Evening Star Newspaper, November 27, 1921, Page 59

bt : THE ' SUNDAY KTXR, WASHINGTON; D. U, NOVEWBER 27, 1921—PART 2, ' 13 "thefr"money fnto it for &1 Kinds of;c ql ‘Women who had gowns of jt and who, Tunieh, exdeptia:top Wrap.. L tirider the spur of conservation belfeved |- BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. OMEN worry: about :fabrics : Aiie e it necessary to the: in_th 4 essal use m, saw in the when the season turns from The chance to wear - this -8eason 18| jay movement of sleeves a chance to- what is mi'A to what ds| - slight. There were gowns of It shown |rearrange the frocks into something bitter. in the early autumn which were fash-{ wearable. I . . ioned *with “sufficient ‘imagination to| These new sleeves have been the keep Jmerge -going for o -awh¥le, butthope of many old garments. A blue as the season advanced women be- |serge that can be cut into a pinafore came restless and thought they would | frock with square Hindu sleeves of prefef the mew allurli materials that|georgette crepe or: crepe de chine be- came out of Pari ien, bluf _serge | comes a_desirable thing. dropped into the gPOUR.~ It. e- | . The sleevs may be g0 wide and bril- came an occasional and not & um\'prsulllimll in their ornamentation that no material for city streets. iy ane notices the use of blue serge. "They want to know what will serve 1br the montits that demand two weaves of material, one that is thick for the siivet, one that is thin for the house. <4N long as we conttnue to overheat our Tobms, we cannot retaln street - s when we enter .the house. ‘As a3 our winters remain what they ; @rée we cannot wear the same fabrics . under the sky as under the roof. Such ) is the problem. Worhen do not object unless they have temperaments that de- mand strict economy, of time as well as ¥ moniey In dressing. 3 Most women. talk as-muoh’of their-in- s ability to find time to change into dif- ferent costumes as they do of the high : price of clothes and the consequent J limitation of their possessions. Ac- quisitiveness is a trait that remains in IRE the nature of woman, but she ié sadly 3 handicapped ir: this post-war ers by the fact that there is not enough money in the world to buy the clothes she ‘wahts. She must deliberately _choo: from |, much that is offered. The -Puritans,, ) who again attempt to dominate Amer- lea. would say that deliberation which s&ntails limitation is good for one’s soul. Maybe. We are embarked on S0 much that is good for our souls that we are quite sure history” will Te) as e * it did In the Cromwellian days, for the rmoment the stiffness of Puritanism was overthrown human nature went quite mad and indulged in clothes and mor- als. The wicked continue to read of the era with relish. It is not Puritanism that is behind & v woman'’s limitation in clothes this sea- s son. It is the, price. She must declde s Whether she ~ wants foX Wear cheap = | clothes that-dre 1n the Righest strata ' of fashion o€ -expensive ‘clothes, which f * .3 cost her sg much she mugt coffinue to 5 . wear thent When they s ndve beenf, ' : i * thrown into thg.discard. . : : * %k X ¥ [ FACH woman must choose’tor herself. |, “ The manufacturers could not live:if’ they did not supply vast quantities of the cheaper gradgé of clothes which per- P o mit women of small In¢mes to follow y - every new fashion and to be the first to discard it. % But there are women who will not J oress in such manner. They want some thing that gets into the picture of the { hour. They do not want to be com- pelled to “wear ~old. clothes when- skirts Tave changed their'cut and jackets arp enlarged into capes. The minds of inquisitive women turn to materials-today. They ask a hun- dred questions of each other, also | take the saleslady into :their confl- dence as to the best thing to buy. ; They. discuss its. wearaliie qualities, e i its ability~ to-clean.its .