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12 —_— e RUSSIAN RATLROADS How the Iron Horse is Raised and Groomed in the Land of the Ogar, \ ‘TRANSCONTINENTALS AND THEIR COST Progress of the Transsiberian Railway Binding the Baltic and Pacifio. PROPELLED BY PETROLEUM 0il Fuel Better Than Wood and Trains Are Run on Time, TRAINS RAILROAD RESTAURANTS IN RUSSIA One at Every Station and Travelers Soem to Eatat Each—Scene at a Table—~Somo Queor Features of Russian Railronding, Moncow, Sept. 8.—|Special Correspondence of Tur Bee.| ~The English are greatly ex- oited at the enroachments of the Russians upon the Asiatio provinces borderiug upon thelr Indian possessions. Tbe fact is that Russia regards Central Asia as ner territory and she is adding to her Asiatic possessions much faster than the world realizes, While 1was in Pekin a yearor soago I heard the Chineso growling at the way in which she was inching upon thew. Kvery year or so Tussia would move the boundary line a little bit further down and she Las so enlarged Biberia that the country contains more than 4,000,000 square miles and it promises to bo one of tho most valuable countries of ths world of the future. The wheat area of Siverla s rapidly increasing and thero is a vast emigration Roing on from Russis into Siberia which promises to change the face of thatcountry. The Siberian trade of Russia already amounts to millions of dollars a yoar, and on the Volga you see caravaus of boats loaded with iron aud wheat and salt, which nave been brought from Siberia t Porm and thence floated down the Kaman river into the Volga and up the Volza to Nijni-Novgorod, frow whence they go by rail over the empire. The increase in Aslatio exports and imports since the build- ing of the uew railroad to Samarcaud is wonderful. This road has been in operation ouly about five years, and it is already pay- Ing expenses and a woderate iuterest on the Investment. It runs more than 1,000 miles right into the heart of Asia and it brings you within about 500 miles of the railroads in India. Indeed, I had thought of taking this rosd to Samarcand and theuce making my way by caravan and by boa* aoross Afghan- istan to Quetta or Peshawur, whence I would have taken the railrond to Calcutta and thence gone back to America by way of San Francisco, making a tour of the worla 10 this way. I find, howover, that, my time 1s too limited for me to carry out this project, but I propose it for one of the globe- trotters of the future. It would beanew and origival route, and 1 am convinced that the trip coul be made at theexpenditureofa little nerve aad some mouey. It ought not to take wmore than a month to get through from Samarcand to Lahore, and At this point you would be in the heurt of the wonders of north India. The English fear to build aroad to connect with the Russian line, but the Rus- slans are pushing their road right on, and 1f they are let alone they will open up all parts of Asia. Rallroad Construction in Russia, The recent fawine has increased railroad building in Russia, and a number of new roads have been comwmenced in order to give the starving peasants.something todo. Thero is & new line being built aloug the Caspian sea,aud the Tartar city of Kazan is being non- nected with the railway system of the Volgu. ‘The chief of the railway branch of the inter- ior department of St. Petersburg, with whom I talked the other day, tells methat the work on the Transsiberian road s still going on, and that about 150 miles of it have been built from Vladivostock, on the Pacific, to the west, and that the work is advancing in other parts of Siberia. This Sivberian road will run from Vliadivostock, across Siberia to Russia, and it is estimated that when 1tis completed passengers will be able to go trom Moscow to Viadivostock 1u fifteen days, and the time around the world ought to be re- duced to less thau fifty days. 1 am told that the road will cost about $100,000,000. The Russian government has made surveys of ail the possivlo routes, and the one that will probably be adopted will take ad- vantago of the navigablo rivers on tho by s iueans, bo able wayy and will, to largely reduce the amount of track. If an all-rail route is made it will be nearly 5,000 miles through Siberia alone and it wiil cost $170,000,000. By the uso of the rivers the necessary track can be cut down from 8,000 to 2,000 miles, but iu this case the road wiil be practically useless for six months of the yoar on nccount of the freczing of the rivers and la) during the winter. General Annenkoff, the builder of the Transoaspian road, estimates that the Siberian road can be comploted in five yoars, and tuut by 1897 we may have trains running from the Baitic to the Pacific. This road will open up some of the richest wheat-growing countries of the world and 1t will enable machinery to be taken to the Siberiaa gold mines, which are now practically unworked for the lack of 1t. Siberia Is being rapidly colonized by the Russians, but the country is 80 vast that they can mako but little impression vpon it. This railroad would incresse the immigra- tion from about 