The New York Herald Newspaper, September 26, 1873, Page 3

FALL FASHIONS. —— Opening | Day Among the Milliners. Wall Street Has No Terrors for the Modiste- A Grand Display of Styles and Materials, and Greater Crowds Than Ever Before. The Lay of the Last Bonnet and Song of the Early Robe. While far and wide the throesoftne financial earthquake that has desolated Wall street are felt, and while great houses that have braved the fury of many a storm in that ill-starred quarter, come crashing down one after the other, the realms of Fashion are as serene and bright as if ali was peace and plenty around them. While the Stock Exchange is closed and gloomy faces are to be seen in the hunting grounds of the stock gam- bler and railroad speculator, the shrine of the modiste is decked in its brightest and gayest attire, and to it throng the myriad worshippers of the chameleon deity. Wall street has no terrors for the modiste, for the daughters of Eve will come to ber, even 1f husband, father or lover must sacrifice their last bond. For the last two days Broadway and Sixth avenue, those two great thoroughfares on which that ever changing, often fantastic and never to be ignored creation of feminine fancy, the fashionable toilet, is to be seen in all its glories ‘and extravagances, have presented @ sight of almost carnival galety and excitement. Lines of carriages before the stately houses on the former street and struggling crowds on the sidewalks of the latter, where the stores, like the American Institute Fair, contain everything from a frame building to a toothpick, from a ball dress to a paper ol pins. Talk of impending disaster in any of those houses. The only complaints to be heard were from the overworked clerks and tired modistes, from whose cheeks rosy tints had long de- parted. And all day long surged the crowd, now pouring into one of those magnificent Broadway marts, where everything is spick-span new each season, and where every clime under the sun contributes towards the countless treasures of fashion spread out before the admiring gaze of the beholders, and now wedging themselves into a Bolid mass into a Sixth avenue bazaar, that Kaleidoscope of modern requirements, still re- volvea the pinwheel of fashion, with its flashing glories, which are being constantly repeated, and around it throng the vetaries, eager for every nov- elty, which often proves to be some old friend in a Dew shape, No wailing cry over lost securities is heard there. Costumes for collaterals, mantuas for margins, barege and boas for bulls and bears, polonaise andj cashmere for puts and calls, rule in these quarters. HARMONY IN DRESS. To be in the fashion is a term often used and yet Nttle understood by many ladies. It is gratifying that a glimmering of its true meaning is beginning to dawn on the female mind. Adaptability not only to figure, age, and complexion, but to circum- stances and surroundings is received pretty gene- rally as the modern interpretation of the word— fashion. A showy bonnet with a dowdy dress or a trail of cotton or serge in imitation of a silk recep- tion or visiting robe, is contrary to the laws of the imperious goddess. Harmony in a toilet is the most desirable end to be attamed by those who wish to dress a la mode. There is such a vast variety of styles and materials and prices, too, now- @-days to select from, that no lady has any excuse for being unfashionable in her dress. THE MILLINERY OPENINGS » yesterday claimed the principal share of attention. ‘The crowning glory of a toilet, the bonnet, was shown in so many varieties that it is a dificult task to remember any but the most striking. To give those airy nothings a local habitation and a mame taxed the ingenuity o! some of the modistes, for so dainty were they that we feared to touch them, lest, like the sheen of a butterfy’s wing, they would disappear. And the names! Where 80 two bonnets are alike classification is out of the question annd description often the same. His- tory and the stage have been ransacked for names antil they are exhausted. All the ingenuity of which the feminine mind is capable has been exer- cised this season in designing new shapes for hats and bonnets, and yet in most cases the result is but a modification of those worn a season or two ago. The display of bonnets at Lord & Yaylor’s was all the heart of a milliner could desire. A bonnet from Mme. Vivot's, Paris, was in three shades of sage and was handsomely trimmed with roses and & long ostrich plume, shaded to match the hat. The inside trimming consisied of puffings of silk. Beside it was a pretty hat of navy blue velvet Caught up onone side by @ bunch of roses and trimmed around the crown with double box plaits, faced with light turquoise blue and finished with a handsome ostrich tip. A group of eager faces hovered around a coquettish little hat designed for ®@ young miss in her teens. It was of the Nor- Mandy shape and the trimming of the front consisted of beantiful tea roses, while around it were small tips caught tn the back with loops of ribbon. The three shades of dark green of which the hat consisted were so nearly alike that it would be im- possible to designate the exact difference, and yet each produced its own individual effect. A round hat, with a felt brim turned up on one side, was of a@light shade of drab, with turquoise biue trim- ming, a long, shaded ostrich plume, moss roses and steel ornament. Very distingué looked a black velvet bonnet, trimmed with tne same material and pink silk. A wing was formed on the side by a Jarge plait, and around the front towered a heavy jet coronet. A trail of lace and ribbon to match dell at the back, and the blush of the red, red rose relieved the darkness of the crown. A PEEP AT THE EARLY ROBES. In the reception room, in which everything is blue, trom the carpet and tasselled hangings to the bo cover and library, magnificent robes, the ‘avant couriers of the season, were placed on exhi- bition, On a raised dais, fit ior an empress, was a rich biack silk dress en train, having but one skirt only. Around the lower part of the skirt was a deep flounce of black silk and large puffings of the same extending to the waist. The tuil plaited front had rows of handsome jet, caught on one side by large jet Duckies and silk bows. A postil- Hon jacket, elaborately wimmed with jet, com- pleted this handsome robe. Near it, as a con- trast, was placed a long gray polonaise of “gros royale” silk, heavily trimmed with deep bands of black velvet, large menterie ornaments and delicate iringe, ail éf the same shade as the silk. Mousquetaire cufls completed this strikingly handsome garment. A stylish de- sign for a very young lady (the comparative must be used in regard to age When speaking of toilets) Was an overdress an pas jacket artistically combined. The material was heavy camel's hair, Of a light brown shade. A deeper shade of brown ribbon, with heavy bow, in the back, sustained by Jet buckles, formed the ‘trimming. ‘The