Evening Star Newspaper, August 20, 1922, Page 57

‘BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. \ PARIS. \ OME cynic said that Parls w worry any woman who is here #o pick wp ‘what men may call the non-essentials. She adores them: Feor instance? ‘Dinner was progressing at Le +Cabaret,” where many Americans dine because it is not essential to put on evening -dress, and the food is good and the prices high. The woman who was giving the dinner was so ubsorbed in telling about small ele- Dhants that the walter was out of all patience because she wouldn't tell him how she wanted the.lobster prepared. “Elephants,” she said,-“are the ani- mals of. the hour.. They. are. Persian and Indian, you see. and as the move- ment is_back to, Genghis Khan, you simply can't. escape those animals; They are embroidered on the new cigarette cases for women in the cglor ,of the frock or the hat. They ‘are put on vanity cases in adorable colors. without getting an elephant. Now, really, don't go home And if you want to be exasperating to the family, ‘cable them as one girl' did: “Meet me &t pler with‘freedom of the Port permisifon; am bringing six ele- “That's all very amusing.” inter- rapted the other woman. “but You are wrong in one thing. Khan who is influencing the move- ment toward elephants. It's the and Duke Nicholas, the hero of the imperial Russtan.army. He, like the sther aristocrats, believed in the luck of the elephant, as the Egyptians be- lieved jin the.cat.. He carried a Rus- sian leather case of varlously colored clephants and took them out, choos- ing one on the eve of battle. One of our war correspondents did the same after lunching with the imperial family and brought them to America. “That animal was the burden hearer of the orientals, but it was the luck symbol of the aristocrats of holy Russia. As the Russian influ- ence in dress has been the strongest of any during the last year. it was natural that one of the symbolic things should have found a place.” “I don’t believe a word of that harangue,” said the hostess. “Gar- con, T want lobster thermidor.” Per- sonally, T think the elephant is a tribute to Presldent Harding. Neverthel, that harangue was true. The Russians who are sewing in attics know the truth. Don't you remember the small elephants in color that were embroidered on tiny frocks for small children? The source was the same. Now it is smart to have not only an embroidered ani- mal of India on the accessories that one carries, but one In colored quartz such as the Grand Duke Nicholas car- d. His luck was good in battle, one must admit, although one might well be fearful of his luck in peace. * % ¥ ¥ JLUEPHANTS are for luck, as Presi- ~ dent Harding may agree—and democrats and republicans are buy- ing them alike—but the appearance It's not Genghis ! of nurgery rhymes on blouses is surely Russian At one of the smart shops on the Rue de la Paix there is always an American group in front of the win- dow looking at the blouses with their new and gay embraldery. to be worn outside the skirt, as most self-respecting blouses are these days. And the most alluring one is of white georgette crepe. with a tight hip band and rolling collar, the front cut in imitation of a man's dress shirt. The conventional bands are embroidered in groups of children done in black silk threads. ~ bittle Boy Blue is blowing his horn lustily, others are wrangling and falling and fighting. The buttons | are only in front and at the wrists. But there's another, equally popu- lar with the changing crowds, which 1s distinctly Chinese. It is white also, with'the deslgn in bright col- ors. There are Chinamen flying their gorgeous fish lanterns and the colors are red, black, blue and yellow, deli- cately done. The bands that frame the blouse are embroldered in Chinese pdrasols ~ wheeling around as in a windstorm. This is worn with a white crepe skirt and is intended for the beaches, but the weather man knows that such fragile clothes are not possible in this summer of rain and cold and wind. If that blouse is attempted there is a fur coat over It. Many of the women at the beaches remind Americans of the snapshots sent home from France in war years by our beloveds, looking ltke Eski- mos, and followed by pleas for sweat- ers and still more sweaters. Yet the French are putting up the old, old cry to tourists that never was there such a summer as this for cold and rain. No wonder the veterans laugh in their faces. And just as the American is about to think that Russia and China rule the world of clothes, up bobs