Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, August 6, 1893, Page 10

THE OMAHA DAILY BEE: SUNDAY, AUGUST 6 1893--SIXTE MAIDOR MISTRESS T0 BLAME? Disoussion of Both Bides of the Domestio Rervico Question. HOUSEKEEPING THE BEST JOB IN OMAHA What Special Colors Indioate—An O1d Bach- elor's Opinion—Beware of Fads—Fash- ton, Faney and Fino Arts for the Ladies. The never ending, always irritating, eeemingly unsolvable question of how to obtain and retain a good servant is one in which all women are interested, all women who keep house at least. It is such a nuisance that it has come to be a matter of debate with many ladies if it is not better to quit trying to bhave a home snd fall back om the boarding house hades. In the interesting and {nstructive sta- tisties presented by Helen Campbell in her notable artioles on “Women Wage Earners,” now being published in one of our leading ||m¥uz|nm, it is shown by replies of girls from nearly every state in the union that it is not because of the social ostracism or anything of the sort that girls prefer to work harder for less pay in any other kind of employment than housowork, but because of the longer hours and lessened liborty of do- mestic service. After all this is Amer- jca. The hours are in most cases about fourteen and the liberties non est. Of pourse if people keep late hours the servant must ulso be on hand to the end of the late hours to attend to the duties which must be done and which only she ean do. This'is to some extent unavoid- able and is all rightif a contract is made to that effect when the servant is em- ployed. The trouble is women seem to think that if they succeed in getting an extrahour's work out of aservantthey are just 8o much ahoad. Therc isa constant strife botween mistress and maid and the mistress forgets her poshlunn(mner than the servant. For instance, & woman will engage another to come one day in the weok to wash. Perhaps the woman isastrong German and in the summer time espccially she prefers to get at hor work early in the morning, about 5 o'clock, thus putting in about half a day before the regular legal day begins. Does the woman who hires her remem- ber this in the evening? Notshe. Itis easy to find cleaning and scrubbing enough to keep her busy until 5 o'olock, and if not she can get in a little ironing to get in a full day. Or if the lady of the house does consider the washer- woman's day’s work donc when the washing is on the line and the cleaning of floors finished she expects the woman to consider it a great fayor and she poses as a saint in human form if it is not quite b o'clock. It is just such gross injustices as these which are at the bot- tom of all the trouble in the employment of servants and have made it practically impossible for a woman to obtain efficient help and has made American housekeep- ing the worst kind of slavery. f you are o working woman and em- loyed by a man, how does he treat you? })1 he wants any extra work done he asks it asa favor, in most instances expect- ing, of course, to pay extra for it. And then when your work is done his claim onyouisatan end. A woman, on the contrary, thinks she has a mortgage on the body and soul of every servant con- nected with her establishment. Now, it is really no one's business what a girl @oes when her work is done and a full day has been put in, even if she goes to any extreme of evil, so long as she keoeps ‘in bounds of the law. At the same time any thinking woman will look after a irl who is less intelligent=and has had less experience than herself, and will always advise her for good, and it would no doubt be her duty to discharge her if the girl refused to heed. But it all depends on the spirit in which it is done. t seems to the writer as if the cant and slush of treating a servant as an equal and all that is merest rot. What the girl wants and should have is recog- nition as a good servant, if she is one, acd an _appreciation of her efforts as such. The sorvant girl has her own friends and associates and it is to them she looks for pleasure and happiness in a social way. In fact it would bore her tremendously to be obliged to undergo one-half of the conventionalities and re- straints to which her mistress is con- stantly subjected. She does not under- stand them and don’t want anything of the kind in hers, in which she shows herself to be the more sensible of the two. If all women overywhere were to establish a certain number of hours as a day and have it undorstood when the eontract was mado just how wany hours aach day the girl was to work and what work she must do, and then keep the contract, in the -nirn and the letter her- self; the girl would gladly keep it on her part. Insist on first-class work and the servant will be first-class, especially if she receives first-class pay. A few years ago any girl who could write a little shorthand and hammer a typewriter could get a job, even if she hu{ to wrestle hard with words of one syllable when it came to spelling. Men would not put up with' anything but good work, and now nnf' Eirl who ap- lies for a position of this kind must be shoroughly equipped or she knows she eannot hold the }ub, for there are plenty who are competont who will gladly take her place. What have women done under the same circumstances? They have wept and wailed and told their