Norwich Bulletin Newspaper, October 5, 1912, Page 11

o PLEATS, THE FASHION, SAYS PARIS Now. She Dresaes Like a Directoire Dandy—The High Waist- line Past and Gone—Watteau Pleats and Paniers Give Coquetry to New Fashions—Long Sleeves on'All Formal _ Frocks for Day Wear—The Return of Smooth Finished . Fabrics. 4he new fashions are . Directolre, ways Paris; but Directoire with a dif- ference. The Directoire styles we have all been used to.during the past few geasons were feminine Directoire fgsh- jons--now the masculiné Directoire ‘modes are to haVe their turn. And if ever modishness 'was the mode for mesculinity it was in the elegant Di- rectoire days, when every chap under his dotage was a dandy—and some old fellows in the dotage age, too. These gay logs, if you plemse, affected silk stockings and starched sleeve and neck frills, and perfumed coiffures. They ‘were fastidious about their cosmet- ics as any belle of today, and at the gams time they could handle a sword end swallow a round of toasts in a way that proved them anything but effeminate. The Directoire dandy wore an oddly cut coat which was somewhat like the Toiland County GILEAD Auto Trucks to Carry Lumber—Miss Joyner Returns From Europe. Miss Hattle, Ellis has returned to Belknap. 2 Two auto trucks are coming from Plainfleld to be used in moving the lumber from the lumber lot to Bolton depot. Mrs. J. Banks Jones is visiting her ‘brother and family in Princeton, Mass, Miss Helen 8. Foote of West Hart- ford and Miss Helen E. Foote of Cromwell were at . E. Foote's Sunday Home From Europe. Miss Marie Joyner who has been traveling in Europe the past eighteen months is visiting her sister, Mrs. E. ‘W. Buell, Miss Edna Post returned to Wash- ington, D. C. to resume her pedagogi- cal dutie: w . Hills has sold his timber to F. N. Tyler. Mr. mlill on the lot and will saw the timber Tyler has put a! for Mr. Hill's barn. modern coat extremely exaggerated. This coat had a sharply cutaway ef- fect in front and fremendous'y long tails at the back, a high, turned-down collar, huge revers, and long, snugly | fitling sleeves. TFilmy frills escaped | from the sleeveg and foamed down the froht of a lively waistcoat, -between the biz coat revers. It is these dandi- fied coats of the late seventeen hun- dreds that have formed the inspiration | for wumen's tallored wear this season. The coat-tails, the cutawav fronts, the gay vest. the frilis, the fanciful revers are all here, and coats are built in contrasting color and material to sug- gest the Directoire dandy’s cloth coat and satin breeches. Half of the new tallored wear for fall—hailing from Paris—shows the <coat and skirt of contrasting fabric, and the broadcloth coat with a velvet or satin skirt is seen as frequently as the velvet coat with a skirt of cloth or silk. Smooth finished materials are in high faver, and though rough cheviots, wide welt- ed serges and homespuns will un- doubtedly be used, trotabout suits anc coats, the silky broadcloths, very soft, chiffony velvets, fallle silks and poplin weaves will be favored for dressy cos- tumes. A mixed weave of worsted with mohair threads, called in Paris permo weave, particularly well liked because of its lustrous, silky tex- ‘ture, and this permo fadric comes in all the subdued, hard-to-describe col- orings in which the French couturiers delight. A taupe shade and & deep milberry shade are perhaps the most distinctive. Grays continue in the promounced favor accorded thern this summer, and many of the women who wore mnoth- ing but black and white combinations last season are noy taking up th: grays. it is a wife woman who— electing to dress in gray for a season —selects one particular shade of gray and keeps to it. Two striking features of Paris fash- jons for fall ar: the prevalence of pleats and the full-length sleeve. The elbow sleeve has passed with the high walstline—which is now relegated to the limbo of passe fashions. All belts are at the waistline normal: and some of the coa: effects even drop below this point; and to make sure that no- body shall mistake -the fact that a normal waistline s now the mode, fashion has decreed that all waists shall re emphasized by a girdle, belt or sash of one sort or another. This ig agaln & memory of the Directolre dandy, whose sash, if his costume was military, was a very ornamental part thereof. Sleeves are not only lomg, but they. are snug. They cover the forearm and even the wrist in all coats, frocks and wlouses intended for day wear. Elbow sieeves in the form of loose lace draperies are noted on some of the new evening frocks, but the bare fore- arm is not now considered de rigeur during the morning or afternoon— unless with an informal at-home cos- tume. tracked the Scribe from the subject of Dleats—a most vitally significent ssue just now; for it is the pleat that s going to work a transformation in the sl te, though the change will probably he so” gradual that nobody will realize that skirt lines have com- the metamor- Bverything | | pletely changed until | phosis has been wrought. | is ploated—in one, way or another— and we are seeing again the old, old- fashioned knife