jacket was @ouble breasted and very becoming. Nothin; could exceed the faultless symmetry ol @ black i and cashmere robe, the underskirt of which con- sisted of black silk, trimmed with side plait- ings, headed with ‘9 shell trimming of cash. mere. The outside garment wae of cash- mere, ornamented with — black an Jet, heaaed with feather trimming. lt was a costume that Eugénte might sigh after. A reception robe of gris de perle, With Jong train and deep flounce around the bottom of the entire skirt, headed with large puffs ot silk, attracted admiration. The over-dress was trimme: in the front with fringe of a corresponding shade and with large bows of the silk. It terminated in the @ large silk sash caught up on one side. The corsage matched the skirt in its hand- some fringe trimming. pargeny a AVENUR WA8 CROWDED joppers in quest of new styles, Mac; Bala ‘his ree millinery opening, and tne sce other departments of this house, ft was a success, The entire establishment was so crowded that many ladies were compelled to postpone their it to the millinery depart- ment until another Some of the hats Were ctylish enough for the most exacting taste, One, a cottage shape, was of a dark shade of biue, and was trimmed around the crown with’ hand- some black thread lace, sulphur roses and a lon, ostrich plume falling at the back. Another was absinthe shade, the crown consisting of large plait- of slik, caught in the centre with large bow: the same material, the velvet rim belbg of @ NEW YORK HERALD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 1873—TRIPLE SHEET. darker shade of Three shades of the same lor in the long ostrich feather and willo’ ‘The inside trimming was tips. rmed by rolls of turquoise biue ribbon. A dark brown bonnet, with low crown and im, ‘wag magnificently trimmed with ostrich feathers, of the natural color, headed with a pretty pompon. All aay long the crowd threnged around th counters, on which were displayed white pce and housekeeping materiais, laces and embroid- rian, notines small wares, ribbons, flowers and feathers, gentlemen’s wares, gloves, hosiery and undergarments, parasois and dolls, books an toys, carved wood and dress trimmings, house fur- niture and toys, Altman & Co. had also a busy time during the week. Rich fall suits and costumes, dress goods in every Varicty, new silk materials, trim: Se for dresses a. cloaks, ribbons, embroideries and a bewildering array of oxydis were on exhibition, There were many pretty suits, adapted for the street or carriage. A very retty girl donned ® showy costume of net silk, with rows of gathered flounces in the very full skirt, an overskirt fitting close to the hips, apron front, with wide-beaded yak lace and insertion, Another costume had plaited ruch- ings in the neck and an abundance of passemen- terie, A carriage dress was trimmed in front with deep, beaded fringe and a skirt very full in the back. The basque corsage was of a novel pattern, with a Pompadour back and double-breasted front. A. T. STEWART had a millinery and suit opening, and the display was magnificent, Scores of costly Parisian bon- nets were on exhibition, and novel shapes and ma- terials met the eye on every side. A bonnet of bronze velvet, comege ae In shape, with double strings of bronze and pink, black lace one bronze bows, full blown rose, pink ostrich re and jet and steel ornaments, was placed side by side with # hat of paon blue, the brim of which was caught up on one side by a plume de cocq and natural ostrich tips. Three oon of gros grain ribbon to match; short bows, with black lace scarf overhanging the face; trim- mings of handsome roses completed this jaunty- looking hat. ‘The brim of another black velvet hat was caught up, or rather roiled up entirely at the back, and around it was a handsome trimming of ostrich tips to match. A small, rolled, plain front, handsome. aigrette, lowers and autumn leaves, heavy loops of black velvet and pink gros grain completed this stylish work of art. Mourning hats in be ag 4 conceivable style were there; also Piumes of the most enticing description, in which halt a dozen shades of the same color were sometimes skilfully combined, and bridal wreaths which might Worn at a royal wedding. A number of elegant black silk costumes were to be seen in another department. One was particularly handsome. The single skirt, en train, was trimmed in front with velvet plait- , and the front was pretty in its three loose folds of the Lege each with a jet iringe and pufilng of velvet. The back was in three dee ruffies and foids of velvet at the side, fnished wit! loops of velvet and jet buckles. The entire bottom of the skirt was braided with velvet and the effect of the combination of both materials was inde- scribably beautiful. Velvet and jet trimming and handsome cuff bows were the Jeatures of the tight- fitting cor: The immense house, which is re- plete with every conceivable kind of Good was a8 crowded and ita busimess a8 great as if Wall street never existed. RESULTS OF WORLD'S FAIRS, Honorable rivairy has been stimulated for some years past by the expositions 0/ the various coun- tries. Manufactures have been spurred on to attain perfection in their various lines and an in- centive has been given to industrial pursuits which has been of incalculable benefit. This spirtt of emulation is contagious, and we find it now in every branch of the modiste’s art. There 1s a deal of spirit and boldness shown this fall. The fear lest the revival of cape and crown to the bonnet would bring back the close cottage or hideous coal-scuttie styles of by-gone days has vanished, and the result is an array of picturesque shapes, such as were neyer dreamed of before. Nothing too 1s to be seen, but every- thing kept within the bounds of good taste. Tie ices are as varied as the styles, and no lady need e afraid o1 being out of fashion in this important articular, if she consult her own taste and means in the selection ofa bonnet. Rich, yet quiet com- binations are in vogue, and all that is loud, glar- ing or extravagant is rigidly tabooed. THE BONNET OF THE PERIOD. Mme. Rawlings’ bonnets were characterised by taste in style and richness in material, A blac! velvet, with @ rolling brim, had jet butterflies in front and a long ostrich plume of ashes of rose color, @ bunch of steol colored ypes and a@ rich pompon of dark hue. Another » Of the same material and not unlike it in shape, was remark- able for the happy combination of shades in the willow-tipped ostrich plume of Nile green, and was trimmed with turquoise blue and dark currant velvet, an elaborate pompon and a jet rim. A third was a cottage bonnet, of the same material, over which circled an immense ostrich plume, tipped with willow. Olive and bronze grapes and leaves formed the front trimming. In it the old style of full face trimming was revived, but in a handsomer form, being an elegant wreath of hall- blown roses, over which fell a fringe of jet. Bonnets and round hats, in some of