Grand Rapids Herald-Review Newspaper, October 14, 1908, Page 9

NO LONGER SEVERE SEASON'S TAILOR-MADES INCLINE TOWARD FUSSINESS, Marked Change Noted in Costumes intended for Street Wear—Man- nish Lines and Cut No Longer in Style. The tailor-made suit has reached int in the estimation of the » woman that it is her first pur- t the opening of each season. indulge in odd conceits or nenis with her house when it comes to the tailor- in which she makes her appear- > on the street this must come e hands of its maker absolute- t to the smallest detail. al tendency of the tailor- this fall is toward heavi- Designed for Slender Figure. nd, alas, somewhat toward The mannish lines and cut have disappeared, save for storm suits and hardwear suits. The cloths employed are very y in appearance if not in actual weight. The smooth, silky broadcloth will be used only by the daring few ry OLD CLOTHES AND NEW STYLES. “Fixing Over” Always Apt to Be a Troublesome Question, This is a question that troubles every woman more or less when she is confronted by old clothes and new styles Possibly you have in your wardrobe two old skirts of the same al which may be combined sat- torily. As long as the two ma- ls are of the same color great lib- may be taken, but when plain terial is to be combined with fig- ured it is necessary to use one ma- terial for all the long lines and the other for the trimming. It is well worth while to alter your sleeves, for no part of the costume changes in style so quickly and rad- ally as the sleeve, and an old-fash- foned sleeve often causes an other- wise good-looking waist to look out of date. This season the shoulders of shirt waists and blouses are deeper than heretofore, so it is necessary to hen the shoulder line somewhat putting in the modernized d sleeve. Braiding is used to great advantage in fixing over last season’s frocks. A yoke or even a whole front of a waist may be pieced many times and the seams entirely hidden by the design. The Waigt of Heavy Lace. One of the Bacon's fancies is for the waist of heavy lace, Irish, Italian piece lace, trimmed with bands, pings and strappings of linen. These waists are very Open and are worn over colored slips or over a slip of*white. Fancy rather turns toward the a ite slip these days, and even in winter it bids fair to be popular. The overwaist of heavy Irish lace, with its lining of white taffeta, is both beautiful and durable. The Latest Fad. e always fashions in hold- dress, and the latest is to 1p the gown a trifle to the front er to show the smart shoe and A novelty that comes from s to wear low black slippers colored stockings, and occa- who insist upon simplicity and slender proportions. The average shopper will fall into line and select one of the mixed, heavy looking cloths. These are not necessarily rough, but they are woven in the most won- derful combinations of colors and pat- terns. Cloudy effects of all sorts pre- vail, and while stripes are much used, they do not appear in the bold, direct weaves that we had during the spring and summer. The darker stripe gives the appear- ance of receding into the background or melting into the ighter one. Among the popular combinations along this line are black and leather color, green and brown, prune and black, a very rich magenta or a claret and plum color also combined with black.’ In fact much dull, dark red, verging on purple is shown, in combination with black, a combination by the way, which we have not seen since our grandmothers wore it. More browns and greens are shown in combination than the long popular blue and green. Braid will be used in great quanti- ties for trimming, also appliques of cloth outlined by braid. Buttons are very large, and collars and trimming on cuffs show a marked return to velvet. Skirts vary tremendously. While there is a pronounced movement against the plaited skirt, as it was worn this past season, unquestionably plaits in various forms will appear on however, has disappeared, and certain- ly all skirts are longer. For shopping and all ordinary street use, they barely escape the ground. For semi-tailored costumes, suitable for calling, church, ete. the touches. The illustration shows a model pe- culiarly suited to the tall, slender fig- ure. The skirt is a perfectly fitted princess pattern, cut almost to reach the bust line. It fits snugly about the waist and hips, then just above the knees shows inverted plaits which give it the necessary flare. To Clean White Silk. If one desires snowy whiteness, silk should never be allowed to become badly soiled—that is, so that the silk is yellowed. Dust