Evening Star Newspaper, January 22, 1933, Page 35

INDAY STAR, WA Contrast in New Fashions 1INGTO D. 29 24, C, J JARY Or; Beginning February 1 the chiefs of the various arms and services in the ‘War Department will prepare Form No. 0761 (Adjutant General’s Office) only I T 2.0 ice nt group. chiet of or ice, in g rec- ommendation for appointment, will, if desired for arm and service assignment group, make a request to that effect. If no such request is made by the chief of arm or service, one copy of War ent A. G. m_No. 170 be sent to the corps area com- mander with notice of appointment. Raceipt of that copy will cate to the corps area commander that the appointee has been placed in the corps area assignment group effective upon acceptance by him of the appointment tendered. This procedure applies to all appointments, notice of which is sent out from the Adjutant General's Office on or after February 1, 1933. Two instructional conferences, that of the Quartermaster Corps and the Judge Advocate General, will be held at District Reserve headquarters to- morow evening. Reserve quartermas- ters will meet under First Lieut. G. M. Grimes, who will discuss motor pro- curement and remount procurement. Reservists of the Judge Advocate Gen- eral’s nt will meet in Room {03 "o the Walker-Johnson Bullding under the direction of Lieut. Col. J. I McMullen, who will take up the patent activities of the War Department. Reserve officers of Coast Artillery and the Air Corps will hold their confer- ences at Reserve headquarters Tuesday evening. Maj. E. B. Gray will conduct the Coast Artillery meeting. At the Air Corps meeting Capt. J. C. Kenney will discuss attack aviation. Maj. J. D. Arthur, jr., will discuss at the Engineer meeting & map problem and water supply Wednesday evening. Military Intelligence Reserve officers of the District will meet at headquarters on this same evening. Following a dis- cussion of the activitles of G-4, a film will be shown. Signal Corps Reservists will meet at | headquarters Thursday evening, at which will be discussed signal com- munication with a Cavalry division. | The officers conducting this conference include Maj. Guy N. Church, Capt. H. E. Thomas and Lieut. Heinrich. The chemical warfare conference, to be held at Reserve headquarters Friday | evening under Maj. L. A. Fox, medical | advisor to the chief of chemical war- fare service, will be for medical Re- servists of the District as well as for chemical Reserve officers. The subject | of this lecture will be “Can Bacterin, | Germs or Disease Be Used as a Weapon of Warfare?” Two first lleutenants of the District, W. & J. SLOANE From left to right: A youthful black canton crepe dress is trimmed with a demure collar of white organdie, embroidered and tucked. A printed scarf in floral design is inserted in the sleeves of a black and white printed dress in pen and ink design. Three bows of white organdie and starched lace provide the smart touch of white on u dr ss of black matelasse crepe. A dress of printed rough crepe in a black and white checked effect has a demure white collar and a jabot lined with white, Unusual Weaves Appear, Give Character to Models BY SYLVESTRE DORIAN. Director of Paris Fashion Service. e The writers of the Paris P mcln this series of articles, coll. ~Bruyere. ~ Cheruit, L ) Hubert oulang PARIS, January 14 HE gpecial Riviera collections, being shown for those fcrtunate ladies who can spend the cold months in_the sunny resorts of | Southern France, give full ex- pression to ideas that were scarcely more_than_ hinted at in the earlier showings of midseason fashions. These charateristics _are all retained but amplified. What was blue then is still bluer now, and what was but brownish has developed into actual brown. A straight, sedate line pre- dominates, with no change in silhou- ctte, so that a line drawing of this season’s dress is not distinguishable from last season’s; but ed Sketch you will percieve ne res, more studied and unusual weaves, the surfaces of dozens of fabrics having an altogether unaccustomed and delightful countenance, These new materials give to the new medels their chief character. With few exceptions the waistline is in its nor- mal place. The natural shoulder, with sleeves let into the