Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, June 10, 1894, Page 11

Bevival of Bandeaus to Adora the Faces of the Delles of '04. FHE FASCINATING BEAU CATCHER DOOMED Khe New Style Wili 3o Severo and Trylng to Many Facos, but the Edict Has Gone Forth—Kulckerhockers for Women Cyclers—Fashions of the Day. The time has come for laying aside the urling tongs and bidding a long fares #o the waving pins. Curl papers will no Ponger make night hideous, and damp days Will no longer be dreaded by womankind, For hair is henceforth—for a whi 80 be worn with a straightness and a flatue Rhat may the price of bandoline to mount upward, for has not the fashion editor of the New York World from the top of its tower proclafined the fact that the bandeau has return To know what the bandeau fs it is ne sary only to find a daguerrcotype of mother, taken when blooming N Howeyer tnmed and faded ho portrait may be, the band will be plain. The hair will be parted i matical exactness in the ¢ be no suspicion of wave or curl to it, but sven In the old-fashioned pleture it will seem to shine as the result of many patient brush- Ings and to lie flat upon the forehead with » flatness that a cyclone could not disturb, The bandean Is brought down from the middle of the brow, so that it touches the puter corner of the cyebrow, hides most of the forehead, a portion of the cheek and all ¥ the lower tip of the ear. It must be trained to cling to the face with a closeness that no rude wind «r alier force can disturb, for a bandeau In a rufled condition is, of all hope- Jessly incongruous affairs, the worst. In the olden days It was the custom of the bandeaued belles to gather their locks, pfter they had been carefully brought to th back of the head, In a big w which they gonfined in a net. This chignon Is a featur M the old style which is providentially omit- ted from the revival. The belle of ‘94 will ather her locks Into a knot wherever it ‘most becoming to her—on the top of her Bead, at the back or at the nape of her neck. The fashion s already well under way in Paris. The Paris illustrated weeklies are showing beautiful young women and plain young women, not to mention middle-aged and old women, all going about with their hair neatly plastered down in bandeau. There are certain styles of countenance which can stand this severe fashion, just s there are some women who are duchess- like In gingham wrappers. A pale, clear complexion, dark hair and cameolike features make a face admirably adapted to the ban- feau. A rosy complexion, a saucy, insig pant nose and ungovernable locks of brown or yellow are a combination to which the bandeau would prove extremely trying. As for all the victims of plainness, homeline ugliness, fatness, scrawniness and the rest the imagination hesitates to think what they will all resemble when the bandeau hes really arrived. It is sald that in France and England the fominine portion of the population has given tself up body and soul to cycling, and it egins to look as though the American women were not to be outdone in enthusiasm for it. At first American cycling women put on mny old clothes they happened to haye when ey went out for a turn, thinking the only mneaslllefl were that they should have on omething that wouldn't be spoiled and that 515 loose and comfortable, says the New Noric Sun. But now that they have awak- ened {o the fact that something more is 'fieadei the perfect costume bhas been evolved. - , The keynote is knickerbockers, and as fany harmonies may be sounded as indi- ¥ taste may Suggest. hé of the most thoroughly sensible and eomfortable, as well as prettiest, suits has boen designed by an artist and a woman em- ployed by one of the large dry goods houses, pnd jt has been adopted as their especlal yeling costime. It conslsts of knicker- ckers just below the knee, over which is skirt 4 trifi shorter. This skirt fs gored nd has a full box-plaited back. It fastens §n the seam of the front gore g9 ;p?( %I pul ening is visible. So that it may no rt from the belt it is fastened to it by oans of little tabs underneath. As most omen feel uncomfortable about appearing In trousérs, especlally in the city, this skirt quite an’ advantage. Then it may be dis- rded gt will, using only the knicker- 04 i ‘ifi: Jacket is short, i;qdlng in a belt that 'Gn Jas ‘under the narrow réers and fastens with a buckle in front. Any kind of a shirt or blouge can be worn with this. The silk ‘ones are pretty, but flannel is the most nsible material to make them of, as it absorbs the perspiration, leaving one less sensitive to the air when the exertion of mo- tion 1s over. Tho slecves of the jacket come ust below the elbow, so that the arm is as as possible. Long gloves are, of course, & necessity. Long cloth leggings to match the suit come up to meet the knickerbockers. When the weather is too warm for these, 'low #hoes are the best things to wear, as with boots the