pleats, tacked togeth- er on the under fide with leng tape so that they may not sp | There are, among the new Paris mod- els for autumn, skirts pleated all around at the top, in narrow kmife- pleating, yet so trimly held in place by not exceed the prescribed two yards so 80, and the silbhouette is as slim and narrow as fashion still demands. Ma- chine pleated skirts are at the pinna- cle of the mode. This machine pleat- ing—or accordion pleating, as it i sometimes called—is put into even vel- vet and broadcloth fabrics, though, of course, the best effects are produced Buttons and sleves have rather side- | Tows of these confining tapes that the | measurement at knee and foot does with satin, heavy silk or the soft, lus- trous permo fabrics above referred to. When the whole skirt, or part of it in panels or drapery, is not pleated, there is apt to be some trimming in the form of pleated quillings—or narrow bands of kmife-pleating stitched about half an inch inside either edge. ‘Watteau pleats and paniers are be- ing used with discretion by many of the courtiers, to give a touch of grace and picturesqueness to fall models. The Watteau pleat is noted even on tailored coats, and it appears con- stantly on handsome wraps for even- ing wear. The panler i8 a much chastened and subdued modification of affalr the impertient puffed-out which heralded the arrival of this fashion last spring, and many of the looped and draped paniers on fall frocks are exquistiely graceful Skirts remain narrow at the foot, all width being and long, clinging draperies which do not interfere with the slim silhouette. L | Bernard Coat and Skirt of Contrasting Fabric. Expressive of the latest Paris ideas for nard, all is this stunning suit by Ber which combines a black broadeloth. panel at one side. The smart velvet coat is piped with white cloth and embroidered with arrowheads in white and black. The most striking feature is the double Robespierre collar, the tall Incroyable coat collar rising over a turnover Robespierre collar and vest of white broadcloth. Cuffs of the | introduced in pleatines ani | white velvet coat with a skirt of black The skirt has a pleated the Aoor Newspaper Assw NY white broadcloth finish the long, tight sleeves, 2 A Paquin Wrap, showing the Favored Quilled Trimming. This graceful wrap was designed by Madame Paquin for her own use, and has all the dignity and elegance that this eouturier expresses in her own tollettes. The wrap is built of navy blue fallle silk with a deep border of black satin. The bands of pleated quilling used down the front and around the skirt of the coat separate the blue and black materials, An ef- fective trimming touch is the use of tiny pleated pipings of black satin in all the seams of the garment. Only a slender figure could stand the up- standing pleated pipings, but they add immense chic to the coat. | 3 | The Watteau Pleat a Fall Feature. This costume by Martial et Armand is a model designed for afternoon vis- iting wear, and combines & brown velvet skirt with a coat of tan broad- cloth jn the new fashlon of contrast- |ing coat and skirt. The skirt has a graceful pannier drapery at one side and a very sharply pointed train. The coat is an imitation of the coat worn by dandies during the Directoire peri- od, and at the back a Watteau pleat has been added just by way of eccen- tricity. The Directoire collar and cuffs and the cutaway fronts give the coat its character. 4. Paquin Adores a Fanciful Cut. Always In the van of the mode, Washington County, R. 1.1 USQUEPAUGH i Charles Bagley to Superintend Mill in Bay State—Guests at Miscellaneous Shower. | Charles Bagley has gone to Jeffe son, Mass, to superintend a mill. F wife and son Joseph are to go Mon- day. Isaac Prosser's family have return- | ed to New York after spending the| summer here. > Mrs. Hattie Potter and M Kelly this week with t Franklin. They s in_the | case of Perkins vs. Gi at West | Kingston. { Mrs, Benj. Smith of Pawtucket spent Saturday and Sunday at Dr. Kenyon's. Mr. and Mrs. Randall Hoxie of! Chatham, N. Y, have returned home, | after a visit of several weeks in the | village Mrs. Esther Kenyon is visiting her | daughter, Mrs, Ford Clarke of Arctic. There is to be a soclal at Allen Avoid Impure Milk for Infants ana Invalids HORLICK’ It means'the Original and Genuine MALTED Olfoid are: For infants, ihvalids and growing children. “Pure nutrition, upbuilding the whole body. {Iovigorates nursingimothers and the aged. % A quick lunch prepared in a minute. 