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" ‘of womankind appear to have [qual changed since the daysi of the ‘when the belles wore the quaint skirts which are struggling so ly to come to life In an alien at- ugh we admire them, as we must, worn upon the stage In their ‘getting of the long ago, We must that the temper of our own makes them seem sadly out of' in general. ‘can sense the romance which N s lurked in the sixtles. We assoclate it in our minds with the clasping arms of tly attired beauties as they bade husbands, lovers and brothers farewell and gave them loyally ‘to the country. But you see the old glamour which in- vested wartimes is over. We are a country essentially of peace, so what will we do with fl&fln& skirts like trumpets? However, here they are, two of them, flanking a sophisticated 1915 frock. The one upon the left is developed in the soft, supple, lustrous goldenrod silk, the skirt very full and trimmed—very much Gfi##%@@#%fl@fi#%@#@@#@# Good Groomlng @' & S0 BGUBHOBRIBLOGBVBBBLOBBOT 18 fs distinctly a period ot good among women. The slov- ly though - perhaps _artistic - looking oman is mo longer in the running. The woman who has the festures of a ' Greek goddess and yet neglects to have ‘her hair properly shampooed and dress- creates more adverse comment than “‘woman of {rregular, even poor, ures who shows the good effect of ul grooming: d grooming is simply immaculate e and lexquisité attention to f the person, but in their anx- acquire this effect womer are adopt cosmetics or to employ for reducing defects wherein the is more undesirable than the itself. The wise woman is she &Jg'.mvhlliuldlhar:ood points so : it they may outshine and attract from her defects. When a defect is so eep rooted as to require radical treat- 48 far better for a woman to ig- its" existence than to endanger mnll appearance, and perhaps w3 If the defect is one which requires sur- gical treatment go to an expert—or en- dure the annoyance of the defect rather than risk what beauty you have by using an acid, the needle or electricity yourself. This caution is especially !.Dp“ca.bla to the busy woman who can give ‘but [little time to the making of her tollet. Take, for instance, obesity cures. We are all asked for diets and systems of exercises for reducing the weight, but it must be borne in mind that the re- duction of weight must invariably be accompanied by a reduction in strength. ‘This means that the woman who sys- tematically enters upon a dietary, bath- ing and exercise system must give her- self over to this entirely, for it will ex~ haust her strength if it removes . the flesh. The woman who does her own housework or the woman who is in business must not undertake banting, violent physical exercise or bathing and combine with these her regulation work. Physique and nerves cannot en- dure the strain. A breakdown is inevi- health, by trying t6 treat herself. i table. What to Plant In Your Garden .in stocking a garden should . the old fashioned hardy They will give flowers from spring until frost in an open r, which may be backed by a ge or fence. ny good garden soll which may be iched with fertilizers deeply dug support them. Avold wet planting oveércrowding. Give each plant .room and a. dozen, or two ints will cover considerable ground. - lants growing to a height of two or less are set twelve inches apart, all others space equal to one-half ir height when developed. This is ‘s general rule for spacing. Second, disperse the plants of spring, for example, the length of the border, among summer -and autumn plants likewise distributed, so that there will it be a time when the border does not pear generally in bloom. This will &) bare, flowerless spaces at any on. ¢ cultivation of perennials is sim- ‘Keeping out weeds, stirring the id, watering in- dry weather or Ing with cut grass from the lawn ¥ loose ht out dead material and tying up tall plants help success. Dielytra or bleeding heart, aquilegia or columbine, summer and fall hardy asters, campanulas, coreopsis, delphini- ums or hardy larkspur, pyrethrum hy- bridum, digitalis or foxglove, funkia or plantain lily, hollyhocks, hibiscus, iris, lychnis, peony, phlox, oriental poppy, spiraea, sweet william and veronica are but a few of the best perennials. Jan, Freezes! Feb. ‘Wheezes! March Breezes! April Sneezes! May Eases! June Pleases! ~—New York Sun. terial and taking trimmed—first with blas bands of the silk, four rows of them, and then gar- lands of pink roses and dainty green leaves picked out against a