muscles of the instep do not have free play, and often become uncomfortable 1t long rides are taken. Another costume has a long, tight-fitting double-breasted coat, the skirt of which s full and comes down to the knees. This style will hardly become popnlar, however, s a corset should be worn to make such a garment fit_ well, and this Is not advisable. The clothes' should be loose'and comfortable, g0 that Inspiration may ba deep and full. This Is the only way to’guard against fatiguo. After the first struggle of venturing forth in bloomers Is over, many women prefer to do.without even the short skirt. And really the difference in appearance Is very slight. The bloomers can be made so full that at a short distance it Is impos=ie to tell them from a skirt. A short Eton jacket Is very Jaunty, worn over a pretty waist, and a coat coming very full just over the hips seems favorite style. These suits can be made in any material, but storm serge, cheviot and flannel are the most serviceable. Soft hats and caps of every description are brought into play, but a sallor hat has an ad- vantage in shading the eyes. Pretty and graceful as the women in knickerbockers look when they are astride their bicycles, it must be confessed that they are apt to startle all beholders when they parade around in the new dress apart from their machines. The feminine generosity of hips added to the general display of tho full figure is very pronounced, especlally it the knickerbockers are of the bolder pat- tern that ends at the knees. It is sald that this is going to be a “white summer,” precisely as black, touched up with a color, has been the favorite dress of the winter. With this in view, a Parls hat- ter has provided delightful sailor hats of white duck for the girls who are —going in for gowns of duck for yachting and the seaside generally. The snowy duck, says Harper's Bazar, is stretched smoothly over rice straw hats of the purest whiteness and most perfect shape, the straw showing only on the inside of the brim. The trimming may be simply a band of thickly repped rib- bon with a bow on the left side clinging to the crown. But If left to the milliner a further trimming Is added, as a twist around the crown of dark blue and white silk, striped or plaided, with a great rosette of the same on the left, from which springs a group of snowballs on long stems that move with every motion of the wearer. A half- Anch binding of thickly repped ribbon of a pavy blue shade ~around the brim, Another duck hat of purest white has a band of butter-colored guipure insertion around the crown, with chaux of white satin i front, and on the left a cluster of purplish-blue irls blossoming on long stems strotching high in the alr amid their thick green leaves. “There is one thing," announced Pris- ellla, glving her hat a vicious jab with her bat-pin and tossing it on the table, “that disgusts me terribly.” “What is it this time?" inquired Nancy, Nho has heard that expression In regard to at least a score of Priscilla’s pet aversions, and whose conversation was belng taken by & New York World reporter “It's the fact that I have never yet heard & woman engaged In doing good to her own #ex who did not maintain and proclala that a girl who works muat in_frigidity and fairly picion, If she would eseape inault been up te the Salvation Army's new rescue home, and Mrs. B, ngtun Dooth was tellling how girls who ure to go out as canvassers, who are typewriters and stenographers have to wage continual warf: to preserve thelr honor. 1t disgusts me, I tell you." “Don't you belleve i7" asked breaking off a thread. . Oh, 1 believe in Mra, Booth and il the other scuers, of course In fact, one al- most belicves she is stating unfverral truth when speaks, she fs lovely, and has such a sympathetic, oar mpilsive way. But forgets that hears only the stories of the few women who have hud to fight, and never thoso of the 1y who have et with cour y 1 cons deration at every point. 1 suppose It's natural for women whe are stantly arin stories to th of the unly with roaring lion f inen seeking whom they nay embling 1itt] lambs of know it {sn't o, buc the cther kind of girl “I'I tell you what I think,” grac volunteered Nancy I think that a woman who is ex ting (nsult will get it as surely as she lives It isn't nec ary to invite 1t It quite enough to g about looking for the ravening wolves But a girl who is so sure of herself that it never curs to b to place herself in the position of a devourable lamb will find few wolves If every girl who goes Into an office only felt, as mest of them do, thank hesven! that she and dishonor are as widely separated as the north s from the south, that view of herself would impress itself upon the men she mee Besides, Pris, it's my solemn opinion that a business man Is generally wmich occupled with h's own afr to begin even a flirtation with his tyy ior or the girl who wants to sell him copies