The New York Herald Newspaper, June 23, 1873, Page 5

IN THE GARLIST CAMP, Graphic Description of the Carlist Base of Operations at Urdax, The French Body Guards of Carlos VII. COUNT D'ALCANTARA’S PARIS CAVALRY. The Grand Marshal Marquis de Valde Espinas. The Art of ‘ Making» War With- out Gunpowder. The Cure of Santa Cruz Means Business. Butchery at the Bridge of En Darlaza. The Belligerent Cure Rising to the Position of an Inde- pendent Chieftain. The Herald Correspondent Off for the Oure’s Headquarters. OaRList Fort PENA DE PLATA, June 6, 1873. On the high road from Bayonne to Pampeluna, within half an hour’s walk of the frontier Custom House of Doucharinea, is situated, in a kind of peep-hole, the village of Urdax. It is surrounded on all sides by mountains, so as to be almost hid- den from the eyes of the travellers who, m more peaceful times undertake a carriage journey to Pampeluna through the picturesque valley of Bastan. From a purely military point of view uRDAX is quite an impossible place, for no force of any kind could defend itself there from the attack of an enemy holding the surrounding mountains. But the Carlists, always relying upon their good legs and sharp eyes, have from the outset selected that little village as one of the starting points of their Operations, It 18 within an easy reach of the con- trabandists carrying arms and ammunition across the frontier, and this alone was quite sufficient to render the otherwise quite unsuitable village one of the most important starting points of CARLIST OPERATIONS. Tt is here that guns and ammunition are stored, volunteers assembled and drilled, cartridges manu- factured and wounded attended to. Whenever the ermemy approaches the Carlist force stationed at. the village climbs the surrounding mountains and takes position on them, if it feels strong enough, or else runs away along the French ‘rontier to Zugarramurdy, Pefla de la Plata and other inac- cessible mountain refuges situated between Urdax and Vera. Within these last five or six days the little village has been particularly animated and particularly interesting. Some of the best known representa- tives of both the Spanish and French legitimist parties were assembled here, under the protection of some five hundred new Carlist volunteers, of ‘whom scarcely any one was more than twenty years old, while many were lads of twelve and thirteen, the whole force possessing NOT MORE THAN THREE HUNDRED CARTRIDGES to defend itself from the attack of an enemy’s column over a thousand men strong, and marching with two cannons from St. Estaban, apparently straight on Urdax. On the 2d of June, when L reached the village, having been commissioned to go for the HERALD once more among the Carlists, there was not only an air of quietness, but even ong of festivity, about Urdax. On the previous day the fort of i PENA DE LA PLATA WAS CONSECRATED, and the flag hoisted on the first Carlist fortress, Speeches were delivered on the occasion, mass celebrated, anda banquet given, for which wines and provisions were @rought over from Bayonne and St. Jean de Suy, and of which traces were to be still seen in the faces of the officers who had had * A DROP TOO MUCH. 5 »But on the 3d every trace of the festivity was over and a heavy gloom was to be seen on all faces. Some bad news reached Urdax on that day. In the first place, several thousand English made cartridges were seized by the French gend- armes, on the frontier, during the night; in the second there were no copper cartridge cases in stock for making cartridges, and in the third the republican Colonel Tajada, after having fortified St. Estaban, seemed to indicate an intention of marching on Urdax, had already reached Elizondo, and could easily begin to shell Urdax in two or three hours. “What shall we do?’ was a question to be read on every one’s face. Colo- nel Marquis de Las Hermazas, nephew of the Comxmander-in-Chief Elio, was at the head of the 600 lads and the 300 cartridges. No one couki question his personal courage, since the gentleman had no less than thirty-seven ‘Wounds on and about his body, and attempted last year to take the citadel of Pampeluna all by him- self; but the position was too cr al to adimit of any soijution by means of mere courage, Right down flight was evidently the only escape left. “1 do not*tur for my men,” said the Marquis to me, “they will all find room on the top of the moun- tains and within the walls of our fortress; but what Iam afraid of is the safety of this brilliant staf we have with us and of their beautiful horses. ‘They will ali go to grief climbing the mountains or break down for want of food in Pefia de la Plata.” THE “BRILLIANT STAFF”? the Marquis was so much preoccupied with re- quires just here some consideration on my part. A month or so since the French legitimists got up ® party of some twelve young noblemen, all of whom had already served in the French army, to form the body guard of Don Carlos. They were to form only the nucleus of a cavairy squadron, to be completed by and by on the spot, and to be placed under the orders of Count d’Alcantara, armea and equipped at an outlay of over fifty thousand francs, ‘The gentlemen could not remain long at Bayonne, as their brilliant uniforms and splendid Paria horses, however carefully concealed, would easily ‘betray their plans. Consequently ghey were as quickly as possible despatched, with arms and bag- gage, over the frontier, and awaited, like mysell, at Urdax, the chance of getting to the head- quarters of lio, where their squadron was to be formed, and remain till the arrival of Don Carlos, Their dark green hussar uniform, richly trimmed ‘with gold lace; their white Bedouin bournonses, their breasts covered with crosses and medals of mearly all countries, were all very pleasant to look at amid the wilderness of the Basque Mountains and the rags of Basque volunteers, and would have been, no Goubdt, very imposing at the headquarters of some well organized and victorious army. But in the circumstances of the case they had some- thing very incongruous about them, and suggested, don’t know why, the idea of Paris or Boulevard cavalry lost in the wild mountain: COUNT D’ALCANTARA, ‘the commanding officer, is a very able and brave man, well known for his military exploits. So are the Marquis de Canisy, late equerry to Napoleon, ‘and Baron de Barbier, a dragoon ofMcer, who fought in Mexico and China, But all these, as weil as their youngsters, Baron Amiot, Marquis de ®antes, Baron d’Herpent, Chevalier d’Arband and the rest. had very long faces when the flight wae Ait th ‘decide upon and when téy saw tnemsefves ruin- ing their chargers, unable to climb the mountains, obstructing the movements of the volunteers and increasing the general confusion. Besides these ~~ . FASHIONABLE WARRIORS ; we had on that occasion another celebrity with us— this time a Spanish, not a French one—and that was old Marquis Vulde Espinas, head of General Elio’s staf The Marquis led the cavalry charge at Eraul, got a bayonet wound in the arm, and had since been Laid up at a little country honse near Zugarra- murdy, that is