10,000 a year, which itis now, to hundreds of thousands ana it will result in the opening up of north Asia 1o civ- Ulization, ‘The fate of this Siberian road will proba- biy be the sume as the I'ranscaspian, It is belng built by the goverumont as a milivary line, but it will eventually become a great commercial highway. Tha Transcaspian rond 18 well construoted and well managed. It was largely made by Asiatic lavor and 1t cost ouly & litueover $10,000 & mile. The ordinary workmen upon it received orly 15 cents a day for thelr labor and the probabil- ity is that the Siberian road will find chean workmen from China, Moogolia or Siberia. The traius on the Transcasplan run at the rate of thirty miles an hour and burn uoth- 1ng but petroleum, Propelled by Petrolenm, I have traveled on mauny cars here in Rus- sIn which are moved by petroleum, ana all the unslnfls of central and south Russia are worked with this fuel. It takes 50,000 tous of this fuel every yoar for this Truuscaspian road alone, and Lhough the first cost of this is greater than the same weight in coul Geveral Aunenkoff estimates that coal ol 18 four times s cheap it its steam-producing poverss coal, and | am told by euginee: ere that a pound of oll will produce twice wuch steam as a pound of coal 1 have been traveling this week soutn of Moscow ana I have taken a look at the en- gines which use this oil fuel. T'he oil is kept in @ tank vack of the engine and it is injected into the furnace through a pipe so made that 1t meets & jot of steam and Lhis steam con- verts the oll into & spray before it meets the flame, and it iy so regulated that a steady hot fire 18 produced. The fire in the boiler is first started with coarse, beavy grass or wood, and it takes a pressure of aboat five unds to work the steaw jet. The engineers ike it much better than wood, and I found that most of the boats on the Volga river used petroleum for their ongines. The pe- troleum comes from the vast Russian oil flelds which lie along the Caspian sos, and it is sbipped up the Volga in bulk in oil ships, whica are Rreat iron lanks in the shape of barges wnd which carry thousands upon thousands of gallons, At various voints along the Volga there are vast oil tanks, such us you see in Pennsyl- wvania, and a great deat of oil is stored under. ground io wells that aro made forit. Itis carrind into the cars by weans of pives and the sawe sort of teuk-cars wre used here for theshipping of petroleum that you find in America. Tne cars ship about 250,000,000 of gallons of ofl a year, and though thiy big oity of Moscow is juston the edge of the Russian forests a large number of ita factories use petroloum fael and fina it much oneaper. North Russia is the land of forests and if you will 0 aline right across Russia through Moscow ora_little above 1t nearly all of the territory north of this will be made up of dense woods, The locomotives of north Kussia ourn wood and they have engines like our old camel-backs with high smokestacks shaped like a fuunel and with Rreat racks at the back of the engine which aro piled high with cordwood. Tho wood is loaded by mon who carry itup on their backs. It keeps two firemen constantly busy throwing this wood into the engine and ut nearly every stacion you will see acres of woodpiles_ready for the reioading of tne engiues. The engine which took me from the frontier to St. I’atersburk was fired up in this way and the sweet smell of the buro- ing wood was pleasanter far than the sul- phuric coal which was burned by the train which carried us through Germauy. Trains Run « ! find the roads here well ballasted, and in the thousands of miles wnich I have now traveled in Russia [ nave vet to find a_rougn road or one that is badly managed. The trains are always on time and the roadbeds are wonderfully wel keot. The road be- tween Sv. Petersburg and the frontier is weeded as carefully as the bost kept gavden, and [ saw women on their knees scraping out the weods betwoen tne ties with knives, In traveling over the black plain I saw men smoothing up the ballast on the road where it had become roughencd, and nowhere have 1seon a piece of bad roadbed. 'The ties are wooden, the rails aro of steel and at every cross road there stands a [Russian peasant girl with a flag 1n her hand which she holds up when the train goos by. This picture is one of the most lasting ones of Russian wavel. Whether the iron horse plows his way through the black plain, whether he shricks as he gallops through the mighty torests or whistles going through the rich agricultural lands of the wesi, this bare- headed, barefooted Russian Venus, in a bright calico dress, is thero to eet bim. Sho kneps guard over the road and is the omblom of the czar. Another embiem of the czar is the policomen at the sta- tion. Each station has its civil ofticers in uniform, and in addition to hese thereis a gondarme or u volicemah who is appointed from St. Petersburg and who gmarches up and down the platform all- day long with sours on his high-topped boots and with a great sword at his side. Hewears a red can, with a feather in_itand acts us though