The New York Herald Newspaper, May 7, 1873, Page 13

NEW YUKK HERALD, WHDNESDAY, MAY 7, 1873—QUADRUPLE SHEET. THE GARLISTS, Marches and Manuvres with General Dorregarry. THE FIGHTING IN NAVARRE. Enthusiasm of the Peasantry in the Cause of Don Carlos. The Arms and Equipment of the Men in the Field. UANNON SMUGGLED IV COFFINS Dangers Which Beset and Hopes Which In- spire the Men in the Gap. THE «ROMANCE OF CAMP LIFE, —_—-—_—. General Ollo’s Photograph of Don Carlos. Beapquarrens oF GENERAL DONEGABRAY’S PENACERRADA, ALAVA, April 2, 1873, ‘We have marched in a large circle round Estella, ‘to the west of Pampeiona, across the frontier of ‘the provinces of Navarre and Alava, through a pass of the Sierra Codes to Pefiacerrada, a small ‘town, four and one-half leagues due south of ‘Vittoria, Our march was as 1ollows:—On March 25 we left Eulate and went to Abarzuza, four hours’ walk from Eulate and one league north of Estella; March 26, from Abarzuza to Dicas- ‘ilo, four leagues south of Estella; March 27, from Dicastillo to Nazar, six leagues east of Dicas- tlilo; March 26, from Nazar to Aguilar, where we Btayed March 29 and 30—the republican troops not Stirring from Murieta—two lcagues distant from Nazar; March 31, we left Aguilar, crossed the Sierra de Codes, and arrived at Peiiacerrada at four o'clock, where we have already passed two nights and = shall most probably pass a third. Three columns of troops gre following us, endeavoring to catch us In one of the triangles, of which they have made Bight within the last two months; but while we were at Aguilar General Dorregarry scnt to Santa Cruz de Campezu ordering quarters and rations for ‘his army, which, nowever, instead of marching to Santa Cruz, proceeded duc west, and has thus left the republicans, who fell into the trap, some ten leagues behind us, with the spurs of the Sterra de Codes between them and us. For the last three Mays it has been RAINING AND SNOWING INCESSANTLY, Bo that the roads are perfectly imparsable. You pee, thereiore, that the operations of the enemy's troops do not at all cause us much anxiety; the fact is, they cannot do anything. The nature of the country 1s such that they, being obliged to keep to the high roads, or, at any rate, to the bet- ter class of mountain roads, in consequence of their baggage, artillery, &c. They are forced to march round thoze groups of mountains which we tross diagonally, thus marching on an average Bhree hours to our one, Added to this they are In & perfectly hostile country, entirely sur- Younded by spies, who report every move- ment to us by means of estafettes in an incredibly Bhort space of time. For instance, while we were at Nazar, six leagues from Dicastillo, we knew they had left the latter piace within one hour and Rhree-quartcrs, Still we did not leave Nazar for three hours after receiving the news, as there were three bans following the rear and flanks of the enemy, who, taking the highroad via Murieta, were beinz continually harrassed by these three bands, each fifty men strong, who poured an in- vessant fre into their ranks from the crags and rocks on either side of them, 80 that it took them Just eighteen hours to accomplish what we had done in six—i.e., to get from Dicastillo to Nazar. Daring the day they lost fromthe fire of these bands ten men killed and forty-seven wounded, And now, owing to the ruse of General Doncgarray, Bhey are ten leagues to the northeast of us, with Bn excessively broken-up mountain region be- Sween us. The difficulty besetting the republican troops Will become more apparent when I mention what the number of forces in Navarre is: Under the im- mediate command of General Dorregarry and Brigadier Ollo, there are 8,600 men armed with Remington and other guns and about one thousand unarmed, or only armed with pikes. These form the gross of what is called the Navarrese army, and it can be imagined that with such a number of un- ‘armed men, who seriously embarrass our move- ments, the General does not wish to offer battle to the troops, who, on the other hand, do not wish £o fight either, unless with overpowering numbers. Besides the gross there are in various districts of Wavarre the following bands :— 1, Martinez, on the French frontier, with. ‘2, Mozo, in La Ulzama, with.. 3, Zunzarren, in Aoiz and Valcarios, wit! 4 Yrafeta, in La Barranca, with. 5. Yriarte, in Alsasua, with .... @ beet tees in Salinas d'Oro an Rio 20. Zugarti, 12: " 11. Samaniego, in Estella, with 12. Count Bariot, in Amescuas, it Genes iar e: e le 25. Yauiz, in Nagar, with.. ss 46, Losari in Poblacion, with. Lera, in Vaile de Orba, with 18. Villabona, in Tustapena, with 9, Yribarien, in El Bartan, with. Guerra, in Mantain de nas, with. Lieutenant Colonel Rada, (moving about), Be Brigadier José Ydoy, (moving about), with 464 TOtAl......eeseee eeeTescccceeeevens 2262 ‘These bands, with the exception of the two last, finder Rada and Yaoy, never leave the district hoy are located in, except to harass the enemy when they are following the gross of the army. Whey arc all well armed with Remington guns, which are exceedingly well manufactured in Spain, Bt Placencia, in Guipuzcoa, and pick off the ene- y's men, who only respond with their mountain Brtillery, which ia quite ineffectual, in consequence pf the Carlists hiding behind the crags and of the Wretched aim they take, the guns being served by men who do not understand them, nearly all the Brtillery officers having left the service. TOPULAR SENTIMENT, , The enthis'asm with which we are greeted every- Whero is most extraordinary, and the further we proceed into the interior the greater does It be- Pome. Men, women and cnildren crowd tho Btreets, shouting, “Viva Carlos Septimo!”’ the wo- men kiss the generals’ voots, and I shall never Porget the frantic contortions of one old hag of Bixty, who, flonrishing an enormons door key, kept on screaming, “Six children have — born to Don Carlos—six children! Alas, plas, that I am too old to have the sev- pothi’ whe fact is, the idea of liberty Je among these people, identical with that of the @onarchy, the monaro? being Don Carlos; whereas Phe onited Repuvlic is that of tyranny, and the eral Republic identical with socialism and the ternational, The reason is, that under @ jonarchical r’gime, they have always been allowed siderable latitude in directing the affairs of their various provinces. They have always had their Captain General, who commanded the con- tingent furnished by the respective provinces; they have their own local officers, and, in short, lead a kind of parochial existence, which the Re- public will not, or cannot, recognize. Hence their enthusiasm for the King who promises to recog- nize these cherished traditions is the same as en- thusiasm for freedom. Within ten days 20,000men could be enrolled in the provinces of Alava, Na- varre, Biscay, Logrofio and Gulpuzcoa, If arms were forthcoming. But arms are still at a pre- mium. They are transported at a great cost via tbe French frontier, where they are often seized and confiscated by the French government, which appears to entertain a peculiar spite against Don Carlos, as it has not yet recognized the Span- ish Republic, Even while I am writing the news has just arrived that the French authorities at Van- charinea have seized 25,000 eartridges, But alto- gether the state of affairs is satisfactory. Great discontent prevails among the republican troops, of whom two or three—sometimes more—join us every day. We have been expecting a squadron of 120 men from Logrofio, but it appears that the Madrid government have had wind of the affair and have recalled the Logrofio forces to Madrid, sending out others in their stead—Communist refugees, as they say here, though I will not guar- antee the assertion. It still continues to rain in torrents, so I do not know how long we shall remain here. Good news has just come from Catalonia, where the Carlists have taken the town of Berga, 500 prisoners and 1,200 rifles, 1 should proceed to Catalonia were it not that when sufficient arms arrive DON CARLOS WILL JOIN US and these provinces will become the chief seat of war. A letter arrived trom Don Carlos yesterday, dated from the Frénch frontier. He ts therefore not in Geneva, as the Times reported. He will, however, not enter Spain until the various forces can be united, or @ sufficiont number of fresh troops be enrolied to make his ultimate success merely a question of weeks, The total number of armed men in the five provinces I have enumerated above, is 9,780; and the revenue levied by the Carlists above 22,000f. a day. That the people gladly submit to this onerous tax is the best proof of their devotion to the Carlist cause. Carlist Kindness to the Enemy—Await. ing an Attack. HEADQUARTERS OF CARLIST ARMY IN NAVARRR, Zuniga, April 4, 1873, } At eight o'clock in the morning we left Pefiacer- rada, intending to proceed to Murieta, on the Rio Ega, about midway between Estella and Santa Cruz de Campera. The weather had considerably improved, and, after a short battle with the clouds, the eun gained the victory, to our very great de- light. During the first hour of our march we had to plunge through the fields, cither just ploughed up or covered about four inches high with the greenest corn I have ever scon. It was dazzlingly green; and it was with actual qualms ot conscience that I urged my steed—a valuable Rosinante— through it, crushing the tender blades at every step about a foot deep into the miry soil. At last, however, we entered a most romantic gorge, through which one of the afluents of the Rio Ega poured its foaming torrent. Here, a good road, firm and dry be- neath us, the bright sun above us, overfooding crag, rock and forest with a food of golden hght, our spirits rapidly rose: and all through the valley resounded peals of laughéer and merry songs; the beauty of the scene around us being still more en- hanced by the gaudy costumes and glittering arms of the men winding along the meandering road in a long column before and behind us. After quitting this gorge we entered upon the oak-covered slope of the mountain chain bordering the Campera on the south, and wound along this road until about eleven o'clock, when we descended into the town of Santa Cruz de Campera, just on the confines of Alava and Navarre. Here we had luncheon at the Cura’s house—and a very good luncheon it was. The republican troops had been here for three da; two days ago, and it might perhaps be thought that the inhabitants, 1,300. in number, had had enough of military visitors for some time to come, But their enthusiasm was ridiculously intense, Tne whole of the population seemed to be congregated about the entrance to the town, and the shouts with which we were grected were absolutely deafening. KINDNESS TO THE ENEMY, After having lunched we went—General Dorre- garry and his staff—to pay a visit to an officer of the Thirty-ninth regiment government troops, who. had been taken ill, and left here with three of his soldiers to nurse him. He was apparently very ill Indeed, and at first was somewhat flurried by the number of visitors entering bis room. Perhaps he thought that the Carlists were really the ogres they have been represented and were going to shoot him in his bed; but he was speedily reas- sured, and evidently touched by the courtesy shown him, And when one of the staff, by the General's orders, inquired if he wanted anything— money, clothes, provisions, &c.