Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, April 22, 1894, Page 19

GIRLISH GALL AND GOSSI Bighing for the Btately Dignity of Old Fashioned Phrase, WANT MAN TO ADOPT THE MODEL OF 1830 With Bell-Crowned Speech snd FPog-Top Manners Like the Starched Image of Mis Ancestor — Frills of Fieklo Fashion. One thing of 1830 there Is whieh has not yet come back to us. Our dudes may boast thelr bell-crowned hats and wide trousers, our belles their taffetas and watered silks and sweet simplicity of wide-ended bows, but the stately dignity of old-fashioned phrase Is gone, vanished into the dead black mirk of hopeless forgottenness There was an old man whose face was scamed, and his fine head with its thateh of thick white locks was well carried on a pair of broad shoulders. There was in his move- ment and speech something of the deliberate self-possession that we associate with more lefsurely days, writes Ellen Osborn in the Brooklyn Times. The lady with whom he was talking had laughingly spoken of her “worlk,” and it was good to see the old fel- low's impressive manner and air of perfect sincerity as he said, “Madam, such lips as yours &hould riever mention work. — You 8hould be a duchess and wear pearls “You—you—you're looking charming to- night, 'pon my word, y'are, don’t y' know; but, T say, Miss Kitty, why d'ye weah that beastly wed and yellow dress? [ don't like it.”” That was what I heard five minutes later, addressed in squeaking tones to the same splendid visfon of girl loveliness by an aturely ba'd anglo- undersized, stcoping, pren mani The compliment of 1830 and 1804! dignity and the fmpudence, the reservy The o and the familiarity, the kindness that sees no fault, and the offensive plain speech where plain speech can only wound, were there contrasted. Which do you prefer? Oh, for bell-crowned speechi and peg-top manners if one must harp back to a van- tshed age for something worth saving! For the pretty girl of today is worth fair words and courteous bearing. Foam of the frothing sea is not lighter, sheer of the greening grass is not gayer, fragrance of flowers yet to bloom s not more sweet than my little lady in her spring raiment, than her mates and compeer in such infinite variety of garb that one can hever tire of it, Even in sober black she is admirable. I saw today a splendid ature, tall and stately, and full_blown and finely colored, who wore a stift standing collar, an old- fashioned black silk *'stock” like Daniel Webster's, a_ black vest-jacket cut to show Just a tiny triangle of white shirt bosom, and a sable silken shirt. Mascullne enough it sounds. But velvet softness of cheek and dimpling chin, and bearing gracious and graceful too—these one must have seen to quite comprehiend how very charming it all was, Watered and moire and glace effects rage with undiminished virulence. These silks are much used fn making wraps as well as dresses, and glinting jets add to the mirror- like effects and helps to render our streets gay as a garden of flowers. These wraps of Jet and silk, light, frivolous things that do not repel the cold—which will return to take sly vengeance on us, all retain the wide shoulder and neck effects which have so long ruled. Always there is fluff and flutter of lace at the shoulder's edge, and usually there is a big bow at the throat from _ribbon three or four inches wide, and usually, too, the high collar, outward curving at the top, which secems to cherish a pretty, proud face like a lly's calyx. But the gowns and wraps of soberer stuff have quite moderate sleeves; and let me add that two tall girls of my acquaintance are wearing this spring gowns bought three years ago in Paris and now just in the helght of the fashion—bell skirt, moderate shoulder puff and all, so slowly in essentlals does fashion move. It takes a dozen years to make a mode. A dozen styles may flourish in a week. There {s the heart ring, for instance. Drop from belt or chatelaine or buckle a chain, from the chain let ther» fall a ring, or rather a silver wire contrivance ltke a key- ring, but more ornate, bent in the heart shape. Now the wearer is ready for her prey. Hers is the old “bangle” quest over again, with a difference. Bvery man who loves her—that's the way she puts it—must give her his heart—a tiny silver heart, that is, and the more welcome if it is studded with little Jewels—pearls tor a blonde, rubles for a brunette. Perhaps some may give the silver heart where love does not lead the way. At any rate, ten or twelve of these tokens 1s a moderate number for a bello to display. That may do for the folly of the day, but the giving of real hearts will outlast our century and the next. The accordion plaited front and back for 23a-gown use have their day and their to- morrow, but I have seen lovely tea gowns made with embroidered front and others with soft masses of lace away down. China silk, with soft, dust-colored lace, is a very pretty materiai, too; perhaps it's a pity the tea gown season is so nearly over, there are 80 many pretty things in that line to tempt one. There are many pretty things for middle- aged women to wear. Never was there a season like it. Such a June-faced matron as I saw bidding farewell to her daughters in a carriage dress so plain and neat and trim—I could but echo her daughter's word of admiration. And why should a woman denounce the harmless vanities of the world because she has a grown-up daughter? I rejoice that there are for her the rich and shining and lustrous materials of this year of grace, and that more than ever before she weareth what she listeth, But the hats! A pretty one which T have mot sots flat on the head like a toque with an erect ribbon of pale green, one pale yel- low rose on one side, and black roses on the other. Another hat which claims admiration 18 of coarse black straw, with the brim turned up in three points In the front, but flat at the back, where it is trimmed with a broad bow of black watered silk; at one side of this Is an erect osprey and a bunch of heliotrope, while beneath the brim is a bow of watered ribbon fastened with a paste buckle. Paste gems are more liberally used in dress and hat garniture than at any other time in my remembrance. It gives a gew- gaw glitter to the hats and bonnets, the dresses and even to the wraps of the