he ownead the road. I took & photograph of one of these men and came noar boing urrested forit. The man objected violently, but he did not know that the picture was taken until the train was about to leave, and [ laughed at him as 1 stood on the rear car with my kodak in my hand while the train was carrylug us away. It takes ubout five minutes tostart a train in Ru There is 4 bell at every station, and this is rung three times before the train leaves. You can tell by the taps just how much lime you have. Iirst there is one tap, then after an interval of a couple of minutas two taps are sounded ou the bell and two minutes after this threo taps are rung, when, after ashrill whistle from tho station master, the train gets ready to start. Queer Rallrona Features, Thore are many quoer features 1 Ruesian railway management, ‘T'he Russian cars are like no other cars in Burope, ‘They are half LEuropean and half American. They are of three classes and the rates are no higher than they are in the United States. The distance from St. Petersburg to Moscow is 400 miles and the roud is as straight as a string. There are five traius everv day, and it takes about ten hours te go frow onepoint to the other on an express train. There is a difference in faro on the express over the ordinary train and the tirst-cluss expross rates are 3ig cents a mile, while the second class, which 1s al- most equally as good, are only 214 cents, and the third ciass ure less than 2 cents a mile. I have traveled guite a g0 deal in secona class cars and 1 fiud them very comfortable. The most of the well-to-do Russians patron- izo the second class cars, and as one is ex- pected to carry his own bedding by the use of a little feeing you can save money and make yourself comfortable. I found it very inconvenient even in the first class sleeper during the first part of my present tour. I had neither soap nor towels with me and L bad to rely upon the guards for these as wellas for my pillows any bedding. In none of the sleepers do they cxpect to furnish you much more than a bpiace to lie down upon. You are expeoted to carry your own shests and 1 a first class hotel, which I found at Saratoff, [ had to muke a very pronounced kick before I could get any bedding. There was a mattress on the iron springs, but there were neither sheots nor pillow cases and the nights were cold. After a time [ ot a rather comfortable outfit for the night, but the next day I found that this was all chareed up in my bill ana I have nad to pay for bedding nt half & dozen hotels since then, ‘The passenger boats on the Volga, which, by the way, are very comfort- avle in other respects, do not furnish bed- ding, towels or soap, and you always pay oxtra for these when you order them. It you don’t understand the Russian sometiwes you pay when you don’t order them. [ remember u swallowtail waiter who made mo pay 35 cents for a cake of soap at the hotel at Nijni. 1 wanted a towel and io order to convey that idea to bim [ rubbed my hands over my face a3 though 1 was dryingit. He rushed off and brought me a piece of soap. It was wrapped up in tinted paper aud ne tore off the wrapper befors I could tell Lim that I didn’t want soup. He then took the soap away and I noted that it was charged in my bill, whereupon 1 ordered him to bring it back and took 1t with me, as I had to pay the bill auyhow. Railrond Restaurants in Russia, The Russians are always gorging. Th average man is a glutton, and I have seen slander, @sthetic-looking Russian girls during the past week who could get away with more solids and ‘liquids than auy beefy Englishman [ have ever met. Tone people seem to eat at every * tation, and the peauty of it you cun fiud something good to eat every ime tho train stops. 1 wish I could show you @ plate of Iussian soup. One plate is big euough for & meal, but the Itussians tako it only as an appetizer, The favorite soup 1s called stachee, and it is made of cabbage and other vegetables with a piece of meat about four inches squure and two fuches thick in the middle of it. In ad- ditioa to this they bring you o bowl of thick cream, which Is sometimes sour and some- times fresh, to pour into it in order to give it & body, ana this wolasses-like mixture you eat, and you like it. Itis not bad, I assure you. But I have never found myself able to get beyond the first course, fcr after you have taken the liquld partof the soup, you are expected LOwArvo Up and eat the meat, #nd the meat forms quite a meal in itself, The trains usually make long stops at tne statios, and from thirty (o forty minutes for @ dinteris noLuncommon, At evory sta- tion peddiers come around with fruits, cakes and drinkables, and u common sight is the oid follow with the samovar in whic.i ho makes tew und serves to all who will buy. [t mukes uo difference how hot 1t 15 this man always wears his overcoat, and a lone-visored cap usually shrouds bis oyes, He 1s generally bearded and bas a fat, joily face like Santa Claus. His tea is good and he serves it with a it of lomon wod @ lump of the hardest sugar you have ever put between your teeth, 1f you