which natural and artificial roses were 80 skilfully cobmined as to defy a casual observer to tell the difference, attracted attention at the Maison Snedden. The perfume of the natural flowers even was ingeni- ously imitated in the artificial by the art of the perfumer, One lovely bonnet of white arnous was trimmed with real point, blue silk Frangaise, roses au naturel, with pompon aigrette and was a simile of one of Mme. Récamier’s célebres, Another in watered en, With rare antique lace, jooking as if it might have belonged to our great grandmother, » proof of the revivifying infuence of to-day’ fashions, was regarded with curi- osity. bonnet of navy blue velvet was trimmed with flowers fresh from the hothouse, fruit and plumes, being also the gifts of nature. Around these were other handsome bats—one of black, shirred with pink Oriental silk, sash and diamond crescent, in imitation of the Shah; another of black veivet, wilh antique Aubus- son, lace and bluck willow plumes, tipped with Tosebuds, bearing the title of Ozarina. Terry, in Union square, exhibited a bonnet, somewhat in the cottage shape, of a dark plum color, trimmed with velvet and silk twisted around the crown, falling gracefully at the back; @ lai ostrich feather of two shades of brown, confined by a large aigrette of the dark shade and smail ostrich tips, completed this work of art. A Marie Antoinette hat was trimmed in the front with large loops of black velvet, with a bunch of grapes and vine leaves bone on one side, turquoise and pink bows at the bi @ tull bloom rose and @ long trail of flowers. A young miss’ hat o: white felt was trimmed with white velvet and long ostrich feather ana steel arrow. Miss Oiney bad a grand exhibition of fall hats and bonnets this week. Among them was a black velvet hat, with the usual broad, rolling brim. A quadruple shaded ostrich tip (Cachou mousse, rose, bleue) adorned this hat. But everybod: rushed towards an opera hat of the Marie Stuar' pattern, There was a full crown of the silk. In Iront, of course, the usual black silk brim, yet the novelty comes in. Cut steel band, velvet front, muituorm shaded ostrich tips, with an abuodance of roses, shaded tipe, and face trimmings. Miss Olney displayed some of the most distingué bonnets of the season. Mme. Hartley had a number of magnificent bon- nets onexhibition. ‘The styles and materials were to be counted according to the time-honored word— legion. FASHION REFLECTIONS. The most casual observer cannot fail to notice that at ail seasons, and whatever the prevailing fashions may be, there are always three distinct classes of costumes in vogue. Couspicuens alike by reason of their superior numbers and showness are those worn for effect only. The most striking and outré designs of the season are taken, enlarged upon even to carica- ture, loaded witn trimming, and in every way ren- dered as é ag possible. The wearers, with no idea either of taste or fitness, and icss brains than taste, don them for the street, thus, at the same time advertising their vanity and ig- norance of the proprieties, and, in many cases, their want of some other place in which to display them. ‘Then there are tne feeble imitations of the above, worn be By! who, with not sufficient courage to originate for themseives, will wear anything and everything, no matter how outré or unbecoming, imply because others do, and hence we see a ort, dumpy figure attired in a style suitable only si for a call, slender one; and the result is anything but pleasing to the behoider, whatever it may be ior the wearer. ‘The third, and, sad to say, oy, far the smallest class, comprise the quiet, lady like and appropriate costumes which one meets with occasionally, and instinctively acknowledges the wearers to be ladies of taste. Tre prevatling fashion will most probabiy be modified to suit the an of figure and the purpose for which the costume is intended, and it matters not whether the material be rich er in- expensive there will be an individuality about it, @ certain fitness and beauty which is sure to be ap- reciated by those whose appreciation is worth ving. But simplicity, im street costumes at least, is at last becomi hiouable, and the signal demarca- tion noticeable this season between toilets and street costumes indicates a more refined taste, and qeoves that ladies are paying more attention than formerly to the nice distinctions which are in- tuitively understood by @ lady of taste between the various styles of tollet and costumes and their appropriate use, hile toliets are stately, yet very dressy in ef- fect, a general simplicity and marked unobtrustve- ness are noticeable in all costumes designed for the street. The fine qualities and subdued colors of the materials of the season preciude any dis- p’sy, but the desi for garments are much simpler than heretofore. In fact, were it not in many instances for the eae ta tations by the wearer to the leading garment, the redingote, the effect on our promenades would be too mo- noton ‘The thost novel designs of the season were ex- hibited at Mme. Demorest’s opening. Among the redingotes the La Belle and Madeleine at- tracted equal attention. The latter is d breasted in a di al manner, and is distinga! by a peculiar style of looping, The former is sin- gle-breasted, has a novel effect in the back, and 19 finished at the neck by the high Medicis fraise now ‘80 popular. A DISTINGUE POLONAISE. The Senora naise is decidedly one of the at moi designs of the season, equally ap- Li Tiga for @ dressy street costume or a home t. It was shown as the latter, made up in a rich plum color, with fine cordings of anew And peculiar shade of light green. The design has ned beck? broad tabs at the sides, which are car- back’ and fled together iy she back by prop » sashes, and a jaunty basque above. forming the back, and in trout ts a long Louis XVI. vest. Two other dinner dresses were arr! ively with polonaises known as the “Jessica,” both very long and pointed at the sides, the Bianca having also a vest. The latter was made up in black, with facings and bindings of Tose-color, over a skirt trimmed in a unique man- ner; and ‘the Jessica in gray and purple, with & skirt very simply yet handsomely trimmed. A jue design for a skirt .is the Genevieve demi » Which has the peculiar cut which im- parts the effect so desiravie at present, very plain in front and at the sides, is Was shown en costume with a deep, coat-shaped basque, for & house dress, The high standing Medicis fraise is added to neat sarmeaey nome ax bonee 4 aa owe ae arts a stately effect. ki 13 it becor 10 fidies with si¢nder necks. Various designs in Gabrielle dresses, now again 80 fashionable, were exhibitea, No other style of dress so charmingly displays a fine figure. When elaborately trimmed, a Gabrielle can be made quite elaborate enough for a dressy toilet, while a simple style can be used for ordinary house wear. The Empreas and the Royal are espectally graceful in cut and dest the former being