a blouse definitely Indian, and one sees the idea repeated in gorgeous jackets that were Imspired by the Prince of Wales' visit to India, or possibly the preserice ‘in Paris of the same host of spendthrift Indian princes who were here last year. One hopes it is the former. £ The best of these Indian blouses is They are | of red crepe de chine with an‘oraa- menta; walstcoat front, an idea which dominates all formal blouses, _ the perfection of the non-esseri- jdone in gold embroldery intersected ttals. - That stgfement does not | with tiny mirrors of suby glass. The design Is as formal as the gardens of Versallles, the gold threads rolled into tight acrolls in the Indidn man- nef. - i 5 TR kR % AHONG the things for the beaches, warm things that keep out the August cold, is a Victorian sack, tde kind of garment that protected civil war women at the breakfast table and when combing the hair. In old English days it was called a “comb- ing sack.” Now it is the substitute for a sweater. It is signed by Eliane of the Rue de 1a Paix, where the smart Amer- icans get many exclusive sport things; so no one need doubdt its fachion, even If it does look like something brought out of the attic for a fancy dress party. The fabric is white duvetyn, quite fitting for the weather, and the embroidery is done with silk soutache brald, also white. In shape it is merely a sack. It couldn't ‘be’ anything else. ‘The sleeves are wide and comfortable. It is worn over a white gown, but it is sometimes put with a black skirft and white blouse, not with such good effect. The hat worn with it, and With many other beach costumes, Is merely 1t you have, been swimmng, play- ing tennig,_or afiy of the other out- dqor.games, your arms ‘are probably rounded. But there are a great many girls. who have been too busy, or not able to enjoy these sports, so- 1 am suggestng some arm de- velopment exercses for them. ~As such girls are rarely inclined to any streduous exerciging, the fol- i16wing iInstructions are based upon a combination of exercise and mas- sage,’ bringing about the same ef- fect as’ does exercise, but with less outlay of enérgy. Another advantage: lles_{n” the’ small amount of time ex-: while’ standing or sitting erectly, stretch the right arm to the front, lolding it at such an angle that the tips of the fingers are at the same height as "thé head, the gnfiers” held stralght together and thumb close. Place the left hand with the fingers and_thumpk close, over the upper side of the. right arm at thé wrist, clasp- ing the.arm. Now slowly massage the museles all the way up the arm, Xeeping to the upper side of the tanged limb, Continue this. all the way-up over shoulder into the neck. Repeat this performance by massag- ing the~same arm. workiak. slong - BY EDNA KENT FORBES. the under side. Repeat all of this with the other arm. Continue until you have had five treatments for each.| side. The massage movements are much. like a tight-clutch, and then 2 gentle but firm twist of the muscles;-unsl you feel a warmth from the exercise. Judgment will decide how much ef- fort should be put into- the mas- sage and the gentle method is best, else the muscles will feel sore later, These exercises should not take longer than three to five minutes. Reader:—White vaseline is, quite different from: red vaseline. A_finestoothed comb Is” very irri- tating to the scalp and should riever be_used except for emergencies. If you must remove the dandrufr ?rom your head, massage into it spy .hot oll. (such sa crude oil) and let it re- main on overnight. Shampoo thoroughly. next .day aund all this scaley dead skin will gome off. ‘With, such a.condition you should be. giv- ing the scalp a dally massage and using & good hair tomic twite each 1 shall be glad to muil you formulas for creams’ thgt will’ Aour® 1sh and not grow. hair. I sorry’ there ia not space to print these'at 2 s { cuptuls of flodr whi _“th‘;e' : | S It is the old story of the majority not being able to carry off this fash- fon with grace or suitability, but that does not interfere with its popu- larity or prestige. Such pleces of millinery are more suggestive of the a bunch of quiescent sea gulls—the kind that Dr. Henry Van Dyke knows nothing about. They are placed lap- ping each other, their greedy bills cloged, their wings curiously elimi- nated; but there they are—sea gulls on a white duvetyn turban, for the beach and the water. Clever idea. New hats cannot be gone into casu- ally, for they are absorbing and ex- hausting. The formal hat of the hour was launched by Irene