driuk tho tea ltke ha does vou will put a lump of sugar betweeu your testh and suck Lho tea through this, und the chances are that when you get us old as he is your teeth will bo in the decaved condition of his, Nine-toaths of the Itussian peasants have aa Leoth, sud there is inore chance [0t 20od, enterprisiug dentists here thau auywhere else-in the world, I dou't doubt but that thote are 500 120,000 cavities ready at this writing in Lois smpire for 520,000,000 gold or amalgam plugs, and the Russian with sound teeln is Lhe excention. How the Poor Travel. Tt is wonderful how much travel is done by the poor ciass in Russia. The third class cars are always full. They are more like catlle cars Lhan anything else. There are uo cushions on the séats 4nd the people are orowded 1o 1u all sorts of ways. They are uol supposed to have auy rights that the railroad officials are bound to respect, and | saw one mao knocked down and shoved back iuto the station just as the car was ubout to start because he dia not have his ticket in bis banu, He told the guard that the party of peasauts with whom he was traveling had ne ticket and they had already gotteu on the cars, but this did him no good, and though ne cried and howled he was held baock while the car bore bis friends and “bis family away. The peasaut canuvot travel in Russia without passport. 1 bhuve uot had 1o show my passport at tho railroad depots except when I came iuto Iussis, but the peasaut dare not o from oue Time. THE OMAHA DAILY BEE: SUNDA | part of Russia to the other without permission of Joesl government under which he lives, and ho s asked to_show his passport at the ticket offi At Tamboft 1 saw i whole crowd of peasants who were about to emigrate to another province. Kach had his passport in his hand and they stood in single file waiting for their tuins to buy their tickets, It was al this samo station that I saw my first prison car. These Rus- sian roads have oars especially devoted to the carryiug of prisoners, aud the prisoners which are taken from hera to Siberia go by rail to Nijnl-Novgorod, whence they are put on prison boats and are carried down the Voiga and up the river Kama to Perm and thenoe start on their march to the wilds of Sibera. Theso cars had iron bars and win dows, and they are guarded by soldiers who are ready Lo soot any Who 'ty to escaps. The cars themselves aro third ciass ones and the prisoners sit ou hard boards rather than cushions, It does not pay to carry much baggage in Russia, T have a trunk with me that weighs about 200 pounds and 1t _costs me $5 every timo I move. Ouly forty pounds of baggage is allowed with a ticket here aud the excess 18 nlways charged for. There is no charge, however, for packages carried inside the cars and tne result is that every passenger has a half dozen bunales and the cars are filled with packages and baskets and trunks with bandles on them. The poorer classes carry all thoir baggage into the cars with them, and as most of them are too poor to own A trunk they wrap their goods up in cloths and carry them in bundies on their backs, 1f thoy have to wait over night at the station they throw these bunales down for a pillow and sleep on the stones, and & common sight, at almost any of these stations is & Kussian peasant family, the father of which 1s gon- erally sleeping and the mother oither chat- ting with her neighbors or engaged in her never-ending searoh for the animals which nfest her children’s head. Rusain's Greatest Nee Railroads are Russia's groatost need. The present era of railroad building is producing but little in comparison with what Russia should have in iron tracks. One of the great causes of her recent famine was the lack of transportation, and there are millions of acres of good land here which might be made valuable by railroads. Such railroads as the country has have boen built as military roads rather than with regard to the agri- cultural and commerciai neoessities of the country and some of tho best parts of Russia are not tapped by roads. Russia in Buropo is two-thirds the size of the United States and she lasin her empire about twice as many people as we have. Still we have ono mile of railway for every 400 pso- ploin the country and Russia has only one mile 1o _every 5,000. We have more than olght times as wmany miles of railroad as Russia or sixteon times as many in propor- tion to our popuiation. If you will take your map of Russia you will see that there is scarcely a line of road in the vast area of Russia north of the line running from Mos- cow to St Pewersburg and Iam told that there are more thau 10,000,000 people in this territory. Siberia has 4.000,000 people and its resources'are among the greatestin the world, but with the exception of this line which 1s being built from Vladivostock 1t has ro road worth speaking of, and there are right 1 the heart of south Russia vast provinces which have been comparatively untouched by railroads. The United States is very much like the IRussian empire in that it is an agricultural country, and with us the avorage distance of the center of production from the