New Britain Herald Newspaper, February 14, 1919, Page 13

NEW PARIS MODES FORECAS™ ot and matchi the rumor 1k Brandt made the . comps embroidery, done in blue navy By Edith M. Burtis ns are always inter- particularly vear war being over, the de- signers of Paris are exerting every effort to create be And utiful things. wonderful results are sure to for the spirit of the French revealed in all their ordeal suffering, permits them, noi, that and plenty are the promises on des, to express the joy and thank- e that are in their hearts, and find their best expression in the creation of things beautiful. This is our gain to a tremendous extent, for the clever men and women who go to Paris to buy new fashions follow, Frn its marvelous courage during of war and peace all s they for us always return not only laden with beautiful apparel for their shops, but with wonderful ideas that can be converted into apparel in this country and with enthusiasm that carries with it not only successful selling, but successful service for the customer. And, after all, this matter of service is the biggest part of the business of making and selling clothes. This thought on service embraces more than a practical idea of dura- hility, for the right clothes spell suc- cess and successful service by the happiness and pleasure they create because of their beauty and the beauty they develop or enhance in the wearer. I have scen many new fashions from Paris. and yet it is difficult to tell you at this writing of any one definite an Paris Fashion Nofes PM:I.\‘ is ablaze with color—color in women's apparel—particularly in the elaborate evening gowns that are being worn Rich, generously patterned capes of luxurious furs are used for wraps for wear by women of fashion. chinchilla, sable and ermine most favored furs for this evening Mink are the tuse Chinegse and Egyptian motifs and colorings have influenced the de- aind manufacturers of French and it is easy to imagine the these fabrics long before the opportunity to behold signer silks beauty of one has them For evening wear, cloth of gold and of silver are used extensively, sometimes in combination with other fabrics, but as often without a com- b tion, for metal lace or bro- cade ribbon Some of the most beau- tiful of the metal fabrics are in color with red, turquoise blue save combinations and jade green. From Guy comes a long front and back poke shape that is always .n interesting millinery fashion, th never likely to be extensively popular, because this extreme shape is not generally becoming. short 4 A sort ot Directoire shape done in satin is a new millinery model put out by Talbot, the crowns of which are though somewhat head these size, than the are soft. medium larger size; crowns For afternoon wear, dresses on the chemise or semifitted lines are an sured fashion for Paris. if the word ortih while These dresses are simple, and hang in loose lUnes from the shoulders, o? a big but are belted with girdles or sashes, though not tightly enough to show the figure to any extent, There is a gr on many French at deal of embroidery hats. One lovely example of this fashion is a small model of black satin embroidered in gold thread and French blue em- broidery ribbon. Report has it that all Paris is agreed upon the vogue of capes and cape- like coats for spring; but not every American girl or woman knows how to wear a cape to the best advantage. Jet and flowers and ostrich are among the most favored hat trimming advanced by the Paris designers for spring millinery. It is not to be wondered that French blue—the soft lovely blue that com- bines so smartly and artistically with black—is an accepted spring color. The spirit of victory, peace and the promise of plenty is portrayed in many of the season’s models, both in apparel and millinery. This spirit is expressed by color, by fabric, by line and by ornamentation. Silver wheat, the symbol of plenty, on a stunning black hat of Directoire shaping is one example of this idea The gown of the hour in Paris is un- questionably the restaurant gown, and many and wonderful are the elab- orate and rich models that are thus classified. shades of mahogany and are to be found in Paris designed by the best milll- Varying carnation millinery ners. with turn evidence in High squa 2 up brims are much in French millinery for spring. crowns ilk gabardine. Turban model of a novelty straw in navy blue, its graceful trim- ming of a unique double wing Copyright. 