day. Steel s popular, too. It forms the em- broldery on numbers of pretty dre:ses and looks delightful combined with jet. So shall we call this the age of adamant? Ghardaia, a charming green oasis in the midst of the Sahara, is the center of the Berber confederation, which occuples the six surrounding citles. They are a curlous people, distinct from the Arabs. Appar- ently they are descended from the original inhabitants of Sahara, we learn from Adela E. Orpen's “The Chronicles of Sid."” Some of their practices and customs are singular enough. ~ Tne women of Ghardala, for in- stance, have succeeded in evolving an ex- alted state of women's rights for themselves, Their position is a truly singular one. Un- like the Arab women, they are treated as the equals and not the slaves of their men. Equally with the men they draw up their own marriage contracts, and make what conditions they please. A copy of one of the marrlage contracts lies before me now, and T see that If the husband should go away for two years he would be divorced, or it he became “addicted to the consump- tion of liouors or the use of tobacco the samo sad fate would befall him. This is a prohibition with a vengeance. The women of Gharadia are never allowed to leave home, nor to marry ‘outside the walls,” as the phrase goes. They have taken care, therefore, to make that home as comfortable as possible, since they must 58 their whole life in it The Arabs are Orientals. They have come from the east, where women have ever been looked upon as the slaves of men. The Berbers are African; they own a dif- ferent origin. Dido, we know was queen of Carthage, and this may point to the fact that wamen were held in high estima tion In that African civilization which dis- appeared when Rome assumed the command of the world. Everybody remembers the portrait un. Pleasantness between Mrs, Mackay and the Painter Melssonter, but a still more promi- hent affair is likely to be brought out in THE OMAHA Paris by the auit of a framemaker against a soclety lady whose full name will soon appear in the trial. 8o far the Paris papers call her the Baronesa de S———. Well, this lady has a nose, but it must not | for a moment be supposed that it is like com- New York mon people’s noses, says the Sun. Not a bit of it. It Is a relic of the crusades, and further back even. In a | word, it 18 a classical nose par excellenc Of course the lady is very proud of this no 8he can do anything with himi. A day or two since, when returning from a drive, she made the ex-premier promise to give her a dance when thoy got home. When they en- tered 10 Downing street she Issued the com- mand,“Now, grandpa, give me your um- brella and give me my dance.” Mr. Gla ne, the statesman of 84, pirouetting with the child of 3! The Pall Mall Gazette, In a discussion of ’ the much discussed Revolt of the Daugh- d that's whero all the trouble comes from. | {ist o got hor portrait painted. The bar. | 15 8Upposed to constitute a “well brought up e | mother: gain wag closed at a high figure She gave e e (gs, & ordone BAYe | TiSha must never ask questions, lest him sevetal sttings, and at lust ordered hifm |, i "ljos, She must learn not to make e Bleture framed I gOrBeoUs 8Y1® | inconvenient remarks and allow her daugh 9. A% TESICERIG, | ters to say the social thing that is not, to In due time it arrived. On seelng it she | 7% ‘0 7 " | ler own domestic knowledge, with an un. goreamed and nearly fainted. | Ter nose! | moved countonunce. She must not Insist er nose! her nose! asn ; tho falr, frail creature wearing warmer 1Sasv anin, CIOURHE IEL WRRL, SOI L BAC it | clothing or stouter boots than is consistent nose like that,” she yelled, “I'd throw myself | with'" faghjon. She must know everything into the Seine!” Then right away she wrote | to the artist the following eplstle: Sir—Yes or no, did you ever look at my | nose? Do you mean to pretend for a mo- ment that it is pointed? The one that you put in this portrait would cut the canvas. [ refuse the picture, Neither judges or tri- bunals can oblige me to admit that my nose 1s pointed. Try to retouch this horror, it you can; and, above all things, don't give me a tat nose now. I am your servant, etc Afte reading this effervescent plece of literat ire the artist at first became angry Finall , however, he took a page from his ot all sketched a lot of noses forms, Including Greclan no: Roxelane noses, Bourbon red noses, warty noses, noses, long and short and Behanism noses with albury and shapes and Roman noses, noses, parrot noses, thin noses, thick noses, flat noses rings In them Then he wrote to the baroness this note: Madame—I_took pains to paint your nose Just as it is; but I regret that I mistook your intention. ~ However, since you absolutely want a nose acording to your fancy, will you have the goodness to select one from the enclosed collection which I have the honor to submit. I will then immediately put it on, and the difficulty will be removeda Accept the assuranc of my very high con- sideration, etc., etc. On reading the above the baroness fainted. On recovering she burned the portrait. The artist has not yet commenced legal proceed-- ings, but the framemaker has, and the nasal trial promises to be b We owe to the Jews that theory of a primitive state which has been the cause of s0 many errors and failures during the last elghteen centu Human history opens with Eden, a perfect marriage and a happy family. But it was not in this way that man commenced his career. Whatever is good in him had to be groped for, fought for with blood and tears, and held through infinite and severe struggles, writes Lady Cook, nee Tennessee Claflin, in the Westmin- ster Review. Many races perished and thcse that survived had and have to work out their own salvation. Nelther can any tribe or nation trace its descent to an individual Many peoples have professed to do so, but in all cases their genealogles are spurious and their common ancestor fletitious. Be- sides, it can be demonstrated that the fam- {ly appeared last in the order of social devel- opment. Indeed, this has now almost be- come an ethnographical axiom, and the law of progression, as against the debasing theory of retrogression, has been amply vin- dicated. In the carliest times of purchase a woman was bartered