-flavored variety of the fruit. They may come to the wholesale down town warkets, but frequent inquiries at the up town fruit stands have never met with success.' The young women mermbers of a fashion- able bieycle club of Cincinnati have added archery to the pleasures of a run on the wheel.” They ride to 4 target meet, spend a couple of hours at the graceful sport, and whirl home again on the steel circles, Al- ready the skill with the arrow has stood at least one of them in good stead, Who, bothered by a vicious dog as she rode along, promptly dismounted, fitted an_ arrow, and sent it whizzing against the belligerent dog, What to do with one’s hands has been con- sidered a sort of test of ease of manner, but foot etiquette is nowadays a distinctly recognized toplc of the physical culturist's curriculum. Crossed feet are not only inele- gant, but weaken the ankles; tip-tilted feet are indiscreet, and toes or heels twisted upon chalr rungs are mot to be tolerated. Straight on the ground, well beneath the shadow of the skirt, and in an easy natural position is the puse for feet that are not in walking use. A young Japanese gentleman, who came to this country to be educated, has yielded to the charms of an American girl, and will give up his country for his bride. He does not, however, yleld his fondness for Japanese ways and things, and he s fitting up their home in Salem, Mass., in true Japanese fashion. He has imported tiles, wall papers, draperies, screens, and the like, direct from the island empire. The servanis are moon- eyed Orlentals, and the menage s to be con- ducted after Japanese methods of house- keeping. - The great cloudburst on Black Fork Green River carried away 60,000 tles were boomed near Granger. These are near that now that i e [1 DIAY LAND ALLOTMENTS Trouble Between Whites and Indians Over the Old "Omaha Reserve,” BAD SNARL FOR HOKE TO DISENTANGLE Like White Landlords Lo Knows How to Draw Rents bat 18 Unable to Pay Taxes—Factions Among the Omahas. PENDER, the Editor of The Bee: Race problems never cease in the United § Measures pending in the courts and in congress regarding the allot- ment of lands among the Omaha and Winne- bago Indians are attracting attention. The original “Omaha Reserve' about thirty miles across, north and south, and nearly forty miles from the Missouri river west, depending on the windings of the river, containing about 300,000 acres. The eastern portion is rough, has considerable natural timber and on account of this shelter was the portion early selected by the tribe for their principal village and their resi- dence. The western portion lies in the Logan valley and contains some of the finest grazing or agricultural lands in the state. In the '70s a strip ten miles wide was cut off from the north end and sold to the Winnebagos, who were brought here from Wisconsin, and the two tribes were in time placed under agent, The too, lived mainly in the eastern end of their reserve, in the rougher part. The wagon road across the reserves from Decatur to Dakota runs through this rough section, and as a matter of fact few people knew cr realized that the west end of tie reservation contained many acres of the finest land in Nebraska, much of it level as a floor and rich in verdure. As long as farming land was no object to the Indians and they expected to live forever on their regular annuities little was heard about this end of the re- serve. When the Chicago, St. Paul, Minne- apolis and Omaha railroad was built through this portion of the state these Indian lands put on a new face. The ‘“reserve” was no more a rough tract of land on the Missouri river that nobody wanted. The white man could not ride through that valley of waviug greens and not covet those splendid acres, apparently going to waste. The Ind ! philanthropists from the east came on anl saw that the land was fair to look upon and they began to plan for the Indians® good, you know, so that about ten ye since a large portion of both reserves was “allotted” or divided up Into quarter sec- tions and less, so that the Indians could each occupy his own individual home if he chose. The Bee gave the method of allot- ment In a recent issue. A portion was left in common or “tribal land” for future dis- position. The Indian did not “occupy” very readily, at least not on the Logan; he stuck close to the timber, and still the grass grew and waved and not a hoof to eat it up legiti- mately. As a matter of fact their neighbors pastured on the red man's land and this led to a result. During this time two very important bills were passed relating to these matlers; one by congress, making the Indians citizens, or trying to, with the right