New Britain Herald Newspaper, February 26, 1915, Page 11

[ e A= L4 - OV may think that the most important thing about a dress is first to get it, but when you look about you and see so many misfits obviously the important thing is first to plan it. After it is planned and your plans have been deftly executed, however, the next im- portant thing .is to wear the garment properly, and any garment that does mpt bring out the good points of the wearer has failed of its mission, and a woman who does not know the “trick” of wearing a beautiful dress may look as if the clothes were not meant for her at all. It must be remembered that a woman is not made to show off dresses, but that dresses are made to show off the woman. The dress is subsidiary. It #should be designed to bring out the good parts of the wearer and to hide the bad parts. It must be in intimate harmony with its owner; it must be a part of her. Anything which accentu- ates the fact that the dress is not a part of the wearer—that cries out, how- ever softly, ‘‘Don’t “bother looking at the woman who has me on; just look &t me!”—is all wrong. A little, shrinking woman who tries to wear a regal dress is absurd, and an imperial, dominant woman who tries to wear an ingenue gown is & thing for pity, and a dumpy, little fat woman who tries to wear the clothes of wil- lowy youth is a horror. “%Learn to walk. So few women know how. Personally I believe that from earliest childhood a girl should be trained in the old free Greek fashion or in the unconscious way in which the Italian peasant acquires her grace. =N I o - Any woman who will lift her hands above her head and hold in them some small object, like a vase, letting hands and object rest upon her head, and who will then walk for half an hour in her room every morning in that position will acquire the essential grace to wear a dress properly—that is, if she has also got a dress which is harmonious with her. Let her, with her hands holding this object on her head, sway about her room, striving to bring each muscle into harmony. Within a week she will have seen that the waddle, the stiff, awkward gait, has gone to give way to slower, graceful, harmonious move- ments. This exercise and another will do more to make a person know how to wear clothes than anything else I know. The other exercise is to place a little ball on the floor and with a long, swinging motion of the arm pick it up, bending slowly and easily first one knee, then the other, in doing so. ‘We then have first, through the care- ful planning of the dress, harmony be- tween it and its owner. Then we must have it deftly built, and then the wearer must be in con- ~ Who Changes the Styles? ~ SOME one has said that the only rea- son ' women have : for changing styles so often is that they may at- tract attention to themselves. Men go on wearing the same style of hat, the damé cut of clothes, season after sea- gon, year after year. There are some minor changes, but nothing so radical, as a rule, as to make last season’s derby o, last winter's overcoat grotesque. Many middle aged or elderly men who are conservative in their ideas about dress have their clothes made on ab- Smart Kiddies’ Hats (CHILDREN'S hats of natural colored chip straw. ' One hat consists of a round crown, with a narrow, drooping b the edge finished with shirred { b’Syn ribbon, with a trimming of the ribbon in butterfly bows around the crown, in which are caught clusters of small flowers. The second hat is a roll- ing brimmed sailor, with a simple trimming of biue satin ribbon and tiny yellow flower buds. solutely the same lines year after year. How different it is with woman. One year her skirts are so tight she can hardly walk in them; the next they have gone to the extreme of fullness. In headgear there is a veritable riot hats, high hats and low hats, hats with foliage or plumes and hats without either follow in quick succession. Men say the purpose of this change is to at- tract their attention. It is a doubtful question whether our critic or any other man is able to draw the fine line that separates the ornamental from the purely useful, either in woman’s dress or in his own. May there not be some of the peacock in us all? But if a woman is thinking only of attracting attention to herself the de- mure little Quakeress has the best of {us all in this riot of change and of color. Why not place some of the blame for the fast and furious changes in woman’s dress upon the manufac- i turers of feminine garments, who find it exceedingly profitable to turn out new styles with every change of season? NEW SANITARY DEVICE. O\:E of the most acceptable of the. latest inventions for the home is a sanitary underground garbage re- celver in ‘which the garbage can be cremated if one so desires. Its price is within the reach of almost every householder, and it solves the garbage can problem in every particular. Its simplicity is at once its attraction and its value. Buried underground (with only its hood in view) at a con- venient distance from the kitchen door, it is not only accessible, but sealed against intrusion by mice or flies and the throwing off of odors. The inner can is inclosed in an outer one of six- ten gauge American ingot iron that will not rust in the ground, and the combination of the two cans renders it a freezing proof receiver. The dome hood top is cast iron made in a single casting, readily removed