Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, June 30, 1889, Page 7

A UNIQUE NEW INDUSTRY. { Desirable Revolution in the Clothing Trade. WHITE SLAVERY ABOLISHED. The Foul Sweating System and : Its New Rival. SOME SIGNS OF THE TIMES, “Wholesale Tailors Means, What A TAILOR SHOP EMPLOYING 2,000 HANDS, Facts and Figures for the Million. Interesting Chapter About Garments ~A Mine of Information on Men Attire — The Disgraceful Contract System Compared With the New Methods — A Visit Clothing City- Brains, Humanity and Oapital—The Humane [ Rochester, the Largest and Most Complete Tailor Shop in the World—A No ble Struc ture—A Wonderful System—Happy Employees— Il Art—Cheap Olothing Versus mphs of the Tail_ or's Clothing Cheap. “X.ot thoso now dress who never dressed before, And thoso who dressed now dress the more.” 1—~THE NEW ADVOCATION. £57| OR a long timo 1 have ] been collecting signs. Whenover I 8ec one which strikes meas odd, | lke « Capt. Cuttle. 1 “make a note of it." ‘The fi1stone in my note- book is “Cast Iron Sinks, & statement that seems nnnecossary to well infor- med people, 1t 13 fol- 1owed by one fn whieh the public is requested to “Call and Examine Our Stock Before Purchas- Anc elsewhere, and that by one offering to *Black Your Boots Tuside.”” There is one Philadelphia firm namea “Nice & Good, Sash and Door- makers” and a Chicago houso “Schweitzer & Beer, Fan 'y Goods.” And there {5 one said to be genuine as follows: *Freeman & Huges, Select Behool, Freeman Teaches the Boys and Huggs the Girls." = Passing down Broadway the other day, in the nelgnborhood of Bond street, my attention was attracted by a very original sign at No. 653, the wording thereon belng w novel one, namel; WHOLESALE TAILORS. “Custom tatlors” was as familar as tho nose on my face; “wholesale clothiers” asiwell; but swholesplo taflors” seenied to be a new depar- ture. The prospect of getting somethiug new for my collection was to much for me, so 1 walked in und accosted the first man I came across, 3 “What are ‘wholesale tailors,” and who are they, and why are they *wholesale tatlors,’ and how many of them are there in the country, and how long have there been any hore; aud tell us all about it anyway? “Gently! Gently! 'Wholesale tallors' are simply custom tailors on alarge scate, Our firm is Stein, Bloch & Co., of Rochester, ‘whom not $o know argues yourself unknown:, we are Wholesale tailors Decauso we ars mot wholesalo clothiers, in the ordinary sense of the word, and Dbecause we are nothing else but wholosale tail- ors. Wouse tho expression ‘wholesale tailors' bocause there is no other word to express our ocoupation, and we have copyrighted it to dis- tingush it and our productions from ordinary reudy-made clothing. Wo oviginated both the ‘business mothods and the business expression, and thero i3 no other fiym in the world to which the term will apply. We make up in enormous quantitles fashiona: blo apparel for gentlemon, boys and children, following in every detail of manutacture the methods and styles in vogue among the lead. ing fine custom tailors of Fifth avenue and a8 the Dbest 1n worid—and using tho me substantisl ana tastotul fabrics and har- monious trimmings that they do; but by our unequalled menufacturing facilities and jndic- fous use of unlimited capital making the cost to the consumer almost as low as that of ordinary ready-made clothing. We are as particular to satisty our million eustomers a3 the high-toned tadlor 1s to please the most particnlar “swell” oB his list. Tho result of our skill, capital and cave 1 clothing which auy gentloman, howeyor precise or stylish a dressor, need not be ashamed to wear on any occaslon, We give everybody lit- oral “iits,” no matier what his size, shape or rovious condition of servitude, As wholescle’ lors we hayeno desire to compete with whols- #8le clothiers in the production of inferior work; e 18, of Inforior materials ot by a careless TAILORESSES. and ineficlent system with the sole ldea of meeting a fictitionsly low price which reckless competition demands, Such work has to reoc- commend 1t nothing but low first cost. & recom- mendation which soon 1oscs itk effectiveness, IL<THE OLD WAY-~WHITE SLAVERY. “The ordinary ready-made elothing sold by staring signs and lying display advertisements 18 made up to sell cheaply; thrown together slouchily in filthy tenement-houses under the sweating system of starvation wages for wo- men and chitdren; a syatem which 14 & combin- ation of unskilled labor and disonse, and in which, as the makers name never appears on the garments or even on the tickets, the respon- sibility for poor workmanship and baa mater- 181 ean never be fixed, Now, per contra—which 18 & Latin expression that Ilike to work in oc- easfonaly—Stein, Bloch & Co's clothing is made in the largest and cleancst tatior shop in the world and by thoroughly exverfenced tailors under the immediate supervision of