the garment and wash in rather warm (not scalding hot) water with white soap. Rinse well, the last water being quite blue. Hang up and allow to get just dry enough to press nicely with a warm iron. If this is followed out, white silk will stay white. Care must be taken with the blue water not to have it too blue, and yet blue enough to help the silk retain the “new” shade. Should silk merely need sponging, no iron should touch the surface. If rolled while damp on a broomstick, it will dry in a day or so. When there are grease spots, apply the time-hon- ored remedy, powdered magnesia, to the wrong side under a cold pressure; then, after some hours, rub off; and if not wholly cleansed, apply again. AAA AA AAA AAD CUT IN GRACEFUL LINES. Indoor Costume Made Up of Saxe. Blue Eolienne. For this graceful gown, Saxe-blue eolienne is chosen. The skirt is a lit- tle high waisted at the back, is very full and slightly trained. White tucked chiffon is used for the material is gathered twice on cuffs. sionally the heels are made to match the hue of the silken hose.—Home Chat. Materials required: Eight the new skirts. The plain kilted skirt, | skirt | Clean Milk Cannot Be One of the most important things in connection with the production of clean milk is that of a clean barn. Without it, absolutely pure milk can- not be produced. Time was when any old place was considered good enough for the cow, and the cow barn was synonymous with filth and foul smell. Nowadays, however, farmers are coming more and more to realize that successful dairying cannot be carried on without paying due aiten- tion to sanitary stable conditions. Light, ventilation, cleanliness are all matters that must be given considera- tion if the cows ‘are to be kept healthy and the milk product is not contam- inated before it can be removed from the stable. An ideal barn for cows is a one- story structure of wood with plenty of light and provided with the King system of ventilation. The floor, wail and manger should be of cement; the ceiling may well be of lath and plas- ter, and swing stanchions should be used for ties. In a building of such construction it was found that the cement floor | was too hard for the cows to stand on | and was the cause of various troubles, |such as garget, etc.; consequently it THE WINTERING OF CATTLE By Director H. J. Waters, Mis- souri Experiment Station. In general the age of the animal will affect materially the kind, quality and amount of feed that may profitably be used in wintering. In other words, the age will determine largely whether they are to be fed liberally on palatable and nutritious feeds, or to be roughed through on coarse fodders of the cheapest sort. Young cattle will require the former class of feeds in more liberal quanti- ties, while the older cattle will be able to utilize to advantage the poorer and coarser grades. This is prin- cipally true because it is more impor- tant to keep the animals gaining stead- ily at the age of 6 to 18 months than later. Checking the rate of gain after 24 months of age, when the rate of growth has naturally declined, and when the tendency of the animal to lay on fat begins to assert itself, will make much less difference than if it be checked in the earlier stages when the tendency to grow and not to fat- ten is much more marked. It is believed that to make growth at the natural or proper time, that is, when the animal is young, and when the tendencies of the entire or- ganism are to convert food into growth, and when it may be made with the least expense of food, room, labor and investment, will be highly advantageous as compared with so jeeoae the animal as to restrict the growth at this age and depend upon making up this deficiency by liberal feeding later. In fact, it is believed that from birth until the steer goes to grass at the age of 12 months, there should be sufficient food of a palatable and nutritious character to supply the re- quirements of the maximum growth of which each individual is capable, with- out laying on any considerable quanti- ty of fat. This is, of course, on the supposition that they are not to be fed out as baby beef. In case they are to be made into baby beef, naturally the quicker they are made fat, the greater the profit in the feeding. The first winter, between the ages of 6 and 12 months, is not the time to attempt to utilize cheap, coarse fodders ex- tensively, like stover, etc. These ma- terials should be used chiefly on older cattle. It goes without saying that from 12 to 18 months of age the cattle should receive an abundance of nu- deep yoke and the