husbands or their neighbors what hard times they had with the last new serv- ant, gave her a good recommendation, discharged her and hired another just like her. If housekeepers would all insist on having only the best, and pay for it, the servant question will solve itself ia time. and a short time, too, It is money working people want and if they can get it by giving poor service they wiil not trouble themselves to make the serv- ice bettor. If they cannot. obtain em- floymum. unless they f;lva good service hey will do that. All servants' wages should be paid on the ratio of the uality of the work done in their par- aeulnr stations. Let an incompetont, impudent servant understand plainly that you will employ her if you can do 00 befter, but that you will only hor one-half as much as you woulcfi{ she would attend to her work and do her full duty in all respects. Then you do ours. Housework and especially cook- g s the bost job in Omaha today and ‘n competent woman can obtain a posi- tion in five minutes at her own price, In what other line of business is this true? What is to prevent hopsekeevers and servants, mistresses and maids from forming some sort of & league for mutual benefit and improvement in which the righte ef both sl nll.buoomtdoredv e ‘1 saw something in the paper the other day about the different kinds of women who wore different colors,” said the Vassar girl, over the dinner table, according to Jane Shore's veports in the columns of the New York Recorder, THand I ht it just about as mislead- hl:z a8 it is tO judge men by their neck- ties, about asked the bright “But ean't you tell somethin, men by !he(’r neckties?” wi in pink crepon. eflmt%lnk & man who will we: red necktio will wiite his name on the Washington monument or even carve !‘l.‘ on Grant's tomb if he can get a chance, said the lieutenant, “Oh, he wouldn't stop at a little thing like that. He'd murder his grandmother on small provocation,” added the real estate man. “No: [ don't think you've made a care- ful study of hith. He's not bloodthirsty. He's only weak-minded and vain." b/ soen men who wore neither weak-minded nor murderous wear red neckties at the seashore and on yacht- ing ¢ sions and they looked just stunaini put in the Vassar girl. “Oh, wnil. all sorts of pranks are ex- cused in the summor man justas they are in the summer girl. I've seen those men wear orange colored blazers, t00. DBut I wasn't referring to that but- terfly existence. 1 meant *men about town and at their work,"” said the lieu- tenant. “1 always think a man has a certain inborn love of daintiness and cleanliness who wears in summor those pretty light cotton ties with little sprigs and bars. T beliove he has considerable self-ro- spoct, t00,” said the woman in pink crepon, ““And I can't help thinking the man who always wears black four-in-hands is ui'thor very stingy or very self-deny- ing.” *Don’t you know they are very becom- ing to some men, especially those who are fair and florid? The knowing men, like the knowing women, wear what they look best in,” observed the re- ligious editor. **Well, I never supposed men studied their points that way,” said the woman in whlw, with an innocent stare. “They = do, though, ovory time,” answered the editor, with convincing emphasis. **A man who wears a bright blue tie— that light, brilliant blue, you know— always soems to.me to have something feminine in his nature.” ‘A sort of Miss Nancy." ‘‘He's more likely to have f'ual come up from Podunk or Hayseedville, and to be viewing the elephant. He's a shin- ing mark for the bunco man every time,” pnt in the real estate cealer. “Aud perhaps his ‘girl' likes that color and went with him when he bought the tie. You can't judge s man by his tie when"— “He comes from the rural districts.” “Never,” added the law the airy fancies, erratic notions, and go-as-you- please styles which prevail in rustic so- ciety as to necities are never reliable data from which to generalize.” “1 think there's something in the colors a woman wears; I really do,” mused the lady in green surah. *‘Now, I never can have any confidence in a woman who is devoted to mauve. “Miss Mary Lo Vere, the actress, was telling me the other day, she had had a similar experience. ‘ivery woman I over knew who was addicted to mauve,’ she said, ‘was a waman not to be trusted,’ and she went on telling me ever so many instances.” I am very fond of the color,” said the aunt from Philadelphia. Horrors! Her gown was mauve. No one had noticed it before. **Oh, but you know elderly ladies al- ways wear that color—I—I didn't mean them,” stammered the woman in green. [ 'didn’t suppose that age was men- tioned, or was one of the necessary qual- ifications,” retorted the aunt, in an iced vinegar tone that made everybody shiver except the Vassar girl, who smiled ex- pansively behind her napkin to the real estate man, and seemed to be the only one who t.horoughly‘aujuyed ber salad. *"e If you have a taste for emulating the rainbow in gorgeousness, so far as may be, the glovers have .done all in their power this season to aid you. Gloves of every shade of grecn, from sea foam to apple, dangle before your eyes. Gloves of pink and gloves of purple lie in their cases, wooing the lover of color to buy them. Gloves of lemon color and gloves of orange are not lacking. There are gloves