the firm, *“The thoroughly American method of manu- facturs 50 well carried out by our house 1s in direct oppesition to the sweating system which 80 disgraces this wonderful metropolls and {ts boasted civiiizat on.” Now, thoroughly interested by my inform- aut’s enthusiasm. T inquired; “What 13 this ‘sweating system’ bug-a-boo?" *1 don't ask you to take my unsnpported word for what seem’s as impossfbie as 1t 18 Alsgrace- ful. Here 18 what the Inspector of factories of New York Stato says in iis last official report: OIFICIAL CONDEMNATION, In Now York City, {n the tenement-house dis- tricts where clothing Is manufactured, there exists a system of lnbor which is as noarly akin to slavery as it is pos- sible to get. The work is done under the eyes of taskmasters. who rent a small room Or two in the rear part of an upper tioor of & high butlding, put in a few sewlng machines, & stove sultable for heating Irons, and then hire a number of men and women to work for them. ‘The “boss™ or “sweator as he is colloquially called, obtains from some wholesale clothing manutacturer a stook of ready-cut material from which to mako up coats, pantaloons, vests or other wearing apparel, and this is brought to OMAHA DAILY BEE things that baggars description. Men, women and children viled together in & squirming mass like maggots in & oheess, in notsome quar- ters, not ouly in broken-backed attics, but in Adamp and roeking cellars: lap-boards, tables, sewing-machines, stoves for heating thefr irons, all intermingled with a mass of what might pass for humanity in these days of boasted progress; women nursing squalid babes at poor, lean broasts in full sight of their fellow slaves of the other sex, who were dressed with but little regard for decency, in but two garments—an undershirt and trousers—and these foul with prespiration and other dirt, and fli-fastened; some eating off their machine tables, others proparing or heating thelr mis- erable noonday meal over the gas-evolying stoves, which seryed to heat their pressin frons. From 6 in the morning, often to 13 A night, these white slaves of the needle !and shears tolled in theso grimy, stifiing quarters in this degarded way in order to keep their mis- erable bodles and thelr {ll-cared-for souls to- gether, They were not “butchercd to make a Roman holiday,” but starved and grouna down to help adorn an American Sunday or an American week-lay, Health, comfort, what of those coufd there bo? Morality? Need we expect it? Intelli- gence? There is nomo displayed. They are bensts of foul burden, with unceastng hours ot pitlable toll, which they may not change, forthey know but the one trade--and do not even well know that, But 1 was resolved, sickening though the de- tafls were, to probe the matter to the bottom; 80, offecting incredulity as to this being a com* mon thing, 1 said. “Oh, well, these people would huve bosn even worse off in the other country.” “Do you think such 'And fn ¥heso quarters where no civil. zed belng ever gets unless he is hunt- ing a criminal, we may oxpect to fnd disgeace- ful things. The system at least keeps them to. gether and provents thisclass from degrading our American work people. They stayin their own distrio “Do they? Well, Broadway itselt is just as full of them. Tt s not only the rattle,trap shan. tles and tumble-down rookeries which have such sights and sounds..1 can take you to groat iron -fronted bulldings of our main artery of t ravel, where thesame thing 1s to be found.” THR SICKENING PROOF. Well, within a blo:k of the Grand Central thing possivle? WORK ROOM NO. 4—STEIN, BLOCH & €O'S WHOLESALE TAILOR SHOP, ROCHESTER the rented apartments. Men and women are then hired, the average number being ahout elght, and these zo to work on the goods furnish- ed. * * * They begin work usunily at 6.5) in the morning and continue until9 cr 10o'clock at night, with probabiy a total of thirty minutes’ intermission for the purpose of eating. They usually eat and sleep in the same room whers the work 18 carried on, and the dinginess, squalor and fiith surrounding them are abomin- ablo. ‘Tliousunds of youg girls, boys and women as well as men are subject to this life of dirt, drudgery and debasement from one end f tho year to the other. Thoreisnoray of hope for them, * + * The ract that parents must sign and swear to ® certificate of the age of their children gives us an excellent opportunity of seelrg for ourselves the number of persons who are incompetent to even sign their own names. It is something ustonishing and hardly credible that a considerable portion of these parcnts have been here or wers brought here at an early uge. Their children ate not much, if any better furespect to education. “Oh, Tdon't belleve that even the devil is as black as he is painted, If tho factory in- spector didn't pile on the agony the people wonld think that there 13 0o necessity for an in- spector, and he would lose his placo. While he is saying one word for the workers he is puiting in ten for the inspector of tactores. I will just take off about 75 aud 10 and 21 per cent, for cash on what he says, and then it will prolably be about right.” I suppose that you will belleve the evidence of your own oyes?" “Sooner than anything else.” “Will you put on your hat and come with me not very many blocks from whera this stream of more or loss wall-dressed people {s making of Broadway the most picturesque and rasciuating surewt on the face of this foot-stool MAN'S INHUMANITY 0 MAN, Following my guide, whose euthusiasm seomed Indeed Lornof the truth. 