to vote, go where they please off the reservation and enlarging their liberty generally. The land west of the raliroad track was sold to the whites and became the nucleus of Thurston county. Prior to this the ‘reserves’ had been attached to Burt county on the south and Dakota county on the mnorth, ‘“for judicial, elective and revenue purposes.” In 1889, by state law, this strip west of the Chicago, St. Paul, Minneapolis & Omaha track and the two reserves were organized into one county, called Thurston, with Pender as the county seat. Of course there was kicking by Burt, Cuming and Dakotu counties, which had each hoped some day to attach a portion. of the reservation to themselves, enlarge their boundaries and get some of that free grass for keeps, but the name given the county, the growing searcity of land and the immediate neces- sity of having a new county right then and there carried the day and Thurston county became a fixed fact in the polity of Ne- braska. And now comes the music for Pender and other towns on the border. Thurston county grew and flourished, but if you look at the map you will observe that the strip west of the railroad track is very narrow, and could not contain many peopie at best, and those who did not seitle there soon found out they were paying all the taxes for the great big county of Thurston, for the Indian woudn't tax worth a cent. He never had been taxed, and he never meant to be, if he could help it. He could shift his ponics round, and slide out of a personal tax as sleck as a white man, and with more just- ness, for the white man lies on purpose, while the Indian really thought he ought not to pay this tax. The title to the real estate was yet in the government, o that could not be taxed, and the whole burden of public affairs in Thurston county fell on the few whites who had something to tax. This was the origin of the “tax-bill" now before congress. It asks the general govern- ment to pay this tax, because the Indians can't or won't. It was like this: Some years ago a party of four went down to the state penitentiary on a visit of inspection, and one of them bet with a prisoner called *“Pony” that he had the smaller foot of the two. They left it to Casper Yost to decide. He said that the prisoner undoubtedly had the smaller foot, but the bet was against the outsider, because he had the money and could get out to buy the beer, and the prisonsr rot. The government had the money—was foot loose and could pay—and the Indian had not. THE OMAHA “ALLOTMENT was made at Washington, on paper, but was never enforced, the land lay idle, and the border whites used the pasturage when they could—free. Free grass, like frec coinage, makes trouble. When the allotment scheme was invented it is presumed the government intended that the Indians should live on their “'severalties,” and under a wise and honest agent—if such an one was over found —be taught practically to farm and raise their own crops, 50 as the sooner to become citizens, in more than the name, and the more speedily take care of themselves, in- dependent of government aid This was not done at once, especially in the western end, consequently settlers used the grass, or made arrangements with mem- bers of the tribe for cattle to run there. This was too good a thing for somebody, and Mr. Farley, a white man, who had mar- ried into the Omahas, and Mr. Tibbles, who had married Farley's wife's sister, for the g00d of the Indians, no doubt, argued that as the whites were getting pastu e free, or at a nominal rental, the trib: had better lease Mr. Farley what was left of the tribal lands, or unused alloted lands, and thus derive a fixed and sure rental for the same. This was in 1890, and Mr. Farley, for himselt and others, leas:d about 25,000 acres at the nominal rental of 25 cents per gere until an allotment was made in fact. Henry Fontenelle and others state that but five chiefs signed thess leases of tribal lands (the council should consist of twelve) and as they understood, were signed from year to year until further dis- position was made officially of the land at 25 cents per acre per year. The lessees ot up—it 18 so sald—that the leases are for five years at 26 cents for the five years, which 18 considered too low entirely and Is one source of trouble inside the tribe. The white settlers want the allotment carried out sa the land will be lived on, or can be leased in smaller tracts and improved, as other lands in the county is, and they have some rights in the matter, for as this land has been made part of Thurston county (whether judiclously, In the first place, or not, It 18 & fact now), and the Indian citizens thereof, they all ought to have something to say In the settlement, whites and reds allke. On this ground they have petitioned to have the allotment carried out time and again, and it has been promised them, but by some occult Influence at Washington It is always put off until a more convenient season. They openly charge that Miss Fletcher ex- erts part of this lnfluence through her con- Aug. 1.