for useful goods or for serv- ices rendered to her father. In this latter way Jacob purchased Rachel and her sister Leah. This was a Beena marriage where a man, as in Genesis, leaves his father and his mother and cleaves unto his wife, and they become one flesh or kin—the woman's. The price for a bride In British Columbia and Vancouver Island varies from £20 to £40 worth of articles. In Oregon an Indlan gives for her horses, blankets or buffalo robes in California shell money or horses; in Af- rica cattle. A poor Damara will sell a daughter for a cow; a richer Kaffir expects from three to thirty. With the Banyai it nothing be given her family claim her chil- dren. In Uganda, where no marriage re- cently existed, she may be obtained for half a dozen needles, or a coat, or a pair of shoes.. An.ordinary price is a box of per- cussion caps. In other parts a goat or a couple of buckskins will buy a girl. Pass- ing to Asia we find her price Is sometimes 5 to 50 roubles, or at others a cartload of wood or hay. A princess may be purchased for 3,000 roubles. In Tartary a woman can be obtained for a few pounds of butter, or where a rich man gives twenty small oxen a poor man.may succeed with a pig. In Fiji her equivalent is a whale's tooth or a musket. These, and similar prices else- where, are eloqueat testimony to the little value a savage sets on his wife. Her charms vanish with her girlhood. She is usually married while a child and through her cruel slavery and bitter life she often becomes old and repulsive at 25. To eat maize pudding from the same plate or to eat in any way together is a widely distributed marriage ceremony. In Brazil a couple may be married by drink- ing brandy together; in Japan, by so many cups of wine; In Russia and Scandinavia it used to be one cup for both. The Joining of hands among the Romans and Hindoos ls common to many parts of the world. In Scotland it is called “hand fasting,” and couples live together after. To sit together on a seat while recelving friends, or to have the hands of each tied together with grass, or to smear with each other's blood, or for the woman to tie a cord of her own twist- ing around the naked waist of the man, con- stitutes marriage in one part or another. In Australia a woman carries fire to her lover's hut, and makes a fire for him. In Amer- ica she lays a bundle of rods at the door of his tent, A Loango negress cooks two dishes for him in his own hut. In Croatia the bridegroom boxes the bride'y ears, and in Russia the father formerly struck his daughter gently with a new whip—for the last_time—and then gave the weapon to her husband. Down to the present it fs a cus- tom in Hungary for the groom to give the bride a kick after the marriage ceremony, to make her feel her subjection. Even with all civilized peoples the servitude of the bride is clearly indicated. The religious ceremonies, where they ex- ist, are as numerous and various as human whims and caprices can make them. Ross bach says that the farther we go back the stricter they become. But as Paganism perished in Europe marriage was deprived of religious rites and became a purely civil institution. Christianity restored its re- ligous character, and by a much too free translation from the Greek to the Latin Vulgate of the word “mysterion,” used by St. Paul, the dogma of sacramental marriage had its r By the twelfth century it was gradually developed, and in th Council of Trent made the religious cere- mony the essential part of marriage, with- out which it was rendered invalid. There was a time when after a girl had passed 20 she was called passee, so that it became a matter of moment with her if it were necessary to state her age, and she was thought to exhibit some hardihood if she stated it without pressing reason, But so far has the world progressed while spin- ning down the grooves of change, that now a girl at 30 is not so old in estimation as once she was at 20, and such is the ad- vance from that period when animal charm was the greater that it is now ac- knowledged that at 35 a woman is in her prime for all the uses and enjoyments of life to herself and to others Even although at 40 her a thread or two of silver, Bazar, they argue nothing against her charm and’ effect, and are not more unbe- eoming than was the powder with which she sprinkled her hair and made herself be- witching in masquerades of years ago, and they have very little to do with the de- crease of beauty, anyway, for a falr skin and a rosy color are often brightened and made more attractive by what is consid- ered prematurely gray hair than otherwise. Aud if there are lines about the eyes they head may show says Harper's are not noticed when the eyes kindle with intelligence and the lips curl in gentle smiles. Little Dorothy Drew, Mr. Gladstone's pe grandchild, is strong In her likes and d likes. She declures that she loves soldiers best of anything, but she hates crowd When lamenting the other day, all her t soldiers are at Hawarden, when she does so want them in London, she was made happy by the promise of a box of the very best life guardsmen that can be procured. She was very sympathetic about the mishap of a chid of that had fallen and eut her lip. “But,” she safd, with much consciousness of the dignity of advanced age, “I am 3. As to the crowds her idea is that her mis- slon Is to protect her grandpa in them and to take him under her especial charge. and seem to know nothing, and ‘remember’ or ‘forget' according to the exigencies of the moment. She must consent to be ca- ressed in publie, when such an exhibition Is effective, and snubbed on occasions when the maternal element Is at a discount.” FASHIO! The all black hat spring’s millinery. Black enamel jewelry has been having a decided sale of late, Antelope skin 1s the tafior made waistcoats Tho fancy for wearing jewelry Is growing apace, and long watch chains are becoming popular again, Physicians declare t! NOTES. is a feature of this latest novelty for the spotted vells are making the oculists rich, so much do they injure the sight. The new tennis flannels have tiny silk lines on the surface, and iInclude pretty checks and plain colors. A new reversible silk shows a mauve ground with a pale green spot on one side and a violet one on the other. Fancy novelties in “summer velvet” have colored spots on one side and show up well when combined with black or dark green satin. Large brown velvet roses, black velvet xeyed daisies, with yellow hearts and black vet violets are the latest novelties in mil- liner; New shoes and slippers for tbe bride in- clude a high cut Oxford shoe of fine black patent leather, with tiny white buttons and a piping of white kid around the vamp. A curious fashion in scarf and hat pins consists in having as the pin head a large pearl, elther pink, gray, white or black with ‘a tiny dlamond snake curled slantingly around it The most alient feature of the new “sen- sible dress” model is that it escapes the ground by a good five inches, which s thre too many to the average feminine mind. It is really too carly for the flower bon- nets which are set forth by many of the mil- liners, and they are, even in the time of flowers, only correctly worn on dress oc- casion The newest sleeves for evening wear are cither formed of two puffs, one overlapping and the other caught up on the outside of the arm to form a bow, or are made of a series of frills, one over the other. The *“complexion veil” s a novelty of pale pink Russian net sprinkled with black spots and delicately perfumed. It is very be- coming to pale blondes, yet there is nothing s0 pretty as the regulation black-dotted net. Pongee silk in its natural ccru shade is used for shirt waists, which are made very simply with turnover collars and cuffs and Dishop sleeeves. The really “smart” shirt is made of colored chambray, with white linen collars and cuffs. Some of the half-girdles of velvet or satin on the fronts of French evening bodices are brought to sharp points in the middle, and finished at the right side, a little toward the back, with a tiny vandyked mouchoir-pocket of a fabric like the girdle. The latest caprice In halrdressing is the bowknot. The hair is made into a how, is set high on the head, and is apparently held in place with a tortoise shell dagger. The front hair is parted in a demure fashion and ar- ranged in light curls on the forehead. Very many of the French milliners de- sign special shapes for individual patrous, and straws are dyed to match certain cos- tumes. Thus women who can afford it are sure of securing something totally unlike the styles exhibited in display windows for the seeing, buying, or copying of any pass- erby. FEMININE NOTES. A Washington woman supports herself by shopping for other women on commission. There are 288 cities in Kansas in which women have municipal suffrage on equal terms with men. A clock made fn 1720 ticks away steadily on the parlor mantel of the house of Mrs. Mary Brower in Boston. Baroness James de Rothschild has con- tributed some Venetian scenes to the re- cent water-color exhibition in Paris. Wire hairpins were Invented in England in 1545. Before that time the female coiffures were held in place by fine wooden skewers, Emily A. Bruce, M. D., declares that more women_die annually in England because of faulty dress than from all contagious diseases combined. Mrs. Isabella Bird Bishop, the traveler, though now 60 years of age, has just set off for Corea in search of new material for another book of travels, The St. James Gazette says that the beauty of the French foot is only a tradition, and that to the American women belongs the dis- tinetion in this respect. The governor of Pennsylvania has just ap- pointed Dr. Susan J. Taber one of the trus- tees for the new state hospital for the chronic insane at Wernersville. Lotta Crabtree will be in New York soon on her way to her summer home at Mount Arlington, N. J. She calls the place Attol Tryst, the first part of which is her own name spelled backward. The papers on which letters to the queen of England are written must not be folded. No communication which bears evidence of having been folded will ever get by the mistress of the robes. The duchess of York has just received a wedding gift from Bombay, India, consist- ing of two diamond bangles, composed of forty brilliants, and two diamond ear boutons, inclosed In a box of carved Surat sandal wood, Mrs. Ramona Wolf, whose first name has become famous by réason of Helen Hunt Jackson's romance, has just died. The lib tle adobe church at San Diago, where Ra- mona and Alessandro were married, Is in- varlably shown visitors. Mra. John Sherwood has had a good many amusing experiences since she organized the Kind Word Employment bureau, Hers s a philanthropy not without perquisites, for not long ago a grateful cook made and sent to her two gorgeous stamp plates, Inscribed: “God Bless Mrs. Sherwood's Kind Word." The badge of the Daughters of the Amer- ican Revolution is a silver distaff, showing the flax, and over it a 13-spoked wheel of gold. On the dark blue enameled edge is the name of the society and around it are thirteen stars. Many of the members have a diamond set in cach star, Mrs. Martha Goslin of Brown county, Kansas, is a professional interpreter for In- dians. Her mother was a Pottawattamie and her father a Delaware, but both spoke English. Though Mrs. Goslin Is an expert interpreter, and has transacted business as such at Washington, she can neither read nor writ Mrs, Maria Mead Smith has an unusual claim to public notice. She s a “breaker’ of horses, and in her home, Virginia, Nev., she is famous for her mastery of the wild, rebellious animals. She has a favorite sport, which is to ride through a chaparral, start- ing up rattlesnakes and shooting them from the saddle, The princess of Wales having expressed a wish to have a copy of the music of “Twelfth Night,” Mr. Daly had a special manuscript copy prepared, illustrated with photographs and original water color sketches, This copy her royal highness was, in the language of the English papers, “‘graciously pleased to accept.” This, of course, was very nice of her. be ‘ex-Empress Eugenfe, according to for- eign papers, has given 1,000,000 lire as a Lridal present to her niece, Princess Bugenie Letitia Bonaparte, who became engaged to Prince Fabrizio Massimo a few days ago. The princess Is 21 years old and the bride- groom I8 26. Princess Eugenie s the second daughter of Prince Charles Bonaparte, Her eldest sister was married a few years ago to Lieutenant Eurico Gottl of the Iallan army, DAILY