{endemcy tof v (3t soil, its: chances for afning” n 2} fashion. * They know the capfites off . the American climate. They canndt| ", buy clothes with the sureness of the English woman, who realjzes it.is the | Flandérs trepches forf hér as Tar 'is weathér goes, and, unlike the Frenieh. [, - they cannot look forward to an.evemfe ' temperature of mild days, wet nights - and drizsling rain to be endured until| | the horse chestnut (rees begin to bloom: - - The English and the French .can ‘ discard’ the- problem of the Buper- ¢ Tbeated house. They have mever en- | countéred that perplexing condition. The American, on the other hand, is entitled to ask these hundred ques- tions about fabrics and their color- ing, for she realizes she must e counter climate in the making, jud ing it by its caprices, its abnormali- ties and its utter disregard of the calendar. $ ‘ The European woman says that one 4 frock 4s enough for a'weman with ‘ a middle income; the American knows ‘ that one frock’will be too hot as . ? oftenas it is too cold. = She must have JEANNE LANVIN MAKES THIS NEW MANTLE OF VELVET W g ; ; Pt i 3 to keep up with the| A DULL FINISH. THE COLOR IS A FOG GRAY AND THE EMBROTDERY - . . 4 . I v Sous what] ISIN TRE FRESNGLE DEMSN.OHICH LANVIV LIRS ST B EER S rlety. e by ARE UNUSUAL, S0.18 THE TRIMMIN F THE SHOULDERS WITH FUR. is the best thing to buy and what| THE ROBE TO MATCH GOES BENEATH. will_give the best service, regardless 2 2 of French fashion. and without sug. gesting to her neighbor that she may ilain black velvet in the first rank as a | when even the average woman must be srowing dowdy. | serviceable evening cape the advice is way from the conventional ma- The dominant thing brought out by | worth much to those who wish to dress and this season urges her to do the autumn .callection is the fact that | well on. a.lmited income. it through is offerings of new weaves. velvet is to play a strong part this, = True, the more @xpensive evening l'?‘l:?nb:\';d “‘3" fll{ u:::&!t:.: d,fi,‘:‘: wraps are ‘made of gorgeous metallic L Gg i ight, under the .__There tigsues_ with_costly furs, but they do| DLUE i B or"any dount of i Fiebens. | toe redit bigner. tmitashion than, the | B abrie ut wemmn s 1t andor It will be worn in cheaply made] velvet cape. c, but women use it under frocks which will Ahow its poer qus Powder blue. embroidefed in steel | coats throughout the cold weather. They ‘ es after a few days’ service, by and silver threads, is the color of | realize that it shows spots as quickly does not hinder it faomm moving in the | velvet chosen for some ristocratic | piece of "mahogany. furniture. but they p:ls:e ntomo“z ,‘,'L—;.;;_ a g L1 (\; "r::s.wb:; I;!l;;l‘&_r:dml:;ltfl'réf €bn- | do not consider it worse {n this respect | JEANNE LANVIN DESIGNS THIS TURKISH ROBE IN SOFT, GRAY VELVET, Velvet should be ambitiots. Et!path, There is a: change T WO4n|than any otner material, so they put TRIMMED WITH GRAY RABBIT AND NAILHEADS OF STEEL. CHERUIT MAKES THIS FULL EVENING WRAP IN VELVET, TRIMMED WITH ERMINE. THE IMMENSE COLLAR MARKS IT AS A LOUIS XIIl ADAPTATION. THE COLOR OF THE VELVET IS A MIXTURE OF RED OR PURPLE, WHIOH THEY CALL LOUIS XIIL e = Mr. Kahn Has Just Returned From Europe ..~ 1 On this special business trip, Mr. Kahn personally selected and brought back with“Him'a remarkable assortment of new and un- usual Jewelry and other Gift articles.. The advantages of first- hand selection, the low rate of foreign exchange and important savings in middlemen’s profits are now offered to oar customers on such merchandise as: Dsiamond Rings Mesh Bags Genuine Ostrich Fans - Pearls Beaded Bags Thermos Bottles Chime Clocks Amber Beads Cigarette Holders And many other suitable as Holiday Gifts g Tas too closely attached to:rovaity | red -to dull green which is pleasing throughout its #arly carecr to be|to thosé who have tired of tropical wiliing to step downward in the scale] shades. It rests the eyes. of fashion without. turning mali-{ Dull green velvet, by the way, has cious. There are some who think itfcrept into fashion from ail sides. It ghould be kept for rovalt. but aslis used for cout suits, and for one- this type of mankind is dving out, if| pjece frocks that serve in the after- we believa the .exponents of the new |noon. Other materials in, this shade democracy, what they wear may not|ar. kasha and perllaine. Gerve as an example; it may be taken | Red velvet gowns are designed by Up. however, as an amusing imitation | the best houses, but they are not a to an extinct race. wise choice for the woman who is x x % X% limited in the amount of clothes she can purchase. e red velvet wn r['HERE Is a fasbion for white valvet o B pettest obits Eing t5 this winter that is reminiscent above the commonplace level; it of the throme. It is worn as a com- | descends Inte undesirable cheapness plete gown or wrap with its snow-| ' 1¢ perplexes many women to find like surface enhanced by fur. Again|that satin is not the trump eardyle it serves as a background for the|Was. s clear for her who does not wish to think Tint ot embroldery which the north.] ROt Wish Southink toamuch of clathos ern races brought up to the ice and|head, that evening frock: 11 be of snow from the ancient civilizations l-:.tj,‘ g':‘:elmflnfi; Btem that worry about some- of Persia and Egypt. thing else, but it is not a system to A white velvet coat trimnied with|follow. this. season. triangles of scarjet, black, yellow [ Crepe de chine started satin on its edged with threads of silver strung|downward - path., Then ttansparent through small pearls, makes“a gor- materials took up the dressmakers’ geous ' coat, especially -when edged thouihu and left little imagination witn blac tur, which is preferred_to | for the fabric which had served as & rown fur. - stand-by tiroughout generations. Therp aré white velvet linings to|Silk of !I-rk?“l weayes o‘lllled satin black velvet capes, the. kind that|as a lining for “evening A swing from the shoulders at the back [Silk jersey -teok its place for petti- after the manner of James the First. | coats. No'doubt the shops will still The white velvet would not be used|gell thousands of”yards of satin, but it it was not intended to show, 8o it|one holds to the opinion that it has serves an artistic background for|been beaten down from first place, a black--robed figure silhouetted! Satin is used for accessories, but against it.. even-then it is touched up with old What was once called panne velvet is | Italian embroidery or cut-out work. ¥ revived by the milliner for hats. The PR dressmakers saw in this revival a chance to use this soft, silky fabric for | (JNCE in a while fashion language rl d B \ Extraordinary Valuesin ne Diamonds Three-Stone Ring, X two blue-white dia- monds, % Kt, and a Real Pearl ir center. “This Fine g $100 All very fine color, beautifully cut and absolutely perfect— “Mérode” is hand-tailored Underwear! fragility is appealing - It Qs'h as comfort- | Kasha serge and kasha duvétine are ; able as crepe de c! -on_the body and oaloate S the Cvkward !o_ud“y’m"“ different weaveh of. the older and ;n-gt:rd craftsman; tht;e"rk of carefully Modals 'in” union suits and separate rained operators, the best materials.. . menty suitable for high or low dress A obtainable; - the ;most rigid fnspection: .