of General Grant's life. t what I think,” agreed “N women of all the ones I has ever been rudely treated in any ness transactions has had with Not one of them ever expected to that's secret of it all A man's tremely apt to take a woman's own ation of herself, 1 g0 about *panoplied bristling with sus- Nancy, she she dey women usly Priscilla. know busi- men be,and ox- valu- after all, The shops are filled with so-called duck suits, costing from a few dollars upwards, some with little linen in them, others very fine, pointille or brocaded with’ silk, all cut after one plan, with a jacket and skirt to wear with a vest or shirt-waist. Of course tailors delight in making these jackets and coats, as such garments are their specialty, says Harper's Bazar; yet at Redfern's one sees the simplest gowns of white linen duck, not unlike fine glossy shecting, marked and made with a plafn belted walst and skirt trimmed with the genuine navy-blue dungarce worn by the British navy. They are without lining, and are cool to the touch in the sultriest hour. The linen waist slopes in a V from the shoulders to be gathered front and back to a wide belt of blue dungaree striped with white braid. The V space is filled in with a shield of the blue twilled cotton striped with cross rows of white braid, and there is a broad sailor collar of the deep blue bordered with rows of white braid. The sleeve, all in one picce, of white linen, s very wide at the top, and stitched below the elbows in length-wise tucks to make it fit closely in a biue dun- garee cuff trimmed with rows of white linen braid. The skirt, nearly four yards wide, is gathered to white silk belting, and fs trimmed at the foot witn a four-inch band of the dark dungaree with three or four rows of dark blue braid above it. The real old maid is like any other woman. She has faults necessarily, though not those commonly conceived of. She is often plump, pretty, amiable, interesting, intellectual, cul- tured, warm-hearted, benevolent and has ardent friends of both sexes. These con- stantly wonder why she has not married, for they fecl that she must have had many opportunities. Some of them may know why; she may have made them her confl- dantes. She usually has a sentimental, ro- mantie, frequently a sad and pathetic past, of which she does not speak, unless in the sacredness of Intimacy, says the Ladles’ Home Journal. She is not dissatisfied, quer- ulous nor envious. On the contrary, sheé Is, for the most part, singylarly content, patient and serene—more so than many wives who have household dyties and domestic cares to tire and. trouble them. 3 As is often thought, she should have been married, judging from externals in a cursory way. But who can tell? Only she is capa- ble of determining, and she has already de- termined. It is dn jm, nr%»gncc for others a round to discuss the matfer. Every woman of good sgnse who has reached %w(gqqqgr‘y years must settle that momentgls question for hgrselt. She knows better about it than anyone else can know. Hers s the risk, hers the responstbility; the final decision should be hers also. It s a stupld, as woll take, that women who frory precosslty. Almost any womah can g & hlsband it she ig o minded, as daily ¢ éfvation attests. When we see thé Tiulfl- fude of wives Who have no visibie sighs of matrimohial recommendation, why should we think that old maids have been totally neglected? We ay meet those who do not look inviting. But we meet any number of wives who are even less Inviting. It must be very rare indeed that an old maid is such from lack of connublal op- portunity. Her condition indicates not that she ls unattractive, but that she is some- what fastidious, that she demands certain qualities in him' that she chooses for a part- ner, and not finding them that she prefers to continue partnerless. The appearance and outgiving of many wives denote that they have accepted the first offer; the ap- pearance and outgiving of many old malds that they have declined repeated offers. It is undeniable that wives, in the mass, have no more charm than old malds have, in the mass. But, as the majority of women are married, they are no more criticised or com- mented ‘on, in the bulk, than the whole sex are. They are spoken of Individually as pretty or plain, bright or dull, pleasant or unpleasant; while old maids are judged as a species, and almost always unfavorably. as a heinous mis- emain biigle do so ot It is now an open fact that feet are grow- ing larger as one consequence of that out- dcor life led by so many girls of the period. The tiny slipper once so raved about in poetry and prose as a positive inspiration when worn by pretty women will come to be regarded as a sort of antediluvian relic, dating from a time when feet were practic- ally unused, their owners being as adverse to actlve exercise as a lap dog. The heavy tread of the beetle-crushing foot will be heard in the land, laments