The New York Herald Newspaper, March 3, 1872, Page 10

SPRING FASHIONS. "WHAT MARCH HAS BROUGHT FORTH. Independence in Dress—Street Sweepers Versus Good Taste-New Designs in Polonaises, Basques, Suits, Bonnets, &c.—Crocus Af ter Her Clothes—A Stroll Through the Haunts of Fashion. Prompuly on the first day of March, in accord- ‘ance with a custom as fixed as the laws of the Medes and Persians, begin the expositions of spring styles and materials, which are continued with oc- casional intermissions unui Easter. This year the custom was duly vonored, and wie display at the various modistes’ and marchandes de modes’ was fully equal to that of past seasons, ‘This is spring unmistakably. The sun is slowly, bat surely, getiing ready to cross the line on his visit North, and the sky gets vluer and brighter | every day in anticipation of 11s coming. The ladies | must get ready aiso. They owe a great deal Vo the sun, and they sould pay the debt by glowing and gleaming and glistening in their most charming | ature preparatory to the day whea his majesty has climbed high enough to get a good peep at them. Every flower in field, woodiand aud garden is at this very minute trembling with anxiety avout its spring colors, and exerting itself to the utinost, lest it should be behbindhand at the grand floral opening; then why should not the feminine part of the race, the human blossoms, look about them for adornment suited to the season? It isn’t of the sligtilese use to talk of the propriety of the adornment or of its extravagance; for a woman will have new toilets m spring as surely a8 Uhe cro- cuses, and with as good right as Lar as we can see. To | be sure, these spring toilets involve more trouble to Women than Lo crocuses and hyacinths, but that’s because we're so far removed from nature thai everything brings trouble, and the worry may as well be anout clothes as anything else. But, since rhe new dress 1s a loregone conclusion, @ litle talk about Ways and means may be accept- able, and a lititie advice about adaptation, indi- viduality, suitableness of color and material may Bave time, trouble and money. In the first place, a dress, or any part thereof, thatis neither beautiful nor useful should be at once condemned, without trial Ab, what a clearing out of our wardrobes would this sentence involve if carried into rigorous execution! How the dolls’ costumes would be replenished, and how the ragmen would groan under their accumu. lated loads! Beautiiui and useful, iadeed | Whole ‘trades would be ruined, and we shouid Lave a riot Of starved bustle manufacturers, to say nothing of hairimporters aud pattern designers, brought to desperation by our “beauty and usefuiness,” But, for all that, dress should be ruled by these two prin- ciples, and then beauty would be the chief, foruse is beauty. Inthe second place, what 1s beautiful for one woman 1s hideous for another, and 80 individuality in dregs should be accepted before a woman can take the first step toward dressing well, There are a few women who look well in Tady has, a8 yet, advocated the cause, Health and soubor are both opposed to tnis detestable style, and how any woman can retain her self-respect and yet become @ voluntary scavenger, gathering up the dirt aad fitth of the street upon her dress skirt, to be carried ito ner house, is a question Which yet to be soived, ‘{ne skivt just touching the ground in the back, and fairiy concealing tie Toot in front, seems to be the regulation standard; but one just escaping ground all around is preferable, If it 18 desirable to utilize the street costume for house wear, the demi tratn skirt can be easily shortened for the street vy means of tapes or cords underneath, or buttons and Joops near the top, on tre outside, which are con- cealed by the polonaise or overskirt. li has become a matter of Course, aimost, for the past lew seasons, to say that the polonaise is still the ieading garment both Lor house and street wear; and yet, although so widely patrouized, its popu- larity is sill increasing, aod until some garment: is invented thal possesses the same advantages Lo re- commend Lt, the polonaise will not be abaadoned, It 18 convenient, combining what was formerly two garments into one, quite as economical as the basque and overskirt, and withal is becoming, the one great desideratuin, ‘The styles im (!\is garment are so varied that it Would seem aimost impossible ior any ting new to be designed; yet “the cry is still they come.” The leading: designs are in what 1s known as tne ‘‘Mar- guerite” styic—plain for a short disiaice below tie Waist, With much fulness below, usualy imparted by deep box-plaiis laid in the seams, These are very becoming to persons with short waists, but should be adopted with caation by tail personas with very sieader figures. EXPOSITION OF DESIGNS, At Mme. Detmoresi’s emporium the most charm- ing designs were shown iu these and all other gar- Ments jor ladies and chitdren, ‘The specialty at this establisument is she enclosing of ali patterns 1 envelopes, wuich nave a large Llustration of the design and full directions tor putting together printed on the back. ‘Tus is of the greatess assist- ance to all, aad esvectaliy to amateur dressmakers, Here we found tine = distingué “Fuina!? polonaise, with a long Louis XVI. vest— a style which 1s especialy becuming to those inclined toward = embonpvin — ‘The back is a modified ‘Marguerite’ with one deep point, around which the Skirt sets up im @ grace- tuily boufant styie, This ts especialy incended for house wear, although not toappropmiate Lo com- plete a handsome costume de promenade, unique design is the “Isola,” which has a plain Polonaise front, wiih the skirt im the back, attached to # short basque in pecuiarly disposed box-plalts, Then there is tue ‘Dolly Varden,” ja&nty, coquet- sh and just suited to the materials which bear the sume name, and for which i ts especially designed, For those Who admire the effect of the draped apron and basque 13 the “ilaidee,” which has a front in thus style: broad revers at the sides, and a back in the Marguerite style, Tne “Dean’’ has the plaits proceeding [rom the waist line in the back; and decidediy lady-lixe design is the “smeralda,” which is particularly intended to be worn with a skirt trimmed en tabtier, FILLING OUT IN THE BACK. A peculiarity of inmost of the new designs tn polo- naises is taat ail the fulness 13 massed In tie back, leaving the tront and sides quite plain, They are somewhat shorter than fast season, which murht be @ matter of congratulation on the score of economy, but that the materia: saved in the length of the upp’r garment is usually doubled and added to the quantity necessary jor the high skirt garniture, a hich 18 Bot unfrequently three-quarters of @ yard jeep. Another dietinguishing feature is the addition to most of them ol short capes. reaching about to the Waist, which are io varied and beautiful designs,’ the leading ones being Kuown as tne * Broadway,” and the “Promenade.” For demi-saison wear, either en suite or to be made in cashmere, for use with a variety of sults, are the graceful “Marquise,” ‘Countess’? and *Du- chesse” mantles; the two former in the style of the gacque mantles of last season, aud tne latter a double taima with @ plait en cascade down the back. These are most charmingly made in prin- temps gray cashmere, richly braided or embroid- ered, and in biack drap d’été, trimmed with gul- pure lace and handsome passementerie, Also for the same purpose are two particularly graceful jackets, tae “Consiantine” and tae ‘Luiu,” both novel and recherché in design, anything, and they always dress well, as a matter of course. They follow the leading style, whatever it may be, and the resultis satisfactory, All other women follow them, and the result 1s disustrous, Our impression 18 that AMERICAN WOMEN have much more taste than they are supposed to possess. But there is no limit to their weax idolatry of fashion and of ‘what they say 1s worn,’’ sv their taste goes for nothing, as they never develop it. Freedom here, as everywhere, is needed to produce good resuits, A woman’s dress should agree with her inward and outward form, with ner figure and her thought. Fasniou, material, color, ail should subserve the idea, and then the (out ensemble would be, in some degree at least, harmonious. One cannot dress well without making dress a study, But what objection is there to producing @rtistic resulis by means of material and color m dress? 