Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, February 5, 1893, Page 15

"GET OFF THE WALK, PLEASE | 'Oataclysmio Ohanges in Fominine Apparel Threaten the World, THE CRINOLINE ALREADY IN BLOOM The Rustle of Tumnltuous Skirte Heard In the Land-Pretty ks for Children ~Talk on Things ¥ Personalities. This is & period of suspense in dress Cataclysmic changes are threatened,and everyone is waiting anxiously the edicts from the parliament of fashion. Just now the law mak are involved in in- ternecine With the French authorities pulling one way and the | 1 authorities pulling the other, a | €omprom ms probable on the modes | of the 1850 period. Never before, within | ", did the female form divine so ap- | Iter its outlines as during the | last twelvemonth. The idolized waist, that has been the pedal point upon wh all dress harmonies have been found bas been deposed and dishonored have sacrificed food, comfort, almost life jtself, to this waist ideal, says the New York Sun, and now, when its dearly-bought slenderness is not entirvely Jost beneath the straight draperies of an Empire gown, it is sacrificed to the | short, broad outlines of the fashionable bodice, with its folded belt and wrinkled corselet. The modiste, who has for years ruthlessly fitted down our bodices » the prescribed modish sha ter what shape we might be bassuddenly ened the torturing st and bones gives us a waist line inches above and more than two inches broader than anything we have been al lowed to possess in a of century. Ore ashion goddess had lies and w z formers, w on new extravag ratio to the and that the ties galore, the ness about the instead shoulder. It is not quite a year now since the study of evolution ' in dress rompted the prophecy that the crino- ine was imminent. ['or time the skirts grew even more scant, and the thoughtless laughed in derision. but hastening the day when the turbulent should surge and flow ily about us, for skimpiness the re ion was Now the newest Parisian skirts teen and a half yards around are lined throughout with muslin, and stand out stiftly all around, with the bulk of fullness at the back | It cannot be denied that the new mode has, despite its grotesqueness, cortain | elegant and delicate features gratifying | to the sense of the dress epicure. The | woman clad in the close, short skirt the essentially feminine and | u and rustle. She walks ilently, like a man. The woman in the wide petticoat is heard whispering down the staircase, rustling along the passages, murmuring through the ma of the dance, like a summer forest who: mystic voices are never still. One might write a poem about this melody of the tumultuous petticoat, which, if it is not natural or classie, is engagingly artificial and symbolic of exceeding daintiness and leisure and idle grace. The average woman is appalled at the demands of the new skirt. It requires in arrangement a multiplicity of frills and no end of petticoats to give it de- sired amplitude, It is hopelessly u manageable outside a carriage. It wi need endless brushing and refurbishing and care. But the woman who drives and keeps a maid will rejoice in all this nicety of attention, which distinguishes the lilies of life from the faithful, har working, often talented, but hopelessly Prosuic average woman, We health, | no mat- ourselyes 1 ind quarter a fancy that the ented of her fol- ith the dress r daily in incre reasonablen of the " All the new wash materials are par- ticularly pretty for children's frocks and short lengths of handsome fabrics sold at a reduction may be made up mosteffectively for young girls. One advantage in_little children’s attire is that the mode varies but slightly from one season to the next, so that it is quite safe to begin on the simple gowns for the summer now when the dressmakers and seamstresses are not busy. The prettiest little organdie gowns are made with a low-necked, short-waisted bodice about whichis gathered a full rufile, edged with lace and falling low enough to entirely conceal the waist. The little skirt is gathered and finished with & plain hem or with.a little frill. A pretty model for a cashmere dress has a pointed capelike rafle gatherved from the neck and falling quite to the belt in the front and at the back. The | ruflle is finished on the edge with a scallop embroidered by hand and having rows of dots worked in following the out- line of the scallop. Another pretty idea is a gath waist of wool belted with many straps of velvet and worn over a white embroidered guimpe. The gown, of