Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, October 22, 1893, Page 11

b a8 factory inspectors, or have made an - WOMAN'S CHAFF AND CHATTER Eoglish, French and American Women in the Bazars of Paris, HOW THE PARIS SHOP GIRLS DRESS SO WELL Mrs, Deocher's Advice to Young Hons Keopers—Kqnestricnne Rafofm-- Will Wed & Jap-Fem- inine Jottings. ‘“The American woman makes one feol, more than any other type, the wsthetics of tailoring. She wants not be clothed; she wants to be made vming. A gown to her is not a single creation; she looks at it in all its parts and understands it. She requires move than mere figure and has a very fine taste in tints. ““T'he French woman is much less satis- factory. As a rule she cares for noth- ing but fit. She is immonsely fond of her waist and a wrinkle there will put her in a passion. But as for shade, cording, braid or buttons, she has no taste of her own. She throws herself entirely on the tailor’s hands and takes what he gives without comment. When the American woman orders she wants to know just how much braid will be used and how much fur—just what cord ana how many yards—and she insists on secing and commenting on tho buttons, Now, one can dress up a stick and his practical eye may tell him that it is ressed as porfectly as it is possible for 8 stick to be, but at the sume time it is much more satisfactory, though perhaps more trouble, to suit a woman who waunts to know the why of everything. no matter how minute. »e Care does not_sit lightly on young shoulders, says Mrs. Beecher, and if our daughters marry after graduating, with very little instruction from the home college, they will of necessity find their first efforts at housekeeping dishearten- ing, but they may be well assured that time and & reasonable amount of patience will soon make the ‘‘crooked ways straight and the rough places #mooth.” A few weeks of extra time and thought st the beginning of their new life vill, if they faithfull it, teach them how to work methodically. 1t will of necces- sity be uphill work until this lesson has been mustered, but by perseverence and & little planning for each day’s work every step will be casier. Itis a very good iden, every ovening when all the Work is finished, to sit down and quietly lan the work for the next morning and or the whole of the next day as far as possible. Bring before your mind just what ought, what must, bo done and fix the mode and time of doing it distinctly. While dressing the next morning re- view the last night’s plan, that all through the day it may be like a map, spread out before your eyes. Tobe sure, many things may occur thatno fore- sight could provide for—sickness, unex- pocted company, or imux'ru\nionu past our control—but it fs hardly possible hatanything will wholly derange a well and carefully adjueted plan for the day's duties. Many of our young housekeepers are discouraged and repining because they have not been taught before marriage to work methodically. Nothing can lighten labor like method and regu- larity. ~ Let this lesson be well under- stood and faithfully practiced, and there are but very few that cannot find leisure for a little reading and some recreation, certainly all they need if ina position where the roughest and hardest work can, undor suitable supervision, be left 1o a servant. * " A pretty young Salem, Mass., girl has recently become engaged to a native of Japan, and intends so far to make his poople Ler people and his ways her ways that their future home in Salem is to built and furnished in Japanese style. The building materials have all been shipped from Japan, and by the time the honse is ready for them, avt tiles, por- tiores, wall paper, wood carvings, mat- tings, rugs and raro pottery will hayve arrived to fill it. The vestibule is to be paved with art tiles, its walls hung with stamped leather, and it will be reached by a portal lighted by quecr little win- dows like those in the Buddhist temple. There will be no doors at all except in the kitchen, but instead open archways formed of beautifuly arved panels. The chief characteristic of a real Japsnese room is its bareness, eince i contains no furniture in our sense of the word, but this Japanese-American dwell- fog will be so richly furnished with cabinets, screens, curios and hangings that the absence of the customary chairs and tables will not be felt as a lack. Upstairs the sleeping rooms will be fur- nished i comfortable American style, “For,” says tho pretty bride-elect, “en- thusiastic as I am over everything Japanese, I do not intend to sit on the floor in my own house!” e Some one has said somewhere that the mania to learn everything, from clear etarching to political economy, causes women to break