nearest raiiroad is less than four miles, Here in Russiaitis 240 miles. In Beigium this distance is about two miles, in England 1t is three wiles and over the whole great American continent it is only thirteen miles. Russia is, perhaps, the most unde- veloped good country in the world today. What it needs is good capital and railroads allied to wood government. If it ever gets these it will be the great country of tho future. FrANK G. CARPENTER. LEGAL MEDI1ATIONS. James G. Buraelt in New England Magazine. What use to me is “Byles on Biil For “Jarmen on the Law of Wi’ 1 wouldn'v glve a jackstone. Nor would I give anotber for “Jurles and Jury Trials,” nor more TFor *“Coke on Littleton"~7es, or For Chitty. Kent or BlacKstone. W11 Byles help me w0 pay the bill Lowe for flowers? Can hor will Be chunged by roading Jarmen? What use are “Jury Tr als” for me?— Or Kent, or Chitty? Blackstoner—he Ts dryer than theosophy, Yes, worso than any Brahmin, Kneeinnd on Attachments, nothing in it that will do- - o title is misiéading. And tho o, ) through dusty books I read, or can 10ATN O D upld’s court, so she wiil heed, From “Stephen's Rules of Pleading.” “Collyer on Partnershiy (An anclent work); “Contracts to Wed." By some one numed. Fitzsimmon, seem 1o help me o Sottlements” T con rned book upon The Law of Married Women. There 13 no statute I ean find Wil make o maiden change hor mind; Nor know I whero the pluce 15 To find n law whil help mo win A suit like mine—or I'd begin Tosenrch It out, It isn't in My sot of “Leading Cases.” But—"Buylles on Appeals!” A, Is just tho An~Wer to my praye! I know now how to do It From her jon—by tho seal Of all the !—I will appeal: And that will mike the verdict nil, Until [ can review it. Ll 0. AL there BEAUTLE! MONEY. Albany (N. ¥.) Journal. ““The attitude of tho democratlc party on the bauking system of the country recalls to my mind the incideuts connected with busi- uess, and oven pleasure, in the days of the ola state banks,” said an old Albauian to the Journal this morning. “This wildeat finance scheme of theirs is not so fully understood by the younger people from the fact that they have only done busi- ness and prospered under our present sound nutioual bauking system,” he continued, and added: ‘*Take, for instance, an experience of my own in 1853, and [ had more than one, too. [started from Albany to go to Wash- ington. To defray my expenses I drow $100 10 §5 bills from the Albany City bank, which was then located on Broadway. The money was ‘par’ monoy. On mv way to Washing- ton I stopped off at Philadelphia. The sta- tion then was on Market street, where l*ost- master General Wanamaker's stores are located. When ready to proceed to Wash- ington I procured a ticketand tendered some of the monoy iu payment, They refused to reoeive 1t, and informed me that they ‘didn’t want any New York state money but wanted Pennsylvania money.” As it was night time, I bad to wait il morning and run around and find some one who would change some Pennsylvania money for wy New York state money, which I finally did, but not il after I had given him a bonus, or ‘shaving.’ “You see that by the beautiful workings of the state bank system I lost twenty-four bours’ time, and my woney had what you might call depreciated in value. The Albany City bank was one of tne best and strongest banks in existence at that time, but the poor system aud the poorer bauks made the paper money so unreliable that people had no con- flaence in it. Frequently notes of one bank that you held one oay would be much lower, perhaps even worthless, the next. Kvery bunk issued its owu notes, Finally, un agency began issuing a monthly publication, which we termed a ‘detective,” and whicn cost subscribers 25 ceuts a month. It gave the standing of each bank and the par value of the paper money issued by any particular bank. That is only one of the many evils illusirating the iostaoility of the banksin those days aud the annoyances of doing bus- iuess. What would the present generation think avout such a way of doiug business! It would opeu its eyes to have those experi- ences. The attitude of the democracy on financial questions alone is encugh to deteat i e The “No. 9" Wheeler & Wilson is u rapid stitcher; so rapia that it will stilch three yards of goods while ouly two yards are veing stitched on suy yibrating shuttle ma- obige. Sold by Geo. W. Lancaster, 514 85, 1ith street. e e By the will of the late Dr. Antoine Rup- paner, which has been filed for probato, $10,0C0 15 left to the Hurvard Medical school and bis extensive library o the University of Berue, Switzerland. If not sccented toere it goes to the University of St Gall, wit a bequest of 20,000 francs for a buildiog for it. A trust fund of $25,000 is establisled, whose incowe 15 to be devoted to the poor of the doetor's native town, Alstetton, Canton of St. Gall, Switzerland, ] . TEMBER A CANTERBERY PILCRIMAGE In England's Old Oathedral Town Whers Gathered Ohanosr's Joyous Company. IMPRESSIONS OF THE GREAT CATHEDRAL | Where Thomas s Becket was Martyred - More of eum Than Home of the & God Abont it=The Se [Congrighted 180.] CANTERBURY, Eng., Sept. 12, —|Correspond- once of Tis Beg. | ~Dospite the huge vropor- tions, the baautitul iaterior and the still ex- isting evidences of splendor in treasure and ceremonial in the olaen days of the cathe- dral at Canterbury —first establishea seat of episcopal powor in England, the present see of an archbishop, primate of all England and metropolitan—ovoth the cathedral and city seom to impross the visitor with an indefina- ble sonsn of sadness and unrest nofhore else experienced in the old cathedral towns of England, This is not oasily analyzed and made clear to others. It 1s true, however, that at Wor- cester, at Exoter, at Liocoln, at Wells, at Winchester, at_Gloucester, at Salisbury, at Litchfield, at Chester, at Ely, and evén to some extent at the huge and shadowy Min- ster of York, there is something so warm and sunny in_the immediate surroundings, so deep an affection of townstolk for the venor- able cdifices is apparent, something so hushed, reposeful and soothing is folt in the calm of close, cloister and church itself, that ona imperceptivly yields to the gentlo spell and is touched by the sweet and tender in- fluence, At Canterbury the entire interpratation of locality, history, association and struotural Impressiveness is different. The soa and another land and tongue are too close to glve the cathedral and town that complete and harmonious setting and environment cculiar to nearly all other cathedrals of Sngland, Somehow there are too many splatches of blood upon Canterbury’s conse- orated stones to provent a ohill and a shud- der as you come close to the place of historic and dreadful tragedies, and one of the foul- est murders of the Christian era gave this cathedral 1ts vastest treasure and greatest renown. The shrines of Canterbury are of kiogs and prelates only. The hoart is not greatly stirred by these. And the majestic and priceless dreams 1in stone in this ghittering and princely cathe- dral, while they compel an_intellectual sub- missiveness akin 10 awe, still possess a repel- lant grandeur rather than that mellow and tendor winsomeness which twines every ten- dril of one's heart, close as their mosses and ivies, in and around all other ol? cathedrals and cathedral towns of England. Origin of Canterbury. When Cwmsar, with his Roman_legions, crossed the straits of Dover aud pushed on to London to subjugate the entire 1slaud save Scotiand, Wales and portions of Cornwall, he found a British hamlet at a ford of tne river Stour, fifteen miles from Dover and fifty-six from Loudon. The Romaus util- ized this strateglo place as a base of supplies and a military station, and gave it the name of Durovernum. After the Romaus retired from England and the Saxon domination bogan, tho prasont county of Kent_ became a kingdom, Its chief cily and capitsl, the former Roman Durovernum, was then called Cantwarabyrig, and the name Canterbury of toduy is simply a slight corruption of ~the clty’s old Saxon title, The manner in which Canterbury became the seat of the primate of the Anglican church was in this wise: Pope Gregory the Great, iu 596, conceived the 1dea of Chris- tianizing the inhabitants of England, inae- pendent of the splenuid missionary labors of the followers of St. Patrick in Ireland and upon the western coasts of Scotiand, Wales and Cornwall. Augustine, called the apos- tle of the English, originally « monk 1in the convent of St. Andrew at Rome, where he was educated under Pope Gregory, was se- lected to undertake the conversion of the British, Conditions were favorable to this mission. Lthelbert was then the fourth king of Kent. His wife, - Bertba, daughter of Cherebert, king of France, was a Christian princess, and had stipulated for the free exercise of ber religion in her marriage contract. Her fluence upon Ethelbert was such as to as- sure Augustino and his followers of a hos- pitable reception. $Soon after Augustine's arrival King Eitelbert not only embraced Christianity, and caused, by royal commandg, the conversion and baptism of his nobles and voople, but also granted the city of Canter- bury and its dependencies to Augustine, who had been investedwith archiopiscopal dignity by Pope Gregory. ‘I'he pope soon after sent additional missionaries, ana empowered Au- gustine to constitute a bishop of York, but this in such a manner that Augystine of Can- terbury and each of his successors should remain metropolitan of all England. The Way to Canterbury. Augustine died in the year 604 at Can- terbury. He was buried in the churchvard of the Augustine monastery, the cathedral building then not being comploted. After the catbedral was consecrated his body was removed to_the north porch, whore 1t re- mained until 1001, when it was placed withio the cathedval. All this is interest- ing, briefly traced, as it gives exact data as 10 the origin of episcopacy in Kngland; shows the source and circumstances of the creation of ecclesiastic primucy at Canterbury, and is evidence that the original Canterbury cathe- aral, an important portion of which is intact within the present cathedral walls, was in