soft fawn challie, with green leaves | and tiny flowerets, has its trimming of | thin velvet, or a plain blue wool, light, | is mgde stylish with a decoration of | brown velvet. Another pretty idea fora challie is copied from a dressy little frock of yellew bengaline. The skirt is | plain. The waist is shirred at the front und back. leaving a standing rufile of the | goods. About the waist is a broad belt | made of pipings of bengaline about half an inch wide, with rows of gold braid be- tween. This belt does not meot in front | or at the back, but is finished on either | side the shirred space with two roset of the braid. A full ruffle gathers over the shoulder, stopping at the shirring, and is finished on the edge with tha braid. Baby ribbon in velvet or satin might replace the gold on a figured dress and, matching some color in the materia ake a pretty addition to the . Young folks will always enjoy a danc- ing party more than any other’ form of entertainment, Yet to give a large dance is very expensive, and to go to one likey means extra cxpenditure as well as late hours and rich viands that ave not the best things in the world for the lads and lassies who ave just budding into men and women. Of course the society man and the debutante who enter upon a round of winter gayeties as the sum total of their existence can recuperate by sleeping late the next day and thus make up for the dissipation of the previous night, but there are many happy-hearted young folks who are not butterflies of his sort, yet who enjoy the fun as well as their more favored brothers and sis- ters and would be only too glad of a chanoe for an evening’s ‘enjoyment now and then if it didn't cost too much. By costing too much, it does not mean the actual expense of the refreshments or the music, but the d; go the small dance does to the furn and ~carpets of the room wherein it is usually given. To counteract this all the belongings, save a few chairs, should be removed and & crash laid over the carpet. If it were possible to obtain a vacant un- wrwm it could soon be trans- | trothed he will not tolerate in his wi THE OMAHA DAILY BEE: SUNDAY, TRy FEBRUARY 5, 1893—SIXTE OoRr PAGES, THE MANUFACTURERS AND MER ST, CHANTS LLOUIS Invite the Attention of B U Y E R S to the fact that it is the BEST MARKET N TRl LN ESE) &S FOR MANUFACTURES AND MERCHANDISE OF EVERY DESCRIPTION, ESPECIALLY FANCY AND STAPLE DRY GOODS, BOOTS AND SHOES, MEN'S & CHILDREN'S CLOTHING, CARPETS AND CURTAINS, - CARRIAGES AND VEHICLES, BLANK BOOKS & LITHOGRAPHY, SMOKING & CHEWING TOBACCO, ST . LOUIS is the Commercial and Manufacturing Metropolis of the West, South-We ROAD CENTER in the United States;its stock of merchandise are unsurpassed in cither extent or variety, ers can cffect a large saving by placing their orders in St. Louis. turns beartribute to the eminence of St. Louis as a MANUFACTURING and DISTRIBUTING point. In all matters of Transportation, Freight Rates, Etc., St. Louis FURNITURE AND UPHOLSTERY, HARDWARE, ARMS & CUTLERY, RAILROAD AND STREET CARS, MACHINERY--Mining, Steam, Electric AGRIZULTURAL IMPLEMENTS, DOMESTIC AND IMPORTED CIGARS. o] The increase in manufacturing and shi SADDLERY AND HARNESS, GROCERIES AND PROVISIONS, DRUGS AND CHEMICALS, DIAMONDS, JEWELRY & WATCHES, WOODENWARE, STEAMWARE, CASKETS AND UNDERTAKERS’ SUPPLIES, t and South; it is the best RAII - and buy« pping re« g~ Manufacturers and Merchants offer inducements unexcelled by any oth NOTICE TO INVESTORS. The year 1892 was one of unprecedented growth and prosperity in St. Louis. More than 5,400 buildings were erected, as compared with 4,800 in 1891, and 4,200 in 18g0. The new buildings erected in 1892 cost upwards of Tuirry MiLLiox dollars, and the ‘demand for office buildings and residences continues exceptional. No city in America offers such excellent inducements to large and small capitalists with such absolute security. This announccment is TIVITIES ASSOCIATION of the City of St. Louis, the Burc er city; sued by the Bureau of Information of the AUTUMNAL FES« au being charged with the duty of making known to the world the extraordinary advantages that those trading with St. Louis enjoy. It invites buyers to come to St. Louis or open up correspondence with its merchants, Any other information that may be desired as to mercantile matters will be given by the Bureau, or inquiries refetred to proper quarters. : THE BUREAU OF INFORMATION, there | would be no danger of upsetting any of | the knick-knacks that are to be found in the living rooms of all houses. S arrangement as this would require no moving of furniture and would be par- ticularly appreciated by the awkward young man who always falls over some- thing. Refreshments can be either cake and ice cream, the staple and always grate- ful frozen delicacy; fruit and wafers, cake and lemonade, crackers and choco- late served with whipped cream, or sandwiches and coffee or bouillon, if the weather is very cold. Two things are quite sufficient and a piano the entire orchestra that is required. Adhering to these simple rules many a gay little affair, beginning and ending carly and affording much pleasure for very little expense, may be given during the winter. 