Evening Star Newspaper, January 16, 1923, Page 31

Overblonse: Established Fashion ' BY ANNE RITTENHOUSK. Years ago women indulged in the <harm of variety by wearing separate irts and blouses. They were the re- on from the long domination of OVERBLOUSE OF G CHINE LIN AY CREPE T UNUSI ) ER. THE SKIRT IS GRAY KASHA CLOTH. the one-picce frock which began in the dawn of histor. Before the war, the gown which was T D WITH A DARKER OF cut in a single line was reinstated. It has held women in thrall during the succeeding years. When dressmaker tried to reinstate the use of separate garments, cleverely adjusted, they got no response. Women were carefree and comfortable because they could pitch a frock over the head and tie it with a girdle at the hips. It was against this, freedom that _dre: makers worked., Finally, the dawn broke for the, separate blouse. It found the struggle hatd, but it suc- ceeded. Women now talk as though the one- piece frock were a bore, as though the charm of several blouses and the ‘conomy in picking up odds and ends of fabrics .at the bargain counters were a new hln‘h of fashion. It is certainly an economy. As any fabric serves for a separate skirt, ai- most any fabric serves for a blouse. The shirtwaist that tucks under the skirt is shelved. The overblouse with its ornamental hip treatment rules. Crepe de chine continues to be a strong fabric for all such blouses. I is the first choice of women who do not seek different clothes from those commonly worn. Knitted fabrics are strongly sponsored by exclusive dress- makers, s0o women seek for them also. Oriental silks and foulards are chosen, and fiber silks elaborately embroid- ered in Chinese patterns have risen from sweaters to decorative blouses. The sketch shows a blouse of crepe in & tone of gray which has a faint suggestion of heliotrope. The lining and piping are in a deeper shade. This piping, by the way, is curiously arranged with good decorative effect. On the hips, it is used in flattened horseshoes, through which 'is slipped silver ribbon that ties at one side. This same idea is used on the short sleeves. By the way, short sleeveless gowns are rushing back into fashion. The number of them worn during the last two months at day parties is evidence that fashion- able people intend to reinstate the bare arm. Possibly they have-revolt- ed against the long sieeve, possibly they merely intend to vary their cos- tumes with whatever type of sleeve they desire. (Copyright, 1928) sleeves and The Formal Dinner BY JUL IA HOYT (Mrs. Lydig-Hoyt) INCE entertaining at meals {s the ter how large thelr establishments may be. most popular as well as common form of entértainment in Amer- ica, I shall begin by telling how the tormal dinner, perhaps the most im. portant and cercmonial of all meals, | can be given successfully. But “successfully” is the catch. The secret of giving a successful din- mer, lies In experience in knowing how things ought to be donme, for without this knowledge how can a hostess di- rect, correct and instruct her household? “Therefore, I strongly advise the novice hostess not to attempt this form of en- it ought to be given and until ghe learns what to expect of her house and equip- tertainment until she knows how ment as well as her servants. From personal experience and obser- vation I have found what I consider the six essentlal ingredients for a success- ful dinner. They are: 1. Tastefully furnished drawing and dining rooms, both large enough to ac- commodate comfortably the invited Jumber of guests. 2. Suitable menu, faultlessly pre- ared Expert dining-room serve it 4. servants to #parkling. A charming and hospitable host | and hostess, 6. Above all, guests who are con- genial tu one another. Having all of these six, nothing re- mains but to give the dinner, and see ppens! anted to know whether a_wi really “up” in social obs #nces, I thinl of all, by the wa tne same rule applies to other functions and to the general management of her household. I regard housckeeming as a serious and interesting duty, how busy I am, I never let the threads slip through my fingers. - When I give a big dinner 1 superintend the menu, the placing of guests, the decorations’and the service. I exercise meticulous care over all the entertainments 1 give. My intimate