New Britain Herald Newspaper, March 3, 1916, Page 11

ATINEE COSTUMES FOR YOUNG LADIES LAT OW that new fasmfons are be- ing shown there is a particu- lar interest attached to the materials used for the com- osition of the same, since fabrics have good deal to do with the beauty and vie of any given model. It is known that the dearth of dye emicals * will influence the use of ght colors. The latter have been in state of restraint and abeyance dur- g the past several seasons because of e tremendous vogue of black, dark jlue, dull brown and certain of the eeri tones. Now, however, it is stated hat the dye shortage will make almost [nperative the adoption of pale colors. Fhite, of.course, is supreme always, ar or no war, and following white we all, probably see biscuit tones and Rle Eray being particularly favored. k fabrics have not been as se- ously affected as the other textiles. | ess silk has been used than worsteds, d therefore there is more in reserve pon which the present fashion makers ay draw; also there are many bril- fintly hued silks which fashion retired too pronounced or gay for average ear, but which may now be brought rward to fill in the gap made by the ually desired and heretofore obtain- ble £olors. For the tailor made there is a tricot hberdine, which, as its name indi- tes, is a straight across weave, dif- rentiating it from the dlagonal effect the gaberdine of other seasons. Just w it is well liked in dark blue and in eam. ench serge, which is a per- hnid] favorite, is exploited in several the rewest tailleurs. Speaking gen- ally, it is unadorned and depends for | htronage on the faultless lines and| brfect workmanship of the high class ! odels. [A Jot of worsted checks are being | fivanced; they are of the duvetyn | , but have their immediate an predecessor: though more of an outlined Lar design than at of the reguiation check. One btes that these plaids have light unds barreé in dark colors. a more decided nap | the beach suit. checks are to be excellent, | not averse to adopting it for the street cording to the high authorities, the | tailleur. riety that is being indorsed just now | NEW, BRITAIN DAILY HERALD, FRIDAY, MARCH 3, 1016, e i e 1 tertals the important place accorded to wool jersey cannot be overlooked. This material was advanced some two or three seasons ago Imerely in an ex- perimental way. Smart women looked upon it doubtfully and did not favor it with any marked degree of patron- age. For one thing, it seemed to re- semble too closely an old time under- wear fabric, and one of the names by which it was known—stockinette—in- dicated its apparent lack of suitability for the expression of outer raiment. However, the exigencies of the in- cipient season have forced the atten- tion of designers and manufacturers on jersey cloth. It has the advantage of being very light in weight, and, if properly cut, its stretching propensi- ties are minimized. Last summer there was a good deal of silk jersey used. It had the advantage of being costly, which kept it more or less ex- clusive. Doubtless we shall hear more about this aristocratic member of the jersey clan as the weeks go by and winter gives way to the spring season. Just now, however, it is the woolen fabric that is arousing greater inter- est, since it 1s being employed for In between models in- dicate that smartly dressed women are Every one feels that the Spanish | movement in dress is bound to be a | success, although its progress will be | | slow, and it may be that the minor | | features of this mew style will be Be Youthful and Button Your Blouse Up the Back NE of the details that have come back through the revival of the old time modes is the fastening of the gown or separate blouse down the back. The inconvenience that attaches thereto is more than balanced by the effect of youth—and one might also say an approach to the juvenile—which is imparted to the wearer. In the majority of instances buttons are used wherewith to make an ornament of necessity, and these but- tons are sometimes continued from the nape of the neck to the hem of the skirt. There are examples where this sort of decoration appears also on the front of the garment, especially where there are panel arrangements, but on the whole it is considered more chic to have them only down the back. . It may appear a broad statement to say that the designers are giving their special attention to collars, sashes the new idea. distends the hips thingale, Poiret started The high collar in the low evening gown is the first attempt to establish As for the farthingale, that reed that of the skirt to fall limply toward the - o is ankles, it is already seen at dances. One has to go back to the sixteenth century to get the origin of the far- and the fact that it lasted through the seventeenth | commentary on its popularity. one must look to New France for its revival in the year 1916. | Lucienne advocate Long before Jeanne Lanvin, Worth and | elbow sleeve for thin dresses. their Spanish |ment a designer in New York had her | corporate the short sleeve, whic manikins wearing it. and draperies that seem to make the back of the garment more decorative than the front. Perhaps this is not to be criticised, hut rather to be praised. Anyhow, the recall of mid-Victorian capes, of pelerines, pinafore draperies and kindred effects is conducive to a picturesque ensemble. It may be the effort to get away from old lady suggestions that has brought about a broad use of ribbons wherewith to break the stately Godey lines of the new-old fashions. An instance of this is found in a dress of two tone blue taffeta, whose shades suggest the waving cornflower or the polished surface of lapis lazuli, according as the light