865" Talke no substitute.’; Ask for HORLICK'S. \HORLICK’S Contains kfi"fgn all Ages. The Food-Drin Rich milk, malted grain, in powder form: More" healthful ‘than tea or coffee. | & - MILK 3 » Agrees with the weakest digestion. Keep it on your sideboard at home. | Pure Milk | mental Stevens’ at Glennoch this evening. J. C. Cahoone of Wakefield visited his sister, Mrs. E. E. Kenyon Sun- day. Amos H. Kenyon visited his sister and family, Mr. and Mrs. F. K. Cran- dall at Arcadia, Sunday. Mis: 2l from here attended the mis- wer given Miss Mayme Saturday slianeous Shower. es’ corner. Miss Smith is soon to wed Charles Donnelly. The presents were many and useful. The Buests W ntertained at M A Woods wher s Smith has made her home for several years, VWEEKAPAUG Addition to Stevens Cottage—Meeting of W.C. T. U. E. Stevens, who 1is still here, is hav- ing a large addition built to his cot- tage. He will soon return to his home in Quinebaug. Leon W, Bliven and Cleveland Car r are spending a few days In pe Bost Mrs. Ernest Champlin has returned from two weeks' visit with friends in Providence. Mrs, Tyler Collins of Ashaway is the guest of her sister. Mrs. Georze Green. Heard Convention Reports. Ocean View W. C. T. U. held fts mecting Wednesday afternoon at the home of Mrs, Henry chell, with: a g00d attendance. Reports from dele- tes who attended the annual conven- in Providence were given. Three visitors were present, one from Piits- field and two from Worcester. After the business meeting vocal and instru- lc was enjoyved, anmd re- freshments of salad, s and melons were se Mitchell. s+ HOPKINTON George H. Sprague was in the au- to with Mail Driver Eugene D. Wheel- er when the latter's machine was damaged in the collision at the white schoolhouse on the Westerly road Sun- day. The rain prevented services in the First Day Baptist church Sunday. The republican caucus was held Friday afternoon at 2 o'c Mr. and Mrs. George B. Carpenter of High street, Ashaway, are spend- ing a few days in their cottage at Quonocontaug beach. Charles Blake who has been cooking at the Quonocontaug Life g s*ation, returned home Mon- . day and has gome to Brockton fair. ROCKVILLE Mrs. Addie Brigham of Prowidence, is the guest of her sister, Mrs. W. H. Church. Mrs. Addison McLearn of Pittsburgh, Pa.. has been the guest of relatives here this week. Mr. and Mrs Erlo G, Barber were visitors at Tomaquag Saturday. Charles A. Stone of Tomaquag was the guest Saturday of h® cousins at ‘Woodcrest. P —————— A !Recovery of Willie| | Willile was the neighborhood pest. If | his fond parents had had any doubt of |1t they had only to bend their reluct- Ject. Besides being omnipresent, Willle Wwas supernatural in the variety of his activities. He was just as good at breaking cellar windows as he was at trampling flower beds, scaring cana- ries and driving cats to drink. He was uncanny. Just as certainly as any tir- ed woman in the two square blocks ad- i | went so far as to include breathing in | | the things they demanded that he stop. | ant ears to the breeze and listen to|something whait the neighbors said on the sub- | It applied, for example, to the time he | Willie" wouid be under her window in- side of five minutes practicing a new ‘war whoop. Then after the would-be slumberer ‘had_conquered her hysteri- ics her voice could be heard ringing out the clarion: cry “Willie Snears! ‘Will-i-e-e You go home now and stop that noise!™ o Willie was always being requested to stop something. Nobody ever beg- ged him to continue. Some people even However, that demand was made only when his genius had led him to do extraordinarily atrocious tied a rope simultaneously to the Perkins front doorknob and to the new and expensive young tree thet had just been set out in front of the Perkins house. When Perkins, after many maledictions and herculean wrenches, at last yanked open his front door he also yanked up by the roots his tree and snapped off its top. Then there joining Willie'’s home lay down In the | was the time he poured glue all over daytime to take a much needed nap | Jimmy Hinks' rabbits, and the rabbits ed of themselves that they deliberately contracted pneumonia and died. | T Willie' was just as bad at home as he was anywhere else, so his family rather sympathized with the neighbors. Willfe's mother was continually apolo- | gizing for her son. She had been call- ed upon so many times to weep over her neighbors’ blasted flower beds and strangled birds and flooded cellars that she was growing a trifie callous to their sufferings. She had listened so many times to speeches which began, “Of course, he’s your son and I sup- { pose he has his good points, but—" ‘that she could recite so much of the speeches by heart. Everything had been tried on Willle from corporal punishment to moral suasion, but it seemed impossible to hit the correct combination. . Still, his parents labored on. They sald it was more exciting than figuring out the mathematical possibilities in a game of solitaire and quite as fascinating, though sometimes they shuddered to think how barren of object life would had to be shaved and were so asham- |be if Willle were sorts of § s i | § - EiESQr £ il Machine-Pleated Skirts a Fall Mode. Once more the accordion-pleated skirt appears at the van of the mode; but now it calls itselfl “machine pleat ed” and ls very olrci width, the pleats belng kept strict contrel by tapes tacked under- in ts H coat is very jaunty lar, double revers, ‘brald and the youthful ‘back, The g . E ? -4 ;EQ%E; ih 1 i f ! | T ; EE i i {:l (M i | i BE¥EeR ¥ ! | | | | | .. The Range that Makes Cooking Easy " e A Glenwood Coal or Gas Range for cooking, and a Glenwood Parlor Stove, Furnace or Boiler for heating means solid comfort and less fuel, C. 0. Murphy, Norwich