friends do the same, no mat- Spotless linen, and all the other table accessories perfectly polished and 1 should judge her, first vy she conduots a formal dinner; that is, whether she conducts it reelf, or leaves it to her servants, or io some one hired for the occasion. And And no matter And now I will tell what I have learn- ed about doing it. * ¥ * % TYAVING decided on the date and | the guests for a formal dinner, the invitations are sent out. Usual- 1y invitations to formal entertain- ments are engraved, so that only a person’s mame s written. The form reads: Mrs. Lydig Hoyt requests the pleasure of (written name of guest) company at (dinner) on (date) o’'clock. Fifth avenue. * Ok ok ok DINNER of thirty-six or less is seated at a single table and usually a butler and elght assistants are necessary to serve it properly. A dinner of fifty or more is always served at separate tables—the center table of the size desired by the hos- tess and four corner tables for the other guests. The setting of each ble and the service is the same. Each table is identified by a number or different colored flower decora: tion: ‘When this separate table ar- rangement is used the number or the color s written in the corner of each of the ladies’ name cards which go in the envelopes handed to arriving gentlemen at the door. * ok ok HE menu—Hors d'oeuvre, mean- ing any appetizer, such as caviar, anchovy, heart of artichoke with piquant ‘sauce, et cetera, et cetera; soup, fish, entree, & roast with vege- tables, perhaps a bit of game (but this is not at all necessary—in fact, the simpler menu is used almost ex- clusively), then salad, with cheese, desert and coffee. Of course, the menu may vary, but the hostess must be most careful about preparing a well balanced menu. If she serves a light appetiz- er and soup her entres must be sub- stantial. 1f she chooses a more sub- stantfal appetizer and a cream soup her entree must be light and her meat course may be squab or some- thing similar. The many-course dinner is a thing of the past and is never seen in fash- ionable houses. (Copyright, 1923, by North American News- paper Alliance.) at 000 The Diary of a Professional Movie Fan BY GLADYS HALL. Speaking of Husbands, Foreign and Domestic. T talked to Irene Bordoni in her diessing room at the theater. I wanted to talk to her because I knew she had done pictures in France, and I thought that a change of country, speaking cinematically, might be 5ood for my education. As I entered the dressing room three Miss or Mile. Bordoni's eyes—of such size, And such a brillianee, oooh, amazing things struck me. 1a, la! IRENE BORDONI HAS DONE PIC- TURES IN FRANCE. la Ya! 1a 1a's! . Also Miss Bordoni's occupation at Tt consfsted in making that moment: up her toes a vivid shade of ver- milion. 1 was somewhat taken back. 1 felt that I had lived to learn, in- deed. 1 had seen the best of ‘em here in little old America! even-Theda Bara and Nazimov it rematned for . Bordoni demonstrate that in of such a.thoroughness th toes aroe = even And such a.brownness, four Mary Piokford and_Gloria ‘Swanson. and u to aris they “are serving that her dressing room was decorated in a nursery cretonne, after Kate Greenaway. I sald, keep- ing my eyes steadily on the ceiling, “Is this cretonne your choice, made- moiselle?” Secretly, I could scarcely reconcile it to vermilion toes. She gave a little laugh, light and free, like a bird's. “It ees,” she said. “It cheer me up when I am, what you say, melon-cholie. Those leetie faces hid by ze enor-mous bonnets. 1 say to myself, ‘What would they say to me if they could turn around? Leetle darlings, zey would surprise me, 1 know. They would laugh wiz me. And, then, I love blue. It ees my favorite colouer.” “What do you think of the Amer- ican men?” I asked next. She ha an agile mind, I knew, and woul not object at all to jumping from nursery cretonnes to American men. “Ze American man is slave to ze American woman,” said the Bordonl. “In France a woman say to her hu: band, ‘I go such and such a place,’ an’ he say to her, thunder-voiced: tay at home, where you be- Here in America ze American woman say ze same sing to ze Amer- ican husband an’' he ‘say, ‘All right, darling, run along! " Is this the way things should be?” I anxiously asked. It Is