5 Young girls, who marry against the will of reasonable and loving parents, can make up their minds that disap- pointment, if not something worse, will be their lot, writes V. i article on ebruary r as the forei, be dazzled, captivate ace, intellect and inde- pendent ideas and manners in the American woman, but this ry inde- pendence which he seemingly admires in her while she is his friend or his ¥ by the beauty, g young girl, who sees but the varnished oxterior of el nt manners, the persuasive and subtle compliment, will s00n learn, to her own disappoint- that the a substance of a alistic and unpleasant nature be- neath this highly colored rainbow tissue of her romantic imagination. There are but two courses to pursue—to learn from the experience of others, or from your own, The American girl need look no further than her own country to find the noblest, the grandest type of manhood on earth. Here man respects and honors her womanhood, is willing to labor and make sacrifices for her happiness, bids her cheerfully to be a coworker, an hon- ored guest of public life, when occasion demands, and loves her, not for what she has, but for what she |.0 ‘When nature has neglected t a head with silken tresses, one can, in some measure, remedy the slight by persistently brushing the hair. A good quality of brush should be used. A hair brush should have long, soft bristles that will go through the hair and touch the scalp; then 'y particle of dust and dirt can be removed. comb is ar ir is carefully brushed; if used at all the comb should be a coarse one. A fine comb irritates the scalp to a hurtful degree, and itis quite apt 0 break and split the hair. Brush the hair for f minutes before retiring at night, braid it loosely and permit it to hang. Never sleep with halrpins in the hair, The hairpins to use are made of bone, amber or tortoise shell. Coarse, sharp pins cut and tear the hair and should never be used. It isan old-time saying ro lies rown and well worth trying that *‘100 strokes of the hairbrush évery night will make one's hair like silk. ..0 The right of women to ‘“‘wear the breeches"” actually as well as metaphori- cally, has r ntly been demon: if priority of invention give priority claim. “By the patient archmol research carried on by one woman, the Pall Mall Gazette, ‘‘it has been for the gratification of all , that the bifurcated nether ga ment supposed to be specially distinctiv of the masculine toilet rightly belongs to the feminine dress. The women of Judah, it seems, were the first wearers of the garment in bifurcated form, and man, perceiving the convenience and comfort of this article of dress, evolved by the superior intelligence of woman, appropriated the same for his own use, and doomed his womankind to encumber their limbs with fowing robes which render it impossible for them to cope with man in the useful occupations.” + Every bride knows her power; every wife comes to know her weakness, writes Octave Thanet in a delightful art “That Man: Your Husband” in the February Ladies’ Home Journal. A good proportion of the heartbreak of early married life is due to the ferment of this knowledge. The poor child whose lover gave up his cigars and his club with such angelic meekness, finds that her husband can smoke like a chimney, and leave her alone nights in order to spend the evening with his men friends. She imagines that he cares less for her than he did, which is a mistal in most cases; seven out of ten men love their wives better than their sweethearts. It is simply that her presence is not the absorbing excitement that it was when love was new. The chances are that the wife is become a dozen times more neces- sary to the man than ever the sweet- heart could have been. He would feel her death far more keenly, but he does not need to adjure his heart to *'sit still” whenever his fancy summons her