to say, betweeen Urdax and the fort of Pefia de la Plata, a decree of the King, Charles VIL, appointing him Grand Marshal and Grand Cross seemed to have quite restored the health of the old gantleman and to have given him strength enough to join the ceremony of the consecration of the new fortress, after which he came to Urdax and was to wait, as we did, for an occasion to join the headquarters. He had consequently to fly, too with us, having for personal escort his two sops and his aide-de-camp. In that way, as far as celebrities were concerned, the capture of our de- tachment would have been quite a treat to the republican column, But it seems that its colonel, not being suMiciently well informed about the position we were in, did not attack us on the 3d and 4th, when he COULD RAVE CAUGHT ALL OF US or destroyed ue if he pleased, and so gave to us ample time fur fight. At daybreak on the 5th off we marched to Zugarramurdy, and two hours later were safe on the top of Pefla de la Plata, some four thousand feet above the sea and some two thousand feet above any spot that the republicans couid be expected to reach, What the road was like I am utterly unable to describe. Kids, I fancy, would be the only animals likely to find it comfortable. It was all an incoherent mass of stofes, big and little, rolling under the foot, and where it was not stone it was slippery mud. It was nowhere wider than ayard, and about the top of the height ceased to be a road or even a path. Every one climbed the best he could, and out of a couple of dozen horses of the staff fifteen got lame, the beautiful chargers of the Paris cav- alry being of course the first to break down, Over six hours did the march, last, and when we reached the fort we had only one pros- pect—that of being locked up in it without rations uotilsome other and better provided for band would come to our rescue. That band every one expected to be that of ‘THE CURE OF SANTA CRUZ, ‘ who was within a couple of hours’ march, at Echa- lar, on the opposite side of the mountain. AS @ matter of course neither the Marquis Valde Es- pinas nor the Marquis Las Hermazas, commanding the cartridgeless force, intimated what their plans or expectations were, and this rendered the posi- tion still less pleasant. Towards the evening only did we learn that the Curé had refused all help, and threatened to shoot young Vaide Espinas if his father sent hun down again to Echalar with either commands or propositions. Toexplain this an- swer a little digression from the narrative is re- quired, The now celebrated Curé began the present war as a small cavecilla (leader of a band), in the province of Guipazcoa, of which General Lissarraga was ap- pointed Carlist chief, The two men had some dis- agreements in February last, and, these growing constantly stronger, broke out into an open en- mity. Santa Cruz refused to obey Lissarraga’s or- ders, and Lissarraga condemned him in March last to be shot, But between condemning a man like the Curé and executing the sentence there appears to be @ greater distance in the present case than there is usually. Lissarraga could never catch Santa Cruz, and while he had scarcely done any- thing worth mentionining yet, Santa Cruz’s name is known, theugh unenviably, all over the world, while his popularity among the peasants of the Basque provinces is aimost incalculable. Lissarra- ga’s troops number scarcely 700 men, indifferently armed, and are a considerable expense to the cash box of Don Carlos, while Santa Cruz has over twelve hundred men, thoroughly well armed, without his having ever got, as he wrote lately to the Pretender, “either a gun, cartridge or a penny of money.” What he has got he got himself, with the aid, perhaps, of the Vicar of Tolosa, his intt- mate friend, recently caught on French soil and interned by the French authorities at Nantes. He» further, never fouglit without having a success, while Lissarraga has fought but little and never successfully. Naturally enough, the Curé has . A GOOD OPINION OF HIMSELF, feels his force, and, probably, remembering that the celebrated Cabrera was once but a miserable student of divinity expelled from the seminury for bad conduct, thinks himself perfectty justi- fied in imitating him as far as energy and vio- lence are concerned. His con/réres, on the other hand, having lost nearly three months in vain efforts to lay hand on the Curé, began to negotiate with him. Don Carlos wrote to him personaily, saying that this split in the party does it a great deal of harm, and that “the great cause’? should be defended with unity on the part of all those concerned. Santa Cruz “respectfully answered His Majesty—his master”—that he quite agreed with him, and that he would immediateiy obey any orders that may be sent to him, provided three conditions are fulfilled—first, his sentence of death revoked; second, Lissarraga removed; from the province of Guipuzcoa; third, full liberty of action granted to him in the command of his own band, None of these conditions have been yet com- plied with by Don Carlos, and the Curé is, of course, under the impression that his Carlist enemies would be as glad to shoot him as his republican enemies. Consequently he has broken up all rela- tions and communications with the counsellors and generals of Don Carlos, and, no doubt, took the applications for help coming now from Marquis de Valde Espinas fora mere mana@uvre interded to trap and catch him. He, therefore, refused to do anything, and when the Marquis sent his son with a second message to Achalar, Santa Cruz answered through one of his officers that the young Marquis had letters to at once return whence he came, else he would shoot him, as he knew very well what these demands for help meant inreality. He seems to have added also that if the Urdax detacb- ment had no cartridges it was the fault of Seflior Dorrenzoro, late Carlist Deputy in the Cortes and now Governor of the Fort Péna de la Plata, who had the management of the stores and who got, it seems, no end of money from Don Carlos’ casi box. To that gentleman the Curé sent word to say that, both for his spending Car- list money for banquets and for his promising to fire at Santa Cruz whenever he would pass within the range of his cannons, he would administer to him A HEAVY BASTINADO as soon as he caught him. With all these com- munications the young Marquis of Valde Espinas returned to us, and there was for a couple of hours @ regular war council held on the top of the height, with a view to decide what was to be done, when, all at once, A SPY ARRIVED with information that the enemy, instead of ad- vancing on Urdax, retreated back to San Estaban. We could, consequently, get down again from our height of 4,000 feet and get something to eat. Great was the general joy. “Marchar” was to be heard on all sides, and we had time, before it became quite dark, to reach Zugarramurdy again, where meat, wine, bread and forage could be found without particular dimMculty for the whoie of the force, The cause of this republican retreat trom Ezondo, when by marching on Urdax their success was 80 certain, was the