1f this study were enicred into in the true Bpiric, the love of beauty, it Would pe beneficial In itseif to woman. As it is, rivairy 18 S0 oiten the motive power anda slavish following the means, Ulat dress is mostly a degradation, Supposing, thea, that our Crocus is determined to get her spring suit, all by herself, to suit herself and nobody else; she is young and fair and datuiy, and has no delects to cover, no 1eanness to supple- ment, and so she determines to be natural and Jeave art to those who need 1. She remembers | Du that of all things simplicity is most o»coming to a Orocus, and that im proportion as a woman 18 wriukied and haggard she needs heavy and eiaborate dress, With these ideas in her pretty head she goes out among the Spring goods. What does she see? Whai does she notsee? Every,country in the round world has Contributed to dazzle her BLUE BYES. Itasonly March; bit the wily merchant, knowing full well the feminine heart, had covered itis counters and packed m3 shelves with the most bewitching fabrics. How del.cate and, suggesuve fire the new colors! ‘They hint of sloping lawns and croquet parties and flirtations and langulsa- mg moonlight and seashore rambles and mountam delights ad ininttum, The whole suine mer, With 1{8 infinite possibilities, can be seen througn those delicate grenadines, and those pigaés, white and buff, have in every yara long stories of warm, languid mornings, fragrant wich rosevuds. Then there are tie cambrics and the ercaies. Talk about the dowdyness of wrappers! i! a pretty woman ever looks pretiy it’s when she wears a fresh cambric Wrapper, and 4s lor an ugly woman, Why, the less said about her the better, ‘yne cambrics are especially iascinatiug, for they @re both charming and cheap. They lave the inde- scribabie charm ol {resiness and crispuess, of which one never wearles; aid, ihen, they are sim- ple, and Wheu you have simplicity and iresnness in & tollet you have little to as French woman understands this to perfectiou, and contrives Lo look bright and coquettish 1m what an American would spend for her gloves. Even then the Ilitie Parisi enne would be vetter gloved tan our New Yorker, ten to one. “PRESHNESS AND FI aM murmurs Crocus, as she moves softiy about among the new xoods selectiag patteras lor suits and roves, and at ast fods versely auiong Cie looms of Lyous pondering deeply the question of Aimerican suk. The native favric 18 of @ good color, and falls in graceiui lolds wiih Nhe eflect by vuying it our Bhopper Saves enough to afford one of those lovely ight suminer siics that Wil be such a comiort te season Urongh. So sue secures both iresa- pess and titue: for her black SliK Can be worn Where a costly Lyous wouid not be suitavie, and her summer silk 1s tae periection of freshness, She goes among the Japanese gvods, and aamires the soll, dark texture, and wishes she could buy everything pretty, Alpacas and moluwirs she finds by the quantity, and ail a little moxe expensive than List year and wita an upward tendency. So sue hastens to buy her alpaca sult, Jor that sie 1s never Without. Infact, the little lady never looxs more Jadylike than iu that same alpaca, neatly fitted and Feueved by iresh linen anu a orignt ribbon. ‘dye laces and embroideries get ther suare of ar tention, and she now some new and pretty cole Jars and tes that sne determiues to imitate witn | ers. she always buys real lace, and ‘ald over and over, Ull It Seems a part so Ulat With @ yard or two of ribbon as biue as toe sky she 1s all ready to manucacture something altogetuer fasciuating to Wear just under the dimple” in her cum Lace sleeves, too, -Orocus adores, anu she steals some new styles wih tier eyes 1 noboay is the waver. Now slie iivokes tue treasures of We Amilliners, Shave of Eve, what piles of bunnets and hats! Who wil nal’ Walle Crocus asks the qneswon fair banuitti bear down upon the reinparis of straw. Sucna inss as tuey make trying €! i Piey sevile ue queer pew upon their crimps and braids, give aw little saushed shrug, uM tne effect is prjvant (ast) and order the trimmings. Donna Marla gauze, more Jikely than noi, they Choose, for THE WATTLE CLAPEAU sadly needs a yell to protect Luc wearer's face from she March winds. Tue hats are mostiy tiga, wun soallow vrims, aud tie trimming follows the Con. tour, when Crocus goes alter her boots she finds an array of Jootgear dainty enough to urive tae ladies ‘o! the “brave days of old" mad with euvy. Sue a8 sensible enough to order voow with moderate heels, and then proceeds to get fitted. Goat, slong and supple, with drm, thick soles, encloses ‘the tue foot, aud Jo! in a twinkling, it 18 buttoned up, ready to go out and finish 1s promenade, What chauge can taere ve from tne buttoned booty Let no ove dare w propose anyshing beiter, aiways provided fhe heels are not too Jugh, daid # gam, “When is a woman not a wowan?” The projound question belag given up, he gaswered, “When she’s op Frenei iecla’’ Bul it would take plore Wan a gamiu'’s que mn to teii What she 1s under (or over) sich circumstances. Crocus goes jast lor her gloves, and buys some neat dark shades jor ine street. She ever commits tie exiravazance of wearing her evening gioves for shopping, aud so 18 generaily weil gloved, nor beiug obuged for economy's sake tO Wear soled ligbv Colors in the street, Among her moral max ims is the following :—" Bien chausse, e Dien gante, ou va partou.” This lite rale, with a preference for her seli-vespect, when sell-respect competes With other peopig’s opinion, keeps Crocus very well dreased, and thé cymbiuauon would heip other women bevond doubt. STREET SWEEPENS VERSUS GOOD TASTE. The effort to reintroduce trating dresses for street Wear Has been vigor VUAIY prosecuted by a lew Who are ambitious to appea.” Conspicadous, aud have BO reward jor einer devencX pr vrovriety, DD) BO A CHAT ABOUT BASQUES, Basques are ol every conceivabie shape and to swt all tastes, The postilion has been greaily modified, but 18 retained in a pointed fan shape. The “Westcott” 1s one of the Dandsomest of this style. The “Mignon” is daecidedly unique, and cer- tatu to attain prestige, and tne “Imogen” happily combines the posulion with small square tabs. All these are trimmed to simulate vests, and the lawer is an excelient design for a riding habit. Vests are still very fashionably worn, and, when not made separate from the basque, ure simulated by the trimming. The latter arrangement is by tar the most preferaple, as a better it is secured, and it rs cooler for warm weather, A different material, and irequently @ contrasting color, is used witit good effect. They are of all shaves and lengths, pointed, square and round, the longer ones being chosen by ladies inclined towards embonpoint. Sleeves are both close and fuwing—tne close or Huguenot sleeve vying with the demi-wide and “sabov’ sleeves lor street wear, The two latter are used