Evening Star Newspaper, May 29, 1921, Page 59

(| QO AFTERNOON FROCK OF BEIGE CLOTH, EMBROIDERED IN BRIGHT RED AND COMBINED WITH-BROWN SATIN. THE LONG, OPEN SLEEVES REPRESENT ONE OF THE NEW SHI0! BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. | season of dullness in creativeness. the HE month of June is counted month of fulfillment to those who have upon by women and dress- originated. Therefore we should be at makers to settle the minds of peace with our clothes. those who are perturbed.| But this June is contrary to estab- France sent her model gowns to this|lished tradition. Nothing is settled. country in Mareh; America worked r:i"‘:" I‘"“ wear what d”‘"~" "“"""' g ch pleases xome and perplexe them out to fit her own people|others. Fashions always reflect poli through April and May; June is the tics and social movements; this sea FRIMMED WITH RUFFLES OF GOLD LACE OVER PINK SATIN. , WORE THIS FROCK HAD WHITE HAIR. BLACK AND GOLD EARRINGS : A SPANISH GOWN OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY WORN THIS SPRING. THE LINING IS MAUVE. THE SUNDAY' STAR, WASHINGTON, U. U. MAY 29, 1921_PART Z | A NNE RITTENHOUSE, One of the Leading Fashion Authorities, Takes Up an Interesting Subject—Skirts of the Season Are Not Standardized, and No Certain Styles Prevail—Prevalence of the Skirt and Coat—Bathing Suit Frocks Are Re- tained—Favored Colors—Brilliancy in the Afternoon Gowns, and Flounces Seem to Have Been Accepted. son they show their ability to do it. Each day brings up a new idea. Each woman seems to find something that no one else possesses. The dress- makers have thrown Jumble of | lovely thinzs on the the | world is scrambling for them. | | Let's gather up a few of the salient| fashions and get them sharply photo- | graphed in the mind as June begins. She who knows what has been ac cepted and what has been refused has | some chance of spending the summer in peace She can decide now for. the next three months and wait until September to take up a new battle of newer fashions. No * K Xk * | HER!-: is the truth about skirt: one style prevails There 2 fashionable tendency to cut them long in evening gowns: only the youns ac- pt the extra short skirt. | Those who do not like a heavy fab- {ric reaching nearly to the ankles find it agrecable to lengthen the over- drapery and cut it in irregular lines lat the hem. Son.c of the tulle and chiffon draperies are ten and twelve finches longer than the satin or taf- | feta skirt. This is a graceful eom- ! promise between the short and long | SKirt It relieves one from a strict | n. | Skirts for the street are short, but ithey do not aspire to the knees as ! they did last winter. They are about ‘twelve inches from the ground on voung women and ten on older wom- | en. Dressmakers have persuaded their I patrons to study the lines of the figure | before deciding on the length of skirt. ! Flat hips and slim legs permit short i skirts on a_middle-aged woman if she has a youthful buovancy of carriage: large hips and thick anklex demand a longer skirt, one with suficient full- ness to balance the bulk of the figure. There is no difference hetween the length of the coa: suit and the one- | piece frock when both are intended for street wear. The outstanding feature of the early season is the widespread popu- larity of the masculine coat suit. It returned to fashion ove night. It is a market; ‘made of wool jersey. of thin heme- spun, of tweed, rarely of serge and never of satin, when it is intended for the street. Summer suits are made of Canton crepe and taffet: All attempt at_ornamentation is abandoned. The French idea of the ar suit is accepted, which, after all. the original American idea of a proper street suit. Those who do not like the rough-surfaced materials take up tricotine and covert eloth. The latter is strongly sponsored by some of the best tailoring houses. Tt is an ancient and honorable fabric, this covert cloth, and the last genera- tion looked very smart indeed in fit. { especially when it was made inte sep- arate jackets for dark skirts. This is another revival along with much that we have taken from the family album. The details of the new coats are not perplexing. The costume is sim- plified in accordance with maseuline fashion. The skirt is narrow, has a seam at each side and a