mitten cuffs, ihe]|tritioug grass, so as to promote a uni- the] form and rapid growth or to approxi- shoulder, and is set to the yoke unde1| mate the full capacity of the animal a band of giace silk to match the ma] for growth and to lay on as much fat terial; silk straps and bows trim the}as possible, for gains at pasture are cheap, and all the fat it is possible to satin 42 inches wide, 1% yards chif| minimum of expense. fon, one-half yard silk, two buttons. MUST BE SANITARY Produced If It Is Not. Stall with Panel Wooden Floor, was later covered with two-inch matched pine flooring, which gave better results. In building again we would substi tute panel fioors for stalls, as shown in an illustration. Two pieces 4x4 inches by 3 feet are laid in the con- crete, and a panel three feet wide made of 2x6-inch matched plank nailed to them. The panel projects over the gutter about one inch. A space of six inches is left between panels which is cemented level with the top of the plank. This admits of taking up a panel and putting in a new one without disturbing the rest of the floor. In putting down a floor in a new barn, or in replacing an old floor, it is recommended that tar be used in the joints and on the lower surface of the floor. In the construction of a barn intend- ed for the production of certified milk care should be taken to have as few posts as possible, and peferably no cross beams or braces should be ex- posed. The interior should be smooth with no place for the lodgment of dust. With the construction of such char- acter that a barn may be kept clean, it only remains to use energy, water, and washing powder. As to the winter treatment from the ages of 18 to 24 months, all will de pend upon what the immediate future of animal is to be. If it is to be grazed the following summer as a two-year old, it should be made to utilize the cheap fodders on the farm, eat out the stalk fields, ete. In any case, il should not be permitted to lose in weight, but should be made to gain liberally, so long as it does not lay on any fat. The laying on of fat at this junc: ture is unprofitable if the animal is grazed, for two reasons. First, it is unnecessarily expensive to make fat by partial feeding. As has already been pointed out, gains made on anything less than full feed are made at a cost that increases di- rectly as the quantity of food is de creased. Second, fat on an animal affects its ability to make rapid and economical gains the following summer at grass, as has been clearly shown by our re sults where cattle had been made to gain different amounts in winter and were grazed together the following summer. Clean Milk on the Farm. — Clean milk is better than pasteurized milk. The pasteurizing of milk is for the sake of destroying the disease germs in it or the too numerous acid ferments. The time will come when all milk will be produced under such cleanly condi- tions that pasteurization will not be desirable. Even now, the producers of certified milk do not pasteurize, as they say their milk does not need it. On the farm it is possible to entirely con- trol the production of milk and make sure that it is perfectly clean when drawn. But to get such milk some of our cow stables we have seen will have to be radically changed in their general arrangements. Harden the Woo here are many who underestimate the lasting quality of posts cut from catalpa groves of less than five years’ growth. However, it is a very common practice to cut the trees when they are not sufficient- ly well formed for such use. A tree should have sufficient time to harden, no matter how large in diameter it may be; and this is eventually found to be right. While the catalpa is quick to mature into suitable timber it is hardly ready for use as fence posts at five years except in some isolated eases. It would likely prove more sat- isfactory all around if the trees were allowed to remain in the grove for ten years. A Variety of Crops.—It is profitable to grow a variety of crops rather than one, as this gives crops to be market- ed at different times of year. This in- creases the regularity of the farmer’s income and distributes it over a great- er period. This in turn enables him to do business on a smaller capital. Make Fences Strong. — Make the yard:|make here will be made at the very | fences so strong that the animals can- not get through them. BRIDGE EVERY MILE THAT IS UNIQUE. Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul Rail road Has New Record for Num- ber of Bridges In a Single Territory. One of the most remarkable stretches of railroad tra:k in the world will be encountered/ by the pas- sengers who, within a Jaw months, will be able to take passuge for east- ern cities over the new Chicago, Mil- waukee & St. Paul, when he passes along the Musselshell river, separat- ing Fergus and Yellowstone counties. The stretch referred to is 115 miles in length and in traveling over this sec- tion the passenger will go from Fer- gus into Yellowstone county 59 times and return into Fergus county 58 times during the ride. He will thus have crossed the county line separat- ing the two counties 117 times. When it is considered that the line which separates the two political divisions is nothing more nor less than the Musselshell river, the feat will become even more remarkable. For each crossing of the line there is a bridge, hence 117 bridges have been con- structed in a distance of 115 miles. This is an average of more than one bridge to every mile, and 117 separate opportunities for the despondent pas- senger desiring to commit suicide by drowning. This fact was included in the report of the new road filed with the state board of equalization, and shows the amount of track it had on March 1, which will be subject to taxation this year. The report indicates the point where the road enters the state, and follows the course of its line through Fergus county. “The line enters the state and passes easterly through Custer county to the county line be- tween Yellowstone and Fergus coun- ties,” says the report. “Continuing in a generally easterly direction it crosses the Musselshell river, which is the dividing line between the county of Fergus, on the north side, and the county of Yellowstone, on the south side of the river, 117 times, passing thereby into Fergus county 59 times and from Fergus county into Yellow- stone county 58 times.” The report shows further that the road has a total of 174.68 miles of roadway in the state, with 14.90 miles of siding. This length of rail is di- vided between four counties as fol- lows: Custer, roadway 78.20, side- track 7.47; Meagher, roadway, 2.07, sidetrack 1.28; Yellowstone, roadway 30.41, sidetrack 3.10; Fergus, roadway 40, sidetrack 3.05. Coming up Sixteen- Mile canyon in Meagher and Fergus counties the railroad has been con- structed, and crosses the creek more times, if possible, than the old road. The Montana railroad formerly held the record for the number of bridges in a given stretch in Montana. It had two bridges to every mile. Now, how- ever, it is probable that in a stretch of almost 200 miles the Milwaukee holds the world’s record for bridges. The bridges have been constructed in such great numbers in order to follow an air line as nearly as possible, and also to eliminate grades to some extent.— Great Falls (Mont.) Tribune. Track-Walker’s Narrow Escape. Martin Banes is a track-walker on the New Orleans & Northeastern rail- road, and he recently had an exciting race with a special train which he is not likely to forget. Martin has a track tricycle, and his employment is to guard the long trestle over Lake Pont- chartrain, and to follow all trains, so as to extinguish whatever coals may have dropped from the engine in its transit across the trestle. One evening about six o'clock he started out, and when about two miles out on the trestle he heard the ominous rumbling of wheels. No train was scheduled for that hour, and hence no danger was apprehended. But a train was certainly coming, and it suddenly flashed fipon his mind that it was a special. A desperate contest then followed between muscle and steam. The peril of the track-walker urged him to superhuman efforts in plying the tri- cycle so as to reach a point of safety. The race was a very short one, how- ever. The engine gained and present- ly there was a bump and the track- walker found himself clinging to the cow-catcher. Fortunately the engineer had noticed the obstacle in the gloom and had slackened speed, so the track- walker escaped with some severe bruises, although the tricycle was completely wrecked. It was a terrible scare, however, and now the track-walker never ventures out, even in daylight, without a lan- tern.