New Britain Herald Newspaper, August 9, 1915, Page 10

HFRE are many signs point- ing toward a curtailment in the autumn fashions of the flamboyant features of the er. Skirts are a wee bit less| . Shoes are inclined to be less by and hats to follow becoming | In fact, the entire trend of the styles is toward sanity, for h let us be devoutly thankful. redingote for coats and. the ss gowns go hand in hand, so ad- rumors say, for which bit of luck jould thank M. Worth, for no one e courage to launch the new style “he made his princess frock with- waist line, a feature of last s fashions. This princess frock fnot have an entirely successful hing, but those on the watchtow- aw in it a striking development of away from what had prevailed for uit saw in the attempted prin- (frock, which will come into great- er prominence with each succeeding month, the chance for the kind of outer garment she is peculiarly fitted to make. To her the Louis XV. period is the most artistic, as the eighteenth century is to Doucet, and in the red- ingote she had the chance to sweep long magnificent lines from chin to in- step. This she is doing and may be de- pended upon to continue until the leaves turn red, if not longer. Each year we hear the cry that the separate blouse is doomed to extinc- tion, yet the decades pass without this ill prophecy proving true. While sum- mer lasts it is possible that women will wear thin waists with skirts that carry coats, and it is earnestly hoped that the separate white wash blouse will never be banished from the wardrobe, for no garment can really take its place. But, accepting all these facts, still it must be faced as a condition, not a theory, that the one piece frock will be by far the more fashionable outfit than the three piece suit. This autumn will see it at high \lds. That is the news from across the wa- ter, and there is noreason to doubt that all of the great designers are bending their efforts to secure originality in one piece frocks that are frankly princess MODEST or have the appearance of a skirt with a short jacket The latter idea has been worked out rather successfully during the early summer, but the ma- Jority of women passed it by, choosing | the regulation coat suit in preference,‘ their reason being the traditional one that one can doff a coat and be cool in a transparent blouse, but the attached Wwaist must remain. This is true when cloth is used for a coat and skirt, but the fashionable materials of this sum- mer are not cloth, barring the thinnest | kind of serge. And blue serge, it is| news for those of us who like the fabric, There does not pass a season that there is not some sort of struggle when the frock comes to the part of the body which is supposed to mark a dividing line. Cheruit does not want a dividing line marked out definitely on the frock or coat, and Premiet and Jen- ny seem to delight in placing the beit where it was in other days. In the center'of the cut are two viewsof a gown showing the new princess lines |the skirt portion front and rear. This, with, of course, manifold variations, shows the trend of the autumn styles. As can be seen, is cut moderately flaring and is joined by means of stitching to a bodice portion, which is cut with a ‘long tab in front, upon which buttons and buttonholes are applied to effect the closing. Motifs of braid and buttons confine the fuliness at the waist line in front, and a sash of satin backed velvet ribbon outlines the waist at the back. A flaring collar of tulle is used at the neck. said, will retain its high position again At the extreme left of the illustration during the autumn, which is good notice the “fiapper” tallleur, flapper ACCENTS veing the foreign term for the young girl. This gown is rather boyish in line Yand is made of navy wool mohair, with | full skirt and hip length coat, showing a semibelted effect. The collar but- tons high in military fashion, and a turnover velvet collar serves as smart trimming. The trim toque 1s of faifie silk. ¥ The gown next to it has a simulated coat effect in the back, the front taper- ing to & blouge and confined by a silk girdle which crosses in the back and ties in front.low won the skirt. The skirt is only. moderately full and is simply hemmed. At the right of the princess dreds which I have already described is an- other gown which illustrates the pop- ularity of the simulated coat effect The sleeves are long and snug and are trimmed with buttons and silk braid The yoke effect of the skirt meets the Eton effect of the blouse in an unbro- ken lihe, and both are trimmed wilh buttons. The skirt is finished about the bottom with the silk braid. The last piéture of the {llustration features a