as thick with em- broidery as the old-fashioned christen- ing robe used to be. There are gloves that glitter with steel and gloves that gleam with bronze, There are gloves with silk of divers hues worked up the back. And these are all gloves that the self-respecting woman will avoid. It is almost unnecessary to remark that they are vulgar. Sometimes with a gown of green or heliotrope it is per- missible to wear gloves of exactly the same shade, although even then quite as good an effect could have been gained by carefully choosing a shade of gray or mode or tan that harmonized with the gown. Anything that makes the hand —even though it be a beautiful one— remarkable, is to be shunned. Put into your glove box some black suede gloves, which have a happy faculty of being appropriate with almost any costume. Put 1n some soft gray gloves and some modes color ones. Add a pair of heavily stitched reddish-brown glace kid to wear with your severely made dark walking suit, a couple of pairs of white washable kid ones for wear with your gingham dresses and a pair of driving gauntlets, and you will slways bo well and gorrectly gloved. e A sweet-faced maiden, who still has hopes, sat beside a bright little fellow in an elevated car the otherafternoon mak- ing friendly overtures to his pleased par- ents by complimenting the boy on his accomplishments. She had asked him a Kood many . questions about everything she could think of as they speeded to- ward Harlem, To these the little chap had replied with frank soriousness pecu- liar to children. S0 you are going to the park this af- ternoon? Do you love the park?" “*Oh, yes,” he replied; then added after @ pause, ‘‘but papa don’t like it.” **No? And why don't he like it?” “I—I—papa says it bores him, and he don’t like it." People in the vicinity smiled at the father’s exponse, and the maiden lady ap- peared to be greatly amused. The child saw this and followed it up: ‘apa didn’t want to come,but mamma said——" ™ ‘What mamma said was cut short by a vigorous shake from that individual, who had all along regavded the strange lady with d|up|prnvul and now frowned. The J)unengers ooked-disappointed. The maiden lntfly looked a trifle malicious, ‘‘How old are you?” she finally in- quired with her sweetest smile? “I'm H-~how old are you?” Mamma smiled this time and the gen- tlemen opposite elevated their news- papers to conceal their agitation. The maiden lady gazed out of the window thoughtfully, Maybe she was trying to figure it up, but she didn't answer the child’s question, o Beware of fads, They are always dangerous, but they are worse, like all disesses, in summer. Listen to the story of Anna’s disappointed hopes, as revealed by one of Anna's friends over a soclal glass of pineapple soda, She— the friend—was a very much tanned young person, and she had announced ly that she was in town for a day ouly. Her companion was pale and was evis entl{ln town for the season, but they both found Anna's fate amusing, ‘*You see,” said the tanned girl, “Aupna took up with modeling. She made little plaster or putty or some kind of statues of the cats, mnd the cats weren't able to express their resent. ment, 50 she ted. She did hep mother, and you know mothers never mind, though T should think Mrs. Brown would have objected to being made one broad, benevolent smile, when she's really protty and slender. Well, then Anna t{:muxin. she would try Mr. Martial. Everything had progressed boautifully between them until then. But when he saw himself with a cast _in his eye, an awfully hooked nose and a sort of Mephistophelean leer, ho was & littlo startled. h sked her in pained tones if he really looked like that, and Anna had got so puffed up by that time that she told him stiffly that she had re- produced his face as it seemed to her. S0 he went away with his $3,000,000, and now Anna is modeling the consumptive clorgyman who's there for his health.” * S0 far this summor the Now York girl has faithfully followed tho fashions of her brother.” She wears tho vest and four-in-hand with easy grace, and it should be recorded to her overlasting crodit that she is learning to tie the latter with some skill. Her brother has evenod matters by wearing her “broad-brimmed sailor hat and by appearing in the most brilliantly colored shirts, The gentlemanly girl will be glad to know that the craze for masculine at- tire will continue into the fall. The young lady in the ulster is mnot yot a reality, but the garment has been made and .a cortain New York girl is considering it. It isa copy of one worn by hér English cousin. There is no apparent difference between it and the one which every man owns, if he can afford it. The hat is supposed tobe a fashionable walking hat, but you couldn’t tell it from a man's derby if you tried. Shooting jackets ~and capes have also made their upg‘enmmm. Fashion alone knows why. They are strictly masculine, even to . their in- numerable pockets. e If a thing is good, say so! ‘Whether it be an entertainment, a glass of soda, & newly-made gown or & book. If you like it give praise where itcan be heard—or heard of—by the porson or persons who are responsible or it. Of course there are persons who can't digest praise. It makes them conceited, and at times overbearing, but they are of the empty- headed minority, who ought notto be