1919 with 2, @ 2 chiffon is the simple suspender-like frock made by Jenny, and giving “leeves that do mot cover the elbow are a definite spring fashion nion frock, which is of a lighter blue, is the efiective trimming, making an unusual model Venetian feature that is likely to overshadow all other features of new clothes unless it be the appearance of slimness, pro- duced by straight lines on which most garments are developed In this respect the one-piece chemise dre: s conspicuous by its many repe- titions. These dresses hang straight from the shoulder, but are loosely belted about the waist, either by a nar- row sash or girdle. Such a dress is illustrated in the mocel of blue serge made by Lanvin, This d:ess is cu. with kimono sleeves that are once more an - . S 0 o o By Rene Stillman &Tr ONLY apartment larger I'd be perfectly happy.” sighed the bride. “It’s ideally situated and laid out, the paints and the walls are just what I want, but it certainly our were isn’t large enough.” “How much larger would you like it to be?” questioned the interior decora- tor. “A third at least,” replied the bride unhesitatingly. “Perhaps it can be managed,” was the decorator’s unexpected encourage. ment. “Oh,” laughed the bride, “you're not acquainted with our landlord — he’s noted for his closeness. Besides, the whole building’s laid out in just such apartments as mine, so there wouldn't be any way of enlarging our particular apartment except by building an addi- tion to the house, even if the tyrant were generrus, which he decidedly is not.” “The question of additional building doesn’t arise, and as for the mercenary landlord, he can be thrown into the discard right off. We can enlarge that apartment without his having an ink- ling of it.” “For pity’s the bride. “By rearranging the furniture and the hangings.” “As simple as that?” “As simple as that,” nodded the dec- orator. “Would you like to chat about it a little?” “Would I like to have an expert’s advice, you mean, you good angel; well, T most certainly would!” “Is there a storage basement in the building?” promptly asked the deco- rator, smiling at the other’s eager ness. P “Well, if I were you I'd move some of my furniture down there. Your apartment is crowded Like most brides, you've a great many more of some things and heavier things than zou need, and superfluous and cum- sake, how?” exclaimed Rough straw, you have already been told. spring, and this mode in bright green, designed by Odette, convincingly attests to the chic smartness of such models. This has a very interesting crown band and bow made of feathers and a unique wing trimming is predestined for favor this innovation in fashions, and the sleeve Is loese and short, but is finished by an inner cuff of white organdie match- ing the funny little roll collar that Is arranged across the back of the col- larless neck. der. This dre: is in beige tricot with An interesting feature of this dress facings of navy blue silk. is the uneven line of the skirt, which In the other group of dresses un is accentuated by the flat embroidery questionably the one of navy blue done in imitation of braid. This is a silk bardine would first attract at- vouthful model, though it may tention, this because of the rather be worn by the slim woman who is no elaborate embroidery of Venetian de longer a girl. sign done in French blue, which effects Decidedly interesting the coat » sing combination of color. And dress shown with the se dress al- color. yvou know, is always the first ready described, designed by Bernard. detail of a costume to attract the eye. This dress is somewhat on Directoire Lines and the details of finish and lines and vyet it unfitted effect conforms with the that seems to be the aim and desire in modern clothes. While the underdress is fitted, the coat top hangs loosely from the shoul- very The interesting coat dress was de- signed by Bernard, and is rich in new fashion features. It is devel- oped in beige tricot with facings of navy blue silk trimming come after. Here, too, you will see that while there is a seeming fullness to the model, the lines are kept slim and straight. While the companion suffer for immediate company of the dress just described, it lacks nothing in charm or beauty and interesting because of its new features, principally because of the sleeves, which are close fitting and cut above the elbow line. This is one very decided innovation of French fashions that has already had considerable publicity, not without reason, for v, indeed, are the women who can s ssfully wear such a sleeve unless they determine to always wear long gloves, Here, too, is a rub, because with the present price of gloves it will cost a “baby fortune” to always have fresh ones. This frock is by Jenny, and is in beige tricot, with matching chiffon. Rough straw, have heard al- ready, is predestined for favor this and T am showing you a very interesting new model developed in this much heralded strow. The wing- trimmed hat is of rough green straw, a dress may attention in the and you spring MAGNIFYING THE CITY APARTMENT bersome articles only serve to make most] an apartment the smaller by using up valuable space.” “But they objected the bride, can’'t hurt people’s feelings carding them.” “No need to “and I by dis- are wedd simply put them away S Uncluttered walls, just enough furniture,, small rugs, and the