very same famous Curé who re- fused to help us. Early in the morping on the previous day he attacked a fortified pésition of some sixty. carbineros near the bridge of Enderlaza, on the high roaa from Trun to Vera. The little cannoh he had soon smashed the palisades calculated to protect the républicans only from rife shots, and the carbine- Tos, after having lost several men, hoisted a white flag. The Carlists began then to descend from the heights down into the valley to the bridge, and when tney were close to it @ volley of musketry greeted them. SANTAQCRUZ became quite farious, threw himself forward with the whele of his force and slaughtered every one of the remaining carhinerna on the snot. One only attempted to escape by throwing Inmself in the Bidassoa and was drowned in the river. The re- Publicans say now the Curé executed prisoners who had hoisted a white flag, while the Curé says he simply killed treacherous enemies, who had tried to get him into an ambush, Whatever side may be right, for ws the wholesale butchery of these carbineros had a very favorable result. The Enderlaza bridge. being in, the rear of Colonel Tejada’s troops, the news of its being taken by Santa Cruz compelled the Colonel to retreat irom Elizondo. We were saved from partial starvation, atallevents, if not from certain capture, and the 500 men of the Marquis Las Hermazas have now & chance to get cartridges in a day or two and to be able to defend both themselves and the distinguished and brilliant Paris cavalry they pro- tect. For my own part, having not much to see with so small a band, and being bound to Eiio’s headquarters, I had once more to ciimb the height of Péna de Ja Plata, whence Iam writing this letter and whence I have to start early in the morning to the village occupied by Santa Cruz, the only way open. Unless he does with me what he promised todo witn the Marquis of Valde Espina’s son I shall probably be able to tell you what the monstrously famous Curé is like and what he is doing. FUNERAL OF HORACE F. CLARK, The Scene in the Church—Floral Offer- ings of Respect=The Pall Bearers—The Service and the Sermon—Interment in Woodlawn Cemetery. The funeral of the late Horace F. Clark took place yesterday afternoon from the Rev. Dr. Adams’ church, Madison square and Twenty-fourth street. According to previous invitation the pall bearers and other friends of the deceased had assembled at the family residence, No, 10 East 'Twenty-second street, at half-past three o’clock P.M., and thence in & procession of carriages, preceded by a hearse con- veying the remains, drove to the chureh, which they reached soon after four o’clock. At the time of arrival the galleries and side aisles of the church were filled in every pew with ladies and gentlemen who had come to attend the burial service, As the procession entered the church the organ began playing in a mournful, tender strain, and continued the plaintive voluntary until all the seats in the middie aisle, which had been reserved for the family and immediate friends, had been occupied. In this aisle also not a seat was left vacant, the occupants being some of the leading merchants and business men of the city. Delegations from the Western Union Telegraph Company and from the Directors of the New York Central and Hudson River Railroad Company were present. The remains having been placed on the bier in front of the desk, the widow of the deceased was escorted to the front pew on the right hand side of the middle aisle, in which also were some of the relatives, and in the pew immediately behind sat Commodore Vanderbilt, with other members of the family. ‘The pall bearers, were seated in the front pews on the left hand side of the aisle, bearing the usual emblems of mourning—white scarfs with lack bows. The pall bearers were Judge William H. Leonard, William M. Evarts, Charles O’Conor, Chester W. Chapin, Charles M. Rapallo, William Orton, John Q Jones, Richard Schell, Joseph B, Varnum, William Butler Duncan and E. B. Wesley. Dr. William J. Banor, the attending physician of deceased, and Dr. John F. Gray, consulting phy- sician, occupied seats with the pall bearers. On the table in front of the desk and all around the coftin there was a profusion of the customar: floral gifts, the last tokens of affection for the dead, Some beautiful designs were among these otfer- ings, in tube roses, lillies, white pinks, &c. Immediately in front of the coffin was a broken column, several fect high, on the base of which was the wo “Grandfather,” this being the final token of love from the grand- children of the deceased, A splendidly gotten up harp, presented by Augustus Schell, stood at one. side of the cofin, t the head of the cofin was a beautiful crown, and on the baptism font was alarge cross and anchor, the gift of Mrs, Bradhurst. A similar offering came from Com- modore Vanderbilt. A handsome column of im- mortelles, with white pluks and blue roses, bore the card of Judge and Mrs. Leonard. William Vanderbilt, Jr., sent @ cross, There must have been some fifty distinct floral pieces scattered around the beir, all exquisitely gotten up— wreaths, anchors and crosses, lyres, broken col- umns and other pretty Pes the diferent varieties of flowers being adm! ‘ably blended in most of them. The coffin was @ handsome rosewood casket, with solid stiver plate and handles, The plate bore the foliowing inscription :— noneee, OLIN EE NIONE NO ORNEDIENE LODO HOS) Qrerroree rene TORK F., CLARK, 3 Died June 19, 1873, Aged 68 years. PO RLAE NLT LEED NEO DOLE LORETO DOLO DOD DODODDIODIDS. All the visitors having been seated the Rev. Dr. Adams rose and coming to the desk read the well- known psatm, beginning, “Man that is born of woman,” &c., and having concluded it deliver¢ an eloquent discourse on the subject therein aliuded to. He did not dwell at any length on the private or patie virtues of the deceased, for, he said, most of those whom he was addressing knew Horace F, Clark better than he had known him. But it was impossible that the death of such a man, one who occupied so important a position in the business and commercial — world, should not leave a void among his frienas, The lesson he would draw trom the bier that was belore them was personal preparation for death. Dr Adams, in the course of bis remarks, referred to the manner in which the Saviour sym- pathized with the ailliction which death’brought and used the Saviour’s words to show how we should bear the burden of the sorrow, for death was but the vestibule to the glorious temple wherein ‘would be peace and glory. To those before him, who were leaders in the great business under. takings and upon whom devolved great responsi- bilities, he would especially say an exhorting word—such @ word as their dead friend would say could he now utter it—and it was this:— Look to higher objects than constant worldly honors, for they fade away ; watch, watch, and be always ready. After the sermon Dr. Adams gave 4 beautiful and most affecting prayer, cailing upon God to assauge the widow's griel, to protect her children and ndchildren and to bless them and all the family. ie also prayed