considered. I went into a little country shop not long since on a vely warm day, lured by the sign, *‘Ice Cream.” . I didn’t expect much. . Something moist and cold would have satisfied me. A thin, worn, haggard-looking woman, carrying a young baby, came for my order. There was no choice. berry or nothing. She brought me the cream with one hand and clutched the child with the other. The cream was surprisingly good— home-made, with the real strawberries thickly strewn through it. ‘When I paid her I said: ““That's the best 1ce cream I've eaten this summer, and I'm from New York, t00."” You ought to have seen her face light It was straw- up. She absolutely looked ten years youuger. Thete was a little quaver in her voice as she replied: “I'm glad you like it. T used to make good ice cream when I was a girl, but I don’t get much time now.” And she sang to the babv as I left the shop. it Mr. —-, a newly made millionaire, T “has distinct social aspirations, and‘does not, Eu,rt-icularly care to own up to what he thinks is his somewhat plebeian line- age. Notwithstanding this little weak- ness, however, he was ever an. affection- ate and dutiful son to the plain old farmer and his wife, who toiled and mailed to give him his first start in the world. One of his inheritances, when they died, was a pair of portraits, doue by a rural painter—two pistures with no merit whatever from an artistic stand- point, but startlingly like as such daubs often’ are, with tho homely Sunday clothes of the wearers roalistically represented. Mr. —, weanwhile, had become quite celebrated for his art col- lection, and his first impulse on receiv- ing these staring and unmistakably bourgeois portraits was to relegate them to the garret. Filial affection, however, pleaded for the familiar old figures, and in tho midst of his per- plexity a brilliant idea struck him. He sent for Mr. A., a fumous artist, and in- duced him to dress up his old parents in the most aristocratic garments of their day, leaving the dear old faces intact, but even going to the length of arrang- ing the old lady’s hair.so that when the picture was hung in his magnificont hall she might have been taken for a duchess, 8o regal were her attire and surrovnd:ngs; wnile the old gentleman, fondling the head of the setter between his knees, looked like ‘‘a‘real old En- glish gontleman all of the olden timo.” “If T must become a martyr fo mid- summer days I want to suffer like a lady.” 'the speaker rocked back and forth in one corner of her town lpiazzs, looking in & trim little toilet as if she had dis- covered the secret. “‘Am not a bit warmer,”she continued, “not a bit, dressed up in a’'decent fitting pair of corsets and a regulation gown than T would be if I were trailing about in a sloppy wrapper minus corsets.' I always have on hand an interesting piece of work, and when this becomes a triflo wearisome a good book, so that the warmest days of the season hold but lit- tle terror for me. I don't incline to iced drinks, fans and the like. 1 believe that this kind of pampering is all nonsense.” Have you ever thought how much the mind has to do with your comfort and discomfort, espeecially during the warm- est days of the year? I know any number of women who actually send their pulses up to fever heat by simply talking over the warm weather situation. The very best rule to follow is to ignore the ?u stion, 1f asked if you are warm, doa little fibbing on your own account and see how the thermometer will fall. I have actuully become an object of envy to the summer rrumblers by merely carrying this rule nto practice whenever given an oppor- tunity, * " Concerning that much-talked-of enter- prise of the fair, the Woman’s Dormi- tory, of which much was hoped by women of slender purses, one who has person- ally experienced its advantages and dis- advantages speaks as follows: “The buils itself was exactly what was promised, rough, plain, but excel- lently planned and with irreproachable sanitary arrangements. There all praise ends. The management is in a state of ch and as there seoms to be a com- plete lack of system, you may imagine the discomfort and inconvenience that we and many others experienced. The matron who assigns the rooms appears to hold no communication whatever with the seoretary, who communicates with the stockholders. “‘Persons like ourselves, who had en- gaged rooms months abead, could find no possible accommodations of any sort. Any remonstrance at the office was met with 8 most unnecessary discourtesy, which was mad@the more conspicuous because it was W@ only incivility that we encounter le fa Chicago. Al together, the défri{tory is a most dismal and exasperating failure, and especially #0 when one rhmm the possibilities of the Flnn bad it been carried out by prac- tical, reliable pétatns,” rige) The causes ot ‘l‘é}'uuul intefloity aro like the stars in pi r, but seldom have they been so curfous in character as those enumerated, by a witness in a divoree court. Witness considers he was the injured party, as the petitféner was continually objecting to tha shave of his feet. (Laughter.) i He further said that when hs had his hair cut it was never done to please the petitioner. (Laughter.) She also used to say his upper lip did not suit her. She was continually blaming him for leaving out his h's in speaking. He was not so woll up in theological subjects as his wife, And there was sometimesa divergence of opinion when they were talking about the sermon they had heard. One is not surpriced after this to hear that one of the allegations against the respondent is that he had struck the pe- titioner with the Mothodist Magazine.