the Providence Journal, and even ultra-fashionables will have to confess to flves, sixes or sevens as their size. With little hysterical giggles they will profess wonderment at the way thelr feet have grown since they took to lawn tennis, physical culture and walking tours, and they can console themselves with the reflection that many other young women have the same tale to tell. " How long, think you, will the high French heel continue In favor, now that women are so much on their feet? It is a form of much on their feet? It is a form of torture, all said and done, If anything like a good walk is attempted, that clump under the middle of the sole just right for slant- ing the foot at a misery-producing angle, and crushing the toes into a corner. I don't know how many women I have heard this last winter expatfating on the good re- sults they have felt from the physical culture class and from regular daily walks. Can any one still prate of the good old times after reading the following extract from a sixteenth century book _entitled, “The Accomplished Lady's Rich Closet, or Ingenious Gentleman's Delighttul Com- panion?"* “A gentlewoman, being at table, must observe to keep her body straight and not lean by any means with her elbows, nor by ravenous gesture discover a voracious ap- petite; talk not when you have meat in your mouth, and do not smack like a pig, nor venture to eat spoon meat so hot that the tears stand in your eyes, which Is as unseemly as the gentlewoman who pre- tended to have as little a stomach as she had a mouth, and therefore would not swallow her peas by spoonful, but took them one by one and cut them in two before she would eat them. It is very unseemly to drink so large a draught that your breath 15 almost gone and you are forced to blow strongly to recover yourself.” Old-time Washingtonians have been de- lighted of late to have among them a woman who was once the central figure in society at the capital. Then she was known as “‘pretty Betty Pliss.”” Before that she had been Betty Taylor, and it was as the daughter of old Zachary Taylor that she presided at the white house in place of her invalld mother. Her father had & great objection to army T've just | use 1 know €0 many of OM THE officers as husbands for his daughters, but with what seemed to him the perversity of the female mind all of thom married mill- tary men. The oldest became the first | wite of Je rson Davis, though it was seven | tong years before General Tuylor gave his | consent. The young bride died within a | yeur after her marriage and her father's | sorrow probably m. the way easler for | Miss Detty when she set her heart on ! Colonel RBliss, It was the hushaud who died this tin and then the hopes of scores of old suitors revived The fascinating { yourg widow finally selected Philip Pendlo | ton Dandridge of Winchester, Va. Though Almost a perpetual battl the war, and though her | brother-in-law was at the head of the con- | federa “pretty Betty DBliss” was never | olested by federul tr Mrs. Dandridg | has been living quietly in Virginia and is still a charming woman | her home was ‘\,mw‘l during s in man's birth look to his linen and nails, and observe the inflection voice. For his tastes, study the color his ties, the pattern and hang of his rs, his friends and his rings—it any hig propensities wilk round and look | carcfully at the back of his head, and, re member, girls, never to Marry a man whosa neck bulges ever so little over his coll | It you want a successful man see tha has a neat foot; he will move quicker, over obstacles faster than a wan who falls over his own and trips up other fol with ‘em, too. For his breeding talk senti- ment to him when he I8 starving and ask him to carry a bandbox down a public street when ‘you've just had a row. 7o test his temper tell him his nose 18 a little on one side and you don’t like the way hix halr grows—dnd if that won't fetch him nothing will. | For a | finger his A pen’ portrait from a foreign correspond- ent of a typical Argentine girl presents a very charming picture, In the bloom of youth, and maturity as well, for she s fully developed at 15, she is beautiful to look upon, with her erect and splendidly propor- tioned figure, perfect oval face, hair as dark as night and lustrous eyes shaded with long, curling lashes. A tinge of European blood gives her checks the dainty pink of a gnm- ask rose. And as her full, red lips poft in a smile over teeth of that pearly perfection seen sh a fascinating object of sensuous beauty. To complete the enchant- ing picture she must be clad in some soft, clinging material made in the latest Parisian yles, with here and there a gleam of dia- monds, and a coquettish hat to frame her dainty face. A woman in the highest sense of her peculiar nature, and yet a child with all the vivacity of youth. ~ She captivates with her beauty, but in mind and soul there is something wanting which