—he said no, and added that at least he was as much a Carlist asany of his visitors, but that he was poor, had a family and could not, therefore, afford the risk of enroll- ing himself under Don Carlos. No doubt such and similar considerations prevent many officers and men now serving in the republican ranks from joining us. Our visit over, we took leave of our host, the jolliest priest I have seen, and who partoek bravely of our repast, in spite of its being Lent, and continued our march along the highroad, which, in about an hour's time, led us again to the gorge of the Rio &ga, which we followed for about one hour, passing the ruins of an eld bridge—Puente de Argrigas—on our right, and a hermitage perched up on a bill, notin ruins, on our left, where the Carlists gained a great victory in 1837, when we were suddeniy startled out of our equanimity by the sound of three cannon shots, fired alarmingly near. First we came to a dead stop; allexcept one mule and the two men he was carrying, his muleship evidently being of a fearless disposition, and nowise heeding .the frantic attempts of his living burden to stop his career, till he suddenly threw up his heels and all three lay sprawling in the road, Then came the order right about, and off we marched back again for about 4 quarter of an hour and took up our position, headquarters and part of our forces, here in Zuniga, and two other portions in advance, guarding cither side of the gorge. Here we mean to waita day or two for the enemy to pay us a visit. No doubt the republican troops, who, it seems, have occupied Marieta with about twelve hundred men, fancied, ina fit of truly touching simplicity, that Dorregarry would debouch by a narrow gorge on the plain at Murieta, where they have drawn up their forces, with inviting artillery and 500 cavalry, all exoessively willing to make mincemeat of us, flavored very probably with your special corres- pondent. But we object to being made mincemeat of—especially the HERALD correspondent—and therefore we have taken up @ position which, if the troops really attack us, which I doubt, will enable sto make a first rate oUa podrida of them. It was ehecring to see the effect of the sound of the cannon upon the men, Not a symptom of alarm; none of that involuntary tremor which one gene- rally observes in the ranks of men unaccustomed to facing artiliery, On the contrary, oMcers and mon were evidently disappointed at not attacking; and more 60 than any appeared an enormous specimen of Navarrese humanity, who, when the Alcalde of his village had ordered his+father to be flogged because hp cried out “Viva Don Carlos," when the “Voluntarias por Dios, Patria y Rey,” were passing by, quietly paid tne said Alcalde a nocturnal visit and strangled him in bed, Yet this bioodthirsty villain is as gentle and kind-hearted & man as one would wish to see; he always gets off his herse when the roads are too heavy, and trudges through the mod and slush in his sandals in preference to making his beast suffer—an ex- ample { am afraid but few or none of us superior beings follow. It would have been foolish to attack the enemy in the very strong position they had taken; a de- feat, or at any rate @ drawn battle, would have been the result without any gain whatever; os pecially as there are now 6,000 men, divided into five columns, in pursuit of os, I do not think, however, that we shail be able to pass the next @aht days without fiahting. aniess, indeed, we succeed in crossing the Sierra de Aralar into Gul- puzcoa and then into Biscay, which I know ta the wish of the General. As I said before, it is the want of arms, or the funds to buy them rather, that pre- vents the Carlists from taking the offensive in force. PIETY OF THE CARLISTS. Iwas much amused to-day—and touched, too— by the piety and charity bestowed by the men on the Virgin of a small chapel close by the bridge of Argrigas, The chapel was closed by a mas- sive iron gate, through the vars of which the image of the Virgin was dimly visible, gazing down with a smile of supreme satisiaction at the five-centime pieces which cov- ered the floor of the chapel, and were being thrown in by the men both on journey to and from the point whence we were obliged to retire. Their love for their religion must be great when they thus willingly sacrifice a sixth part of their dally pay. Still it must not ve imagined that they are priest-ridden. They are not abjectly servile to the priests, but respect them with a sturdy independ” ence contrasting very favorably with what I have seen in other countries. I may, perhaps, be accused of regarding things too much couleur de rose, but although as stanch a Protestant, I hope, as any one, still I like to seo religion a firm conviction in the minds of its professors, be they Catholics or Turks, and Ihave always found such men better than those elastic- conscienced people who are wiser than all the four facultics put together. Iam therefore ail the more sorry to find that the war is gradually assuming & religious character. ‘The Carlists are upheld as the defenders of the faith, the republicans as its (e- atroyers, Such is, however, contrary to the will of Don Cartos, who, from what I hear, is a very tol- erant man; 80 much 80, in fact, that he 1s totally Opposed to the conduct of the Curé Santa Cruz, who really is what the Carlists generally have been supposed to be—a brigand or an unscrupulously ambitious personage. He utterly re‘uses to obey orders. Having left tne Church, he is now simply the weader of a band, and, as such, ought to respect the commands given to bim. However, he has set them at naught, and has shot, without any valid reason, two more peasants. In conse- quence of this behavior General Dorregarry, as Commander-in-Chief in these provinces, has te-day received orders to shoot him, and 1 believe has already entrusted the execution of this severe but necessary sentence to the proper persons. Uniess, therefore, the Guré saves himself by night I judge he will be dead before this letter reaches its destination, We have just been much amused by an incident which shows how much the men are devoted to their chiefs, At supper the General said he wished he could have a brace of partridges. He was over- heard by one of the servants, wno, alter the Gen- eral had retired for the night and we were sipping our coffee, came and asked for permission to go to Pampeluna to fetch a dozen brace. When I say that Pampeluna is twelve leagues distant in a straight line, and that the man is over sixty years of age, it canbe imagined that his devotion is suificientiy real. The news has just arrived (11 P. M.) that the column has left Murieta and is advancing. The General has given orders to blow up the bridge over the Ega, and I mean to witness the opera- tion, Itis a wild night and blowing great guns, I don’t believe, for my part, that the troops intend stirring to-night. However, we shall see. Reports of Republican