— Waestminster G.azuug. s Dignity of demeanor marks the lady everywhere and though a very witty speech may have to be strangled at its birth it is better to do 80 than to indulge in a style of conversation that hurts those who are made the subject of it and also offends those. who may not be per- sonally interested in it. After a while the flippant young per- son will be avoided by those who know the quality of what she calls hor wit and the friendship of those worth culti- vating will be given to the girl who in overy way show a deference to those older than hersell and who in her com- munication with. those of her own age does not try to be fuuny at the oxpense of others. Life is too s%nrt to stand any such nonsense, and though she may think bersolf something above the aver- age in mentality the great majority of people will dub her flippant and imper- tinent and have no wish to continue hor acqnaintance. * » A travolor nowly returned mot in the oddest way an old woman on the wind- swept moor of Caithness, who, though not one of the 600, was the heroine of Balaklava. Her name is Elizabeth Coull. She is the wifo of John Coull, a sergqant of the Ninety-third Highland- ers. Kinglake tells her story in his history of the Crimean war. The Ningty-third, that ‘‘thin red line,” was drawn up to repel an attack of Russian cavalry. Tt was supported by a regi- ment of Turkish artillery, which, as they saw the Russians approaching. be- came panic stridien’and fled. As they ran between the:Highlanders and their camp, says Kinglake, they met a new and terrible foe.” Awoman came out of one of the Scottilh fents armed with a stick, and with :pitjloss_ invective beat every Turk within reach. The High- landers were drgwn up to receive charge, but, although staring’ death in the face, they weré 8o amused they burst into laughter. Th& Turks, confronted by this new foe, ¥alled. The Russians were repulsed, 'Thi Highlarders cov- ered themselvs) With glory and Mrs. Coull was known ‘Tir and wide as the woman who thrashed an army, Fashibh Note Date eating is tha Jatest friit craze. Among the new felt hats are.sailors of broad brim and lqw.orown., “yr Derby gloves of chamois havethe big- gest of red blttons and’are bound in red. Some of :thé ‘most. effective cotton %owna owe much. to the use of white raid. Violet and orris make the best com- bination for bureau and chiffonier sachets. "' & Paris is advocating flesh-colored suedo gloves for evening wear in place of the pure white 50 long worn. A correspondent writing from Paris is enthusiastic over a young girl’'s bed draped with white lace over rose-colored silk. The raw silk couch covers now offered very cheap in the shops make gay and useful portieres, and wear extremely well. A sleeve which is stamped with the approval of Felix is made of frills of three-inch lace [rom the shoulder to the waist. It is a tenet of the dressing of a Paris- ian woman to wear, first of all, a becom- ing gown, and, second, to make that a stylish one. Tt is now quite the fashion to make up the pretty semi-disphanous muslins and French lawns over light foundations of batiste or sateen. A new lamp shade, presumably in- tended for & bride, is of white silk, gar- landed with orange blossoms arranged in prodigal profusion. Pretty clusters of horsechestnut blos- soms appear upon ecru colored round hats of ‘‘nutmeg” braid, trimmed with russet brown velvet ribbon, A pretty necklacé for a young girl consists of daisies, the petals in silver, the hearts in gold, forming a flexible circle to fasten about the throat. Worth, it is said, abhors tailor made gowns, calling them ‘stable clothes,” and turning his artistic eye in another direction when they are in'view. Hammock chairs have long filled an acknowledged summer want, but in their newest shape, with movable canopy attached, they are more desirable than over. This season has brought a large im- portation of Japanese and Chineso cot- ton and jute rugs, and they can now be bought at at least sywe-third below their value, Spanish yellow''vélvet ribbon is a fashionable trimmidg for cream tinted nung’ veilings, crépons, clairettes and similar sheer wool fabrics for young ladies’ wear. - 101k A lovely summet ‘ribbon is of waved gauze, in cream ting, plain and half illumined by electfé “ blue, nile green and purplish pink, 5 stripes. It is eight inches wide,,, White duck hammock pillows em- broidered in some?” sketehy athletic de- sign, as tennis Fddjuets, goll clubs crossed, or & huntifig cap and whip, in colored flax are muglyin yogue. The dress parasdlswof the season are like small tents, :}d‘ although in most cases made of tullé¥'] or net, their large size and ug}? dles suggest the utilities rather than, the ornaments of dress, Mrs. Arthur Stannard (John Strange Winter) has founded an anti-crinoline league counting 11,000 members, And now the question before the league is: ‘‘What are we here for?”" For the crin- oline has never come. ‘The prettiest waists now made by the modistes, and turned out of such