shown made in black, with fine cordings of white, making a very effective and handsome dress, For street w are various novel and graceful designs in dolmans. The popularity of this style of garment was established lust season and seems not to have diminished. One of the most novel 1s known as the Cnristiane, which has the effect of & double-breasted jacket in the front, and is belted in te forma basque in the back. The Abbess is simpler in style, forming a talma in front and belted in the back; and the Laurine has deep, sqnare. mantilla tabs in front. independent garments in the shape of cloaks, paletots and jackets promise to be very fashion- able as the season advances. Most of the latest designs are made longer than those of last season. The favorite style 1s double breasted, and nas the Tevers 80 cut that they can be turned up toiorm & close neck. The Dayton paletot ts an exponent of this style, and the Raalins walking jacket is certain of as great popularity as it enjoyed several seasons since, ‘In basques for nouse wear the designs are strik- ingly nevel and stylish. The Helena, especially adaptea to cloth id heavy goods, is double- breasted, and has coat-shaped basques in the back. This is equally as well adapted to house or street wear, and would make a handsome riding habit. For more dressy wear the: Fifine claims the palm. This has a deep, rounded vest, and the de- sign of the back will be found becoming to most res, et overskirts the Ninon and Czarina deserve es- pecial mention. Both are Sreeee ney atstingué in effect and React, tea the lyfe idea of ‘“style.’? ‘The Ozarina is buttoned diagonally on one side of the front, and looped very high on the opposite side. The Ninon ornamented with revers on both back and front, cial attention {8 always paid to children’s fashions at this house, and the designs for stylish ments for little folks are almost endless—red- ingotes, overskirts, paletots, and the other neces- sary “fixings” for the little girls, and ali the essen- tial garments for the boys. ‘The display of millinery at Mme. Demorest’s was especially fine. Besides what are termed the lead- ing styles, a variety of special shapes and designs were shown. The Nilsson is a black chip hat of an entirel; new shape, the brim rolled very high on the le: and drooping at the right. The brim is lined with very light blue gros de Suez, and the rest of the trimming consists of rouleaux and bows of the silk, a large cut steel ornament on the lest sustain- ing the brim, and a cluster of shaded light green and tea roses at the back. The entire effect—color, style and shape—is perfect. The Torriani is & handsome bonnet of black velvet, the crown high, against which the trim- ming of rich black lace and a fine cut jet coronet is arranged in a particularly distingué manner. At the back a cluster of Malaga grapes and tinted #atin léaves, surrounded by lace, complete the umming. The Isolena is an especially striking combina- tion of a lovely shade of lavender with very dark purple. The bonnet has a rather high crown, with @ puffed coronet, acut steel ornament fasteniny @ shaded tip at the right side, and a bunch ol shaded yellow tulips and purple berries placed oD the left, near the back. Acharming hat is the Piamonte, a deep, navy blue felt of a new shape, the crown a medium height, and the brim rolied very high. The trim- ming is in two extreme shades of blue gros de Suez— very light and very dark, the effect, heightened by @ large cut steel ornament at the side, fastening a cluster of blue ostrich tips, beneath which nestles @ bunch of blush roses, The Sylvia is an evening hat of light biue vel- vet, trimmed in an original manner with wild roses and pale lemon ostrich tips. The Lucca is of gray felt, trimmed in two cx- treme shades of blue, exquisitely blended, the brim rolled high all around; a handsome cut steel buckle fastening, an ostrich plume, of the natu- ral color, which is disposed over the crown and falls gracefully at the back. ‘The Maresi 1a also of gray felt. trimmed with dark, olive, brown and bluish colors; the brim turned up very high at one side over a cluster of bluish roses and shaded ostrich tips arranged on the opposite side in a nove! manner. A noticable bonnet is of bronze-brown gros de Suez and velvet, with @ crown in melon putts, @ rolled brim, with broad revers on the right side and a wreath of shaded bronze, pink and tea roses ior the face trimmings. MUSICAL AND DRAMATIC NOTES. Miss Nilsson is to witness the performances of the Martonettes, at Robinson Hall, this evening. The Rev, Newman Hall is announced to lecture at Association Hall on Tuesday and Wednesday evenings of next week. Mr, Wilkie Collins has just arrived via Cunarder Algeria, and is occupying Charles Dickens’ old rooms at the Westminster Hotel. This is touching. The young actress known as “Little Nell” while playing in Chelsea recently was presented with a gold badge by the members of the Frost Hose Com- pany, on which her name was inscrived as an hon- orary member of their Department. Jimmie Rivers, a circus clown, has been sent to the Arkansas Penitentiary for one year, having been convicted of grand larceny. Rivers pleaded, with streaming eyes, that the demoralzing infu- ence of his stage traiuing in the larceny line, had misied him. Miss Kellogg, before she plunges into the mael- strom of English Opera, proposes to devote one evening to a New York concert, This is at the Hall of the East Side Association, Kighty-sixth street and Third avenue, Miss Kellogg will be as- sisted by Miss Matilda Toedt, violinist; Miss Luck- hardt, piano; Morgan, tenor; Ronconi, baritone, and Marzo, conductor. The name of Miss Kellogg ought to be sufficient te bring on Tuesday evening next a number of admirers. The play in which Signor Salvini appears at the Academy of Music this evening is “La Morte Civile,” by P. Giacommetti. It is in five acts and on the classic model, and telis a simple but profound story of the heart. Conrad, who fourteen years be- fore the drama opens, has been condemned to im- prisonment for life in the galleys at Naples for the murder of his wife’s brother, escapes and sets out to seek Rosalie, his wile, and Ada, his child. Sne has been succored by a benevolent physi- clan, Arrigo Paluvierl. His daughter Emma having died, Ada is adopted by him and given her name. kosalie holds the position of governess to her own child and Monsignor Gioacchino Ruvo, a malevolent churehman, suspects that Emma is the offspring of an illicit love between her and the doctor, as he is aware of the real Emma's death. The escaped con- vict arrives wayworn at the Monsignor’s abbey, and learns where his wife and daughter are. He is torn with remorse and jealousy; seeks Rosalie and demands that she and his child fy with him, The wife implores him to be content with taking her alone, so that the chila’s future may be assured and that she may never know her father’s disgrace. He is dead in the eye of the civil law, and he