by the collector. It is fitted with an au- tomatic hopper that closes when not in of change. Broad hats and narrow | P@ dition to wear the garment properly. Every woman aims to attain a cer- tain standard, and that standard is looking her best in the best kind of clothes she can get, and when we say “She dresses like a lady” we mean only that she has arrived at this standard. Illustrated are seven pretty and up to the minute models for spring wear. The one upon the extreme left is of sand colored bedford cord, very jaunty and with excellent lines, though no- ticeable for its simplicity. It has a moderately flaring skirt, with a fault- lessly “fitting box coat, confined at the waist line by a belt. Patch pockets are at the sides, which are ornamented with pearl buttons. The hat which accompanies this gown is of sand colored straw trimmed with prim little futurist flowers made RALD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 25, 1915. shows how line and trimming dictates for hats which finitely better taste than was possessed seasons ago. Meaningless bunches feathers, masses of foolish flowers and | ribbon have very generally disappeared. somewhat hard on dealers in such mer- | chandise, many of whom ; of the past few years have been put in a state of bankruptcy through the ar- } the flowers encircle the crown, being [lines. The skirt is moderately flaring, {out the quaint effect] tistic education of women in sartorial [set very closely together and without |which seems to be the tendency of | | the addition of foliage. In this par- |military dresses, and the coat has a Once upon a time we had two milli- | ticular it is worth noting that up to |unique style feature in the high placed U one | the present time the indications favor |belt. { could complain, but now we have at|low, flat garnitures, which with between season intro- least four, You see, the suppl great, so naturajly less effects in skirt closes at th finished with a ro The bodice is dist] tending in a long t effect because of their | high placed belt. # ets placed on the brown silk. Next their finished simplicity of line and trimming | Of course one must include the all| flower hat. Spring could not possibly | covert cloth trotigl be ushered in without the assistance of | is short, and the the flower turban. It offers a direct | With a military 6 change from the hat of fur and velvet | trimming of self 60 with 'which my lady has crowned her |skunk collar is def costume during the past three or four | collar of the covert months, and, as in past seasons to the| Next js pictured number of four or five. Red is much in |frock. The overdre evidence in these hats | neck to hem with Cerise, geranium, American Beauty, | The underskirt petunia and flame color are all included | Irish lace, and the ductions of all manner of new and near |in the gay and festive scale of red.|med with an edging new effects, and, what with trying to|And with the red tones are shown cer- |same lace combin keep up with the procession, it is a|tain of the purple nuances. The latter | broidery. The bod difficult experience, not only for the |are very rich and elegant and consort | with lace and embrg fashionable woman nd the multitude | well with the early epring costume of |& charming little that follow in her steps, but likewise |navy, putty color or dark brown; also |White striped silk. for the wholesale and retail dealers in|it may be effectively worn with a white |lar, and the short millinery. tailored costume. rippling skirts is d One of the trimming novelties pro- But enough about hats. The gown |character. .The jected on spring chapeaux refers to|next shown is of covert cloth, a cloth |satin quaint little flowers made entirely of ([which is having an unprecedented | Quaint and “old straw in natural or dyed colors that |popularity, and, of course, the gowns |shown upon the ex] e | give a little splash of gayety to hats of | nnot escape the military tendency, |trimmed with the monotone colors. In some instances |so this one is cut along semimilitary |and puffing. The o have the ad- | varitage of being more youthful in|gown of sand colored silk gabardine. | Next is shown a nifty little afternoon | OAAAAAAAAAAAAAL i » w ABOUT THE GOLDEN RULE w VVVVYYVVIVUVVVVYYVVVYVVVVFTVYVYYVVVIVY YYVVYVVVVVVVVVYVe | oYVYVVVVVYVVVVYY THE Golden Rule seems rather out of date! In its place we find a creed which runs somewhat as follows: “Do unto others as they do unto you.” This is far nearer the general rule than the nobler creed. The average woman and most men seem to prefer an eye for an eye and a tooth for a tooth to return- ing love for hate. Yet if they real- ized how much more practical it is to follow the latter course perhaps this ever present spirit of “paying people back in their own coin” would die a natural death. “Practical 2" you may question, granting that it may be the finer course to follow, but failing to see its prac- ticality. Yet practical is just the word to fit this case, for you are the one who benefits by following the path of the Golden Rule, and you are also the one who suffers most when you pursue thoughts of vengeance. Paying a person_ back!.:How often we hear the PiirdSe! The business man who has been overridden by a rival longs for tHe:opportunity of paying him back. The woman with social am- bitions who is snubbed by one ahead of her on the social ladder harbors re- sentment