progress of constriction at least 1,200 years ago. “The ordinary modern pilgrimago to Can- terbury is made over tho London & Souih- enstern railway, and a ploasant one it is. But a far pleasanter one is to saunter over 1the ancient way taken by the pilgrims in those days when the shrine of St. Thomas 4 Becket was to the pious of England what Mecea is to the followers of Mahomet. Thi leads from out throagh Southwark, in Sur. rey, over into Kent and, for about fifty miles, past the lavender fields, the strawberry farms and great hop vineyards of the most fruitful portion of England. Though Southwark is now meraly a por- tion of London, like Chelsea on the west, it has mauy characteristic old-time bits worth studyiug; and any one familiar with Chau- cer will tind pleasure in idling about the place where stood the old Tabard inn. The original Tabard inn was burned in 1676, but another Taoard lon, fashioned after the hos- telry of Chaucer's time, and now itself old ana picturesque enongh to please any fdler among the mosses of antiquity, at once took 1ts place, and is now & Mecca to many liter- ary pilgrims. Where Chaucer's Pilgrims Gathered, In the first ’l‘nbun{fl:flu—m at Sudbury inn in Longfellow’s s of a Wayside lun,” and no doubt Longfellow took Chaucer's quaint bostelry aad "groupings for his model were supposed to have been gathered those who related the "Uk‘ntnrburv Tales.” Chau- cor's fancy groupdd & quaint company nero at the beginning of the springtime pl(xrlm- ages, when— * % * from o _rysohires ende olond, 10 Caniprbury thoy wende, Iy DL WAl x f0r 10 Sookes hat them that Loibon whan that they wero secke. Wae all remember bis kuight, prioress, veo- man, friar, monk, merehant, sergeant at law, clerk, haberdaster, carpenter, weaver, dyer, shipmaster, miller, . reeve, doctor. cook, goodwife of Bath wwd whatuot of all ilk; and they form a goodly thoagh wraithful ‘com- pany in which to,ssunter about ancient outhwark, or mingle among all the village- al, countryside waw,over bill and throngh valley to nistoric Uawterbury town. The olden pilgeim’'s way undoubtedly brings you with the most pleasant impres- sions 10 your first view of Canterbury, its cathedral’ and the rich pastoral country rounda out. At the outskirts of Harble- down, the balting place, pernaps two miles southwest of the cathedral, you are bigh above thecity and the broad, blossoming valley of the Stour. ‘The roadway here ruus 10 the northeast for » mile past the ruins of i Nicholas hospital, where the pilgrims tarried for rest aud were meu by the olden monks who first lightened their purses ana sprinkied them with holy water. Then outlylng St. Dunstan’s chureh 1 reached. No city in England . abounds in so large a number of almost unaitered courchos of the greatest antiguity as Canterbury. St Duu- stau's chapel was & vestry room 630 years ago. Intbe family veult of the It)pers o this cburch still lies the bead of Sir Thowmas More. Frow this yeuerable church, fawous for its patron saint, its great antiquity aud its chimes, tbe way, now & Canterbury 25 -y 1892 stroet, intorsects the ancient oity from west to snst, crossing the two arms of the river | Stour, which make an island of tha western precinots of the town and passes straight on | to Dover—the veritablo street and way built by the legions of Julius Casar. Overlooking Canterbury Town, Before you descend the hill at the east of Harbledown you cannot but long and earn- estly study the interesting soeno below. The valley of the Stour reaches far to ihe north and south, an almost limitless lawn, broken only by blossoming hedye, tho glassy thread- ings of the river, half hid hamlets and the city’s ocentral mass of gray and red and green. Mossy St. Dunstan's 1s here to your left. At the northeastern edge of the city that huge mass of walls and towers is what is (eft of the onoe world famous St. Augus- une's monestery. Nearer to where you stand is Dane John bill and obelisk. Betwowen this and St. Dunstan’s that broken line of Kray marks the ancient city walls, Some of this masonry is more than 1,100 years old. Five or six of the turrets of these ancient walls still show like castle towers among the bright red oity roofs. Spires and round and squara towers hers and there push above the f liage of the huge old city trees. To the north, along the wind- ing Stour, are the barracks of the soldlery ; for Canterbury is still a military station, as in ancient and Roman times. Along the horizon edge toward Ramsgate and Dover huge windmills, like those of Holland, flap their winglike arms with sudden energy, or high and still upon some rounded dowa stana like ghostly silhouettes betweon green of earth aud blue of sky. But all sights and seemings bring back the | eyo to the one mass of white, to which_ the city towers, roofs and foliage and all the valleys, tields and hamlets are as a wide Etruscan base. It soars from but- tresses to towers, from towers to spires and from spires to pinnacles, floecy and glittering in 1ts wondrous dimeasions and height, majestic, spotless, faultless, and as fancifully light and delicato as a vast aud shapely