The New York Herald Newspaper, January 19, 1879, Page 5

AROUND THE WORLD. General ‘Grant's Visit to Portugal. LISBON--GAY AND GRAVE. Interview Between General Grant and the King of Portugal. A ROYAL SHAK PEAREAN SCHOLAR, Visiting Cintra---A Dream of Paradise. ' Lispos, Nov, 17, 1878. Lisbon is a city built as it were on billows. The view from the river is very beautiful, recalling in tome degree the view of Constantinople from the Bosphorus. ‘Lhe skies were gracious to our coming and the air was as warm as a Virginia spring. There are so many stories about the foundation of Lisbon that the reader may take his choice. to have made this one of his wanderin, have, in the words of Camoens, bidden “the eternal walls of Lisbon rise.’ There is a legend to the effect that Lisus, friend of Bacchus, was the founder, while other authorities say that it was the great grandson of Noah, a person named Elisa, and the date they fix at 2,150 years before Christ, or 278 years after the Deluge. The value of these legends is that there is no way of contradicting them, and one is utas good as another, I find it easier to believe the narratives I hear, and to fancy,.as I walk up and down the steep, descending streets, that I am really in classical society. It is due to Elisa’s claim to say that tne time is fixed, and that it was only four thousand and twenty-eight years ago. As we come into more at, tainable chronolgy we find that Lisbon was once a part of the Carthagenian dominions, and supported Hannibal. That astute commander had such hard luck in the-world that I have always been disposed to take his part, and Lisbon has a friendlier look now that Iknow she stood by the Carthagenian captain against the power of Rome. It shows a tack of en” terprise in‘the Lisbon people that they have not found out the house in which Hannibal lived or the trees under which he prayed, as all well regulated towns in the United States do concerning Washing- ton. There was no trace of Hannibal in Lisbon. The people seemed to be under the impression that the only great commanders who had ever been in Lisbon were Don Sebastian and the Duke of Welling- ton. They show the very quay from which Don Sebastian embarked on the journey from which he has not returned, and the lines of Torres Vedras are in the suburbs, where the Duke began his senti- mental errand of delivering Europe. ; LISEON’S SPLENDOR, Julius Cesar was kind to Lisbon, although the peo- ple—such is the ingratitude of modern times—seem to have forgotten it. Then came the Goths, who took it from the Romans and plundered it. The Goths, who seem to have been an uninteresting people, well de- serving their fate, were driven out by the Moors more than eleven centuries ago. The Moors never had much peace in @isbon, and the chronicles of their reign are chronicles of assaults and counter assaults—, wow Christian ahead and now the infidel—for centur- les, so that real estate must have been as bad an in- vestinent during their day as in New York since the panic. But there came a prince of the House of Burgundy, about seven centuries ago, tnd be whipped the Moors in a pitched hattle. The chief incident in this transac- tion was the appearance of our Saviour to the kitig on the morning of the battle, with a bright halo around his head, who assured the prince of victory. This sovereign is called the founder of the present kingdom of Portugal. He was known as Affonso the Conqueror, and his remains are in a magnificent sepulchre at Coimbra. He flourished about the time of Henry I., who had-the fata! quarrel with Beckct. For two centuries Lisbon remained under her kings, until a king of Castile came over and burned a greater part of the town. It seems that ‘there was a woman in the case, for Camoens tells of the beauteous Leonore, who was torn from her husband’s widowed arms against the law and commandments. In 1497 Vasco de Gama sailed from Lisbon on the expedi- tion which was to result in the discovery of the pas- sage around the Cape of Good Hope to the Indies. This was the beginning of a career of com- mercial splendor. For two centuries the wealth of the Indies was poured into her coffers. In 1580 Philip U. of Spain took the town and annexed Portu- gal. During his reign the Spanish Armada was fitted out at Lisbon and sailed from here to conquer Eng- land. If Philip had made Lisbon his capital and traysferred the government of the whole peninsula hither there is little doubt that Spain and Portugal would be one country still, with advantage to the two nations and the world. Lisbon is the natural site for such a capital. But Philip was infatuated with his monkish carcer at the Escurial, and his suc- cessors did not think much of Portugal except as a good province to tax, and so in 1640 the people arose one December night and drove the Spaniards out, and from that tice it hax been in the hands of its own people, THE MEMORADLE EARTHQUAKE, The most memorable event in Lisbon history was the earthquake of 1755, traces of which you can see to-day, and about which people converse—as the people of Chicago do about their fire—as though it hap- pened the other day, It was on the toast of All Saints, in the early mdfuing, when Christians were at inass praying for the of the souls of the dear ones gone. A noise way heard as of thunder, the buildings tossed like a ship on. the billows, darkness fell upon the carth, and, as all the churches were crowded, hundreds were crushed to death at the altar's foot by the falling timbers. Nearly every church in the town was destroyed. ‘Then the people rushed to the water side and to the higher places of the town, mainly to a church called St. Catherine's, Surely there was safety on the high places and on the banks of the river. But a second shock came, St. Catherine's Church fell with a crash. ‘The river became a sea, and there rolled over the banks a wountainons wave, sweeping the lower streets and all that lived on them, and tho earth opened and the ships went down, likewise a magnifi- ceut marble quay, on which people had assembled— all went down, down into the depths, and when the | waye receded it was found that all had been swal- lowed up. ‘The river rose and fell three fathoms in ao instant. The ships’ lors were thrown up to the surface. A third shock came, and vessels that had Leen riding in seven fathoms of water were stranded. Then a fire broke out and raged for six days. Nover since cities were founded was any one by sorely smitten as beautiful Lisbon. REBUILDED LISBON. The best authorities say that the loss to Libon was $300,000,000 in money. Of 20,000 houses only 5,000 remained. Thirty thousand lives were lost. Then the robbers came and plundered the ruined town, and it was given over to plunder until the resolute Maur. quis Pombal, ancestor of the recontly deceased Sol- danba, came and, building gallowses in various parte of Lisbon, hanged every one who could not give a clear cxplanation of how he came by his property. In all 350 were hanged. It seems that the earthquake which dostroyed Lisbon was felt all over the world— | as tar north asthe Orkney Islands and in Jamatea, Tho culmination was in Lisbon, But the people, under the lead of the brave Pombal and the King Joseph I.