Manceuvres in the Field—An Amusing Luncheon. HEADQUARTERS OF CARLIST ARMY IN NAVARRE, ‘April 6, 1873. Yesterday afternoon we received the news that the enemy was advancing, one column having left Murieta in the morning, one approaching from Sal- vatiena, one from Pamreluna, and two under Gen- eral Nouvillas, being in Estella, and of whose move- ments we have not as yet any quite reliable ac- counts. There are thus five columns pursuing us; and, under the circumstances, it was wise to leave Zuniga, which lies at the base of a chain of mountains, and to proceed to the other side of the same chain, which forms on this side—to the north—about one-third of the circumference of a basin, to which there are three entrances, with their three villages. During the day we had been joined by Rada—nicknamed Radica, to distinguish him from other chiefs of the same name—with 400 men, and he, General Dorre- garry and Brigadier Olla each occupied one village and the pass leading to it. By the time we had taken up our positions the enemy arrived at Zu- niga, ,The next morning, fancying they might attack us, we moved up the stecp mountain and halted on the plateau at the top, where cartridges were served and the men formed ready for action. The republicans, however, as usual, refused to ac- cept our invitation; 80, fires were lighted—a very welcome proceeding in the biting wind, sprayed with sleet—and preparations made for luncheon, the said preparations being of a very primitive and amusing nature. Divers kids and fowl were im- molated, after death, on long, sharply pointed sticks and held over the glowing embers by one man, a second basting them. I doubt much whether any of our civilized cooks would have gurvived the sight of this latter operation; a piece of fat bacon, transfixcd on a stick, was wrapped up in paper—which I had the honor of furnishing from an old number of La Epoca—and held in the flames till it took fire and began to drip, and thus anointed the kid beneath, whose brains were cooking in its own skull close by. These dainty viands, served up with Hunger & Co.'s best sauce and plentifully seasoned with ashes, very 600n disappeared, and were followed by copious draughts of wine from the goatskin pouches men and oMcers carry at their saddie-- bows. These pouches are furnished with a very small aperture, through which the epicure, throw- ing his head backwards and thrusting his under- Jaw forward, squirts the red juice into his mouth, about a feot distant. The first time I tried the experiment I shot the stream into my eye; the next time all down the front of my shirt, through my beard. After that I gave it up, and madea cup out of an envelope. After lunch we resumed our march, having waited three hours for the enemy, arriving at five o’clock at Zudaire, close to Eulate, where I joined the troops of General Dorregarry exactly fourteen days ago. During the day we have been joined vy three superior officers—two captains and one licu- tenant—and two sergeants irom the republican army, who asked fora week’s absence in Madrid and came over to Don Carlos. Seventy-five Rem- ington rifies were also received to-day and 800 are expected to-morrow. They have passed the fron- tier and are therefore sure to arrive, The accession of Lieutenant Colonel Rada and Count Barrot with 400 well-armed men has pleased both officers and men very much, as Rada is an ex- ceedingly brave and daring man, and it is fancied tnat he will be able to influence the councils of war in an opposite sense to the advice of Stat Major Argonz, who is in favor of long marches and countermarches to weary the enemy without coming to anengagement. He (Argonz) is a regu- lar perambulating map, and knows every path and road in the province by heart. But he forgets that in wearying the enemy he is also wearying his own men, in opposition to’the wishes of Ulla, who has always advocated attacking the one column that has until recently alone been following us, in spite of the artillery, saying that unless they are at- tacked the republicans will come against us with seven or eight columns -instcad of one, which has really happened. Five columns—8,000 men—are now triangulating the country, and of course cause us more work than before. They have also destreyed the bridges over the various rivers be- tween Pampelunaand the Ebro, only leaving one or two intact, which they have fortified and furnished with heavy guns. If the troops only act with the least energy they cannot help forcing us either to an encounter orto submit to a blockade in some one of the mountain hamlets, which would bo much worse for us than the loss of 600 men. An Attack Expected—C; ion for the Carliste—The Fighting Priest. ABARZUZA, April 7, 1873. We left Zudaire at atout two o'clock this after- noon, in the midst of a violent anow storm, and arrived at Abarzuza at six o'clock benumbed with. cold, Wo had waited so long at Zudaire—part of the forces under Rada and Major Calderon baving occupied San Martin—in the hopes that the enemy, who had occupied Contrasta and Harraona, about two and a half hours’ march from Zudaire, might be induced to attack us, althongh after our ex- perience the day before, on leaving Zuniga, there wus not much chance of their doing so. Nor did they; instead of following us by the direct road they have made a circuit which will take them two and @ half days’ march to arrive at Abarzuza—a march we accomplished, in horrible weather, half- blinded by the driving snow, in not more than four “hours! And this kind of thing Iexpect will continue until the arms and artillery arrive which General Dorregarry has been waiting for so long. This afternoon the General received letters informing him that thirteen cannon had been bought (moun- tain picces), with the necessary harness and am- munition, and that they would arrive in Spain in four or five days, It may, perhaps, interest some ofyour readers to know that these pieces cost only 900 francs each ($180), are quite new, and manufactured by a German firm, The ordinary grenades cost seventy-five cents each, shrapnel $140 cach. The toral sum for these pleces of artillery, with