down long before their time. This sontiment was at one time uncomfortably true, but at the present we feel that the most hopeful presage of excellence in woman’s work and the safeguard of her powers, mental and physical, is that she is loarning to spe- THE OMAHA DAILY BEE: who knows that her bang is straighten- ing out in the midsbof trying circum- stances. » " 1t is & hint that comes from a woman recently returned from a considerable residence in one of the German art cities, that the closest inquiries should be made, before taking lodgings or apartinents, into the cleanliness of the beds and furnishings. “In some of the most attractive-ap- pearing and appavently faultless places,” snys, “we have been fairly driven out after a short stay, forfeiting the rent rather than undertake to accept the con- ditions. At last we put the question bluntly every time, expressly stating that if on trial the apartment was found to be infested wo skould claim the right to move at once. This traveler's experience may have been exceptional; it is at Jeast actual and s such, perhaps, is & note of warn- ing. P A representative woman who has adopted the habit of cross riding, or rid- ing astride the horse, declares it to be the only safe and satisfactory way to ride, and she believes that the old way will be entirely superseded by the new. “Who would have believed a few years ago,” she argues, ‘‘that women would ride bicycles in our city streets?” Yet now a woman on a safety does not attract a second glance.” She explains logically enough the difference between the insccure seat, the distorted spine and compressed chest of the old method and the sturdy, straightforward, even balunce of the new, and she asks per- tinently: ‘‘After all, whatis there in the least dogree shocking or immodest about it? The curves of the figure are thrown into far less prominence and the habit is easily managed by wearing a divided skirt under an ordinavy viding skirt open down the back so that it falls gracefully on both sides of the horse. The coat can of course be made in the most conventional style if one wishes, and equestrienne legg should al- ways form a part of any riding costume.” Fashionable makers of riding habits say, however, that they make almost none for the new way of riding,and see nosigns of such an innovation, although it pre- vails to some small extent in England and in our western states. ; *"x The English woman? Ah, that's an- other thing. The American woman comes to Paris to choose clothes; the English woman to buy them The latter has probably been brought up on a single color--at least, she comes into the place with a very definite idea of what she wants, says the Paris correspondent of the Philadelphia Times. If we ven- ture to offer a suggestion that some- thing else would perhaps become her equally as well she says very frigidly: *1 think I am perfectly able to judge for myself, sir!” As for the American woman, she has plenty of mind of her own. She knows very well what she wants, and what she aoes not like, and she says so very plainly, too. Any amount of talking wouldn’t make her take a shade she thinks not pretty, but she is not bull- headed.about it She is open to convie- tion, and does not cut off a well-meant criticism by any iciness. Then, too, the American woman has some appreciation. If a gown suits her, she says 50, and just as emphatically as she tells you she dislikes another. Now, o costumer likes this. Money is what he works - for, but a little appreciation with it is a good thing. In a large indi- vidual order—particularly tor a person of more than ordinary consequence— every one who works over the material, from the cutter on up to the man who puts on the last button or bitof fur, takes a personal interest in his work, and he likes to have it appreciated. It is more satisfactory to succeed with a costume of a woman who can say‘Thank you!” or “How perfectly lovely!” That's the American way! The English woman is not at all backward in finding fault. In fact, she often seems to consider it a part of the process and does so indiscriminately. She receives her gowns always with an 1t is satisfactory, but—"and then fol- lows the ¢ sm. But she never praises. Very often she brings her hus- band with her and refers a question to his taste. Catch an American woman doing that! No, indeed; if she brings-her husband at all, she leaves him with a newspaper in the waiting room and has her say herself. * P French women' of fashionable Paris spent a great deal of money on street dresses, sums which would make even prodigal New Yorkers stare. It is not s0 much on the value of the materials used as in the number of costumes. This arises in part from the French love of variety and