BEE: SUNDAY,! APRIL 22, WOMEN WIELD THE TROWEL Proof that Men Do Not Monopolize the Craft of fuasonry, WOMEN RECOGNIZED BY GRAND LODGES Interesting Roview of the History of the Order In Enrope — Sex Not a Bar to Admission—Wany Noted In- stances C The announcement made a fow weeks ago that the feminfne cyclone of Kansas, Mrs. Mary Elizabeth Lease has broken into the ranks of the Free Masons was met by denials from leading members of the craft. These denlals conveyed the Impression that the claim was absurd, and that if she had come into possession of some Masonic secrets they were secured by stealth. \Women, it was claimed, were Ineligible to the order and none had ever penctrated its sacred circle. A writer in the New York Herald, who is evidently familiar with the history of Ma- nry, declares that talk of this sort Is based on a superficial and inadequate knowledge of the extent to which women, especially in Bu- rope, have been fdentified with Masonic af- fairs. That the secrets of the ancient order have not always been monopolized by men he shows by a recital of historical fnci- dents, Mme. Maria Deraismes, whose death has Just taken place at Paris, was renowned not only as one of the most successful leaders in the struggle for the emancipation of her sex, but likewise for her revival of female lodges of the Masonic craft. Several Buropean and American newspapers described her as hav- ing been the first woman ever deliberately admitted into the mysteries of the order, while others cited the well known Instance of Lord Doneraile’s daughter as being the only other instance of a lady having been ini- tiated. This is altogether wrong. For in the past century there were a large number of ladies of rank who were Free Masons, and at the present moment female Masonic lodges abound in Spain, the principal feminine dig- nitary of the craft being Princess Maria de Bourbon, daughter of the Infant Don Ener- ique, who was solemnly initiated by the EI Taller lodge of Salamanc WOMEN MASONS 1) It was in 1730 that we fi FRANCE. t heard of femi- nine lodges being constituted in France, and although they may be said to have existed alongside of masculine Free Masonry rather than forming part and parcel of it, yet they were definitely recognized as belonging to the craft by decree of the grand orient of France, dated April 10, 1774. Feminine Masonry in those days was restricted almost exclusively to ladies of royal and noble rank. Thus we find the duchess of Chartres as mistress of one lodge and the Duchess of Bourbon of another, both of these princesses being addressed as ‘“‘honorable and worshipful” in the official communica- tions despatched to them by the grand orient of France. Marle Antoinette’s friend, the lovely Princess de Lamballe, who was massacred during the Reign of Ferror, and whose head was_carried on a pike through the streets of Paris, was the mistress of the Social Contract lodge, and, a short time before the overthrow of Royalty, served for a time as grand mistress of, the order. Tn 1805 the Empress Josephine was present at a meeting of a duly constituted feminine Masonic lodge at Strasburg, and again, in 1819, we hear of the celebrated Marquise de Vallette presiding at {hd institution of a new Masonic lodge. In short, feminine Masons abounded in France up to the year 1863, when the decree of Pope Plus IX., denouncing Free Masonry as compatible with membership in the Church of Ronfe, caused the abandon- ment of Free Masonty by women and the practical, if not official, dissolution of thelr various lodges throughout the country. It was not until 1882 that any attempt was made_to revive them. In January of that year Mme. Deraismes was solemnly initiated by the masculine lodge “Les Libres Pen- seurs” (the Free Thinkers), at Lepecq, near Paris. The grand orient of France, however, declined to ratify the selection, and cven went £o far as to officially dissolve the lodge that had been guilty of unauthorized revival of a practice which had become obsolete. LODGES NOW .IN EXISTENCE. In no wise discouraged by this lack of good will on the part of the grand orient Mme. Deraismes took advantage of her initiation to found a Masonic lodge of her own, and at the present moment there are some sixty or sev- enty members belonging thereto, one of the past grand mistresses being Mme. Clemence Royer, wife of the former cabinet minister and statesman of that name. All the ladies who belong to this lodge, which bears the name of Droit Humain, or Human Right, turned out in full force at the tuneral of its founder and laid on her coffin a large wreath and ingcription. Of course the obsequies were of a purely Masonic and lay character, the church being unrepresented at the grave, for Mme. Deraismes, like all her sister Masons of the present day in France, was a Free Thinker and an enemy of the Catholic church. She made a profession of these setiments when she applied for recog- nition of her lodge to the grand orient. *It is through woman that Catholicism has made its way into our social system,” she de- clared, “and If it maintains its place there it is entirely through woman. You would therefore, O my brethren, do well to initiate as many women as possible into the craft if you wish to combat Catholicism on an equal ground.” 1t has become a noteworthy fact that when in 1863 the great ladies of France abandoned Masonry in deference to the injunction of the Church of Rome, the women of Spain, who are quite as religious, and perhaps even still more submissive to the church, should have gone on maintaining lodges and practicing the craft. MASONRY IN PORTUGAL. For some reason or other, however, the Catholic church regards the Masons in Spain and Portugal with a far more Indul- gent eye than either those of France or of Italy. Thus, I remember some years ago attending the funeral of a Senhor Anton d'Aguilar, who, at the time of his death, held the’ position of grand master of the craft in Portugal. Dom Anton was an ex-minister of public works, a senator, the president of the Royal Geographical society, and, for several years, had acted as governor and bear leader of the present king. A great favorite at court, his death was sincerely mourned by the royal family. His body lay in state for three days In the church of St. Isabel, ar- rayed