background of faintest pink, which is the color of the frock. And then the simple little baby bodice with tiny rosebuds. upon the shoulders—how very coy and al- luring the whole effect is, if only we could find an 1860 girl to wear it. But the gown in the center meets all the requirements of 1915. It is chic and most charming and fifty years ‘hence may possibly serve as a sample gown, the of the so called “period” period when we created our own fash: ions while Paris fought in the wars, the period when the militant personality of our girls triumphed even over the copy- ists and created an exclusive style. The gown shown in the center is of supple satin, the very faintest pink in color, ke the heart of an apple blos- som, Over this is hung a sumptuous iridescent tunic and bodice in one, which shimmers under the electric lights like a summer sea. The decollete bodice is edged with iridescent beads, and in the back is poised a butterfly bow of faintly pink illusion with long |ends hanging to the edge of the tunic. All together this gown is extremely smart and eminently suitable for the season’s debutante. At the right is shown a quaintly pret- ty gown following the general lines of the frock upon the left of the picture, though this one is built with a lace un- derskirt. Superimposed over this is a long tunic, of taffeta edged by a cord- | ing and a ruffle and hanging in a coyly irregular fashion to show the lace pet- ticoat. It is trimmed here and there with true lovers' knots made of shirred | ribbon. This tunic hangs from a shirr- NEW COIFFURE AND HAIR ORNAMENTS THIS season there is little choice al- lowed milady where her coiffure is concerned. Dame Fashion has decided that the low hair dress, with a’'soft knot at the neck, is just the thing, the most appropriate ornament being a velvet band, often with rhinestone slides and novelty fastening. And, for/the one ‘who is fortunate enough to have regu- lar piquant features, there s the band with the above details plus a jeweled drop which falls just below the crown. TRAINING THE CUTICLE. THE advice is often given to push back the cuticle with the towel when drying the hands, but this is very apt to break the delicate. skin and cause hangnails. The better plan is to soak the fingers in warm soapy water and then loosen the cuticle by gently working back with an orange wood stick, By’ persistent care for a few weeks the cuticle can be trained to stay back and will require very uulel t enttine ed girdle, to which is attached also u whimsical bit of short waisted chiffon bodice, with wisps of chiffon for sleeves. The costume is in color the tender green of bursting leaves, and for the very young girl, say of sweet sixteen, might be very successfully used for a costume party. & 2 Home F one happens to be near enough to any of the good warehouses to take advantdge of their cold storage ar- rangements for the care of winter gar- ments one will find the prices are not very high for the accommodation, but if one is out of town In the suburbs then the problem is more difficult to solve. Added to the cost of expressage to send things to the store is the incon- venience of having them not avaflable if needed suddenly. For many it seems better to care for the things at home. This will be found a very safe matter, for nearly all homes are more or less provided with burglar alarms of some sort and fire insurance. The cedar closet, if one has been built in the house; if not, the cedar chest, is the *“first aid;” then the new whisky barrel, to whose inside near the top hooks are screwed on which to hang things. After this is filled a small bottle of chloroform placed in the bottom, uncorked, and the barrel top, which is tight fitting, is immediately put on. Nothing creeping or crawling has a single chance of life in the dark depths. After the garments have been thors oughly brushed, pockets turned inside out and spots cleaned off a little dry tobacco, camphor gum or a few moth balls may be folded In the articles. They are put in newspapers, tied and carefully labeled as to the contents, then placed on the shelves in the chest. Do not under any consideration hang the things in the air or sun before pack- ing away, as that gives a chance to the new flyilng Insects to sting them and lay eggs that will hatch damage later on. But in early fall, when the first cold bright days come, air them thor- oughly. This will blow away all pack- ing odors and wrinkles. This applies not only to furs and woolens, but to all ordinary clothing and draperies. Blankets, *if