Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, December 15, 1889, Page 13

Special Low P THE OMAHA DAILY BEE: SUNDAY,”DECEMBER 15, 1889-SIXTEEN rices on Steinway, Chickering, Knabe, Vosd &nd other first class .. Pianos and Organs. Very Easy Terms. Get our prices b fore purchasing. d Save Money! - Save Money! Max Meyer & | Our Sale. AND ATTEND 3ro's. Jewelry Auction Sale, A Dollar Saved is Two Dollars Made, which you do when HOLIDAY PRESENT Diamonds, Gold and Silver Watches, and Silverware, Bronzes, Silkk Umbrellas, French Marble Clocks, Lamps, Oil Paintings, Rich Jewelry. And everything found in a first class Jewelry House. MUS then come to our sales. You will be convinced that you will save from 50 to 100 per cent. Three sales daily, 10:30 A. M,, 2:30 P. M., and 7:30 P, M. N.B. A SMALL PAYMENT on any article purchased will SECURE the same until you call for it. DON'T MISS THIS CHANGE, and attend our sale. STORE FOR RENT AND FIXTURES J. H. FRENCH, FIT FOR THE QUEEN OF SONC Patti's Season in the Magnificent Chicago Auditorium. A TRIUMPH OF ARCHITECTURE. The Wonderful Achicvement of a Wonderful City—The Diva as Juliet—Howard's Reminiscen- Prices in London. Adelina Patti. Henry C. Watson in the inter-Ocean, Have you seen hert La Divina Adelina! It you have not heard the ringing Of her most delicious singing As her melody o'erpowering ¥ulls in notes of silver showering, Stilling every heart’s emotion, Turning laughter to devotion; Soothing sorrow from its sadness— ! mirth Lo exrnest gladness, der, Every heart at ouce subduing By its soft, meledious cooing— If you have not heard our siuger, Hear her--not a mowent linger, 1 have seen her! La_Divina Adelina! I have heard her rich voi Lako the lark at heaven’s Now it rapid flights upspringing, Such a shower of diamonds flinging, 1 hat amazed—with lips asunder Scarcely breatiing—wrapt in wouder, Sat [ listening, anxious, fearing Lest one note should ’scape my hearing; [ have seen her dark cheek fushing, Like the suo on ripe peach blushing, As the lifo blood springs to motion At some passage of devotion, ringing rate singiog,” Or some love, T thought, sleader, thrilling, With its paius her bosom filling, 1 have soen her large oyes’ flasies, Seorching many hearts to ushes nd haye felt the potent power Of the livtle siuger’s flower. Genius, beauty, youth are given 1ut to few beaeath high hoaven! Therefole we do bow before her, . Listening, breathloss—we adore hér! As her bird-like voice is ringing. Doem we, “It's an angel singing | If you have not heard our singer, Hear her!--not @ moment linger. I bave seen ber La Diviva Adelinal The opers and the Auditorium. These two things have been upper- most in the Chicago mind duriug the the past week. That is o say they have been the principal subjects of thought and talk after the working hours, for no form of amusement is sufliciently se- ductive to distract the uttention of the citizens of this restless, pushing, crus ing motropolis while the race for the almi ghtydollar is on. ‘The grand jollification over the open: ing of the new Auditorium having vassed off Monday uight in a ** ¢lory,” the opers season proper opened on the next night with the pre- seutation of Gounod's geand opera “'Romeound Juliot, "built very closely on the dramatio story developed in Shaks- peure’s tragedy of thay name, It is o work not often heard here in Italian, though made quite familiar of late years to a large class of opera-goers by pre- sentation in English by the Abbott com- puny and possibly some others, 1t was given in Italinn some years ago by one of the numerous Strakosch conpunies that have drifted this way, probably, but not since them in that tongue; and Tuesday night was the first time that Mwe. Putti has ever been heard here in the part of the heroine. As remarked when recently given heve by the Ab- bott company, although it coutains Auctioneer. quite a number of brilliant and stri single numbers, it never been 4 cessful work. Tt h been ove **Faust,” work of the same composer, of which much of its music reminds tne listene the opening of the season. with the gveat diva in the cast, rowded the great Auditorium to 4 as much as did the open- vefore, though without the throng of idlers in the street which the entrance