so neces- ry to have one’s husband right. “Non. Women should be sub- servient to men. It ees right that way. But if we love a man, we do as ‘he says. It comes to ze same !thing anyway. I will tell you = secret. I have had both. A French husband—an American husband. The American man as husband—he ees so She blew a kiss American- “He do everything she said. “He ees divine!” FEED THE BRUTE Favorite Recipes by Famous Men. BY CECIL B. DE MILLE, Fried Cuncumbers. One of my favorite dishes is fried cucumbers, and the recipe for same is very simple. First peal the green skin, then slice cucumbers in thin lengthwise strips. dipped in a rich batter, sprin- kled with bread crumbs and fried for, about three minutes in deep. fat, (Copyright, 1928) U ————— i S e i » z EVENING /KTAR, WASHINGTON, D. T, TUESDAY, -JANUARY -V EIFE’S TITTLE TRAGEDIES (T + Pauline fell madly in love with her brother" | i Il i s it Im"\ il » roommate at college when she attended the Thanksgiving game. It is now five days since she mailed him the pillow and the perfectly huge box of fudge, and herc’s the postman going past on the afternoon delivery without even looking toward the house. Bloomer Frocks Worn Extensively. The time has gone whea one saw youngsters fairly toddling under the weight of their voluminous starched petticoats, and mother is ~probably the most appreciative of the new fad of matching bloomers to one's frock, for her work on laundering day is most assuredly lightened. The dress,shown was originally made of gingham at 25c per yard, with linene for trimming at 50c per yard, making the completed garment cost about $1. The dress pattern No. 1593 cuts in sizes 6, 8, 10, 12 and 14 years. Size 8 requires 3 yards 36-inch material with % yard 32-inch contrasting. Price of pattern, 15 cents, in post- age stamps omly. Orders should be addressed to The Washington Star Pattern Bureau, 22 East 18th strect, New York City. Please write name and address clearly. “Just Hats” By Vyvyan An Unusual Veil Trim. A small poke with the simplest sort of trimming that is very chic. 'This model comes in two combinations, the first suitable for the south, and the second for the north, where ‘the Win- ter winds do blow. ‘The first treatment is done in llac milan, with brim edged in rich purple violets. A cream lace flounce co the brim only, and falls into ts at either side of the cheek. The is edged likewise in violets. A row purple ribbon circles the cf and ties in & bow at the front. For the north, this shape comes'in black, with black vell, . and Y flowers of dull silver. ', - 3 In both cases, the profile is n through the lace curtains. , * Turkish Pilaf. ‘Wash and drain one-half Supfutior rice, ¢ook in one tablespoos of butter until brown, add one cuptef of Stock or boiling water and ' steam until-the water s and. three-fourths ~ (Copyright, 1923.) BEDTIME STORIES Peter Goes to Look for-Old Jed Thumper. This truth There's 50 triumph soon or late, e in this world for hate. —Peter Rabbit. Peter Rabbit is sich a happy-go- lucky fellow that he seldom gives much thought to others and does very little worrying. But he is very good-hearted, is Peter Rabbit. When he saw how worried little Mrs, Peter was over her father, Old Jed Thumper, the big, gray Rabbit who lives in the Old Pasture, he began to worry, too. At first he only worried about little Mrs. Peter. She was losing her ap- petite, and this wasn't the kind of weather for any one to lose appetite; He_didn’t want to. think of Old Jed Thumper, but he couldn’t help it. Every tume he looked at -little Mrs, Peter and saw how worried she was Le had to think of Old Jed Thumper. And after a while he himself actually began to worry about Old Jed Thumper. He knew that with all the trees and bushes and vines coated with ice, and with the snow covered with a hard, icy crust, getting enough to eat would be no easy matter for even as blg and stout a Rabbit as Old Jed Thumper. “If he were down here in the dear Old Briar Patch.” thought Peter, “he would be all right. There is food enough here for him without either Mrs. Peter or I having to go hungry. I am sure that when this has been eaten Farmer Brown's Boy will bring more. "It is dreadful-to go hungry at any time, but it is always worse in such weather as this. A fellow can't keep warm and strong in this kind of weather unless he has plenty of food. I belleve Tll run up to the Old Pasture and see how Old Jed Thumper is getting along. If he is all right T'll nothing to him, but if he really is in a bad way I'll in- vite him down here to the dear Old Briar Patch. So without saying anything to little Mrs. Peter, Peter started for the Uid Pasture. 