The New York Herald Newspaper, August 10, 1872, Page 3

THE ROAD TO WILL, Starting from Kwihara---A Plunge Into the Wilderness. Stampede of the Herald Ex- pedition. Recovering the Runaways---Chas- tisement of Incorrigibles. THE STRONG FORTRESS OF UGUNDA. Ma-Manyara---His Retinue and His Wonderment. The “Tweet-Tweet” of the Honey Bird. Quelling the Guides’ Revolt Among the Men---Bombay Thrashed. Reenic Beauties of Southern Ukawendi. MOUNT MAGDALA. Crossing a River Over a Natural Bridge of Water Plants. Wholesale Blackmailing by the Native Chiefs. COST OF FERRIAGE IN UHHA. Crossing the Malagarazi--The Donkey’s Fate. A Night Flight from the Wahha. First Glimpse of Lake Tanganyika. eegererrrcibeeeneen, FRANTIC JOY IN THE CARAVAN. A Triumphal Procession Into Bunder Ujiji. The Meeting with Doctor David Livingstone. FINIS CORONAT OPUS. BUNDER, UJ11, ON LAEE TANGANYIKA, CENTRAL AFRICA, November 23, 1671. Only two months gone, and what a change in my feelings! But two months ago, what a peevish, fret- fal soul was mine! What a hopeless prospect pre- gented itself before your correspondent! Arabs ‘vowing that I would never behold the Tanganyika; Bheikh, the son of Nasib, declaring me a madman to bis fellows because I would not heed his words. My men deserting, my servants whining day by @ay, and my white man cndcavoring to impress me ‘with the beliof that we were al! doomed men! And the only answer to it all 1s, Itvingstone, the hero ‘traveller, is alongside of me, writing as bard as he can to his friends in England, India and America, and 1 am quite safe and sound in henlth and limb. ‘Wonderful, is it not, that such » thing should be, when the ecers had foretold tut it would be other. ‘wise-—that all my schemes, that all my determina- tion would avai] me nothing? But probably you fare in as much of a hurry to know how it all took place as] am to relate. So, to the recital, THE START FOR THE LONG MARCH. September 23 1 icft Unyamyembe, driving before me fifty well-aried black men, loaded with the goods of the expedition, and dragging after me one white man. Several Arabs stood by my late Feaidcnce to sce the last of me and mine, as they felt assured there was not the least hope of their ever seeing me agiio, Shaw, the white man, was pale ay death, and would willingly have received ‘the order to stop behind in Unyamycmbe, only he hhad not quite the courage to ask permission, from the fact that only the night before he had expressed a@ope that I would not leave him behind, and J Dad promised to give him a good riding donkey and to walk after him until he recovered perfect health. However, a8 I gavo the order to march, Bome of the men, In @ hurry to obey whe order, managed to push by him suddenly, and down he went like a dead man. The Arabs, thinking, doubtless, that I ‘Would not go now because my white subordinate seemed s0 ill, hurried in a body to the fallen man, loudly crying at what they were pleased to term My crucity and obstinacy ; but, pushing them back, IT mounted Shaw on bis donkey, and told them that Imuast see the Tanganyika first, as] had sworn to goon. Putting two soldiers, one on each side of him, I ordered Shaw to move on and not to play the fool before the Arabs, lest they should triumph over us. Three or four black laggards loth te go (Bombay was one of them) received my dog whip Across their shoulders asa gentle intimation that I | ‘Was not to be bauiked after having fed them so Jong and paid them s0 much. And {t was thus we Jef Unyanyembe. Not in the best humor, was it ? Bowever, where there is will there is a way. Once away from the hateful valicy of Kwihara, Once Out of sight of the obnoxious flelds my enthu- ‘eiasm for my work rose as newborn as when I left the coast, But my enthusiasm was shortlived for before reaching camp I was almost delirious with Sever. Long before | reached the camp I saw from . @ridge overlooking a fair valley, dotted with vil- Jages and green with groves of plantains and ficlds of young rice, my tent and from its tall Pole the ¥ American flag waving gaily before the strong breeze which biew from the eastward. When I had _ atrived at the camp, burning with fever, my pulse bounding many degrees too fast and my temper made more acrimonious by my suiferings, 1 found the carp almost deserted. SHARP MEASURES POR DESERTDRS. ‘The men as sodn ag they had arrived at Mkwonkwe, the village agreed upon, had hurried back to Kwihara. Livingstone’s letter carrier had not made his appearance—it was an abandoned camp. A instantly despatohed six Of the best of those who had refused to return to ask ‘Nasi, to lend or sell me the longest slave chain he had, then to hunt up the runaways and bring them back to camp bound, and promised them that for every head captured they should have a bran new cloth. I algo did not forget to tell my trusty men to tell Livingstone’s messenger that if he did not come tocamp before night I would return to Up- yanyembe—or Kwihara rather, for 1 was yet in Unyanyembe—catch him and put him in chains and never release him until bis. master saw him, My men went off in high glee, and 1 went off to bed pass- ing long hours groaning and tossing about for the deadly sickness that had overtaken me. RETURN OF THE RUNAWAYS, Next morning fourteen out of twenty of those ‘who had deserted back to their wives and huts (as is generally the custom) had reappeared, and, as the fever had left me, 1 only lectured them, and they gave me their promise not to desert me again under any circumstances. Livingstone’s messen- ger had passed the night in bonds, because he had resolutely refused to. come. I unioosed him and gave him a paternal lecture, painting in glowing colors the benefits he would receive if he came along quietly and the horrible punishment of being chained up until I reached Ujiji if he was still re- solved not to come, “Kaif Halleck” (Arabic for “Flow do you do ?’’) melted, and readily gave me hig promise to