—St. Louis Republic. Second Great Canadian Road. For the first decade of the twentieth | century one of Canada’s greatest ac- complishments will be the completion of the dominion’s second transconti-; nental railway. The Grand Trunk has finished its prairie section from Win- nipeg to Edmonton. From Edmonton to the coast, 700 miles, through the mountains, three years more will be needed. The work is exceedingly diffi- cult and expensive. Saving Bank for Employes. In order to encourage thrift among its employes the Northwestern Rail- way Company of England some years ago established a savings bank at which deposits as low as sixpence are received, four per cent. interest being paid on accounts up to £200 and 2% per cent. on sums in excess of that amount. - DRAGS YOU DOWN. Backache and Kidney Trouble Slowly Wear One Out. Mrs. R. Crouse, Fayette St., Man- chester, Ia., says: “For two years my > back was weak and rheumatic. Pains ran through my back, hips and limbs. I could hardly get about and lost much sleep. The action of the kidneys was much disordered. I began using Doan’s 2 Kidney Pilis and the result was remarkable. The kidney action became normal, the backache ceased, and my health is now un- usually good.” Sold by all dealers. 50 cents a box Foster-Milburn Co., Buffalo, N. Y. The position a man gets away from home is never as good as his folks say it is. How’s This? We offer One Hundred Dollars Reward for any case of Catarrh that cannot be cured by Hall's Catarrh Cure. F. J. CHENEY & CO., Toledo, 0, We, the undersigned, have known F.’J. Cheney for the last 15 years, and belleve him perfectly hon- orable in all business transactions and financially able to carry out any obligations made by his firm. Waipixa, Kinwax & MARVIN, | Vholesalg Druggists, Toledo. O. Hal's Catarrh Cure is taken internally, acting directly upon the blood and mucous surfaces of the system. Testimonials sent free. Price 75 cents per Dottie. Sold-by all Druggists. ‘Take Hall's Samily Pills for constipation. The older a man grows the longer he looks at a contract before sign: ing it. Habitual Conshpation Mey be permanently overcome by proper personal efforts with the assistance of the one truly beneficial toxative remedy, Syrap of figs and Mixiv ofSenna; which enables oneto form vegular habits daily so that assistance to nae, ure may be pradually dispensed wit! when no longer needed asthe best of vemedies,wi en Yequired, arc to assist nature and not to supplant the nature al functions, which must depend alli mately upon proper nourishment, proper efforts,and right living generally, To get its beneficial effects, always uy the —, ae Syrup4figs« Elixir} Sema CALIFORNIA Fic Syrup Co. ony SOLD BY ALL LEADING DRUGGISTS, one size only, regular price 50 per Bottle HE WAS SAFE. Offered a Big Reward and Let It Go at That. He had no love for his wife’s pet dog; neither had any one else, for that maiter, except his wife. Yet when it mysteriously disappeared one day he »d $100 reward for its re- covery. “But I thought,” said Tomkins to the advertiser, “you hated that dog like poison?” “Pin “Why on earth, then, do you offer such a big reward for its return?” “T like to please my wife.” “Well, that may be; but that re- ward is sure to bring the dog back.” “I think not,” said the other, with a knowing smile; “that is, unless some one saw me bury it in the garden.” Eagle Dropped Prey in Town Yard. Eagles still hover over the that make the Cumberland } noted. John H. Horchler, and en found a pheasant fluttering in hi: at Cumberland and observed a large eagle flying away. The eagle had dropped the pheasant and made frantic but unsuccessful ef- forts to recover it, flying into the yard, but was frightened away by the presence of Mr. Horchler, who found the pheasant ffuttering with jagged holes in his neck from the eagle’s talons. WANTED TO KNOW The Truth About Grape-Nuts Food. It doesn’t matter so much what you hear about a thing, it’s what you know that counts. And correct knowledge is most likely to come from personal experience. “About a year ago,” writes a N. Y. man, “I was bothered by indigestion, especially during the forenoon. I tried several remedies without any perman- ent improvement. “My breakfast usually consisted of oatmeal, steak or chops, bread, coffee and some fruit. “Hearing so much about Grape-Nuts, I concluded to give it a trial and find out if all I had heard of it was true. “So I began with Grape-Nuts and cream, 2 soft boiled eggs, toast, a cup of Postum and some fruit. Before the end of the first week I was rid of the acidity of the stomach and felt much relieved. ~ “By the end of the second week all traces of indigestion had disappeared and I was in first rate health once more. Before beginning this course of diet, I never had any appetite for lunch, but now I can enjoy a hearty meal at noon time.” “There’s a Rea- an Name given by Postum Co., Battle Creek, Mich. Read “The Road to Well- ville,” in pkgs. Ever read the above letter? A new One appears from time to time. They are genuine, true, and full of human interest. —d