neckband of the material at the back, caught up to the material in front by a seam running the whole length of the arm, is a striking item. One notices a strong tendency toward the wide, flat yoke that forms the top of the bodice and a part of the sleeve. There is sleeve- fullness at the elbow. * ok k APES, especially in daytime dress, remain in great vogue, replacing sleeves or covering tight sleeves. New cuts, some with scalloped edges, others with notched edges, are shown, and I have seen a few with ragged edges that were effectice. These may be excessively plain, or embroidered along the edge, or piped, or bordered in a number of original ways. A few sensational models have been seen, with only three-quarters of a capelet, leaving the clear impression of a short cape from which a section had been cut away; & half-cape effect was also seen once, and the cape in con- trasting colors, cne side one color and the other side another, has had a limited run. One such model produced a contrast of fabric rather than color, and each half was in a different black material, which was interesting because this studied effect was only perceptible on close observation. A fashion always derives much favor from having dif- ferent values seen a few yards away and nearby. That was the psycho- logical explanation of the vogue a few seasons back of the dark coat worn over the very bright dress. The wearer a) yzl"’dl away, had one aspect, then with the removal of the coat an entirely different one, and this fashion had what in Paris is called a succes fou. R FOR evening there are many drap- ings in the Grecian manner; there is a suggestion of the Prin- cess gown, with draping at the walst running on to the top of the bodice almost without decollete in front, even when the shculders are bare, some hollowed out as far as the walst. A dignified simplicity predominates in this domain of dress. Little trimming, if any, is used. There is a sumptuous disregard of foreign ornament, the regal richness of the cut and fabric being sufficient in the hands of the masterly draper, who holds the folds in place by a jewel motif. A long velvet redingote is the right comple- ment to these evening Short-nap furs for daytime wear, g with the coat on, a few |qr but these are used sparingly. You may observe in any fashionable tea- place, for example, fifteen dresses or ccats on which fur is used, but all the fur observed, if put together, would not be sufficlent to make one complete coat. One woman will have a fur handbag, another a mere suspicion of fur on her turban, while a third will stop at three or four fur buitons on the front of her dress or the fastening of her coat. Fex is the only long-haired fur in | vogue. ~ Astrania and other cloth-furs | closely imitating the real oncs, are abundantly employed for scarfs, sashes, small garments, usually to match the |hats The tendency for next summer is toward a dress in two different ma- terials, the body of the garment, that part which holds and molds the ,flgure, being in substantial solid color fabric, while the trimming will be soft, | floating and vaporous, like tulle, and silk mousseline, and those other gossa- | mer weaves that lend themselves to the expression of this idea. Several couturiers speak of using light fur, such as ermine, either real or unreal, in | small quantities to give a new note to their early Summer frocks. (Copyright, 1933.) Crisp White Organdie Trims Black Dresses LACK, with a bit of becoming | " white trimming, is taking an i important place in clothes for | immediate wear, those dresses | that make their appearance at this time of year and are bought eagerly | to give a new lease of life to the Winter | wardrobe and to carry over into Spring. | . New York shops rfgort a tremendous demand for black dresses with white | lingerie trimming for all hours of the | day, and even those devoted to dining | and dancing when the day is done. Very debonair are these black dresses, | proving conclusively that the black dress can be a youthful one. The black dress is typically a citv dress. It carries with it an air of ele- | gance and gives one the feeling of being well dressed. IR CRISP organdie and soft batiste are | favorite mediums for the trimming. | The ruched scarf, recently