come and obey me as he would his ‘own master—Livingstone—until we should see him, “which Inshallah we shall! Please God, please God, we shall,” I replied, “and yeu will be no loser,”” PUSHING ON. During the day my soldiers had captured the others, and as they all promised obedience and fidelity in future they escaped punishment. But I waa well aware that go long as 1 remained in such close proximity the temptation to revisit the fat pasture grounds of Unyanyembe, where they had luxuriated 80 long, would be too strong, and to enable them to resist Iordered a march towards evening, and two hours after dark we arrived at the village of Kasegera. THE ROUTE, It is possible for any of your readers 80 disposed to construct.a map of the road on which the HERALD expedition was now journeying, if they draw a line 150 miles long south by west from Unyanyembe, then 150 miles west northwest, then ninety miles north, half east, then seventy miles west by north, and that will take them to Ujijt. CHAINING AND FLOGGING THE REFRACTORY. Before taking up the narrative of the march } must tell you that during the night after reaching Kasegera two deserted, and on calling the men to fall in for the road I detected two more. trying to steal away behind some of the huts of the village wherein we were encamped, An order quietly given to Chowpereh and Bombay soon brought them back, and without hesitation I had them tied up and flogged, and then adorned their stub- born necks with the chain kindly leit by Sheikh bin Nasib, Ihad good cause to chuckle complacently for the bright idea that suggested the chain as a means to check the tendency of the bounty jumpers to desert; for these men were as much bounty Jumpers as our refractory roughs during the war, who pocketed their ‘thousands and then coolly deserted. These men, imitating their white prototypes, had received double pay of cloth and double rations, and, imagining they could do with me as they could with the other good white men, whom tradition kept faithtully in memory, who had preceded your correspondent in this cour- try, waited for opportunities to decamp; but I was determined to try a new method, not having the fear of Exeter Halt before my eyes, and I am happy to say to-day, for the benefit of all future trayel- lers, that it isthe best method yet adopted, and that I will never travel in Africa again withont a good long chain. Chowpereh and Bombay returned to Unyanyembe and the “HERALD Expedition” kept on its way south, for I desired to put as many miles as possible between that district and ourselves, for I perceived that few were inclined for the road, my white man, I am sorry to say, least of all. The village of Kigandu was reached after four hours’ march from Kasegera. SHAW, THB ENGLISHMAN, FALLS BY THE ROAD AND 18 SENT BACK. As we entered the camp Shaw, the Enghshman, fell from his donkey, and, despite all endeavors to raise him up, refused to stand, When his tent was pitched 1 had him carried in from the sun, and after tea was made J persuaded him to swallow a cup, which seemed to revive him. He then said to me, “Mr. Stanley, I don’t believe I can go farther with you. I feel very much worse, and I beg of you to let me go back.” This was just what I expected. Iknew perfectly well what was coming while he was drinking his tea, and, with the illustrious ex- ample of Livingstone travelling by himself before me, Iwas asking myself, Would it not be just as well for me to try to do the same thing, instead of dragging an unwilling man with me who would, if I refused to send him back, be only a hindrance? So I told bim, “Weil, my dear Shaw, I have come ; to the conclusion that it is best you should return, and I will hire some carriers to take you back in a cot which I will have made immediately to carry youtm. Inthe meanwhile, for your own sake, I would advise you to keep yourself as busy as possi- ble and follow the Instructions as to diet and medi- cine which I will write ont for you. You shall have the key to the storeroom, and you can help your- self to anything you may fancy.’? These were the words with which I parted from him—as next morning I only bade him goodby, besides enjoining on him to be of good hope, as, if I was successful, not more than five months would elapse before I would return to Unyapyembe. Chowpereh and Bombay returned before I started from Kigandn, with the runaways, and efter administering to them a sound flogging I chained them, and the ex- pedition was once more on its way. THE FOREST COUNTRY. ‘We were about entering the immense forest that separates Unyanyembe from tne district of Ugunda. In lengthy undulating waves the land stretches before us—the new land which no European knew, the unknown, mystic land. The view which the eyes hurry to embrace as we ascend some ridge higher than another is one of the most dishearten- ing that can be conceived. Away, one beyond an- other, wave the lengthy rectilinear ridges, clad in the same garb of color. Woods, woods, woods, forests, leafy branches, green and sere, yellow and dark red and purple, then an indefinable occan, bluer than the biuest sky. The horizon all around shows the same scene—a sky dropping into the depths of the endless forest, with but two or three tall giants of the forest higher than their neigh- bors, which are conspicuous in their outlines, to break the monotony of the scene, On no one point do our eyes rest with pleasure; ‘they have viewed the same outlines, the same forest ana the same horizon day after day, week after week; and again, like Noah's dove from wandering over ® world without a halting place, return wearied with the search. THE FOREST FEVER. Mukunguru, or fever, is very plentiful in these forests, owing to their density preventing free cir- culation of air, a8 well as want of drainage. As we proceed on our journey, in the dry season as it is with us now, we see nothing very offensive to the sight. Ifthe trees