for ordinary house wear, the flowing sleeve for More dressy occasions and we sieeve &l’antique for full evening or reception dress. The antique sleeve is very simple in shape, being straight, ike a coat sleeve, cut of just above the elbow, the edge then pointed or scalloped, and bound. Two or three plaitings of tulle or a tall of lace finishes the euge, and @ bow 1s placed ob te back at the elbow. ‘The Stella 1s @ modification of the sabot sleeve, and will surely become a tavorite for both house and street garments. It is neither too close to be uucomiortavie, nor too wide to be in the way. ‘The esse 13 also a favorite style, agd the Evalle com- bines the comiort o1 the coat sleéve with the grace of a fowing one. THE QUESTION OF OVERSKIRTS, Notwithstanding the prestige of the polonaise, overskiris are by LO means entirely abandoned, but resemble in style as closely as may be the skirts of the rival garments, ‘hey are much shorter than last season, especially m= front, and, like the polonaises, have most of the fulness massed in the back, Piain apcons wili be most in faver, but the draped ones are so generally becom- ing that they have not been abandoned. Kspecialiy worthy Of notice are the Lerlina and Juliet, botn with plain aprons, and the latter most artistically Jooped in the back, So a3 to impart the efect of three points, Another siyle, Walch 18 sure to be- come @ leading one, is the Evyngeline, with a draped apron, Which meets in the back under a sush, and the back par falling square and deep. THE LITTLE ONES NOT FORGOTTEN. Among tue multiplicity of stylisn designe the children are not forgotien. Misses may have their spring sults made up a(ter the graceful Florence,’ the poionatse of which is ornamented over the rs with capes disposed in a novel design; or thel,”? which is simple, yet stylish, The “Isaber’ poionatse nas a Vest front, and is intended to be worn With askirt with high garniture, and the “Eva” is especially remarkable fur the style ot looping. For large hoys ts the “Horton” suit, quite military In appearance, and for smaller ones ie “Maielot suit,” to be completed by a scarlet or crimson sash. BONNETS AND ROUND HATS, The threatened revival of the old-fashioned coal- scuttie bonnet, under the snadow ;jof which our great-grancinothers lived and were happy, has not as yet been accomplished, and we may rest content for this season, at least, in. che happy possession of cnarming aud coguetusi crapeaus dilering very little in shape and general style from tnose of the past season. Hats and bonnets still so closely resemble each other that a hat can be easily used as a bonnet or a bonnet for a hat, simply by adding or removing the strings. ‘The igh, puffed crown is a teature of both, supplemented 1m the bonaet by a narrow front and smal) curtata, ana in the leading style of hat the Henry UL. toque, by a narrow drooping brim all arouad. For demi-saison these are made in fatile or sulk, usually matching with the material or garniture of the costume, and ornamented with a& combination of Jace, ostrich tips aud towers, the mass of the trimming placed on the left siae con- nected with trimmings ia the back, from which depend sprays of Mowers or streamers of mbbon. Later in the season crepe, tulle and lace will ve made up in the same style. As it 1s not so obliga- tory 48 uereto.ore that the bat shail maten with the costume, mMaay brigater colors are used for the pose, but the preference is given to the delicate cameo lnts and light shades of gray with a brighter color combined in the trimming. For evening the toque is made in pale blue or rose color, trimmed with white lace and flowers, and worn Very far back on tie head, showing the entire Joveheau. * Straw promises to be a fureur this season, both for bonne’s ats. The substantial Duustabie, the delicate y chip, goidea Legaorn, the boll, white Covurg, Milesian and Neapoilian are overed sor our sutrages, togetner with their Various imitativas, some pretiy combina. tions ant &@ few uovellies im tae Way of fancy aud embroidered straw. ‘The leading style in straw bonnets approaches nearer to the “coctage’’ shape taan anythiug we bave heretotore had; another has a crescent iront, 4 ligh fat crown aud ratuer deep curtain, and stul another has a high receding crown, a narrow [ront, whic sets dowa closely im tbe style of a sanchon, and a fluted cape, There 18 @ great variety in the shapes, but they all produce tke same effect as the bonnets Mm anaterial with Une Aign putted crowns and are trimimea in much the same manner, In hats a monitied Lous XVL. shage ts the favorite, ant numerous styles Jo turbans, with rather high crowns © sure to gain prestime, FLORAL ORNAMEN ES. Thé Aowers of tis season are beautiful beyond description, and are so accaracely coped from nae ture that itis sometimes almost impossible to be- Meve that they are not real. heir being mounted on flexible stems adds to the delusion; and in the same cluster we have the uiny bud, the half opened bioom, the fai blown rose and the faded flower, with only aeingie withered petal leit to ve wiiness that it has beea, surrounded py tollage with Uny leaves, leaves in their prime, and iaded ones, and tie carelessly broken siem, with 18 quola of thorns, Others are ip graceful garlands and delicate spraya, each Oywer being acco.npanied by 1s natural follage, even im the clusters of mixed flowers. The blue rgses and purple pinks and green violets are things of the past. At Mine, Demorevi’s the display of bonnets is especially attractive, Just the bognet for a piquwat bruuette ig & cottage shape of snowy chip, trimmed with rose-colored aud black grog grain ribbon, with a spray of white pea biossoms failing over the back. The “Juno,” @ bigh, bell crowned turban, ts most exquisitely immed with light bite crépe silk, in combmnacion with bronze gros grain and 4 wreath of motwed leaves, Another pecullat combination of colors {¢ in the gornuure of o turban Of WIG cup, @ deep garnet, gros grain ribbon being used with a delicate salmon, sprays of shaded sweet pea blossoms mingling With the streamers which depend from tne back, Me be Appt gee? ay of brown crépe crown cottage front trimmed with shaded leaves, tea One of the loveliest nats 18 the ‘“Esma,” of split straw, trimmed with eau du Nil silk and twatling grasses, Over which hovers a butterfly, as if uncer- tain where to alight, amid so much loveliness. PARIS FASHIONS LETTER. France Looking Unsuecessfully for a Man to Guide Her Destinies. Shrove Tuesday—The Opera Bal Masque—Anx- iety of the Paris People—The Stranger Wanted, but the Stranger Staying Away—épring Costumes—The Latest Styles in Dress of All Kinds— The Foreign C:lony—Promi- nest Ladies—The Theatres. Paris, Feb, 16, 1872. Carnival is dead in France, and it is hoped no at- tempt will ever again be made to revive the defunct processions of Olympian gods (all butchers) in the annual cortége of an annual fat Apis. The bal masqué which ts always given on Shrove Tuesday at the opera took place as usual, but it was a mis- erable flasco, so far as costumes were concerned. The only appropriate idea was that of avery tall lady, who appeared in a black domino, picking her Way out among the groups by the light of a lantern whici she held up every now and then to the face of adancer. hs mysterious lemaie represented France in search of ‘aman.” Every time sbe came toa large number congregated together she showed some eagerness and hope ; but turned away de- Jected on discovering all to be harlequins or fools, Her only satisiaction was shown on coming across an Indian savage, ‘‘ile’d do,” was her remark, and thereupon she blew out the flickering wick, which had burned down to nothing, THE