to the place on Mon- day evening a work of much -time und vast discomfort. It 18 not an interesting opera at the best. The poetry of the immortal drama is absent, of course, and the romantic story has to be somewhat condensed. It ¢ fuirly be said, however, that the : of the heroine’s part has never yre heen heard sung here or its pos- sibilities fairly appreciated, Mme. utti was in better voice than the even- g before and the work to be done move 1 the line of her best capacity. The sensuous, rhythmicmeasures of the fuvorite waltz in the first act were sung with a delicacy of shading and u crisp lightness and firmness of touch that recalled the besu work she has ever don All the shades and tints of the music were brought out in their due proportions, and even the soitest tone vetains that peculiar carrying quality that penetrated to the remotest corners of the great hall. The love music of the second act inevitably recalling the ‘“gar ene” of *‘Faust,” was sung with pected fervor and with an artistic flnish that held the most bardened centemner of the sentimental in close aitention and won the first call before the curtain of the evening. It was all through such an opera juliet as opera goers are not likely to see and hear again in a lifetime. PATTI'S CHILDHOOD. Howard Remembers Her as a Romp- ing Girl in Bleecker Street. Although this has been a particu- larly active and Lively week, considered from the lyrie, dramatic, social and political points of view, I in no sense traverse fact when I say that the arvival of Patti was the chief and most signifi- cant of them ali writes Howard from New York to the Chicago News. T first saw Patti in 1857, thirty y or more ago, when as u little girl, "w her long black hair hanging in beaids lown her back, clad in homely fashion, she gave concerts, accompanied by her brother Carlo, who played upon the violin, Poor Carlo long since joined the unknown. At the timel speak of, Patti was ubout as’ good a type of the itional gypsy us onoe can well agine. Her blue-black hair grew I upon her forehead; eyes lustrous, fairly She was us full of animal life as un egg of meat. She loved to romp, to dance, and, above all things, to sing. I next saw her in Montreal, at a grand ball given by the city in honov of the prince of Wales. She was then the leading featuve of a concert troupe, which uttimately fell back into iws original condition of an opera company. She had given, with enormous success, the lighter operas in tl Academy of Music in New York. There were then appavently no limits to her ultimate caveer. She leaped on the very first occasion, not only into vast and wide-horizoned popularity, but into the very saddle, dashing with marvelous and lightuing-iike speed fur beyond eriticism, defying enemies, and indorsing by that best of tests success, the predictions of her family and mun: agers. % in Montreal she was a rompe Her immediate coutroller at that time wis our old friend Strakosch. The family of Strakosch always had a kind of a wortgage on the Patti girls, Muu- rice Strakosch married Amelia, wna the Strakosch brothers directed the movewents of the three sisters—Amelia, the eldest aud haudsomest; Carlotta, We will sell without limit or reserve. OUR ENTIRE STOCK BE SOLD, as we are are determined to abandon our retail store; so come early and get bargains. Get posted FOR SALE. MAX MEYER & BRO., Omaha. who, but, for her lameness, would have been the triumph of the family, and Adelina. During the progress of the ball Patti, who was weary of re- t, eluded the vigilance of Sta- h, and with friends from New had a jolly good time in the dauce, supper room ana broad corridors, where, forgetting the st, she re sumed her girlishness sed the hours much more merrily than her guardian passed them. How different her condition today. Thirty-five 3 poor, friend- less, unknown —today with the world at her feet, aud a fame that belts the universe. [ f{ind in the Patti of today an admirable illustration of the familiar y work, industr continuity of i as preservatives of health, of looks even, than idleness, sloth and self-case. Let us suppose, for instance, that Patti, twenty years ago, in the verv zenith of her fame, had retived. In afl probabil- ity she would have died years