are dense, impeding fresh air, we are shaded from the sun, and may often walk long stretches with the hat off. Numbers of trees lie about in the last stages of decay, and working with might and main are numberless ants of vari- ous species to clear the encumbered ground, and thus they do such @ country as this great service. Impalpably, however, the poison of the dead and corrupting vegetation is inhaled into the system with often as fatal result as that which is said to arise from the vicinity of the upas tree. The. first evil results experienced from the presence of malaria are confined bowels, an oppressive lan- guor, excessive drowsiness and a constant dispo- sition to yawn. The tongue has a sickly yellow hue, or is colored almost to blackness; even the teeth assume a yellow color and become coated with an offensive matter, The eyes sparkle with @ lustre which is an unmistakable symptom of the fever in its incipient state, which presently will rage through the system and lay the sufferer pros- trate quivering with agony. This fever is some- times preceded by a violent shaking fit, during which period blankets may be heaped upon the sufferer with but litte amelioration of hig state. It is then succeeded by an unusnally ae. vere headache, with @xcessive pains abons HERALD, SATURDAY, AUGUST 10, 1872.-WITH SUP. ‘Joind and spinal column, epreading: gradually over the shoulder blades, and whicb, running up the nape of the neck, finally find a lodgment in the posterior and front parts of the head. This kind 1s generally of the intermittent type, and is not considered dangerous. The re- mittent form—the most dangerous—is not pre- ceded by a shaking fit, but the patient is at once seized with excessive heat, throbbing temples, loin and spinal aches: a raging thirst takes pos- session of him, and the brain becomes crowded with strange tancies, which sometimes assume most hideous shapes. Before the darkened vision float in a seething atmosphere figures of created and uncreated, possible and impossible figures, which are metamorphosed every instant into stranger shapes and designs, growing every instant more | eoniused, more complicated, hideous and terrible until the sufferer, unabic to bear longer the dis- tracting scene, with an effort opens his eyes and dissolves it, only to glide again unconsciously into another dreamland, where a similar unreal inferno ie dioramically revealed. THE CAPITAL OF UGUNDA. It takes seven hours to traverse the forest be- tween Kigandu and Ugunda, when we come to the capital of the new district, wherein one may laugh ‘at Mirambo and his forest thieves. At least the Sultan, or Lord of Ugunda, feels in a laughing mood while ia his strong stockade, should one but hint to him that Mirambo might come to settle ap the long debt that Chieftain owes him, for deleating him the last time—a year ago—he attempted to storm his place. And weil may the Sultan laugh at him, and all others which the hospitable Chief may permit to reside within, for it is the strongest Place—except Simba-Moeni and Kwikuru, in Unyanyembe—I have as yet seen In Africa. The defences of the capital consist of a strong stockade surrounding it, or tall thick poles planted deep in the earth, and so close to each other in some places that a spear head could not be driven between, At intervals also rise wooden towers above the palis- | ade, where the best marksmen, known for their skill with the musket, are posted to pick out the foremost or most prominent of the assailants. Against such forces as the African chiefs could bring against such palisaded villages Ugunda may bée® considered impregnable, though a few white men with a two-pounder might soon effect an en- trance. Having arrived safely at Ugunda we may now proceed on our journey fearless of Mirambo, though he has. attacked places four days south of this; but as he has already at a former time felt the power of the Wanyamwezi of Ugunda he will not venture again ina hurry. On the sixth day of our departure from Unyanyembe we continued our journey south, THE KNOW-NOTHING OF MANYARA. Tiree long marches, under a hot sun, through jungly plains, heat-cracked expanses of prairie land, through young forests, haunted by the tseetse and sword fies, considered fatal to cattle, brought | us to the gates of a village called Manyara, whose chief was determined not to let usin nor sell us & grain of corn, because he had never seen a white man before, and be must know ali about this won- derful specimen of humanity before he would allow us to pass through his country. My men were im- mediately dismayed at this, and the guide, whom 1 had already marked as a coward, and one 1 mis- trusted, quaked as if he had the ague. The chief, however, expressed his belief that ‘we should find a suitable camping place near some pools of water distant halfa mile to the right of his village. PROPITIATING THE CHIEF. Having arrived at the khambi, or camp, I des- patched Bombay with a propitiating gift of cloth to the Chief—a gift at once so handsome and so munificent, consisting of no less than two royal cloths and three common dotis, that the Chief sur- rendered at once, declaring that the white man was @ superior being to any he had ever seen. “Surely,’’ said he, “he must have a friend; otherwise how came he to send me such fine cloths? Tell the ‘white man that I shall come and see him.” Permis- sion was at once given to his people to scll us as Much corn as we needed. We had barely finished distributing five days’ rations to cach man when the Chief was announced. AN AFRICAN ROYAL VISIT. Gunbearers, twenty in number, preceded him, and thirty spearmen followed him, and behind these came eight or ten men loaded with gifts of honey, mative beer, holcus sorghum, beans and maize. Iat once advanced and invited the Chief to my tent, which had undergone some alterations, ‘that I might honor him as much as lay in my power. Ma-manyara was a tall, stalwart