in his Masonic insignia, and among the wreaths and floral emblems deposited at the bler were many 'bearing Masonic In- scriptions, which, however, did not prevent the priest from kneeling in an attitude of prayer beside the eoffin throughout the whole time that the body remained lying before the altar. On the day of the funeral, which was attended by the representatives of the late king, the queen and’the present king in state’ carriages, a large cortege of prelates and priests In full canonicals were present The full services of the Cathollc churc were performed by the clergy at the gray during the course of the ceremony di courses of farewell to the dead statesman being_delivered by Deputy Senlor Elias on behaif of the Free Masons of Portugal and by Senhor Villarino en behalf of those in Spain. I may add that Senor Sagasta, the prime minister of the most Catholic country on the face of the earth=-namely, Spain—holds the rank of grand master of the Free Ma- sons in that country. PRINCES WHO ARE MASONS. In Great Britain the craft is presided over by the prince of Wales, in Sweden and Nor- way the grand mastership is held by King Oscar, who occupled that office before his as cension to the thone. As In the case of the sons and grandsons of the queen of England, 80 are also the sons of King Oscar members of the craft. In Denmark it is the crown prince who is the head of the grand orient, while the late Emperor Frederick held the grand master- ship of German Free Masons from 1855 until the time of his death. His son, although a Mason, has declined to accept the grand mastership in succession of his father, or to attend any lodge meetings since he be came emperor. In Austria, agaln, F Masonry s eschewed by the aristocrac and the reigning family, as it is also in Rus sia snd Belgium, while in Hollaud the Duteh nobility are nearly all members of the PAGEN. craft. I none of these countries, hewover, save Spain and Portugal, do feminine lodges exist nowadays, and tho only woman that has ever been Initiated as a Mason in Great Britaln was Lord Doneraile's daughter INITIATED UNDER COMPULSION. The meetings of the lodge over which Lo} Doneralle presided were held at his rest dence, Doneraile castle, and in the course of one of the meetings, which was held in a hall communicating with a smaller room, in which his young daughter happened to be occupled by chance, the young lady unwit- tingly overheard all that was golng on 1 tanch alarmed to know how to act, sho at first thought the meeting would shortly disperse and that her accidental presence mould never be discovered, and then again it occurred to her that she had better escape if it were possible to get away unper She accordingly stole out, and, keeping close to the tapestry of the vast hall in the dim light, successfully passed the gontletnen seated at the table in the middle of i, who were too much absorbed to notice her. Sho reached the door and opened it, when, to her dismay, she found herself cenfronted with the sentinel, or “tyler,” whose office it is to guard the approach s whenever a lodge i3 held. This functionary, as in duty bound brought his prisoner back to the middle of the hall and presented the terrified girl to the assembly. Unanimous regret was frankly expressed for the fate that the young woman had in curred, but all agreed that there was only one issue. “Oh! no, gentlemen,” safd Lord Doneraile m not going to lose my only daughter; you must find some other way out of it.” “There can be but one ‘other way,'™ re plied the spokesman, “but she is not a man; it she were she might be sworn in a Free Mason.” hen,” said Lord Doneraile, “‘she must be sworn in without being a man.” The co clusion was accepted, the young lady wa sworn in there and then, and proved as loyal as Irish women invariably are to any oath which they may take. e SRR One word describes it, “perfection.”” We refer to Dewltt's Witch Hazel salve, cures plles. KNIGHT ~ PUZZLE AWARDS HOPPING People’s last puzzle, pub Harper's Young Peopl lished by The Bee simultaneously with that periodical, brought out all of the books of Ieference in scores of librarles, and drove not a few librarians frantic. The title of the clover story, that was a puzzle as well as a story, was the “Hopping Knight,” and Harper's Young People, In making the awards in its issue for April 10, will say: Some solvers said this puzzle was likely to serve them as the verse did the poor knight, so fascinating were its questions, and yet so elusive were the answers to them. It seems impossible to make puzzle awards, where annousiced in advance, fit the conditions that obtain when the awards come to be made. If we offer to divide a certain sum among the solvers, everybody wants to know at once how much the b solution IS to get. If we offer sum for the best solution it alm happens that there is no one be Many seem to think the prizes are for those who get solutions. to this office first_in point of time, That is not our offer. We offer prizes for the best solutions mailed up to a date named. In this contest we divided the prize money, but as usual those advance divisions do not fit the case when all the answers are in hand. There are in the ‘“Hopping Knight"" contest five perfect answers. They answer the questions—not, of course, in the exact words here given by us, but in cor- rect terms—and they spell every word cor- rectly. These names are: Risle Louise Farr, Philip P. Barton, Paul H. Kelsey, Paul’ Reese and Robert W. Sawyer, ir., and they represent New York, Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, Maryland and Maine. We give them $5 each. Five others sent answers that were defective in some small degree, as the use of the wrong form of the singular possessive in the word “Castle’ in the required jingle; or the assertion that the omnibus bill was passed, when Lossing plainly says in the paragraph quoted word — for word by the solver that it was not Their names are: Edith B. Wright, Fred- erick W. Goddard, Mary O. Elster, James P. McLean and Mary T. Randall, and we glve to each $3. Ten others, while giving substantially correct answers, failed in one or more particulars, generally of a trifle less excusable character than the others, as fail- ure to answer both questions in No. 4, etc Their names are: Ida