Castle—a huge Indian turban of mauve velvet with waving plumage like gigantic fronds tn a humid jungle. Lewis, the man milliner, is responsible fof such headgear, ard there is slight doubt that the idea will infiltrate through the entire line of millinery. The shops are showing them in quanti- ties. Americans are buying them, especially those-who are sailing home with. their autumn ideas. other side of the footlights than the restaurants or drawing rooms, but they have a sharp influence. The re- sult of their spectacular appearance here will be a widespread demand for wrapped and rolled turbans of heroic size. Another Indian fashion, also seen he introduction on the turbans, of bits of colored g in gold em- broidery. Naturally, ruby glass is preferred. as it is purely Indlan. It is used on . the smart Indian.jackets along with scroll embroidery-in dull gold, the design compact, but highly ornate and effective. These jackets are made up in black HOU S SEKEEPING L LI E—— A Cool Yet Nourishing Dinuer. : The- following dinner mepu Will ‘be found cool for‘a ‘hot day, Yet mour- ishing: - Sliced Cold Corned Beef Wwith 777 Cibbage Pickle. | New Potatoes. Green Peas with Dunipfings 1 * Pinapple Parfait.” | Quickly-made Cabbage Plckle—Put through - your: food -chopper a small head of new- cabbage and one .green gweet pepper.- Add to this mixture, oné scant cupful of vinegar, one-half cupof cold water, one tablespoonful of salt’and four tablespoonfuls of sugar. Let stand for two hours in 2 codl piace. Then strain off the liquid and add four tltblelpoon(ull of teen minutes longer, when the dump- lings wiil be done. Serve hot. (The dumplings make a few peas “strech” surprisingly far.) Pinapple Parfait— Beat together .| two egg yolks and three-quarters of a cup of-granulated sugar. Now stir into. this.mixture one cupful of sirup | drained from a can of pineapple. You @ust warm this sirup before adding {t-to the- sugar and egg mixture. Then: turn-the sugar, egs and pine- apple into the top of & double boiler and let cook, over rapidly bollifig water, until slightly thickened. €ool it, add & féw gratings of lemon rind and fold ‘it into ome pint of heavy cresm whioh yeu have whipped stiff. Pack this mixture into any mold or can - which has a tight-fitting cover, mayonnaise dfbasiis: e at once, | first dipping the meld in snd out pf This s a verxelicihs refigh for'ims the mixtury: with mediate use dfi thiniable.’? B Green Pea: green peas til as usual, and the water and add hot, sweet milk | them, instead. Now make your ling ‘batter as_fqollows: Mix togethpr one beaten egg and:owe- If cup of sweet milk; in“onk an en:ht:‘ ch has ben | with one heaping tciqmn:;l of ‘pak-. ri ing powder an& s pingh of #alt. Drop. swer' to Mrs. 2 this batter frefi:p tesspoon into the]you sia not write in, tife for med hot milk and pea: ”‘*fi‘m on pot]; !Mlll, my BW ang let thie hot n‘ulgn_‘ '(n'ar:g! "London Puts.Over.a Novelty Vanity Bag Which. Attracts Americans and Which Carries an ; Electric ILi'ght"Bléms With New and Gay Embroidery Are Observed—Just as Russia and } China Seem t6. Rule World of Clothes, Up Bobs a Blouse Definitely Indian—Gold Embtoidery ‘Is-Intersected With ‘Tiny Mirrors of Ruby Glass—Sea Gulls on White Duvetyn Turban Beach—Demajid ‘for Wrapped and Rolled Turbans. of Heroic Size. ) “; AT LEFT; WHITE INDIAN JACKET S UOVERED WITH BLACK THREAD EHPROIDERED AND BOUND AT EDGES WITH WHITE COTTON TAPE: THE FABRIC IS BLISTERED IN THE POPULAR WAY. AT RIGHT: BLOUSE OF WHITE GEORGETTE EPE, WITH CHINESE DESIGN, SHOWING COLORED FISH LAN- TERNS, WITH BORDERS OF SMALL CHINESE PARASOLS EMBROID- ERED 1IN BLACK, RED AND YELLOW. SCARLET SCARF EMBROIDERED IN WHITE AND CHINESE HAT TO velvet, for new tailored .suits and others imitate them with rows of green or red ribbon as a substitute for the embroidery. Instead of the ‘wide sash one expects on such a gar- ment there is a harmless and in- efficient belt of the material which runs around the figure just above the hips. In imitation of these Indlan or Per- sian jackets there are simpler ones of white cotton cloky, the blister fabric that Paris likes so well. The 'embroidery is done in black threads, the edges bound with silk braid. ‘These are not of the jumper variety. ‘They- follow. the flaring hip line of the Indian coats and they carry & wide belt instead of a tight hip band. By the way, it is certainly smart to bind up the edges of garments with braid. = s * % % & JHAT astonishes the Americans is the constant wearing by fash- fondbles of the type of frock we wore through the spring, with the tight drapery across the hips, ending, in some sort of drapeéry at one or both sides, the loose - bodice with long oriental sleeves or.mone_at all. It is here,: there . and everywhere when hionable folk get together. ~of the-micest additions to its entionality was chosen by an rican, Who substituted the usual ' brassiers’ b MATCH, WORN ON THE BEACHES. _— for the % real Val. lace. When she danced, lift- ing the arms, the softness of the fine muslin showing through the long V- shaped armholes was mnot only effec- tive and graceful. but novel. 