ago. But she did nothing of the sort. On the contrary, preserving in her maturer years the finer qualities of her unpurc- alleled voice, with an industry worthy of extremest commendation and a de- votion to her art which might well be an incentive to early strugglers on the path of fame, she continued and contin- ues in_the exercise of her God gifts, What for? To make mon Of course she makes money. She ueeds ke money she may rnificence in which that she may provide for an of relatives and friends; that may be at perfect ease wh time comes that rest is an imperative duty. I believe Patti sings for something, higher, nobler and better than the mere making of money. In the first place she loves to sing; she sings by herself; sho sings in her moun- tain home; she practices in bher hotel; she entertains her friends, and she gratifies the poor of earth by gratui- tous contributions to the pleasure and enjoyment. Further than that, I be- lieve Patti has brains enough to under- seands the subtie philosophy of the de- sivability of industry rather than idle- ness, It is a long distance fromran Italian tenement house in Bleeker street to the magnificence of a castle 1n Wales. It is a long step from the hum- ble platform of a Sunday school lecture room to the stuge of the Grand opera house in Paris, in St Petersburg, in Milan, in Loudon, the Auditorium in Chicago. There isa most significant difference between penury and million- airedom, and an extraordinary ‘trans- formation from a snuppy-eyed little girl playing tag in the down-town streets of New York,and the prima donna of the dge, greeted, feted and ap- plauded by every man, woman and child who knows what music means or admires prominent success and appre- ciates the extremest endeavors of lofty genius, THE MEXICAN DISAPPEARED, How the Diva's Husband Disposed of a Boor, I have traveled many miles on the ocean,” Madam Patti said to a Chicago Herald reporter, *but T never saw such a passage as vthat we had on the steamer Toutonic. Mondieu, I was glad to get ashore! 1tis a six-day ship, and we were eight days out from Liverpool. The ses was rough, and the weather was cold and stormy. I was afrald of taking cold, and so'| did not go on deck once during the eatire voyage. Always heretofore | have been accustomed to goon deck every day,andI hate to stay in a stuffy little cabin, But this time the captain was good enough to give up his room to me, and, though I was sudly aflicted with mal de mer, [ wunaged to get through not so very un- comfortably. Such u droll thing hup- pened to me one day! There was a man among the passengers who wore a great dirty-white sombrero, and who was very foud of wine. The men koew - him called him ‘Mexico,’” and :he was ulways in the party that played cards at might in the saloni” I sut next to the captain at the table. with my husband next me. Just a day or so before we landed, when all of us were feeling wppy and elated over *the prospects of 6 al, *Mexico’ brought to dinner one of those horrid things you Ameri- cans call a ‘jag.’ Well, after dinner, and as I was about to retive to my room, this man came up to me, without intro- duction of any kind, placed his arms akimbo, and said 1mpressively: ** *This is Mme. Patia?’ “iYes,’ I replied. ‘Are you going tosing in America?’ ¢ Yes.’ “ *Where do you sing fivst?’ ¢ In the Auditorium in Chicago.’ Well," he said, bowing low, ‘Mme, I live 1n Mexico, but I'll be in Chicago the uight you sing first. Yes, madame,’ he continued, even more impressively than before,'vou’ll see me there in a box at your feet.’ “Just at this point Sig. Nicolini steeped forward and said, in that cross way the darling has, ‘I am madame’s husband. What do you want?’ escaped. Was it not noble of hin - Nicolini, I mean, not ‘Mexico.