1 pene- trated the purheus of Ludlow and Hester streets, of which 1 had often heard but con- cerning which 1 kmew litly except what might be gained by a ecasual, diszusted glauce. There 1 found @ condition of Dotel T found the same thing practl peated. While my guide had been carctul to “naught extenuate,” he had been eguaily just in that he had notv set down ught in malice. In a room forty by fifty feet I found 500 people working just ns 1 had found them in East Broadway—the same sickening scenes, the samo sad sounds of hollow congh and unintelli- gent and iufrequent speech, and tho same piles of clothing, reeking with the pestilenc: despite their gaudy linings, As we returned to the “wholesale tailors' " store on Broadway I resumed my questioning— tar loss confident. at hcart, but determined io show by no word or look that T was convinced, “Well, it 18 vory probably ‘Satan reproving sin’ Very likoly, if the truth were known, your clothes are made fn just about the same way, by just aboutthe same grade of people: only you have the advantago over your rivaly that your factory is 400 miles away from the center 1y re- of trade and caunot 8o readily be inspected; and it takes a few more cents & week to keep lite in_these toilers hers than in those who sweat their lives out for yon in Rochester—if you really make your clothes thes This was gall and bitterness to THE CUALLEN “Go to Rochester in the ve.y next traln if you wish. Ask any man, boy or child upon the street to direct you to Stein, Bloch & Co.'s fuc- tory. Annonnce yourself as from the World, or not, just as youplease. Stute that you are collecting information about the sweating sys- tem—or, If it suits you better, do not say s0. Go through the factory from cellar to roof. Pick up any garment you please, in any work-room, and examinelt. Tnquire of any workman or workwoman (there aro ot so many of the lat- ter in proportion as there is in New York, they stay at home aud attend to their lttle houses) as to his of her condition and that of hisor her fellows. Ask anybody in any street inthe city it Stein, Bloch & Co.’s people are not to by en- vied; and it the way they are treated is not el- evating the candition of every working person n the town, no matter what his or her occupa- tion. It you do not, of your own fres will, ac- Kknowledge that everything that I have safd is true and correct, down Lo the last fota, we will footyour bills.” “A very neat bluff, young man; but as L was born on the upper Mississippi where blufls are anevery-duy fosture ot the landscape, I will Just take you up.” And sol went hone, got my wy friend, AP /A =ES /; =3 A QUTTING KOO, 14,000 SQUARE FEET—STEIN, BLOCK & CO'S WHOLYSALE TAILOR SHOP, \ {1 AL STOUK KOOM NO. $-STEIN, BLOCH & C i ’],IM rereaggy '8 WHOLESALE TAILOR SHOK, supper, took & spare collar ete., and embarked in the® p. m, train tor the Clothing City. 11.—ROCHESTER, THE CLOTHING CITY, 1 foun A boautitul but bustnes streets, palatial residences, cosy cottages, im- posiug taciories, fine 10wering commercial es- tublishiments, immense hotels, uncqualied rail- rond factiities, an enviable water power, bus'l. ing citizens, commodious schools, numerous churches, charming drives and a geaeral alr of go-ahuaditiveness and prosperity, 4 superd city of 160,000 fuhabitauts— like place. with wido After & comfortable broakfast at the maguiti- cent five proof Powers hotel, 1 inquired of a street urchin: “Sonny, can yon tell me where Steln, Bloch & Co.'s factory 187" “Can Itell you whers Rochester 157 sald the youugster sarcastically. Go aloog up the main Btreet four blocks until you come to North St. Paul street, and turn to your left until you come to the finest building on the street, It's on the right hand side and you will know 1t by its not having any sign on to toll you what it 15, 1t you forget what I'm u-tolling you, Ask any- body you seo. Now this, be it remembered, was fu 4 city which was full of giant clothing factories (meaniug glant manutucturies of clothing, not factorios where they Wake germents for glants), L Adl]] | | 1 =7 Z 7 N PV [jj» > B EXTERIOR VIEW—STEIN, BLOCH & C0'S WHOLESALE TAILOR S8HOP, ROCHFSTOR. 1V.-A PALACE OF INDUSTRY. 