strikes it. Leastwise, voiles, crepe de chines, pussy willow taffetas, linens and Pop- lins are going into these interesting new blouses, with flesh colors, white, creams, buffs, grays and pale yellows as favorite colors. Fluffy ruches‘on the fronts, wide revers buttoned down and open throats are also spring features of blouses that button in front. which also have ome ins and allows the edge now considere cases the the latter g lawn, org Flowers, are at both present century is a But York and not| Such designers as Premet, Beer and the return of the Indecd move- | many of the most charming models i on the bodice. cled with various This was as long | must be confessed, seems the logical ranged. Rc t depth at the back ze the long shoulder line which sleeves are a The been revived as a feature of the new models. nces the collars are al- and they In many banded with a ling or ruching of the collar fabric, expr or ne natural the adornment on the voluminous skirt or boutonniere for wear with the tailored suit is usually a single flower of medium size, encir- in white and artificial, desirable stiffly ar- poppies WINTER WEAR leat and each leaf at- tached to the main stem by three small rhinestones. Morning glories are formed of gold gauze painted in deli- cate shades of mauve and with leaves of green, and mauve colored cycl mens have leaves of sheer silver lace Velvet roses in pink, mauve and blue have leaves of black chantilly lace edged with chenille or black net ed with jet. The stems are covered with chenille or jet, according to how the leaf is outlined. Orchids are used in a single flower with sprays of maiden- hair fern. In addition to the natural shadings there are those in cerise or bright coral This time of the year, when so many theater parties are being given, de- mands pretty matinee costumes, ] the first one pictured is a very dressy suit of plum colored matelasse cut Russian style with deep bands of black fox fur. The slceves are bell shaped, and the draped fur turban is very smart. The next costume is rather more striking in its shepherdess effect —a navy blue and white wide striped satin combined with navy blue panne velvet. The quaint little cape with its pointed, tasseled end is modish to a degree, and the bands of skunk fur give ballast to the design. This costume must be carried just right in order to realize itself. Maroon velvet develops the hand- some suit with its double flare of squirrel fur, The skirt is full, and the shoulder line of the loose sleeves is cut Squirrel skin also gives the high single velvet velvet, painted and covered with gold | net, are also used, as are also dark toned hops made of chenille or irides- cent beads with velvet foliage. The colors in these boutonnieres are usually in the faded tones of mauve, old rose, dull blue and green, with much use of brown and of ashes of roses. Single medium sized roses of silk, in browns, grays and mauves, have leaves of soft green velvet dusted with the shade of the flower. Single roses are encircled with small wreaths | of leaves or forgetmenots. Usually the rose is in a shade of old rose and the forgetmenots in blue, pale yellow or gray. Red leaves of velvet, scattered | among leaves in shadings of olive | low. green, are used with flowers in salmon | color. This suit is made of such lux- pink, mauve, green or brown. Usually | uriant materials that they carry the there is no attempt to imitate natural | design without other trimming. blossoms. Net, lace, beads, gold and . next outfit is of tan velours and silver gauze, ribbon, mother-of-pearl reen pin stripe cut with a marked and enamel are also used in the mak- | flare and banded with narrow seal ing. Smart carnations are made of |The trig little cap to match has a taffeta, each petal of the flower being ck silk tassel held by a seal pompon shirred into the required shap and matches the stole scarf. The last For evening gowns there costume is somewhat dressier, a re- ol S e e ception gown of brown silk net com- clusters and in trailing vine | bined with velvet ribbon and lands. Vines of ro stems of [lynx fur. Velvet ribbon sash ends brilliants with wreaths bowknots | held by a pink French rose make @& of dotted gold gauze ribbon. A sim-|very attractive dle. The simple ple garland of small pink and blue |bodice has odd cuffs fur edged, while roses is attached to stiff stems of (a white fox rf gives a dashing rge single, in | and gar- | ide green velvet, each rose separated by a'touch to an already graceful design. v scheduling *he list of new ma- | adopted before the entire silhouette.|ago as last April. { accompaniment of the fichu-like collars ' and carnatio Apples of SOOI OOOOOOY Need a Lot of Loving 20000000000000000000000000000000000& Folks need a lot of loving in the morning. | Folks hunger so for loving at the nig The day is all before, with care beset— | _ time, The cares we know, and those that When v no warnir For love is God's own antidote for fret. I S CCOCOOOOOOTOOTT OV GOV VDO ODCOOOOOOO | For a Baby's Lauette Cr DI D OODOOOT OOV OO D OO0 sescrneence evceessssco & ONE IN TEN A GOOD DRESSER & : 0ece0n® eecccee scescoae 1) e3e000000 veecc0000e00e ®occvce (ONLY one woman in ten dresses be- - comingly. If you study the dress of women you meet at the next reception you attend, at the next club meeting or when you erations of dress in the matter of be- should be long enough to cover the comingness is the neck line. If you |wrist, vet how many dressmakers there have a becoming neck arrangement|are who habitually cut our sleeves off you have done much to solve the|an inch too short! There is nothing problem. As a general rule, it may be | that so enhances the beauty of the | The interfor of the box and the inside | 2'® taking a walk in the city streets | said that the front of a woman's neck [ hand as the cuff that is long and trim | of the 1id should also be lined to match | YOU Will agree with this verdict. And|is more graceful than the back and |and well fitting. the outside of the box, which then is | YOU 2lso probably will agree that the | that the collar that shows the turn of | The part that colors play in the quite ornamental as & window seat|trouble is not usually because they |the throat or a collar that is actually | matter of becomingness cannot be when not otherwise in demand, A |J0 TOt spend enough money on their | high is more becoming than the collar | overestimated. Much as we would dis- wooden Lox may be painted and en- °‘°th°: :’; th:t! 