__jp cotton, merino snd silk mixtures. from first to last—all these combine to For women, girls and boys and babies, keeps it from falling ugainst tie e| well-known material flng ::“: - d:::u‘thui llt dchu-. The kasha duvetine; 2N a1 'y m¢ n de P S eica thia seasen, despito. the: Zapt | Somand: 18,5514 19 be More durable than the deep Carthaginian girdle as well as is dotted with a new word and : L'&?JQP So::xd'{ii"fl?e;‘!,‘z’m@’fl‘;&‘,‘? ll';: Dub’:lc m: up to ask its meaning. ¥ v B Blue-W hite 1 Perf Di d. 1 10-100 K far G g e Y R T IR et iy i T i e Diamond Boewhite Dia | guzse, "1 | % Fomtoly Bechune” ey o roe Nave 11 | Lest Known. Today the new ones are underwear depends on many factors ~ tmooth Flatlock seams, dainty finishing : 4 Ring, 1 K 1 Perfect Diamond, 1 85-100 K : menuqu{lunrmd zr.::o&;m}':fin::fi kasha and perllaine. and conditions found only in the making in every way, make “Mérode” both com- Ring, 5 Kt. Mol s 5 $601 081- L o mont, i % Z a new fashion makes them secure Kasha cloth has a certain stiffness érode.” ractis H . An unusual value. e g Z N g e Pother weave of: velvet | 8ven by the hair that looks llke ofsihErode, ; fortahle ang. attrachye: . 1 Perfect Diamond, 2 Kt., $650.00. which has' depth to it, although -its | mohair running through: its .surface. |’ The experience of thirty ’jmu by a ? ? 3100 ¥ m % ;o‘f(;e)r(ect Diamond, 2 40-100 Kt., y 74 ik z ? % b | % _—~ Pearl | * that hoopskirts still prevail, . 4i-- | bear upon its velvety' gurface the im- - , Zoungeters wear -velvst.? 01d “Jadies| press of the hard kpocks it -'n'r':sn":; make underwear whose unvarying high | e 2 walsted aft: frocks of black velvet | poun of kasha duyetine and hot rise up quality never fails to give satisfaction. “Mérode” i¥: also miade for men—a dis- N : tinct advance 'in‘men’s underwear. Many ¢ A Za Opera fth fullnees i the skirts, at sides::and y 1 T aen hip. belt fastened with ik | mortifed. T ot e o Hasha 1o P e T B : and and ‘green lvet eveuning ci . r& A re e haceaonldarer s, at Rat Thess Wvaves have crept into the Joko on which is moynted a large collar | Fen Thfi_tlkem-_ and _people like “Mérode” garments are cut out one new features mgver befors perfected con- at a time by hand—not in dozens by tribute to perfect fit—and comfort that is machinery—they follow their patterns a joy. It is a union suit of real style and Glasses Witk the finest of gray squirrel. ¢ A woman ¥ho wad chodsing, dothes T g 1S e with bray Bk Gl Shird ! . 3 Rk : was accura every time, and rns comes in.all sizés, styles, and weights. it > 2 ;'59"“’:’:‘0:::“ ng “P‘“?:‘l'uf""'hm:@! of ig‘m‘fl;.:flf.?u"m'mfl'" e ‘are bued’on years :,f ;tud?ebtgql::;,n - i % % : 5 VlSl‘)le' Blf_ocal' Lcnges, French lenses; e Cwitn| There lsa tendency to disposs of ‘models.. The result is perfect-fitting “.","",‘,‘” :‘,;"I ,’,‘»n"" il 46 m'm' i Which daanat show the telltale dividing fine—&t the fow price of mi’ln";d ?chro- 3 3 g g y ey £ matic. Special— e answer was: ¥Black velvet with a Sotored Tining and-without tmuiing. | Gork Suits. for, the street, In e me The neck should be, finished 8o tNAL & | white with quantities of black of new * plece cculd be attached. The lining | White, With ASsfitIer 0 2 e turns to should be of brocade, preferably. If|n,uy hlue ~serge as something she fhis is not possible, make it ot dull- | FaC%s ™Sy 'is ot willing o risk the ; toned silk. The cape shouldbp clroulur | contents of ‘her purse on a more fash- | in cut and well-fitted ovér the shoul- | jonable fabric; the evils of which are a derx PR hidden - mystery. But there are_times HE woman asked if it should have - T ponings st the sides tor the arma. || D ANDRUFF ? «preferably not.” was the answer. It || | MRS LEADER, “1 have’ used Coon”t @ is simpler to wrap the folds of the mate- |} Hale r"m:.’-'im E:c f: . rial around the body. It keeps -one Many. similar . testimonials voush “for warmer than the cape which has.open- | Mrs. Coon's Hair.Toale -all::b Food. ings at the stdes to let in the cold winds." % Sines s % of such digtinction puts $1050 - ° R smufdit‘.jx% widh This Speial Ofer $10 . Winship, Bgit € Co., Wakefield, Mass. "_“Méroduefi;’vf;fii‘“.:i;L Underwear \ ~for Women, Children and Men - B ' T ] ¢ R DT S PO £ S e S L