—who is called “The Most Faithful’ —rebuilt the town, and you see how well that work was done, You see rows of honees that remind you of Paris, fine squares And newness in cortain quarters, as though it was the rebuilt section of Boston. One Lundred and twenty-three years have passed since the earthquake, but no event is ao well known, Peo- ple show you where the quay stood which sank into the depths. I strolied over it thy morning with NEW YORK HERALD, SUNDAY, JANUARY 19, 1879.—QUADK UPTE SHEET.. General Grant and saw the barefooted fishwomen hawking fish. provements carried out by Pombal. They show you with pride the equestrian statue of Don Jose, erected by a grateful people in commemoration of his services in that awful time, And if you climb up to the fort for a view of the lovely scenery which encloses Lis- bon the first object pointed ont is the ruin of the Carmelite Church destroyed in the earthquake, BOYALTY IN LISBON, ‘The King of Portugal, Don Luis J., is a young man in the fortieth year of his age, second cousin to the Prince of Wules, who is three years bis junior, and between whom there is a marked resemblance. The Queen is the youngest sister of the present King of The King’s father is Prince Ferdinand of wburg, cousin of the late Prince Consort of England. His first wife, the mother of the King, died many years since, His second wite, now living, is an American ludy from Dostov, named Henzler, and is called the Countess d'Edia, One of the King’s sisters is wife to the second son of the King of Sax- | ony, the other wife té Prince Leopold of Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen, whose clection to the throne of Spain by Prim. was oue of the causes ot the war between Germany and France. In, the way of revenue the King is paid $405,000 a year and the Queen $66,000, The eldest son, heir ap- parent, is now fifteen years old, and $22,200 is his salary, The se-ond son is only thirteen years old, and receives $11,100. The King’s father is paid $111,000 annually, and his brother, a young man of thirty-one, is general in the army and has a salary ot $17,750 per aunum. When you add the King’s great aunt, an old lady of seventy-soven, who is paid 200, you have the whole royal family, with their incomes, amounting in the aggregate to something over $650,000 a year. INTERVIEW BETWEEN THE KING AND GENERAL GRAN1 ‘The King, on learning that General Grant had ar- rived in Lisbou, came to the city to meet him, There was an audience at the palace, the General and his wife meeting the King and Queen. - The King, after greeting the General in the splendid audience cham- ber, led him into an inner apartment, away from the Ministers and courtiers who were in attendance on the ceremony. They had a long conversation rela- tive to Portugal and the United States, the resources of the two countries and the means, if means were possible, to promote the commercial relations be- tween Portugal and America. Portugal was, above all things, a commercial nation, and her history was a history of discovery and extending civilization. Lisbon, in a direct line, was the nearest port for ships leaving New York. It was ou the lines of latitude south of the icebergs and a pleasanter part of the ocean than the routes to Liverpool, There was a harbor large enough to hold any fleet, and the King believed that when the new lines of railway through Portugal and Spain were built the route would be seventeen miles shorter than over the pres- ent many-winding way of the Salamanca road. The advantages of such a port as Lisbon would be many for travellers, and the King had no doubt ‘that mar- keta for American produce and manufactures would be found in the countries aronnd Lisbon. The King had been a naval officer, and the conversation ran into ships of war and naval warfare, There were other meetings between the King and the General. ‘The day after the palace reception was the King’s birthday, and there was a gala night at the opera, ‘The King and royal family came in state, and during the interludes the General had a long conversation with His Majesty. The next evening there was a dinner at the palace in honor of the General, the Ministry and the leading men of the court in attend- ance. The King conversed with the General about other themes—wanted him to go with him and shoot. It seems the King is a famous shot. But the Gener- al’s arrangements left him no time to accept this courtesy. THE KING AS AN AUTHOR. It seems the King is a literary man,and having translated “Hamlet” into Portuguese the conversa tion ran into literary themes. The King said he hoped to finish Shakespeare and make a complete translation into Portuguese. He had finished four of the plays—‘Hamlet, “Merchant of Venice,"’ “Macbeth” and “Richard II.” “Othello’’ was under way, and already he had finished the first act. The question was asked as to whether His Majesty did not find it difficult to translate such scenes'as that be- tween Hamlet and the gravediggers—almost dialect conyersations—into Portuguese. The King said he thought this was, verhaps, the easiest part. It was more difficult to render into Portuguese the grander portions, where the poetry attained its highest flight. ‘The Merchant ‘of Venice” he liked and “Richard HII.”