WEATHER had been beautiful all day, and thick crewds swayed down the Boulevards in serried, dingy lines, It has, with some truth, been remarked that the aspect of a Parisian multitude, under this pres- ent form of government, can convey no idea of What the nation was under other governments, ‘There 1s an unwashed, slovenly, listless air among the Vourgcoisie—a total disregard of gloves and clean linen, They go along like herds, ail gathering on one spot, or following in each other's footsteps, and there 18 vague indifference on the expression of the most intelligent faces, ‘Hopeless’? appears to be the order of public feeling, ANXIETY OF PARIS PEOPLE. Very bitterly do saiesmen and tradespeople now lament the abseuce of ‘es étrangers, Which means @ mine of gold to them, ‘There was a time when the fanauc of the 4th of September proposed having a law decreed to enforce that foreigners should pay @ duty for the privilege of residing within this city. How willingly now would the republicans of Paris go forth with pipe and cymbal to call the stranger 1a! but the stranger does Lot think he likes these ill-Kept streets, tnese fancy prices ; he Knows rent wiil have to ower, and Wul keep away in more avaliaole parts of France until the next chunge shail wring about some trans- formation in the nouous of ine people, Meanwhile Paris’ seamstresses and mulliners are never idle, What they do not sell at home, wuere money is rare, they sell abroad, They are in a manner born to lace and ribbon, and Know that the smallest of thelr efforts ever will outdo the heavy efforts of Berlin dressakers, A feather, a strip of velvet and a pin are all wney require to make au ill-favored head look distingué, and their magic ornaments are done in @ moment, bevween LWO peeps oUt On the street to nod at we passing “guardian of peace,’’ or the neighvorivg nairdresser’s young premier, Tne great idea ior a SPRING BONNET 1s to have one that rises in u pinnacle having a flat top (0 it, and the new jet leaf ornaments all round, Jt should atso project in front or have @ Lurned-up diadem, As Jadies will soon be Lola that jet 1s to be much worn it 1s Important to slate how—not as it has been. All the black glass that was stuck tu old tin by patches of cobbier’s wax and named Jey will be discarded. Very arustic are THE NEW DESIGNS. The preferred are teur-de-lis, worked on the material employed in small cut jet beads or bugles, Tous a black poult robe could be headed with ruches of crépe lisse, which are here and there allowed oO pult out wide and are aiternately kept down with @ large giltering fleur-de-lis, darkly lighting up the soll, Wavy iclds, Tae same trimming wouid encircle white shoulders and the top of te arm lor @ low aimner toilet. Leaves and architectural designs for headdresses are strung with jet beady on ne wire. Venetian carvings, mauresque or Moorish borders and fineiy deuted Gothic fretwork are Lue elavorate decoration for black lace hats. ‘Tne eifect 18 somewhat stilt, but the minute workmanship Will keep tt above becoming very commoa, as it 18 veLy expensive, and some of the borders 1 nave seen are as delicate as lace. EMBROIDERY is in great demand. Biack velvet jackets, without siceves, open fronts and basques, are profusely worked wita colored siiks. Square-shouldered, iow, black bodices are ali ornamented with a small bou- quet on the left side, and biock tulle chemusettes, high, with sleeves that close loosely at the wrist, are worked Witt jet 10 wear under these square, low- bosomed bodices. THE PRETTIEST BERTHAS for demi-tonet on bodices that open in front are Made of sky-blue crepe de cline with a deep Valen- cleunes lace uli round, and culls are Worn vo match, with a blue crépe de cline bow on the wrist. Biais, or crosscuts of crépe de cnine, tu all colors, are Worn with white lace on the neck and bosom. Lin- gerleis made with the floest organdi and lawn mixed also with fine muslin and fine tuen. ‘Thus a cult of Hnen would be trimmed with fat pleats of muslin instead of work or lace, the latter being reserved for Juli dress, SPRING COSTUMES. The general style of spring costume Will be sim- plicity—very elegant simpucity, however. A flue biue wovllen material, a kind of twilied serge, 1s made with a very long, elegantly draped tunte, trimmed with glaceé blue silk and Worn over a pettt- coat of the latter, Walch 18 not only Nounced, but ornamented with ruche and deep dents, besides irlils between, Loose jackets to maton are corded and made with revers, Double Capes en suite are ricaly braided, Some of these DEMI-TOILETS, made of light gray and worked over with ara- besques in braid, Were seen at the meeting lately heia for the “ransom of the territory.” As French ladies are at the head of this motion they assem. bied in lorce to debate aad hear debates ou the pros and cons of this patri- otc enterprise. There are @ great many objections. Ladies begin to comprenend that the sacrifice of their chignons, even by the kilometre “and German mule, never will pay the three mililards owing lo Prussia, ‘They perceive tuat no amount of Widows’ wedding rings and lovers’ lockets, even With their photos imsiae, Will make up the sum, and are already despondent over figures. A great deal Aas come out though, siuce they sat down seriously Ww draw up @ list of WHAT WOMEN COULD EASILY DO WITHOU ASpartan sort oi female has struck out corsets aud heels Lo one’s boots; another has proposed the abviition of paint on one’s lace; a third proposes a sumptuary law by virtue of which no lady should have more than one change ta Winter and two in summer. Tradesmen wonder how all this is going to beneflt commerce, DANCING PARTIES IN THE FORRIGN COLONY, Notwithstanding this austerity a few dancing parues have been given by tue ioreign colony here, to which many Parisian jadies were invited, Toey give dinners in their homes, wh a suire ould be considered out of time, ‘fhe most successiul style of dress Was the very pale sSicilienne with Louis XV. bodice, One of tuem was a pink, trimmed with gray featners heading a flounce ot Brassels all around, and te bodice Was made with @ jockey, over a poul, in and out of waich streamed a wile failie gray riboon. Ali the newest roves are of two distinct shades. The neutral tints so much thoagit of afew weeks ago are really not becoming under gashgat; a decided violet, an carnest biue, biusaiog rove trimmed with faille in tue new tints are much preferable to full dresses of those very half aud hall hues, HE BEST THING TO PURCHASE just now is geivet; veivet by ali means, and ony- how. Jt will be worn over muslin and musiin will ve worn over it. It will be used as trimming avd make-up ali summer. Another innovation ior the theatre and private parties ts the mixture of silk, muslin and meriuo, Pale mauve merino tunics are irunmed all round with @ fall of piaited fiaity mus- lin, and the boaice (square) to match 1s made of the same. The under petiicoat to this 1s mauve silk, Iritied up to the Knees; in the hair @ branca of lilac, ‘Tho same style in ali the palest Colors is very tash- jonavie. Care must be ovserved Li selecting a proper flonu 4 la paysanne or dla Dubarry to Wis, Certatuly nothing can, be muder, more inexpensive or be- comiag. THE PRINCESSES OF ORLEANS being the most conspicuoua amoug sadies in Parts, their ature is always studied, and here the Marie Antomette headdress and style prevail, At their family reapious the dance most in vogue is ‘Le galop 41a Couronne,” {here has been a little inoffensive sport at Chanully, where the Duke d'Aumaie’s hounds have Met several umes, but old “se? amoug Sports tuen have been enjoying pigeon slootiag at Nice, They would enjoy Lhe away