con- sents to this. The drama culminates with the death of Conrad from a broken heart, as his child bends over him, whispering “father” in his ear, although unconscious that he is her parent. Those who bave read ‘Enoch Arden” will perceive,the play of emotions to which a subject of this nature gives rise. ‘La Morte Civile’ advances more deeply into the terrible depths of the heart. The sufferer is stretched on a more exquisite rack than Tennyson’s hero. Areading of the text shows that it is @ story more in rough, bold outline than in intellectual finish or delicate psychological shading. Except Conrad, the char- acters are conventional and the language’is more suggestive than satisfying. It is to be read be- tween the lines more than almost any play pro- duced here for years. This interlineation can only be done by the actor in his gesture, in his exnibi- tion of the emotions, in the wondrous part of his art which is outside the bare words of his rdle. To Make this part a terrible, suffering, living reality instead of a skeleton of dialog sails for high ert. ‘The passions are merely notched, as it were, on the text, and Signor Salvint has wide room for the display of his best powers in actuaky portraying them. The play was written especiaily for Salvini. FOUND DROWNED. Coroner Kessler was notified yesterday to hold an inquest on the body of @ man who was found drowned at pier 35 North River, yesterday atter- noon, and identified as William Grebs, forty-tye Yoars old, @ Dative of GeTmMADYs THE NEWARK TWEEDITES The Difference Betwixt “Tweedle- dee and Tweedledumb.” How the Citizens’ Committee Are Treated and Ill- Treated by City Officials—The Evidence Ao- cumulating Against the Ring—Tax- payers Compelled to Pay the Same Tax Twice—A Tren- ton Bill That Cost Newark $1,700. Every day fresh proofs are produced and | Published in Newark bearing out the HEeRALp’s assertion of two years ago—sustained by columns of evidence, too—that there was im Newark, as there was in New York, Jersey City and elsewhere, a ring of corrupt city oMcials and others, who had been plundering the city. Every day fresh proofs accumulate on the HERALD representative’s hands, proving that the Newark ring still exists, though its fortunes appear to be on the wane, Iv flourishes no longer. In spite of the overwhelming chapter of THE CLEAREST FRAUD AND OUTRAGE on citizens by the ring, published in the HERALD on Tuesday, the ring organs have the effrontery to treat the matter as “mere street corner rumor.” It has been asserted and published as a fact that Mr. Caleb A. Earl was assessed nearly $6,500 for “improvements” to his prop- erty, the whole of which, “improvements” and all, he 1s ready to sell at any time for $2,000; that his cousin, Mr. W. H. Earl, a ‘wealthy man, has been called upon to pay the city anenormous sum for what he himself had done and paid for long before, with the approval of the then city offic that Joseph ©, Young, Chairman of one of the street commissions, and regardless of his solemn oath to put fair valuation on property and act the part of a disinterested freeholder be- tween citizens and the city, awarded $2,300 to Charles A. Taylor, his friend, for a house and lot he (Young) inducea Henry G. Lane, who was not his friend, to sell for $1,800 ten days before the award was published, In spite of the publication of all these well authenticated factsanda@ great deal more, neither the ring members nor their organs have made the slightest attempt at defence or explanation. They affect to treav THE DAMNING EVIDENCE already piled up against them as ‘mere rumor,” “street corner gossi) oF ier Still observe the Golden rule of stlencé. The official card writers, who at the outset set out to demolish facts with lame excuses and impudent, unsustained deniais, have wisely quit that business, They found out, to their cost, that sitnging ink at keen professional newspaper men was @ most unprofitable business as compared with ring work. Silence now reigns in the ring, and tts organs are dumb strack. This is the difference berween tweedledce and tweedle- dumb. There was a rumor about the Court House yesterday that some of the ring were trying to in- duce the Grand Jury to INDICT GERTAIN JOURNALISTS ona charge of libel, but up to the hour of the ad- journment of the Grand Inquest the rumor was not Verified, Whatever attempt may be made in that direction it 18 pretty certain that no indictment Would be found against any journalist unless he had clearly and intentionally disregarded the law. In New Jersey the constitution provides that the truth shall be accepted as evidence; hence, as in Penn- sylvania, an independent, fearless and outspoken press cannot be muzzled by any addition, division ana silence influences. THE WORKING COMMITTEES ofthe One Hundred have not all got to work yet, and the fact affords the leading ring organ an op- jortunity to sneer at and insult the committees. jut it loses sight of the fact that the Finance Committee, with all its facilt- ties, its “legality”? and the abundance of material before it, has done nothing whatever as yet in addition to the Broadwell deficit, though they have had nearly two weeks to work in and three well paid experts to assist them, At all events they have made no report, and one member says they have nothing to Tepore, It 18 evident that the Finance Committee might read the HERALD with great profit if they really were sincere in de- siring to unearth the frauds that are believed to exist—the “mistakes” and “irregularities” which have already been proven to exist, the records will show.’” The fact of the matter is, there 18 SCARCELY A PARTICLE OF CONFIDENCE placed in the ged of the Finance Committee. Ail three—two republicans and one democrat—are conceded to be honest men, but it is ieared the majority are bound up in party too much to permit them to go much out of their way to help smash the ring. As stated before in the HERALD, some Of the committees have been treated most courteously by some city officials, but others have adifferent story to tell. Yesterday the committee appointed to overhaul Mr. Joe Young’s commission transactions tried again to get access to some maps in possession of City Counsel Francis, but only succeeded aiter great trouble, and even then Francis mounted his high official horse and refused to allow one member the same facility in consequence of personal dislike. ‘This conduct of Mr, Francis is the more remarkable in view of the fact that when the HeRaup repre- sentative called on him later in the day tor some information he was a model of courtesy and very Chesterfield in politeness, The Committee on Tax Receivers also met with a rather cool recep. tion at first. After an explosion of considerable gas between the committees and the city officials matters were satisfactorily arranged, But if the committees, either of the i helded or the Council, have taper nes no terribly damaging facts against he ring, THE WERALD’S INVESTIGATING COMMITTEE OF ONE has