few gathers at the back to give it a graceful swing over the end of the spine. The coat rarely fastens; if it does, the buttons are below the chest. It has lons, nar- row revers: a belt is eptional. The really smart type of coat is shorter than finger-length. has no belt. is cut on square lines with a slight flare in the back. The choice of blouses is not limited. Those who like white wash muslin adopt it. Those who prefer silk jer- sey. georgette. crepe de chine over- blouses, wear them. The neck line is severe. The collar of the blouse does not come over the collar of the coat. The latter carries its own collar if the wearer feels that her neck has not sufficient youth to stand the line of cloth against it. Or- EVENING GOWN OF BLACK SATIN AND LACE, WHICH OWES IT INSPIRATION TO SPAIN. THE FLOUNCED SKIRT AND THE LOX WRAP BODICE ARE WIDELY AC- CEPTED. | | gandy and muslin collars are offered worn in the street by women who {by the hundreds, but the fastidious in good taste. woman chooses tea-tinted FEnglixh accepted mown is of opaqu eyelet muslin. A narrow. well fitted Any weave will do. Any color | collar of this i« put over the coat col- rve. even henna and fog gray, lar. Thus equipped, the blouse can be The bright colors, which are consid- what it will. ered correct for coat suits have * ok ok ok brought about an equal freedom of | "[HE one-piece frock for the street is not ousted by the tailored suit. Its supremacy has been challenged. but it holds a strong place in the wardrabe. The acceptance of the se- | vere coat and skirt, however, has re- pressed ornamentation on street frocks. They are modeled much after the bathing suit with an important change in the sleeves. The wrist- length sleeve is not always accepted. byt the bathing Suit sleeve is elimi- nated. The transparent sleeve is not They are often made of the materials used for jackets. The string girdle has given way to a_ narrow, ornamental belt. It is placed at the hip line and does mot| confine whatever fullness there is in the frock: merely breaks the line. The | broad colored sash which threatened | to overwhelm the continent in Febru ary was quickly restricted to after noon and evening gowns. Women who | wear it on street frocks are doing the wrong thing | It strength of the choice in colors for one-piece frocks. | | the 10| | | . FOR EARLY PICNICS | T is well to bear in mind that fashionable effort | sandwich with a dush of mfl,\'nnnul:«kt dressing is delicious at this season of | Cut the cucumbers very HE pienic is a form of social di-, version that is coming in for dressing revived attention, especially | thin “and put between thin slices of since automobiles have become | white bread. et i 2 X hen bread is ready to make into 2 household possession. Kor nobody | o, ey put one into a long bar tin: can deny that it is infinitely easier to | let stand until ligh!, then steam one plan and carry out a picnic if one, heur. Make a dressing of ham, veal and smoked tongue, chopped very fine has a car to rely on. and mixed with salad dressing. When In the days when many present-|the bread is quite cold. eut in thin day automobile owners had to make | Sices, spread with chopped meats and roll. use of the trolley cars, 2 picnic was| A sandwich filling with a flavor which puzzies is made by mixing half indeed often far too ardous to umh-r-I had tired themaelves out carrying to o s G Moreover, there was always that LA G haunting thought of getting home| Dates can be made. into many sa- again, with the necessary dishes and | orv pastes for sandwich flling. baskets and with the tired muscles that unusual duced. But now! 1f the automobile had no other vir- tues, it would still have that of mak- ing the picnic an easy form of diver- sion. So plan now to get up many picnics this summer. Your friends will enjoy them and o will you. And remember that it is not half the trouble to en- tertain half a dozen at a picnic as it is to entertain them within doors. * ok %k Make the foundation by stoning the dates and running them through the meat chopper. To a pound of this paste add the juice of an orange and the pulp that squeezes out with it, rub it smooth and spread between buttered bread. To a half cupful of dates add a quarter cup of chopped ©nglish walnut meats and a teaspoon of lemon juice and spread