change, and in part from the dislike to be seen often in the same gown. Sometimes the French woman overreaches her purse limit and finds her bill so large that she cannot pay it herselfl and is afraid to tell her husband. Then we have to wuit while she stints herself of pin money. The reason why c')m{mrunvuly poor women o1 Paris are able to dress so fashionably lies in the large number of costumes ordered every seuson by the fashionable Parisienne. At theend of the season the costumes ave very far from worn, and your ultra-fashionable woman here would mnot be seen in clothes a season old, so she sells them, sometimes for a song. There are large numbers o. private agents who buy these and sell them again to smaller dealers, Some of them are altered, as far as possible, into cialize instead of wasting herself in a dozen different directions. One of the many beneficent effects of the World's fair of '03 is that it has accentuated this specialization of work by placing women in chavge of exhibits and upon commit- tees for which their individual training has fitted them. When women who manage farms of their own were put upon juries in the agricultural depart- ment, and when those who have acted especial study of various textiles, food preparations and decorative objects, wore called to be judges in the manufactures department; and when such scholars and workers as Miss Alice C. Fletcher, Mrs, Zelia Nuttall and Mrs, Corneliug Stevenson were invited to serve in the departments of ethnology and _archmology; or when .. Miss Emily Sartain, an artist by inheri ance and training, Mrs. Mary Halleck Foote and Mrs. Cand; Wheeler were placed upon the fine arts jury, one not only feels that these selections have been wisely made, but that, in these and other instances, epecialization in woman's work has bean given recogni- tion ana unuuuruguu:cm. ' Some one who knows her well has said that the reason Mrs. Potter Palmer al- ways carries herself so serenely through the tumultuous meetings of the woman commissioners is that she is always con- scions of being perfectly dressed. It is one of the ways of women. Many a woman bas made her toilet, like Marie Antoinette, to go bravely through the supreme hour of her life, and trivmphed. Many & woi has fortified herself for » disagreeab® duty or an embarvassing tion with a bunch of rosesin her t. Life is never altogether a failure a zood imitation of tho prevailing style, and bring a fairly good price av ques- tionable dealers’” houses. Others are soldd by second rate dealers in the less fashionable quarters of the city and their prices bring them within the veach of the shop girl of the Place Vendome or the brasserie girl of the Latin Quar- ter. This reselling of costumes has much to do with the chic toilets of Paris’ poorer women. So fashionable Paris e T T R AR The universal taste which this fosters rencts, of course, upon the women higher in the social scale, and furnishes an ad- ditional spur to their leaders to keep up their costumes the ne plus uitra of rumg- nine fashion. Paris is the center of the world of tasfe, amd will remain so for & good many years yet. 1t is its cosmo- politan chavacter whith makes it die- tator, and it shows less probability every season of losing the prestige held for so many centuries. filions ¥e oces. Mrs, Leland Stanford has given over $50,000 to the Kindergarten association of San Francisco, There are 6,335 postmistresses under the United States government, the largest number in _any one state, 463, being in Pennsylvania, and one in Alaska. The census returns from Albany show that there are 8,393 workingwomen in the capital city., And among these are one lawyer, one pawnbroker, forty-nine saloon keepers and seven doctors. Miss Psuncefote, daughter of the British ambassador, has decided artis- tic talent, Her particular enthusiasm is for miniature unlntin g,s0me very credit- able specimens of which adorn her desk in the crimson drawing room of the eu- $0 the woman who knows her bonnet is And there is no consolation 0 in the bope of heaven to the oue bassy. | & pillow sixteen inches square, and when they are with her. Even the little girls of the duke of Connaught wear plaid kilts, Scotch caps and short jack- ots when they are under the eye of their royal grandmamma. Before the dlover blossoms are all gone gather enough to make a little cushion, and dry them in the sun. Fill cover it with India silk in pale green embroidered with clover blossoms and the leaves, An interesting fact in connection with the life of Maria Mitchell of beloved memory is that she was never able to overcome her fear and dread of light- ning. The heavens were to her as an open hook, yet this of their marvels was always awful and