brought out ! in Paris, has been adapted by American | designers in very clever ways. Pleated loosely, it is put on over a black silk crepe dress in the form of a little jacket | that is scarcely more than a pair of short ruffled sleeves caught together by |a bit of pleating across the back. | may be removed as easily as an Eton BY MME. VALLET, Directrice of Martial et Armand. MIGHT sum up the character of | the new collection by saying it is i composed of exquisite detalls | against a straight line. We have | retained the same straight sil- houette, but in order to give this a | fresh aspect and a distinguished one, | have introduced trimming in the form of all sorts of infinitely delicate fancy | | work. For sports wear there are bute |tons in twe loud colors on a dark | ground, while incrustations of shorte nap fur in bands, on the diagonal, on | the bodice, are other notable features. Colored embroidery at the neck-line and on the cuffs and entire sleeves, in cut-away form, are effectively employed for afternoon dresses; also the top of the bodice and bottom of the shirt em- brdldered in contrasting colors. These are worn with plain three-quarter coats that leave the embroidery at the bottom of the dress visible, one of the most typical new features of the new models, as it is only on fairly close observation you see that the embroidered bottom cf the skirt is nct one with the coat. * K X % LEEVES are let in at the neck-line; there are high draped sashes in dark ribbon on light dresses; and plas- trons of fancy material on plain mate- rial. The afternoon mode is given fur- ther variety by incrustations of three and four shades of the same color, in horizontal bands making the whole 'ess. For there is lace incrusted in wide panels in a lighter shade than the color of the material used for the dress. is in limited vogue; large ruelres are employed on skirts, and short, puffy sleeves abound. You will wonder what the colors are that lighten up fashionable gatherings in Paris right now. For the daytime there are brown, gray, beige and string, while for evening we give first place to red. All the short-nap furs are used for day, while only fox npfiln in the evening models. Silk poplin is one of the materials used most, but plain and fancy English velvet, cire satin and georgette are other favorites almost equally important, Wide splotches of color and vivid areas of printed flowers are as are masses of fur and other expen: sive and conspicuous ; now it is the artful use of very Pproof of taste, and women Exquisite Details éhown With Clever Use of Color gift of taste welcome this opportunity of demonstrating how far ideas can go | toward achieving much within narrow | limits. * kK X 'OW many captivating dresses this season are, if you stop to analyze them, indebted to the clever use of less than a square foot of fur or | embroidery for their smartness! Some of the most strikingly chic models have nothing new about the line or fabric, and what is new about them has been realized through so little that some have been at pains to seize the source of the noveity at all. Merely the new way of tying & scarf or cutting a’cape, or ar- ranging a row of buttons, is quite suf- ficlent to give an inimitable, smart air to an entire ensemble. ‘Whatever you use for making 8 dress, and I hope at least part of your dresses are made to order according to your very own measurements and lines, make the most of it; if color, see that it goes the longest wav possible; if fur, or embroidery, or other trimming de- | vice, see to it that its possibilities are fully exploited. This practice will force you to the expression of an original idea, and the | pew idea is what makes one dress more cherming than another, and keeps fash- fons forever changing. (Copyright. 