physical perfec- tion does not satisfy, and the charm is soon gone, for at 25, when the American girl is just at her best, the Argentine girl is passee, growing corpulent and coarse very rapidly as she approaches middle age. Her habits are Indolent, and she is addicted to the use of rouge and powder to such an extent that her original complexion is entirely con- cealed. Mrs. Eva M. Blackman of Leavenworth, Kan., is the first woman police commis- sfoner on record, and, in the language of the Grasshopper state, “‘she makes things hum!" The papers have been full of tales about her prowess in cutting off official heads, firing old bachelors from the force, installing her friends in office, making the police force doff their hats to her and driving a variety troupe out of town. She also Inaugurated a code of whistle signals by which the force is put In constant communication. formerly an r could never be found when wanted, thanks to Mrs. Blackman, a schedule I8 now in cffect by which the whereabouts of overy man is known at all times. She has succeeded in getting separate quarters for women prisoners, has secured sanitary ar- rangements undreamed of before and has had the jall cleaned and cleared of vermin, Mrs. Blackman is 27 years old, small of stature and believes that comfort and not style should be paramount in dress. She owns and edits a small populist paper, on which she does a great deal of the work. Her 4-year-old boy, who Is said to measure over a foot for every year, is her constant companion. In some forelgn hotels it 1s now the cus- tom to place a box of toilet powder on a table in the guests’ chambers, with a motice zgm it it is opened sixpence will be charged in the bill. Here is a great chance for fome enterprising penny-in-the-slot man- ufacturer. A womgn may not want to ffiy a whole box of powder at every hotel she visits, but a pépnyworth would be an irre- gistible allurement. Why should not a mul- um-ii-paivo mpching be fypnighed whigh ould dispepse hairpins, eau de cologne, shavliig scap, corn plasters, pills and other thmgs often needed by travelers? The day may even come when the necessary but éx- ppnsive bougies of the continental hotel bill may disappear and the tourist be able, by dropping a sou in the slot, to bave five min- ates of electric light. Mrs. Langtry in her new play, “A Society Butterfly,” has put on some very gorgeous wings, indeed, her gowns being not only Worth gowns but masterpleces of that mas- ter's art and skill. A white silk bengaline, with a white chiffon vest, and sash and knots of plain ribbon, does not read so well as it appears, but white brocade with lines of silver passing through garlands of pink roses, has In these mere words ample suggestions of ravishing loveliness. As_Aphrodite in the tableaus of the third act, Mrs. Langtry wears a richer variety of the accustomed Greek dress, but later she returns to the mode of the moment, with a rose-pink satin reception costume, sewn (as to the skirt) into a knee-deep border of gold sequins veiled in tulle. To the tulle are caught sprays of La France roses. The bodice has a sequined belt and a smaller rose spray, while the sleeves are a double frill of spangled tulle. “Let the final dress be sympathetique,”” Mrs. Langtry had en- joined of Mr. Worth; and the answer has come in a lovely compound of rich white satin and old lace, with a cloak of. turquols and pink brocade, lined with pink satin. Feminine Notes. Beatrice Harraden, the authoress, is visit- ing friends near San Diego. Queen Victorla has now fifty-seven de- scendants, of whom four are or have been sovereigns, and nine are heirs apparent. The best known woman painter of northern Europe is said to be Baroness Emma Sporre of Norway. Lady Lansdowno has presented a hand- some silver medal to the Ladies’ Golt cfub of Calcutta, of which she was formerly presi- dent. Mrs. Stephen Cooms of Rockport, Me., who is 96 years old, has spun sixty-two skeins of yarn this last winter and carded one fleece of wool, Seventy-five girls employed as walitresses in a Toledo (0.) restaurant struck rather than wear caps. They had submitted to various other regulations, but thought this order capped the climax. Mrs: Blaine 1s working steadily upon the life of her husband. It was supposed that “Gail Hamilton” (Miss Dodge) would write the book, but Mrs. Blaine, who has much lit- erary abllity, will divide the labor with Miss Dodge. Mrs. Henry Ward Beecher says in regard to woman suffrage: “I am unalterably opposed to woman suffrage. I cannot understand why women will not be satisfied with belng women, without aspiring to man's estate.” The Grand Duchess Xenla, the czar's eld- est daughter, who is to be marrled in August, and her brother, the czarowitz, who is to be married In October, are extremely amiable and ‘'unassuming and immensely popular. Qctavia M. Bates says that ninety-five feminine disorders are directly traccable to tight