mysterious to her, The Archduchess Rainier possesees some pearls of unusual beauty, but which some time ago ‘showed signs of losing their brilliancy. = They were what the experts call ““ill,” and as the only cure the pearls will have to bo again submerged in their original ele- ment and remain in the sea for several years. How felt has been the want that the woman's apartment house, for which Mrs. Candace Wheeler and Miss Janet Lewis have labored unceasingly, is going to supply, may be gathered from the statement that over 100 applications are already filed for the 140 rooms and apartments that the building will afford. The French dolls in the Women's building at Chicago include a case rep- resenting historical characters—Mar- guerite of Navarre, the fair Gabriel, Marie Antoinette, Josephine, Anne of Austria, the Marquise de Montespan and many other famous personages dressed in their authentic costumes: Two girls living in a coal mining vil- lage of Pennsylvania, and who were un- able to secure employment of any sort, disguised themselves as boys and in that attire obtained work in one of the collieries. Their sex was not discov- ered for some weeks after, when, not- withstanding thew entreaties, they were immediately discharged and sent home. “I had to learnof my daughter's ry,” said Mrs. U. S’ Grant in un 1n- in Chicago, ‘through the n press.” The stories about Mrs. Sartoris' unhappy domestic life are, according to her mother, in a frank statement of which the sentence quoted is the prelude, without foundation in fact. ¢ Reforring to the ‘‘broken sugar candy,” recently spokez of in these col- umns as being served at an English table to sweeten toa and coffee, a corre- synndcnt writes of her experience trav- eling in Japan. ‘‘At many places,” she says, “with my cup of tea a large, rough piece of sugar would be handed to me, and after a sip of tea a nibble at the sugar was the proper thing. Farhion Notes. A new tea cozy is an elephant of white felt, with trappings of red. Valkyrie wings in plain or shaded colors have taken the shops by storm. New changeable dress goods show magenta or beet-root red prominently. For autumn riding and driving, buck- skin and dogskin gauntlets are popular. Fur roses and other flowerslook quite as artistic as they could bo expected to. Satin is one of the favorite trimmings for very light colored and white wool materials, A great deal Irish-point and various antique laces are worn with materials of all sorts. The newest importations of fancy gal- loon show some elaborate and very ele- gant designs. Papers imitating stuffs of all kinds are popular. French canvas and burlaps are perfectly reproduced. Ihe fichu cape with long ends falling over the front of the skirt is one of the features of autumn costumes. Shoulder capes for autumn are made with double fronts in Russiun style and enormously full plaited collars. Yellow and black is one of the most perfect combinations for brunettes, especially those with but little color. Pink and very light green felt hats with dark velvet trimmings and narrow fur bands and coils are dressy, iavorites in millinery. Decorated leather ana canvas in de- signs of griffins, rampant blue dragons on blue grounds, are fine with dark oak wainscoating in hall and library. Mink fur is more in vogue than ever this year and many pretty effects are produced by arvanging the furs in such a way as to form shaded brown stripes. Feather bonnets, hats, turbans and elaborate trimmings ave imported in great variety. Some of these are so ultra elaborate that they reach the verge of absurdity. The drawing room ceiling, should not be papered, but a canvas medallion painted by an artist is appled with stucco or “compo” framing to the center of the ivory-tinted ground. A novelty in the arrangement of sashes for children is shown in a dress in which the sash is put in at the froat of the sleeve seams. The sash is brought around under the arms and tied ina loose bow at the back. One of the handsomest dresses of the season is of black armure with lemon- yellow trimmings. The garniture ma- leriul is a brocade and gold passemen- terie intermixed. The dress is worn by a tall and stylish brunette. Heavy silk cord passementeries in French or Russian military designs ap- pear on beautiful winter coats of cloth made by Parisian tailors, and with these ave associated dark furs in marten, otter, fox and astrakhan, The best halls' are usually hung in stuff instead of paper. Morris tapestry with unearthly dragons in yellow, blue and green are most admived. Hall floors are of polished wood carved with rugs and never carpeted, As fantistic a’ design as any rational mind well could conceive is a roll of fur coiled round and round, like a