. was, in some respects as fine as any. of Shakespeare's plays. “What political insight,” said: the King; “what in- sight into motives and character this play contains!" ‘The King asked the General to accept a copy of “Hamlet,” which His Majesty presented with an an- tograph inscription. As the time came,to leaye the King asked the General to allow lim to’ mark his appreciation of the honor the General had done Portu- gal by visiting it by giving him the grand cross of the Tower and Sword, The General said he was very much obliged, but that, having been President of the United States, and there being a law against officials accepting decorations, he would rather, although no longer in office, respect a law which it had been his duty to administer. At the same time he appreciated the compliment implied in the King’s offer and would always remember it with gratitude, INTERVIEW WITH THE KING'S FATHER, Don Fernando, the King consort and father to the King, was also exceedingly courteous to the General. His Majesty is sixty years of age, and is a tall, stately gentleman, resembling somewhat his relative, Leo- pold I. of Belgium. Don Fernando is one of the Coburg house of princes, who are spreading over Europe. He belongs to the Catholic wing of tho family—these great houses having Catholic and Prot- estant wings, to suit the exigencies of royal alliances. He came to Portugal forty-two years ago as the husband of Dofia Maria IL., Queen of Portugal and sister to Dom Pedro of Brazil. Dota Maria died in 1853, and Don Fernando became regent until his first son, Dom Pedro ¥., was of age. Dom Pedro reigned six years, and was succeeded by his brother, the present sov- reign. Americans will be pleased to know that His Majesty, on his, second marriage, selected a Boston lady, The marriage is morganatic—that in to say, the Church blesses it, but the lady not being royal, the law will not) recognize her as Queen, Countess «Edla, as she is called, is much’ respected in Lisbon. When the General called she escorted him through the various treasure rooms of the palace and seemed delighted to meet one of her countrymen, and especially one who had ruled her country. Countess d’Fdla seems to have had a romantic career, She studied music, and came to sing in Lis- bon. Here Don Fernando made an acquaintance which ripened into love, and. in 1969 she became his wife. Don Fernando, like his son, the King, is an accomplished man, skilled in languages and litora- ture, with an especial interest in America, He talked to General Grant about California and the Pacific coast, and expressed a desire to visit it. His Majesty has acurious and wonderful collection of pictures, bric-i-brac, old ariner and old furniture—one of the moet curions and interesting houses in Europe. Hoe is fond of painting, and showed us with pride some of his painting on porcelain, DRAUTIFUL CINTRA, Finally Don Fernando gave us a pressing invitation to visit his palace at Cintra, A visit to Cintra was down in our programme, but the King’s invitation put the palace at our disposal, a privilege rarcly given. Cintra is about fifteen miles from Lisbon, and we were compelled to go early in the morning Onr party included the General and Iie wifo, Mr, Dimon, our Consul; Viscount Pernes and Mr. Cunha de Mater, formerly Portugnese Consul General in the United States, and author of a history of the United States in Portngnese, Mr. Moran, onr Minister, was unable to join Hs on account of indisposition, ‘The drive was attractive, through a rofling, picturesque country, with cool breezes coming in from the «a that made overcoats pleasant. Cintra ts one of the famous spore in Europe, but when one speaks of it he turns almost by instinct to “Childe Harold.” You will Gnd Byron's majestic stanzas describing Cintra in the first canto :— rrid crags, by toppling convent crowned, rk trees hoar that clothe the shaggy steep, mountain moss by scorching skies imbrowned, The sunken glen, Whose sunless shenbs must creep, ‘The tender azure of the nnruffled deep, ‘Tho orange tints that gild the greenest bough, ‘The torrents that from cliff to valley leap, ‘The yine on high, the willow branch below, Mixed in ye uixuly svene, with yaried beauty glow. ‘The bh ‘Th rh They point out the magnificent im- 14 be convened again at the wall Of the Chairs ‘Then slowly climb the many-winding way, And frequent turn to linger as you ue ¥rom lot rocks new loveliness survey, And rest ye at “Our Lady's House of Wor Where frugal monks their little relies show, And sundry legends to the strauger tell; Here ianpious men bave punished been, and lo! Deep in yon cave Honorias long did «well, 3 In hope to therit heaven by making earth « he!l. CHANGES SINCE BYRON’S TIE, Nearly seventy years have passed since Byron vis- ited Cintra, and the picture is as perfect now as when drawn. There was some difiiculty in finding thecork trees, and General Grant began to be sceptical as to their existence and was thinking of offering a reward to Mr. Dimon to find one. But the Consul redeemed Byron's veracity as a painter of scenery by bringing Us to a small cork grove on the side of the mountain. Many changes have taken place since Byron was here, ‘The “toppling convent” was seized by the government, and in time became the prop- erty of Don Fernando, and at @ vast ex- pense he has rebuilt it into @ chiteau ‘or palace, one of the The ‘horrid exags’ are traversed by good roads, and we ride upon our donkeys as easily as we coutd ride up Fifth avenne. The mountain moss and the sunken glens have all been covered with a rich vegetation, notably of the oamelia, which is rarely seen in this lati- tude, but which His Majesty has made to grow in pro- fusion, Our Laily’s House of Woe is the palace of a prince, and as we ride under the overarching door- way attendants in royal livery are waiting. ‘The house is in Norman-Gothic style, and the rooms are what you might see in other palaces, ‘There is a small chapel of rare beauty, with exquisite carvings in marble and jasper illustrating the passion of our Lord, The beauty of Cintra is seen in its fulness a8 you stand on the lofty turrets. It is built on the summit of a rocky hill 3,000 feet high, The descent on one side to the village is a triumph of ex- quisite gardening. On the other side the descent is almost precipitous, You look from the giddy height atthe trees and the tumbled masses of rock, tossed and heaped in some volcanic age, You see the land- scape rise and swell in undulating beauty, and the lengthening shadows rippling over it. Far off arc the lines of Torres Vedras, built