} And then the impudence of the man—*‘Mex- ico,” not Nicolini! As though I cared whether he had a box Monday night or not! Oh, it was very droll.” THE AUDITORIUM, who Description of the Great Buil and How it Was Built, The Auditorium is the Parthenon of mod- ern civilization. Like that svperb master- piece of Grecian architecture it typifies the spirit of the age which wade its conception snd execution possible. The Parthenon was the matchless froiiion of centuries devoted to conquest, love, and art; the Auditorium is the richest product of the era of business and commerical activity. Both are sublime in originality, beauty, and proportions, and both will live in history ages after the last crumbling fragment of their walls shall have been resolved into dust. The Auditorium 1s a study, not for a day, but for a lifetime. Within the massive granite walls is contained all that science, in- vention, art and wealth have bequeatbed to the living generation, From the copivg of the tower o the vast dungeons beneath the foundations the hand of modern genius has left its imprint. It shows the throbbing en- gines whose kiant powers are utilized in a hundred wuys; mn the wmyriad clusters of electric lamps which bathe the lofty hall iu an atmosphere beautiful us daylight; in the marvelous machinery which operates the huge stage with the ense with which a child handles toy blocks: u the dainty carvings, the exquisite decoration, the paintings, bronzes aad marbles. Figures and statistics are equally inadequate to give a comprenen- sive idea of the Auditorium, What avails 1t 10 suy that the structure weighs 250,000 tons that within the great hall is an acre and o half of solid gold leaf; thut the wainscoting of a siugle swall room cost over $15,0001 Vitruvius, the oldest known writer on architecture, says thut the three indispen- sable qualitics in a structure are stability, utility and beauty, Accepting the statement as autboritative, thé, Auditorium fills the full measure of a porfect editice. Those who huve seen its massivo walls and stood beside its rockfooted foundations will not question 1ts stability, It is folid as the gravite hilis from which were ‘quarried the blocks of stone now pilod juto the stately monuwment. Not more enduring are the vast monoliths of Rome, the massive temples of Sicily or the huge structures of Stonehenge, Its utility cannot be questioned. Every part of the building is dedicated to some useful urpose. When comploted it will become a ive of wdustry from the stores which nestle between its giant foundatious to the waton- man who, hundreds of feet on the tower, Ruzes on the sky and sends out the warning of a coming storw. Musie, hosoitality, trade and busiuess divide the floors between them, the Auditorium Js boautiful. There is beauty in the groat facades and in the stern, square tower. ‘There is beauty 1n the imwmensity of its proportions aud veauty in every lme of the arches withia the Audi- torium ball. If stability, utitity and beauty make the perfect building the Auditoriuim will not suffer by comparison with anything in the world, ancient or modern. The gouesis of this grest building dates back almost four years, Lo 1835 @ number ef Chicag capitalists decided to tuke measures to supply one of the greatest needs of the city, and_to make the provision on a scale commensurate with the present and future requirements. It was soon realized that the initial idea, aithougn a bold and promising one, wus far beyond the actual wants, not to speak of the aspirations, of Chicago. Tho prospect erow. It was decided to build not only a grand hall, fitted for the holding of nationul conventions and of the largest pos- sible mass meetings, but to combine in the ono building also a magnificent hotel and an office block rivaling any in existence. The plans were not changed; they simply grow. For a year or more ways or means wers discussed and the elaboration of plans for the noblest structure of the nineteenth con- tury went slowly but irresistibly on inally the ground selected and ac- red. ‘Thesite occupies magnificent front- ages on Congress street, Michigan avenue, and Wabash avenue. There were threo resi- dences; a hotel and a skating rink on the ground, ana these all had to be demolished. 