and thoughts of vengeance for months and even years. The girl whose vanity has been hurt by an- other’'s success with her own beaus is fixed. in her determination to pay back her rival “in her own coin.” And even the child who has been betrayed to teacher or parent by the tales of a comrade doubles his little fists and tells “the bunch” to watch him get even with that tattletale. And who suffers most from all these thoughts of vengeance? They certainly do not harm any one but the thinker, for they can touch no one else. But the thinker of such thoughts pays in full for all the hate he or she wastes on the other girl or fellow. It does not reach the intended victim, but reacts on the avenger. When you think of your thoughts as use and easily opened with the foot. power you will be more careful of ers to help at them in ‘to see how intensely return love for hate. are helping yourself immeasurably, All Over this light, yc s so doing you THIS lace underwaist s made to wear | evening gowns or shirt waists AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAALAAAAAAAMAALALAAAALAMAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA . $| Turn Your Toes Straight [DEW women walk correctly. There|the suffering s are many reasons for this, but the |alarming two most conspicuous are carelessness | 1f the weight is ¢ them. Powers they are, but only pow- at the same time you a2re showing that |in holding out the chest and the habit | 8ide of the foot, Ii or harm yourself. other how much more sensible and wise dons are stretched enough love you will find that all your |find there is no weight or strain on the old difficulties will be smoothed away that your fr greatest power the about you as well as yourself, whe: hate is a boomerang power, being out only to recoil on your own head. PETTICOATS A LA MODE. I s somewhat diff ecessor: anging lines in outer appar S flounce There are others that are only mod- erately wide through the hem. One |sition of the foot | reason = anced for the maintenance of the comparatively narrow petticoat is that with the revival of the very wide outer skirt, particularly as advo- cated for dance purposes, the need for the clinging foundation skirt is at once apparent Linge le makers in Paris have not been scriously disturbed by the war. Naturally this work is done by women, It is built of net over lace, the half sleeves being of net.” get it transported to this country. and the greater trouble has been to ds will multiply and |is highest and that the foot has perfect that you will be surrounded by affec- |freedom and e tion in every direction. Love is the e i, uplifting all TTICOATS of muslin are back again in the feminine wardrobe after an enforced retirement of several 1sons’ duration. They are shaped rently from their pred- having been influenced by the yme of the new models incline to close fitting hip lines and a flaring of walking with toes turned out It s to love than to hate. You are not| ;o 14y haye always besn taught S0 OF POSItiORTNE only uplifting yourself, but you are = e ey way helping to uplift others, just by the|that it was the height of inelegance 10| This displacement Dower 'of your thoughts for Eoof turn their toes in; that to turn the toes strain on ligaments If you think it is impossible to sub- |daintily outward was the only proper |a pressure on the ne stitute love for hate against those |way for ladies to walk. to account for the whom you are accustomed to think of | Physical culturists now tell us that | from flattened feet. as your enem prove to yourself how |the foot straight forward in walking is | Undoubtedly mud mistaken you Do one of them a|the only correct position, the only one | traced to improper R big favor and vou will be surprised to |that will put the pressure where ft| When the farch ha feel what a change your thoughts un- |should be—that is, across the front of habits are not easy dergo, and, moreover, you will see how | the foot, including the great toe, along | least we can previ {their sentiments toward you Wwill |the outer border of the foot, the little | forming them. change. Love will change the whole [toe side and the heel world in your eyes. If you give out| Place your feet in this position. You inner side of the foot where the arch [ Heart Sha \ [ — asticity of action Now turn the toe out and let the weight fall on the inside of the foot that is where the arch is highest The result is not only a strain on the arch, but a bulging out of the ankles and a strain at the knees, all of which | | would indicate that this position is a strain on the muscles and ligaments of | | the foot and ankles Savage races that walk with bare |feet or merely a protection like moc- casing walk with the feet pointing straight forward or turning a trifle to- | ward each other ! Professional fencers and boxers al- | ways keep the feet parallel or turned | inward. | | This 1s undoubtedly the strong po- | Dancers point the toes outward, but | they also make their movements out- ward in the direction that the line of | the foot indicates Moreover, the good effect that danc- m‘ ing has on the feet is undoubtedly due to its strengthening of the arch by the constant up and down movements of |[IHE bag llustrated | the toes. cnvenient 39eil | This to be recommended to any |chiefs. Cardboard g | one suffering from weak arches. broidered linen is th The prevalence of broken arches and ita development,