Evening Star Newspaper, September 14, 1922, Page 12

e 12 SXAERGAN GPERAS TH WITER PLANED Chicago Cumpaiy Organized on Co-Operative Artist Basis for That Purpose. By the Associated Press CHICAGO, September 14.—The Chi- cago Chamber Opera Company has been formed on the co-operative artists’ plan to produce six American operas tis winter, Mrs. Archibald Freer. its chair- | man, a soclety woman, hias announcea. |\ s the first plan of the kind ever to be launched,” said Mrs. Freer. “Each opera will be a genu merican produe- | tion. and will be heard twice. Miss Hinsolving is manager of the aid the new company ot efforts to promote and to encourage ans and composers, as | e opera in our language and by the David Bispham fund. Mrs. Freer is national of both foundations, as well as chairman of the Chicago company. Mrs. Edith Rockefeiler McCormick is vice chairman of the national organiza- tion. “The response which our work is re- ceiving,” said Mrs. Freer, “is indicated by a resolution which the General Federation of Women's Clubs passed at ite convention in Chautauqua, N. Y. last Ju The ion follows: ‘ “The: been for many years the | need for a truly American plan to pro- mote public interest in the American ! singer ar mposer, thus establishing | an American school of opera and na- tional opera houses where genuine American opera shall be produced in our language. “That the General Federation of Women's Clubs pledges its interest in furthering the plan of the organizations now working toward this end.” RUSSANSHONOR 0L-TIE LEADR Gen. Diederichs Chosen by Strong Vote as Dictator of l 1 | | | Primoria. VLADIVOSTOK. Siberia, August 18. Gen. Diederichs has been chosen dic- tator of the Primoria by 219 votes| against 19. N. L. Gondatti withdrew | his nomination at the last moment, | although his candidature was assured. | )d political observers of Gondatti | were convinced that he would never | accept the post and that it was only | the de himself in the pub- | tic eve ed the nomination to be presented | As the former governor general of | the Primoria. Gondatti was consid- ered one of the best administrators this district ever had. The work done by his mission in | the survey and study of the Primoria | was very complete and the results of | its investigations published in twenty volumes is still the standard work. He refused the ministry of commerce under the czar. in order to devote all his energies to the far east and in the genith of his power he was invested with almost vice regal authority. His name. as an administrator. is one of the most respected among the Rus- sians of the far east and hence their desire to elect him dictator. ! On August 8 Gen. Diederichs was | inducted into the dictatorship. The | seals of office were handed over to ! him by the former head of the tem- porary government. S. D. Merkuloff, after a_solemn service in the cathe- | dral. He received the allegiance of the army and civil employes. Al- though the choice of Diederichs is in eneral popular, there are many who ave little faith in a military dic- tatorship and think that it will not ,be popular among the workmen. It is feared that the life of the present government will not be long and that with the departure of the Japanese ! the advent of the reds is a matter of tittle doubt STuTZ HE owner of a Stutz knows that the capacity of its fa- mous power plant is so much greater than any demand he will ever make of it that the swiftest sustained me & mere loafing pace forthe Stutz “D-H” Engine, assuring absence of strain, lengthened life and far less service attention. Touring Car $2640 Roadster $2450 4-Passenger $2790 Coupe . $3490 all Prices {. o. b. Factory Stutz Motor Sales Co. 1507 14th Street N.W. Phone Main 520. STUTZ MOTOR CAR COMPANY of AMERICA, e IMW“&L PEP Worn gears will rob your car of ‘its vouthful pep and power. ‘When, you put EBONITE into your transmission or difl-n-\ tial cases you give your gears a smooth, velvety, wear-resisting film of lubricant that prevents friction. e y All good Garages and Dealers sell EBONITE THE EVENING STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C., THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 1922. WHAT IS HAND TAILORING? The frequent use--and misuse—of the term “hand-tailored” in the advertising pages of magazines and newspapers, while it emphasizes the importance at- tached to this feature of ready-tailored clothing, has created confusion in the minds of both retailer and consumer as to just what constitutes “hand-tailoring.” The traditional standard of quality in clothing has: Catering to a critical trade, including some of the largest and most particular merchants in the country, long been represented by custom tailoring. Today successful retailers, who believe in quality, specify certain operations of hand-tailoring as essential in their garments that they may possess the merit of custom tailoring. 1 The canvas front is kand padded to secure not only softness but flexibility; one of the most important essentials to produce style and balance in the garment. 2 Canvas fronts are carefully hand pressed so that the proper effect may be developed in the front of the garment,vand that the shoulder ‘may lie smoothly. 3 Lapels are hand padded with small stitches to insure softness and the proper roll 4 The under collar is carefully padded by hand for pliability. ' S The front darts are hand tacked with linen o hold the forepart correctly on the canvas. 6 The top and front edge of the lower pockets are fastened to canvas by hand to give strength to pocket and insure the front being held in perfect position. we have incorporated in our merchandise over hand operations which we feel are necessary to a well tailored garment. The 23 hand operations listed - are the essential or key operations, other ations are contributory. . 23 Hand-Tailored Points in Goodman & Suss Clothes 7 Pocket welts are hand felled on all plain edge coats. Welts on all coats are tacked by hand to canvas with linen, to prevent sagging. 8 The bridle is basted and padded by hand to the forepart and tacked on the collar so that the front may hang evenly. 9 All flap pockets are-bar tacked by hand with silk twist to give strength and durability to the pocket. 3 10 Tape is hand felled to the canvas in the from of the coat that the edge may remain in a.smooth cogdition. 11 The outer edge of facing is securely hand tacked to the tape on plain edge coats to keep the edge firm and to prevent the edge from turning. 12 The seam in the edge of the lapel is hand tacked to the canvas to keep the edge flat anduoinn.lrellolide\flea. 13 The facing is securely hand tacked to the canvas with linen thread to hold the front in place. 14 The inside breast pocket is blind tacked by hand to keep the right front absolutely secure. 15 The front and back arm syces are drawn in by hand with linen thread with chain stitch, to insure a well-fitting armhole and to give ease and flexibility without allowing the armhole to stretch. 16 The ‘under collar is put on by hand so that the length can be accurately adjusted and fullness properly distributed. 17 The under collar is hand felled to the neck gorge. lsmmmflnhMmbbeyapm tailors so that the leaf of the collar may lie perfectly. TAILORED AT ROCHESTER hand oper- 19 Theouter edge of the collar is felled by kand. 20 The neck gorge is hand felled. The faci and top collar are drawn together by not only where lapel meets collar but the en- tire length of the facing, so that at no point 21 The buttonholes are all reinforced and made by hand. 22 The sleeve vents and bottoms are felled and tacked hand. Sleeve linings are also hand felled and tacked. 23 The bortom facing of coat is tacked and fellechan_dlotheimepmndlini@ are felled to the bottom lacing. v our coats is applied to vests and trousers. Tops of trousers hand felled — pockets are hand med.a’%mmmmehny shaped and shrunk by hand, and satisfactory wear is insured by the special reinforcement feature in the The above chart based upon the ct/ambined‘specifimtions. of recognized leading merchants may be used as a fixed standard of quality tailoring Goodman € Suss Clothes are, and will continue to be, 23-point hand-tailored N ~ GOODMAN & Suss CLOTHES “Art in tailoring” our style book sent upon request T T e g T T e e S A . ST . 1 5 A B et S0 A s