for Commodore Vanderbilt, ‘the patriarch” of the house, and tor all the relatives and friends of the family and for those who had been engaged in business with the deceased. The choir then sung the 149th hymn, ‘Rock of Ages,"’ after which the benediction was given. No invitation having been extended for the taking of alast look at the face of the remains, the coffin was at once borne to the hearse, and the carriages having been soon filled the cortége proceeded to the Grand Central Depot, where a special train was in readiness to convey the mourners to Woodlawn Cemetery, the place of interment. The former private car of deceasea was heavily draped in mourning for the soos and was occupied by the immediate relatives of the family. FEMALE HEROISM AT THE DEY STREET EXPLOSION, To THE EDITOR OF THE HERALD:— In your report of the explosion in Dey street, which appeared in the HERALD of yesterday, I ob- served an omission to which I beg to attract your attention, The wounded persons were, as atated, taken to the Pare Hospital and there attended by the two hospital physicians, Fruhler and Hardy, who rendered every assistance ; but I think it only just that another name should be mentioned. At the time of the accident I was on the spot, and in the immediate excitement I observed a lady rush from the Dey Street House (a few yards distant), as if she feared that some near relative had been wounded by the accident. Disregarding everything which stood in her way, she forced a passage to the spot, and then and there seized the young man Leonard, the most fearfully injured of the five, and, by sheer personal effort, and almost unaided, she led him into the Dey Street House. Her clothes were almost in a blaze, and she certainly exposed her- self to great risk. Entering the house, | found that the young man was in a most precarious condition, but the lady who had rescued him was most assid- uous in her attentions. After putting out the flames she ied the usual remedies, unguents, &c., and administered morphine in doses, after- wards approved by the hospital physician, Dr. Joyce. For two whole hours and regardless of her ' own condition she tended the wounded man, and even after he had been removed she visited him in the hospital. This lady’s name is. Mrs. Dr. Miller, who has more than once been noticed tn your for similar nec efforts, and I think uld be rendered wherever due,’’ and skilful endeavors to aid the ‘wounded man ought not to be passed by in silence, Every one in the borhood will willingly en- dorse this statement, Seat Ce /EORGE ROBERTS, Dey STREer, June 22, 1873. PATAL ELEVATOR OASUALTY. Dominick Boshi Calupt, an Italian, fifty years of age, was killed on Saturday afternoon at the choc- olate manufactory of Henry Maillaird, 118 West Twenty-fitth street, by the falling of the elevator, ‘upon which he was at work. From what cause the elevator fell will be determined by an invee! tion to be held before Coroner Keenan at the late residence of deceased, No. 6 Clark street, where the remaina were rer ~ved after the occurrence. THE TOURIST ABROAD. Confessions of a Eu- ropean Courier. . “There Is Scarcely a Tailor or Shoemaker in the United States Who Has Not Been fo Europe.” THE MODERN TRAVELLER. Aristocrats Prefer Not to Travel, “But to Re- tire Moodily Into Their Feudal Castles.” SHARP HITS AT AMERICANS IN EUROPE, —_——__-+—__——_—. A Curious Melange of Malice, Truth and “Bosh.” —_—__ THE LIVES OF AMERICAN ARTISTS, FLORENCE, May 28, 1873, A small book, printed in Florence in the English | language, entitled “Memoirs of a Courier,” by Angelo Togua, has just fallen into my hands, and its perusai has so much amused me on account of its impudent style, its AUDACIOUS ASSERTIONS and peculiar views, that I think a short account of it will amuse, perhaps edify, the readers of the HERALD. Michael Angelo Togua is a kind of uni- versal genius, one of those tribe of human beings fast dying off in Europe, who in former years travelled over the entire Continent of Europe with wealthy families, but new that railroads and guide books have become such established facts find a pretty good although by no means romantic existence in the larger cities, where they make themselves generally useful to the traveller as valet de place for a remuneration of from eight to ten francs per diem, besides their legal pickings and stealings. Michael Angelo Togua is, in fact, one of Mark Twain's much abused Fergusons, who has taken to literature as a profession. And, judg- ing from the courier English displayed in the book, we fancy M. Angeio must have published his book without the aid of a translator. M. ANGELO never admits that he has been a courier, He com- mences his book with the words:—"in 1865 1 had finished .my travels. I was sull wandering with Many other fellow passengers on board the steam- ship San Giorgio, bound for Gibraltar,” &c, In fact», his company seems to have been much sought after as one of those geniuses to whom travellers are unconsciously attracted when they desire that valuable (?) info rmation which couriers ean im- part. In telling his story he makes his assertions m the co urteristic dogmatic fashion, and defying contradiction, He tells great truths, however, sometimes without knowing it. He is especially severe on the guide book manufacturers—the de- stroyers of his profession—and God knows that he has cause of complsint, He denounces the methods employed by many guide book makers of extorting money from the hotel keepers under various pretences (who, by the way, deserve but little commiseration). M. Angelo tells the story about the au thor of a guide book who, for the sake ofa puff, induced a hotel keeper of Naples to pay him 300 francs a year apa to furnish gratuitousiy board and lodging for himself and family of five persons for several months, until he finally quarrelled with the landiord, and a8 @ revenge, told the world in his book that said hotel was situated in a dangerous fever district, and so ruined the house. M. Augelo does, in fac hit many guide book makers very closely. He 18 apparently too unskilled to compete with his more pretentious competitors who have of late sprung up by the score in Florence and Rome, ter city some In the jat- ENGLISH WRITERS seem to have commenced the guide business on a regularly organized pian. Their first business is to compile @ book or to give lectures on certain prominent structures or ruins, and to conduct par- ties by the score at ive or ten francs per head vo the scene, where further explanations are made onthe spot. Against such competitors Michael Angelo Togua sinks into bis boots in disgust. ARISTOCRATIC AQD PLEBEIAN TRAVELLERS. M. Angelo belongs To the ola school of couriers, who still live on the memories and banknotes lett them by travelling English “milords,” German princes and Russian “‘boyards’ of yore. This is Bydstad he says about ancient and modern tour- ay a ¥ Now that commuications have become go much easier, the number of travellers has of course increase example, there is scarcely 4 tailor or a shoemaker i United States who has not been to Europe. A are not the only people to overrun