coil of hair, and stuck all over with jet span- gles, Two bird claws of jet beadwork arve provided for the nondeseript crea- tion, —— We couldnot improve the quality if paid double the price. DeWitt's Witch Hazel Salve is the best salve that experience can produce, or thut money can buy. ey EDUCATIONAL, The coffers of the Chicago university re- ceived nearly $400,000 io cash donations one day recently. Williams _college in Massachusetts and Cornell university in New York are celebrat- ing auniversaries nearly simultaneously. Williams college is a century old. Cornéll umversity has existed but one-fourth as long. ‘The general synod of the Church of Eng- land iu Canada has adopted & resolution de- claring religious teaching in the public schools an_absclute necessity in order to ful- Al the true purpose of education ot to con- serve the highest interest of the nation. “The first gymuasium or collego for women in Germany was opened u fow weeks ago— September 16—in Carlsrub, the fan-shaped capital of the grand duchy of Baden. The course of instruction is precisely the same as in the gymuasia for boys and young men. six years are necessary to complete it. Trousers! Non-residents please address our mail order department. For $2000 we will make to your order a s — For $2500 choice of imported cheviots, == A2 SUNDAY, OCTOBER 22, 1893—SIXTEEN PAGES. as usual. “Imitation is the Sincerest Flattery.” We Admittedly Do the Largest and the Best Tailoring Business in the World. It has not come to us by accident, it's the result of twenty-five years of schooling in tailoring—on a broad guage plan—peculiarly our own. We study how to make the best possible clothes, for the least money, To give you the most, and to get your trade the quickest, is the plan that has brought us to our present position. These are Stringent Times! You feel that you cannot afford to pay $48 or $80 for your winter suit, and yet you wish to appear as dressy Let Nicoll solve this problem for you—(they have solved it for many of your friends.) Gommel’lClng tomOFPOW—and during the week——we offer prices— that will anchor your trade to us in the future. plendid and serviceable business suit. (You saw these goods last week at $2B and $27.) silk mixtures, English worsteds, etc. (We refused $80 for these goods, a short time ago.) For $302—We11, this line is a “stunner’——we feel proud in showing it. (You can’t duplicate ’em for less than $40 anywhere.) A splendid line of trousering—for business or office wear—at $5.00. Those we offer at $5 to $8 will tempt you to buy two pair, Is it necessary to urge you to be prompt in placing your order—--before best patterns are gone? There’ll be a hole in the stock by Monday night, at these prices. (You'll buy a pair of these in addition to your suit.) The prices in our window are intzresting. NICOLL ™= TAILOR s%e. lists show 503,88 male pupils enrolled and 490,540 female pupils, the average lllt?nd- ance being 722,196, a percentage of 84 The aggregate of taxes levied for school and building purposes outside of Philadelphia is 1,770,101, which is exclusive of the state appropriation. The receipts from taxes and all sources, except the state appropriation, amount to $10,: which sum does not in- cludo Philadelphia, and the total rec the state are $17,413,301. The expenditures were $10,410,07¢ L RELIGIOUS. Protestant Episcopal missionary | will be held in Chicago October Twelve hundred new Christian Endeavor societies have been organized since the con- vention last July. A firm in Palestine 1s engaged in supply- ing water from the river Joraan tochurches. It is put up in sealed bottles and sold by the case. = New York and Pennsylvania Lutherans will celebrate the 410th anniyersary of the birth of Martin Luther. The celebration occurs November 10. On Maui, one of tho Hawaiian islands, there is a Christian Endcavor society with about twenty-five active members. Some of them are obliged to travel seven miles to the meeting, but the attendance is excellent. The bible has been translated into 187 of the leading lan guages which are spokea ny about 600,000,000 people. Added to these figures those of the minor tongues itis a fair estimate that the bible is now acces- sible to fully 1,000,000,000 souls. Umbrella stealing is said to be of frequent occurrence in St. Paul's cathedral in London, 15 has actually been found necessary to post up a notice warning peoplo against uwmbrella thieves, and the presence of a detective in the cathedrai has been found desiraole. Most Rev. William J. Walsh, D.D,, arch- ishop of Dublin, who was present at the celebration of the silver jubilee of Cardinal Gibbons last week, is one of the most learned ecclesiastics in the Irish church. As a learned musician he {8 also noted. “The editor of a southern religious paper recently cobied an article from another re- ligious paper, and then remarked: “If wo were a calf we would spy ‘Bah’ in reply to this.” On the following week the other edi- tor remarked: ‘“‘Our good brother’s reply to our article was ‘Bahj’ the reader can draw his own conclusion.” | The year book of the Young Men's Chris- tian associations of North America for 1803 has been issued. The number of associations is now 1480, with an aggrogate membership of 245,800, ‘These assqoiations own buildings valued at $12,501,000.