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THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, MARCH 31, 1900-26 PAGES. polka dots, and is ned with further de LATE PARIS MODES > Early Wearers of New Gowns Receive Their Reward, ELEGANT AND STYLISH EFFECTS Dressy Costumes for Morning and | treet Wear. — AND SKIRT HINTS JACKET ms a impression aved n the | f thos ng of t ing for a mod- neral is omfortable yain {llusto: e | from Mon’ to on the fortune arders or and the | i la Chaise is cal | willenake ring expos! ion time, rices that they fancy they can screw out of the foreign visitors mark the Gaul as a person of imagination. A few per- | may be seen | or down the boule ms ¢ ostun | Marie Antomette Fancies. ti the L XIV s' specimen of ernoon tea was of black der and was he hips t he skirt double Arrow S It ading | nbroid- | ed the dey aits of the | 1 front under idery on mou: sh a bands and i bodice becom- and | s | | i } | | de of velvet, et and su heightened with whito gilt buttons used in ing for figures ne derness which the Some False Alarms. One must be happy wit hosiery whe silk or list then that wh ings are to be out exception nd to be a false rm. © in who s knows well that wear with low shoes the foot which afford. with Cindere Among the hose Worth ne nt des and hich ffset is the spring s thi which h 2 light summer fabri New Blouse Adaptations. To obtain very great novelty in a blouse ign is asking for the impossible in these when designers’ have for ason in and out, been sling for something new, and_ the number of varied pattern out each succeeding ris simply amazing. ‘Thre very preity ions of the mode of th shown. One of the an Eto cket of silk band insert of lace. The jacket ade to be worn over a vest of tuck- d chiffon. Another be was of dark ashmere, in box plaits in front and brightened ced with white cloth braid and 1 buttons. Still a third bodice of si cut deep, double revers, itched ¢ ty and falling back from of guipure lace over chemisette in pretty gown for m¢ re when fou combine two qualitte might supp ning street wear for it should r than on s just de Tre- y with a tucked tnium ‘colered cloth set 4 of cloth cut with an curves. A vest of the fronts of the a 1 and -colored skirt is cut with a rounded with a stitched band and 2ps of “ed of box p an arrangement that gives it an » fulines: A Living Model. Rejan 1 to be the best dr 1 Mme. In the play in which she ring one of the gowns is meeting with even more than 1 meed of approval. It is one of ipt costumes that may be ernoon or evening functions, e it is high in the neck, owing to a clever arrangement of many ‘chiffon. pl: underneath a high collar of a sil The gown 1 eut with a bodice very ich rounded out to of a draping of silk, is » the alxo being cut in front to show an underskirt of The silk of the gewn 1s one of those changeable moon- and is touched u > with an embroidered bord leaves. along the of laurel An Unlimited Choice. An Inquisitive customer anxious to secure the very latest skirt, asked, “What is the TWO SPRING WALKING GOWNS AND A BODICE, upon the patron, madame."" | all the pot gr | being fashion of the skirts you are making for yeur best patrons?” “It depends altogether The fact is, one ain skirts, skirts with the rear box gathered, skirts with overskirt ape and skirts plaited, triple piaited, and then the e style. It is a transition en the great couturiecres are re of themselves and are there- of being put on record until the style has crystallized Into some one dis- tyn short bolero jacket 1s to be popular ar. It will be elaborately ed with bands of embroi- It is usualiy made with wide olars and slips over a tight- lice. after a couple of days spent ops looking at the so-called spring m convinced that there is very is really new. Most of it is a ntion of the modes to which we have | modifi been used for a couple of seasons. CATHARINE TALBOT. ee HOUSEHOLD HINTS Spinach, which the French people aptly “the brcom of the stomach,” is one of the most delicate as well as healthful of ; while so readily dors it respond to the attention of the market rdener that it can usually be found in the markets the whole year round. is one of the vegetables that improve by warmed over. Indeed, the French housewife usually cooks it by the quantity— leoking forward to Its reheating. It is re- ated of Bri n that after his cook : for him thirteen times Lit ov PM ) much gratified by its improve- ment that he declared he would never eat it again until it had received its thirteen consecutive warm Like the majority of pot greens, spinach should be blanched, and like the rest, first thoroughly looked over and