other countries, The commercial men ot England and of Germany are nowadays almost constantly on the move, wiile for- merly they seldom used to leave the bounds of their na- tive towns. Every one—whether favored with a large or small fortune—is desirous of learning more than can be taught by maps or incorrect gnide books. Such wanderers as these are to be met with everywhere, not long gince travelling was done in poste! gences. Twenty years ago, wuen rich travellers decided upon making a tour through foreign countries, their cus tom—and it was a good and useful one—was to be accom panied by an honest and expert man, well versed in dit ferent languages and knowing the countries that were to be visited during (he intended tour. But n those happy times no small tradesmen were met with abroad, tor travelling was then far more difficult than at the present day and occupied valuable time which commercial peo- Be preterred to give to their business. Moreover, travel- ing was very costly, and it would haye been impossible or # cattle merchant or @ dealer in spirits w rival with LORDS, GERMAN PRINCES, RU@iIAN ROYARDS and all the rich folks that travell(d sumptuously round the world. Just the reverse haypens at the present tune. These last have disappeared, hey do not care to be obliged to travel in a first class railway carriage with their tailor or their shoemaker and would rather not sit down beside them at the fable d’hote. It iy thus that, owing to the progress caused by railways, and d avoiding disagreeabl ch men preter to re- tire moouily into their feudal castles. Travellers belonging to ariotocratic classes used to employ clever guides, whos? business it was (o render trayelling easy and agreeable. These yuides bore the name of couriers eis no lord, prince or duke who bas been round the world who hag ompanied reet and businesslike manner, th Berience of the countries through'which he passed and to his knowledge of the different tongues. Moreover, on an emergency, the | courier was capable of rendéring the most important services. I might almost say that to travel with a courier isa sign of distinction ; and I repeat that the time } has been when no english lord would leave his native island without being preceded by his courier, who often became his friend and confidant. MODERN TRAVELLERS, ity of Michael is something to be ad- mired. The breath of aristocratic breeding per- vades his every line. He reminds us very much of one of those sumptuousiy clad JAMESES AND JOHN THOMASES described by the immortal Leech, whom we feel a very heart desire to kick every’ time they come within smelling distance. Here is Michael's pic- ture of modern tourists:— It isin hotels that strange things sometimes happen, which prove how far behind we have lett the happy times when grands seigneurs used to sow gold win & entiful hand on their travels. ‘Ihe modern nabobs end very little, quarrel for # farthing with the hotel keeper, ordgr breakiast or dinner for two, and sit down, four in niimber, to eat it;go to table-dhote by turns, as a kind of honorable representation, while the others can be met with in third class taverns, when they do not refer to buy bread and victuals, which they afterwards hide in the drawers, to soil everything, and which aay mn the sly when they think that the host or the wait- re looking another way. They have also learned to buy cir own wine, and J have even been told of ladies who used to introduce it into the hotels with the greatest pre- oautions, in order that it should not be seen by the door- Keeper, whose sight, however, none of these mean and ungentiemanly doings escaped. And, as if kuch a splendid source of gain was too brilliant for the poor hotel keeper, they moreover bring forward a thousand pretensions, destroy the furniture, soil the walls and ofter a spectacie of indecent tism by the distorted ways in which they rec sit, They are never satisfied. Suppose that on another occasion these Kohemians of fashionable life receive an invitation from Mr. and Mrs. X., whom everybody knows and cordially detests in Rome, and who open their drawing rooms te AMERICAN SOCtETY, to whose members they offer libations of warm water and miniature lemonade. ‘This is the real field of batue, and the grossest absurdities are blarted out, and conversations take place more worthy of coster” gp te Gl and gentlewomen. Here idle gor Soap slander never fiag. Our foreign friends ridi- The di cule the country which harbors them, speak of art with the most profound ignorance, attack the Italian govern- Remacry avert oes Of sts and nuns and of «rar Holy Father the Pope, and draw the conclusion that itis le to live in Rome because everything that isnow done there is ill done ; they invoke the return of the Papal government, Which, accordin; to their ideas, was vastly superior to ‘the rulers. It ticularly curious to bons bent a 4 bg i! te elling, id hotet keepers. The to 08 bei " “alt thieves. or, to tay the HERALD, MONDAY, JUNE 23, 1873—TRIPLE SHEET. ~ Ifa young lady. suffers from headache it adords matter for » conversation of many hours’ dura- tion, for headlong charges against Our medical men, who, IT asses and in complete ig- norance of the way to cure rou are earnestly recommended not to trust yourself to a native doctor, tor mee ‘As these scarcely know how to cure even a Roman fever, something else. - If AMERICAN ARTISTS, especially those residing in Rome (Sir John Thomas himself seems to know the Eternal City by heart, and does not shrink to mention people by their initials), came in for a large share of abuse :— “Who are they? he asks in virtuous indignation. “What do they dot They live without fortune, profession of business; they had none when they first alighted om 1 have none at the present time, but thelt Hallan soil intrigues furnish them with the means of making a ly show of luxury and fluery. Their wives ride in rlages, give themselves grand airs, and pretend to be mters OF sculptor ir dress is egcentric in order to ch the eye of Fa and infuse them with a false idea ot their importance by the manner of their appear- ance. ‘Their nai re repeated day after day in the | Roman Times, as if in “advertisement ‘ai 80 much @ line, and the eccentric conduct of their wives Could sumce to give them the real value of which they ar so much in need. But let us enter into their stud which they retire during a great part of the day, in order that it should be believed that they are hard at work on modelling or painting. When a visitor arrives they thrust their head trom out their sanctuary in the most Fidiculous and pretentious manner, “Where are your chefs d'ceuvres ?” inquire the visitors with some interest. ‘They are ushered into the studio, in the centre of which there i$ a stool. ‘Ahis stool supports a lump of clay, with which to commence a model that is certain never to be finished, because they do not know how to do it, They are genérally obliged to recur to one of our old artists, of whom some are attached to such studios, or to some Acquaintance, secretly paid, of course, for, like bats, they only work in the ‘And when the chef @auore sees