New Britain Herald Newspaper, October 14, 1915, Page 10

ITH velvets rushing into popularity, every variety of them, from velveteen for durable business skirts to most beautiful panne velvet used for suitings, combinations with taffetas and satins for afternoon frocks and corduroys for children’s winter coats, our illustration of another use for this favorite material is especially timely. This elegant evening wrap of rose panne has a deep square collar such as Cheruit delights in. Massive folds of velvet hang in rich drapes on either siae, and one corner is finished with an elaborate silk tassel. The front fastens with a large ornamental clasp. Lined with a soft figured silk in deep cream color, this evening wrap answers the need of an opera coat, its voluminous- ness affording sufficient warmth. Afternoon frocks are rivaling popu- lar summer sports garments as cool days drive womankind nearer the bridge table from the golf links. Our illustration is designed for street wear, however, as buttoned top boots and the chic little velvet tricorn attest. This smart frock is featured in navy satin nocturne combined with georgette crape. The shortish skirt is quite full with a deep yoke effect of crape like the long sleeves, with a ribbon ruffle and touches of embroidery in navy blue tone. A smart batiste collar relieves the plain baek of the bodice, while the sleeves are finished at the wrist in bishop style. This frock is especially useful for the last warm fall days be- fore serge and coverts take the lead for street wear. Of our two street suits one is for Juveniles in navy blue gaberdine, show- ing a circular skirt and a coat short in front, while developing into a redingote back. Black soutache braid attrac- pockets. braided, and the vest of blue and green plaid duvetyn buttons snugly at the waist line, merging into a high, slightly The other suit is fash- the belt confining narrow plaits that appear The tively finishes the hips, with a hand- |high roll collar with metal embroidery some tassel pendent from the mock |lends a military effect. The cutaway fronts are also |buttons are oblong. Deep cuffs and an rolled collar. joned of brown broadcloth, above and below the waist -line. \ BEAUTIFUL HAND BAGS THEBE is a surprising variety of novel hand bags, both in leather and silk, shown in all the shops just mow. The silk bags are usually of a shade to match the hat or gown or of some harmonizing tone. One attrac- tive little silk bag, which would har- monize with a frock of either navy blue or white, was made of white silk, over whose surface appeared flights of blue birds. Bags made of mavy blue silk are numerous, and many bags are of all white silk. There are also novel combinations of leather and silk in bags, as well as combinations of leather and silk belts. Charming belts and bags are formed of beautiful brocaded silks with trim- rmings of patent leather in black or white or color. Belts and bags of cot- #on materials, with trimmings of pat- ent leather, are also obtained. There has been new favor accorded to patent leather, and many of the most recent bags have been fashioned from this leather. It does not wear so wéll as many of the other leathers, but it has a brightness foreign to any of the, rs, & youthful air, and, made up in ractive shape, it certainly de- serves popularity, even if it does be- comé shabby rather quickly. Many of the smartest designs are in black and white. One, for instance, was made of black patent leather trim- med with a large roynd shaped patch of white kid on each side. The handle was of the black leather. A bag built much upon the same lines was of white kid trimmed with three straps of black patent leather. Another bag was made of black patent leather and trimmed with a strap of the white kid extending from the top to the bottom of the bag. The strap gradually widened toward the bottom. THE BEST TIME FOR BATHS. BATHE in the way and at the time best suited to your own comfort and convenience. Some persons find that the effort of rising for a morning bath is a drain on the vitality; others find the morning bath a preparation for the whole day and are too tired at bedtime to take the bath which proves restful to others. In the matter of temperature, too, tastes and needs vary. A &old plunge is good only for those whom it leaves in a glow of warmth; a lukewarm plunge, or a cold sponge, or a hot bath followed with cold water is more invigorating to others. For the woman who is really run- down, however, the afternoon bath, if she can possibly find time for it about § o’clock, will prove to be the most re- freshing. This bath should be warm | .y and should be followed by a cool ‘e BDQNZKS OF SPTAYs & sk For the Autumn Bride % NCE, long ago, in the days of the spinning wheel and hand loom, the early years of a maiden’s life were oc- cupied in getting together, to the ac- companiment of much good advice, all the things considered meet and neces- sary for those about to venture into matrimony. - But now everything is changed. To begin with, the whole business in these strenuous times is often compressed into a few weeks, sometimes even into a few days, filled with flerce excitement. Buylng the trousseau and choosing the household linen are important points in every wedding, whether it is big or little, whether it takes