lacing, and that the usual toast at medical banquets Is, ““Woman, God's best gift to man, and the chief support of the doctors."" The city council of El Paso, Tex., has passed an ordinance prohibiting women from wearing divided skirts on the streets of that town. Public opinion there is bifurcated, so to speak, as to the wisdom of such legisla- tlon, “To Margot Tennant, be, from W. F. Gladstone, with warm recollections and fervent hopes,” was the inscription on Mr. Gladstone's wedding pres- ent to this bride, the daughter of one of his most cherlshed friends. Mrs. Kendal, who is justly noted for her lovely complexion, glves the following as her beauty formula: Ten hours' sleep every night; a four-mile walk every day; Vigorous rub- bing In cold water; brown bread; no sweets and no coffee. Miss Grace Chisholm of Cambridge uni- versity, England, Miss Maltby of Wellesley college, and Miss Mary F. Winston of Chi- she is and s to AHA DAILY BEE | of SUNDAY, JUNE 10, cago havo recelved speeinl pormission from the German govern Y0 enter the Univers sity of Gottingen wijl same privileges en- Joyed by men Mrs. Julia Ward Howe at 75 Iy vigorous and in t il pewsbselbh of all her fuculties She is still by cotkmon consent the most noted woman in pubiidolife in New England, and next to MargaroMulicr sho has roceived probably more thamaxw other woman there the fullness ot populir #oncr Spain has only ‘HAw woman lawyer, Manuoln y Palldo 8 Mirid, Sho is a re markably nandsome yo6ng woraun, as Amer- cans had a chance t0 discorn last summer at Chicago, where her portrait hung in the Spanish exhibit In?the © Woman's building. | The permit allowifit liér to practice in tho Spanish courts hung oar by, Fembnlng Tips. Amethyst colorod moire, made up with whito lace Jot, makes a-very stylish gown. Dolleate hucd poplfnd with cross-rib pat- terns, will b used by many fashionablo modistes this summ hams will be much In white they are Parasols of swivel gir used durfug the summer, very dalnty. A new style shows a tho in fancy hairpins I or network ellver, & mado of pearl annis and croguet lace pins, aleo and silver horses are bein efit of the summer girl. The lntest covert suits are trimmed with blas bands of the cloth strotched Into a scroll pattern, which is stitched on by a machine. Heavy white applique embroidery mado into corslets, vests, cuffs and epaulettes is seen on summer gowns of crepon In pale colorings. Black flowers continue to hold their po- sition as a stylish garniture for hats and Donnets, no matter what their color may he. Silk muslin, crepe lisse, linen and lawn embrolderies are much used In the con- coction of the elaborate corsages worn to- day. White and pale heing sold for we Theso have stitching yellow. Narrow black velvet ribbon, overlald with ecru vine lace, or insertions of the same yellow lace, is a new combination In trim- mings. Pin-lead dotted Swiss in pure white shades are trimmed with deep yellow lace and aro quite effective as well as distinctly modish. Peach and blue In combination are very popular at the moment. But to be perfect the blue must be like the sky, and the peach glowing red pink. The latest thing in dress linen is em- broidered with flowers in thelr natural shades, and the same color s repeated in the blouse which Is worn with them. A dainty light mantle for evening wear in the summer is made of French lace laid in_accordion plaits and edged with narrow frills of black lace. Collettes, pelerines, chemisettes and para- sols are made of watered sllk. Butter col- ored laces and cream and ecru laco insertions are used as garnitur Embroldered musling are fashionable in Parls. The embroidery takes the form of spots, all white, varying in size “from that of a pin’s head to a pea. Lace and jet are two garnitures that are very popular, espccially when combined. A pretty \llustration of this combination is seen in the stylish bolero, Jackets displayed at the lace counters. e Large ribbon bows are worn at the back of the neck, with dressy-costumes. The ef- fect of these bow in | combination with the broad bows that adorn the backs of stylish hats is pecullar. ¢ A pretty novelty for Ahe pocket consists of a tiny book for pbstage stamps and a small calendar. The leaves of the book are of rice paper,’und’the flat covers are of sterling silver. ‘Fhes¢alendar is of cellu- loid. Neat and nervlccgh’lc driving and traveling cloaks are made of lightwelght serge, black Japanese waterproof siTk, changeable surah or taffeta glace, Capes of thé same ma- terial or of lace ma¥ be fised as trimming. A new conplication .in strictly fashionable dress, which entails no,end of expense and a lot of bother, |g to have the lining of silk dresses, the petticoat underneath, stockings, blouse, bonnet, and parasol all in one color. Tiny botiles cavered with lizards or snake skin are mounted with silver trimmings, and tiny displayed ellow evening gloves are r with long