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4 4 A MUGH-TROUBLED LAND. Light and Shadows of Southern Life---A Journey Full of Food for Thought, Testimony of Various Classes of Southern People. How the Negroes are Regarded by Settlers From the North Chain-Gangs and Bloodhounds Spocial Cacresponden; Tribune. Wasnixaroy, July 20, — My journey through the Southern states has been full of interest, to myself, at least. 1 have scen some things that were sad- dening, some that were amusing, and other things that excited my i tion, with much that is gratify encouraging. But I must close this series of letters, referring only to a few things for which T have not found space hitherto. I have been in the eountry dis- tance from the railroads, and have seen a great deal of the life of the people, especially of the middle and poorer classes, and have lived among them in ways that usually appeared to prevent or overcome any teeling of re- straint or distrust on their part. 1 have also been in many families of the “‘best people” of both political parties, in the various states, and have every where received letters of introduction to leading citizens. These were freely proffered by men to whom I expressed the wish ‘‘to see the south as it is,” and they were often of much service, but some of them I did not use, be- ~cause I found that I could obtain all needed information by other means at less cost of time. Very few per- sons in the south learned that T was a a newspaper correspondent. I had plenty of other ways of accounting for my jourrey, but it was not often nec- essary to account for it at all. It may be that some persons would have been less frank if they had known what use would be made of the infor- mation they so freely and courteously aided me to obtain, though many prominent southern men expressed the wish that I would tell the people of the north exactly how I found things everywhere. I have incurred no obligation of secrecy, except that, of course, I do not use names, or in any way designate individuals. The southern people, of all classes, are generally 8o social, so fond of talking, that I had rarely any need of special effort, or means of introduction, to enable me to obtain access to any one whom I wished to see. T had been in the south during the war as a union soldier, that at that time I was an enthusiastic yeung abolitiomsts, etc. I did this in order to learn whether such an announce- ment would produce any change of feeling or utterance, but was never able to observe any diminution of in- terest of franknest on the part of my southern acquaintances. At other times, when entering the circle around the stove in a hotel, I began by say- ing that T had explored portions of the south with the soldiers of such or such a union general, out this only led to much telling of war stories by all of us. I conclude that if a norther man, in v ng a southern town, should go first to see the negro local politicians, many of whom are disreptutable fellows, and should spend a day or two in leading a com- pany of them from one jsaloon to another, would not afterward be re- ceived very dordially by the respec white people of the place. I have usually called on decent people first, prominent white citizens, or the edu- cated colored clergymen or teachers, and e then found no obstacles in the of observations of even the lower strata of the life of the town and the region about it I have conversed with the governors of five of the southern states, with most of the state superintendents of public imstruction, and many other state ofticers. I have visited four state prisons, and have inspected sev- eral gangs of convicts working in the country on railroads, ete. I have visited several county jails and alms- houses, three asylums for the insane, and many colleges and schools of all grades, My plan has been to take no- body's word for anything that I could see for myself, and to report imparti- ally and accurately what I saw and heard, with the impressions made up- on my own mind by everything, sof the New Yew York THEIR OWN TESTIMONY, Whatever has been said in these letters of an unfavorable or severe na- ture concerning any class of persons is drawn from what such persons have themselves said to me, I have often reported what people say to me of each other, but it will not do to accept what is said by any class in the south as an adequate account of *“The South- ern Situation,” Some allowance for natural misunderstandings or for par- tial views is often, perhaps always, necessary. What I have related of democratic interference with negro voting was derived wholly from demo- crats themselves, who in some dis- tances avowed that they were active in such interference, and in others told me that the local leaders of their own party managed matters as I have aescribed. Such unfavorable account a8 is given in these letters regarding many republican office-holders and politicians is derived from what thesc men have themselves said to me, in friendly, careless conversation. They usually appeared to be glad “to see somebody (lmm the