by Wellington's armies to defend Lisbon from the French, Beyond is the sea, gleaming like amber and pearl, It was over that sea that Vasco de Gama sailed, and from this lofty summit King Manuel watched his coming and in time saw him come, bringing tribute and em- pire from the Indies. You can see if you look carefully the outlines of Mafra palace, built to rival the Escuriil. You see the Tagus spreading out to the sea, foreing its way through forests and hills and valleys until it falls into the ocean’s arms. Lisbon lies under the Monsanto hills, but the view sweeps far beyond Lisbon until it is lost in the ocean, There was a fascination in this view that made us loth to leave it, and for a long time we lingered, watching every tint and shadow of the picture under the changing sunlight. It is indeed “the glorious Eden” of Byron's verse. MONTSERRAT. ‘There was a long ride through the gardens and the woods on our donkeys until we came to Montserrat. It was here that Beckford, author of “Vathek,” whom Byron calls “England's wealthiest son,” built a chateau.” ‘The view is almost as beautiful as that from the towers of Don Fernando's palace. Beck- ford’s house came into the possession of a wealthy Buglish merchant named Cook, but npon whom the King has lately conferred the title of Viscount of Montserrat. Mr, Cook has spenta vast sum of money upon the house and grounds. The house is in the Oriental style—a long parallelogram in the centre, with two oval wings, and all surrounded with columns and balconies, from which you can look out upon the valley, the plains that sweep toward the sea, the sea alone breaking the horizon. ‘The grounds, however, are among the finest in Europe for the value and rarity of the plants and the care with ‘Which all is preserved. Notwithstanding its beauty Mr. Cook only spends two months of the year at Montserrat. His other months are spent in Eng- land managing his affairs, ‘There is an old royal palace to be seen, which was the Alhambra of the Moors in their day of triumph. The kings of Portu- gal lived here before the discovery of America, and one of the legends goes back to a century before that time. The palace is a large, straggling building, with many chambers, and 2s it is uo longer teed an a royal residence the General was curious to know why it conld not be rented as a summer boarding house and made to contribute to the revenues of the King. In its day it was, no doubt, a pleasant home; but with the three or four vast palaces in Lisbon and its suburbs, palaces with modern comforts, the old Moorish castle can well be kept as one of the ; monuments of the nation, toy A ong BACK ‘TO LISBON. Wes! watked and drove around Cintra village. Geneval Grant was so charmed with the. place that “hq regretted he could not remain longer. ‘There was a royal engagement bidding him to Lisbon, So we “dined at Victor’s Hotel, and as the night shadows came down bundled into our carriages for the long drive home. The air was clear, the skies were bright, and it was pleasant to bound over the stony roads and watch the brown fields; to pass the taverns, where peasants were langhing and chatting over their wine; to roll into the city and feel the breezes from the river as we came to our hotel. We had made a Jong journey, and the hills we climbed made it fatiguing. But no one spoke of tatigue, only of the rapturous beauty which we had seen, Cintra | itself is worth along journey to see, and to be re- membered when seen as a dream of Paradise. ANTI-TAMMANY DEMOCRATS. A UNION OF THE PIFFERENT ORGANIZATIONS AGREED UPON--THE TAMMANY SOCLETY AND COMPTROLLER KELLY OVERHAULED, A meeting of the General Committee of the Irving Hall Democracy was held last evening at Irving Hall, Mr. James E. Morrison in the cbair, Mr. Nelson J. Waterbury on behalf of the Executive Committee stated that a sub-committee had been appointed to confer with the organizations known as the city democracy and the county democracy, and aftér several conferences they had agreed upon a plan of union, and that when the plan is adopted by the different organizations antagonistic to Tammany Hall it will be adopted as already published, with a fow slight variations. Mr. Robert B. Rooseveit then offered the following resolation :— Resolved, That this organization will accept no uni with Tammany except on condition that the Tamu Society surrender its assumed control of polities, and that ammany Hull he opened to the use of all, and that no one ian founding his power on patronage or’ otherwise. shall 0 party in this city, and that Stato that tinued re tue only regular democracy najority in this city, THAT DINNER AT THY LOTOS CLUB, velt spoke for’ some time on this resoln- tion, He alluded to the late dinner at the Lotos Club and said that he never saw such an ex- hibition in his life. The financial officer of the vity aetually patronized the Mayor, its chief exeeuti officer. Tt was @ magnanimous offer Mr. Kelly to make tiwt he would reduc with the help of the Mayor, the debt of the city $8,000,000, Mr, Roosevelt then followed up the onslaught on Mr. Kelly by saying that the name of Tammany Hall and its corrnptions stinks in the nostrils of the nation; that-New York city has atways been the sport of legislative bodies at Albany and in the Congresses of the nation at Wash- ington, and that the bad repute of Tammany Hall aud its secret organization has been the cause of all the trouble, After Mr. Roosevelt left the platform Mr. Nelkon J. Waterbury offered the following resolutions, to which he spoke at length, as did also Colonel Joho 1s committee welcome with heartfelt Je and comprehensive mossage of our i 1 Fr, Lucius Robinwun, whe hie apheld with earnest dotermination th and ret chment which has been the Ke to the Common C were not mistaken in their chaiee of a stle for relief from the burden of debt and taxations # evils of waste, folly and neglect nuder whieh th and it is one of the most «ignit! ewnt re of the people and the wisdom of their ¢ cr pwer whieh has hereto. fo ith sustain the Y wnd practice , ni ved, That this committee reiterates the expression of its determined hostility not only to the destructive Polley of the officeholders, who have heretofore woverne the ‘city, but lw to the iniquitous system by which the democratic party has been ruled by t dangerous power uf an onth b 1. Fellows’ speech was a fierce tiradé against John Kelly and the present Father of the Council of Tam- many Hail, Henry L. Clinton, The meeting adjourned most beautiful in the world, | RUSSIA. IN: THE BAST Traversing the Ru Empire. ON ROUTE TO CABUL. A Scene of Woe on a Volga Steamer. — OneNpure, Dee. 10, 1878. ‘The New Yorker desirous of going to Cabul must | first of all cross the Atlantic and then traverse Enrope in its greatest length by railway, Getting into car at Havre it will take him tour full days to reach St. Petersburg, passing thronzh Paris, Cologne, Berlin and Warsaw, He will then require sixteen hours to get to Moscow and’ sixty hours more to reach Orenburg, leaving behind Riazan, Morchauski, Penza, Syzran, where the Volga is crossed, and Samara, From Hayre to Orenburg the traveller coversa little more than three thousand miles and passes seven days on the railway—rather more time than is required in makiug the journey from San Fran- cisco to New York, In crossing North America it is only necessary to take a ticket and get aboard the train, while in Russia things are very diferent, for it is the only country where the formality of the passport still exists to the full, To this must be added the fact that no foreigner can venture beyond Orenburg with- outa governmental authorization, which the inevitaple formalities compel him to wait far longer, since the Emperor is away from the capital, In this country when the head of the State goes anywhere all the ad- ministrative machinery follows him. From this cause it happens that instead of seven or eight days it has taken me a month to cross Europe and make ready to enter the Asiatic possessions of His Imperial Majesty the Emperor Alexander. ‘These possessions begin at Warsaw, a city of 400,000 inhabitants, re- markable above all things else for not possessing a single French barber. It is the only great city of the world which is in this strait, if I ¢an believe the man who ucted as my cicerone, and who, like the President of the French Republic, answers to the name of Mahon. This latter fact caused the late ‘M. Thiers a hearty laugh when he visited Warsaw in 1870 and the Polish MacMahon offered his services, This guide has seen other celebrities pass through the city. Among those who employed him he proudly counts ex-President Grant and General Sherman, THE STATIONS AND THEM ATTENDANTS. From Warsaw to Orenburg the traveller, shut up in his railroad car, has nothing vartieular to note. First of all, he passes through forests of fir trees and then through the steppes—those widespread plains where not a single tree rises to break the melancholy expanse. This for the distant view. Closer at hand he sees only the same station, of which the dimen- sions alone ‘vary, with the same cook bebind the same cutlets, which, after the train has gone on, he will replace in the pot to take them out when the next passengers arrive. It must certainly happen that the cook, from sheer force of seeing those cut- lets day after day, must end by knowing them one from another, and becoming attached to them. Then if a traveller should ever possess himself of one of these the cook must naturally experience the painful feelings of the man who sees a friend fall into the hands of cannibals, Everybody drinks tea out of glasses and the women smoke cigarettes. Every soul you meet complains of the weather, whose clemency is, it appears, most distressing. The snow refuses to come; the — sledges are going to the dogs; never in the memory of man bas such a state of things been seen in the middle of December. However, we meet plenty of ice in crossing the Volga—a feat which is performed painfully enough. ‘The river cuts across the line of the railroad fifteen or sixteen versts (ten miles) from Syzran. A large bridge has been begun at this point, which is called Batraki, Already the abutments are emerging from the stream; but it wilh take two years yet before the important link in the chain of commn- nication is completed. Meantime, a little steamboat twenty feet long is made to suffice for the serv Tho travellers of all kinds are huddled on board, There are merchants and officers, moujiks and mountebanks, and a party of velocipedists, who are going to take a turn in Siberia. WORSE THAN DEATH. Six soldiers conduct a score of convicts, of whom some are heavily chain ‘These latter, it appears, are assassins condemned to the mines, because in Russia the death penalty does not in point of fact exist. The condemned are sent down into the mines, where the robust do not hold out for more than two years; it is a death penalty after all, but by a long term, All the convicts wear gray overcoats something like those of the soldie In the centre of the back these coats are dotted with yellow marks, of which the form, square or triangular, indicates the penalty of the condemned, Above the marks are Ictters tell- ing the government from which he comes, Thus the prisoner carries a registration of his civil condition on his back, One of these convicts still wears his civilian attire. His wife has obtained leave to accom- pany him, along with their children, four or five years old, He will pass months in the midst of these strange surroundings, for several months are neces- sary to reach Siberia, the journey made almost entirely on foot, What a singular beginning of an education! STUCK IN THE Ick. Meanwhile the little steamer, after great efforts, succeeds in getting away from the landing place and encounters the ice blocks from the uorth which choke up the stream, After a bundred laborions revolutions of the paddle wheel the engine stops. It is impossible to move either forward or backward. ‘The Captain shouts to the machinist, who answers only with a volley of oaths. All this is in Germa but it does not help ws forward. “Put on all steam shouts the Captain, “Do you want to blow up the boat?” replies the machinist, However, we cannot stay whore we are, and the ice blocks are rapidly piling up around us, “All right," shouts the machinist at longth, putting on all steam. The little. vesyel seems to try to Jump out of the water. Something is going to break, either the boat or the ice, which will it be? ‘Thero is a moment of anxiety, then a large gap is opened before us, the way is open and we arrive without much further trouble at the opposite bank. Here we have to wade