'He got there safely and then started to look for Old Jed Thumper. “My,” thought Peter, worse than I thought they were. doo covers everything Tm. hard time of it. Here's a bush from which heshas tried to' gnaw some bark. He didn't get much. I guess gs _are This 1d BEAUTY . CHATS Darkening Eyelashes. Thé trouble with most eyelashes is not that they are too short or too thin, but that the color does not ex- le?d far enough down the individual hafrs. If you think that you have been slighted by nature in this matter take up a hand mirror and examine your eyelashes closely. You'll find that each hair grows quite a fair fraction of an inch beyond the point where the color stops. So what you need is, temporarily, an artificial color, and for permanent beauty a stimulant to increase the amount of real color. For temporary use, try this eye- lash stain: One drachm peroxide of manganese, one drachm water, two drachms glycerin. This makes a tiny bottleful of inky- looking fluld, which should be shaken up & bit first and then:applied to the lashes with a camel's hair brush—a fine, small one sold in-artists' -sup- ply stores. It is quite harmless. All it does is to make the lashes very dark. If any gets on the skin it can be washed off and all the stain can be washed off when the face is bath- ed. It’s not noticeable, like an eye- brow pencil, and a.little easier to handl Here's something {o make them long_ @nd thick: Cocoa butter, 1 drachm; parawax, 4 drachms; lano- line, % drachm; oll of sweet almonds, 4 drachms; rose oil (or any perfume), 3 drops. This ‘is very nourishing, very thick, and sometimes must be warmed a bit before it will rub in well. % £ It can be used on the eyebrows, too, if you wish. to n’ea' i you al . usi :‘ Jed Thumper has been havifg a| By Thornton 'W. Burgess. the ice on it was too thick for even his sharp teeth. There's another bush from which he has eaten some of the smallest twigs. He must have eaten ice and &ll. It makes me shiver just to think of it. T wonder where he is? There are no footprints to fol- low on ‘this jcy crust. 1 guess I'll have- to look in all his favorite places.” So Peter hopped from one bramble tangle to another, looking for Old Jed Thumper. He knew all those g7 SO PETER HOPP FROM ONE BRAMBLE TANGLE TO AN OTHER, LOOKING FOR OLD JED THUMPER. bramble tangles and just which ones were the favorites of Old Jed Thumper. He found many places where Old Jed Thumper had tried to get a little bark. Bark was the only food a Rabbit could get in the Old Pasture with that icy crust covering the snow. It was so hard that no Rabbit could possibly dig down through it. .Peter became more and more wor- ried. He had thought to find Old Jed Thumper long before this. He had visited every one of Old Jed Thumper's favorite places without getting so much as a glimpse of him. At last he remembered a bramble itangle In a far corner of the Old | Pasture. 1f Old Jed Thumper wasn't there . Peter would have to give up looking for him. “I am afraid_somethin |pened to him. Yes, sir; I am afraid something has happened to him,” muttered Peter as he started for that bramble tangle. (Copyrigh has hap- by T. W. Burgess. By Edna Kent Forbes. | "Eleanore A. T.—In a well propor- | tioned figure the bust measure and | that of the hips will be about the same, with ten inches less for the waist measure. This will not apply to young girls who are just matur- ing, for they frequently have either too little or too much development of the bust. This condition is usua ly but a temporary phase in their growth and.a period of a few more years finds them in correct propor- tion. John Frederick. — Stuttering _is sometimes cured by a course in elo- cutfon. If not an aétual cure it will be somewhat relieved. If this does not help you, consult a spetialist. 