Norwich Bulletin Newspaper, March 18, 1910, Page 7

ME LA MODI is no respector ©of history, chronology, nor sea- In less than a twelVe- month she has stepped alrily out of King Dagobert's tog- gery Into the culrass of the Aiddic Ages and thence Into the courtly costumes of Louls the Fifteenth's time. |ow her capricious head has been turned {by milltary regalia and though the sum- rer months are approaching she is don- ning the modified uniform of the Russlan Cossack, with complete indifference to the “act that it iz obviously a winter effect. S5 the puzzied purveyors to her lady- ship’s whims have had to skirmish ex- ceelingly to edapt the style to spring j2n3 summer usage. The result is an in- {finite varlety of bloused and belted gar- jrents, bui all showing the unmistakable j/Russian influence, even to the trimmings Jf broderfo russe and the buckles and |[-1asps bearing the Russian eagle's head. : Comservative buyers in this country, imowever, sound a warning note in the |{@sclaration that the Russian models will ndoubtedly be favored in the dresster {suits and thres-piece costumes, but that seven—eighths fitting tailored suits, itwenty-six to thirty-two inches in length, easily bold thelr own. These will be ade with long woll and notched collars jand the left side lap, approaching almost flo 2 biazer style when the roll collar is A noveity in these tailored m the introduction of lingerie §fects. Pleated Germsn valenclennes dging the collar and cuffs adds that ouch of lacy daintiness that feminizes lx» mast strictly taflored suit. The developments of the Russian blouse ffect range from the simplicity of the lowss coat brought fnto the waist line = patent leather belt, to the satin thxt are shirred or pieated into ot goid braid or =ilk embroldery. It s whispered In the Mnner circies of the |a sort of low, broad belt. Perisian modistes that befors the end of the regretfully-relinquished Eton nd belero will come into distinct favor We had had the long coats for saccessive - seasons now and the may naturally enough swing rom thelr length to the abbreviation of ho Tion and bolero. The home dress- will rejoice at this change, for '‘he simple style of the short coats does ‘ot present the difficulties in making— or the expendifure—that the longer gar- -{aents de But thers seems to be a law of com- ensation in fashion as in other things. "“When two yards is subtracted from the post four yards is added to the skirt. A bas the skimpy, clingy skirt of yester- §ay. Pleats are back again In every de- fghtful style of frou-frou. The novelty 21 the season’'s skirts Is, of course, the tanic or half-draped effect over a pleated + ounce. The apron tunic is shown In riany of tho ready-made models, but since } iere arc no hip seams whatever to allow \iterations, it is necessary to obtain a jerfect fit in the beginning. which fs not )iways an easy matter. The side pleated sxirt, which proved so becoming to most t gures, has returned to favor as has also s7ery variation therSof—the plain panel ) ternating with 2 pleated one, side { =ats alternating with - ox pleats, shaped {ores confining pleats below the hip line. Serge is undoubtedly the most popular gubric for the street sulws, the marine blue f.at was so much worn during the win- #or continuing In faver. So it be serge, #3e can make no mistake in the selection ¥ material for the spring siuce every Seave from the fine twill serge to the jiney and rough weaves will be used. ‘d\’QIVT cheviots, particularly in the black #ad white, oF pepper-agd-sait effects, two- [rovesal jtoned diagonal, basket cloths and mat {weaves will be used in the more expensive jsuits. The tendency is toward the soft rough cloths, including homespuns and (worsteds. The pin-stripe serges it is ex- ipected will be much worn, especially those with the hair-line stripe of black, from one-half to three-quarters of an inch apart, on a white ground, or the white line on a navy blue ground. Although the three-piece suit in the ore elaborate styles will persist, the silk g, suit, consisting only of skirt and coat, [bids fair to push to the front again as the mart apparel for semi-dressy occasions.| exclusively in these suits, though ribbed land corded effects are also good. Foulards, vhich grew and grew to such extrava- [gance in sprawl and color that tr lost, favor with the discriminating woman, are, Insinuating - themselves into her good! races again by their oft colorings and (modest designs. The smaller the pattern the smarter the foulard s considered to/ be. Another revival of a once popular, sillc is that of the changeable or chame- leon silk, which is to be found In the| taffetas and satins. Many of the new| suits and coats are lined with this change- able silk, in a contrasting shade. Though the suit coats have all been shortened up into Russian blouse and even| ton lengths the separate coat for spring ‘continues to be full length, though often developed in the Russian effects. The straight cut garments on closely ftting ines are eastly in the lead. 1k coats,' jof black taffeta, or the natural shades of' [pongee and tussah, will be much worn.