1933.) —_—_— Hot Oil Treatment. It jacket, and there remains a plain but | still youthful black dress, with folds of white organdie at the neckline. One of those convertible costumes, this—of the sort that is nmhx%mlmwmnce as the season advances. ir success is | largely due to the thoughtful design- | ing that just now is solving the thrifty woman's clothes problem. | ~Jabots afd bows are details to be looked for in daytime dresses. They are among the new ways of giving a touch of white to the black dress. Large white taffeta or organdie bows are posed on the bodices of black gowns. Small bows of starched lace or organdie are discreetly and effectively placed, while the jabots carry no hint of the old- | time cavalier effect—rather something | of the convent. They are sweetly de- mure, making dresses very becoming. L] PRINTS, as every fashion-wise woman knows, are unusually m this Spring, and none are better those in black and white. One in pen-and- ink effect features the sleeve with an inset scarf, printed to correspond with the fabric of the dress, & fashion. Smart use is made of starched lace in a dress, another of those convertible | ones, for the wide rever of the black crepe may be buttoned up to cover all but the merest hint of the lingerie trim- ming, a tiny outlining frill, or for more formal occasions, opened. Black and white checked taffeta is smartly combined with plain black crepe to make some very striking cos- tumes. ~Some of these consist of checked taffeta blouses and jackets worn with black crepe , others of dresses and jackets of black crepe—the dresses having tops or scarfs of the crecked taffeta. * ok Kk ok ONE of the New York shops recently featured an unusual costume, con- sisting of a dress of black, rough, heavy sheer crepe worn with a jacket of | black uncut velvet. The neckline was | finished with a petal trimming of white | silk mousseline and black cire satin. One dress shows the jabot at its best, as applied to the high neckline. White organdie is tucked and embroidered to form fit, and its edging is an openwork embroidered flower. Fagoting, an im- portant trimming feature in all new clothes, from lingerie to coats, outlines a wide shoulder yoke and attaches in- terestingly = cut sleeves—close - fitting from wrist to elbow and widening above in soft folds. 8. M. C. Chicken Croquettes. Add four tablespoonfuls of tapioca and half a teaspoonful of salt to one and one-half cupfuls of hot chicken | stock and three tabl of milk. | Cook in a double boiler for 15 minutes, or until the tapioca is clear, stirring constantly. Add two cupfulc of finely chopped cooked chicken and cook for five minutes longer. Cool. Shape into cones, making a slight depression in the top of each croquette. Chill. Dip in one beaten egg, roll in sifted bread or cracker crumbs, an O out without your gloves on & few | Drain. Winter days and what happens to your hands? ‘The cold, sharp winds quickly dry out all the natural oils and they become roughtened and coarsened. The face is subjected to this harsh treatment every time you go outdoors in Winter. It wears no glove, no pro- | tector of any ort, and the elements are not respecters of persons. They do not gets the same harsh tretatment unless edequately protected. e skin ages in Winter unless well protected, so we have the hot ol beauty treatments that every one is talking about just now. These are to defeat of current jelly. Arrange and garnish with slices of and parsley. Cherry Pudding. m'crel‘lin u}i:n table 5 of shorten- an one cupful of sugar gradu- ally. Stir in one cg n: milk alter- nately with two cupfuls of flour, which has been sifted with & on a molded jelly of favor any member of the body. Cach IH 1933—PART THREE. Pen Women's League Plans Southworth House Benefit A party which promises to be of un- usual interest is the “lif bridge,” to be given for the benefit of the Southworth House, the club house of the National League of American Pen Women, February 14, in the home of Mrs, Richard L. Hoxle and her sister, rs. Rovert Clay Bherrill, at 3401 Ma- S Brizes il ‘be utographed coples of a ed cop books, written by members. A number have already been received, including books written by Mrs. Clara Keck Hefle- bower, national president of the l.eml'e of American Pen Women, and . Larz_Anderson, whose music also will be presented. Other features will be a short musical and literary program, also an auction sale of valuable literary material. This will be conducted by Mrs. Faber Stevenson. An original let- ter written by Henry Wadsworth Long- fellow hes been donated for the sale. Mrs. Theodore Tiller is in charge of g;tmnum, Reservations may be made calling the hostesses. Arkansas State Society ‘The officers of the