sleeved gowns. in black, white and ffed “1“ fing perfumes of lavendar-salts, Some of these are very flat and so small that they can be easily slipped into the hand un- derneath the glove. = FASHIONS IN MEN'S WEAR, The materials used for both single and double-breasted jackets are largely twist twill flannels, serges in fancy weaves and Scotch homespuns. White duck trousers for outdoor games are found too stiff, hot and uncomfortable, and, while they are eminently proper on a yacht, they will be gradually discarded on the lawn or in games. The cap for outdoor use is of the yachting shape, a little more flat than last year. The “Cambridge” is a new shape brought from London, and has a graceful, careless appear- ance, well adapted for the purpose. The tennis jacket, which only a short time ago was so startling in its broad stripes of glaring colors as to become known as a “blazer,” has been so toned down that it may be worn without causing any special obmment. For sults the English “shrunk finish” in cricket cloth fs best adapted on account of firmness. The colorings are light gray or brown, having navy or light blue and black narrow stripes, or the same stripes on a white ground. Leather belts are fashionable. They may have either covered or uncovered rings, or they may be plain, though the former are preferred. The widths are 1%, 1% and 2 inches. Plain calf are the most common, though morocco, imitation alligator and plgskin are new, and in dark tan are hand- some. Trousers must be very long, and are turned up at the bottom. They have three loops, one on each side and one at the back, to allow the belt to pass through, and in no case, of course, 18 it proper to wear suspend- ors with a tennis suit. Trousers have two side, but no hip pockets. They must be made to fit full and loose, to allow for shrinking. Striped silk belts are passe. Plain black or mavy blue, and the same having a cluster of very fine hair line stripes running length- wise, will be worn. The width is two to two and one-half inches. ~ They buckle with two narrow straps In front, which are covered with the end of the belt, giving it appearance of a black silk sash. Plain white serges having a self stripe of a fancy weave such as basket, mat or honey: comb, and delicate hair lines in colors on either side, are largely used for double- breasted jackets, This, material s heavy enough to be used for trousers, which must match the jacket ‘Q‘((‘ulor and pattern. Homespuns are mdde hh plain colors, with trousers to match, The tennis shirts Madras, zephyr or today are made of heviot” cloth, They have a turndown collar, fastened on; and the sleeves are finisMed with half “cuffs. They are not starched (oxcept the collar and cufts), but are “présged soft.”” In color blue is the most popular, ;which may be plain, striped or figured. Piffk and dull hellotrope come next, cither playy or figured, and buft last. Corn never looked Rikter In Johnsoa and Pawnee counties "fib‘: time of the year than it does now. tand is perfect and the weather has by favorable to cultl- Vation that tho creg Rdtree from weeds. J MPERIA HAIR REGENERATO ing In seven shades. Th estores gray nair to the hair. The beard ceount of its 55, DURABIL| 6§ LIGHT CHEST) DARK BROWN. 6. GOLD BLOND, MEDIUM BROWN. 7. ASH BLOND TN UT. PRICE, $1.5) We make applications a speclalty, and have the finest private rooms in the city. 292 5th AVE., N. Y. Sold by druggists and hair dressers. We have no branch offices in New York, The above ploture was taken from a recent photograph of Mme. M. Yalo and glvos but a faint idea of he: rare loveliness. At 41 yearsof axo 8o doss not look more than 1S. Sho Is sa 1 to > tho most beautiful woma. Uving. She was not bora beautiful-hor marvelo us romodies have done the work., Roud of them bel6w. MME. M. YALR A DREAM OF BEAUTY. HER EXCELSIOR COMPLEXION REMEDIES— Mme. M. Yale, Winn, Medal and Diploma--ALL HAIL TO BEAUTY! of the World’s Fa THE FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH AND BEAUTY. Afme. M. Yalo's Exoolsior Comploxlor Romad s, for purlty and hizh olass morit, 8o say tho Natlonal Judgos on Awards; all other com>laxion ramadies. br'h ds n>stion BEAUTY CULTIVATE D—Tho women and maldons of every nation who desir Lrocaizn, o 11s3ad by thom, (o bocome beautiful are ade vised to use thoso groatest of Complexion Romodios. NATURAL BEAUTY is dovelopod by every application= THE COMPLEXION bocomes radiantly beautirul. YOUTH RESTORED. WRINKLES REMOVED, THIN FACES MADE PLUMP. Trade-Mme. M. Yale’s Skin Food-Mark Wrinkles, sunken cheeks, y_trace of age are removed with Mme. Yale's Skin Food. Tt matters not how old the person 18 or how deep the wrinkles. The Skin Food will do the work to the entire satistaction of all who use it, as this genuine and only absorbant Food in the "The public are cautioned against many ss imitations that are on the market. Sce that every jar has Mme. Yale's name on it. Price, $1.00 