Jrom proximity to Versailles, Madame de Metternicn’s return to Paris 1s looked forward to with hope. On her rests all Joyiul auticipations of animated high iife, She has also quieted down to fresco unts, for her couturier Having sGut her tWo gale tiled has had them Kee » NEW YORK HERALD, SUNDAY, MARCH 3, 1872—TRIPLE SHEET. | turned with a note to say the Princess woud prefer something calmer, THE THEATRES, ‘There 1s little fun at the theatres, if] except the Vaudeville, where it 18 well to go With @ skull-cap on for the ‘preservation of one’s brains. Radicals ‘and conservatives generally come to blows before the performance 1s over, and woe petide the spec- tator who happens to have a seat between these two extreme political persuasions, When “Rabagas” 18 on the bill it is as Well not to go to the Vaudeville; jor, independently of sword sticks and leaden knobs, the spectators have ot into a way there of applauding by cleaning with one hand on their neighbors’ backs, in order to hold on ught to their places With the other, It 18 hoped Sardou’s next piece will not be @ political one, for there 1s no enjoying him under such dificuliies and dispensa- tions, We are in expectancy of the same vicissitudes when “Ruy Blas” comes out at the Odeon, Victor Hugo superintends the rehearsals himself, A great success 18 prognosucated, aod it may prove @ balm to the author’s Incommensurable Vanity, which has been so severely wounded by huis signal failure as & statesman and politician. MUNICIPAL AS FAIRS, The Creton and Dock Bonds. ‘The Sinktog Fund Commission will make arrange- ments for taking all the above bonds, at present re- quired, proposals for which were to have been opened yesterday. Commissioner Van Nort and the Gas Com- pani At the consultation yesterday between Commis- sioner Van Nort and the representatives of tne several gas light compantes of the city there were present :-The Presidents of the Metropolitan and the New York Mutual Gas Light Companies, The representatives of three companies were not pre- sent owing to prior engagements. Those present evinced @ desire to meet the views of the Commission as far as possible. The Commission submitted for consideration a statement of the cost of lighting each of the public lamps per annuum, as follows: New York Gas Light Company, $45; Manhattan, $53; Metropolitan, $5287; Harlem $53—whicn in- cludes the expense of lighting, cleaning, extinguish- ing and repiacing the broken glass, the city fur- nishing the glass to each company for this purpose, ‘This gives an average cust of $00 25 for each lignt per annum, of which there were on January 1, 18,161, making an aggregate cost of $912,038 for lighting the city. this must added tne Meee of replacing, fesetting, con- necting and fitting old and new lamp posts, Kach lamp burns per year 3,833; hours, consuming per hour 3 cubic feet; total number of cubic feet ot gas for each lamp per annum 18 11,600; price per cubic foot, $3; total amount i charged per 1,000 feet, $34 60; add for liguting and extinguishing each lamp, say $4 50; total for each lamp, 339, ‘These prices indicate that the sum of $45 paid the New York Gas Light Company would seem to bea large price per each hght, which 1s tne lowest of all the companies, / /oxRIBALDI AND THE INTERNATIONAL. / ‘The following letter has been received by Section 35, meeting in Spring street, of “L’ Internationale,” from General Garibaldi, This sets at rest the oft- repeated statement that Garibaldi was not a mem- ber or favorable to “L’ internationale.” CAPRERA, Feb. 6, 1872. My DEAR FrIENDS—Please accept my thanks for the conferment of the title of honorary member of Section 35 of the International Workimgmen’s As- sociation, Ever yours, GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI. To Section 35, I. W. A., New York, SHIPPING NEWS. 6 81 | Moon rises..morn 1 52 554 High water...eve 247 OCEAN STEAMERS. DATES OF DEPARTURE FROM NEW YORK FOR THE MONTH OF MARCH, Sails Sun rises... Sun sets... 7 Bowing Green 15 Broadway. 29 Broadway. Broadway. PORT OF NEW YORK, MARCH 2, 1872. City of Brooklyn [Mar Wyoming. +|Mar 1 City of Pari CLEARED. Steamship City of Merida, Deaken, Vera Cruz and Pro- greso via Havana—F Alexandre & Soi Steamship Wilmington, Holmes, Gal CH Mallory & Co, Steamship United States, Crowell, New Orleans—Frederic aker. Stexinship Geo Cromwell, Clapo, New Orleans—H B Crom- well & Co. Steamship Merceaita, Marshman, Fernandina—James ton via Key West— Hand. Steamship Montgomery, Faircloth, Savannah—R Lowden. nbleamabip Ban Salvador, Nickerson, Savannah—W EB Gar- ison. odieamsbip Georgia, Crowell Uharleston—H R Morgan & Da P eciatd Metropolis, Castner, Wilmington, NC—wunt Steamship Regulator, Freeman, Wilmington, NC--Lorillard Steamship Co. Steamship Geo B Upton, Roberts, Norfolk, City Point and Richmond—Wasnington & Co. Wyanoke, Couch, Richmond, 4c—Old Domin- ship Ce. mship E © Knight, Johnson, Georgetown, DC—G B Philaae!phia—Loriliard Steams! TN) WC Steamship Neptune. Baker. Boston—H F Dimock. Steamship Acushnet, Rector, New Bedford—Ferguson & ‘ood Bark Lavenga Secondo (Ital), Caucci, Antwerp—A P ta. Bark Aberdeen, Treat, Cardenas—Walsn, Field & Way. Bark New York, Gibbs, Cardenas—Borland, Dearborn & 0. Brig Paquette de Nuova York (Port), Da Cunha, Oporto— Hagemeyer & Brunn, Brig Annie 8 (Br), Jackson, Cape Town, CUH—Tetens & Bockmann, Rrig Salinas (Br), Lind, Para—L E Amainck & Co. Brig Mary M Williams (Br), Fickett, Arroyo, PR—James Bevetactor, Jones, 0. Al Henry. Schr Chat E Moody, Abbott, Maranham aud a market— BJ Wenber Sehr Ciara E McConville, Eaton, Granada—B J Wenberg, 8 Schr Charles G Warren, Smith, St Kitts—B J Wenberg. Schr Rebecca Ann, Florian, Aux Cayes—Miller & Hough- ton. '* an GF Day (Br), McBride, Lockport, NS—D R De Wolf 10. Schr Malanta (Br), Hunter, Halifax, NS~—Crandall, Ber- teaux & Co. Se? Guy R Phelps, Shailer, Savannah—Bentley, Miller & 0. Schr Tona, Kendall, Charleston—H W Loud & Co, Schr Anna Sheppard, Newton, Charleston—Bentley, Miller Co, Sehr Marv Louisa, Gaskill, Washington, NC—Z Mills, Sehr Breeze, Cramer, Washington, DC—Van Brunt & Bro, Schr Horatio Nichols, Dupuy, Alexandria—Van Brunt & ro. Schr Alabama. Churchill, Chester—Overton & Hawkins, Sebr Carrie S Doyle, Whitman, Gloucester—R J Godwin & Son. 8 Schr Elisha Crowell, Penticost, Gloucester—R J Godwin & ion. + Schr Charlie & Willfe, Cousins, Lynn, Schr James P Fisher, Jr, Wing, Chatham—J E Stetson. nr M E Hearn, Morrill, Stamford, ‘chr UC Acken, Mead, Stam! ora. Steamer Octarora, Reynolas, Philadelphia, ARRIVALS. REPORTED BY THE HERALD STEAM YACHTS Steamship France (Br), ‘Thoma, Liverpool Fob 14 and Queenstown 16th, with maso and 178 passengers, to F WJ rat Steamanip James Adger, Lockwood, Charleston Feb 28, with mdse and passengers, to H R Morgan & Co. Ship Mikado (3: ibery, Yokohama, Nov 18, with teas, to Heinemann, Payson & Morgan. Passed Angier Dec 9; Cape of Good Hope, Jan 9, and crossed the equator Feb 4, in lon 8816; had fresh NK traces, with fine weather, to lat N; from thence strong N W winds; been 7 days N of Cape Hatteras. Dee 9, off Anjier, svoke bark Alumaia (Br), from Manila for Boston, 16 days out. Ship R H Warren (Br), Woodbury, Calcutta, Oct 27, with mdse, toC P Sumner. Passed Cape of Good Hope Dec 26, St Helena Jan Ul, and crossed the Equator Jan 27 in lon nad moderate weather to Bermuda, from thence 12 day with very rough weather; Dec 29, lat2i 07 S, lon 68 22 £, spoke ship Wm Knum(riens (NG), from Batavia for Rotter- dam ; 50th, iat 21 37 8, lon 66 67 E, bark Cameo (Br), from Moulmata for Greenock, 41 days Jan 6, lat 23 528, lon 56 04 &, bark Moss Rose (Br, from Rangoon for Queens- town, BH anys out; oth, Int 25 44 8, lon 61 U8 