been more successiul. Last winter the then Chairman of the Finance Committee, Mr. Theodore Macknet, refused to run the city more in debt than it was. He resigned and a great public scare followed regarding the financial condition of the city. ‘Ibe fathers had allowed the ring to rush them into ali sorts of extravagant and unneces- sary expenses for street tmprovements—such as Frelinghuysen avenue—and sewer improve- Mments—such as the Tenth ward ditch swindle, They exhausted the funds, Contractors had to get more, and finally they got up a bill known as the Comptroller bill, which granted the city power to raise a million and a half on bonds, &c. An eX-Alderman of the highest standing is responsible for the statement that the passage of this bill entailed @ bill on the city of $1,700 for ex- penses incurred by the Legislative Committee of the Common Council. A number of cases were also brought to light in which citizens, under circumstances of a most aggravating char- acter, Were compelled to pay taxes twice on the same property, under threat of having their prop- erty seized and sold. Ebenezer Wooley, @ poor, hard-working citizen, makes oath that he had to pay twice; that he proved to the satisfaction of city ofMfcials that he had done 80; _ that they toid him to come next year and it would be = = right; that he did, and they jaughed at 1m an CALLED HIM A FOOL. Other similar statements have also been made by responsible citizens. There is now belore the Court @ case of this kind, in which the city has been sned bys the citizen jor the amount of his overpaid tax. Another case of lg ot pea LM is that of two property holders on MafVern street. Mr. John Peraim and Mr. James Quinn both own two lots adjoining each other, The four lots are alike in appearance and value, except that Quinn has a house on one of his. His assessment tor opening the street was $9 14. Peraim’s is $23 50, Po paid his. Peraim defies the city to collect se THE LEYER-FRANCI8 CASE, It appears now that the transaction between City Counse! Francis and Florence Leyers, in which the latter had declared positively that he had been required by the City Counsel to sign a paper calling Jor $1,700, whereas his bill against the city was only half that amount, is heme vo an explanation. ‘The bill he signed was jor double the amount of his bill; but the double amount was required by law as an indemnity to the city. VINDICATION OF MR. SHEPPARD HOMANS. It is to be hoped that the following statement exonerating Mr. Sheppard Homans from charges made against him will put an end to the con- treversy between that gentleman and the Mutual Life Insurance Company of this city:— The re tat at the joint request of Messrs, Frederick S. Winston and Sheppard Homans, have, as arbitrators, considered the questions referred to them raised by the letter, dated August 21, 1873, from the Mutual Life Insurance vompany of New York, in regard to the relations of Mr. Homans with that company while he was its Actuary, and they do find and determine as follows rst—That the audit by Mr. Homans of the counts of the company subsequent to the quar- terly account, endin; print) 1, 1869, being the five subsequent audits refe tte were 80 made alter the cl ney pote tee 4 ox, td¥the non-payment of THE LIBERAL REPUBLICANS. Meeting of the General Committee Last Evening—A Call for Delegates to the Elmira Convention, ‘The Liberal Republican General Committee met last evening at No, 453 Fourth avenue, There was present a fall attendance from all the different As- sembly districts, but. very little business was transacted. In the absence of Mr, Thomas E. Stewart, Presi- dent of the committee, Professor Glaubenski took the chair, with Mr. D. A. Anderson acting as Secre- tary. After the reading of the minutes of the previous meeting the chairman of the Executive Committee of tne ot ‘ization offered the following resolu- tion, which was unanimously adepted :— Resolved, That the Secretary be hereby directed to publish a call for primary elections to be held on Wednes- day evening, Qotoder 1, at half-past seven o'clock, Jelegutes to the state Convention to be held at Elaura ‘ou (he Sth day of October, 1873, and that such call be in the terms of the call issued by the State Comunittee. Mr. POLHEMUS rose to speak in reference to the call to be issued, and said he hoped that in choow- ing delegates the door would be left open for all, and that any person who was really desirous should be eligible, without apy question or cavil about his Jormer antecedents. Gencral JouN COCHRANE also spoke on the reso- Jution, He had the most cheering news from all rts of the State as to the growth and spreading fluence of the liberal republican party, and on suggestion of Professor Glaubenski he moved that the delegates and alternates elected on October 1 should meet at the headquarters, No, 453 Fourth avenue, next Friday evening. This motion was also carried, Mr, PULLMAN rose to a question of privilege and spoke for ten minutes on certain resolutions which he had offered last July concerning the Board of Public Instraction, He also read an article from the Public school Journal which referred to these resolutions, and which animadverted on Mr. Pullman in rather strong terms. Mr, Pullman said the journal in question Was nothing but an advertising sheet, and of no real use to the community, which paid $6,000 per an- num for its services as a book of reference to teachers, On motion of Mr. TOWNLEY the resolutions were made the special subject of the next regular meet- ing. The meeting then adjourned. KINGS COUNTY POLITIOS Election of Delegates to the State Con- vention. The Assembly District Conventions to elect dele- gates to the State and Judiciary Conventions, to be held at Utica October 1, were held last nignt, when the following named gentlemen were chosen :— Dist. State, 1—Jesse M. Folk.. 2—Samuel D. Mor! 8—Dominick Roche James B, Craig. Henry J. Cullen, William D. Veeder. 4—Jobn G, Schumal Theo. N. Melville. 5—T, M. Riley John Courtney. 6—Herman L, W. D. Berdsal —— Bracken. 