between buttered bread. Here is the rule for makinz a nut loaf that has proved to be very popu- lar in several households. It calls for one cup of chopped English walauts and an equal quantity of grated cheese and bread crumbs. Cook a half cup of chopped onions in one tablespoon of butter and a little water and the juice of half a lemon. When the onions are tender, add to the walnuts, cheese and bread crumbs. Mix, using a little more water to bind together. Season with salt and pep- per and form in a loaf and brown in the oven. Fish sandwiches are appetizing. Fish paste is now sold ready to use cither in glass jars or tuhes. It can alao be prepared at home by freez- ing any cold cooked fish from bones ands skin_and mincing it. It should taen be mixed to a paste with highly seasoned mayonnaise. If the fish is oily. a good deal of lemon juice, vin:- outdoor exercise pro- A variety of sandwiches is always desirable. Plain sliced meat sand- wiches are seldom served. The meat is generally chopped or minced and mixed with some relish. A very good combination consists of two-thirds of minced chicken and one-third ham and tongue, chopped fine; moisten this meat with mayonnaise dressing and serve betwcen thin slices of white bread. If the sandwiches are to be served quickly. add a lettuce leaf to each sandwich. A dellcious sandwich i{s made of finely chopped olives, mixed with a very little may- onnaise dressing. just a suggestion; «nd spread on thin white bread. An- other is made of cream cheese with finely chopped watercress mixed with l it. spread of white bread. Brown|gar or chopped capers can be used bread sandwiches of cream cheesc| Ripe bananas, mashed. seasoned ot , 3 and jelly, or with the tart jelly alone, | with lemon juice and sweetened to| SHOW THE STRIPES ON THE BIAS. will add to the variety and will ap- peal to your guests as something out of the ordinary. If vou can make the sandwiches fresh, a cucumber taste, make a hearty sandwich filling. | \N ORNAMENTAL FOB WORN AT The bread on which this filling 1s = Z upread should be only lightly but-|COLORED CLOTH, WITH SLIGHTLY tered. IT IS OF TURQUOISE BLUE THE WOMAN WHO ‘WERE ADDED. What Fashions Have Been Accepted by Women for Summer Wear? ] simplify and deaden street clothes] | has gained power: no woman should| defy it. To appear in transparent| crepe, half covered with fringe, gir- dled ‘with an ornate sash, showing gray stockings and suede slippers, is| to err in good taste Wide fur pleces continue in good fashion for the street. The broad scarf 18 considered better than the small animal. Fur attached to the coat is not in fashion. The woman who finishes off a good street costume with black patent leather or brown pumps and a hat of moderate size that shades the eves, without glittering ornament and gar- landed with flowers or bows of dark ribbon, is a woman who shows a good conception of being well dressed. There is a sharp distinction between the clothes worn for business pur- poses, for shopping, for the hours that are taken up with purposeful activ- ities and the clothes worn for ple ure. The woman who observes t distinction saves herself anxiety an self-consciousness. 1f she does not indulge in any kind of social life during the day she can eliminate afternoon frocks. There iz a large class of Americans, however, Who make what is known as an after- noon frock Serie for the evening Their lives are so simplified that they can do this with good rasult. Tt is in such ornate gowns that the dressmakers find a chance to use in- xenuity and to achieve brilliane: Transparent materials can be adopted. Beading, colored applications of cloth striped taffeta, patterned silks, stron 1y printed foulards come into full play just here. In these frocks the skirts are longer than those for the street, even though the length is_acheieved through the overdrapery. The full skirt is chosen as often as the narrow one. Lace flounces are accepted * ¥ k¥ ~HERE is no attempt to make a high neckline unless the fabric is transparent and is used across the shoulders and over the arms. The sleeves often reach to the knuckles. There is wide diversity in them. Some start with a short, tight band at the shoulder and stream downward to the wrist in slender sections which open and show the bare arm. Others are made of ribbon