'the); do mnot de\:rote ;hat marks the “line of decapitation.” |like to go about in a colorless world, ey | in it v enoug ought to the subject. The|It is only the very young and very |the truth cannot be denied in the fact| .. S e s o R it S0S0e b ::v,/eel:lztowvl‘:?:d:rei:o;fi‘: dogawsv:;’&‘mfig trouble usually lies in the fact that|beautiful who can stand the trying ef- | that the darker colors are more gen: | YWhile bickering and worriment are rife. | Folks need & o S A R Sani e MAdealontiininteatalietiarsl they think of their clothes quite apart | fect of the collar that shows the back |erally becoming than light colors. Yet ‘A hamper recently made for a baby | rom their own individuality. They of the neck, the line below and behind |if lighter, brighter colors were well = A had the inside of the lid filled with g |JUd8e a piece of fabric merely on its | the ears. combined and well selected this would | S-iiddaddpbb bR Pedd e PP s PP P oIS HORIDLPHIEIBBDHREPOIS great bow of pink ribbon to match the | Merits, whereas one should never se- z Another thing that makes for be-|not be the case. Perhaps it is well to re- o Sther trimmings. This bow could be|lect material for a gown without con- | 5 & WEDDING ANNIVERSARIES s comingness in the neck ngement is | member that, next to black, dark blue 0{ i e e stantly having in mind a vision of |neatness and simplicity of outline. The | is the most easy color to wear; dark |* % b PP 4 Rtasaan e At et SiDl to! one's own personality, the hue of the FIELIPLOPPELPIEIIPIIIE g o bk i bunchy, complicated effect at the neck | gray and such dark shades as tete de A complexion, the defects as well as the | gives a jarring note that detracts from | negre, other dark browns and dark| First—Cotton. Eleventh—Steel. £00d points of one's face and figure. | the appearance of the rest of the gown. | ereens come next, then light neutral | —sccond— Pape Twelfth—Linen SHIRRED OYSTERS. It is a hackneyed remark to say that|One reason why the simple kerchief | shades of tan and gray. R e Thirteenth—Lace, (CHOP twenty-five large oysters fine, |a thin, tall woman should not wear |effect worn by the Puritan women of | The greatest detraction from hecom-| Lhird—Leather. Fourteenth—Ivory. add the beaten yolks of two eggs, | Stripes running up and down, and to |old Was so generally becoming was be- | ing dressing is woman’s endless quest| Fourth—Fruit and flowers. Fifteenth—Crystal. ¢two tablespoonfuls of cream, sufficient | say that the short fat woman should | cause it was perfectly simple in con- | for the new effect. If you have found| Fifth—Wooden. Pl kg dry breadcrumbs to thicken and salt|never indulge her taste for trimming | struction. 1(1;9 style that really is becoming, why | Sixth—Sugar. Twenty-fifth—Silver. and pepper to taste. Fill the cleaned | running around about. But even| Another detail of dress that makes|not be content in sticking to it? It| Seventh—Woolen Thirtieth—Pearl. v>"¥s 112 padded with cotton wad-|shells with the mixture. Put little | though oft repeated it is apparently |or mars becomingne: the sleeve | can be adapted to the requirements of | Fighth—TIndia rubber. Fortieth—Ruby. on top and then be covered with | pieces of butter on top and bake in a | still unknown to many. Fiftieth—Golden. nim or cretonne. Inside a little tilll quick oven until Mghtily browned. ending. It seems needless to say that | changing fashion, and no one but your- | Ninth—Willow. One of the most important consid-|the sleeve that is supposed to be long | self will become weary of it. Tenth—Tin, Seventy-fifth—Diamond. with the aid of two| the sides of thei “The till may be simply a wooden | framework with a denim bottom and loops on the sides to lift it readily. Jatest idea of a suitable undi cenventent recepracie for the new by's layet:e !s to provide a small drobe which has ilts interior Ntted s half with érawers and the other It%with a closet and hangers. Such wxrdrobe wiii suffice for the young- er for many years after it has passed s tuby ntage, and if it is selected of ¢02d to correspond with the mother’s rriture it will Jook well in the room & be mere dureble than a wicker bu- FHE arily they take them home for el Eve| b ‘A\( slumber song and turning out the light time | of an | best! the times for that's the loving Folks need a lot of loving at the noon- time— In the battle lull, the moment snatched | Folks want a lot of loving from strife— The sympathy of others and tl Halfway between the waking and the |Till life's end, from the moment Sorie of these wardrobes have a deep wer at the bottom of the shallower | wers which will hold afghans and lider wrappings, while the top draw- i wil! hola the tiny silk and wool irts and flannels, the siips and petti- ats and the dresses. The little coat 3 wrappers hang on the scented pad- G hangers In the closet compart-| ent. very nice hamper for the baby may manufactured out of a firewood box | 2 Shirt waist box The latter may |