1 came to one of the finest business blocks in Te United States, a noblo plo, s olid and tast e ul: Romanesque in its principal fea tures, with the lower storles carried on plors of Scotch red- stone, with finely carved capitals supporting girders of tho same. Above, & simple pler and girder construction of moulded and glazed bricks of dark red, brown and_chocolate, With ormamented string courses and panels. Arrived at the factory (the undoubted gen- eral public acquaintance with which I fully tested on the way over) T was most courteously vod; then T announced my desire to go through the factory for the purpose of compat- ing it with others in which I had been. I was told that T might go through alone if T pre ferred, or a young man, familiar with details, would be assigned as my guide, or if I would take my chances the members of the firm and heads of departments would passme from one to theothers, 1 chose the latter,and with thesenfor member of the firm staited out on that tour of inspec- tion which I teit certain as soon as I entered the handsome portal, Was v, prove me a false prophet ; “Are you much bothéFeil with visitors?” e have & great mafy, but don’t consider them a bother. We a#é broud of the fact that people consider our establlsliment worthy of a visit,"” ) Who planned this stru first question. gel iNe interior was plafilod by the members of the firm o that every unnecessary step should be spared and that everything should be ju:t in the right place, ‘I'he powition, size and general character of ench department and room’ being settled upon, and the Whole combined into & harmonious entirety, the services of a capable architect, Mr. Charlcs 8. Ellis, were ealled into Pliy towhrkup the puiedy. technical dotails of ‘constru‘tion. = And thy;sume with the ex- terior: the members of,the firm decided upon ctly what they wishied and had the archi- tect eliborate the detais:for the bullders to work from,” - s {ow large 18 the pregent buildine:” Jur log is 240x66 teet Wi the bullding covers 20300 feet, compristmgssix stores, each of which. as well as the bysement, (13 of the tull size.of the builiing, S0 tiiaf thord are devoted to the purposes of muiufdcture, accounting and salea floor space of about 10),000 sjuare feet, or hout two and a half acres, every portion of which, as you will see, i8 not only well lighted from without, but i3 in" addition liver- ally supplied with incandescent electric lights. “*How many hands can you work here! *Ihe bujlding Las capacity for 2000 employ- ees, outside of the counting room ““Any outside hands or homs workers? “No: practically all the work{s done on the premises.” A MODEL ESTABLISHMENT, Guided by oneof the firm T went nll over the great builaing, in tne order in which the goods %o in béing roceived, stored, made up and shipped. and T quoto bis runniuz comments— “Youwill see,” said my gu'de, little distance on ths wall of each room o all roady o be pulled out and put in vice, Each hose is att; 110 uspecial fire service pipes that are used for no other purpose and which are supplied by a fire pump driven by un electric motor, und which can throw 53 gillons a minute, 50 that we make assuranc doubly sure. Wé are not runuing any risks Our business 1s too well establishea to make burning out desirable ot profitable.” Ivery part of thie esthblishment is in con- nection with every other department by a new systom of electric and acoustic. mter-communi- cation. *“The sanitary appliances on every floor for the use of employees are commodious, convi nient and tnosough in eyery particular, offer- ing a marked contrast with the usage in other establishments and evincing on_the part of the firm a wa t *nful interest in the heaith ana wel- fore of their employees, from the highest to the least important. No buliding (n tlie country {5 more Iborally supplied with incandescent electric lights,there being no less than six hundred sockets, and pendant lamps, whics will thoroughly iltumi- nate every portion of the floor spuce; and any P Y50D standing in any part of muy room at 1.ght would beable (o Teach out and find & lawp within arm’s length. “We haveour own electric plant bulltby the Sprague Electric Motor Company, New York, and generate our own electrieity for power and light. Eyery mach ne of the mauy in the place is driven by the sume invis ble cirrent which suppliesthe artifictal light in dark and rainy ther: for op avy falr diny when 1t is light 1gh to sec out of doors, there is in uny part of this weli illumivated establishment, sulli cicut daylight to work by L want to impress upon, you,” sald my con- ductor, “that all these lmprovements and con- venionces are simply to suve time not to gratify a whim, however laudable it might be, of hav. ing the most ecmplete and convenient estab. Iishment of the kind in the world. Whatever b2 provided to save time and expense, has Daen put in, no matter at what cost, ior time is n {mportant factor iu this business, where or- Qs are often rocelyed at in the afternoon for goods to be on a train which starts at 8 that sume evenlng. A most admirable plece of brag! Worihy of Barnum! Reminds me of the firm which sald that 1t saved 31,000 & yoar in ink alone by order- ing 1ts clorks never t) oross a tnor dot an . “well, truth is sometimes stranger than fio- tion. (n one occasion a fow Weeks 20 a sales- man took at 4 o'c'ock on Thursday evening, from a New York house, an order amounting 1o 825,000 conditioned on -ifs. being filled within twenty-four hours, Ourstick was 5o Large ana our fa 1'itles z0 perfect ¥«f all the goods were on the train at 8 that evémng and for sale ou the New York counters i@ next moraing at 9 V.