fac- tories as keep up with the changing styles, have & ¥ BEAIS BN sleoves that fall away from the shoulder 1ine of the armholes. Pink, yellow and pale blue India muslins, with tiny flowers scattered over their surfaces, are made A&over founda- tions of silk-looking batlstes of plain piok, blue or yellow and black velvet e | riboon bows, and ‘Quantities of ecru guipure lace are the most orations, Dressy bodices for day wear have cross seams low on the hips or around the waist line, attaching a circular or coat shaped piece curved to fit vory snugly, this about six inches deep and softly lined with silk. Frillod curtains, a frilled spread and a round bolster finished with big rosottes converts the plainest bed into a delightful object, and, when added to one of the popular white and gold sort, means a_very dream of girllike beauty and freshness. A collarette that is coming forward in cotton gowns and will be repeated in wool later on, isa three-quarter circlo, shaped to fit smoothly around tho shoulders and folded to points in front. It is effective in the stiff linen and in heavy cotton goods. Bosides the linen ducks, pigques and similar fashionable materials, the many sheor wool fabrics used for tailor custumes aro uncommonly elegant in tone and texture this season, and if artistically cat, which is essential, they are the perféction of summer wear. The parasol which is best wsuited to gingham and white outing suits is of Indian pongee in the original cream color. The handles are of carved burnt ivory, The rains may descend and the floods come, but they are as little affceted by them as are cotton um- brellas. With the new basket-plaited Eulalia coiffure a high Spanish comb is made usé of instead of one or twolong jewelled hair pins. The fop of the comb is set with Trish® brilliants and the comb is often set in sideways in the coquottish manner that is very becomimg to some women. A costume that did not present a “spread-eagle” aiv in spite of its colors was a gingham, with stripes an eighth of an inch wide' in red, pale blug and white. The skirt was made in three wide flounces, each edged with a narrow band of red ribbon. The bodico was made in surplice style with a bertha of the goods, also'trimmed with a band of red ribbon. Ata recent wedding the somewhat unusual array of nino ushers and nine bridesmaids assisted. Five of the brides- maids wore pale green and the four others a delicate shade of pink. Allhad short veils matching the hue of their gowns. They came down the aisle from the chancel to meet the bride, walking first two, then one alone, repeating the order-until ushers and maids were all in line. Sprigged lawns make possible morning dress. They come in white with tiny pink roscbuds, little clusters of blue forget-me-nots, slender vine effects in green, scattered yellow cowslips and - “‘everything that pretty been.” They are made with a simple, ruffled skirt, a surplice waist edged with narrow lace, full sleeves and a wide crushed belt of white silk, and are charming. The ne of freshn popular dec- the daintiest vest bonnets are new in a sense but not as marked novel- ties. They still appear in prircesse, ca- pote, fish wife poke and toque shapes, and are made of tulle, crepe lisse, or exquisitely wrought Indian tissues with laco garnitures and iridescent bead gimps and crowns to match. These bon- nets ‘represent foreign ‘‘dress” styles, the delicate rush bonnets and lace braids being relegated to a secondary though still very fashionable place. In & summer cottage recently seon quite the effective feature of every bed- room was the washstand splasher. A wide piece of cottage drapery, shirred on a slénder gilt rod and susponded by white ribbon bands, formed the back- ground of the toilet stand, falling to the floor and coming well ont on both sides. The protection of the delicato wallpaper was perfect, and the graceful banners imparted an airy effect that added much to the prettiness of the rooms. Among the importers' samples of new. silks for autumn appear a large variety of stripes of corded silk and velvet on very handsoine arrangements of color, the silk being, in most cases, of the lighter hue. Among the harmonies and contrasts are those of moss green velvet on silver blue, reseda on lilacand amber, a rich Venetian brown velvet stripe al- ternating with a silk one in rose pink shuding tosilver; another of dark pe- tunia with a sheeny stripe of almond changing to sea green. The predilection for gold millinory— crowns, edgings, galloons, ornaments, ete.—arises from the marked partiality of the duchess of York for it. ~ A lovely bonnet of cream white tulle, with-a Per- sian pearl-dotted crown of gold and pale green passementerie, has an aigrette of golden thistles and daisies with velvety brown hearts sot into a plaiting of airy lace, that gives the finishing touch to one of the prettiest bonnets for a rosy blonde that ever left the hands of a Par- isian milliner, A nice young bachelor confided the following comments to his neighbor at dinner the other evening: “Ido like a woman who sticks to one or two becom- ing dresses. Sheand her dress then be- como igentified with each other, and one gets a distinet idea of a girl in one’s mind. Butif she is oneday in blue, and another in ‘yellow, and the mnext in red, the individuality of the wearer is quite