—To ates. one nection with the La Flesche interest fn the tribe and by reason of her long standing in the departments, whers she has posed as an authority on what Is best for Indians, This 18 the Omaha At the Winnebago agency an Illinols com- pany (the Flournoy company) came In at the samoe time and leased for five years, on about the same terms, as has beon told fn The Bee. The only differ- ence 18 that they have broken up the land in_quarter sections and again sublet it to white farmers, This suite the citizen ele- ment better, Trying, as directed, to simply get at facts, your correspondent, with- out taking sides, has given a summary of talks and views from different parties, and here it is charged by one or the other that Captain Beck, the agent, is trying to break up the Flournoy company's leases, that a cer- tain O'Connor_Ashford, the trader, and his son _may b» benefited, while on the other hand he favors Farley and Tibbles In re- taining their hold on the grass and ound of the Omahas. Officials have been sent out here from Washington to investigate, but the Pender people claim that Agent Beek hates Pender for interfering in any way on th reserve, and the inspectors are taken to the agency, treated well, wined and dined, as we would say, and never make a true report of facts, but only as they are allowed to see them. It would seem that the govern- ment should carry out the original plan to settle the Indians, by allotment, abrogate all leases, or if that fs not feasible, see tha the tribes receive the greatest benefit possi- ble from the lease of their lands, and the whites Justice in sharing the expenses of thelr common country As it is they cannot make roads or bridges on the reserve without the white portion pays for it all. The Blackbird is not bridged today on the main road north, and is a horrible place to cross, because the com- missioners won't build one, and the agent, or Indians, say they cannot. The Indians, as voters, can help saddle expenses on the county, elect officers and regulate one end of the county while that end is linproving over the other. “Hi" Chast, a_half-breed Oma is county judge now. Aside from these 25,000-acre leases the whites claim just gricvances arising from the mongrel laws that made them a cdunty.. For many years there have been two divi- slons in the Omaha tribe, the Fontenelle wing and the La Flesche wing. Lucien Fontenelle was a New Orleans Frenchman of good family, able to trace his lin rectly to the nobiiity of France. He wa member of the American Fur company when it was at the height of its glory. He started the trading post at Bellevu Neb.,, which afterward became 80w known under Peter Sar He was married to an Omaha squaw by Father de Smet. He had four sons and one daughter, all born in the tribe but educated elsewhere to the best ad- One of them, Logan, was the last clected great chief of the tribe. 014 Black- bird” was the last great hereditary chicf; after him the tribe clected for some y Logan killed by the Sioux in These , who expected In turn to share some of Logan's glory and honors, are all dead but Henry. La Flesche was a Punkah half-breed, who married into the Omahas, and by securing Mary, Nekoma's daughter, he placed him- olf at once in a position to antagonize the Fontenelles. As has been said, he was shrewd, secret, long-headed. He got him- self elected chief of one band, had his own village and exercised great power during his life. The Fontenelles were wild fellows at times and lost their Influence to some extent at different periods. This did not tend to increased good will between the rival powers, The Omaha agency buildings have been practically abandoned of late years, and the residence of the agent and offices removed to the Winnebago headquarters. So all the late comers on the reserve from Washington 0 there, find the La Flesche family nearest and have got all their story of the history of the tribe instead of the Fontenelles, or both. Miss Fletcher, Rey. Mr. Dorsey, all of them, tell the La Flesche side of things. But there is another side, and of course Henry Fonte- nelle, who is very sensible in the matter, does ‘mot like this leasing of lands to men who merely married into the tribe to secure this property; or to outsiders, who have no real love for the Omaha. As he says, “We are in a