9—Robert Fury NEWARK CITY POLITICS. phate ha. be, Ex-Congressman Perry Nominated tor Mayor by the Democrats. The Democratic Convention to nominate a can- didate for Mayor and other city officers met yester- day afternoon in Newark. The Convention was largely composed of men not in the habit of being seen at local party assemblages, and the proceed- ings were spirited in detail and most harmouious in action, Ex-Sheriff A. M. Reynolds was chosen chairman, and Messrs. James Coursted and M. D. O’Connor, secretaries, After alively debate on a motion to adjourn temporarily, which was lost, the names of Nehemiah Perry, John ©, Littell, k. M. Reynolds, John McGregor and 't, W. Dawson were offered for Mayor. On the first ballot Perry had over two-thirds, and the nomination was made unanimous amid great enthusiasm. Adolph Schalk was renominated Water Commissioner, and Towns- end Dusenbury and Christian Viedenmeyer were chosen for Surveyors of Highways, Mr. Perry, the democratic nominee for Mayor, is an old resident and retired business man of Newark. He has served two terms in Congress. The first time he ran against and beat ex-Governor William Mera ton, who was long considered invincible in the old Filth district of New Jersey. Tne next time he ran against and beat Joseph P, ring 4 now Associate Justice of the Supreme Court o1 the United States. Mr. Perry ever since has had the reputation of be- ing an extraordinary worker and @ hard man for any politicians to tackle, THE REPUBLICANS will held their convention next week. They ap- pear tb be considerably split up in Newark on the mayoralty question. One wing, which has a main eye to the German vote, is solid for Mayor Ricord having a third term; the other wing wauts to cap- ture the temperance men and nominate somebody who will enforce the Sunday law, which Mayor Ricord has treated as a dead-letter. Should Ricord be nominated, as seems nowa foregone conclu- sion, it is not unlikely that a third ticket will be putin the field by the “Law and Order Party,” with the Temperance Committee of One Hundred at its head, “POLITIOAL NOTES. An old adage, modernly applied—“Back pay (like ‘Brag’) is a good dog; but some Congressmen think ‘Hoidfast’ a better,” Senator Wright, of Towa, ¢xplains his back pay manipulations. Did two wrongs ever make & right? No, but a number of wrongs have made several United States Senators from Kansas, An Iowa paper has just discovered that women re beginning to take an active part in politics. Last yerr, it says, Matilda Fletcher was by far the most etiective speaker the republicans had in Iowa, and now Julia Garretson is “knocking the socks’ (Western phrase) off all the grange orators, Had not the gentile Julia better be employed in darning the socks rather thap knocking them off of anybody? A Westernpape., .v...entiu, apon the refusal of the ratlroads to make cheaper rates to the Illinois State Fair, says, in the words of the old plantation melody, ‘The day of retribution am a comin’.” To be foilowed, probably, by @ day of contribution among stockholders. Wilder Foster, of Michigan, elected to succeed vhomas W, Ferry in Congress, is said to be hope- lessly ill. ‘The fact that such a number of banks went by the board in the recent crash ts evidence that their managers did not husband their resources—in short, were “patrons of husbandry” in no sense. N. Greene Curtis, itis said, will be a candidate before the California Legislature for the United ecutive officers in regard post-mortem dividends. Second—That the letter written by Mr, Homans in regard to the St, Louis Mutual Life Insurance Company, was an act of court in reply to a re- quest for information, and that said letter was pri- vate and confident! ‘similar letter” referred to, en by Mr. Homans to the Hon, William Barnei was not directed to the case of any named. ite company, but was simply an opinion on an ac- tuarial questior ve ribe no blame to Mr. Homans the matter of periorming services to other con panies. cover the charges in the letter of ve. The foregotn; Mr. Stuart, and are found by us as abo' E. H. OWEN, NBW Xone, Sept 24, 1873 «= WM, A. ARAVA, States Senate. Several others are mentioned In the same connection. A LAKE DISASTER. Sinking of the Schooner Whiting on Lake Michigan—A Furious Gale—Great DiMcalty in Rescuing Part of the Crew—{'wo Men Washed Away. GRAND Haves, Mich., Sept. 25, 1973, The schooner Whiting went ashore near this city during the night and since daylight the wind has been blowing a terrible gaie from the west. The vessel is heavily laden with salt and her deck is even with the water. About nine o’clock this morning the captain and one man leaped into the water and, to the amazement of the assembled crowd, succeeded in reaching the beach. Soon after this one of the Ironside’s lifeboats, manned by @ crew of five men, put of from the shore, but, before reaching the schooner, the boat filled and capsized, one oi the crew, named Coffee, @ resident of Grand Haven, being drowned. The tug Miranda then started with one lifeboat and one yawl towed astern, and succeeded in dropping the ‘yaw! alongside the schooner. The four men jumped from the rigging into the boat and were eted by the cheers of a thousand spectators, e next moment the yawl plunged under the schooner’s bobstay and rolled over. Three of vhe sailors again succeeded in reaching the rigging. The other was seen for amoment, when an im- mense breaker swept the poor ieliow out of sight. The tug came into port, righted the boats and again started for the relief of the men. jain the boat got to the vessel’s aide, but swamped before the men could leave the rigging. Everything possible will be done to save ti unfortunate seamen; but itis @ terrible task. Ifa pi ey or bara nina terd here in a suit- able lifeboat si me occurrences would not bé tecérded, ‘ ‘i LaTeR.—At half-past one P.M, the tng Miranda succeeded in getting alongside the schooner Whitt ing, and took of the three men. The bodies of two men who were drowned have not yet veen re- covered. The body of a man. supposed to have been drowned ‘roms the steamer Tousides, was found on = Dine miles north of this place, this morn- A BAXTER STRBET AOOIDENT. Pascoley Bardo, an Itatian doy, aged five years, living at No. 7 Baxter street, fell yesterday from the fifth story window into the yard and died in- atantiy. Coroner Herrman held the inquest and the ie ‘fendered @ verdict of “Depth from am siden 3 THE CHIEF JUSTICESHIP. Interviews with New York Judges. CURTIS FOR CHARLES 0’CONOR, Fancher and Davis in Favor of William M. Evarts. What Is Expected of thg President. The question, Who shall be the next Chief Justic@ of the United States? is at present the all-absorb=, {ng one, both to the journalistic and the judiciak mind, and, from all appearances, tt will remain sar Until the Sphinx of the White House shall think ie to dispel all doubts and conjectures, Pending this, & HERALD reporter, being charged with the mise, sion of ascertaining the views of the Judges in thie city on the great national conundrum above men~' tioned, wended his steps yesterday into the nev Court House and into the private room of the. Judges of the Supreme Court, where he found Judges Davis and Fancher in the act of taking a light lunch after the end of their labors for the day. To encroach upon the privacy of grave and reverend aéignors, aa Sus preme Court Judges are generally supposed to be, on such am occasion, would seem to require an extra amount of assurance im an ordinary mortal, and the HERALD representa~ tive was abashed for a moment; but’ duty over4 came modesty, and, without any circumlocution, he announced the object of his visit. At this Junctur Judge Davis was munching away at a great rate at abam sandwich, while Judge Fancher was Gide cussing a cold pigeon. INTERVIEW WITH JUDGE NOAH DAVIS, Turning to Judge Davis the HERALD reporter r¢= marked :— by} “Would you, perhaps, consent, Judge, to give m@ at @ more convenient time your views on ta@ present vacancy in the Chief Justiceship ?”” 