subservient to that of the gown, and it is just like looking at so many fashion plates or a kaleidoscope. e N Mrs. James Brown Potter will sail for Calcutta this month for a six months theatrical engagement in India, Two girls recently walked from Mus- kegon, Mich,, to Chicago. Another woman is walking from lgullm«, Tex. to Chicago. There seems to be no lack of openings for female medical practitioners in this country, for the Indian bureauannounces seventeen vacancies for women, An advanced school girl in Morrison, 111, was asked: “What are the carniv- erous animals of the tdrrid zone?” She replied: ““The equator, cow, horse, wolf and goat.” The *‘Henry Bergh Circle” of King's Daughters, composed of eight members, reports that last year it chloroformed 4,089 cats, 71 dogs, 6 wounded sparrows, 1 rabbit and 1’possum. An economy of waste is to throw the salt water left in the ice cream freezer over the weeds on the garden paths and the suds from the washtub around the roots of the young trees, Mrs, Jerusha Lusk, a Connecticut | eharcoal burner, lives in & sod hut, bnt that doesn't kill the home decorative in- stinet. So she has hung up things and is as cosy as you please, with a bookcase and a carpet. Mrs. Eva Wilder McGlasson, whose writings ave as delicate and artistic as the frostwork one finds on the winter window pane, confesses to her impossi- bility to' produce more than six short stories in & years' time. Mrs. Albert Barker, an English elo- entionist, is said to know as many pieces as there are dl(l in the yea e imi- tates many voices of nature, from the thrill of the canary to *‘the awe-inspir- ing howl of the hurricane.’ Cigarette smoking by three lady visitors in full avwlnfi dress was one of the attractions on the terrace of the House of Commons recently, while the Russian government has just issued & decree waking it compulsory on Russian railway companies to provide smoking earriagos for ladies. This paragraph appearod in an Eng- lish parish magazine: ‘‘Tho mothors’ last meoting of the season will be cele- brated by a tea, to take placo on_ Mon- day, May Teaand shrimps. N. B.— Mothers bring their own shrimps.” Mrs. Sarah B. Cooper, who organized the first kindergarten in San Francisco in 1880, has received more than $300,000 to enable her to carry on the work. There are now sixty-five kindergartens in the city, and more than 10,000 children have been trained in them. Tt is an undoubted fact that absinthe is becoming a very favorite tipple among smart women in England. [t is sup- posed to improve the complexion and wive vivacity to the conversation, but American women, fortunately, require no stimulant to inake them vivacious, Jane Hading, the French actress, is said to bo more beautiful off the stage than on. She almost always wears black on the street, being probably quite well aware that it sets off her wonderful red gold hair, langalshing eyes, and pale, mobile face advantageously. Mrs. H. H. A. Beach of Boston, who composed a jubilate for the Columbian celebration, is authority for the state- ment that botween the years 1615 and 1885 women composed 153 mpsical works, including fifty-five serious operas, six cantatas and fifty-three comic operas. An effort was recently made to secure the admission of women to memborship in the Laryngological association in England. Although the attempt was un- successful the women regard it as an evi- dence of advance that the question should have been debated in the society. A suggestion to campers or other folk who are really roughing it is how to se- cure cool butter withoat ice. Fill a box with sand to within an inch or two of the top. Sink the butter jars in the sand; then thoroughly wet the sand with cold water. Cover the box as nearly air tight as possible. . The English girl seems to be busy ac- quiring knowledge. Miss Mary O'Brien for instance, has received a scientific ro- search scholarship, worth about $750 a year, for two years. She has decided to devote herself for that period to the study of the nitrogen supply of legum- inous and other plants, Miss Minnie Rush, a 21-year-old young woman of Lakeville, Ind., is the agent of the Vandalia railroad at that place. The receipts of her office are about $10,000 a month. Last fall she surprised the rail- road officials by organizing excursions and sending out soveral hundred people at a profit to the company. lvery year, on the 17th of June, Miss Alice Longfellow provides a special car and invitesa party of working girls in Boston to spend the afternoon at the old Longfellow mansion in Cambridge. Dif- ferent girls are invited each season and all the art treasu in the place are thrown open to the visitors. Miss Dudley, an Inglish bicyclist, holds the record for long distance rid- ing by women, She made the distance of 100 miles, between Hitchin and Lin- coln, in a little more than seven hour oratan average speed of nearly fou teen miles an hour. This, too, in regala- tion petticoats, not the new style of trousers. Miss Lillian Bell, the Chicago girl who wrote *“The Love Affairs of an Old d,” is a member of Chicago's 400 and is by no means an old maid herself, al- though she has been announced as 60 years of age. Miss Bell is young enough to laugh to scorn, for many years yet, the ‘“ali-over cloth shoe” epoch, which she designates as the beginning of old