crag of coral from which the sea has disappoared and loft 1t among the dallying clouds. From St. Dunstan’s church you pass through historio ola Westgate, which has stood there 1,000 yoars, 1t is now a jail. Un- derneath it flows the Stour, To the right and left strange old structures overhang the stream and recall some of the quieter sea lanes of Vernico. From Westgate to tho eastern arm of the Stour the thoroughfare 1s called St. Peter’s, Then, in the donsest part of the city, the way is given the inevitable name of High street, whioh you will tind in nearly every cathedral town of Engiand. Here aro scores of the ancient houses liko those of Chester, Gloucester and Exeter. Over them all seewus to brood a mournful air of departed glory. Canterbury Cathedral. As you arrive opposite curious and venera- ble St. Mary Bredman'’s church a glimpse is caught, to the west and north, of the quaint- est lane in all Canterburv. This is Mercery lane. In the olden days each trade or olass of merchants was given a separate thorough- fare. The mercers or havordashers ocoupied Mercery lane. Itisnow fllled with all manner of little shops, where merchants instead of monks set upon the modern pilgrim, Over- head the houses protrude, story after story, untit the gables are within whispering prox- imity. Ivis a pleasant place in which to loiter, this Mercery lane, and when you have come to its northern end you suddenly face the great cathedral, and are given an oblique view of its southern walls, transepts and the southernmost angle of its far castern apse, while the top of the great central tower looms vast and white and high above and peyvond the companion towers at either siae of the vast wes twindow. While no one can deny the grandeur of the proportions and richness in detail of this splendid cathedral of Canterbury, the fesling is irresistible that there is tov little room without and too much within. I mean by this that the effect of so vast a structure belng closely crowded by masses of inferior buildings, precisely as with the cathedral at Cologne, Is dwarfiag and iusigniticant. The interior lacks warmth, and there is no doubt that unnecessary vastness in a sacred eaifico lessens the desirable effect of repose. For thestudent in ecclesiastical history and architecture there is nowhere else in Eng- land a so graud and comprehensive study. The cathedral certainly embraces every var- iety of the styles of Kuglish ecclesiastic architecture from the rudest Saxon to the most finishec Gotbic art, [t contains a greater number, more famous and richer tombs, shrines and efigies than any other cathedral church of Britain. “Since 1ts erection, out of Canter- bury’s ninety archbishops eighteen have been canonized, nine dignitaries have been appointed cardinais and twelve have been mdde lord chancellors. In its history, con- struction and all details of cathedral enricb- ment it lacks no element of grandeur and deep impressiveness. Impressions. But to me there is an emptiness, a glar- ing whiteness, a loneliness, a desolation, in- deed a desertation, if that word may be used, about this vast edifice which reminds one of a tremendous mausoleum rather than a beau- tiful, venerable and tenderly kept house of God. Inno partor porton of the entiro cathedral 18 this saddening impression modi- fied. Even most of the inscriptions on tombs and brasses are of the “Stay, traveler, and reverence!” varietv. You are constantly confronted with primacy, even in the cter- nal set spaechies of the dead. The oloisters, though very great in extent, are neither so beautiful ‘nor reposoful as those at Gloucaster. The chapter house s lofty, lonely and drear, The great un- dercroft or crypt, where tne Huguenot weavers worshipea, suggests tbe charnel house. The choir screen is of stone and the archbishop’s throue 1s of stone, insteaa of the beautiful carved oak which so distin- guishes manv Euglish cathedrals, and there is no great glowing east window above the high altar,with its flood of warmth and light, as noble emblem of the source of light and life eternal. All this may be deemed captious by some, but to the lay pilgrim, untrameled by re- ligious politics or political _religion, it is the indefinable ~expression of all these various objects and emblems which wins or repels, while the pompous beralding by the vergers of every dreadful detnil of ths murder, canonization and pilgrimuges to the shrine of St. Thomas a Becket, as though the place were London 'l'ower or a waxwork “*Chamber of Horrors,” intensifies the show place character of Canterbury, —SIXTEEN PAGES, : ; Y GROCER PUT ME ONTO é 7 THIS x SOAP, and it does jut what he cla_irnél fgr it? Ack YOUR Grocer fortt, and InsisT on having it. THE BEST SOAP MADE FOR ALL HOUSEHOLD PURPOSES. MADE ONLY BY N.KFAIRBANK & CO. CHICAGO. Y0U ARE CHAMING A PHANTOM until oue turns from the ghttering shell of u once noble sanctuary with & sad and heavy heart. Encan L. WAKEMAN, Baby's cheek Islike a peach, Is it Madame Ruppert's bleach? No! but baby's mama's cheelk Volumes to its praise doth speak! 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