New Britain Herald Newspaper, August 25, 1915, Page 10

# AUTUMN GREET5 THE FEMININE WORLD AR In FHurope has more| or less thrown American fashion designers upon their own resources. Bui . our own designers rack the! .for new and unique ideas U ¢ to their home people, the fa that they are subtly influenced | Parisian viewpoint, which this ‘means that practical, simple jwill predominate. according to the reports of the correspondents stationed s & eity much changed from the lljant, careless city which those ho are fortunate enough to have there know and love. It has felt showing the war strain. % | gay restaurants are less bril- he women who frequented them ppeared. These women, the| belles of Paris, who spent many | of francs each year for lux-| clothing, are now scattered. some are employing their In rolling bandages and knitting ng. Who can tell? Perhaps the wrought one of its many won- nges, and the delicate fingers “were wont to toy with the frag- of the champagne glasses may| plying the needle in the en- to relieve the sufferings of hu- ly instead of adding to them? there are the famous hostess- 13 P cloud has a silver lining, no jatter how black it may seem. ! your eyesight is keen you can ht through the outer covering and see the silver lining through. No matter how great j you may be in, there is a bright ) it if you know how to look. | first your eyes may be blinded appalling darkness of it all, but ute you become accustomed to begin to look around you will ttle glimmers of the light shining jh the blackness. S es, who wore no less dainty and ex- lack something of the startling quali- pensive clothing. In these days, instead | ti which have made of Paris the fash- of the fashionable teas, receptions and |ion center of the world so long. promenades, these delicate gentlewo- men are serving as nurses in the hos pitals and in various ways are helping | to relieve the pitiful condition of the wives and children of the men who are | either in the trenches or are wounded | and in hospitals. So it would seem fit- ‘ ting and proper that the designers of | the Paris couturiers, from whom our own designers derive inspiration, should Even the evening gowns show this desire for simplicity, as may be seen by consulting the figure at the right of the illustration which is presented today. For all its charm of silhouette and ma- terial this little dance frock is sim- plicity itself. The material is tulle— rose colored clouds of it. The irregular hem is piped with rose colored satin, and the girdle is of the same shade of satin. An upstanding frill gives a unique style feature to the bodice, which is simply wisps of tulle. The silhouette changes are very | slight and all ‘tending toward modera- | tion, as is evidenced by the high collar, narrow shoulder, slightly nipped in waist line and the set in sleeve. The full skirt is not so full as to be bur- densome, the conservative width being from two to two and one-half yards for tailored gowns and two and one-half |fo three and one-half yards for even- ing frocks of the modes prevailing now. The two tailored suits shown in the picture will illustrate also what I mean by simplicity. The figure at the lower left wearing the smart fox boa could hardly show a simpler tailleur. The garment boasts of no trimming what- ever, but the cut of the coat, which ripples around the hips, lends it style distinction. It fastens by means of three large bone buttons down the front. The skirt is absolutely plain and is cut slightly circular. PN P THE SUNNY SIDE OF LIFE Never give way to despair when trou- ble grips you. The only power that trouble has over you is the power you give it. Each and every one of us has her share of grief and trouble, but those of us who give way to it go under. Only those stay on top who have learn- ed to look through and beyond the darkness of trouble to the sunshine of peace and content. Since we all have more or less mis- fortune to meet let us strive to meet it in the right way. Why sit down and bewall the ill luck that is ours? Why Jam and is jam and Jelly time. Now, hile fresh fruits are plentiful, is ousewife’s busy period putting up s of delicious confections which prove extremely welcome six hence. The following recipes nglish in origin and may be help- b the American housewife: Gooseberry Chees: sh and pick, say, six pounds of berries, put them in a large pan ‘about a teacupful of water, just h to keep them from sticking. occasionally and cook till quite Rub through a sieve, measure and the pulp and replace in a clean ith, oné pound of preserving sug- each pound of pulp. Boil for forty minutes until a little tried saucer will set quite firmly. Put small pots and cover. imson cheese can be made just the B, and these conserves, in which and seeds are rejected, are cer- ly more wholesome for little chil- Raspberry Jam. the fruit carefully and put it in on a cool part of the stove rox‘J for two days. Strain the sirup and boil minutes to draw the juice. Add (equal weight) and stir well n till it boils. Cook till some stifly when cooled. “Rhubarb Jam. is cheap and is best made when arb is almost D Jelly Lore tarts, etc. Wipe it well, cut in inch long pieces and lay on large dishes cov- ered with slightly crushed sugar in equal proportions. Next day turn into a pan and add ground ginger in the| proportion of one-half ounce to every | pound. Boil very fast for one and a half hours, stirring carefully, and keep well skimmed. Cherry Jam. This is nicer, with bread and butter or scones, than almost any other. Wipe the fruit, remove the stones, put in a pan a pint of red currant