man, with a very pleasing face. He carried in his hand acouple of spears, and, with the exception of a well-worn bar- sati around his loins, he was naked. Three of his principal men and himself were invited to seat. themselves on my Persian carpet. They began to admire it excessively, and asked if it came from my country? Where was my country? Was it large? How many Gays to it? Was I aking? Had I many soldiers? were questions quickly asked, and’ as quickly answered, and the ice being broken, the chief being equally candid as I was myself, he grasped my fore and middle fin- gers and vowed we were friends, The revolvers and Winchester’s repeating rifies were things so wonderful that to attempt to give you any idea of how awe-struck he and his men were would task my powers. ROYAL’ WONDER, The Chief roared with laughter; he tickled his men in the ribs with his forefinger, he clasped their London, to everybody in need of cartridges to ex- plode. The third day, arming myself with adoubie- barrelled English smooth-bore, | reaped @ bountiful harvest of meat, and having marched over a larger space saw a much larger variety of game than on any preceding day. ‘The Gombe Mellah during the dry season is but a syatem of long, narrew pools, full of crocodiles and hippopotami, In the wet season it overflows its banks and is a swift, broad stream, emptying into the Malagarazi, thence into the Lake Tanganyika. THB HONEY BIRD. from Manyara to Marefu, in Ukonongo, are five days’ marches, It is an uninhabited forest now and is about eighty miles in length. Clumps Of forest and dense islets of jungle dot plains which separate the forests proper. It 1s monotonous owing to the sameness of the scenes. And throughout this length of eighty miles there is nothing to catch a man’s ey¢ tm search of the picturesque or novel save the Gombe’s pools, with their amphibious inhabitants, and the variety of noble game which inhabit the forests and plain, A travelling band of Wako- nongo, bound to Ukonongo from Manyara, prayed to have our escort, which was readily granted. ‘They were famous foresters, who knew the various fruits fit toeat; who knew the cry of the honey bird, and could follow it to the treasure of honey ‘which it wished to show its human friends, It is a pretty bird, not much larger than a wren, and, “tweet-tweet,”’ it immediately cries when it sees a human being. It becomes very busy all at once, hops and skips, and fies from branch to branch with marvellous celerity. The traveller hfts up his eyes, beholds the tiny little bird, hopping about, and hears its sweet call—‘tweet-tweet-tweet.” Ifhe is a Mkonongo he follows it. Away flies the bird on to another tree, springs to another branch nearer to the lagging man as if to say, ‘Shall J, must I come and fetch you?” but assured by his ad- vance, away again to another tree, coquets about, and tweets his call rapidly; sometimes more earn- est and loud, as if chiding him for being 0 slow; then off again, until at last the treasure is found and secured. And as he is a very buay little bird, while the man secures his treasure of honey, he plumes himeelf, ready for another fight and to discover another treasure. Every evening the Makonongo brought us stores of beautiful red and white honey, which is only to be secured in the dry season, Over pancakes and fritters the honey is very excellent; but it is apt to disturb the stomach, I seldom re- joiced in its sweetness without suffering some indis- Position afterwards. DANGER, As we were leaving the banks of the Gombe at one time, near a desolate looking place, fit scene for a tragedy, occurred an incident which I shall not readily forget. I had given three days’ rest to the soldiers, and their clothloads were furnished with bountiful supplies of meat, which told how well they had enjoyed themselves during the halt; but the guide, a stubborn fellow, one inclined to be impertinent whenever he had the chance, wished for another day’s hunting. He selected Bombay as his mouthpiece, and I scolded Bombay for being the bearer of such an unreasonable demand, when he knew very wel! I could not possibly aliow it after halting already three days. Bombay became sulky, said it was not his fault, and that he could do nothing more than come and tell me, which I denied in toto, and said to him that he could have done much, very much more, and better, by telling the guide that another day’s hait was impossible; that we had not come to hunt, but to march and find the white man, Living- stone; that if he had spoken to the guide against it, as it was his duty, he being captain, Instead of accepting the task of conveying unpleasant news to me, it would have been much better. I ordered- the horn to sound, and the expedition had gone but three miles when I found they had come to & dead stand, As I was walking up to see what was the matter I saw the guide and his brother sitting on an ant hill, apart from the other peo- ple, fingering their guns in what ap- peared to me a most suspicious manner Calling Salim, 1 took the double-barrelied smooth-bore and slipped in two charges of buck- shot, and then walked on to my people, keeping an eye, however, upon the guide and his brother. I asked Bembay to give me an explanation of the Btoppage. He would not answer, though he mum- bled something sullenly, which was unintelligible tome, 1 looked to the other people, and per- ceived that they acted in an frresolute manner, as ifthey feared to take my part or were of the same mhnd as the party on the ant hill. I was but thirty paces from the guide, and throwing the barrel of the gun into the hollow of my left hand, I pre- sented it, cocked at the guide and called out to him if he did not come to me at once I would shoot him, giving him and his companion to understand that I had twenty-four small bullets in the gun and that I couid blow them to pieces. THE REDELLIOUS GUIDR, In a very reluctant manner they