the various appurtenances, amounts to $3,875, while & premium of $3,000 haa been de- manded for their insurance. As soon as those arms arrive in Spain 1 expect we shall march in a large circle southward, west and northeast to the French frontier, and then cross over into Guipuzcoa and Biscay. In the meautime, having satisfied myself that Navarre is entirely Carlist, and that an en- gagement depends only on General Dorregarry, 1 Propose to make an excursion into Guipuzcoa and see how things are going on there, rejoining head- quarters when [see that there is some chance of a fight. At present, a3 I have shown, there is none; the republican troops, who, by the way, as their term of servicé is over, are receiving two francs a day, contenting themselves with levying contribu- tions, forbidding the church bells to ring, destroy- ing bridges over three or four feet ot water, leaving the millers to grind only a certain portion of corn, and forcing the inhabitants of villages near the various larger towns to drive their cattle within the walls of said town; all which measures are as puerile as forbidding the aun to shine. THE FIGHTING PRIEST, SANTA CRUZ. In my last letter I spoke of orders having been issued by command of the King, Don Carles (every one calls him King already) to shoot the Curé Santa Cruz, General Lizarraga has been entrusted with the execution of this order; buta slight diMeuity has arisen in itsiulfiment. Santa Cruz refuses to come and be shot. He prefers remaining in the mountains, where his name 18 as dreaded, and with reason, as that of Schinderhannes or any other re- doubted robber of the Middle Ages, and leading a life of brigandage In the name of patriotism. Iam ofraid that, aa we have nobler game to pursue, in the shape of republican troops, Santa Cruz willsttll perambulats the mountains of Guipuzcoa; or, if the worst comes to pass, emigrate to some country where he can find an asylum—for instance, to Eng: land, where he can give lectures in various town halls, @ ?a Father Gavazzi, and, espectally if he ab- jure the Roman Catholic faith, make a mint of money to console him for his involuntary exile, DOMESTIC ARRANGEMENTS IN NAVARRE, While at Santa Cruz de Campera, in Alava, the other day, Iamused myself with taking an inventory of the house, which readers of the HERALD may like to hear. The arrangements In this house were the same as obtain all over the country, and one description serves for all. The houses themsslves are all built of stone, and very magsive; tno win: dows are smail, one half rejoicing in two panes of | glass, the other half being left open, either for ven- tilation or to saye the proprietor the trouble of opening it when he wants to look out. Over the entrance, generally a high-arched gate, through which a man can ride on horseback, there ts nearly always a heavily sculptured coat of arms, for, although the noble descendant of these ancient families is nothing but a peasant, he is as proud of his ancestors as a king, or even prouder still, as the following anecdote proves. The crest of one ot these peasant families, a daughter of whom mar- ried some king or other, bears the device, “Reyes descienden de nos; pero nos de reyes, no!” “Kings have descended from us; but not we from kings!” I think it would be dificult to top this example of ancestral pride. Even the knives and forks of many of these peasants—when, indeed, they in- dulge in the luxury of table knives, aspoon and fork alone generally suMcing to divide thesemi-puipy viands of the Navarrese cuisine—irequently bear their arms or crests. On entering the house, the kitchen and stables—the latter very large—are found to occupy the whole basement. Going up stairs or on the top landing there is generally a tall, solemn-looking clock; the pendulum of which is as large or larger than the dial, and swings to and fro with monotonous gravity. The largest room in the house, or drawing room, rejoices either in a bare boarded or tiled floor and a ceil- ing of painted rafters, the intervening spaces being arched in common white plaster, the whole form- ing a voluted ceiling, most probably an adaptation of the Moorish cupola. The furniture of the room consits of one table anda whole army of straight- backed chairs, ranged tn martial array along tho walls, which are embellished with pictures hung up close to the ceiling, and mostly representing the various saints which the proprietor most ven- erates. One end of the room is generally occupied by @ glass case with a figure of the Virgin, decked out in all the glories of gold and silver tinsel. Or, if this devotional ornament is absent, its place is taken by an elaborate piece of embroidery, repre- senting the birth of Christ or some ana!ogous sub- ject, and framed and hung up in some conspicuous position. Or else a representation of some famous relic occupies the place of honor, such as a plece of cardboard cut out in the shape of the sole of a foot, said to be the exact measure of the foot of the Vir- gin Mary, and bearing the following inscription :— “The exact measure of the foot of the Most Blessed Virgin, Mother of God, copied from one of her shoes, whicn is preserved and held in great vener- ation ina Spanish monastery. Popo John XXII. accords an indulgence of 300 years to whomsoever kisses this holy relic three times and recites three Ave Marias before it, which indulgence was con- firmed by Pope Clement VIII. in the year 1603, This indulgence, which can be repeated any number of times, may be applied for the benefit of the blessed souls in purgatory, and for the greater glory of the Queen of Heaven. The copies of this blessed shoe are invested with the same privi- leges. Maria Mater Gracte, ora pro nodis, The grace of God rest forever on our souls. Amen, Jesus,” One very characteristic piece of Spanish furniture ia the brassero, a round, brazen pan, resting in the middie of a round, wooden pedestal, about three inches from the ground, the brassero itself being filled with live coals (charcoal), which warm the feet admirably, as well as producing a ‘amous head- ache, As for the bedrooms, of which there are al- ways 