juice and three pounds of preserving sugar and boil fast for five minutes. Add four pounds of cherries (weighed after ston- ing) and boil gently, stirring frequently and skimming it well till the fruit is perfectly tender, and the sirup will jelly when put to cool. Pour into small, dry jars and cover. Vegetable Marrow Jam. Pare, seed and dice the marrow; place in a deep earthenware vessel. To each pound of fruit allow one lemon and one orange very thinly sliced, sprinkle over it in layers three-quarters of a found of sugar to each pound of/fruit and leave for half an hour, ekimming it well. Put in the fruit and boil till tender; then add a few blanched and shredded alm- onds and a teaspoonful of ground gin- ger to each pound, boil five minutes more and pour into pots. This is a verv good “breakfast jam” and most using for 1 useful for “open” larts. NN turn our sorrow over and over in our minds, seeing in it ever new phases of misfortune? No! Let us stand up be- neath its weight, no matter how heavy the load may seem, and, with our eyes fixed on the glimmer of light, let us walk swiftly out of the dark paths into the sunlight. Once we have learned to walk on the sunny side of life darkness will have no further terrors for us, for we will carry our sunshine around with us in the depths of our hearts. The sunshine of the mind is far warmer and brighter than the sunshine which we see and feel with our physical senses. Once we have gained the true sense of real mental sunshine we will have the means to pull ourselves out of ev- ery slough of despond without any out- side aid. For just as Bunyan's “Pil- srim’s Progress” was mental, so it is with all of our journeys through life. What we really accomplish must first be worked out in mind. Learning to pick out the gleam of light from the dark path, learning how to avoid the sloughs of despond and how to walk in the sunshine is not easy, but even the attempt at learning these lessons brings the reward of happiness and peace. Every little effort in the right direction brings such beautiful returns that the only wonder is that so few of us make the effort. Now is the time to try! Let us be- gin today the attempt which will lead us into the sunny paths of life. In- stead of thinking of the petty annoy- ances of the day, which stay in our minds, rankling and irritating, let us wipe out the memory of them. When a disturbing, unpleasant thought comes to trouble us let us so fill our minds with lovely thoughts that there wiil be no room for the inharmonious ele- ment. It is only a small beginning to wipe | the discordant thoughts out of our minds, but by beginning so we grow ac- customed to harboring only beautiful ideas, and when the time of big trouble comes we will know how to meet it in the right way. Once the mind has learned to know only lovely things it will automatically seek the silver lining when the dark cloud appears ep the horizon. T a pretty novelty. The frame is made of silk brocade, with an edging of gold braid, and the aperture through which the face of the clock shows is also fin- ished with the braid. Since the telephone has become a necessary adjunct of milady’s boudoir Pretty Boudoir Novelties |3 HE clock shown in the illustration is . 32 “THERE are several things which have made women pay more at- tention within the past few years to keeping down their flesh than they had been doing,” says Dr. Watson L. Sav- age. “Dress had a good deal to do with it in the first place. There came first the sheathlike gown, which showed ev- ery superfluous ounce of flesh, and about the same time came the slit skirt, exposing the ankle. “Then about this time there came into the public eye a number of persons whose slenderness was noticeable. There was Annette Kellermann in swimming, who was a slender slip of a girl. All those things influence persons. “No one need have superfluous flesh. It depends upon herself. The flesh may be due to three things—to the manner of eating, dressing or the lack of exercise. It does not depend upon the amount eaten so much as what is eaten or going a long time without food and then eating a hearty meal. That is a great secret. We never keep a meal from a fat man, but we put flesh on a thin one by letting him get very hun- gry and then feeding him. Any re- striction in dress which affects the cir- culation may produce flesh. “Most persons who want to reduce are beyond middle age. The athletic girl of today may be among the women who will reduce tomorrow. It isusual- ly the case with a man athlete that when he drops athletics he puts on flesh. Go to any of the men’s athletic clubs and notice the older men who are various are the inventions [to conc it when not in use. The | very m useful article yet furnished |for this purpose is the screen pictured |many and sitting around—the ‘b -beens’ of ath- leties. You will usually see that they have waists twice the diameter of what | were when they were in train- 2. The athletic girl will be likely to . much the same thing. It is the wo- | 2n who has married and settled down who begins to put on flesh.” One of the newest methods for re-| ducing flesh is in the form of “mechani- cal rollers.” and they come from Chi- | cago. They are the invention of a man who made a fortune in mining devices | they NGOG PSS SIS0, 300 [prrrTrTTrTTT e 2 PO GSEGSG% 8 - provees =N The figure in the center shows a new tailleur with a belted effect and a high military collar. It really needs no | words to describe it, so simple is it. | Blue gaberdine is the material used in the building of these two chic and hand- some autumn tailleurs. At