advanced toward me. When they were sufficiently near I ordered them to halt; but the guide, as he did so, brought his gun to the present, with his fnger on the trig- ger, and, with a treacherous and cunning smile which 1 perfectly understood, he asked what I wanted of him. His companion, while he was speak- ing, was sidling to my rear and was imprudently engaged in filling the pan of his musket with pow- der; but a threat to finish him if he did not go back to his companion and there stand until I gave him permission to move compelled this villanous fore and middle fingers, vowed that the Muzungu ‘was 4 Wonder, @ marvel, and no mistake. Did they ever see anything like it? “No,” his men solemniy4: said, Did they ever hear anything like it before? “No,” as solemnly as before. ‘Is he not a wonder?. Quite a wonder—positively a wonder!” WHITE MAN’S POMBE, My medicine chest was opened next, and I un- corked a small phial of medicinal brandy and gave each a teaspoonful. The men all gazed at their Chief and he gazed at them; they were questioning each other with their eyes. What wasit? Pombe was my reply. Pombe kisungu. (The white man’spombe.) “Surely this is also wonderful, as all things belonging to him are,’ said the Chief. “Wonderful,” they echoed; and then all burst into another series of cachinations, car-splitting almost. Smelling at the ammonia bottle was a thing all must have; but some were fearful, owing to the effects produced on each man’s eyes and the facial contortions which followed the olfactory effort. The Chief smelt three or four times, after which he declared his headache vanished and that I must be a@great and good white man. Suffice it that J made myself so popular with Ma-manyara and his people that they will not forget me in a hurry. A NIMROD'S PARADISE. Leaving kind and hospitable Ma-manyars, after a four hours’ march we came to the banks of the Gombe Nullah, not the one which Burton, Speke and Grant have described, for the Gombe which I mean is about one hundred and twenty-five miles south of the Northern Gombe. The glorious park Jand spreading out north and south of the South- ern Gombe is a hunter's paradise. It is fall of game of all kinds—herds of buffalo, giraffe, zebra, pallah, water buck, springbok, gemsbok, blackbuck and kuda, besides several eland, warthog, or wild boar, and hundreds of the smaller antelope. We saw all these in one day, and at night heard the lions roar and the low of the hippopotamus, 1 halted here three days to shoot, and there fs no occasion to boast of what I shot, considering the myriads of game I saw at every step I took. Not half the animals shot here by. myself and men were made use of. Two buf- faloes and one kudu were brought to camp the first day, besides a wild boar, which my mess finished up in one night. My boy gun-bearers sat up the whole night eating boar meat, and until 1 went to sleep I could hear the buffalo meat sizzing over the fires aa the Islamized soldiers prepared it for the road. SHODDY AMMUNITION. ‘The second day of the halt I took the Winchester rifle or the fifteen-shooter to prey on the populous plain, but l only bagged a tiny biue buck by shoot ing it through the head, Ihad expected great things of this rife, and am sorry I was disappointed. The Winchester rifle cartridges might as wéll have been filled up with sawdust as with the powder the New York Ammunition Company put in them. Only two out of ten would fire, which so apoiled my aim that nothing could be done with the rife. The cartridges of all the Eng- leh ries alwave went of, and Icommend Bley, of Thersites to execute the “right about” with a promptitude whien earned commendation from me. Then, facing my Ajax of a guide with my gun, I next requested him to lower his gun if he did not wish to receive the contents of mine in his heaa; andido not know but what the terrible catas- trophe warranted by stern necessity had oc- curred then and there if Maboukl (‘“bull- headed”? Mabouki, but my faithful porter and faithful —_ soldier) had not dashed the man’s gun aside asking him how he dared level his gun at his master, and then thrown himself at my feet, praying me to forgive him. Mabouki’s action and subsequent conduct somewhat disconcerted myself a8 well as the murderous-looking guide, but I felt thankful that I had been spared shedding blood, though there was great provocation. Few cases Of homicide could have been more justified than this, and I felt certain that this man had been seducing my soldiers from their duties to me, and was the cause principally of Bombay remaining in the background during this interesting episode of a march through the wilderness, instead of acting the part which Mabouki so readily undertook to do, When Mabouki's prayer ‘for forgiveness was. seconded by that of the principal culprit, that I would overlook his act, 1 was enabled to act as became @ prudent commander, though I felt some remorse that I had not availed myself of the opportunity to punish theguide and his com- panion as they eminently deserved. But perhaps lad I proveeded to extremities my people—fickle enough at all times—would have taken the act ag justifying them for deserting in abody, and the search after Livingstone had ended there and then, which would have been as unwelcome to the HERALD a8 unbappy to BOMBAY ES IT. However, a8 Bombay could not bend himself to ask forgiveness, Icame to the conclusion that it were best he should be made to feel the penalty for stirring dissensions in the expedition and be brought to look with a more amiable face upon the scheme of proceeding to Ujiji through Uko- nongo and Ukawendi, and I at once proceeded about it with such vigor that Bombay's back will for as long @ time bear traces of the punishment which I administered to him as his frontteeth do of that which Speke rightfully bestowed on him some eleven years ago. And here I may as well in- terpolate by way of parenthesis that I am not