1t is possible now to cure almost any case of stuttering with very little expense and treatment. Italian Salad. ‘Wash onhe head of lettuce. Ar- range baskets of lettuce leaves on individual plates. Place cold rice on the lettuce leaves in cup shape. Into the rice cups drop diced: beets. Across the top place some parsley. Boiled dressing may.be served with this salad. 2 Are You Too Fat? —If you are, and ‘want to re- duce in a scientific manner, under the supervision of a competent graduate nurse, who guarantees results without the aid of chiropractics, drugs, strenuous exercises, weakening diets, or baths—consult Miss A. M. BLACK 16,--1923., flism of Bour Name. BY PHILIP FRANCIS NOWLAN. HENDERSON. VARIATIONS = Anderson, Andrews, Hi ndry, Hendrie MacHendry, Mac- Hend! MacKendrick, Henrison, Hensen, Kendrick. RACIAL ‘GRIGIN—English, Scottish and Irish, - 4 SOURCE=A- given name. One thipg fs certain about all of the family names in this group. They are all derived from a given name. But which of three given names they trace back to, and through what lan- guage, are matters that only a genedlogical research in the indi- vidual ease could establish. ’ Anderson and Andrews, of course, are quite definitely indicate simply developments of son” and for the most part of purely English origin, though in many-cases they are but anglicized versions of efther Scottish or Irish names. The “Mac” names in the group are quite, as definitely Celtic, but they may be either Irish or Scottish. The given name of “Henry” and “Eanruig” (Celtic) are often interchanged. A northern branch of the Scottish “clan Gunn" bears the name of b derson, traceable to Henry, a son of George Gunn, the “crowner” or coroner, who flourished it the fifteenth century. A branch of the clan MacDonald of Glencoe trages its name to one “kEan- ruig Mor," a MacDonald chieftain who settled in Kinlochleven in the year 1011. The names of MacKendrick and MacHenry are also borne by branches of the clan MacNaughton, who trace it to chieftains of their own clan named Henry or Eanruig. Irish de- velopment of the name has been simi- lar. Kendrick is a shortened form of MacKendrick. But the name Henderson may also be English, as also Andrews, Ander- son, Hendry and Hendrie (these two when not contractions of MacHendry | and MacHendrie) and Henson, for these forms are all English. The con- fusion of English and Scottish forms at a very early date in the develop- ment of the family name system 18 due to the fact that the kingdom of Scotland™in the middie ages contained a large Norman and Saxon element, virtually dominant in the lowlands and often penetrating to the high- lands. In Ireland this confusion be- gan later, the logical consequence of the English conquest of that country and the actual enforcement of Eng- lish epeech and customs. (Copyright.) | PAM’S PARIS POSTALS PARIS, January 2-—Dear Ursula: This is not a poster to advertise “Pity the poor blind,* but a portrait of myself with gilded eyellds—the very latest whim of fashion. PARMELA. (Copyright, 1923.) VERSIFLAGE Hats Off. “Haven't you any good to say. wrote a man the other day, “of m: poor downtrodden sex? Your stitches, Wilhelmina, vex!” Straightway then 1 felt ashamed, for one I know (he can't be named) a man to make a woman pine, his nature almost is divine. This man when scarcely twenty-eight discovered he had met his fate. She said, “There's mother to support.” He said, “She'll know the want of nought” She said, “If I become your wife, then we must give a start in life to my three broth- ers, each a lad.” Which job, he said, would make him glad. “And so he jworks from morn till late In order that he'll earn enough, the little boys to educate and make the mother's life less rough, as well as keep his wife so dear—these five lives then depend on him. Wers I good luck I'd hover near and fill this man’s cup to the brim WILHELMINA STITCH. WONEN! DI Y GARNENT OR DRAPER Kimonas Curtains Sweaters Coverings Draperies Ginghams Stockings Everything Diamond Dyes Each 15-cent package of “Diamond Dyes” contanis:directions so simple apy woman,can dye or tint her old, worn, fadéd things new, even if she has neverdyed before. Buy Dia- mond Dyes—%n-p!hgr kind—then erfect homerdyeing is guaranteed. Fist tell your draggist whether the ‘material yowwish to dye is wool or silk, or whether. it is_linen, cotton or tiixed goods. Diamond Dyes never streak, spot, fade or run. Chamb?is b?