image. In shor s become the bread of e istence in place of the elixir, but there is no question that more fuss is made over the elixir. she -.u The serupulous regara for truth of the Chicago newspapers has long been well known, but none of them has hitherto gone so far as the Evening Mail when i ares that Chi women have feet in all nts alleged dia- grams of the feet of Mrs. P. D. Armour, M in, Mrs. Reginald de women to prove It says that Boston pigeon-toed turning so many and that New York women spoil feet by climbing elevated railroad and that Philadelphia women go to sleep standing and flatten out their feet, but only on the shores of Lake Michigan do women have beautiful and symmetrical under pinning. . women g corne *"s Mprs. Carlisle, wife of the man who, it is now conceded, is tobe Mr. Cleveland’s secretary of the treasury, has for years been her husband’s chiel counselor and helper. ‘‘Few men,” says 8 Washington correspondent, “ever lived who owed more to a woman than he to Mrs. Car lisle, and she has always been intensely ambitious for him. Itis likely that she weight in declding the n of his going into the cabinet of Cleveland, as she hashad in most others in Mr. Carlisle’s political career, Mrs. Carlisle knows public men and af- fairs as well as Mrs. Hetty Green under- stands railway matters, She is neither young nor handsome, but she is very icle on | knows what is best for John Griffin Carlisle. Notes of the Fash The poke bonnet's return is a cer- v of rich purple hue are ver: fashionable and are worn with blacl toilettes. Goldenrod and primrose shades are considered modish as the color schemes in tea robes. After the crinoline comes the man who is in & hurry to get down town and will probably have to walk in the streets. Tufts of bright scarlet feathers with a black satin butterfly in the center are worn in the hair at fashionable enter- tainments. What use is it for a woman to try to enjoy a play when she is wearing a pair of kid boots that she has just bought that afternoon? Shaded velvet sleeves with contrasting costumes, and plaid velvet sleeves with blue or green cloth gowns, seem to be particularly popular, The girl who wears a high hat front seats at the theater will ne ] ywhere near the front seats in heaven. ast that's what the man behind her thinks. Hat pins have become so elaborate that thie court them. Numerous in- stances have ¢ rred of women's hats being rilled while they were on their heads. One very marked feature of the sea- ‘s fashions is the fane, owns, with coats or in rich, bri shades, and I ation. Double-fac and satin ar ,and one of the hand- somest of Virot's recenthats has the shape stretched tightly with satin in a pale tint and adorned” with black lace, fur and ribbon of this sort. . The old bell skirt anay: be ruffl cut off and en ged with flounce, and the sleeves ¢an be easily changed. Inthe matter of bodices can be in the height of fashion by wear- ing a contrasting velvet Waist with the old skirt., i Collarettes of bright ihbon plaited or two ruffles of silk scolloped on the edges and buttonholed,with colored silk are worn to brighten dark house d and long bows of chiffotl, shirr tucked into shape, come: in all tints for indoor wear, == A very elegant and s$fllsh new shoe is a walking boot of ‘patent leather without the least adornment in the w. of tips or brogues, but cut in long ele gant shape, with a thick English sole and heel. It has a cloth top, witha strap or buckle under the instep to iim- tate the neatest fitting gaiter. Now costumes in any shade have vel- vet bodices of the same color. either the same shade or a tone dar This isa particularly happy combination in bis- cuit color or beige. The skirt isof cloth, which, by the way, promises to continue its popularity all the spring, and may have {01ds of the bodice in velvet or the seams piped up and down with velvet cords. The corsage is a velvet, a shade or two darker, and no matter how simply draped and arranged it makes a very pretty costume. The majority of the bodices d and bright and modistes are made with a round bias seamless back, with very wide fichulike revers going over the shoulders, the revers deeply notched in front like a man’s coat-collar, 'he skirts are shorter, with either a cornet back or the more familiar shape with a bias seam, this seam, however, being hidden by large plaits, and not revealed as it was on-the original bell model. There are made some exceedingly dainty bodices for evening wear which are most becoming and useful when the high bodice