E. Bowers, Walter Blair, George R. Howell, Edna Rosebrugh, Bdgar H. Goold, Vincent V. M. Beede, Edna L. Farr, Lillie Hemphill Carrick, Henry S. Canby and Edith M. Schenck, and we give to each $1, or a total of $50 in money to all. In this contest a large number of solvers, while getting the answers correct, or nearly s0, misspelled some words. We do not mean technical words, proper names or anything likely to have two spellings, but common rds that solvers ought not to have mlssed. Not a few on the honor roll are there, in- stead of on the prize roll, solely for this reason. Here is the honor roll. which repre- sents pretty nearly every state in the union, Canada and France: Mansfield Ferry, William Lord, Fred- erick Schwed, Frank Arnold Urner, Charles A Urner, Edith H. Tracy, Upton B. Sinclair, jr., Ledyard Cogswell, jr., Alice W. Pearse, Minnie E. Sears, Will Whitmore, Hilda W. Green, 8. Wickham Corwin 2nd, Allce Slosson, Elizabeth B. Beatty, Herman A. Wade, Lillian Small. % Rupert 8. Holland, George W. Berry, George Beers King, Marjorie Byrne, Mar- garet Slosson, Alice Dudley Morey, Olive W. Morison, Mary Seymour, Benjamin R. Andrews, Alice Goddard Waldo, Helen R. Wilson, J. L. Rhees, Helen F. Armagnac and Laura Peckham. Do not understand us to say that all of the foregoing misspelled words. Some of them missed one auestion, but gave such excellent answers to others that we thought them entitled to mention. Neither are you to understand that we award prizes only for perfect answers, even to the spelling of words. Why, we have given first prizes to a solver who missed four questions out- right, while close competitors, also prize winners, misspelled several common words. We offer prizes for answers that come nearest being correct In all respects. Our next puzzle, to be published next week, is called “The Real Jack Sprat,” and the questions in it refer to geography exclusively. So get out your atlases and brush the dust off them. Prizes are mailed as soon as this announcement has had time to reach all of the solvers. ANSWERS TO THE QUESTIONS. 1. A part of Ireland, including Dublin, Meath, Carlow, Kilkenny and Louth.—Cham= bers' Encyclopaedia. 2. Ancient lake-dwellings in Ireland and Scotland, in which are found articles of various kinds,from the rudest flint implements to highly finished ornaments of gold. They are of earlier date than the lake dwellings of Switzerland.—Chambers' Encyclopaedia. 3. At one time a small division of York- shire, England, but since incorporated with the West Riding.—Chambers' Encyclopaedia. 4. The letter A is the captain. The alphabet is the company. 5. Originally a portrait in black, showing the profile as cast by a candle on a sheet of paper; hence any opaque portrait, design or image in profile. The French minister of finance in 1759 inaugurated numerous re- forms and strict economy. Coats, dresses, ete., were named for hin nd to this day in France and continental countries the old- fashioned profile is called a la silhouette."”- Carlyle (“Frederick the G vol. vil., p. 189, 6. Don Quixote do la Maucha, the hero of Cervantes' novel, is o called by Sancho Panza, his squire, 7. A ‘‘Hoghan Moghan” or mock mighti- ness, like the mayor of Garratt, or the king of the Cannibal islands. “The mighty To ttim Sent to our elders an env ete, Butler's Hudibras. 8. The answer on which this question was based is Frederick the Great and Marshal Keith. Finding, however, that many famous persons are reported to have played chess with living figures, we accepted all answers given to this question, counting all correct 9."A king of Corinth, noted for his avarice and fraud. He was punished in the infernal reglons by having to roll uphill a huge stone, which always rolled down again as soon as it reached the top.—Pope. 10. The representative of chastit She was the daughter and heiress of King Ry- ice of Wales, and her legend forms the hird book of the Facry Queen, by Spenser. 1L A sort of telescope, sLowing one what ever ho might desire to see. (“Ahmed and Paribanow.”) 12, Folding bed 18, Come all who love the game of che Come forward bishop, squire, and knfght Your King and queen would have you suess This most perplexing puzzle right. Here on the try y and g you astle's pleasant lawn, fortune if you choose; your goods tn pawn, fine i you should lose. 14, Indian graduate of Harvard, 1665 16. A gilded sculpture, originally on front of an edifice on the Rue Buad the in Quebec. It re sents the figure of & couch ant dog, gnawing the thigh bone of a man, beneath which is an inscription beginning “Iam a dog that gnaws his bone."” It s supposed to commemorate some tragedy, but the stories about it are more legendary than historical. The slab is now on the front of the postoffice in Quebec. (See also Kirby's romance, Le Chien d'Or. 16, A human form without a soul, con- Atructed by a student named Frankensteln out of the fragments of bodies picked from church yards and dissecting rooms. The monster had muscular strength, animal pas- slons and uctive life, but “no breath of di- vinity.” It was most powerful for evil, and belng conscious of its own defects and de- formities, sought with persistency to inflict retribution on the young student who had called it into belng.—Mrs. Shelley. 17. Lorna Doone's little handmaid. (See Lorna Doone: a Romance of Exmoor, by R D. Blackmore.) 18. Wheel, heel, eel. Share, har 20. Bishop B course of empire takes wrote an epigraph in his United States” which reads star of takes its way ar oy “Westward the its way.” Bancroft History of the Westward the sald, 21 iington was in want of am munition, he called a council of of but no practical suggestion could be offered. *“We must consult Brother Jonathan,” said the general, meaning Jonathan Trumbull, the elder, governor of ( ccticut. This was done, and the difficulty was remedied. To consult Brother Jonathan then became a set phrase, and Brother Jonathan grew to be the John Ball of the United States. Many gave only the statement that Brother Jonathan ludicreusly typifics the Amer.cin people, This failed to answer the question. (Se Bartlett's Dictionary of Americanisms.) 22, Franeis Abbott 23. Old Floyd Ireson, for his hard heart, was tarred and feathered and carried in a t by the women of Marblchead. (See kipper Ireson’s Ride,” by J. G. Whittier.) 