E, ship Cutwater from’ Penang for London, 63 days out; Feb 19, lat 38 27 N, Jon #8 48 W, schr Oriole, of Boston, bound south. Ship Zouave, Swain, Hoxton 6 days, in ballast, to Vernon H Brown & Is anchored in the lower bay. Passed Through Hell Gate. BOUND SOUT. Schr R.A Ford (Br), Carpenter, St John, NB, 20 days, for New York, witn lumber to 1 Nevius & Sons. Scer Terrapin, Wooster, Providence for New York, in bal- last to ed Frye & Schr Mary & Reeves, Maloney, Newport for New York, 10 baliast to Jed Frye & Co. BOUND EAST, Steamanin Neptune. Baker. New York for Boston. Steamsbie Acushnet. Rector, New York for New Bedford. SAILED. Steamshipa Haltle, for Liverpool The Queen, do: City ef Montreal, do; Helvetia, London; Trinacria, Ginagow ; Main, Bremen; City of Merida, Havana; Wilmington, Key West ‘and Galveston; Caited States, New Orieans; George Crom- well, do; Mercedita, Fernandina: Sau Salvador, Savannah ; Montgowvery, dos Georgia, © Kexuiator, Wilming- ton, NC; Metropolis, a Richmond, 40; 0 Knigbt, Georgetown, DC. The Herald Almanac, ‘To the Mariner, no matter from what port he hails or where bound—whether navigating mid-ocean or entering home or toreign port—the Herald Almanac will prove a safe and unerring guide to avoid all recently discovered and re- ported dangers. Under the head of “Mariner's Guide” is collated the “Notices to Mariners” jssued during the year 1871 from the Trinity House, Admiralty, London; the Hy- drographic Odice, Washington, and the various Navigation Boards throughout the world, specially published in the Herdid, from whose columns the “Guide” has been com- piled. The warnings, directions and information therein contained will make the Herala Almanac almost as indispen- sable 10 the plict aud she maringr as tne abart, the pextant 4nd the compass. In addition to this invaluable guide, and heading itin the order of its own peculiar usefulness, is given well cut diagrams of the weather signals adopted by the government at Washington for the benefit of our mer chant manne and naval service, with explanations of the same, The information thus imparted renders the Herald Almanac a necessity in the hands of mariners at sea, on Fiver or lake embraced within the American Continent, Price 25 cents, at which price it is forwarded tree by mai! to all parts of the United States. Shipping Notes. Bark Over Burgermeister Yon Winter (NG), 532 tons, was floated out of the Erie Basin dry dock at Red Hoox yester- day, after having been thoroughly refastened, calked and generally everhanied, Messrs O'Connell & Co's Erie Basin sectional dock at Red ‘Hook has had up the past week schr Annie Bavard (Br), 205 tons, for calking and painting; schr Lucy Lee, 150 tons, re- pairing foretoot, and brig John McDonald (Br), 241 tons, for calking and painting, ‘The little ferryboat Brookhaven, now being finished for the ‘Messrs Lorillard, and desiyned to eross the Sound between Bridgeport and Port Jefferson, LI, was on the central screw dock foot of Market street on Wednesday last, adjusting wheel and painting bottom, Her place is now occupied by sobr AM Dickinson, 155 tons, to receive a suit of yellow metal sheathing. ‘Tugboat Frank Pidgeon, Jr, was lowered from the small screw dock adjoining on Friday, after slight repairs. Steamboat J B Schuyler, of the Bridgeport line, was low- ered from the balance dock foot ot Pike street on Monday, after patching copper. She was followed by bark Henry Buck, 684 tons, of Searsport, Me, to be stripped, calked and remetalled. She was lowered on Friday. Ship Colorado, 1075 tona, recently purchased by pasties in New Haven, was lowered from the large balance dock ad- joming on Thursday, atter having been stripped, calked and remetalled. Her place is now occupied by sup Bridgewater, 1666 tons, owned by Messrs Williams & Guion, to patch her metal. Steamer Wilmington, 825 tons, of the Galveston line, was lowered from the large sectional dock foot of Rutgers street on Tuesday, aftcr having bottom painted, ‘The same dock now has up, ready for lowering, ship City of Montreal, 1159 tons, owned by Messrs Thomas Dunham's Nephew & Co, having been stripped, calked and remetalled. From the small dock adjoining brig LM Merritt, 866 tons, of Bucksport, Me, was lowered on Thursday, after patching metal, Brig N Stowers, 244 tons, of Prospect, Me, now occupies the place of the above, being stripped, calked and remet- ailed. Stoamer Equator, 1044 tons, of Messrs C H Mallory & Co's line, 18 on the sectional dock foot of Clinton street, receiving anew wheel, Steamboat C Vanderbilt stiil remains on the mammoth sectional dock at Hoboken, putting iu a new bottom. ‘Tughoat AB Preston is on Messra Merritt & Sparks’ dry dock, foot of Gouverneur street, putting in a new shaft, ‘The bark Libertas, which was aground at pier No 2 East River, succeeded in getting away at high water yesterday from the pier, with the assistance of tugs, without taking out any of her cargo, as was supposed. The two largest merchant vessels in the American fleet are now on their way from California to Europe One of them, the new ship Glory of the Seas, of Boston, 2109 tons, has Tecently sailed from the Golden Gate, having on board one of the largest grain cargoes ever shipped, 3000 tons wheat, at £2126, which wili pay very handsomely; and the ship Baltic, 2552 tons (formerty the steamship of that name), now owned by Isaac Taylor, bas a full cargo from San Francisco (Név 32) for Valencia. Aavices from San Francisco to Feb 2% state that ten million feet of lumber (including ratlroad ties) are offered from Puget Sound and San Francisco for Chile and Peru, and that $24 gold has been paid to Callao direct, $27 60 for South America (three ports, Callao, Chile, 40), and $14 gold now offered from San Francisco to Callao direct, or $5 above the price last year: £2 10 was the latest rate for cork, In smaller vessels, on the Atlantic, there has been some activity during the last month or two, and a strong disposition is now shown to built three-masted, light draft schooners, of good breadth of beam—the high rates for coal which receutly ruled from Baltimore to the North §4 per ton, now lower)—having » stimulating effect, Marine Disasters. US REVENUE STEAMER SEWARD, Carson, reports that while on a cruise off the coast of North Carolina, February 27, saw a boat with six men, searching tor the wreck of the schr Jowa, of Wilmington, NC, took the boat in tow and steamed to the southward. The boat contained Capt NB Morse of the lowa, who reported that at 10:30 AM on the 26th, when about 10 miles SE of Little River the vessel sprung a leak, filled and fell on her beam ends, ‘The schr’s boat being too small to save all who were on board (eight including alady passenger). The Captain, two of the crew and pas- senger went on shore at Little River for assatance, he ob- tained a larger boat, also three men and immediately re- turned to search for the wreck, but without success. Atter several hours steaming the wreck was found about %0 miles off shore and her crew rescued trom a watery grave. ‘The Seward took the wreck in tow, and succeeded the next day in grounding het on Little River bar, where Capt Morse thinks she may be righted, pumped out and repaired. ‘The Iowa is owned In Wilmington and had a cargo of turpentine, cotton and rosin. Suir Norway, Woodbury, from Guanape for Hamburg, before reported, put into Valparaiso Jun 26, was in distress, Capt Woodbury reports—Jan 9 had strong winde, with heary swell from SW, abip rolling heavily and_making more water than usual; on'the 17th, lat 498, lon 84 W, bad a heavy blow hip under short sail, with a heavy cross sea run- jaboring and straining, with leak Increasing, en- er minute, and