the light they take all the praise given to ® work which ig not theirs and call It AN. AMERICAN PRODUCTION. It is difficult to see what there is in it thatcan be called American, It ts Italian marble, begun apd worked in Rome by Italian artists after Italian models, and, with few exceptions, fipished by the skill ot an Thallah. By what light can Englishmen or Americans lay claim to such works as these'® By none, unless it be the name in- scribed on the statue, Cbme, gentlemen, it is hign time to ekg stop to the quackery which | have just described. and to speak the truth, however disagreeable it may sound to the ears of these pretenders to art. Stat made in Rome, in Italian marble and by Italian hands, are sent to America under an American name, Ought this to be a sufficient reason to exempt them—as they are exempted, according to American law— from paying importation duties? This is @ trap set for italian artists und a conspiracy unworthy of the government of the United States, who 1s a pa wo it. How can you conscientiously give the American art to that which has neither been di nor conceived in your country, and the materials of which are of foreign produce? The very marble from which it has been hewed cannot be called yours. ‘ihe sole fact of the presence on an American subject, wno waiks up and down before his del during two or thre i, 8, Havana ci 8, taking up now un the isch and ham x or dirtying his fit gers with clay in order to look artistical | wii visitors walk in, cannot be sufficient to give it an Ain can origin and the right to profit by exempuon from im- portation duties. The true reason is widely different And can be explained ina tew words, 3 THK AMERICAN WOULD-BR ARTISTS obtained the unjust privilege of which 1 complain by representing to their government that it was its duty to, protect national art abroad, and to open the territory of the United States to it, so as to facilitate the sale of their works by American artists residing on the Continent to theircountrymen, ‘This m e Lo a most damaging and unjust com works of art. Tmyself have had ample proot consequences. ‘There are many A Europe who would gladly purchase I but alter caiculating—and 4 capital hands at reckoning—they find that they have to pay, over and above the price of pure m Importation duty, and they abandon ui the doings of individuals who come to study try and to earn their living there, by making of our original works. 4 * PAINTERS, Then the painters are killed off. He says:— We find in the so-called artistic world in Rome the sublime ridicule wrought up to its hi pitch. R Rome because that poor city has bes for their headquarters by foreign Bohe and Catholic priests are lelt far in t r. “Rome was wanting in the barbarism of art, and it has found it. Artists, like others, have their lady ailies, Only listen to the sayings ol inter’s faithtul wi mh over the last picture? I what delicate to fine color! It is Raph bined.” * * * Poor canvas, condemned to suc nity! Poor, ill-used pallet! ‘Unhappy brushes! profanation! A croate of the worst description, scarcely worthy to sei to a tobacconist's shop! rtists pitch their tents which has always, even in the the title of Quech ot Fine Arts. They (speaking of American artists) dare to paint and model where Lombardi, Rossetth, Monteverde, Tito Malpior!, Masint, Ansigioni, ‘Reinh Wood, Cardwell, Rogers, Arbe Veld, Fortuny, Carta, Vest etti, Morelli, Gordig marble or oh canvas to their the studios of foreign artists. on @ work of some abili land of genius, in Ital. '¥ of servittide, bon: ai, Marianl, Simon- give shape, in i eptions. Visit Should you by chance fall you can freely proclaim it not to be the work of its would-be author, but of some poor Italian artist. who has been compelled by want and nun- ger to sell bis chivel or his brush to others, Idety such CRUMBRATED ARTISTS as Rogers, H, Cardwell, W. H. Roinnurt, W. Wood, &e.— the bestartists of whom England and America cun boast— to say Lam wrong, and [ feel convinced thad it Gibson— another justly renowned artist—was still alive, he wonld endorse iny statements, Our clergy, physicians and literary men come in for a share of abuse :— And who do you think these their intentions are toiled an reat talkers attack when | they fail to impose upon their fellow countrymen? Their victims are the cour- acct iers, who the; bargains whic clude. doll of taking @ percentage on all the can induce their employers to con- others of what they are in the babit ves. ‘When they know of the arrival of Rome they do their best to be pre- sen\ ey are always on his footsteps, they try to meet him at the banker's, in the Piazza di spagna and strut about his chambers as if they had come to draw mullions, not having ason in their pockets, for their only 1% to spy out other men’s actions, knowing that Mr: Grants wo kind # gentleman to turn them out of iis house. THE MEDICAL MAN runs from house to house and from hotel to hotel. the courier of the col actein the same m priests, gculptors, painters or literary men or women, the fussy biBybodies introduce themselves into all the hotels and intrude on all the newly arrived families, boasting of their own fame and renown, il to Know igners is cole He is upon another, “What is Mr. don’t you know tHe Is ac ol greatiearning.” “Really (i that these fine fellows trumpet about thelr articles, just like a London or Paris commercial traveller in his eilorts toxell ribands, flowers, pomatum and elixirs. I remem- ber having often been myself the means of unr: many plots laid by f this sort during my quent Visits to Koine. Ihave denounced their ass tw ladies, and unveiled their disinterested offers to ace company strangers through the galleries and be their ciceronés, “Beware of the clergyman’s and the doctor's was the advice I gave to the unlucky victi ym I ‘had the honor of knowing, tor they hav which are well known to te; they make a reat deal of the new arrival, aud offer to accompan her to the shops, the dresmaker’s or the modiste's trom whom afterwards nis- sion “of ten or twent cent by dint of atening to discredit their establishments and to accompany no more clients to their s When they go to @ eweller's it isonty to return there on the morrow and take an object of nearly equal value to that wh was sold the day belore to a rich speak of their husbands or friends without praising them to the skies and putting them ou a level with Canova or Raphael if they are sculptors or painters, THE DOCTOR'S WIFE relates, with tears in her eyes, the many miraculous cures accomplished by her husband, who has saved thousands of American lives; she descants upon the lists of the tokens of esteem and affection he has re- ceived from, the clients that he rescued from cer- tain death. “But you must not believe a word of it” continued, “Just fancy to what tort you he aublected if you chanced to tall into the hands e never doc nirig uc had no need of leaving their native country in order to earn theiv liv. ing.” In giving free expression {o these centiments I am convinced that t was speaking the truth. I kuow oue of THESK AMERICAN IIPPOCRATES who has sent more