north,” as they said, and they often unbosomed them- selves in a manner and degree that at first soraewhat astonished me. For some reason which T cannot always determine, democrats in the south usually appear extremely re- served when I ask them about the character and methods of action of southern republican officials and poli- ticians of the Yrmnt time. They freely express their horror and dis- gust regarding the state of things which prevailed, as they say, some years ago, during ‘“‘the carpet-bag period,” but in regard to existing con- ditious, even in cases of most obvious unfitness and impropriety of official character and conduct, they assure me, with much emphasis, that ‘‘these matters have greatly improved within a fow few years.” None of thesouth ern men with whom 1 have talked ap pear to feel that there is anything in tolerable in the state of things which 1 have criticised pertaining to the character and methods of republican politicians. They express much sat isfaction on account of the improve ment that has already taken place, and are in the habitt of saying that oy hing will come right with time;” but I have eeen things that no northern community would long endure, Asto the negroos, it has v been necessary to take anybodys ac count or opinion of them. 1 have seen a great dealof life, and have studied their thought and character with deep and friendless interest, PARTIAL AND IMPARTIAL VIEWS, A most sad and discouraging feat ure of the relation bLetween the two races in the south is the character and morals of the young women of the colored race. Almost everybody speaks hopelessly of this subject, and it is tragical to see the feeling of the best lored men in regard toit. T cannot that it would be better for the south ern white people if there were no negroes in the country. But the roes are hore, and are as truly a part of the people and of the country as the whites themselves: and they have, of course, the same rights as citizens, But it was both a erime and a blunder to bring them here at first, and the evil consequences of that wrong will long follow the south and the whole country. I can now fully understand how almost any imagina- ble account may honestly be given of “‘the state of things in the south.” Most travelers here meet only one or two classes of persons, and are apt to regar . one or two classes of facts as correctly representing the state of the country. But no one brief statement, or picture can adequately describe the south. Many different and often con- tradictory facts must be noted, and the cniet or final impression is often a matter of relative emphasis, and of the competence of the observer to judge of the comparative significance of many seperate and conflicting ten- dencies. One is in danger everywhere in the south of receivinu entirely too much information from ‘‘the most intelligent citizens.” If a traveler puts himself into their hands he will receive pro- fuse hospitality, but he will have little opportunity for independent observa- tion, Only a man who will wear ‘rough clothes, a part of the time at east, and who can set the common people to talking can see the south as 1t is. At the same time it is,of course. necessary to see the best people, too, at their houses and *‘in society;” and any well-behaved man can do _this in the regions which 1 have visited, no matter what his political opinions may be. I can express any political senti- ment or opinion freely at the tables of leading men in all southern states,pro- vided only that I recognize the re- quirements which are uniyersal in po- lite society and that T converse with the women. The men will listen and participate, but in their homes and in society the women ‘‘queen it” more p.ml[)nbly than is usual in the north; and the homage or deference constant- ly rendered to them is more pronounc- ed than in New England. They are never ‘‘left out of the talk” when they are present. THE NEGRO FROM TWO STANDPOINTS. I have been strongly impressed by the general hardness and unsymp: thetic feeling of northern men living in the south in regard to the negroes. Native southerners of character and position do not often appear to me to feel unkindly toward the negrocs, though, of course, they often regard them contemptuously and fail to t them as they ought. But northern men who have gone south since the ar almost un ally (those whom 1 have seen) speak of the negro with great harshness - a kind of cold ha- tred, and what T shall call cruelty. I have seen and heard so much of this that would have appeared incredible before, that i 28 me sometimes a kind of nightmare fear that residence in the south might transform the most philanthropic abolitionist into a tyrant of merciless severity., Interesting questions arise here, but 1 have not time to discuss them. Near Vicksburg I found a young planter from Minnesota, who works many negroes, I asked him about their quality as laborers, and he re- plied that they are almost worthless, “‘unless you whip themZwell.” “ How do you mean that you whip them?” 1 asked: “‘Do you fight with them and whip them