the upper left hand corner is illustrated one of the chic new autumn felt sailors. These sailors are shown in the most beautiful colorings imaginable, the one in the picture being of a faint rose pink. Pale blue, old rose, purple, white and all the pastel tints are used with stunning ef- fect The sailor is to be the hat par excel lence of the season Made velvet satin or tulle it is suitable, according to the material used, for morning, aft ernoon or evening and for any age, col- or or condition of servitude to fashion dom. Developed in velvet it is showr in the illustration at the top right gracing the luxuriant white locks ot the middle aged woman. Uncuried os- trich feathers in black and white make a handsome trimming for this charm ing chapeau. Only two figures are left for description, the two lower ones un- der the beautiful lady with the silvery * hair. The evening coat is of plush, very soft and with a beautiful pile. The skirt is very full and at the back is confined under a half girdle of rich metallic embroidery. The upper part is cut with kimono sleeves and a high collar. The sports coat and skirt at the right and the last figure in the picture are very pretty and smart. The coat is of+ crimson corduroy and is buttoned se- verely from the throat to the waist line. The skirt is of gray flannel, per- fectly plain save for the buttons whick ornament the front. in NLOSLSOS000: OG5 “REDUCING” REDUCED TO A SCIENCE 2ORL0G05 5% rooms are trying to reduce by rolling. Rolling 100 times in one direction and 100 in the other will have a good ef- fect. The only trouble with this is that |it is likely to make the patient seasick, so that she may have to give it up. The Chicago man set to work, and the rolling machine is the result. In it smooth wooden rollers are fixed per- pendicularly in a machine which works by electricity. The patient, man or woman—and both use it—stands or sitg in the machine, turning around at in- tervals while the rollers do their good work. Standing, the flesh below the waist is reduced and on the sitting pa- tient the flesh on the shoulders and back. The results are marvelous. There are any number of things that aid to cut down the flesh, such as me- i oo chanical horses, rowing boats and ae fine waist reducer which, if the work put into it was done on a farm, would nearly plow a field, and there are all sorts of games which can help also Tt used to be said that wielding a broom was one of the best flesh re- ducers known and that the only reason it was not used more was because it was useful and did not cost anything With the 999 kinds of microbes that are now known to exist in dust and the use+ of the vacuum cleaner, methods which used to be considered sane and sensi- ble are now taboo. Reducing of any kind, however, is not to be recommend- ed to the woman of slender purse, for | means too many changes of wardrobe, To lose six inches around the waist means & new gown. Consider Weill BIUCH of the success of a gown de- pends on its color. Soft, dainty tints predispose one at the start in f vor of a frock, while shrieking, blazing shades are apt_to repel on first sight Only the most strikingly plain desicns can carry off a vivid color, while a pas- tel shaded material can be done up in the most complicated of models, This year's taffetas weave that the The colors, too, are heautifully evening gowns. One sees a gr combinations in colors in gown For example, one littis seen recently was done in two shades of pink pussy willow silk, a dark tone nd a lighter one. The skirt was es of gores, alternating the light and dark shades to a very stunning effect The scalloped skirt was finished off with rows of tiny ruffles to give it this year's necessary fullness Those who prophesied that high neck- bands would not really arrive till the soft in ulards. L for many are resemble =0 P and retired to enjoy his wealth. In this | here, since it can be so readily removed |recent invention he turned his skill to | winter have been proved fa!se prophets iwhen the bell rings. As pictured here | lin part, it is made of cardboard and |covered with silk and ornamented with a handsome braid, a flesh reducer to aid a friend. to the practice of rolling. Most stout | women in the privacy of their own I those for afternoon wear, are cut with |sidered cxtremely smart as well This | With truly feminine inconsequence we |round so as to almost was a woman who had been resorting |have elected to begin them in the sum- |It mer, and all the new blouses, especially Of You frock | the _Color r New Gowns high collars of organdie or batiste, with flaring points which .dart outward from beneath the ears. It cannot be denied |that they are exceedingly smart, and there are certain phases of them which |tempt one to forget and forsake the more comfortable low necked waists | A charming :n had a deep dressy waist seen recente and front composed etmenot blue tte top of the the yoke plain for ening from the wnd right of tiny coral buttons Reo rape, fa |1ar b th . mate- down front v The sleer of the finely dion plaited tucks form the ornamenta- |tion of many blouses #and have a very pretty effect all fan- | tenings are button s | has been 1 role a row md whole lower part were white practically large or small will play the rds the smartness collars this eason | the waist s re | Even | in tinest |by inv | novelties chiffon or the high “choker, trunsparent ible bonin also a soft ried lawn and held up are among the trill of wired rising up all conceal the chin, sa’d that before winter black stocke in satin, moire or taffeta will i.» cone s, deep muslin 4