of the silk dress is removed for the purpose of making a smartening change. The bodices of cream and ivory white lace are a fascinating feature of present fashions. They are made high as well as low, square and half high, but always with hugh airy puffs for sleeves, these reaching from the shoulder to above the elbow. The new ‘“‘shadow” velvets are the ad- miration of all, since their folds in their ernations of light and shade a a vision of splendor with their superb rain- bow hues. They find a foil in the sub- dued shadings of autumn leaves—rich ambe wu, garnet, iris purple, greens in all shades of foliage, cyclamen, petu- nia, the yellow of the goldenrod, damask rose, ete.—many of the beantiful colors when in velvet being accentuated by u still brighter background, glimpses of which a obtained through the rich black or dark brown pile. TWO HOUSE DRESSES. The figure at the left in the accom- panying engraving wears a_princess cos- tume of olive brown cloth with velvet sleeves. The puffed sleeves and the nar- st ave of dark green velvet plastron is of cream colored s trimming used, both the menterie and the marahout black, The plastron is slightly pl and is bordered by a narrow band of velvet, which clasps at and irah is nee of a is of cream ly covered by re are tight the waist and le ] vest. The standing collar colored surah and i \e feather teimming. fitting undorsleeves. The ogstume at the right is of navy lue cheviot, set off with ¢ silk and aving a vest of salmon colored silk. The bottom of the skirt has a balayeuse, and is trimmed with a double gathered ruche of the ma- terial. The braid girdle is knotted at b lack owns now being fashioned by leading | the left as in the picture, and hangs in g ng P i now, | | in her attire and » i 202 Mermod & Jaccard Building, ST.LOUIS, M What Brand isr on your Collar ? 4 It ought to be, if you wear 18 1T THE (e ) a 25-cent collar; for they are superior to any other 25-cent collar made. « .« . It ought to be, if you wear & 20-cent collar; for this brand is the very best value to be had in collars for 20 cents; three for 50 cts, % ThapE g No collar, whatever be its brand, should be worn on any other make of shirt than the AR ‘This ready-made shirt will certainly suit you. Itisasurefit. We make it and we know, Cluett, Coon & Co Watch our advertisements next woek. Withoutmoney andwitho To the Fou arc money or Cutout th RIPANS CHEMICAL CO., NEW YORK Pasteiton a postal o Write your own niu other sileof the en the Post Office, mall you w sotmemedicin good. Ity It triends. ut it in and by rotura tot w lettor und that will do you wod tell ycur —_— from the edge of | ercise, d skirt The g-0'-mutton | before br button at the wrists and are trimmed | with trimming similar to the two long ends to a foot s a long “‘constitutional” [ sy morning The empress of Austria has begun the of the modern Greek language and vature. She has alveady made con- siderable e clever and learns casily. A young lady in Newark, whose ankle the slecves there study girdle For home wear, summer dresses ma, be made warm-looking by adding velvet sleeves and trimmings to them. Blouses also, instead of being made of light silk | was fnjured during u waltz by hor Parts are made of vet or velveteen. v accidentally ~ kicking her, wants They are made over a tight lining to | §5000 damages from him. = The' way of prevent bagging. If the lining be boned | v no corset isnecded beneath them, They look prettiest fastened at the side, and may be trimmed round with a narrow band of fur if intended to be worn out of doors. as she is ah Kipple of Scranton, Pa., still persists in smoking, after seventy- nine years’ experience of the noxious and deadly weed. As she is only 99 years old, there is, however, time' for her to reform, Fe alities, Mus. P, T. Barnum is at Hot Springs, | Miss Nellle Ahern will be the N. D., where she is nursing a sprained | state librarian at Indianapolis. This enkle. s decided at a caucus of the two M TOhE A et ho in which sixty-four votes: were cast for Miss Ahern and only eight for the horrid male candidate, ne Perso next s most unassuming dom wears jewels of Her favorite color is pear! 2 of the Fren: ettes aftor her and sweet-scen any kind Mme, Carnot dent, smokes eig but ouly a mild riety. Mus. - Wheeler & Wilson, with ite upper and low is the lock-stitch machine an elastic seam. 1t is the dressmaker's favorite on that account. Sold by Geo. W Lancastes & Co., 514 South Sixteenth street. The France in the be Hodgson 1 Aits of wal irnete b iug as anex- |