4 considerable number, the beds are com- fortable and commodious; but, beyond the bed, there 13 seldom anything except an enormous wooden chest, often very beautifully carved, a chair and @ small footrug. Of the vermin, light and heavy brigades, of which travellers to Spain ¢alk so much about, [have neither seen nor felt anything in the Vascongade provinces, I suppose the skin of the Navarrese is so tanned and har- denea by exposure to the weather that nothing short of a scorpion’s ating can pierce it, The kitchen of a Navarrese house is, however, the queerest place dignified with the name of a kitchen Thave yet seen in a civilized country. One quarter ig occupied by the hearth, upon fwhich big logs of wood are always glowing, or smouldering, ready to be blown into flame ## soon as it is wanted, the smoke escaping through an cnormous chimney in the shape of an inverted funnel. Big earthenware pots, filled with somo abominable mess or other, are always simmering before the fire and kept tn their places by semt-circles of tron placed on the hearth wherever they are wanted, and into which the bottom ofeach pot fits, For the higher branch of the culinary art—roasting—the time-nonored apit ts in use, and turned by a turn-splt, not by one of the small boys, or bandy-legged dogs formerly kept for the purpose, but by a burly Navarrese peasant; whose massive proportions ludtorously contrast with the small-limbed kid which here takes the place of mutton, The furniture of the kitchen Is restricted to a bench and a table swing- ing on & hinge fixed in the wall and let down or raisod, as the case may be. Such is tho general menage of the Navarrese farmer aud peassnt— deguettous non est Maputandume A March Over the Mountains—Repw can Outraxes. HEADQUARTERS OF NORTUERN ARxyY, ‘ABSTA, ALAVA, April 10, 1873, This morning we left Abarzuza at eleven o'clock and continued our march over the moun- tains to Muneta, a village on the right bank of the Rio Urrederra, where we arrived at two o'clock, after the men had been formed and furnished with cartridgea, as we knew that the column under Salcedo was advancing tqwards us. We had just finished our luncheon when a “confidante” came to inform us that Salcedo was within half an hour's march of us. We at once crossed the Rio Urre- derra and took up our position betwoon Muneta and Heraul, on both sides of a steep gorge, the en- trance to which was occupied by 400 men, under Licutenant Colonel Rada and Major Calderon, While the gross was posted on the summit on each side of the gorge. By the time we had taken up our positions the Vanguard of the republican column arrived with two picces of artiliory at Muneta, and at once opened fire, at about o distance of one thousand metres, on the battalion under Rada. Altogether about a dozen shots were fired, but the shells all burst in the air, more than two hundred metres distant from the men, who replied only with laughter and cries of ‘Viva Carlos Septimo.” Alter having made tha demonstration—very much to their own satisfaction, no doubt—the republican troops retired to Muneta, while we continuod our march southeast through the Peflas de San Fapato, as the romantic gorge of the Rio Urre- derra is here named, and, passing within a mile of Estella, and haifa mile distant from the celumn of republican troops undcr Costa, tollowed the Rio Ega tothe village of Ancin, where we arrived at eleven P. M., completely deceiving the enemy, who fancied that we were returning to Abarzuza, A REPUBLICAN OUTRAGR. We passed the night at Ancin, and continued our march next day, April 9, to Santa Cruz de Campera, passing by the bridge of Arquijas, of which I spoke the other day as having been ordered to be de- Stroyed, which order, fortunately, had been coun- termanded, and dining in Santa Cruz, at the house of the Curé, our old acquaintance, who, in the de- light of his soul at seeing us again, brought out divers bottles of an excellent wine he had kept in his cellar for eighteen years, Here we were made acquainted with a very disgraceful act perpetrated by the republican woops at Zuniga. Two of our mon, suffering from fever, had been left in Zuniga, but when the republican column arrived were dragged from their beds, severely treated and knocked about, thelr money and clothes taken away, and le(t in such @ state that it is a wonder they survived the treatment they received. The manner in which we treated the officer who had been left behind in Santa Cruz under similar circumstances the other day, when we visited him and offered to do anything for him, and gave each of his men, three in all, flve francs each, makes tiis unteeling conduct of the troops Appear all the more atrocious, and I am afraid that such acts will prevent the Carlists from behaving so lenientiy to those men of the troops who fall into their hands as they have hitherto done, The Mayor of Zuniga was also severely treated when ho attempted to interpose in favor of tho two Car- lista, I must confess that, althougi I came to Spain strongly prejudiced against the Carlists, I cannot help seeing that the whole character of the people a3 far as I have seen is totally opposed to republl- canism, and the fact does not surprise wp when 1 see how the repubiican troops behave, They are simple brutes, recruited from the very dregs of the peopie, and their officers are so badgered by the govenment at Madrid that they are driven to measures that would disgrace an army Oghting in {ts own country and among its own people, For instance, for every shot fired within acertain dis- tance from each village they levy @ fine of 500 franca; and wile forbidding all the conservative Journals to print any news concerning the Carlists, except what is contained in the republican papers they permit such disgracefui language as the fol- lowing, taken from Los Descamisados—The Shirt- less—from what this pink of papers calis ‘Our Pro- gramme" :—“Our ambition is an absolute and com- plete social levelling. Anarchy is our only formula, Community in all things, even irom supreme power to the community of women." The black flag is embroidered with the words :— “War