—~STEIN, BLOCH & CO, 8 WAY. *“T'he piece goods are delivered in the rear of tho bullding. First golg,o the cellar, where they are opeued and wrfstinte for, they are next taken to the piecdlgods stock' rooms on thie third und fourth fiobw where wo will now B ettt are?'" was almost my BPONGING ROOM. In.reply to & query my conductor ral “While we use a large quantity of imported £o04'1n 116 WOk, We b6 the very best of the product of all the leading Americin miils, and tue same with trimmings as with woolens. It i8 OUF Dolicy to USH In every deparimont none but stelgtly ll wool geads, ¥ (hat the label ot Stein, Bbeh & Co. will be ‘s guarantee that all is wool. We are mroud to b able to say with trath that our label upon a sait of clothes or an articlo of clothing bas the same guarantee as 10 its superlative excellence and worth as the DOmo Of JUrgensen has Upon a Wateh or Stein- way upon plana. It means that the aricles to which it 15 affixed are of the very best which can be produced st any price, and that every pains Lias Leen taken that (e state of the art calls fox or will admit. If you oF any oue can show us how to make our garments better, we Want to know it and will do it. “By reason of our fmmonse purchages wo ob- tain plece £0ods Whist are absolutely notpur- chasable clsewners. Sometimes, where the cloth and style come up to the buyer's judg- ment, and where the exclusive use of the pat- tern ¢an bo gaaranteed, wo take the entire pro- duction of the mill, and the firm actually does control the product of several domestic mills, thereby owning piece goods at less than the average maunufacturer can buy them for, Vhen re juired, they aretaken to the exam- ining and &ponging 10 m, on the third feor Here every yard o1 goods Pas-es over s frame in full sunlight, and any faults that may exist, as picks, helos, differences in shade, do color o Weave, are noted by the expert cye the trained examiner. Should 8 exist the g0 s at once returced to the maks under clrcumstances ave any imper goods worked u, “Atter thoroush examination the goods are sent sponging-room, where, on machines of thi approved patterns,’ they roceive the steamini necessary to shrink thein perms nently, rendering any fature sirinkage abso- Tutely ‘impo-sible. ATe the goods now ready to be eut into?" Yes; but te’o'e there muast have been pro. pared by the membe s of the firm new, original and appropr uns which will'suii the popular taste. des s Laving been pro- pared o that thereshall b2 harmony in out ire and in color, the trimer steps in with a se'e - tion wh'ch will harmonize with the cloth. Then the standurd patterns are cut and others made therefrom. The original patterns are keptin a |Ir>-’pnm{\ ult, so that in case of any accldent to the working patterns they eould ‘be ‘at once replaced and the vwork go on with but & few minntes interruption. The patterns ( "that there 1s | | are made up new twice every year, *“Tlhe trimmings are cnt ready for use with the pil ! t of the work being done very largely by o1y, spacial care be- ingz taken that the trimmings for cach kind and color of oods shall be appropriate as well as hanlsome.” QUIET ELEGANCE. “Rather quiet styles of linings, nicht wahr?” Vell, you see we are not making ‘hana-me- downs.” "We wish to attract attention to the quality of the goods. If we were to make them of loud colors the quality might be passed by. As it I3, the absolute fineness aud richness of the ma- terlal challenges inspect- on; and that s halt the in ordinary ¥ le clothing ork there are three col: 5 of linings used for TAILOR. cach class of goods irres. pectiveof whether they go well with the body Tabric or not; thoy are loud and flashy, and sei- dom-—and then only by accident—harmonize with the gocds with which they are assembled. But as we aro wholesale tailors and not whole sale clothlers, we aro stuply dotug fashiouavls taflor work oh a large soalo, *As all our trimmings are made to our ordor and to match the goods, the clothing made by s 15 1n fact in petter taste throughout than cau be had from nire custom tailors ouy of ten, becanse none of these custom tailors canhave all thefr linings, facings, buttons and other trimmings made especially to match the cloth withi which they are uscd, Further, no custom tailor, however important, can