dropping in loose ends over a short sleeve of chiffon or silk net. No matter what they do between the shoulder and the wrist they are caught tightly at both these places. WOMEN in the Public Eye Mrs. Harriet Upton. BY MAR RET B. DOWNING. When the nineteenth amendment | became effective, the chairman of the {republican national committe, Mr | Hays, now the Postmaster General. lacknowledged the new order by ap- | pointing eight women on his board, of these, Mrs. Harriet Taylor rren, Ohio. is national vice chairman. Her headquarters are n Washington. Discussing her im- | portant position. Mrs. Upton said: {and | i In the Shops, ;. | “Although it i common error to THE WAISTCOAT THE SIDE. AT FULL SKIRT SHOW N DS RIGH BE LOW STRAIGHT-LINE G A LINING OF PLAID SILK. THE BODICE BUTTONS STRAIGHT UP THE FRONT AND ENDS IN A HIGH COLLAR. Lot s L A a member, together with seven others, the women's republican committee, this is rather anomalous, since a re- publican is a republican under the present equality. whether man or woman. 1 should say that a certain body of those who labored assidu- ously, first for the passage of the- - nineteenth amendment and then for the success of the present dominant party. have taken over the interests of women during this formative stage with a view of easing the re- sponsibility of those already hard pressed and of opening the way for- I'sm»n to grasp all their righ! 3 Just now the division of the re- Publican national committee, of which I am vice chairman, iw preparing for the congregessional campaign of 1922. We have divided the country into six parts and each member has been as- signed to certain work both in the Plan and the execution. I am sure no woman will object to our term that we are conducting a kindergar- ten. as while so many were ardent champions of the cause of equal saf- ~ ~ frage, the majority have not been deep students of party politics. This s now our mission, to persusde women to take over their duties in the serious, earnest way which they deserve, thereby causing men to take them more scriously. Wae are not helping to train women for offices or * for the higher grades of political life. But we do aim to fit them for any sort of post under the gift of the people and then we hope to see re- } Sults of the most gratifying sort. - When “that time comes, ‘men and Wwomen can make the fight for a cer- tain pla and we shall have more ™ definite assurance that the best can- didate will win." Mrs. Upton has devoted vears to po- litical study and was one of the tire- less workers in her state for the cause of women. Two years ago. she proved her political acumen by forming that celebrated organization known as “The Harding-for-President Club.” It began in a small way among the women of Ohio, but soon it had spread bver the adjacent states and Mrs. Up- ton had the busiest kind of offices in Chicago. She had supreme confidence in the candidate which she and other influential women had selected out of the diversity of excellent material which the republican party offered. She can therefore claim the honor of being. after the wife of the President, the original Harding woman, however the honor of being the original Hard- ing man may be contested. Mrs. Upton spends much time in Washington. but she and her co- workers will leave soon to make vis- its in every part of the country te further their ideas in this politieal training school, which they conduet from their national headquarters. Mrs. Upton is an abie public speaker and a writer of forcible, pithy Eng- lish. On the personal side. she is a charming and domestic woman and her Washington home in Stoneleigh Court is frequented by the most in- teresting people at the capital. of the shops shows a white blouse embroidered in in an all-over design and a heavy silk thread that almost seems like soutache braid Colored cotton crepe blouses, in Ty yellow, shades of blue and green. are made with white muslin collars and cuffs. They are in over- blouse style and are worn with white skirts. The conventional shape for the marabou of the summer is broad in comparison to the length. This scarf When pulled over the shoulders gives a shawl-like silhouette. DIRECTOIRE GOWN OF STRIPED BLUE AND WHITE CLOTH, WITH WHITE VEST. THE LONG SLEEVES THE WAIST LINE AND THERE 18 FROCK OF COPPER- “