against the family! War-against property! War against God!” Such are the sentiments professed or permitted by the party which flatters its adherents with the idea that it is establisning a republic based on the same principles as that of the United States or Switzerland! I could fill columns of the HeRraLp with stories of the atrocities committed by the re- publican teoops, but I refuse to give credence to any reports and only narrate what [ can guar- antee and have personally observed. Seeing the wounds of the two soldiers and the Mayor of Zuniga and hearing their story, I have no doubt whatever of the truth of their tale, besides which the frantic shouts of all the peoplo of Santa Cruz, when we entered for the second time, abundantly proved their aver- sion to the troops who had left them only a day before. We also received in Santa Cruz no less than 250 cartridges, stolen from the troops while quartered in the town by the women and children, The bells were also immediately set ringing, although this demonstration costa five hundred to one thousand francs each time the in- habitants thus disregard the injunction of Gen- eral Nouvilas. Leaving Santa Cruz after luncheon, we followed the high road, which we have done all the way from within a mile of Estella, We arrived at Macsta, half frozen and covered with snow, at half-past five. Here we have remained for the night, and shall probably leave this afternoon (April 10) for the province of Guipuzcoa, where we shall join Lessagara, re-enter Navarre, and take possession of some cannon that bave already passed the frontier, A Visit to Vittoria—Hospitality of the People—Perils of Railway Travelling. Virrorta, Alava, April 11, 1873, The troops not having made any movement yes- terday, we quietly remained in Maesta till this morning, when, having heard that Salado and Nou- villas were approaching, General Dorregarry gave orders to march, while I, mounted on my faithful Rosinante, started off for Vittoria, en route tor Bayonne, For the first time since my arrival here the sun shone the whole day. Maesta is four leagues and a half from Vittoria, and these four leagues I accomplished in two and a half hours. On my way [ passed several Carlist outposts, the last one situated about three-quarters of an hour's walk from Vittoria. Hore I was stopped and asked to pay four cuartos toll; but as soon as I produced my “satvoconducto,” signed by Dorregarry, I was at once allowed to pass, Half an hour afterwards 1 rode into Vittoria. ‘The streets were teeming with sefioras, sefioritas and sefiors, all intent upon viewing the proces. sion which, being Good Friday, wason the point of leaving the church. Through these crowds I rode in triumph, and, mounted on my rather rag- ged and mud-bospattered stecd, my clothes bear- ing evident traces of the treatment they had been subjected to during the last fortnight, { have no doubt but that my appearance was sufficiently strange amidst th's festive throng. I con- tinued my way, however, very unconcern- edly, looking very much as if I knew exactly where I was going to, while in real. ity | was leaving the choice of an hotel to the good senso of my steed, until he made a dead stop at No. 4 Calle de la Constitucion, at the Fonda de Manoelo Erbarri. Having somewhat refreshed my- self and donned # costume more suitable to the day, I sallied forth to call upon the Carlist agent to whom I was accredited, and who, receiving me most cordially, led me to @ café frequented by Carlists only, WINE GALORE, BUT NO MILK IN NAVARRE, Alere I had to recount all mg adventures to a most admiring audience, who were put into the very best humor by my inimitable pronounciation of the noble Castilian language, while 1 was indulging, revelling, absolutely luxuriating in the delignts of endless tumblers of café au lait, for of milk, which to me is wine, beer and spirits combined, I had not seen 8 thimbleful for the last month, I had made frantic attempts io Macsta to get a giass of cow's, or 13 servant sald there was nota drop to be had. Om hearing this the landiord said that there was @ goat ina certain house that had given birth tow kid the day before, and that, no doubt, I could wet some there, Of set Valentin to search tor tha precious liquid, but when he got there the goas was—dead! Navarre overfows with wine and honey, but not with milk. When, for instance, a mother is not able to nurse her infant the inno- cent babe ishanded round irom one to anotior of the more fortunate matrons, and I. suppose that is the reason why the Navarrese children are ten times more Carlist than in the other provinces, A RELIGIOUS PROCESSION. While thus talking the procession issued from the church headed by divers Vittorian grandees bearing immense flags; then followed a large glass sarcophagus aumptuously decorated with a life-size figure of the Saviour, the features being relieved by a black cushion and with an expres- sion of the most ghastly reality. A band of singers dressed in black preceeded this figure, chanting in low, melancholy tones; while it was followed by a company of 100 gardes mobile, who, in turn, pre- ceded an image of the Mater Dolorosa, also in life size, but who very nearly came to irreparable grief when one of the bearers stumbled, Then came the band of the gardes mobile playing Roasini'’s “Stabat Mater,” another company of 200 closing the oMcial part of the procession. VITTORIAN HOSPITALITY. When the cortége nad defiled past our window I began to sneezo in & most violent manner, and found tomy great disgrace that I had lost my last clean pocket handkerchief. One of the waitresses, however, volunteered to bring me some, and giv- ing her agold piece of five d'oros I told her to bring me six. She brought them, famous ones, al- ready hemmed, and at the same time brought back my sovereign tutact, saying they had been paid for! This custom obtains very much here. When a stranger enters a cafe or restaurant he frequently finds his bill already paid—a custom that somewhat jars upon one’s feclings, especially ifweimagine a Spaniard expecting anything of the kind at Delmonico's or at Gatti's in London. T suppose