maiddom. A French authority on cooking gives these rules for testing the heal of an oven: T'ry it with a piece of white paper. Lf too hot the paper will blacken or blaze up; if it becomes a lighter brown, it is fit for pastey; if it turns dark yellow, it is fit for bread and the heavior inds of cake; if light yellow, the oven is ready for sponge cake and the lighter kinds of desserts. It is so rarely that a woman, however musical, composes a good song. that the success in that direction of Miss Mary Knight Wood is the more sign Her best known work was inspire Mr. Richard Watson Gilder’s exq verses, “Thou,” which she has setin the most moving of melodies. The composi- tion is 50 arranged that there is oppe tunity for the 'cello, as well as for piano- forte'and voice. The first stained glass window ¢ designed by a woman 1s in Grace church. It is well worth a visit from stranger or resident, not only for this fact, but as well for its wonderful beauty of design and color. Its subject is ‘*Jacob's Droam,” and its author is the Miss Tillinghast whose attractive studio in Washington square, whose $30,000 tapestries for Mr. Vanderbilt and whose other equally remunerative and artistic achievements have won her deserved honor both in this country and abroad. “The handwriting of Ruth McEnery Stuart,” said a young woman who has made a particular and practical study of graphology, *‘has the strongest tendency to the artistic of any that T ever saw. Such beautiful, unux]}n-cmd curves and graceful lines! There isn't a single char- acteristic of her charming literary work that hor chirography doosn't botray.” Tt may be added that all her stories, her books oven, are written upon ordinary letter paper. She opens the sheet and writes across it horizontally, using the two middle pages as one, A physician advises: “‘Loarn how to rest. Don't wait to make a separate business of it; let it becomo part of the daily routine of occupation. Above all, begin relief, however slight, at the first moment its need is indicated. Stop work at your desk; lean back and close the eyes; relax the frame so far as possible for fifteen minutes: lie down, if conven- ient, for the same length of time; in any way rolieve the tension, however briefly, but promptly, and the result will be a large ratio of gain in endurance.” A romantic story of constancy in ad- verse circumstances comes from Vir- ginia. A pretty girl was beloved by a youth, whose sudden loss of fortune caused her parents to forbid the match. The young people resolved to elope. The lover arrived at the appointed hour under the lady’s window. Unluckily, she had been locked in her room, but, rather than give up the plan, sho leaped fiftoen feet to the ground, dislocating her ankle severely. The young man carried her to a churchyard hard by, called up a surgeon, who set the ankle, carried his fair one to a vehicle, which took them to the house of a magistrate, who duly tied the nuptial knot. or lsAIIY_MADI MUSTARD PLASTERS ‘e were the first manufacturers on this Contineut. Our latest improvoment surpasses ) over belo) 160., 256., o' Bo sure to have “'Euwni'u. 1 or them spread on gotton cloth. SEABURY'S SULPHUR Gelelll; cure, { Quitos and {rrkating) Price, 50 oA ‘To purif; BRONAPHTHQL PASTILLES, | ol nunmc JO. SON, Pl e | NEW YORK, The 3-Day Freckle Cure ATTENTION, Physicians and Chemists Ladies and Gentlomen: Mme. M. Yale, that most wonderful woman chomist, has discovered a medicine that will remove Frockles from any face in three days. Hark ye, doubting Thomases, every bottle is guaranteed and money will be promptly ro- funded is case of faily It removes tan and sunburn in one application. It mattors not if the Freckles have beon from chila- hood to old ago, La Freckla will cloar them in_every case. Price $1.00. Sent to any part of the world. Address all orders to MME. M. YALE, Beauty and Complexion Speciallst, Rooms 301-2 Karbach Blook, Cor.16th and Douglas Sts., Omaha,. Nab. Ladies liviug in the Tempie of Beauty. ¢ pleaso call at INFANTA. The latest out, Pretty, styl- sh, nobby traveling hat in white and colors. Selling all summer millinery at cost and less. BLISS, 1514 Douglas St MAKES THE BEST Photograph p= 1 REASONABLE RATES FOR The Best, 1620 LHYHUYNI Dougln Stras. Hirgglll)ba;g’s Nonchangeable Spectacles anl Eyeglassos. HAXCHEYER BRO COMPANY, ialty of Epilepsy, baswithout doubt treated and cured more eases than anyliving Physician ; his successds nstonishing. Wo haveheard of cases of 20 ye cured by him, Tie publishes valusble work on this disease which he sends with a large bottle of bis absolute cure, free to any suffcrer who may send their .0, and £ dross. Wo advise anyone wishing a cure to addre Prof. W, IL, PEEKE, . 1., 4 Cedar St., New York, v different [ . Ho haw acquired el knowledgo it took buds, ote. ' He ‘W privite diseases, ) b, Dervousness, chronle diseascs and knessen, Pitients st a distance o by eorrespondence. Tho. dec odi of Lostimonials. Send 4 conts ki 00k Of tewlimontals sud question bl Goe Wo, 16th and Callforuks strects . e for i 1 " Dr, alia, SOMETHIN We have Just GENUINE PAK) OF PINES, w all Cuban’ parrots, be larger, wr o 4o fner dn plum Ikuru. pectal pr 0 dibys, ONLY. Each parrot sold with a 10 talk. Solid 0. Orders for i cages require 2xiri fOr BhippLIE boXes. GEISLER'S BIRD STORE, Omaha, Neb. La Freckla T