stufining blue felt hat and s pair of gloves. The hat has a teim. ming of black velvet applied very flats ly about the crown and incidentally spilling over on the brim. The glover are unique.” They are laced up the e, even though they do button jn the reg- ulation manner, Ty Wizt oper Arrangement of Flowers \feature of household decoration do more to render a room at- ) than the use of flowers. But arrangement of flowers is rt, demanding study. The Japa- spend years in acquiring this art, y average person gives to the ar- nt of cut flowers no more than is given to the most un- tic of household tasks. first place, most people err in ne Novelties For the Boudoir C B s being uscd (L : worts of ys. 1o at'lh. a8 you may see by the - Ry ploture frames and book Yery dainty and pretty vear ire < Book covers are also | flounce is held in place by a footinz of ng materiale / the matter of vases. A vase should be considereéd always in connection with flowers—not as an object of art by it- self. Vases of distinctive colors should be used carefully—a neutral tint, green or glass vases are safest. If you have vases of very positive shades use them only for flowers with which they will harmonize. Yellow pottery, for example, is lovely if filled with yellow flowers or with a combina- tion of blue and yellow flowers. Low yellow or purple bowls filled with pan- sies are a delight to the eye. Do not hesitate to dispense with ornate vases and substitute for them the most inexpensive of flower holders. A gray ginger jar filled with dusty miller and sweet alyssum is a thing of beauty. The shimimering silver gray of the foliage and the white of the blossoms harmonize perfectly with the soft gray jar. On' the other hand, the most expensive of vases, in itself beau- tiful, may have its beauty nullified by an inharmonfous arrangement of flow- ers. Chianti bottles, ginger jars and gold- fish globes make excellent vases. They are simple and good in their lines and furnish an attractive setting for al- most any flower. Another common mistake in arrang- ing flowers is to overcrowd the vase. Never bunch flowers. Each should be put in the water separately to insure a good effect. A long strip of lead coiled to fit the bottom of vases is the best device for keeping the flowers up- right. It is not so expensive as the china or wire arrangements that can be purchased for ‘the same purpose, and it has the further advantage of be- ing malleable and easily squeezed into a vase of any size. A pretty device for flowers is the Aaron’s rod to hang on the wall. This is merely a stick of bamboo with holes cut between the joints. Water is poured into each opening, and the flowers then set in. Trailing vines— clematis, honeysuckle, etc.—are ceedingly pretty in an Aaron’s rod. Hanging vases for the windows and corners of the room are very attrac- tive and are to be 'had in good colors and lines at small cost. NOVEL USE FOR A JF you @o not want to go to the ex- pense of a bassinet that baby will soon outgrow it is a good idea to utilize an ordinary clothes basket, which may be turned over to its original use ‘when baby is ready for a crib. It pays to get a good quality wicker, for if han- dles give way the contents will come to grief. Select a good size, too, large enough to accommodate an ordinary bed pillow snugly fitted in for a mat- tress. The sides should rise high enough above the pillow on the sides to keep Master Baby safely ensconced. Line the basket with double layers of cotton wadding and after basting this in place cover it with pink, blue or white satin or cambric lining. The bottom of the basket should be put in last to cover the rough edges of the sidés. Now the basket is ready for the third and last covering, which may be CLOTHES BASKET | sheer muslin or point d’esprit or plain net shirred with a heading along the top to hide the top edge of the basket. It is a little troublesome to stitch this into place, but you soon learn to find the spaces in the woven wicker, and heavy thread and a carpet needle will do the rest. The pillow .should have its ordinary white linen or cotton slip, which can be removed every day when the pillow is lifted out to air. A rubber and quilt- ed mat will protect the pillow, and all can be frequently lifted and renewed. The advantage of such a basket is that the baby is protected from draft, and yet the basket is easily carried from one room to another or to the porch if necessary. The outside of the basket is Dbetter left uncovered because it would soon get musty and dirty from usage, and the heayy . willow is suffi- ciently ornamental in itself. akd Attractive TBE vogue of bouffant skirts has made it possible for manufacturers of