through the sand up to the little station and there await our baggage, which the steamer has gone back to bring. Five hours are lost in waiting. At last the train starts, and on the mor- row we arrive at Orenburg. ON TO TASHKEND, This is the end of railways for us, We shall not find them again until we reach India, probably at Muitin, AIL the intervening space must be trav. ersed by the means of locomotion handed down from former centuries. From Orenburg to Tashkend the jouruey 1 still made on wheels. Our vehicle is callet a tarantass, It consists of a canvas-covered | bos in which we stretch @ mattrass and piace a layer of straw, reach Tashkend, age is piled on in front and behind, and alse the vietwals, for we shall find 1K Lust be provided et starting. The horses are furnished by the post, of which the relays are distributed along the route, and favoritism becomes a matter of great con- sequence, The Governor, to whom I had sent my permit, furnished me with what Iwill call a post- letter, a sort of passport stating that in the name of His Majesty Tam to be provided with as many horses as Lwant, upto six, Ishall thus beable to start on my journey. ‘Tt has not been without dificulty, for in order to obtain all that was necessary for the trip in this city, where Tartar cupidity is happily wedded to Muscovite carelessness, I found it necessary to summon all the proverbial persistence of a reporter, ‘They tell me the weather fs bad; nevertheless, I hope to reach Tashkend by New Year's, From that city I shall relate my travelling experiences and shall also give my observations on the situation from the point of view of the Anglo-Afghan conflict. I suppose that there, at least, Eshall percetve the existence of that conflict, fur here in Orenburg, very little—almost nothing at allie said about it, And yet this is the only route from Russia to Afghanistan, When, on my journey I have answered ingtirtes by stating that none ¢ siupefaction of my questioners. that I was uttering a manitest absurdity, Neverthe- less, one high personage bus given me a message for the Amwer Shere Ali. It was the Grand Due Viadi- mur, whom 1 casually met at St. Petersburg. I had not seen hin: since the war of 1577, “So yon are going to Cabul,” he said, “Well, don’t fail to say many pretty things to the Ameer for me! The attitude of politicians in Russia is that of men who have no concern with the fate of the Ameer, who, nevertheless, gave an exclusive reception to the Russian mission. “Poor fellow,” they say, “he is bound to be beaten.” SILENCE ABOUT POLITICS. Those who know Russia as well as I think F do know that there is no country in the world where politics of every kind, internel or external, are so utterly unknown, or where the peeple who are con- | cerned speak. and those personages, like Gortschakoff and Iynatief, who venture to talk with journalists are considered as prodigies of rash yalor, We must not then attach too much consequence to lamentations over the tate of the Ameer, who, in any case, is condemued in ad- vance, ‘THE PRICE OF TURKEY. One high personage, who seemed to have less re- Tuctance to speak than most others, told me that Af- ghanistan will be the price of Turkey, whieh country the Russians are every day more and more anxious to retain in their hands, TL iM be, he said, an Anglo-Russian agreement which, for the present, will Le silent about Constantinople, so as not to arouse the Mussulmans of India against the English; but that capital will eveutually be conceded to the Rus- sians, Another personage told me that 1 could not go from Tashkend to Cabul except by making a de- tour through Herat, which city will shortly become the key of the Afghan question. I have every reason to suppose that Herat is the objective point of Russia, which will thus hold Persia, as in a vice, between Tiflis and the Afghan citadel, I give these iteins of information for what they are worth—the impressions of a traveller who has not seen a newspaper for a fortnight, and who is further away from the world than an explorer would be at the North Pole. One thing I know—that the railway managers have received orders to provide cars for a speedy transmission of troops. THE RIVER Ox [Moscow correspondence of the Cologne Gazette. ] Coucerning the irruption of the Amou Darya into its old river bed—the Usboga—we learn, as the re- sult of the inquiries begun by order of General Lo- mukine, tne following particulars:—Three prin- cipal irruptions have taken place—one near the town of Kiptshak, directly into the Usboga, where the water has flown into the Sara-Kamish lakes and filled the salt lakes of Koch-Pulgar; a considerable mags of water has flown through the Darjulil into the Usboga, and athird irruption has occurred near the town of Chod-cheili, from wheuce the water has flowed into the | Aral-Dengis basin. The communication by land through the Usboga river bed is interrupted and the land steppe is under water. How far the water height in the Usboga may diminish it the government of Khiva continues to dam up the irruptions cannot be determined now. It is not without importance that the Usboga can be put under water without difficulty for 200 versts as far as Koch-Pulgar. If the bay of Karabugask, which penetrates for 150 versts to the east into the con- tinent, shows itself navigable tor steamers, the trad- ing road trom Krasnogarsk, on the Caspian Sea, to Khiva, which is 600 versts in length and leads through a waterless sandy desert, will be shortened by 400 versts. This circumstauce alone is for the Russian connections with Central Asia important enough to yn the interest of all those concerned in the question, AMUSEMENTS. MRS. VANDENHOFF'S READINGS. ‘The assembly room of the Twenty-second regiment Armory was comfortably filled last night by the an- nouncement that Mrs. George Vandenhoff would give au cutertainment for the benest of the homeopathic charities. Readings and recitations were the basis of the entertainment, though some vocal and piano mu- sic added varicty to the programme, Mrs. Vanden- hoff’s own readings were characterized by force and emotion; those of the young ladies who assisted her were of varying merit, but alt ssemed satisfactory to an audien¢e compostd, apparently, of personal friends of the fair clocutionists. MUSICAL AND DRAMATIC NOTES. Miss Genevieve Ward is playing in