afford to carry such an immense variety as we are compelled to (o by reason of our tacit agreement to sell no two dealers in any town thesame putterns, “We now goto the cuitingroom, where the real urtists of the tailoring teadé are to be found, In the busy season we employ nin ety, ns skiiled and exyerionced as money can get, they have 14,000 square feet of floor space, & fifteen foot ceiling und windows on every side. *“The goods having vesn cut and assémbled with the proper tasteful trimmings, go to the workrooms on tho first and second flcors, where every other operation is performed to make them completed garments. These {mmenso tailor Nllnph glve working place for 700 hands, and that theso are not crowded is shown by the fact that they have for their accommodation ,000 square feot; of floor space, while the ceil- ing heignt 18 fifteon feet. “In the sto-k-rooms for made-up goods there 18 in & space 66x203 feet about 400,000 worth of finished goods awaiting shipment.” The sample rooms are admirably arranged for the reception seloction and aisplay of Lhe gArments, every cility in the way of tables, racks and the like be- ing ‘afforded, and the light which streams in from tne front of the building offering full op- Fportunity for the display of arustic beauty er the detection of possible detects.” You do not seem much afraid of lght? “No why shonld wer We want all the Mght that can be got thrown on_our work and our methods. If there is anything wropg we wish to know it; and what there 1s good we want our customers to know. We have let in all the sunlight that it 15 feasi- ble to provide (you can't make a building all win- dows, yon know, espe- clally when you carry us Leuvy stock s we o of |2 such heavy goods as clothing), and there i electrlc light enough in thisroom to tan your skin (or freckle it if you ara built that way) as thoroughly as thonghyon n the middlo of the street on & bright all through the work of de sign and manufacture a most mechunical and a 5ok Y = fitmost cate 1a exarcised to produce the very best effect by the best material and workmag: . For instance, every buttonhole in tiy establishment Is made by hand. Take this one (hunding me a garment) “and compare the but- tonholes with those in that really ine cost you have on. 1Ts yours as good?" 1had to adinit that the “‘rendy-made" button. Bolo was the best. +“There 15 no wholesal clothier in the country who puls hand.made buttonholes on all his ‘work, as the hetter grade of custom tailors do. Every pocket is double stayed; every button sewed on l\nul( and the same attontion pald to the hidden 1nsfde work as to that which shows There is none of the patching and piecing so oftenscen in ready-mado clothing, Every gar- ment ‘s cut from whole 0loth, &s with custom- made work *“The rarments made hore have no ‘padding’ ut into them, They are made to it »{ proper €8an, properoutting and proper putting to- gether! 50 tht 1o EAIAIng 13 necessary: in con: sequen_e of which they not only fit at first, but tain thefr shaps, which caunot be sala of ded clothes. Inall the Stein, Bloch & Co. ‘ments all the raw edges of the goods are overcast, this being dono by & spectal machine, which is the only one in this conntry waich will do this work. "All the trousers pockets aro overcastns well, Rven in the matter of the thread used for kowing, we use nothing but the product of the Leonard Silk company, Ware- ouse Point, Conn, believeing it to bé the best made, 50 thit every seam i3 strong, neat and aurablo; overy button is hand-made and is sewed ot roumded and fastoned with as_ much care a3 thongh the entire comfort And_ Succoss of the garmcut deponded upon tho button stay- ng.' The parts are made by journeymen taliors, ustas though they wore being made n cus: om tailor's shop, “1ho establisiment of Steln, IN:L')! & Uo, 811 fact_un imimense custom tail or's shop employing 700 journeymen instoad of £r0m 10 Lo & sCOFe. There seems to be no detatl which 18 consia ed =0 trifilng as 1o be slighted. The firm ev dently bears in mind the remark of Michae Ange o, who, when asked why 110 spent 8o much timoe upon trifles in finlshing a statue, replicd: *“Triflos make perfoction, and perfection I no " In fact, carcful attention to detall has ada Sto 1och & Co. garments v are rip Proof, tear-proot and practically wear proof. Any ono can find {n ordinnry garments sins of omisslon and commission, Jut optics sharp it noeds, I Woan, T0 80w WHAL 18 510% 10 bo 500D, THE LABOR PRODLEM SOLVED, *Do you have any trouvle in connection with the 50 called labor’ problem?” “No: we do not, nover did havo and neverox- pect to linve. W wera tho first voluntarily to ntroduce the nine-hour system, which s ox- tended not only to our men, but to every woman and child. There bas never been any trouble between iis and our omployeos, tho Iatter being 00 well contented with the wages which they earn and the treatment which they recelye to