1t was not until January, 1857, that tho work of excavation was begun. This was of itself a stupendous undertaking. The excavations for the foundations were carried 1o & uni- form depth of tweive feet below the side- walk, and the trencnes were dug out to a depth of from seventeen to twenty-five feet. Over 30,000 cubic yards of earth, sand, and clay were removed, and upon the solid clay the foundations were laid. ‘The building was begun June t, 1857, For the foundations of the maiu buwilding two transvorse layers of twelve-inch timber were first laid. Avove these came a five- foot layer ot concrete, and in this three layers of railroad bars and T beams were imbedded. Tho enormous tower required special treatment. Tts foundations wero made doubly s laying them on the same plan as that used in the main buiiding, but using double thickness of timber and concrete and flve layers of railroad iron, To guard agaist inequatity of settioment the tower was loaded with a weight equal, foot for foot, with that borne by the completed portion. More than eight hundred tous of pig- wron,in addition to the vast loads of brick, were used to weight the foundations of the tower, As the superiucumbent masonry was put in place the temporary Joad was romoved, and when the buildiug was completed tower and main structure stood as one, without crack, flaw, or joint. There was absolutely no settlement in any part of the building, The worlk progrossed steadily and without @ break from its initation 10 its successful completion, The building has a total street frontage of 710 feet, of which 362 are on Cougress street, 187 'on Michigan avenue, and 141 on Wabash svenue. The tower weighs 16,000 tons, thero are 15,000,000 of brick in the building, and the amount of masonry and iron invoived is almost incal- culable; e MUSICAL AND DRAMATIO, Patti has arrived. surplus is settled. Wales. Samuel Brad: actor, died rece aged ninety-six, A new burlesque is called “My Sister's Hair.' It is a take-off, of course, and will be “done up' in the pape It is reported that J, K. Emmet will pack De Wolf Hopper's provosed comic opera en- terprise next summer. P. 1. Barnum is anxious to buy Patti's castle at Craig-y-Nos, Wales, and end his days in that picturesque place. “The attempt to establish a Frele Buhne or Theater Labre at Berlin after the Par n ;m:dul does not promise 1o be very success- ul. The Italians manage to keep in ofice, for they have just elected him provine! councillor of ~ Corwemaggiore. ie has for years been in politics aud parlia- mont, Mrs. Langtry is said to have ‘mnade up' with her husbaud. I this is trae he will probably be boss of the box ofice at the St. James theater, London, when the Lily's secuson bewius there. Little Olive Berkeley, one of the cleverest child actresses ever bora in America, has scorcd & triumph as Little Lord Fauntleroy in Australia. Toe critics of the autipodes regard her as a_wonder, aud never tire of singing her praise Dockstader's winstrels have given up the ghost. The theater is closed and Lew Dock- stader has ed to Philadelphis. 1t 1n said that “"T'he Taullapoosa’ proved to be the last needle on the burnt cork camel's back, Mury Anderson, according to the Loudon correspondent of & Mauchester newspaper, is studying the part of Miranda an 1 plauning an elaborate spectacular revival of *Ihe Tem pest.” The character ought to suit her ad- wirably. Mudame Patti has signed with the Messrs, The question of the She will take it home to aw, the oldest American ly at St Johnland, L. L, Verdi attending PAGES. (KHYERYBODY?Y LOOK AT THIS. Overcoals for Children and Larger Boys 2 Years to 17 Years. We have deliberately cut the prices on this clags of goods to bed rock figures. No dealers in clothing have ever before dared to put the prices on garments that you will find in this department. Millions of high-class $3.50 and $4 $3, $4 and $ rments every Buys a good Cape Ove WE DESIGN and MANUFACTURE year and offer you only the newest patterns and latest styles, and at prices that simply defy all attempts at competition, Gome in, Look Carefully and Be Convinced. coat for Boys from 3 Buys one of our beautiful Kile Suits. Gives you your choice of a splendid assortment of Knee, Pants Suits. $4 OO buys a good wearing, warm School Suit. . $5.0 $5.00 $6.00 $7.50 $8.00 $9.00 $10. years up. Every onc of them! Buys a nobby, vest front, Knce Pants Suit, 4 BARGAINS! You are sure to say this when you once get to sce the magnificent assortment of Overcoats, both short and long, that these prices will cause us to place before you. THE CHANGE OF A LIFETIME Isall we have to say in conclusion. The prices we have put on these goods are sure to clean them out rapidly. Browning, King & Co., THE LEADING CLOTHIERS, Sonthwest Corner 15th and Douglas Sts., Omaha. land, for a nder their 100 for every rsinging 4n Harrison of Birmingham, turee years’ tour from ne: direction. She is to receiv concert in London and $ small cities. Lily Belmore, pany, has received from Awmerican present engagement, nothing unprofessiol contractand to Barrett. Gilbert and Sullivan’s new opera will be presented under_D'Oyley Carte's own man- ugement ut the New Kk theater, in New York. It is called ‘“The Gondoliers,” and its scenes are laid in Venice aud Spain. 