and $3.00. Freckles and La Freckla. Everyone has heard and read of the wonderful La the only cure for freckles In the world, rom three days to ono week it will ry trace of them, leaving the skin as pure and clear as cream and strawberries. Any Imun, woman or child with freckles on their skin 18 hereby absolutely guaranteed that La Ire 18 @ genuine cure, and will do exactly as stat in ‘this article. There are no complexiof beautiful as those that freckle—after La I has removed the freckles. One bottle is suffic in most cases to do the work. A few applica- tions will remove tan and sunburn. Price, $1.00. Mme. Yale's Complexion Bleach. A guarantecd cure for Moth Patches, Sallo ness and all discolorations of the skin. Guar- anteed to make any complexion naturally clear and beautiful. Pric ) per bottle. Mme. M. Yale's Trade—BUST FOOD—Mark Wil develop and or bust plump, white and through the pores, fattening and buflding up the flesh, strengthening and stimulating the muscles, untii the beauty of the parts are perfect, Price, $1.50 and $3.00 per jar. Skin Diseases Cured. AL LOTION and SPE- cure for Black- mples and Skin Diseases. Mmé Yale has made the study of Skin Dis- eases n speclal branch of her work, and It i to her effords that solence owes an everlasting debt of gratitude. Her success in curing skin di needs no known 1iving and Spec in the wo curing Black] all manncr of Skin Diseascs. teed. Price, $1.00 each. make beautiful. hends, Lotion medicine “imples and iey are guaran- The Hair Conquered. Mme. M. Yale’s BEXOCELSIOR HAIR TONIC Its Mighty Ruler. For the first time fn the history of the world gray hair is turned back to its orlginal eolor without dye. Mme. M. Yale celsior Hair Tonie hus the marvelous power of giving the natural coloring matter eire n, consequently cstoring the gray I origing Its complete mastery human created @ sensation all o world that never be forgotten, us c h hafled with endiess joy gy D worry over and no_mo using Jurious hal M n Ist has ne she stan; x whe @ sclentist, of falling h week. ‘s kil a8 v man or conquer e for any allment scalp. without injury or sticky, b most perfect ho 1t will keep t a luxuriant, Tightful delicate it dressing known curl for y growth and hals out the same a8 nteed genu- use, ax the natural color from the roots \Id. Every bottle {8 gu BEWARE OF IMITAT Make sur bottle Is labeled Mme. M, Yale's Bx- Price, $1.00 per bottle; 6 for its whe ine that every Isior Halr Tonic. $5.00, Mme. Yale’s Fertilizer. A cure for costipation. There has er been a medicine like it No case Pleasant to tuke, Price, $1.50, Remedies are guaranteed abuo contain no poison or injurious sub- ny nature; can be used with absolute s by men, women and children, A guarant positively ne Wil resist It Yale's Cure MME. only p delighted. Mme. M. Creates n thick mukes the brows, curling, eyebrows of and beauty. I Mme. for Superfluous Hair. YALE'S GREAT SCOTT. ermanent cure for superfluous h minutes to do the ave o trace of ever fts application. Ladieg unsightly disfigurement are ade it at once and they will be mor€ Price, $5.00, Yale’s Eyebrow and Eye« lash Grower luxurlant growth of eyes v long, thick an utifier known. — Th 4 lnshen"are a very tmportant parl Price, $1.00. Yale's Hand Whitener and Makes the hands 1ily white, the skin_fine grained, soft, delical te. Mme. As the heau Iy on the pur Tonic should the the oughly ngth; it ® $1.00 per’ bott 00 tonic and nd building and beautiful. Price, $1.00 per botd » M. Yale's Blood Tonie, ity of the complexion depends gres ity of the blood, Mme. Yale's Blood be used by It 18 by fay tonie on ¢ 1t acts o vor, o cryone. o market. ring the up the general b tiken at this season. 0. hould b le; 6 for Mme. Yale's Almond Blossom Com« This Is one dies; It makd soft, white a Mme. Removes mol harmless and w Y woman suft o sp spel Are the White Mme. Y A treasure conts. host for itself. Mme, Y plexion Cream. of Mme. s 1 e's most popular remes skin fine grained and keeps if nd beautiful. Price, $1.00, Yale’s Mole and Wart Extractor nd warts In a few applications| nderful. Price, $3.00. L Fruitcura. g with female weake ulteura Ih guars to malk wnent cure, One bottle Wi rice, $1.00. ¢'s Face Powders in the world—Brunctte, Flesh and 1 pe 50 cents box. ‘ale’s Complexion Soap. and @ necessity for the tollet. ® ALL DRUGGISTS SELLL AND INDORSHE THARM. KUHN & CO., 16th and Douglas Sts, MERCH/ 24th and Farnom; W. J. HUGH wholesale by E E, BRUC. Ask your Druggist for Mme. Yale's Beauty Journal, NT & VIOKERS, 16th o Farnam; € €O, nd Howard; KINSLER DR 20, S, DAVIS, Council Blufls, and by all Druggists. By and RICHARDSON DR ©CO., 16t Given away free, MME. M. YALE, BEAUTY AND COMPLEXION SPECIALIST, Temple of Beauty, 146 State-st, Chicago. EXACT SIZE PERFECTO! THE MERCANTILE IS THE FAVORITE TEN CENT CIGAR. sale by all First Class Dealers. F. R. RICE MERCANTILE CI Manufactured by the AR CO,, Vactory No. 804, St. Louls, Mo,