Arkansas State Soclety of Washington are lrrnngina a reception and dance at the Willar Hotel Saturday night, February 4, from 8:45 to 12 o'clock. There will be tables for bridge for those who wish to play and the reception will begin promptly at 8:45 o'clock. The Senators and Representatives in Congress from Arkansas with be pres- ent and the election of officers for the ensuing year will take place. All members of the society, every one residing in or near Washington who has ever lived in Arkansas and their friends are extended a cordial invita- tion to attend this reception and dance. Tickets or information may be ob- tained from any of the officers, the members of Congress from Arkansas or from the secretary, Mrs. Brownie H. Kerr, at 1620 Fuller street north- west. both Infantry Reserve, have been pro- moted to the grade of captain. They are John L. De Witt, jr., who has been | assigned to the 418th Infantry (light | tanks), and Orville F. Sandefur, who %u"bem assigned to the 1305th Service nit. ‘The following officers, having ac- cepted reappointment in the Officers’ Reserve Corps without the privilege of assignment or active duty, are relieved | from asignment as indicated: Second | Lieut. Robert T. Norman, Cavalary Reserve, from the 62d Cavalary Dlvt-i sion; Second Lieut. Charles O. Watkins, Coast Artillery Reserve, from the 3d Coast Artillery district, and Second Lieut. John W. Huguley, jr, Infantry Reserve, from the 428th Infantr Washington Drama Guild Performances This Week A large and representative audience is ted to attend the opening night o:'frf the Washington Drama Guild this Winter in Wardman Park Theater Thursday evening. The lay will be “Olympia,” written by enc Mclnar, Hungarisn dramatist, ‘The Assistant Secretary of War and Mrs. Frederick H. Payne, with th2 for- mer’s executive officer, Col. Earl Mc- Farland, and Mrs, McFarland, have made reservations for Thursday eve- ning and among others who are ex- pected are the second secretary of the Ge: embassy and Frau Lohmann, Gen, and Mrs. Mason M. Patrick, Col. and Mrs. U. 8. Grand, 3d; Rear Ad- miral and Mrs. Willlam Ledyard Rogers, Maj. and Mrs. Paul Peabody, Comdr. and Mrs. Vance D. Chapline, Mr. Clif- ford Brooke, Mr. and Mrs. Frederic D. McKenney, Mrs. George Hewitt Myers, Mrs. Eliphalet Frazer Andrews and Mrs. e piay wall be epeated Prida play T eve- ning and will o direction of Miss Constance Conx: Brown, and among those in the who are professionals are Grace PSterss Johnson, Caroline McKinley, Denis E. Connell, Frank Jamison, Murray Shee- han, Virginia Wilson and Paul Brad- bury Walter, Southern Society Ball At Willard Tomorrow Night The New Year ball of the Southern Bociety originally planned for the eve- | ning cf January 7, but postponed cut of | Tespect to the late former President Calvin Coolidge, will take place tomor- row evening at the Willard Hotel at 9 o'clock. The pre:ddent of the rociety, Repre- sentative Menalcus Lankford, will be assisted in receiving the guests by Mrs, Lankford, Representative Ruth Bryan Owen, Representative Effie Wingo, Rep- resentative and Mrs. Jeff Busby, Mr. and Mrs. Daniel C. Rcper, Mr. and Mra. David H. Blair, Mrs. Maud Howell | Smith and Col. Wade Cooper. A aum- | ber of the debutantes of this s:ason | end last season will assist on the Young Ladies’ Committee. | A musical Frcgnm has been arrang:d end two well known artists will sing during intermission. Mrs. Ncrma Sim- onson, zccompanied by Mrs. Dorothy | R. Emory, and Mr. Earl Carbaugh, ac- companied by Mrs. Carbough, ~will render songs of their own selection. The ccmmittee in charge of arrange- | ments includes Mr. John F. Little and iss Etta L. Taggart. The cards iseued | cr the evening of January 7 will be accepted tomorrow evening. | —_— | A trial shipment of Japanese apples | in cold storage arrived recently in | South Africa in gcod conditios : 709 be presented under the | Pi. Hostesses Selected For Pan-Hellenic Lunch Among the prominent fraternity women who will act as hostesses at the Pan-Hellenic luncheon February 4 st the Mayflower are Mrs. Arthur H. Van- denberg, Mrs. Cloyd Heck Mervin, Mrs. E. B. McKinley, Miss Grace Newton, Mrs. William J. Kerlin, Mrs. James Jar- dine, Mrs. Ernest L. Jancke, Mrs. J. W. Cooper, Dean Mary Loulse Br: Mrs. James G. Cumming, Mrs. Paul Shorb, Mrs. Scott Hovey and Mrs. Genevieve Forbes Herrick. Members of the following sororities are invited to attend the luncheon, Pi Beta Phi, Kappa Alpha Theta, Kappa Kappa Gamma, Alpha Phi, Delta Gam- ma, Gamma Phi Beta, Alpha Chi g:}glbhll)elu Dzlt; Dehla(, Alpha X1 Omega, igma Kzppa, Alpha Omicron PL, Zéta Tau. Alpa, mm Gamma Delts, Alpha Delta Pi, Delta Zeta, Phi Mu, Kappa Delta, Beta Phi Alpha, Alpha Delta Theta, Theta Up- silcn, Sigma Phi Beta, Beta Sigma Omicron, Lambda Omega, Phi Omega Recervations should be made through Mrs. M. L. Gilifillan, 224 Third street southeast. Representative Ruth Bryan Owen of Delta Gamma will be the speaker. — Merchants of Bolivia are hoarding stocks of merchandise with the ex- pectation cf higher prices later. Specials Regular $7.50 Ideal Comfort Permanent Wave $3.50 complete Our regular $10 Steam Trested Wave, includine $1.50 reconditioning treatment FREE. $4.95 complete “No finger wave requir®a.” 315 De Luxe Oil Treated Wave ry and brittle hair. including & 0 Violet Ray treatment FREE. $6.50 complete “No finger wave required.” Our for Shampoe. finger Call District 9718 Jack’s Pernranent Wave Shop — 1320-22 F St N. W. Twelfth 2nd Week—Mid-Year Sale Featuring still deeper reductions in Sloane Furniture and Oriental Rugs Sefiarai’e Living Room Pieces English Roll Back Sofa with deep sest, roll arm; extremely comfortable and upholstered in green or gold damask. Reduced from $190 to $90 Easy Chairs, of the low back in green tapestry or small figured mo- type, upholstered quette. Reduced from $105 to of the Queen Anne type; genuine mahogany Reduced from $590 to American Colonial Bed Room Suite $195 The construction is genuine mahogany effectively inlaid with satinwood. $400 to The suite includes 6 pieces—beds, bureau with hanging mirror, chest with standing mirror and chair. American Colonial Bed Room Suite Reduced from $208 Another suite in genuine mahogany with the natural swirl figure and finished in the old red tone. . 8 pieces. $500 to $25 American Hepplewhite Bed Room Suite Reduced from Vo) U This suite is of genuine mahogany construction with handsome inlays of satinwood. Crotch mahogany has been used on drawer fronts and bed panels. 8 pieces. Empire Colonial Bed Room Suite upholstered in a wide range of fabrics of attractive patterns. Reduced from $35 to $]9.50 Maple High-Boy, an excellent Reduced from $480 to $275 The construction is of selected mahogany, figured crotch mahogany on bed panels and drawer fronts. The twin poster beds are handsomely carved. 8 pieces. American Sheraton Bed Room Suite copy of an old original, true in its design and color finisl with the sun-burst carving. Reduced from $120 to $60 Secretary Desk of genuine ma- hogany, old English design, with mirror doors and roomy drawer space. Reduced from $125 to $100 Lamp Tables, in genuine ma- and Reduced from $450 to that rich Old World mahogany finish. 8 pieces. Early English Bed Room Suite Reduced from pieces. _ $1,525 to 5250 Genuine mahogany, with satinwood inlays and the whole suite brought to 5675 The construction of this suite is in fruitwood with artistic marquetry work on the drawer fronts and bed panels. The finish is that unusual but dis- tinctive old crackled effect. A masterpiece in construction and d Genuine Persian Gorevan Rugs hogany with gracefully turned base and white leather inset on top. Reduced from $20 to 517,50 Coffes Tables in genuine ma. hogeny, and of Sheraton design, with brass claw feet. Reduced from $10 to $8 ! = (¢] Reduced from $195 to 145 The collection includes a wide variety of beautiful patterns and colorings in the heavy quality for which Gorevan Rugs are noted. Natural pieces—in soft rose, blue, ivory, gold, etc. The sizes are approximately 9x12. House WARNING! It has come to our attention that itinerant salesmen are offering rugs and carpets for sale representing themselves as connected with our store. The public is warned that such representation is fraudulent, " Free Parking Opposite the Store. With the Green “Open a Charge Account —which carries with it the con- venience of a Budget Plan for set- tlement. The opening of an ac- count can be readily arranged. You'll find it makes shopping gy, e W.&].SLOANE ™. SShutters s