'The English company for its presentation wiil sail for this city next Tuesday Bronson Howard, the successful play- wright, is a small, clean-cut man in middle life, He wears eye-glasses and a mustache. He does not look auy more imaginative than does William D. Howells, In fuct theso two successful wieiders of the pen look more like brokers or bankers than like literary men. The house occupiea by Sarah Siddons in London during the later years of her life is now to let. It stauds at the northern ex- tremity of Upper Baker street,and the threc wall, narrow windows of the spacious draw- ingroom, built specially for her use, com- mand a full view of the Regeat’s park through Clarence Gate. A very painful scene was witnessed the other night at the performance of a play called *“The Hypochondriac” at tho Deutsches Volkstheater, Vienna. The actor who played the title part went mad in tho first act, and after various futile efforts had been made to conceal his truo condition from the audionce, the curtain was lowered and the play abruptly ended. Another proof of the hold which Mlle. Riiea’s Josephine and the merit of her new play, **Joscphine, Empress of the French,” Imu taken of public taste, is the fact that dur- ing the past two weeks she pluyed i Michi- gan to big business despite the storms, which were well nigh incessant. Her impersona- tion and ber play combived make ner the dramatic success of this season, iilbert and Sullivan have revived their youth, “The Gondoliers,” the new opera dis- tinctly takes rank with “Pinafore,”" ‘‘Pa- uience,” and *“The Mikado,” alike in quality of musie, humor of libretto, and picturesque As a musical work, indeed, it is as Dbright and coarming as Sullivan's best in spirations in his earlier style, and perhaps contains more really likable tines than any other of the long series, though only one or two which the public will cateh and memor- ize. of Wilson Bareett's co no less than four offer: managers to break her She says she will do but will stick to her i CONNUBIALITIES. A man is usually called & birdie a week after marriage and a night owl a year later. Jeft Davis' eldest daughtor warried J. Ad- ison Hayes, a Memphis banker, about ten years ago. The reportod engagement of Singh to s New York bello is denied. will remain Singhle, Uncle Jorome Smith of Lovington. Mo., is ninety-one yearsold. He has been murried three times, and 18 now lookiug for a fourth wife, A Reading, Pa., girl postponed ner wed- ding becauss she wus unablo to securo the white Lorse ownoed by u certin livery- man for the date she had tixed. When & darling girl says, It is so sudden, (leorge, give me time to toink,’” she meavs that shé has been expecting it for a year.and husn’t thought of much else in that time, Meissonier. sinco his recout marriage, has seemed 10 10se his ambition, He spends but @ few hours a day in his studio and does a great deal of aimless sketobivg and daubing. Miss Nottaken—I have concluded not to accept Mr. Charlton’s proposition. Miss To- botaken—Why noti His worldly prospec are good. Miss Nottaken—Yes, but those are all he has. Jane Detheridge of Kingston, Jamaica, has refused thivty-seven offors of murriage. Jaoo bus $1,000,000 aud 18 an orphan, She does not think she can afford a husband who cares only for her money. Miss Leonora Younger—What a lovely In fact it is too lovely to remain What would jou propose! Mr. Winters (twining sn arm around her waist) —Marriage, Leonora, dear, mart iage. The latest version of *The Girl I Left Be- hind Me" comes from California. In this case the young man did not seem to realize the girl's attractions untii he got across the coutinent and theu, after 4 vear or two of hard work in California