-' his greatest novel, "Bris,” in February McCalPl’s. Read the thrill- Ma gazine OUT TODAY YAl JFEATURES. Listen,World! WRITTEN AND 1LLUSTRATED By Clsie Ttobinson No one but a mother or father can possibly know how hard it is to bring up youngsters now. That's a stmple statement, .but it voices the dismay and heartache of thousands of Amen- ican homes. Never in all history has there “been a wider divergence he- tween the ideals of onc generation and another or greater difficulty /in arriving at some satisfactory Iwo- gram, In vain the elders cry WAAT 15 YOUTH DO[NG@TO_ WORLD. ? ome back to the old standards which made for! Justice and honor, purity and peuce! The youngsters reply. “They did no such thing! Look at the laws of your day, where your. attitude toward things was really expressed, the laws concerning child labor and the rights of women, the laws regulating the treatment %, the insan o the juice through = jelly bag. two cups of juice: porcelain or crockery molds. ‘The most economical of fruits, housewives will secure cranberries now., MOTHER! BREAK GHILD'S COLD | to countless DELICIOUS CRANBERRY JELLY You can make 10 tumblers of jelly with 224 pounds of sugar and 8 pounds of Cranberries! Try this recipe: Cook until soft the desired quantity of cranberries with 174 pints of water for cach. two quarts of berries. Strain it 10 the boiling point. /Add one cup of sugar for every stir until the sugar is dissolved; boil briskly for five minutes: skim, and pour into glass tumblers, the poor. Do you call such laws hon. orable and just? Look at the war you left for us to settle! Do you calf? that plrity and peaceZ . We. will havel truth, and unless we can have truth we will have no sentimental pretense in its place.” 8o they have set abopt their scaren for truth and we're sufe that theyre making a mess of it. ‘But are they? Aren't they simply working off the ferment of those hidden lusts tHeir fathers left them as a heritage? You cry that the modern intimacy between young men and wonjen is vulgar and disgusting, and su licen: never prevailed in other days. It didn't, but something cqually bad prevailed. Study the sex cofitempt which fi, derlay the old standards of “chivalcy and werc reflected in the laws con: cernin women and children, many of v\'hl%h are stil] blots on our statute hooks. When father and grandfather #enerations have held women to be a female animal, to be ruled or abused, but given no legal voice in her own destiny, is it any wonder that’ton is unablo to shake off that viewpoint suddenly? Or that daughter flaunts her bodily -assets when, for so long, they were her only marketable commodity? ” Youth is stirring up no new vice. It is simply letting Joose the things we nurturéd in the dark in older days. It is wrecking a weak, unaired house of life which we had built for thém to inhabit. and jeering at the Himpy decorations and the trash we left be- hind. But having exposed and wreck- ed and jeered, youth will begin "to build again, for that is the way of life. And. despite its selfishness ana e, 1 truly believe that youth will build a cleaner, stronger and more hofiorable building than its fathers bullt before. pyright, 1923) Measure the juice and heat Prudent M / //////’//l/l'/ = ) 7/ Hurry! Move Little Bowels with | “Califomnia Fig Syrup”™ ‘Whatever to relicve a bad © congestion, be sure to first open the little_one's bowels with "California se you give your child Id, sore throat or ons the to get rid of the po which are causing Fig and cold and congestion. In a few hours you can see for yourself how thor- oughly it works the constipation TETLEY'S Makes good TEA a certainty cian he will praise you for having given “California Fig Syrup” as the laxative because it never fails, never cramps or overacts, and even ik children love its pleasant taste.'® Ask your druggist for gen e “California Fig Syrup” which sas directions for babies and children of dll ages printed on bottle. Mother! You must say’ “Californid”’ or you may get an imitation fig syrap. > S— - 5 Warm your teapot— use teaspoonful of Tetley’s Orange Pekoe poison, sour bile and v(a!lr‘»l‘lgh' out. Even if you call your family physi- for every two cups— be sure water is freshly boiling—steep five min- utes. Then you have a real cup of tea. .\ . (RSB A