place in a hurry or is arranged only after due deliberation. At one time the bride was definitely charged with the responsibility for providing all the linen for use in the home over which she was to rule, as well as her own personal things. it is a debatable point whether the man shall assume the burden. But which- ever way the matter is settled, and it has a way of being solved chiefly by reference to the relative circum- stances of the parties, the bride elect usually has a large say in the matter of choice, and it is really not so easy as might appear at first sight. For instance, the problem of the towel is quite a knotty one. Unsus- pected pitfalls surround the chotce of table linen. The even tenor of the matrimonial way may be badly ruffled by paying insufficient attention to the harmony which should exist between the sheet, the pillowslip and the bedspread. Is the pillowslip trimmed with cluny lace? Then, to avoid the | Incomparable Way 'ASH and leave in a bowl of cold water one pound of smallish mushrooms, uniform size, cutting off the ground ends of the stems with a silver knife. Any other will blacken the meat. Fresh mushrooms need not be peeled. Every fiber of them is nour- ishing. Chop two tablespoonfuls of butter, stirring in enough flour to make a thick paste. Remove the mushrooms from the bowl of cold water to an agate or aluminum saucepan, keeping what wa- ter clings to them. Over these damp mushrooms scatter dabs of the butter and flour mixture, so that, melting, it soaks down into the gills. Dust the top with salt and paprika to taste, and over all sprinkle three teaspoonfuls of table sherry. Put the saucepan, tightly .covered, over a slow fire, , This is the to Cook Musiirooms crux of the whole technique. It is this slow action of heat that works the chemical charm of the incomparable flavor. An asbestos mat over a low flame is safe, but a blue flame that threatens almost to flicker out is surer, for much heat will ruin the delicate flavor. Leave the pan alone for twen- ty minutes. Lest you be tempted to peek in (and let the delicious aroma escape!) go off and read or play the piano. At the end of twenty minutes stir the mushrooms with a silver spoon, so the flour does not “catch,” and with a slightly stronger flame cook them ten more minutes, stirring. At the end of half an hour your mushrooms will float in a rich, mahogany colered gravy as near to ambrosia as mortals come. out toast as a Sunday night entree for four. people. ! B i) Now | risk of nightmare, the sheet must fol- low suit and the bedspread conform to the genera]l scheme. Of course it fol- lows that no one with a sense of the fitness of things would pair a towel powdered with a snowflake pattern with another decorated with a chaste border of humming birds. A similar unity of thought must be preserved in the table linen. There are those who prefer to eat off a cloth checked with the familiar blue and white of the kitchen duster, With nap- Kins en suite, and orange tableware as an additional fillip for a disordered di- gestion. A more numerous class pre- |fer the less sensational cloth of white damask, but here, too, the chances of going wrong are infinite. A tablecloth reproducing the Bayeux tapestry may be a beautiful thing in itself. Allied with napkins following the school of decoration it produces dys- pepsia in the napery precision. No wonder the bridegroom hand over his responsibilities in this matter to the subtle female mind, more capable of grasping the value of the apparently unimportant. 20%5#4-]-0-]-“-04-“-5*4*(*!#0’4: A Defense of HoopsKkirts :0%4#60&%&*04'91-0#0#0‘?0{-0#!; ¢CY EARS ago, when hoops went out of style, the last was as small as could be worn, the place of the slender wires being taken, for perhaps ten inches in front, by tapes one and three- fourths inches broad. Dresses were a comfortable width, and the hoop took the place of starched skirts.” This is the testimony of an old fashioned lady who would like to see them return. She continues: “The ironing of many starched skirts was avoided; also their unhealthy weight. For those who worked in hot rooms the advantage was very great. In a high wind the hoop prevented the dress and skirts from twisting around the ankles, and any unprejudiced ob- server would agree that the style was much more modest and becoming than the very tight or very full skirt. If the gay and giddy prefer a dress which ‘clings’ or ‘billows’ a multitude would bless the manufacturer who would make a hoopskirt such as I have de- scribed. If elastic, not too stiff, should take the place of tapes, it might be an improvement, but a small hoopskirt, Mr. Modiste, do let us have.” Our illustrated twentieth hoopskirt is of net, elast featherboning. It is especially Qe- signed to wear under the new fluffy skirts which stand out in the most bouffant fashion. Gathered net is century bands and Serve in warm ramekins wuh-lcleverly arranged over the feather- boning, so that it can be’ slipped out Adam | is willing to | harness of fashion is worn over the |decrees that we must add bones to our The novelty HOOPSKIRT A LA MODE when the skirt is laundered, = This new usual muslin petticoat or slip that goes | skeletons with evening gowns. It Dame Fashion lthan these, Sl - odd shaped yoke are other interesting features. The skirt is slightly