petticoats to make them as billowy as they please; consequently the petti- coats offered for sale are so attractive that one hardly knows which to choose. The flowered taffeta skirts are so pretty that they never fail to have ad- mirers. A softening touch is given to some of them by the addition of a flounce or two of net, Frequently the Underskirts through {ts center. ITere and there along the cord a group of three ribbon rosebuds will be seen dangling. Very alluring are the petticodts and slips of knife plaited silk. These are sought by women who desire to have the fullness in their skirts without add- ing any unnecessary bulk to their fig- ures. irt. This is made with a well fitting net having a cord of twisted ribbon run yoke, are suspendeod ex- | sJA It is really remarkable how EBONY AND SILK JAPANESE SCREEN PAN sends us many beautiful novelties, but none which we appreciate more than we do the wonderful screens for which that country is famous. Quite new this season Is the twin |trated is a screen of ebony and black Japanese silk hand embroidered in whit stunning a black and white room: can be made—that | from which two circular skirts |is, if the black and white are properly mingied and a bit of bright color, such as | is returning—that is to say, it has been | They are painted with colors which will |a deep rose or pink. is used as a high light. Ius- | DO vou remember that delightful silk braid in loose basket weaves that was used for trimming a number of years ago? Well, it is again in fash- ion. Rows and rows of it are used to trim both wraps and frocks. It comes in varying widths. The favorite ar- rangement is to braid a skirt from the hem to just below the knees with al- ternating widths of the braid, some- times as many as twelve rows in all being used. A hint of the directoire period is seen in afternoon frocks. The note is mas- culine rather than feminine, but in either event the lines of that period are 80 attractive that one cares not wheth- er its masculine or feminine expression is followed. Several afternoon frocks also display an 1880 draping at the back, almost suggesting the bustle, only that the fullness is entirely, accom- plished by the material alone, fold upon fold. The latter frocks are best made of stiff taffeta. The back fullness is then more easily accomplished. Another indication of the return of past fashions is a new dolman wrap quite along original lines. Taffeta in any of the various colors is charmingly employed in the construction of the dolman. “Pinked” quilling usually bor- ders the edges. That wonderfully successful combina- tion of black and white which promises to become staple is, it is rumored, to have a rival. ‘Midnight blue, which has also -experienced an almost unprece- dented popularity, is now being com- bined with white, and at first glance one can scarcely detect the difference. 8o it is that blue and white in stripes, checks and the combination of the plain materials in one frock 18 finding much favor among the really smart. Blue and white, always midnight blue, is also combined in hats and wraps—in everything, in fact, for which the black and white is used. Among sports garments is a most practical, comfortable and smart blan- ket coat. Indeed, if you have an extra steamer rug at home it would be just the thing for the making of the gar- ment. The plalds are us y 1 e, The coat Is made very loose and along taflored lines. There is also a hood attached to it, so that if ove Is In the mountains or aboard ship upon a cool day the head can be snuggled into the hood for comfort. These conts are not usually lined. being practical in this respect for knockabout purposes. Such oat can be made without a 'f‘he Latest Fashion Hints for morning and afternoon wear. In- deed, one suit of lightwelght material displays such a girdle in dull messa- |line draped about the hips. The wide hip girdle is also occasionally worn with a washable separate skirt. il SMART NEW SAILOR HAT. [/XT a recent faghionable gffair a smart | looking young girl wore a rather large night blue sailor hat. It had no trimming except under the brim, wheré it was slightly tiited upward, and thers was applied a big satin rose and fo- liage in purple and dull green. - Funny Little Cubist Tops For' the Kiddies i{hood, of course, or the hood can be | made in detachable form, fastening to the neck and shoulders of the coat with | buttons and buttonholes. | The hip girdle of a season or so ago | seen upon some very new frocks both | JOME new toys have appeared along with the cubist urt, These toys are cut in queer shapes, and they may be used to make animals and cute 1if#¥ dollies, soldier boys, ballet dancers, ete. not wash oft