of his i ures into another world than Grant and Sherman their battle fields. Ido not consider this opinion of u o Le at ail exnyyer- ated. In America, where lite is considered a8 a material power, and where it is so easily disposed of when it can no longer render the services Which itis expected to tulfil, little account ts taken of medicine. Itis eusy to buy & diploma and to exercise under its protection the eusy profession of killing fellow brethren. Where has and does the foreign doctor study ¥ What hospitals has he frequented? What sctenutic principle does he apply to the cure of his patients? What does all that matter to him? Tt is buta question of luere, so much s0 indeed, that he will boldly assure you itis only im the British pharmactes—the only ones that he can pos- sibly recommend—that the elixir of lite can be tou Wine itself must bear the label ot the British Pharmacy And all this beeaw: money he is re- gardless of all the hi tradespeople of our country. Twill not be accused of having exaggerated this outline of exotic practitioners, fort ai perhaps far from haying told the whole truth. However, I teel as- sured of having stated the case exactly, and will be happy, should these lines serve to put too confiding per- sons oh their guard. It they would only listen to me, I could give a good piece of advice to travellers. Let them take an English doctor in England, a Russian in Russia, @ Spaniard in Spain, &c,, according to the country in which they are taken ill, and they will have no cause to complain of the change. JOUN THOMAS’ TRAVELS IN LONDON. John Thomas has, ot course, visitea Paris and Lon- don in the course of his travels, and he feels im- pelied to give us his impressions of men and things as he sawthem, He says London is very smoky. He then becomes galiant. “Woman,” he says, “reigns everywhere in England. For every ten citizens you meet in London you may be sure to see three times a8 many ladies. In England, by a curious coincidence, a woman wears & crown.’”? Then he turns to music. ‘‘Knglishmen do not pos- sess musical organization. As the illustrious Ros- sini once said, they never create, although they become easily every good performers. The reason for this lies in their language, or is, perhaps, as Byron says, that music is born in the ri of the sun, which rarely shines upon England.” Business life in London is too monotonous for the delicate tastes of John Thomas, Speaking of the routine of @ commercial house, he exclaims :—'Can this really be called living? I think nos It is a monotonous sort of existence to which I would by tar prefer the mournful tolling of the Misericordia bell in Florence, or listening to an opera of the Lohengrin species. The barristers,” he en “and this isa curious fact, are very hol although their charges are bh. But the leg@ profession is a noble one and deserves to be adequately retributed, English docters are very skiliul, but tueir charges are also excessively high. JUSTICE 18 DISPENSED IN ENGLAND with at wisdom and im lity. The magis- trates have a small defect. ey wear , and I really do not see the necessity of these antiquated articles of dress for the con- acientious dispensation of justice. The artists are are cheats, The tariff for public vehicles has also be- Ince the. establishment of the m poliseat ere are no more amusements; Princes a, Borghese, Piombino give no more i; ennut reigns Mtl mig he no longer scatters urtt very see Benin fact (eis cnouah to drive ove mad. ‘speak hoy fart or of medicine it ls oniy to blaine somebody oF very good le, but their flight is limited and they cannot'soar high.” And so on for over a hun- dred pages of equally deep criticism, a review of which must be reserved for another occasion. It may be in! to American artists at home to know that Al 1 sntends to cross the Atlantic “I had intended.” he save, “taking , 6 ‘Feaders with me on 4 fantastic trip to the othe countey of iverty, euergy and euteaprise, For f rty, ene: en’ would to prove that ge Thave brought under notice tne artful dot of seme Americans in Europe, I am also the fret t to acknowledge that the Americans who live over the sea do not re- semble, in the slightest particulars, the base ir. Sons | have described.” Fergason has been of late Years baited so much by travellers that he is have Ing BWeet revenge at last. THE COOLIE TRADE. A British Ship with Chinese Coolies in Port at Japan—Will the Mikado’s Officers Seize Hert—A Grand Chance for the Asiatic Philanthropists, {from the Yokohama Heraid, May 22. The arrival of the British steamer ‘yp nes, with cooliesfrom Macao, would seem to present an opportunity to the Japanese government to distin- guish itself once more in the cause of philanthropy and freedom. Of course, neither the standing of the firm to which the vessel is consigned nor the fact of the Cyphrenes being a British ship will for a moment be allowed to repress the nobie r; of the government in taking instant procee against everybody and everything concerned in the infamous trattic of Leger gs: men from @ country where their labor is not in demand to another where it 1s, Of course, with the prece- dent established in ‘the case of the notorious Maria Luz, no legal or international obstacles can or will be permitted to stand in the way of sho! sharp and decisive action. Mr. Watson need not wait before boarding the ship for any stray cooli to swim to the Iron Duke; nor need Mr. Nishi Shigenori, President of the ‘Japanese Judicial De- peerruane at Yokohama, delay operations until the ‘aptain shall have lodged any formal com} it of the conduct of his passengers, All this would be a mere waste of time, which is certainly to be depre- cated when human liberty and perhaps human life is at stake. It is only fair to assume that the Cyphrenes is a coolie ship with coolles from Macao; that their contracts, if they have baa must ex necessitate be incapable of being enforced; that they are ab initio bad and voidable through fraud; that the coolies the: ves must have been kidnapped; that they do t wish to prosecute their voyage further; that they are afMlicted with home sickness, having a longing de- sire toreturn to the bosom of their familes—to the plenty of their own land, with all its hallowed joys of gambling and opium smoking, from which they have been soruthlessly dragged or persuaded away, to gratily be accursed thirst for gold of their unconscionable masters. Mr. Oye Tak should send a telegram forthwith to Mr. Soyeshima, now at Peking, to inform the Chinese government that the Japanese authorities are willing to accept the same responsibility of action in thia case as in that of the Peruvian vessel. The fact of the Cyphrenes being a British v®ssel will much enhance, in the estimation of the Chinese government, the obligation of the Jnference, since it will show how terribly in earnest the Japanese government is in this great movement, for not only has it dared to affront Peru, but manilests the audacity to beard the British Lion too.’ Other countries may implicate themselves and sully their fair fame by participating to this unholy trafic, but not Japan, or she would degrade herseli to the level of Portugal or Peru, Itis true she may have en- forced labor within her own boundaries, but f that isnot known to the world no scandal results, and no delat would therefore ensue by putting an end to what is both economical and convenient to practice. As nowadays things require to be done ina sensational manner, and as it begins to be high ture for the news of some other startling novelty to be telegraphed to Europe and America, the au- thorities should seize the Cyphrenes, taking her, as it were, in flagrante delicto, confiscate the ship, im- prison the Captain, officers and crew, set iree the coolies and return them to China. If all this is done promptly, without regard to any coldly re- pressive considerations, as that such bigh-handed proceedings might be deemed by heartless Minis- ters and cold-blooded lawyers as being at once im- proper and unlawful, it will produce abroad a first class sensational effect. American jourhalists, especially, could revel in denouncing John Bull, with all his pretensions to pL being tripped up in his infamous career, and laid low by the superior humanity ofthe purer or more high-minded Japanese. Of course, the British Minister, Sir Harry Parkes, would consider it a part of his duty to fret and fume over the affair a little; but he has not a reputation to make or @ position to gain, the same as when a young man, when the affair of the lorcha Arrow was in hand years ago in China; and beyond remonstratingand writing long despatches home, keeping up the overworked young men at the Legation, much to their disgust, halfthe night tn copying them, the Minister is not to be dreaded. Besides, a healthy antagonism of this kind between the members of the Japanese government and Sir Hi Parkes would have a useful tendency in correcting an un- favorable impression abroad that they are too much under his tutelage, and this will be an exhi- bition of manly independence entirely consistent with the greatness of the country whose interests mihy administer. AY If iushould so be that the coolieson buard the Cyphrenes are not at present under any contract but are proceeding to America as passengers, ai either somebody's expense or their own, to enter into engagements there, that fact ought not to be allowed to influence the government in the least. Acting in its paternal capacity, it can only regard the coolies as mere cluldren, ignorant and unin- formed of the ways and wiles of the world, who are either deceived already or who are soon to be deceived and betrayed hereafter. With these responsibilities to these poor unsophisticated speci- mens ef humanity, the government will not surely permit itself to hesitate in taku instant action; for even though it should be slightly wrong, and would have to smart for it, on the supposition that its action would be morally right, that should jus- tify it in the good opinion of philanthropists; and though it should become a martyr to its generous impulses in putting an end, so far as its power ex- tends, toa disreputable traffic, it will henceforth take its rank alongside the great Powers of * land and America—England, who had to part wi its millions to compensate Jamaica planters, and America, who had to submit to the prolonged agony of a _ civil war to purge itself of the stain of enforced labor. Compared with these, an apology to Eng+ Jand ana compensation to the owners and charter. ers of the Cyphrenes are such mere bagatelles to a nation like Japan—burning to distinguish itself and caring neither for apologies nor expense— that these drawbacks cannot surely be allowed to interfere with action so well calculated to make a stir among foreign nations. As_ interna- tional law is always in process of mo‘ification or creation we may expect that in some revised edi- tion of Wheaton or other authority the cases of the Maria Luz and subsequently that of the Cy- phrenes wiil hereafter be quoted as precedents, teaching the great maritime Powers a lesson in practical philanthropy and international Jaw which they can never forget. Thus will Japan cover her- self with an imperishable renown, The “Emigrant” Trafic Exceedingly Ace tive in China. A mail despatch, of the latest date, from Hong Kong reports as follows:— The Fray Bentos, Peruvian ship, has been om- cially inspected at Macao and declared capable of taking 379 coolies. The barracoons are almost empty, and arrivals have been very scanty, seventy per cent of those examined refusing to emigrate, Trade, theretore, is very discouraging, and wili be more so if the rice harvest turns out a good one. The San Juan, Luiza, Canevaro, Emigrante, Manco- Capac, Rozalia, Providencia and Fray Bentos, all Peruvian ships, aggregating a total of 6,676 tons, are on the berth waiting. THE FIRE FIEND IN JAPAN. {From the Yokohama Mail, May 10.) The fires which occurred in Jeddo on Sunday and on Monday morning have given occasion to the quidnuncs to offer theories as to their origin, which they ascribe pretty generally to the action’ of the Satsuma party, known to be very ra repre- sentgd at present im the metropolis. ne only grounds upon which this supposition can reliably rest are the nearly simultaneous occurrence of so Many of these events and the ae of the Mikado’s castle. So far as we can learn, however, the fires at Hongo and Woyeno, and subsequently that at the hospital, are explainable by very in- telligibic causes, and there seems every reason attribute the fire in the castle to an accident. We regret to learn that a fire broke out in the grand stand and stabling at the race course at twelve o'clock last night, and that the entire ranj of buildings, including the auxiliary stan has been burnt to the ground. The only house tna\ escaped was that belonging to the momban. The committee is at present engaged in investigating the occurrence, It will, most probably, be dis- covered to be the work of an int and the momban states that he saw @ man running away on the outbreak of fire. It would seem that the painters had been employed during the day, but as they did not smoke, no icions attach in that quarter, The accommodation for visitors, and stabling for the horses being thus destroyed we fear that much inconvenience will be occasioned to the race committee, OOUNTERFEIT NATIONAL BANK OURRENCY, Counterfeit $10 bills on the Central National Bank of Rome, New York, were put in circulation in Williamsburg on Saturday night. A young man, - t Frank Boody, was arrested for f tone os eat a liquor store in Union avenue. obtained the change for the bill, it to a confederate and then ran away; ‘Was subsequently captured and locked up. Tar SUPPLY OF PAPER AND Its MANUFACTURE Dt Jaran.—The Yokohama Maw of May 10 ms the following paragraph :—We Ley a A attention of American paper man bas been directed to the Tesources ‘a to available materials by Japan. robability is that in first instance it mauition of horoughiy dried, and pressed pulp-= condition OT 0" on manurectare ber carried im merica. There . mani pn should not be established com| in the full of 4 joa een event a at ia atch of thane tp eats by Saas GORDO @ive an ovinion. to be 4 a