transition state just now; we are neither whites nor Indians; we shall just have to wait as patiently as we can till mat- ters are adjusted to the new order of things. It's hard sometimes, but can't be helped at once.” Henry is in favor of the tax bill and the allotment, and just as much liberty and improvement as the individual Indian will bear and can use to advantage. It's a pretty tangled situation, and our friend, Hoke Smith, will have to use patience, persever- ence and good judgment to unravel it all satisfactorily to whites and Indians, without doing more Injury to one or the other than has already been done by unwise moves on both sides. There s much difference of opinion whether, on the whole, an army ofiicer " is the best agent for them or not. Once an army officer would have been the thing, and his influence and discipline for good, but after a series of years of civilians, and their different systems, the rather harsh rule of an old line captain is unpopular. For wild, undisciplined tribes, wholly under govern- ment charge, the officer works in well, but over these half-civilized, half-citizened tribes, almost white, the good-natured and easler tempered politician agent gets along with less friction. ’ JOHN A. MacMURPHY. e THE CRUCIAL MOMENT. Somerville Journal, the hammock's net So graceful and so fair. arms above her head wer Lovely beyond compare. He sat beside her for a while, Enchanted by her grace, Till finally a blush and smile He saw upon her face Within she swung, Her flung, heard her softly looking all about Tom, turn your h oing ' o get out CONNUBIALITIES, then he say, First “Now, pled T'm And 1d away, Josephine Valentino, an Ttalian girl of Newark, N. J., sacrificed an_inheritance of $100.000' the other day by marrying the man Whom her father, a banker, wanted to veto, and who bears the somewhat remarkable name of Cannino Amore. Minnie—Here is a story about a girl who refused to marry a man because his com- Dlexion didn’t match her hair. Mamie— Goodne The silly thing must have thought that married people had to be to- gother most of the time, A Milwaukee woman wanted a divorce from her husband but could not afford to pay for such a luxury. In this dilemma She confided In her mate—or mismate—and he, in order to accommodate her, promptly committed suicide, "he engagement of the handsome young Khedive of Egypt to Brmine, youngest daugh- ter of the lite Sultan Abdul Aziz and a Turkish beauty of 10, calls for congratula- tions. This Is a love mateh with great in- cldontal advantages from a diplomatic stand- point and by way of contributing further to the felicity of tre arrangement the marri 1s strongly favored by the khedive's mother. A young couple were married by a jus- tico of the peace in Jersey City the other day. At the conclusion of the ceremony the bridegrcom, either through a sudden at- tack of nervousness or in a moment of for- gettuiness, brought about by supreme hap- Diness, omitted to>Kiss the bride. At the Wedding breakfast she sulked, positively re- fused to go to the home which her husband had prepired for her, and has since re- jooted all offers of reconciliation. John Beatty, grocer's clerk of Elizabeth, N. 3., loved Annle Sloan, the pretty niec of his employer. Annie Sloan loved John Beatty. Uncle was willing, the wedding dress’ was made by the bride's own fair hands and everybody in Elizabeth agreed that no prettier wedding dress ever adorned a more beautiful bride, The wedding night was met, the guests Invited, the preacher engaged, The hour of § o'clock came, but the bridegroom, who had gone home (o get nis supper and don his wedding suit, came not. A meesenger dispatched to th home of the absent John returned with the news that Jolm was securely locked In one roo and his wedding trousers in ancther, while bis mother, with both keys in her pocket was declaring that Johnny wouldn't get married until he had secured her consen which b had forgotten to ask The wed- night Rock Springs 18 to have & new dally paper in. the near future, drops of water— Vista Water a mighty ocean of Vista Water Make Little grains of mineral in Vista Water Make a body healthy, does Vista Water Doctors preseribo it Everybody drhiks it. Deliverad at your house Frosh every day, Telophone 1300, VISTA MINERAL SPRINGS €O, 812 8, 12(h 8t., Omaha. ered Dally. MME. M. YALE'S Wonderful Complexion Remedies Awarded Highest Honors at the World’s Fair. CKLA nteed to cure any ense of freckles In exe Price, $1.00 per botile 101’ COMPL BLEACH nteed to remove all skin blemishes. Prics £2.00 per bottle. GREAT SCOTT! The only pernanent cove for superfiuous hair on record. 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