permit themselyes to consider thefr own Inter. CSts A8 I anv_way confiicting with those of their craployers. ‘ihey know when they are well off, “Tney ara practically participants in our profits, wifhont running any isks on collec- tions. Many of thom have boen with us for nearly a quarter of & contury. HEALTHY AND PROSPEROUS ENTLOYERS, “We omploy the best labor that can be had, and retatnit year in and year out to do the best work that skill and -experience ean produ 0 0one i8 engaged I)Y the plece nor even by the weok only, and this being tho case, no workman has any renson for hurrying throngh unncces: sarily nor for hastening wo ’i{lu its detriment a8 though he were working by plece ork: his only Incitement ix to (o the best. work that can be done, and to do {tas raplaly as perfection in work will permit. These are his passports to permanent employment, A careless man would ‘get the bounce’ in short ordor. A good one is encouraged and never has an fdle duy. By this s m ench workman zets mors for his vork than if he were employed in high prico during the bisy season, and by liviug fn_Rochester, which 13 pre-emi: nently a city of dwellings,and naving steady em- plhyment the year round, he is enabled to make for himself a home. Being thus a fixture, he can do Stein, Bloch & Co.'s work better than a raw recruit ¢ould. and we 10se 1o time and mi- terlal breaking jn mew hands ull the timo, Then, too, each workman loarns to do one thing pertectly ‘and rapidly, and this {s better than having & man do one kind of work one day and anotherkind each day during the busy season. SAMPLE ROOM—STELN, BLOCH & CO.'S WHOLESALE ““Take it all in all, we are not &o much philan- thropists as you might think, We are business men, 1ot in trade for our health nor to reform Lumanity. rii- s be 1o them we can keep on making them b Wo soo that by making certain T than any one else ever has m ahend of the trade, and ke otter than any one'clse does or wili. Each man who wears one of our gar- menta tells his neighbors Low well satisfied he s, and ench workman is on the qui vive to sve thint every one bout the place givesa full day's work for his full day’s pay. Most of those engaged 1 making up the clothing are men, women being employed only as operators on the macuines and for the Hghter kinds of stitching. A1l 1ook healthy, comforta- ble and contented. The accompanying sketches of n tallor, & presser aud two tailorcsses are from photographs taken in the shops during working nours, “You seem to iaye rathor a nice 1ot of glris?, “We ought to have. Not only would we promptly dissharge any kirl whou wo thought would prove an undesirable associate for the otliers, but we are caroful about the men with whom they are bronght in contact. A man of drunken habits or immoral tendencies would get s ticket-of-leuve the moment that we found him out—s0 quick that his head would swim. The conseqence is that there {5 no time wasted {n business hours, and that careful mothers have 1o hesitancy in letting their daughters work hiers, Thus, by starting witha good grade of employees, We are constantly raising thestandard. ~ We'have the most into genvand conscienctious employes in the trade, VI.—~THE DOLLARS AND SENSE OF IT, The casual reader might think that because of the care taken in manufactucing, the cost would e excessively high, but this is 10t the case, Heavy cuslh purclisos, immonso wnd steady output, willingness to be contont with a smuil argin of profit, thorough knowledgoe of the Dusiness, systemiu!ic economy in every detall of PART OF OFFICE FLOOR—STEIN, BLOCH & CO.'S WHOLESALY TAILOR SHOP. most artistic eye, and one which 1s vigilaut and keen as well, 18 ever watchful to suggest beaus les and to datoct any dopurture trom pertect Larmony and pertect worl 1 was afireeably surprised to see fn the stock- room wany suits intended to retall at from 8i2 10 #15 just as well made snd well finished as the fine grado suits. Questioning Mr. Stein as 1o this, he sald that the hands did not know how to do slop-shop work and would uot be allowed to do 80 evan if they did, "They are pat a4 itio medium grado goods when not busy ou the higher qualivies, shus keeping thew busy tho year round and ot course enabling the cost of all to be kept low. VERINLES MAKE PERFECTION." “Inevery Mttle desall” sald my gulde, “the manufacture enable Btein. Bloch & Co., tocom: pete with makers of inferior goods, Thelr gar- ments are better money's worth than any other; and further, thoy “always lead in styls, as I found on looking tnto the matter thors oughly. Asking iy conductor about this polnt e vepiled us follows NOVELTIES AND BPECIALTIES, *“Our tirm 1s ntially and especially & nov- elty house, constantly originating new styles, 8010 of which hve becore Very popular 1 at increditably short space of tim ¢ and, of have tound their lmperfect lnitat As an example, take the case of the ‘Josef Hofmuann' hoys' sult, 50 familiar to every lover of music the couniry over; first, by reason of it having been worn by the musical prodigy, to whom it Was u-mum{ and, second, by (18 having been worn by so many bright and well drossed bo) in every state in the union, Tnd time has by when a boy's tronsers were Built upon roversible prneiple. 