working ree pumps; found the water gaining at the rate of two inches por hour: kept the ship off and ran to the North ; con. tinued running tothe North, and for two days there was no perceptible decrease in the leak ;engine going all the time And working two pumps; onthe 2th engine. broke down, and was unable to repair it; pnt the crew to the pumps, an worked day and night until arrival at Valparaiso‘on the 26th, when the ship was making six inches per hour in still water. Bria PeNauin, Wehrmanot, from St Thomas Jan 20 f Havana, in ballast, was wrecked night of Slat, at Ensenada, Honda, near Bunes, Cuba. The crew were saved, and ar rived at Gibara, except two men who are said to be lost In the woods. The captain attributes the disaster to strong cur- rents and northers and to his ignorance of the lights at Maisi and Lucretia being in operation. The vessel {1 masted and lying on her port side. H were taken away by a band « crew thelr clothing and othe captain and crew are. detained investigate the truth of the case, Brig CLKO (Br), Corbett, from Wilmington, NC, Feb for Queenstown, has been wrecked inside ss outer bar rd the mouth of the Cape Fear River. She was loaded with 1300 bbls turpeutine. The vessel will prove a totai Joss, but the cargo will be saved. Sone CALISTA, Spear, of Rockland, Me, went ashore on the rocks near Palmer's Quarry, Vinalhaven, Monday mght Captain Spear and three men were in the boat, ndin running the anchor it cvught and upset the boat, which sunk, with the anchor to the bottom, leaving the four men in the water, The night was bitterly cold, and no human hep was near. Captain Spear, encouraging hia men to make the best struggle they could for life, struck out for the shore, Look- ing back to urge his men onward, he saw the head of one of. the swimmers droop, as if tue man had lost the power of further effort. The capiain reached the shore, and his two men, in an exhausted condition, also reached ‘and crawled upon the rocks. The third man, Captain Isaac A Hix, of South Thomaston, was missing, and Captain Spear, after ob- tainin, tance, returned to the scene of disaster and dis- covered and secured his lifeless body. Captain Hix was about 48 years of age, and jeaves a family in South Thomas- ton, He was « brother of Mr O P Hix, of Rockland, and was & much esteemed and worthy citizen, Sonn Cona ErrA, Sleeper at Philadelphia from Cardenas, had rough woatner, NW and W gales the entire passage. On ‘unday hight, 2th, off the Capes, during a NW gale, split foresall and lost forestayeail. ’ cide DAMAGE BY Fine.—During the burning of Bradley's steam saw mill, at the Eastern wharf, Savannab, on th night of Feb 24. the following vessels, lying at the wharf, were damaged before they could be got clear, Schr Eagle ost three Jibs, forestayeail, and had her. Jibboom badly scorched. “Schr Carrie Heyer lost her maingafftopsall, and mainboom topping lift, and sebr Mary & Eliza lost her outer $b ite Mary Eliz was being loaded at the mill, for rovidence atthe time, and the order was nearly finished ; having 60,000 feet on board, enough was saved to complete the order—150,000 feet. The Engle, for Philadephia, had also an order for the same quantity, and had received 20,000 ning, and gine golng, makine 56 revolutions 8, Ww! ods belonging tothem. Th: by the authorities, who will TOTAL DISASTERS IN RUARY—The number of vea- gels belonging to or bound to or from ports in the United States, reported totally lost or missing during the past month in 30, of which 12 were wrecked, 6 abandoned, 2 burned, 3 Toundered, and 7 are missing. “‘Tiiey are ciasted'as follows |— 8 steamers, 5 ships, 6 barks, 6 brigs and 10 schooners, and their total estimated value, exclusive of cargoes, is $1,280,000. Norwion, Feb %8—Scbr Lizzie W Hannum went on a mud bank on Monday, and remained there till ‘uesday afternoon, The State of New York, in passing, struck her and carried away her jibboom. PorTsMourTH, NH, March 1—The schr Ameli tand, is ashore fa this harbor, and is badly dama, cargo of lime may be saved, SAVANNAH, March 2-—There was a severe rain and wind storm last night. Two ships, two barks and five schooners were driven irom their moorings. The damage done was very sifght, except to the ng machine on the Baltimore steamer whar!, which was totally destroyed, Miscelaneons. Purser Jas 8 Wertendorff, of the steamship James Adger, from Charleston, has our thanks for favors. SUIPBUIDING—A first class three-masted schooner of about 600 tona capacity, is now being built at Duxdury, Mara, to be completed about August 1, for Captain James H Rich, tate master of schr Addie Walton. Messrs Atkinson & Filmore, Newburyport, are getting out the frame of a three-masted chr to be bulit at their yard. She will be between 400 and 500 tons burden, spoken. Ship Charles 1 Marshall, Marshall, from Liverpool for New York, Feo 12, lat 51, lon 18. Ship Strathearn (Br), Jarman, from Liverpoo! for New York, Feb 11, lat St, lon 23, Bark Lizzie Gillexpic, Wilson, Buenon Ayres, Jan town irom Vaipai from Bordeaux Dee 4 for no lat, €c' (by the Santon, at Queens- 180. Notice to Mariners. MEDITERRANEAN —ADRIATIO—CHERSO 181.4ND—FIXED AND FLASHING LIGHT ON POUNT PRESTENISOR. The Italian government has given notice that a light is now exhibited from a lighthouse recentiy erected on Polut Preste- nisce, Cherso Island, Guif of Quarnero, The hight w a tixed white ight, showing a red (ash every three minutes, elevate. 06 feec above the level of the sea, and should be seen in clear weather from a distance of 11 miles, “The illuminating apparatus is dioptric or by of the fifth order, Yoaltion, lat 45 0715 N, lon 14 16 90 E. ITALY—FABT COAST” FIXED LIGHT ON ORTONA MOLE. Also that a light 18 now exhibited trom the new Mole in the harbor of Ortona, and the lignt on the old Mole has been dis- continued. ‘The new light ts a fixed white light, elevated 36 feet above the ‘yea, and Jn clear weather should be seen a distance of 7 miler, ‘The itiuminating apparatus is catoptric. ‘The new light w intended to mark the entrance of the bar- bor and the Mole in course ot construction ; it stands 27 yarus from the extremity. Votition, lat 43 19 45 N, lon 14 94 40 B. SOUTH AUSTRALIA—REVoLVING LiGuT OFF Carr JAFFA.—The Colonial government of South Australia bas given notice that from the Ist day of February, fo Might Wil be exhibited fromm screw pile lighthouse ‘recently erected on the reef off Cape Jaffa, ‘The light aa tevolving: white light, eclipsed every belt minute, elevated 100 feet above the level of the Kea, aad in clear weather should be seen from a distance of 16 miles, arene iitumninsting apparatas is dioptric or by lenses od rat order, ‘The lighthouse ta built of irom, Position lat 86 deg So min 8, Jaw il dow 86 ur Ky KIEL LIGHTS AT SANDPIT. ‘The North German governmept has given notice that two ghia are now oxuiited from ‘at Sundolt, on the eastern of Kiel Fiord, opposite the town at: |, for the of facilitating the navigutiou of the Inner portion of the are fixed red ta, bearing NE and SW from distant 78 eda ob inner, or SW, Tag, te ele- feet and the r, or NE light 16 teet above the sea, a they should be seen trom a distance of five miles. + ‘epparatus is catoptric or by reflectors. of tana ine will lead over the four-fathom shoal Grith stall ae cecaulerbeck, and which is marked by # bury; NORTH BEA—ELBE RIVER—AUTERATION IN GLUCEST, Liem, Also that the onenrtag, slteration has been, made in tae it Moor he. Fonaare of ai e catroptrle I tuealae ght of thetasth enter replaced by a dioptrie oF len- is a fixed white |j tween the earings of Si oe eon geass ae te 24 yards Inside the former Retro peainted white, and stands N, long 9 deg 4 min 