and with the pros- pect of wealth before him, he bethought bimself of a young lady who used to be a shoolmate of his in e, Ho wrote to her Dhuleop He to see if she had forgotten him. She hudn’t, and cordiully answered the letter. The re- tura mail brought a proposal of macriage, which was accepted. A ticket for Catifornia came next, and though her friends did not quite apy of the journey, the young lady started. Unlike some who have made simi- lar trips, she liked both the farm awaiting er and its possossor even betier Lhan she thouaht she did before she saw thom. The wedding came next. and everybody wag bhuppy at last account HONEY LADLES. Stiff collarettes, girdles and epuhilets of jot are very stylisi, The cuddlesome @irl rejoices over the ap- proach of cool weuther. White cloths are effectively tronmed with ! nette of medium height. black braid and edged with dark furs. Flounces have appeared upon dressy winter toilets, dinner costumes, aud toa-gowns. A charming agjunct for a chateluin is a tiny mail pouch iu oxidized silver, for stamps, Mrs, Cleveland has taken up a new fancy in dressing her huir. She now parts it on the left side. Dresses are to be much trimmed with astrachan this winter, whether in its natural tint of gray or in black. Mrs. Quay, wife of the senator, is a bru- She has a kindly face and winning ways. New Yorker—Why do you like au armory 80 much! Vassar Girls—Beczuse thera are 50 ANy strong arws there, Mrs. Shaw, the famous whistler, has had a photograph taken of herscif in London which is over niue feet high, “Was Miss Yellowleal’s portrait a good likenesst” ‘It wust have been; she re- fused to take it from the artist.” Charged that all the girls in Philadelpnia turn their toes in. This seems sad, but it makes more roow ou the sidewalk, It is a foolish girl who sends her small brother into the parlor to entertain her young man while she is getting ready. Mrs. Margaret Custer-Calhoun, a sister of the late General Custer, 1s gaining quite & reputation in New York as a parlor elocu- tionst. Kate Field will call her new paper Wash- ington, probably becausa she intends that it shall never tell & lie and shall be tirst in everythiug. Biack lace gowns are mounted on black arephane, with a petticoat of black satin, Sometimes the entire underdress is of pure white velvet, From a oelebrated shop in Paris comes & stylish dinner gown of soft lustrous Kast Iudia broche silk showing clusters of pale pink wild roses with yellow hearts on a ground of mignonette green, Feattier trunming is much used as a bor~ dering to the silk Connemoras linea with plush, intended as wraps for evening wear. It1s then used for this purpose about six inches i width, Silvered grasses, thistles, ‘‘dusty willer"” leaves, and a creat deal of fiue silver orna~ wentation are used on net or tulle, these trimmings rivaling the pearl bead and gold passementeries in fuyor. Although the coiffure of the present ti quires less artificial bair than when the ylos were more elaborate, still the demand for false tresses will never be wholly past 80 iong as scant locks require supplementing, The uitra-flat, bustleless, wireless, steel less gowns now wWorn by cxtremists are just asdudicrous, inartistic, and unbecoming as wf® insane-looking, cxuggerated, wobbling Lournure ever was iu its most extreme pro- portions, Geuuine Scotch tweeds, cheviots, Germun broadeloth, and protective woolens will be wort during the advance of colder weathor, Some of these }’ul'rififl look extremely thick—almost blanket- ke, Charming afternoou dresses of [ndia cash- mere or French camel’s hair are made very effective by the liberal use of velvet or heavy sutin ribbous threo and four inches in width, theése being now more favored than fancy ribbons of any sort. For the making 7 ebutantes’ gow! heavy neiug toilets and for aported a variety of lovely gold-w. ..« lles, striped and flowered gauze. ud s ‘D exquisite even- ing tints, Persian dispurics and Pompadour silk muslins. Upon some of the sueer wool fabrics, oriental borderings in palm and aral ue natterns are heavily intorwoven with threads of bronze, copper and gold, These borders vary from four mches to balf 4 yaed in width, and the matorials are in great use for 24 gowus sud boudoir robes, .