Montreal. The attractions at Thomas’ Opera House have been changed for the coming week. Miss Ada Cavendish will probably make a reap- pearance iu New York during the coming season. ‘The San Francisco Minstre!s are drawing crowded houses. They make good music and lively fun for the multitude, Mr. Oliver Doud Byron commences an engagement at Niblo’s to-morrow night in “Ben McCullough; or, The Wanderer’s Divorce.” The exploits of Captain Boyton have led to the dedication to him of two or three musical composi- tions by resident composers. “Les Fourchambault,” at the Broadway Theatre, will be continued for another week. The hit of the play is the part taken by Mr. Joseph Wheelock. The next appearance of Mr. Hermann Linde, who recently read Shakespeare at Steinway Hall, will probably be upon the theatric stage in tragedy. ver Too Late to Mend,” a dramatization of Charles Reade’s novel, is underscored at the Olympic ‘Theatre for to-morrow evening and the remainder of the week. . The Mulligan Guard Ball,” at the Theatre Comique, is one of the pleasaut burlesques that keeps an audience in good humor, It bas drawn large audienc: ‘The attractions at Tony Pastor's Theatre change so often that it is impossible to keep trace of them. He succeeds in his aim to make a first class variety tertainment. “Ours,” at Wallack's, bids fair to retain its place on the stage for several weeks. It is a favorite play, the cast is well chosen, and the interest of the per- formance never flags for an instant, Mr. Dan Harkins announces the reopening of the Fifth Avenue Theatre on Saturday evening, January 2, with the already successful comedy “Dr. Clyde.”’ It is said that he is selecting a strong cast. “The Pinafor is still drawing overflowing houses at the Broad Street Theatre, Philadelphia, and is en- tering on its third week, It is immensely popular and is one of the great successes of the season, O, B. Boise is to give a novel series of symphony concerts at Chickering Hall, opening on the 30th inst. with one composed entirely of original pieces, nding a symphony entitled “In Memoriam.” The Evangeline company, now pertorming at the eum Theatre, announce as the next attraction “H. M. 8. Pinafore.” It has been in rehearsal for some time, and the management count upon a stc- cess. ‘The Chestnut Street Theatre, Philadelphia, is also to revive Robertson's “Ours,” with a good cast, a military band and other attractive and valuable ac- cossories, Tho initial performance takes place 3 day evening. At the Union Square Thoatre “The Banker's Daughter” is enjoying a run that rivals the best pro: ductions at this popular place of amusement. The house is always full, and the public curiosity is by bo means exhausted, “Haverley's World-famons United Mastodon Min- strels," as the advertisements profusely and brill- jantly announce, are to be at the Arch Street Theatr, | Amoug the attractions are, Philadelphia, this week eight “eminent” ond men. “The Cataract of the Ganges,” the old spectacntar favorite, is once more to be placed upon the boards at the Walnut Street, Philadelphia, this week, Very Horate effects are promised, including a real cata. ract the full height of the stage. Mr. Carl Langer will giva the last of his series of four instrumental concerts at Chickering Hall on Tuesday evening, January 21, In addition to him- self the soloist will be Miss Fannie Goodwin, soprano, and Mr, KR, Arbuckle, the well known cor netist. A dramatization of “Dot; or, The Cricket on the Hearth,” one of Dickens’ favorite stories, will be brought out at the Park Theatre to-morrow ovening, with Mr. John Owens in his well known character of Caleb Plummer, The cast embraces many strong names, “The Huguonots” was reproduced at’ Rooth's ‘Theatre yesterday at the matinée, This opera is not in governmental aflairs so rarely dare to | ‘They have a real terror of correspondents, ut 1wason my way te. Cabul nothivg could exceed the |.sudicientiy popular to. draw larg qudiquces, and dis Lace gnome Wap It would seem | performance was not of acharacter to clicit other coniment in these columns. Messrs. Ferlinand and Hermann Carri give the second in their series of musical entertainments at Steinway Hall on Monday evening. They will be assisted by Miss Gertrude Franklin, soprano; Mr. Martinus Van Gelder, viola, aud Mr, | Heinrich Schroeder, violoncello. “The Colleen Bawn"’ is to be the feature of the coming week at the Grand Opera House. Iminense audiences witnessed the end of the “Shaughraun’’ yesterday, It is intimated that Mr. Boucicault will make a professional tour at the end of his engage- ment with Messrs. Poole € Donnelly. Miss Von Stamwitz will make ber first appearance © at the Grand Opera House in Joaquin Miller's pew play of “Mexico” on the 10th of February. ‘The play is said to be full of picturesque situations and spark- ling dialogue, New scenery is being prepared that than has been already made may add to the effuctiveness of the presentation. At Booth’s Theatre this evening a coucert will be in given under the auspices of Mr. Max Strako: which will appear Mile. Giulia Mario, the new ve ist; Seflorita Galimberti, Mr. Edouard Kemer Teresa Careno, Signor Lazarini and Mr, Cautfman, ‘The programme is an attractive one to all lovers of mus Mr, Rud, Arorson is contemplating the construc- tion of a monster music hall in a central portion of the city, and has already nearly perfected his ar- rangements. The property has been sectrred, the necessary capital promised, and, if his plans turn out well, New Yorkers will soon enjoy the privileges of a delightful place of amusement, similar to those that are found in Paris, Vienna and Berlin. Appreciative audiences have greeted the efforts of Manager Neuendorf, of the Germania Theatre, during the past w Two excellent pieces, “Der Stoevenfried” and “Hotel Klingenbusch,” were pro- duced with marked success. The latter play will be repeated to-morrow and ‘Tuesday evenings. On Wednesday: night Miss Ella Groeger will take her first benefit. For this occasion and each sueceeding evening during the week “Die Fremde” (tho Stranger) will be performed. Mr. P. S. Gilmore's igternational concert is to bo given at the Grand Opera House this evening. It will be the first performance of a “Descriptive Sympho- nic Poem” of the tour of the band in Europe, and is said to be a very interesting work. Miss Juliet Fenderson, soprano; Mrs. Helen Norman, contralto; Mr. Bernhard Mollenhauer, violinist; Mr. Pedro Baccelli, baritone; Master Augustus Benham, pianist, of Philadelphia, and the Palestrina Italian Choral Society, a new organization, will all make their first appearance. Mr. J. Levy and Gilmore's full band are likewise announced. A fine programme has been arranged for the next rehearsal and concert of the Chickering Hall sym- phony concerts, under the direction of Mr. G. Carl- berg. The overture is from “Ruy Blas,’’ and selected by special request. Mr. Richard Hoffman will play a concerto arranged for orchestral accompaniment, and Mrs. J. K. Barton will sing one of W. A. Mozart's arias from “Belmonte e Constanza."’ Mr. Ferdinand Dulcken, the well known pianist, also contributes an original movement arranged by him that will be per- formed for the first time. The rehearsal is marked down for January 23, at two P. M. ‘The Opera Comique, London, at which theatre Sul- Jivan and Gilbert's nautical opera “H. M. 8. Pinafore” was originally produced and has been played some three hundred nights, announce that in accord- ance with the conditions of the lease they are obliged to close the theatre for repairs and redecora- tion, and will reopen the same on February 3, with the same opera. This 1s a proof of the popularity which the opera has attained in London. At the Standard Theatre, in this city, the opera is now run- ning smoothly, and the public are evidently being attracted by the desire to witness a new and amusing musical sensation. ‘The last week of the Strakosch operatic season com- mences to-morrow. It is said that, thus far, it has wen attended with success. With such admirable artistes as Kellogg, Cary and Pantaleoni personating the best known of operatic characters, the draucht power should have been excellent, although it is well known fact that many of the singers have suf- fered from influenza. Verdi's opera of “Aids” is tc be presented to-morrow evening, and “Faust” is billed for Tuesday. Mile. Ima De Murska has been specially engaged by Mr. Strakosch to appear as Leo- nora, in “Il Trovatore,” on Thursday, an occasion that will be doubtless marked by a large attendance. The programme for the concert of the Arion Si ciety at Steinway Hall on next Friday evening will comprise several new features. In addition to the orchestra of the Symphony Society, of sixty pieces, under the leadership of Dr. Damrosch, there will be the Arion Society’s chorus of ninety voices. Among the lady soloists will be Miss Henne and Mrs. Swift, and among the others are Messrs. Bischoff, Graff, Remmertz, Keppler, &c. A prologue has been spe- cially written for this concert by Dr. L. Schenk, which will be read by Miss Louisa Muldener. The song, “The Spirits Above the Waters" (F. Schubert), will be rendered by eight male voices, with the Arion chorus and full orchestra. e The concert tour of the new Reményi-Rive-King combination will open at Albany on Thursday even- ing next. The programme to be played at these concerts, generally, includes the first movement from Beethoven's concerto in C minor, allegro from Schu- mann's opus 26; Guilmant’s prelude and fugue, and Listz’s fantasie on Hungarian airs, by Mme. Kinge Ernst’s fantasie on “Othello,” Chopin's nocturn and mazurka, Reményi’s Hungarian melodies, and Paga- nini’s capriceias, by M. Reményi; and songs from Donizetti, Wagner, Schubert and Cowen, by Miss Ger- trude Franklin and Mr. Franz Kemmertz, who nave been engaged to support the stars of this combina tion, which alsoincludes Mr. Ferd. Dulcken as cous ductor. THE ic. HARKINS-FISKE SUIT. Messrs. Howe & Hummel, counsel for Stephen Fiske, filed yesterday an answer to the complaint in the suit brought against him in the Supreme Court by Daniel H. Harkins, The substance of the com- plaint, alleging violation of contract and other dere- lictions by Mr. Fiske, as associate proprietor of the Fifth Avenue Theatre, has been published in the Henanp, ax also Mr. Fiske’s reply. The answer, which is merely formal, is as follows:—Now comes Stephen Fiske, the above named defendant, by Howe & Huinmel, his attorneys, and in answer to the com plaint of the above named plaintiff respectfully shows to the Court— First—That he denies each and every al the complaint aforesaid not hereinafter admitted. Srcond—Thix detendant admits the existence of the copartnership agreement annexed to the complaint aforesaid and made a part thereof. Wherefore the detendant demands judgment against the plaintif, that the plaintiff's complaint may be dismissed with such other and further relief as may be propets together with the costs. 4 NOATHAMPTON BANK ROBBERY. Among the bonds stolen at the Northampton Bank robbery in January, 1876, were six Missouri Pacific rtgaye Ponds, The conpons belonging to these is were presented on Friday for payment to the y in this city, There were February and August, of 1876, 1877 and 1 he company had been notitied that these particular bonds were stolen, and as soon ax the coupons were presented they sent word to. the owner of the bonds, a geutleman in this city, aud delayed payment. The owner attempted to prevent the payment, but the holders of the coupons, a reputable banking firm of this city, demanded we and threatened to protest the cous smpany paid the amount by its check about half-past five o'clock, 1 payment of thi check was yesterday morning enj: r rett on applicatio attorneys, and the right to these ¢ is to be litigated. ‘The coupons came to this try from 6 np through @ highly reputable fry ‘They are supposed to be a part of $100,000 of stole securities which it is said the Northampton robbers have negotiated in Europe. bon Missouri Pacific Com thirty-six coupons, de THE SUGAR QUESTION. A petition was forwarded yesterday to Congrosss man Fernando Wood, chairman of the Committee of Ways and Means, signed by a large number of ime porters of Demerara dark centrifugal sugars, asking that a small appropriation be made by Cougress te defray the expenses of sending an expert to Demerars to examine into the manufacture aud mode of hand. ling the raw material, the duties of this expert to be to ascertain whether the sagarts exported this country are artificially colored, as charg Messrs. Maitland, Phelps & Co., Howland & Asp wall, H. Trowbridge’s Sons and Havemeyers & c paliiogers,