vista con- necting one room Wwith another, all help the illusion of spaciousness in the when resur storage the donors are rect the sary for we're wa dear. basement and due for visi sifts, if you think it them to be on idering into bypaths, my Wedding gifts and their charms and horrors are a chapter in themselves, neces- display. But “Apartment dwellers must learn that only the necessary and useful things can be retained. That doesn’t mean that all beauty is eliminated. My, no! An article may have an esthetic use as well as a berry practical may be A mul- necessary to bal- ance the color scheme of a room, you know. but it shouldn’t be in that room if it is but a superfluous article that one feels must be put somewhere and has no real contribution to abiding place—it must intruder, especiall in ment where even an is precious—precious which to place an valuable in it own self, for a few bare places in a room magnify it, and that is exactly the effect that the apartment dweller must aim to obtain one. jar make to its never be an apart- inch of space not only in article, but in- an very t is quite as n ary to fully consider the wall space as it Is the floor space. Too many pictures upon a wall or a small wall broken into panels or covered with a too definitely patterned paper will look smaller than it really is, while few and a plain and not too colored paper will make the look larger than it is—a gray blue paper, for example, will make a room look almost a third larger than its actual size, while a red paper will contract the walls and make the room look about a third smaller. Consequently, the selection of the wall coverings for a small apartment is ot tremendous importance. “Speaking of walls, b.ings question of mirrors, Personally, in favor of mirrors in scheme and especially in an apart- ment, for there they will seemingly make an exit in a too solid wall ot a room and so give the a ta and space; they care- pictures darkly room up the I'm a decorating will reflect Photographs by Fashion Cariers Decidedly new and unique is the one-piece dress of navy blue serge, trimmed with a flat embroidery i imitation of braid, carried out in navy and white silk. This is a Lanvin model very bright green, and is trimmed With an interesting and unusual crown band made of feathers and a unique feather-wing trimming, which would seem to have been designed especially for this hat model. This hat is by Odette, as is the second hat, the fetching and unusual turban. This turban is of a blue straw, which is practically a braid, and the hat has no trimming the unique double-winged orna- ment, colorful in intermingling tones of tan and cherry. Space does not permit of presenting to you other French fashions today. There are more on the way, equally as attractive as those I have chosen to show you. And whether you can buy them and wear them or not, I feel that every woman looks upon the presentation of French fashions as very interesting and desirable fashion news. lovely navy save whatever light is admitted and almost double it; and besides, if well framed, they add a valuable color touch to the room itself. If there is a pleas- ing view from one of your windows and the other side of the room is un- broken, it is a pretty idea, where pos- sible, to hang a mirror apposite the window having the view and reflect ‘t. Thus one has two pleasant vistas in the room instead of ome. “Then there is the floor problem. It is a popular belief that a single large square rug, or one that suits the shape of a room, is the correct floor covering for a small room. This is not always the case. A carpet which covers the entire floor will not alter the size of the room to the eye, but a large rug with a decided border or one about which there is a space of bare floor will contract the walls of that room, seemingly, just as though they brought up to touch the edges of the rug itself. A better way is to use two or three small rugs, placing them, of course, so that they will not be at bewlldering and dizzy angles. This arrangement has the opposite effect and the floor, to the eve, gains in spaciousness. ago I mentioned & carpet. Pleage don’t think for a moment that I advise it Rugs the only floor covering permissible in these days of sanitation, to my mind. And there are rugs and rugs—the smaller the room, the smaller the design in a floor covering should be, even to the ex- tent of being nonexistent. Plain rugs are always in good taste. were A moment are “Vistas are important in a small apartment. The rooms should be re- lated in color and furnishings, scant portieres, if any, used, so that the rooms will open generously one into the other and so eliminate that boxed up feeling. “But there, suppose I run over to your apartment tomorrow afternoon and really help you in the enlarging— 1'd enjoy cheating that ary landlord.” “I'm speechless with claimed the bride, rad and merc gratitude,” ex: ant-eyed.