at all obliged to Captain Burton for a recommendation of a man who go {li deserved it as Bombay. * “eh ARAB Ewpassy. Arriving at Marefu, we overtook an embassy from the Arabs at Unyanyembe to the Chief of the fero- cious Watuta, who live a month's march southwest of this frontier village of Ukonongo. (ld Hassan, the jhba, was the person who held the honor- of Chief of the embassy, who had volun- teered to conduct the negotiations which were to seeure the Watute’s services against Mirambo, the dreaded Chief of Uyoweb. Assured by the Arabs that there was po danger, and having received the sum of $40 for his services, he had gone on, san- Wwuine of succege, and had prrived at Marefe, where ‘we overtook him. But old Hassan was not the man for the position, as 1-perceived when, after visit- ing me in my tent, he began 10 unfold the woes which already had befallen him, which were as nothing, however, to those sure to happen to him if he went on much farther. There were only two roads by which he might | hope to reach the Watuta, and these ran through countries Where the people of Mbogo of Ukonongo | were at war with Niongo, the brother of Manua | Sera (the chief who disturbed Unyanyembe during | Speke’s residence there), and the Wasavira con- tended against Simba, son of King Mkasiva, He was eloquent in endeavoring to dissuade me from the attempt to pass through tne country of the | Wasavira, and advised me as an old man who knew ‘well whereof he was speaking not to proceed farther, but wait at Marefu until better times; and, sure enough, on my return from Ujiji with Living- stone, I heard that old Hassan was still.encamped at Marefu, waiting patiently for the better times he hoped to see. THE MORALE IMPROVING. We left old Hassan—aiter earnestly commending him to the care of ““Allah’’—-the next day, for the | Prosecution of the work of the expedition, fecling much happier than we had felt for many a day. Desertions had now ceased, and there remained in chains but one incorrigible, whom I had appre- hended twice after twice deserting. Bombay and his sympathizers were now beginning to perceive that after all there was not much danger—at least not as much as the Arabs desired us to belleve— and he was heard expressing his belief in his | broken English that I would “catch the Tanganyika | after all,” and the standing joke was now that we ; could smell the fish of the Tanganyika Lake, and | that we could not be far from it. New scenes also met the eye, Here and there were upheaved above the tree tops sugar-loaf hills, and, darkly | blue, west of us loomed up a noble ridge of hills _ which formed the boundary between Kamirampo's | territory and that of Utende. Elephant tracks | became numerous, and buffalo met the delighted eyes everywhere. Crossing the mountainous ridge of Mwaru, with its lengthy slope slowly descending | ‘weetward, the vegetation became more varied and | the outlines of the land before us became more picturesque. We became sated with the varieties of novel fruit which we saw hanging thickly on trees. There was the mbembu, with the taste of an overripe peach; the tamarind pod and beans, with | their grateful acidity, resembling somewhat the | lemon in its flavor, The matonga, or nua vomica, | was weleome, and the luscious singwe, the | plum of Africa, was the most delicious of | al, There were wild plams like our own, \ and grapes unpicked long past their season, | and beyond cating. Guinea fowls, tie moorhen, Ptarmigans and ducks supplied our table; and of- ten the lump of a buffalo or an extravagant piece of venison filled our camp kettles. My health was firmly established. The faster we prosecuted our | journey the better I felt, I had long bidden adieu 1 to the nauseous calomel and rhubarb compounds, | and had become quite a stranger to quinine, ‘There ‘was only one drawback to it all, and that was the feeble health of the Arab boy Selim, who was suf- fering from an attack of acute dyscntery, caused by inordinate drinking of the bad water of the pools at which we had camped between Manyara and Mrera. But judicious attendance and Dover's powders brought the boy around again. MRERA, Mrera, in Ukonongo, nine days southwest of the | Gombe Mellah, brought to our minds the jungle habitats of the Wawkwere on the coast, and an ominous sight to travellers were the bicached | skulls of men which adorned the tops of tall poles before the gates of the village. The Sultan of Mrera and myself became fast iriends after he had tasted | of my liberality. NEARING THE TANGANYIKA LAKE. After a halt of three days at this village, for the | benefit of the Arab boy, we proceeded westerly, | with the understanding that we should behold tue waters of the Tanganyika within ten days. Traversing @ dense forest of young trees, we came to @ plain dotted with scores of ant | Dills. . Their uniform height (about seven | feet high atove the plain) leads me | to believe that they were constructed during an unusually wet season, and when the country was inundated for a long time in consequence. The surface of the plain ajso bore the appearance of being subject to euch inundations. Beyond this plain about four miles we came to a running | stream of purest water—a most welcome sight | after 80 Many mont!'s spent by braekish pools and nauseous swamps. Crossing the stream, which ran northwest, we immediately ascended a steep and-| lofty ridge, whence we obtained a view of grana | and imposing mountains, of isolated hills, rising | sheer to great heights from a plain stretching | far into the heart of Ufipa, cut up by numer- img seross three degrees of longitude and nearly four of latitude, croppiny out at intervals, so that the traveller cannot remain ignorant of the wealth lying beneath. A COLONIZING VISION. Ab, me! What wild and ambitious projects mn @ man’s brain as he looks over the forgotten and | Wnpeopled country, containing in its Losom such Store of wealth, and