'The, satin girdle binding the flesh beneath the arms has been omnipresent for|' six years. The change is welcome. Jumping from larger garments to accessories, which brings one back to the beginning of this story, Lon- don has put over & novelty vanity bag that Americans like. It has the usual mirror, lp stick, powder and puft, but in addition it has an electric light that leaps Into life when the spring opens the bag. No matter how dark the chosen spot, the light is the first aid to beauty. Another change in accessories: that has caught the quick Yankee eye is the fragile cobweb stocking in deep rose worn in the evening instead of|’ It is thin | the “nude” or beige color. beyond compare, giving the exact re- production of a deeply burnt leg, the rosewood tone contributing the bronze tint gotten by those who stay:in thed sunshine and sea air—by 1ife. guards; for instance. Sy . “Bare legs again,” sald the Amer-| ican at the Acacias. folly was ove: “Nothing so natural as bare legs” id the Frenchman. “They are the eight of artificlality, the last thought in the brain of the best stocking weaver, They represent the art that is cleverer than nature.” (Copyright, 1922.) “I thought that AA e > gfi €3 FAVORITE RECIPES | OF WOMEN ‘IY MRS. ROBERT E. SPEER. Chill Sauee. One dozen large ripe tomatoes. Four green peppers. Six onions. ‘All chopped fine.” . -‘One-heif cup sugar. o A few whole black peppers. | summer cottages. WHITE SOUTACHE. THE TURBAN SEA GULLS LYING FLAT. LANRNNL VoD L2 Q P Y VICTORIAN COMBING SACK WORN ON BEACHES AS SUBSTITUTE FOR SWEATER. IT IS OF WHITE DUVETYNE EMBROIDERED WITH IS OF MATERIAL TRIMMED WITH WHITE GEORGETTE BLOUSE WORN ON THE BEACH ‘'WITH NURSERY ‘CHARACTERS EMBROIDERED IN FINE BLACK SILK THREAD, LITTLE BOY BLUE BLOWS HIS HORN ALONG WITH THE REST. AT LEFT: DULL RED CREPE BLOUSE WITH WAISTCOAT EFFECT IN INDIAN EMBROIDERY IN TARNISHED GOLD THREAD SCROLLS WITH BITS OF RUBY-COLORED GLASS. —_—m——— When Table Is Bare. ‘We are sometimes inélined to, think that to eat on a bare wood table Is a modern Innovation, forgetting that it ia tablecloths and tablepads that are the embellishments of civilization and that our ancestors ate on bare wooden tables for a thousand years| or more hefore they thought of hav- ing any sort of table covers. Bare tables are the rule in most it simplifies the laupdry proposition and.makes it easler to set amd unset the table. But, there. are compromises between the perfectly bare table and the table with-a cloth. You may have those oildloth doilies -that need only to be wiped off with a damp cloth to be kept clehn or you may spread a pa- One teaspoonful of whole mustard. per.mapkin in: front of each place. 'One - tablespoonful of’ cinnamon. One tablespoonful of ginger. Two tablespoonfuls of salt. ~ Twelve ‘whole' cloves. « « n, 1 But bear in mind that if you use the oficloth covers you ‘must take paine that every spot'is wiped off promptly =l atter meals, for there 'is flo way of cleaning ‘fhedé "coveri’ once: thiey be- come redlly soffed, * T+ e There 4 perhaps nothing more at- tractive for ithe ‘summer table than plain deal top, unstatned and unvar- nished. Thi#f is kept clean by daily attention and needs only vigorous scrubbing to restore it to original treshness. “MIK or other foods thrt would miake grease spots’ should be wiped off.at once, as it is dfffcult, though' not impossible, to get grease spots out of ‘deal:top ‘tables’ ° Of course, fhé stained table is more durable, ‘But for the table that is to be iised’ withot & cover avold a high finish that shows scratches and mars. The Tedl advantage in tfie dexl top is that, though possibly not so durable, it may be washed thoroughly with water and somp without injury. Nowadays paint ‘manufacturers are making enamel paints that withy stand considerable washing. If you wish, you might give your table top one or two eogts of solia‘paint, fin- tshing “(With --on: ; coats ‘of enamrel “in the s A tagple finished. in. th _meed., Te- it bl P o