24. A member of the radical section of the he name was given in allusion to an fncident which occurred at a tumultuous meeting of the demo tic party in Tammany Hall, New Yorlk, in 1835, when the radical faction, after their opponents had turned off the gas, relighted the room with candles by the aid of locofoco matches.- Houghton. 25. A member of the more prog the two factions into which the d party in the state of New York was long di vided. (In reference to the story of a farmer who burned his barn to get rid of the rats.) 26. Great hoax_conceived by G. Hull of Binghamton, N. Y. It was the outgrowth of a controversy, held in 1866, between 1Tull and a_Mr. Turk, regarding the former existence of giants in the earth. Hull, in 1868, had a large slab of gypsum, weighing three and one-half tons, quarried in Towa, and shipped it to E. Burghardt, Chicago, who made the image, producing a huge giant weighing 3,720 pounds. It was shipped to Cardtf, N. Y., and lowered into the ground on the premises of Mr. Newell, a relative of Hull's. In 1859 Hull wrote Newell to “find the giant,” so two neighbors were engaged to sink a well, when, of course, tne glant was discovered, taken to be a pecrified prehistoric man by numerous scientitic men, and was exhibited as such for a short time, but erelong the fraud was made known to all. 27. Formerly in Windsor Forest, England. (See Shakespearc’s “‘Merry Wives of Wind- sor.”) 28. Modena, Italy. Samucl Rogers.) 2. The Turkish Empire. It was Nicholas of Russia who gave this name to the mori- bund empire.—Brewer. 30. A poisonous liquid much used in Italy in the seventeenth century by young wives who wanted to get rid of their husbands. It was fnvented by a woman named Tofani, who called it the manna of St. Nicholas of Bari, from the wide-spread notion that an democratic party, ressive of nocratic (See “‘Gimevra” by oil of miraculous efficacy flowed from the tomb of that saint. Chambers' Encyclo- pacdia 31. Seven Christian youths, who are said 1 themselves in a cavern near Ephesus_during the persecution under De- cius (A. D. 1) and to have fallen asleep there, not awaking till 200 or 300 years later, when Christianity had become the religion of the empire.—S. Baring Gould. 2. A bed twelve feet square and capable of holding twelve persons; assigned by tradition to the earl of Warwick, the king-maker.— Brewer. . A’ counterfeit coin of bad metal which passed current in Ireland for a half-penny in the reign of George L. Its intrinsic value was half a farthing. = Hence the phrase “would not care a rap,” implying something of no value.—Mary Thorn Carpenter. 34. The popular name for the compromise of 1850, advocated by Henry Clay. Among the chief provisions were a stringent fugi- tive- slave law, the admission of California as a state, the organization of Utah and New Mexico as territories under “squatter sover- eignty,” a payment to Texas, and the aboli- lition' of the slave trade in the District of Columbia.—Lossing. Many said: in which there are several provisions answer we did not regard sufficlent. 35. Farewell. LOCOMOTIVE POWER. Results of a Tes to have conce: * which erican and English motives. One of the most important investigations yet undertaken by an American railway has lately been completed by the New York, On- tario & Western railway in connection with the London & Northwestern railway of Eng- land. It had for an object nothing less than a critical, experimental determination of the actual advantages, if any, of an American train, made up of a few large cars, over an Anglish train of equal capacity, but made up of a greater number of smaller cars. The English test was made in July, the results were worked up and tabulated by the London & Northwestern engineers and forwarded to this country to be duplicated as nearly as possible by the New York, Ontario & West- ern, which has a division of almost exactly the same length as that of the English road. But while the length was the same, the other circumstances were quite different. The alignment of the English road was good and the grades low, while the Amer- fcan road abounds in abrupt changes of heavy grades and sharp cur A general comparison of the results, according to the Ralilroad Gazette, shows that the American locomotive hauled a slightly heavier train at a higher speed on a grade of 24.6 feet a mile, with 13.9 pounds pull at (he draw- bar per gross ton, while the English loco motive exerted a pull of 23.7, 14.4 and 128 pounds per gross ton on 16.2-foot grades at successive points of the line. The coal locomotive motlye, consumption of the American was 1.8 times that of the English loc while the water evaporated was as 1 to 1.4, and the total tractive work as 1 to 1.2, This was what might reasonably be expected The inferior coal used in the American loco motive would generate less steam than the better grade used b the English engine. There i no getting around the fact that the American train, which, far as weight and load were concerned, was a counter part of the English train, was hauled over an equal distance, at a higher rate of speed, through twice the vertical rise, over greater curvature, by an engine of about the same estimated capacity, and carrying twenty pounds more boiler prossure. Morcover, although more pounds of coal were burned by our locomotiy this coal was procured from the great clum heaps of the anthracite region at no other expense than screening loading and bhauling, and the actual cost of the fuel per trip was only §3.28, against $3.51 for the English train Madeline Lemaire, the well known ays that flowers and women r attention ever sin Mme French artist have occupled all of y she made first sketeh in their sunny rose garden down in her beloved Provence, Sk has gone from one to the other unceasingly, for sie finds a strange sympathy between the two tubjects, Concerning her art, she that she beats, In a measure, the same that day, of the sixties the present to the decad Beers does to tion Van hoth since deal with the fashions of & particular period. > S ——— ——— Arablan Nights [ A sample of our prices. Nothing but first clas sold. 2 burner Gasoline Stove ¢3.50. goods ANGood [cerBaRTETTEvey 50, 1 4 A Good Cream FIreezer A Good Lawn Mower. . 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