with such an cxpanse of fer- tile soil, capable of sustaining millions! Whata Settlement one could have in this valley! See, it is broad enough to support a large population | Fancy a church spire rising where tat tamannd rears its dark crown of foliage, and think how well @ Bcore or s0 Of pretty cottages would look of those thorn clumps and gum trees! Faney this lovely valley teeming with herds of cattle and fields of corn, spreading to the right audileft of this stream ! How much better would sacha state become this valley, rathcr than its present deserted and wild aspect! But be hopeful, ‘The day will come and a future year will see it, when happier Jands have become crowded and nations have be- come 80 overgrown that they have no room to turn about. It only needs an Abratiam ov a lot, an Alaric or an Attila to lead their hosis to this land, which, perhaps, has been wisely reserved for such a time, 10 THE MALAGARAZI. After the warning so kindly given by the natives soon after leaving Mrera, in Ukonongo, five days? marehes brought us to Mrera, in tue district of Rusawa, in Ukawendi. Arriving here we ques- tioned the natives as to the best cours to pursue— should we make direct for the Tanganyika or go north to the Malagarazi River? They advised us to the latter course, though no Arab had ever taken it. Two days through the forest, they said, would enable us to reach the Malagarazi. The guide, who had by this forgotten our disagreement, endorsed _ this opinion, as beyond the Malagarazi he was suf- ficiently qualified to show the way, Welaid in a 8.0ck of four days’ provisions against eontingen- cies, and bidding farewell to the hospitable people of Rusawa, continued ourjourney northward, Alter finding a pass to the wooded plateau above Mrera, through the arc of mountains which environed it on the north and we the soldiers improved another occasion to make ‘themselves disagreeable, TURNING AWAY WRATH. One of their number had shot a buffalo towards night, and the approaching darkness had pre- vented him from following {t up to a clump of jungle, whither it had gone to die, and the black Soldiers, ever on the lookout for meat, came. to. me in a body to request a day's halt to cat meat and Make themselves strong for the forest road, to which I gave a point-blank refusal, as I vowed I would not halt again until I did it on the banks of the Malagarazi, where | would give them as much meat as their he: could desire, There was an evident disposition to resist, but I held up.a warn- ing finger a3 an indication that I would not suiter any gruvabling, and told them T had business at Ujiji, which the Wasungu expected I would attend to, and that if 1 failed to periorin it they would take no excuse, but condemn me at once. I saw that they were In an ex echt mood to reléel, and the guMe, who seemed to be ever on the lookout to revenge his humiliation on the Gombe, was a fit man to lead them; but they knew Thad more than a dozen men upon whom i could rely at a crisis, and besides, as no harsh word or offensive epithet challenged them to commence an outbreak, the order to march, though received with mach peevishness, was obeyed. ‘his peevish- ness may always be expected when on a long March, itis much the result of fatigre and monot- ony, every day being but a repetition of previcus days, 1nd a prudent man will-not pay much atten- tion to mere growling and surliness of temper, but keep imseif prepared for an emergency which might possibly arise, By the time we had arrived atcamp we were all in excellent humor with one another, and confidently laughed and shouted until the deep woods rang again. MAGDALA MOUNTAIN, The scenery was getting more sublime every day as we advanced northward, even approaching the terribic. We seemed to have left the monotony of a@ desert for the wild, pleturesque scenery of Abyssinia and the terrible mountalis of the Sierra Nevadas, I named one tabular mountain, which re- called memories of the Abyssinian campaign, Mag- dala, and as 1 gave it a place on my chart it became of great use to me, as it rose so prominently into view that I was enabled to lay down our route pretty accurately, The four days’ provisions we had taken with us were soon consumed, and stili we were far from the Malagarazi River. Though we eked gut my oWn stores with great care, 28 ship~ wrecked men at sea, these also guve out on the sixth day, and still the Malagaraa was pot in sight, The country was getting moro dificult for travel, owing to the numerous ascents ous streams flowing into the Rungwa River, | which during the rainy season overflows | this plain and forms the lagoon set down by Speke ag the Rikwa. The sight was encouraging | in the extreme, for it was not to be doubted now that we were near the Tanganyika. We continued still westward, crossing many a broad stretch of marsh and oozy bed of mellahs, whence rose the south. NATIVE WARS CAUSE ANOTHER DETOUR, At @ camping place beyond Mrera we heard enough from some natives who visited us to assure ws that we were rushing to our destruction if we took a road leading north-northwest. While con- tinuing on this course we crossed streams running to the Rungwa south and others running directly north to the Malagaraz, from either side of a lengthy ridge which served to separate the country of Unyamwezi from Uka- wend We were also attracted for the first time by the lofty and tapering moule tree, used on the | Tanganyika Lake for the canocs of the natives, | ‘who dwell on its shores, The banks of the numer- | ous streams were lined with dense growths of these | shapely trees, as well as of sycamore, and gigantic tamarinds, which rivalled the largest sycamore in | their breadth of shade. The undergrowth of | bushes and tall grass dense and impenctrable, likely resorts of leopard and lion and wild boar, were enough to appal the stoutest heart. One of my donkeys, while being driven to water along a narrow path, hedged