they are not going to be laundered or cleaned, may be whipped, then brushed and cov- ered with tissue paper and slipped into a tar paper bag, which keeps them in excellent shape. Small rugs should be thoroughly ~cleaned, then sprinkled with tobacco; they should be covered | with one thickness of newspaper and rolled, then done up in tar paper, mak- ing certain that the ends are well cov- ered. is | hids 1 A CING ‘em up the back is the latest form of exercise deéviged by the bootmakers for the feminine sex. The conservative front lacing and the more recent radical side lacing are, if & prominent shoe manufacturer is to be believed, to give way, to a rear fasten=s ing characterized 6 turn that portion of the human race which becomes ad- dicted to them Into a set of calisthenic experts that will make Houdini look \like a crowbar in comparison. Already the saleswomen who will 'have to fit customers in the new style |have been thrown into a veritable flut- ter at the prospect. “Our fitting stools will 0 earthly use whatever,” say lhey ».33 getting a woman into a boot ke that will be exactly like shoeing a horse. Perhaps we shall even be forced tg lie prone on the figor in order ta effeet & perfect fit. Alas, for our poor backs!” The plight of the woman who buys ! the boot is no less pathetic than that of the one who sells it, particularly ¥ the former is of considerable avoipdn pois. A whole new set of calisthenics, based on’the principles of those used by the ladies in, the . circus ,who can bend backward and pick up a handker- chief with their teeth, will of necessity come into vogue. In fact, in the opin- fon of those interested In the subject, tying and untying the knots with the ‘eeth may be vastly easler when it must be done from the rear than per- forming the same feat with the fip- gers. Before women achieve the supple- ness essential to a speedy lacing, how+9 ever, it is expected that alarm glock: will have to be set back a whole hall hour, especially for the business wos man whose dutles @lemand her pres- ence downtown at a certain tim However, what is a half hour who style is concerned? NEEDLEWORK NOTES. | WHF‘N cutting out the lining of a blouse yoke be sure to cut u\me same way of the material as the side; otherwise it will be unsatist and will not fit. b Using a warm fron when cuttingout a garment will 'do away with piis ‘) tissue paper patterns. Lay the on the material and press lightly wi the warm iron. The pattern clings to the cloth, Quite the newest way of making a casing to run: ribbén through, is b making a wide catstitch or feather: stitch on the outside of the article be used and through this.running ti ribbon. It holds as well as the ol fashioned way. If a glove gplits at the thumb or n a seam a sure and permanent way (o repair it is to buttonhole the kid, oy either side of the split; then sew th buttonholed edges together. The re sult will be a new, firm seam that wi never tear again. When buttol be sure to take a good hold of K or else the stitches will pull out the kid. Always thread silk into a nesdle-bj putting the end of the sill that exis! before it is unwound from the #pool the eye first. ' If the silk is put in fro the end you break or cut it @ntw more easily than if it is threaded frd the other end, Clip all bastings to removed at five or six inch int They can thén be pulled ‘out witho wrinkling ‘the fabric. l"l , TIRED FEET, ISCOMFORT from standing walking without any &pp cause is often due to a flattening of arch of the foot. Rub the feet witch hazel or alcohol before retirh and bandage them snugly, but not ¥ tight, for several nights. If this do not help them you should wearssol inside the shoes to correct this froul g###@@@##fi##@###”m#“fiflflfi& Storage @@ifi@@@@##@@@####6#%0600“0’ worth considering for another se wear. The heavy leathers, after thoroughly cleaned, should be | olled with neatsfoot ofl, wrapped newspaper, then dropped into a cah' bag, to be hung up in a dry place. Wi; ter patent leather shoes should be But ed, then sponged with milk, stuffedw! tissue paper, rolled in a 1" erd and also dropped into- the bag, It a good, practical idea to remove all the old lacings and put in new and replace buttons at this time, TWO DAINTY. PURSES AT the top of the lllu.tl‘l. shown a purse of black pes with two side portions of patent is of sflver. At the Bpttom i black leather, a novel featurs of is the concealed springs for b Winter boots and shoes come In for |small change. The handie is of heir share of attention if they are leather, . i