| One model In tussah illustrates a new feature in the combination of a blouse front with a belted effect, without a belt, {however. The fullness of the blouse front| {i8 confined in three narrow tucks to which |, is extended the skirt panel, thus forming The very long: Toll collar is the distinguishing feature of the new coats, together with the left side lapping. Sometimes a single button more than three are never used. i one. Soft. silvery greys, yellow glints greens with in them, natural pongee dominate. Tn the changeable foulards the tans, grays, rose, green are preferred. The neutral of the street costumes are often relieved, however, by a touch of brilliant color at the neck, and the use of contrasting color in some of the mew linings makes subtle color harmony possible. A striking pongee coat, orange taffeta, embroidered in the same| color, had a lining of coin spotted foulard—having black dots on a bur orange ground. Belted Effects Prevail In House And Evening Gowns. The popularity of the ready-made gown for every day or dress occasions has re- sulted in a wide selection of these to be found in the shops. and elaboration from the simple tailored effects in silks or light weight wool ma- terials to the dinner gowns and evening costumes, swathed in chiffons and a-glint with tinsel. " The modes seem to have et and ‘makes things over.” Overskirts, draperd| ics, sashes, the use of several diferent jroaterials on the same gown, sleeves made! from net or chiffon or gold cloth—what sibilities for the refurbishing et tud old directoire gown or rufed evening ress, or worn jumper suit these fashilons progent ! The materials favored for the simp'e fastens the coat at the waist line, and |f The color note for spring is a subdued [ shades, and all the pastel colorings pre- |, flks and [, tones | having a shawl shape, collar of |s They range in price |, conspired to atd the woman who thriftityi| By Rene Mans es are tussah and foulard stiks, volles and cachemire. influence is strongly b stan belt, of leather, or folds of materi: in a contrasting color. predicted that the vogue of the tanic would be fleeting many varlations cf itc simple outlines are being shown. Th most approved style is cut off at the knees and is either of even, round lengti or falls in points below the hips. With a short skirt the effect is not alwaye graceful, so that tunic modes are bert | employed in the more elaborate costumes. The trimmings of the plainer dreaser consist generally of self-covered cording, or bralds in the cord or tubular effects. The preference for the military styles, with the side lapping of coats and cos- tumes has brought out many new ideas In ornaments and loops. Embroidery In coarse silks and yarns, and cross stitch- ing Is much used on dresses, and coa:s also. It is predicted that laces will be used to a greater extent {han ihey have been vears. Irish laces will e popu but the lighter e Orientals, Chantilly slenciennes will be espe- nand because of _their > draped effects. on-veiled effects which so well liked in evening t season are now being tion gowns and dinner Black chiffon tunics over, blue en or orange satin foundations 1wng the more favored les. g gowns for early pring are spangled 3 beaded tering than they were during winter season, if 4hat is—consid- ed po: A man remarked ¥ that a woman in-fash- evening dress looked' like- a ghtning and "was as audi- factory in an earth- ut that doesn’t matter at all. exhausted the supply of tin- now two-toned metal ef- s are being shown in laces and mmings. Beads and bugles and cloth of zold and of silver are found on all the more elaborate gowns. Sleeves need no longer be of the same material as the gown. Indeed v may be different for each arm if es to adopt one of the latest of fashion. Lace, net, gold silver tissue and chiffon are large- Iy used. Linen and lingerie -gowns- already sive promise of unusual popularity.] Pastel sha in linen, hand embroid- ered, shown in.many tailored ef— 1 lines of the srie gown which were any but practical, have given nticely to the fuil skirts and belted Madeira and Lorraine are much used- on em- these 1d flouncings to @ width of One en inches are seen. model has the body of the dress made of nurrow strips of all-over connected with fnsertion with narrow gallons above the flounce. shown in thay insistence upon a normal walst line, either Tussah and pongee silic are used almost| suggested or encircled with a girdle, m' Though it wes! o Y x Spring Opening Days Women’s Tailored Suits, Dresses, Capes, Coats, Waists and Skirts We extend a general invitation to visit our Second Floor during Opening Days and view Fashion’s newest ideas as embodied in our assemblage of Women’s Spring Outerwear. o other show- ing in Eastern Connecticut can compare with it. NEW Models in Taflored Suits for Women and Misses, a great diverslly of styles- $12.50 to $37.50. NEW Models in Women’s Long Capes, in all the fash. fonable colorings — $5.00 to $12.50. NEW Models in Women’s Spring Coats, in all the fash- ionable materials, some with the “Presto” collar--$6.50 to $17.50. NEW Models in Women’s White Liagerie and Lawn Dresses, newest designs—- $10.00 to $22.50. NEW Models in Women’s Dress Skirts, of silk, voile, melrose, serge and mannish mixtures---$5.00 to $22.50. NEW Models in Women's Waists, in lawn, {faffeta, messaline and China silk-- $1.00 to $6.50. We respectfully invite your attendance and inspection. The Porteous & Mitchell Co. XXX