longer than some models, just escaping high button boots. Our two fall turbans give newest hints, one of the all feather hat. It is of pure white hackle, with two smart wings, and may be worn appropriately with a suit or a frock. The other is a clever adaptation of the Russian idea. 1t is featured here in krimmer and | trimmed with a beautiful wing that somehow suggests an airship in its graceful outlines. Even the turban is being elevated to a slanting, coiffure sliding position, with the point of the angle—if one may be pardoned for designating any por- tion of the curved brim of a hat an angle—perilously near the right eye. The vogue for sailor shapes is being usurped by the poke styles, which at this time have advanced into a bewil- dering variety of styles. Hatter’s plush is a great favorite for this season’s hats and is combined with velvet, taffeta or fur. Taffeta made hats, shirred into toque {and shapes, made of black or colors ind trimmed with fur strips and cut | teel ornaments, are a Paris derived sponsored by Reboux. Ivet hats are always to the fpre. The average woman will choose a toque for wear this season nine times out of ten. Velvet ribbons and beautifully embroidered, plaided or novelty de- signed ribbons will trim these dainty confections in millinery, which, by the way, never seem to fail to become every woman who wears one. Fur trimmed and fur made hats will enjoy an equally popular vogue. The last named are being offered in Glen- garry cap shapes. High crowned silk beaver hats, pertly SOME SMART HINTS FOR. EARLY AUTUMN ¢ a saucy buckle, will be worn by thosé who can afford them-—not that these hats are so expensive, but the severity] of line and style is so trying for the average woman. In fact, these may be said to be designed to ple the youthful and to tantalize the matron, for they are yery smart and chic The new chemisettes for autums wear are “chokered,” often buttoned | the back and frequently hand em broidered, especially those made of *or: gandle, Neckwear of this sort will be broadl demanded this season for wear wit all sorts of frocks, suits and gowns. I for no other reason than a protection to the neck from dye discoloratiol which sometimes occur when furs an worn, these choker collar chemisett will be acceptable. French dressmakers as well & American are using these collars mad of lace, net, batiste or organdie”an duplicating the styles in rich sill failles, damasks and old satins for wei with suits and one piece dresses. This, of course, indicates the possl bility of & vogue for waistcoats to en sue. AN ALLOWANCE FOR YOUR CHIL A CHILD/may be given a small re lar allowance for his own us Through this he may learn th&\Jo immediate indulgence of trifling whin] or he may learn to expend his sources with discrimination, or he m earn the advantages of deferring penditure for more favorable purcha ing. The child's claim to such an lowance can be justified to his mind exactly the same ground as his clal to food and clothing and other mate: and immaterial wealth shared in clasped, with a silk ribbon band and home. It teaches him independenc a t t t el pe t t y o t a | n it |n ‘Y p nothing could be daintier |q tivity growth ceases and old age threaten Inertia—a polite word for laziness dicates degenerating member this the next time yoh the street car when walking distance. you have a strong inclination to around the ve Remember every the temptation not to bestir yourgelf any and remain youthful! of ‘activity? And then think of the and women of the same age who old in body and mind! folk who prefer to sit and loll al and put oft till tomorrow the work: 1to. 8 | YOUTH' ALLY, AGTIVHY IIUMAN life is meant for activi The minute and not for idleness. ceases mental physie] inactivity, you are with Remember it ¥ nda instead of gettl ne of tennis or a swi time you succumb out for a ga glve And form of activity ‘come on" sign you to old age. wastes not a minute in responding your call. There youth. is only one way you can re It is by activity. hink of men and women you know who hi the forty, fifty or sixty I Aren't thgy 1} passed Aren't they oday? If you wish to keep young don't your vigilance over that deadly in nation to be easy not to do, so easy to accept' personal mental hood. into slothfulness of body and mind. is 8o easy to hypnotize clever excuses for inactivity rh it is the rain or the cold or a h or a tired feeling or a little embioid lazy languish. It is comforts at the sacrific stamina and physical It is 80 easy to baby oursel ourselves hat isn’'t at all necessary—anythin all, so long as it is an excuse It some benefactor comes alonl persuades you into some physical ivity, doesn't your mind take o heerier outlook as the blood is qu! ned through your arteries? Knowing from your own experiel herefore, that activity is good for houghts, for the emotions and rfin health, why sign the death warl fnactivity? SMALL GIFT. LITTLE gift which any tra would appreciate 18 & small nvelope e into which a doi he flat ase paper drinking re slipped Tan or blue linen would make fcest case, and an envelope maN| sed as a gulde for cutting thef our awn youth b se, tic | A1l the edges can be bound with & arrow white linen tape. The astened by means of snaps, lace. The recipient’s initials @ uotation in outline stitch ma the froft of the.c