because you are the best man, as white men fight in Minne- sota?” ““Oh, no,” said he, contemptu- ously, ‘‘goat them witha club, ora heavy whip-stock; knock them down and beat them as you would a mule.” “But 1 thought the day for that was over in this country. T should think they would leave you, Why do they not go away, go to some other man, or out of this region?” “Oh, well, they do go away to the woods for a duy or two; but what can they do? Their familics are here, and they don’t know where to go. Besides, I shouldn’t let 'em go, if I didn't want to, The dogs would soon find ‘em.” “Then,” Isaid, ‘T would kill you.” At this he laughed sneeringly, and re- plied: “Mebbe you would, but you ain't a nigger. A nigger's just in his place when he has a whiteman to drive him, au’ they always need knockin’ down occasionally.” ~ He went on to say that he had found that only the harsh slaveholders made money in the old times. ““An’ that's the right way now; work 'em to death an’ git more. There's plenty of 'em.” On my ex- pressing wy abhorrence he said: **You wouldn't bo here a year till you would say the same things. All northern men talk just as you do when they first come down here. 1 did myself. My father was a red hot abgplitionist; but I tell you a nigger has no affection no itude, no hear Every one of ‘em will steal They understand noth ing but a club.” HU TING NEGROES WITH DOGS, In Mississippi I found a republican ofticial who hires prisouners from the authorities and employs them in vari- ous kinds of labor. The convicts work under guard, and occasionally some of them try to escape. Most of them are negroes. away the employer and his guards chase them with dogs. He uses a pack of hounds to follow the man by the scent. These would not attack the fugitive, but they are accompanied doubt. after the widest observation, | When they run | THIS OMATIA DAILY BEE: FRIDAY, JULY 29, 1881. by a powerful “cateh-dog,” that will tear a man in pieces in a few minute if tho flying, hunted wretch is una to ascend a tree before the terrible brute is upon him. Just before 1 was in that neighborhood a runaway negro convict had played a shrowd trick which enabled him to ma! good his escape, for that time at least Hearing the hounds on his trail, he struck across the country for the railroad. When he reached the railroad the dogs were in plain sight across the fields, and were rapid ly gaining on him. Half a mile away he saw an_express train approaching He knew the dogs would follow his scent closely, so he ran to meet the train, which, but a moment after he had steppod_from the track, ran over the dogs, killing them all. T must do the people of that region the justice to say that, although many of them saw nothing shocking in the practi of hunting runaway negroes with| dogs, their sympathies were all with the fugitive on this occasion, They were glad that he had outwitted his pursuers, and talked yuck it “the nigger that was too many for Captain So-and-So,” This “Captain” s a northern man, and I thought he felt 8 of shame when 1 ex- | yressed my disgust at what T had heard, but he insisted that my senti montal view of the matter was absurd “How else am I to ecatch the nigges, then?”’ e said And some time afterward in talkine with a_ prominent democrat of Cuero, Texas, of this occurrence m Mississippi, when T remarked that 1 folt the more indignant because the man was a northern man and a repub- lican, my Texas acquaintance politely remonstrated, saying that my feeling seemed to him mere sentiment, ‘‘sur- prising from a gentleman so sensible as yourself;” and he added, ‘‘How else was e to catel the nigger?’ Sev- eral northern ladies in the Mississippi region where the incident occurred told me of the inexpressible horror the first timo they saw this man with his dogs pursuing a negro. It was just at dawn on a beautiful Sabbath morning. They could not at first be- lieve what they were told about the huat, never having heard anything of the kind. POLITICAL FABLES, In Mississippi, also, T was told by a number of northern people of an ac- count sent to the northern press dur- ing *‘the Hayes campaign,” which io- cated an atrocious political outrage at the place which T was then visiting. These persons seemed reputable, and they all affirmed that nothing of the kind had ever occurred there. T in- quired regarding the author of the dispatch, and learning that he was still hiving a few miles away, I went tosee him. He laughed when I told him my errand, took a t esh chew of tobacco, and, crossing his_ feet on the top of the table beforo him, began talking of the affair in an easy, fluent, indifferent style, which seemed to in- dicate that he was glad to have some body to talk with, and would as lief talk of that subject asany other. “Phen the dispatch was not really true?’ Isaid. “Well,” he replied, “it was true as to the spirit of the South generally at that time.” **But why did you say that such and such things happened at a particular place, if they did not.” Well, now, you kuow it would mot be of any account to say, at such ~a time, that there was lots o' devilish feeling in the south. Buti. rather wakes people up to tell them that something's been done at a place that they've heard of.” “But it was not true.” But he thought the use of a fable o parable was jus- titiable under the circumstances, be- cause it was the only way togive point or effectiveness to any account of the condition of the south at that time. “All writers does pretty much the same thing,” e urged; “‘they have to.” “Oh, I hope not,” Tsaid. ““Well, now, if you lived down here awhile you'd find out we have to fight the devil with fire.” The northern peo- ple who told me of this occurrence were good republicans, and they wei specially indignant about the fabric tion, becanse it alarmed some of their northern friends who had been pre- paring to remove to that region, but were now frightened trom their pur- pose. EXPERIENCE OF IM GRA T have not been able to find any “feeling against the north,” or against northern people in the regions that I bave visited, and so far as that is con- cerned, I should have no fear or re- luctance in going to any part of the south which I have seen, if for any reason 1 wished to emigrate to that portion of our country. But many people are going south with no ade- quate forethought, or knowledge of the country. There is a side of southern character and life withwhich such persons are very likely to become acquamnted, There are inany men “in business” nearly everywhere in the south who are of the same type as the author of the following fraternal utterance, 1 heard of him as one of the cest fighters against us through the whole war, and went to seo him, When I anuounced myselfas a *Yan- kee invader” hie shook hands heartily and replied; “I'm a reconstructed rebel, We fought till the fight was all whipped out of us. I rather like the men that whipped us. Tell all your people to come down here. They're just as welcome as our best friends, an’ we'll cheat the eye teeth out of ‘em ” In one of the principal cotton states I saw a young man from the north, well educated and energetic, who had this ecperience: A planter who ownzd a large tract of unimproved land decided to “‘go into sheep.” He said to this young man, “‘T will fur- nish money; you furnish labor; we will go into " partnership and raise sheep and share the profits,” The young man agreed to do this, worked hard for a year and a half clearing and fenging land and putting the new plantatfon in order. Then the pro- prietor said there had been a consid- erable loss on the sheep, but as he felt a special interest in the young man, he would not come upon him for any of the money loss, and he would allow the young man to work for him to pay for the supplies which he had received from the plantation store dur- ing the partnership. When I saw the young fellow he had been at work nearly a year, paying for these sup- plies. Of course he should have had wages from the first, but he did not | and northern immigrants who by share the profits.” The planter sold the sheep and had a fino new planta tion tor cotton and more than two years labor which had cost hin only this young man's board and « Many southern men hs desire to make money. are welcome. INDUCEMENTS AND DRAWBACKS, There is, indeed, the strongest de. | sire for immigration everywhero in the south, and there are real induce- ments for young [mn\.l.v with invul- | nerable digestion, and who are willing to work hard and live roughly, and | who can resist the unfavorable in. | fluences arising from thechanged con. | ditions of life. But Thave scen many young men from the north who are hot strong enough in_moral cquip. | ment for life in “‘a region where the | poorest man ean have a _harem of his own of any extent almost without cost.” The frequent “lynchings” and | executions by mob process in wmany | parts of the south furnish strong rea- | t ol mi sons for reluctance on the northern people and capitalis grato to those regions, T have in two places m the south recently where : rangements were in progio’s for hanging negroes who hadnot tried. In one of these places the ne groes was hanged soon after| 1 was there, 8o the nows.| papers s IZ lave ot heard from the other, In first | town the hanging was delayedbecanse two of the leading busin men were absent. “They will never forgive \N‘“i their friends said, “if weo allow this | thing to go off while they're away.” As it is nearly always the case, ihe nowspapers said the hanging wis done by “‘unknown persons.” Now, I aflirm that nearly overybody 1 that town knew who composed the mob, or lynching party, for nearly everybody was concerned in the preparations, which were openly made; and 1 am convineed that the perpetrators of these mob-murders are usually well known citizens. I advise northern veople to mark the regions where these things aro done, and avoid them. And as there are lynchings and mob- outrages in various parts of the north sometimes, I advise southern people to mark the regions disgraced by these lawless proceeding, and avoid them. Evyils to be Avoided. 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