80sec Tat 63° deg 47 min HOLLAND—GOEREE ISLAND. -ALTRRATION BEN ‘The Netherlands govern thes eee ment Rotice thes the fol- lowing alteration fas been, made fa’ Steseuge eet northeast of (oeree Taland ia pi ulate fhe ight. now shows ween the bearing SSI (east- erly) and 8% W, or beween the Black Sipkrat ant the White Buoy Nolin the Bokkegae? + 2 the [al bearinys are magnetic, Variations—Klel M4 degs, Ghickstadt 16:4 degs, westerly in 1872] Foreign Ports. BUENOS Ayues, Jan 20—Sailed previous, barks Philena, 5 Chase, and Tatay, Morse, Boston: Sanfc and Mi A Matahall, Wrizht, New Yorn... ‘nied ion BERMUDA, Feb 13—Arrived, bark Eliza Barss (Br)y Vesey, Fe Made the land 14th and 15th, brig Richt id, Pe schr Ferdaues Ketsou, from Hew York: aed waco deieea ieee ward by a he The Richmond had a pilot on ale. board; they wore joked for night of 17th. Cane Feh 10—Sailed, ship St ware, ge he, aeneeees for In port Feb 18, snips Carrier Dove, iHlones, tolond guano for London; Geo M Adama, Mansons for Guest nape, to load for Continent between Hamburg and Nantes; Win Woodbury, Harriman, une} barks. Victoria (Br), Wile Nams, for Tquique, to load nitrate for New York. Ship Argoay, Tinkham, to arrive, had been chartered to \ooe aemne tor the Continent, between ant At Guanape Feb 10, shins Blue Jacket, for Europe, about loaded; Majestic, Gibbons, for United King- dom, do; Ellen Austin, French, and St James, Black, for Germany’ ldg. HAVRE, March 1—Sailed, steamship Humboldt (NG), Ba- randon, New York, HALIFAX, Feb $9—Sailed (PM), steamship Sidonta (Br), Ovenstone (trom Marscilles, &c), New York. 1QUIQUR, Jan 27—In port sbip Gentoo, Linnell, for New York; bark Penang (Br), for do. MESSINA, Feb 10—Sailed, brige Clara Pickens. Rogers, New York ;’ Mars (Nor), Rasmussen, Baltimore, MARSKILLES, Feb 14—Salled, brig Teneriife, Tracey, Ha- ni vana. PANAMA, Jan 19—In port ship Uncle Toby, Drinkwater, une, Port AU PRINCE, Feb 9—In port brig Jane, Allen, from Boston, disg. Rio GRANDE, Dec 81—Arrived, briga Adolphe & Laura (NG), Lecontenr, Richmond, Va;’ Jan 7. Flora (NG), Han- sen, New York, Si Mano, Fgb 5—In port schr Emeline (Br), Horton, from and for Bottom, ready. St JouN, NB, Feb 20—Arrived, bark Silver Cloud (Br), Taylor, Philadelphia. VALPARAISO, Jan 26—Sailed, barks Corsair (Br) for Royal Minstrel (Br), Iquique to load for New York; 80th, for do, to load for Philadelphia. In port Feb 2, ships Independence, Strout, for Boston, to load guano on the coast on owners’ acconut; Transit, Percy, trom Hamburg, atrived Jan 18, ta load as Vand San Anto- nio for Antwerp; Norway, Woodbury, from Guanape for Hamburg, in distress; Helen Morris, Nott, for Talcubuano. Americaa Ports. BOSTON, March 1—Arrived,’ steamer Glaveus, Waldemy New York; schrs Cora Morrison, Barnard; Addie F Cole, Cole; Freddie W Alton, Doane, and M Steele, Higgins Tangier, Va; HW Piefoe, Pierce: lnabel Piero, and ‘ugene Rich, Pierce, Yeoinic Ship Sarah Hignett, Burwell, St John, NB; bark C 8S Rog ickson, Matanz! schrs Frances Edi Wem, New York; also cleared, Br bark Fraucts Milley, Fols- ter, London; brig David Bugbee, Stevens, lenas; schrs see eae enor Slit, Willan, New York arse, Baltimore ; Jessie B Smith, 5 Sailed—Wind NNW to NW, barks M B Stetson, 0 8 and Fleetwin, BEVERLY: Feb 90—Sailed, schr H Simmons, Godfrey, Philadelphia. CHARLESTON, Feb 28—Arrived, schr Lucy D, Hall, Bos- n. Gieared-—Schra, J ‘Truman, Cinby Attakapas; Julla, (Br, McDonald, West Indies; Carrie H Woodbury, Woodbury, New York’via Brunswick, Ga, March 2.-Sailed, steamship Champion, Lockwood, New York. net WEST, Feb 15—Arrived, schr Meteor, Williaus, New ‘(9th—Satled, ship India (Br), Cummings from Pensacola), Liverpool. NEW ORLEANS, Feb 26—Arrived, steamship Koln Xo, Francke, Bremen, via Havre, Santander and Havana; barks Virtuosa (Sp), Mestre, Havana; Pauline (Br), Drevar, Gal- veston; Sebastian Guma (Sp), Salon, Havana; brig Hart, Havana: schra Life Boat, Thompson, Belize, Hon; Matue A Franklin, Purvis, Boston. Cleared—ships Carl (Ger), Otten, Bremen; Maud (Br), Smith, Liverpool; Lemington (Br), Bell, do. Souruwsst Pass, Feo 26—The ship Mount Royal, Cap- tain Wilmarth, from Cai: with machinery, bound to l- jchored outsiue the bar. rks Venus and Queen; brigs Marcelina and 140 ship Leone and bark Duchess of Lancaster. EDFORD, Feb 29—Salled, achrs Niger, ‘Thompaon, Ist, Laura Robinson, Robinson, and Lady Suf- NOW B folk, Armstrong, do. NEWPORT, ¥eb 29, PM—Arrived, schra D L_ Sturgis, Chase, New ‘Bedford tor New York; Huntress, Sprague; Hampton, Fletcher, and Dr Franklin, Smith, Providence for do: 1 H Borden, Hadwin, Fall River for do; Ann Elizabeth, Kelley, and J G Hamblin, Eldridge, Harwich for do; Sar- dinian, Lincoln, and Samuel Carlton, Burke, Providence for do; G'8 Markle, Bishop, and Harriet Lewis, Taylor, do for New York; Flignt, Chase, Cohasset Narrows for ; Bh old, Warren for do. rn Te Maret Nha, achr Abigail Haynes, J H Burnett, Wind NW? blowing trea mn owing {re PHILA fas Mi brig Geo E Dale, ckiman, Boston. h 1! PR; schr Sarah Wooa, H thrs Richard Vaux, red, Pecora, Carl, Greenwich, Del, Chas A Grainer, Harvey, Eliz abethport ; Joseph W ery Port Johnson; Susan & Mary, Kenyon, Hoboken. Satled—Schra George 8 Fogg, Newcomb, Nats remned EB Wharton, James, Philadelphia; Benj Strong, Gulliver; Ann Dole, Bunce; Franklin Pierce, Filandon, and Henry ‘Cole, Brown, New York. RICHMOND, Feb 29—Arrived, steamers Tease Bell, Blake- man, New York ; W P Clyde, Scott, do: schraJ'8 Ives, May, New York; Furotos, Acey, do. Sailed—Schrs Seventy-Six, Teal, Richmond Me, via lower Sames; Lotta, Sumners, New York via Drewry’s ‘Bluff, SAN FRANCISCG. Feb 23—Arrived, ship Fiying Eagle, ‘e" jJewcastle, Created "Shipa Frolic, Bush, and Semiramis, Gerrish, New- castle, . ‘Sailed—sbip Revere, McIntyre, Port Discovery. SAVANNAH, March 2—Arrivet, steamships Huntsville, Crowell, and Magnolia, Palmer, New York, WICKFORD, Feb 29—Sailed, schr Rabhel ee) Taylor, New York, having wintered here. Also schre J H Youmans, Cook, and Ell Townsend, Nichols, for New York, both hav- ing made a harbor here to favorable win _____ MISCELUANXOUS. —THE HERALD cities ° an: NCIAL, COMMERCIAL AND POLITICAL REGIS- mae TER FOR 1872, THIRD EDITION NOW OUT. UNPRECEDENTED POPULARITY AND SUCCESS, EAD, READ READ TH HERALD ALMANAC Price 96 cents. for 1872. For Missing Heirs, Mariners’ Guide, Weather Signals, prominent Events, Political, Reference, #nancial ‘Stattaticss Herald Livingstone Expedition Letter, Daily Quotations in Gold and Railroad Securities, Presidents and their Cabinets from the formation of the Government, Am Wars and their Cost, Census Returns for 1870, by States and Counties, compared with 1860; Populations of ere Cities, Agri- cultural Exhibits, Imports and Exports of the United States, el f all the (iovernment artment in. Great’ Britain and Ireland, Chronology and Necrology, Astronomical and Mean Time Tables, Returns by States and Counties, with the Presidential Vote for 1868; the Prosucts of the Different States of the Union, ‘with the Aggregate Value per Acre; the Live Stock Produce of the United States. with Apgreeate Vaiue per State; Gov- ernors and State Ollicers ; Sub-Trrasuries, Mints and United States Depositories ; Foreign Governments, Rulers, &. ; Col- loctora of Porta and Navy Oflcers,, Poiltical Biatus of ‘all the Legislatures, Sketches of the Members of the nate and House of Representatives, American Ministers Abroad, Foreign Ministers and Consuls to the United States, Admirals jn the Navy and Generals in the Army, Law Intelligence— ‘Times and Places ot Holding Courts, te. All this varied information is contained in THE HERALD ALMANAC FOR 1872. 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