80 that he never knew Irhiether hie was oing o scliool oF coming from 1t; and, owing to the artistic productions of (hf fiem, 1o mother will now make the boy's trous: ora with straight legs 50 that when the knee 18 worn the legs can be cut off and turned half WAy around to present a new wenring surface. The motliers and the children themselves a now more exacting than the grown people. “Tho garments produced by us in guantities are often purchased by merchant taflors ana s0ld ns custom work, [ proof that thay are cut and made upon the enstom work sysiom the now label recently adopted therefor, jelves' the Arments in evéey pare No more wholesalo clothiers can’ do this, because tholr garments are neither cut upon any such system nor ut_together by workmen who would be capable of preservin| the acourate dimoensions, even wére they start out with originally.” exnet measures of the Houlw ‘The extraordinary economy effected in purs chasing the entire Absence of waste of time and material in manufacture, the great care that 1§ exercised throughiout the ontire Process of pro- duction, the skill brought to bear upon ever: dotatiand theunsurpassed and even unequnlle: facilities of the firm In overy department of pro- duction, aistribution and sale, are lying Adver tisements of the business and in the highest d gree feado-makers for those who purchase of thess consclentious wholesalo tallors to soll again, The business of this concorn reeches well {nto the millions yearly, and its garments are to be found exposed for Sale in first-class houses from Maine to the Colden tiate and from the St. Law- ence to the Gulf of Mexico, As wholes ile tail- ors Stein, Bloch & Co, lay their ciaim for publi; appreciation and patronage upon the actual merit of their goods. It is they wko have raised the standard of clothing in this conntry, and they who have won the world-wide reputi tion which they enjoy for fiue work and durable gurments. THE WORLD THEIR FIELD, Beslles the mammoth and unrivalled estab- lishment in Rochester, Messrs. Etein, Bloen & Bo. have permanent representatives at No. 63§ Broadway, New York, where I was first at i’ their novel and appropriate titie of “wholesale tullors;’ atthe Unit tates Hotel, Boston; Paimer 'House, Chiago; Windsor Hotel, Denver, and av Nos, 13 and 15 Sansome gtreet, fan | rancisco—this latter houso selling airect to Honoluly, Sandwich 1slands, wacted In parting and exprossing my entire sati w;:; with what I seen. the head of the firm sald: ‘We Want to Impress upon you the fact that many wholesalo clothiers cater to the demand of some unprincipled retailers for cheap showy siuff. They don't use the maker's name, and he consequently cures nothine for his repatation, =7 \ ST (L i TAILOR SHOP. NEW YORK HOUSE, 058 BROADWAY. Now, onthe other hand, our label appears on every garment we manufacture, and we make our goods so well that tue man or boy who wears one suit with our label always gots an. other it he can. HOW HE CAN. “The way to get Stein, Bloch & Co.'s gare ments {8 to ask for them. If the retail clothier has not them on hand he can get them very roudily. He can got ons suit just as cheaply though he were buying forty or one hundred. If he refuses, ull the customer Las to dois to wrlteto 8tein, Bloch & Co.. Rochester, and they will tell him where ho can get them in his town, Wo will not sell to the consumer, but wiilto the rotailer, and will take just as much pains to filt an order for one suit asked for in this way ag though it were a heavy sale, We want to build up just that class of t:ade in every town be tween the two oceans.” EXAMINING AND MEASURING ROOM, “Bnt. gotting down to the dollars as well ng the sense of it, 15 th ere any morey in it for m and for Tnomas, and Richard, and Henry buy- ng your suits in preference to sny. others?* ! “¥s. every tune. Second-rate goods are dear at any price. The Steln, Block & Co, garments are clieap at the price ut which they ure rotatled, Our suits and overcoats that retall at from 00 compare favorably with the finest merchant taflors’ work costing from #40.00 to BAA0, the fabrics being identically the same. We ma ke noue but the best, and put on every garment tais label, which is an absolite Assure arice of the very best quality, workmanship and style," Din per-time having arvived, | accepted the fn. vitation of the mewbers of the firm to dime ad their ciub, where I met and formed, the aos qualntance of many of Hochester's best known and most solld citizens, Train time shortemed my visit, the pleasant and protiube mowory of whic will ever'se Piald rean Tockystors el Fork Worla, Jume 26, i