° ‘Their total net prop- erty is valued at $14,208,043—more than £1,500,000 more than the year before, In Protestant Episcopal circles there is much discussion of tne remarkable sermon preached by Bishop Whippleat the consecra- tion of Bishop Lawrefce of Massachusetts. It was an eloquent s for church unity, and the main thought set forth was that the church must make her appeal to men in her Master's spirit of loving sympathy, of pity, tendernes, helpfulness, charity, must study 1o know men as they are in daily life and then inte human lives by the door of the human heart. “The angelus, or bell rung about 6 o'clock in the Catholic churches of this country, is a survival of the curfew bell. In many parts of Europe it is known as the “prayer bell.” Pope John XXII1, about 1410, fearing deposi- tion at the hands of his people, among whom he was unpopular, ordered all Christian peo- ple to repeat three Aves when the curfew rang to avert the misfortune. He was after- wards deposed, but the custum continued. Phe noonday bell was first instituted by Pove Calixtus I1L, about 1455, at a time when the contemporaneous iuvasions of Ku- There are now 24,012 schools in the state Queen Victorla insists on her small grendsons wearing Highland dress of Penusylvania, with 8,245 male and 17,718 femalo teachers au charge. The attendance rope by the Turks and the appearance of a reat comet seemed 1o threaten the whole Z:nrumn world with extermination, == MME. M. YALE, The World's First Comploxion Specialist, PIONEER AND CREATOR OF BEAUTY CULTURE. L‘\'l)l)l!filfil) I e allowed a pat . Yale's own beuuty will neve At 40 ‘she is as fresh and lovely s any of 18, are the only Complexion Remedies Alr, Beauty Free for One Week. Ladies desirous of becoming beantiful by seien- tific means, without the aid of cosmetics, ure 1 10 visit M for themse ing the old Vating neredible, but will prove all that ned to | on of any one desirous of having thelr youth restored or their beauty cultivated, LAST CHANCE T0 GEil‘ SKIN FO0D FREE Ladies buying Comy of M, Yale Wil 1 Skin Food for re age. This will ever be given away fre week, Cut coupon out. FROMOMAHA BEE. g, | mhis coupon_entities bearer to a sar off 24 | ale's Famous Skin Food for re. g Imoving wr g |will be ne % |made of some @ & Jedy tn orde @ o |8 very expensive, £ & |andgroo. “This ts ot %% |icwl e be g S 2 |nesicot petting a jar Free L Jiown ordering this week will have i jar g8 [aut diom ¥ree."GoOD FOR ONE WEEK] A CUT THIS COUPON OUT, La Frecklas 1t matters not if Freckles have been from youth t0 0ld age, La Freckla will remove the most stub- born case i & few days. Leaves the ful, clear and free from @ bl Excelsioy Haiy Tonics The only remedy in the story of the world gray halr back to s original color lops it falling in 24 hours; creates a Vil Price per bottle; 6 for $5. Guide to Beauty 1) women. Ladios nts 10 Day POBLAKE. 16 of remedies used by Mme, Yale for cultivating beauty, Ladles use them success- fully at home. writing for it please send Send for pr or your letter riified check or Mme. M. Yale, Beauty and Complexion Speclalist, ROOM 601, KARBACH BLOCK., Cor. 156th and Douglas sts., Omaha, Neb. P, 8.—Madame Yale's remedics’ are sold by all Oret-class drugglets SIEARN§ FngI'AI' LAND COMPANY, Dealer in Oregon snd Washington lands, Developed fruit orchards a specialty, The Best Fruit Land on Earth in tracts to suit. il Aur The original circulating and ventilating Base Burner Gives more heat, uses less fuel than anystove made, We will furnish you the proof of this if you care to investigate. Have you seen our Acorn Radiator and our Acorn Oak? They are the best soft coa stoves made, 0il Heaters with wire gauze odorless burners. B 06N HUSSIE - 2497 Cuming St. b Tel. 1116, Homesteads on better terms than government For full particulars address THE STEARNS FRUIT LAND COMPANY, 107 FIRST STREET. PORTLAND, OREGON. @) SOMME ILTAUR THE MERCANTILE CIGAR, BETTER THAN EVERI Made of the flest quality of Havans Tobacco thoteun bo bought, Equalin every respect to the Nowt bmworte. iars: Masufactered by ¥, B KJCE MERCAWLILE CI\GAR ¥ LQTOR A A.HOSPE Jr 1513 DOUGLAZSTREET “KIMBALL PIANO 2