by the awesome brake on ¢ither side, was attacked by a leopard, | which fastened its fangs in the poor ani- | mals neck, and it would have made short | work of it had not its companions set up such a | braying chorus a6 might well bave ternfied a score of leopards. And that same night, while en- camped contiguous to that limpid stream of | Mtambu, with that lofty line of enormous trees rising dark and awful above us, the lions issued | from the brakes beneath and prowled about the well-set bush defence of our camp, venting their | fearful clamor without intermission until morning. | Towards daylight they retreated to their leaty caverns, for There the lion dwells, the monarch, Mightiest among the brutes. ‘There his right to reign snpremest Never one his claim disputes. There he layeth dows to slamher, Having slain and ta’en bis Gil, There he roaineth, there he croucheth, ‘As It suits his lordly will. And few, I believe, would venture therein to dis- pute it; not J, “i’aith’ when searching after Liv- ingstone. SOUTHERN UKAWENDI. Our camps by these thick belts of timber, peo- pled as they were with the wild beasts, my men never fancied, But Southern Vkawendi, with its fair, lovely valleys and pellucid streams nourishing vegetation to extravagant growth, density and height, ie infested with troubles of this kind, And it i probable, from the spread of this report amoug the natives, that this ls the cause cf the scant | population of one Of the loveliest countries Africa | can boast. The fairesi of Califurnia scenery cannot excel, though it may equal, such scenes | ag Ukawendi can boast of, and yet a lend a: agthe State of New York is ulaost uainh Days and days one may travel through primeval | forests, now ascending ridges overlvssing broad, | ‘well watered valleys, with belts of valuable timber | crowning the ba@mks of the rivers, and behold ex- (isite bits of scenery—wild, fantastic, picturesque and pretty—all within the svope of vision which- ever way.one may turn. And to crown the glories Of this lovely portion of earth, underneath the eur- face but p few feet te one mass Of iron ore, extend- streams that formed the Rupgwa some forty miles | still kept westward, After receiving hints of how | to evade the war-stricken country in our front, we | and descents we hadto make in the course of @ day’s march, Bleached and bare, it was cut up by @ thousand decp ravines and intersected by @ thousand cry water courses whose beds were filled with immense sandstone rocks and boulders washed | away from the great heights which tese above us | onevery side. We were not protected now by the | shades of the forest, aud the heat became exces- | sive and water became scarce. But we stil held on our way, a8 8 halt would be death to us, hoping | that each day’s march would bring us in sight of | the long-looked for and much-desired Malagarazle | Fortunately we had filied our bags and baskets with | the forest peaches with which the forests o! Rusawa | had supplied us, and tuese sustained us in this ex- tremity, A RESTING PLACE. On the seventh day, after a six hours’ march, during which we had descended more than a thou sand feet, through rocky ravine*, and over miles of rocky plateaus, above which -protruded masses of hematite of iron, we arrived at a happy camping Place, situated in a valley which was seductively pretty gud a hidden garden. Deserted bomas wid us that it had once been occupied, and that at are- cent date, which we took to be a sign that Wwe were not far from habited districts. Before retiring to sleep the soldiers indulged theniselycs ip prayer to Allah for relief, Indeed, our position was must desperate and unenviable; yet since leaving the coast when had it been enviable, and whem had travelling in Africa ever been enviable? SIGNS OF LIFE, Proceeding on our road on the eighth day every thing we saw tended to confirm ts in the betlef that food was at hand, Rhinoceros tracks abounded, and the bois de vache, or buffalo droppings, Were frequent, and the presence of a river or a body of water was known in the humidity of the atmoa- phere, Alter travelling twe hours, still degcending rapidly towards a deep basin which we saw, the foremost of the expedition halted, attracted by the sight of a village situated on a table-topped moun- tain on ourright. The guide told us it must be that of the Son of Nzogera, of Uvinza. We followed a road leading to the foot of the mountain, and | camped on the edge of an extensive morass. Though we fired gans to announce our arrival, it was unnecessary, forthe people were already hur- rying to our camps to inquire about our inventions, The explanation was satisfactory, but they sald that they had taken us to be encimies, few friends having ever come along our road. In a few minutes there was an abundance of meat aud grain In ‘the camp, and the men’s jaws were busy iu the process Of mastication, BLACKMAIL. During the whole of the afternoon we were en- gaged upon the terms Nzogera’s son exacted for the privilege of passing througlt his country, We found him to be the first of tribute-taking tribe which subsequently made much havoc 1a the bales of the expedition. Seven and a half dott of cloth were what we were compelled to pay, whether we returned or proceeded on our way. After a day's halt we proceeded under the guidance of two men granted to me as qualified to show the way to the Malagarazi River. We had to go east-nortireast for & considerable time ip order to'avoid the morass that lay directly across the | country that intervened between the triangular | mountain on whose top Nzogera’s son dwelt. This mareh drains three extensive ranges of mountains which, starting from the westward, separated only by two deep chasms from each other, run at, wide anglos—one southeast, one northeast and the other northwest. From a distance this marsh looks tair enough; stately trees at intervals rise seemingly CONTINUED ON SIXTH PAGE.