4 Judge Davis (taking a vigorous bite at his sande wich, which well-nigh choked his utterance)—AlE I desire to say is that I hope William M, Evarta will be the next Chief Justice of the United States, RePoRTER—Do you think his chances for the apq pointment are good ? ss Judge Davrs—I know no more about it than this brown paper parcel (pointing to the article im question, which was lying on the table). But know he would be a very good Chief Justice. « Seeing the futility of further conversation wit the Judge on a subject regarding which he pro« fessed to know no more than an inanimate browm paper parcel, the HERALD reporter desisted. The more so because Judge Davis at this juncture’ turned to his colleague, who was just then discuss, ing the remaining hind leg of the cold pigeon, and humorously remarked, “This will make you pigeon~ hearted, sure.” Having delivered himself of thie joke, which was duly appreciated by a loud horses laugh, Judge Davis made his exit. JUDGE FANCHER ON THE CHIEF JUSTICESHIP, ‘The interview that followed with Judge Fancher, who isa gentleman of benevolent mien, proves more satisfactory. The conundrum, “Who would be tne best mam for Chief Justice of the United States?” being pro~ pounded to him, Judge Fancher replied— “If Charles O’Conor were younger than he is h@ would be by all odds my choice for Chief Justice. As it is, I thiuk the appointment of William Ma Evarts would give general satisfaction, afd E believe he has the best chances for it.” REPORTER—Do you suppose, Judge, that Presi- dent Grant would be likely to appoint @ democrat like Charles 0’Conor ¥ Judge FaNcuER—Why not? There are precedents: for it, both in this State and city. I was myself nominated by republicans and democrats. The appointment of Judges ought to be entirely free’ from political considerations, for they must admin- ister Justice without regard to party. ReporteR—Is there # precedent ior the appoint, ment of a democrat as Chief Justice of tne United ow by @ republican administrauion, ana vice Judge FancHer—Well, Ithink not, There hava been so very few appointments of Chiel Justices— hence there is no precedence applying to thig office. + Rerorrer—It is said that Senator Conkling has: already been offered the Chief A ttt and that nee nor considering whether he shouid accept or refuse it. Judge FaNcHER—I do not believe it. There are many reasons why Senator Conkling should not be appointed, one of them being that he is a partisan, which would make the appoiutment appear as @ reward for political service. ‘think, that Willlam M, Evarts is fully as good a jurist as Conkling, and probabil, @ much better one. The President is not limites to Mr. Evarts. There is Amasa J. Parker, of Al- bany. His appointment would not fail to give sat- istaction, I think Joseph H. Choate, Mr. Evarts? artner, would make a@ very good Chief Justice. le has all the necessary qualifications, He is a fine speaker and well versed in legal lore. In some respects he is even preferable to Wiliam M. Evarts, having more force and vitality than the latter. Rerorter—If you were called upon, Judge, to make a choice, whom would you select of all men? dudge FaNcneR—Without further thought choose William M. Evarts, and I think it is time the, appointment was made. ‘The HERALD 18 quite, right in urging it. The President has now had’ ample time for its consideration. The people: ought to be given @ chance to express. their opinion on the man selectea before his appointment is submitted to the Senate for con- firmation. In fact, the Senators ought to be ena- bled to give the subject deep thought betore their meeting in December. Then poi lee shape their course according to ihe verdict the meantime pronounced by the people. « RePorTER—Is it not probable that the President, May appoint one of the Assoctate Justices of the United states Supreme Court? Judge FaNcHER—The Associate Justices of the United States Supreme Court are very able men, but it is not probable that the President will dis- turb their present relations. JUDGE CURTIS ON THE QUESTION. The HERALD representative next ascended the steps to the Superior Court, where Judge Ours sat, patiently lisvening to a cause which was more than ordinarily wearisome and uninteresting. After the adjournment of the Court, as Judge Curtis stepped out of the enclosur: the HRaL reporter accosted him, stating the o.,¢¢b of his: visit, » Judge Curtis remarked—I think Charles OrCODeE {8 the man of all inen for the position of ©... Justice, The magnitnde of his services has not yeu been apprectated. He bas saved this State and’ city from Pog a im our own country as well as abroad, and he has given his valuable services without remuneration or hope oi reward. To his great and unceasing efforts it is due that the ‘ram- many thieves o/ tnis city have been or are being brought to justice. REPORTER.—It is said that Charles O’Conor is somewhat too oid for the office. Judge Curtis—His age should be a cause for giving bim precedence over all others, But he is yet quite vigorous. A practice at the bar of forty-five vears and his great legal learning and experience in the United States Supreme Court. fit him, above all others, for the highest judicial position. His ap- pointment would be @ great benefit to this State In Particular, as he possesses the peculiar ability re- quired tor the solution of the important ques- tions that will probably come _ obeiore the next Chief Justice, such as the currency Coie and others of equal magnitude. ithout desiring to reflect upon such men as Wil- liam M, Evarts; Judge Curtis, of Boston; Senator Conkling and others, I think the man of the reatest judicial experience should fill the office of hief Justice, which I septe equai in importance to that of President of the United States. REPORTER—It seems, however, highly improbable that the President wili appoint a democrat, Ju CuRTIS—I do not know a about that, “I believe the President has the honest inten- tion of appointing the wisest and safest man. Of course, he may be misied by his advisers. If he, ves the high office to the right man, I shall cer- falniy not think that be has taken too much time for the consideration of the appointment, MILITARY OOUBTESIES. ALBANY, N. Y., Sept. 25, 1873, The Rhode Island battalion, which has been handsomely entertained by the Teuth regiment, visited the State Fair to-day, and this evening a grand dress parade in their honor took place in. Washington Park. The American Band a Battalion Glee Club gave a grand complimentary concert. The battalion start homeward to-morrow morning. The banquet last night waa one of the handsomest affairs of the Kind ever given here. ESCAPE OF OONVIOYS FROM SING SING. Povcnxrersig, N. Y., Sept. 25, 1873, Three convicts escaped from Sing Sing Prison this afternoon by jumping on a passing frei train bound south, The names are Heary ine Ww Reuly and Wiluam Shipaen,