it is aremnant of the old Moorigh qustom: of affording hospitality to all strangers, A GOVERNMENT TRIOMPH. The next morning I left Vittoria—where, by the Way, there were not more than cight hundred republican soldicrs, so that Dorregarry might oasily take the town if ho caros to do s0—en route for Zamarraga, up to which place the trains stim ran, We procecdcd at avery slow pace as far as Allegria, where we found the rails torn up and the signal box in flames. The soldiers accompanying the train, 140 im number, descended precipt- tately; aparty of ladies in the next compartment to us barricaded the windows with portmantoaus, rugs and cushions, and then lay down at the bot- tom of the carriage and shricked, while the soldiers and their officers, violently gesticulating, pointed out a few groups of men in tho village whe they swore were Carlists, but who appeared to mo very innocent peasanta, Suddenly an officer pointed toaclump of bushes about two hundred yards off, and gave some command to his men, forty or fifty of whom, cocking thelr guns, made a sudden rush, advanced bravely towards the omin- ous clump, surrounded tt, and took—three women prisoncrs, They then commenced an orderly re- treat back to their starting point, and when the women said that there were no Carlista in the vil- lage, righteously and justly indignant, knocked them about and kicked them as women ought to be treated. The Atealde, to fetch whom the vali- ant troops had sent a small boy, bore ont their testimony, whoreupon, after an enormous vow ‘on the part of the soldiers, who wanted to fetter the Alcalde, women and all, the poor wretches were set free. By this time the rails had been replaced, ahd, remounting our carriages amid the patriotie and triumphant shouts of the soidiers, we slowly crept ahead for about an hour, when we found the line cut again by the same band, causing us o further actention of an hour and @ half, At Inst we arrived at Zu- marraga—where my portmanteau mysteriously vanished—after a journey of seven honrs. Here we were crammed into an omnibas, in which we were tortured for six hours, arriving at San Sebastian at twelve o'clock at night. and twisted into ait manner oi shapes, I have not even yet been able to uncurl myself completely, and expect it wilt take some hours’ soaking in a warm bath before fegain my pristine Ittheness of limb. To-morrow I propose paying a visit to Santa Cruz, and shall then return to headquarters via Vittoria, where my steed, more fortunate than I, is peacefully chewing the cud of oats and reflections combined. Iam not sure that all horses are ruml- nating animals, but at any rate mine is. THE CARLIST HEADQUARTERS. Interview with Goneral Ollo, tho Commander-ime Chief—What He Saya of Den Carlos Cuba and Slavery Discussed. ArT Cannist Halpag ARenas BAYONNE, April 11, 1873, t WHERE ARE T At Bayonne I was no doubt nearer to the Carlist camp, geographically speaking, than I would have been at Nova Zembia, and perhaps not so remote from the possibility of seeing the Oarlists them- selves, as I was provided with a letter to their com- mander-in-chief, General Ollo; for, althouga noml- nally Elio ts Minister of War and chief of tho staff, he was, I was assured, really the commander of all the Carlists, including Carlos VII. himself, an@ I haa been informed that I should find him re- siding atthe home of a nobleman onthe French side of the lines in company with Don Carlos, Oa@ my arrival, however, he was gone. He had taken the field, and, as there was no likelihood that he would soon return, I could only resolve to follow. Resolving was easy enough ; but to follow, how was the thing to bo done? Where was the field he nad taken, and who would tell how to buy a ticket for the station nearest to it? In the presence of these grand problems I made & short halt; but Bayonne is a city (ull of shrowd and ingenious people, a8 sharp as the bayonets that aro no longer made here; and one of the ingenious inhabitants was found ready to assist me when made cog- nizant of my wishes, and, above all, thoroughiy satisfied of the authenticity of my credentials, He agreed to put me not only over the frontier, but into Ollo’s camp. There was but one com- dition—I must do whatever he requested of me. £ agreed, of course, and was thereupon told to re- turn and make myself “at case in mine inn,” and to wait paticntly Wl some ono came to me with the gentleman's card. Ireturned to my hotel, To say that I made my- self at ease there would be doing injustice to the ingenuity in making people miserable that dis- tinguishes tho keepers of hotels in that country. I waited, moreover; but I would not do wrong te my cartosity and impulse by saying that I waited Patlently. oARD AND A CARRIAGE. At about four in the afternoon a handsome car- riage stopped at the door of the hotel. It was drawn by a pair of splendid horses, and the doors were decorated with the crest of one of the richest noblemen of the Department of tne Bassés Pyronees. From thia carriage was sent up to me the card I awaited and a note. In five minutes I was in the carriage, taking with me, a8 luggage, Only an umbrella, a travelling shawiand @ revolver. An accomplished Spanish gentieman was already in the carriage, and in front of us was @ coffin, covered with @ black cloth. It occupied the whole widthof the carriage. It turned out that this coffin contained a handsome, brass, four-pounder cannon, cast in the French govern- ment foundry at Nantes, and now on its way to the Carlist camp. {nitlated as to the contenss of the coffin, [ was nota little curious as to how it could have mado the passage all the way to Bayonne Without discovery, ADVENTURES OF A CANNON IN DISGUISE. “Well said, my fellow traveliot ; this is the fourth cannon, Various ruses have been employed in the different cases. This cannom was brought from Nantes by acoré, He was froqnently asked about the great weight of this box. He always answered that it contained @ marble Holy Virgin to orna- ment bis churoh, and, for that matter, it is a Vie- goat's milk, but after beine away for am hour my | gin. Diow It bas become a dend body, sad Whey