washed. Cut off all the stalks nd after looking over the leaves put them | in a large pan or tub of cold water, Plunge them up and down to remove the sand, then the leaves out into a second pan of Do not at in th that leaves the sediment which has the bottom. Rinse yet a third time | ard cook in a very little ling salted water for fifteen or twenty minutes. Drain it into cold water and when cold drain in. Put the nd cut fine. leaves in a chopping bow! Have ready in a spider or frying pan a tablespoonful of butter, add the nd spinach n with salt and pepper little cream, if desired—in which case butter will be needed. Heat thoroughly nd serve on a hot dish, surrounded by toasted bread points. The yo:k of a hard- boiled egg put through a ricer over the n “l spinach makes an effective appetizing garnish. and An excellent en tic used by the French ng floors is made of on2 pound z and one pint of turpentine. the wax in a water bath of gentle When quite soft remove from the fire t In the turpentine until it assumes of a paste. This polish, It rememb»re extremely inflam- nd great « must be taken in mixing {t not to allow it to come in contact with the fire ady to use melt over the register 1 of warm water un- til it is soft as butt Spread a thin layer over the cloth-covered brick, begin at one corner und polish in lengths, letting the new rew overlap enough to avoid showing stre corners have to be done with and on the knees. If there 1 the floor put on oxalic st. then polish, Bad spots may be rubbed off with steel wool. Much labor may be hed hardwood floors by > or weighted brush. ed in the care of us? of the the nt substi- » at home by covering a h carpet and catching It in a » with a long handl2 used for scrub- Spinach j brushes made of Russian bristles are strapped to the feet ilke skates. Cloths used for olljng waxing floors should ba kept ctean by king them for half an hour in a strong Solution of sal- soda. Stir with a stie¢k. The water should be hot, and the cloth8 finajly rinsed in the vater that has a ltile oi, in it, generally ng two tablespoonfuls of oil to two quarts of water. In this connection, again,comes the word of warning against the wholesale use of old rags for cleaning purpos34 It is a false economy to furnish domestics with frayed dusters, linty towels’ and mops and scrub- bing cloths which fall t6 pieces in the using. A good share of the plumber's bills inst which we inyeigh so bitterly come y reason of these very rags and shreds, ich soon clog the pipes. leading from h and sinks. Before commencing the spring cleaning the wise wéman will see to it that an abundance of. whole cleaning cloths, suitable for windows, woodwork and floors, are in readiness, an that as each day's work is finished the cloths are ewashed out and dried ready for the next day. = The secret of having croquettes firm and not grease-soaked lies in their being mixed for at least two hours before using. The meat should be chopped very fine, being freed first from every particle of fat and gristle. Allow to each pint of the meat one- alf pint scalded milk, one tablespoonful of butter, two tablespeonfuls of flour, a table- spoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoon- ful of salt, a half teaspoonful of pepper, a quarter teaspoonful of nutmeg or grated lemon peel, as preferred, and a teaspoonful of onion juice. Cook the butter and flour together, add the milk little by little until you have a thick, smooth paste. The sea- soned meat fs then added to the white sauce, mixed thoroughly, and the whole turned out ol. to ¢ When quettes, dij fir: bread crumb: The war between the “ who claim hat ly to use, mold into cro- in beaten egg, then in fine and fry in smoking hot fat. weet tooth” party, the liking of children for candy is legitimate and should be recog- nized, ani those opposed on _ dietetic grounds, is still on, but the pro-sugar fac- tion have a new argument on thelr side. It is stated that our War Department, tak- ing their cue found that su; from the Germans, have ur improves the endurance of soldiers, and has recently added candy to the rations of the American soldier. One New York firm alone has sent fifty tons of candy to the troops in the Philippines, Cuba and Perto Rico. The sweets are sealed in onc-pound cans of an oval shape to fit the pockets of a soldier's uniform. Chocolate creams, cocoanut drops, lemon and lime drops are said to be the’ sweets preferred. * The best scouring terfal for steel knives can be found in half a new potato ind a little fine wood ashes. The potato is also much easier to v with bath brick than the bit of rag which the ordinary :tid-of-all-work is apt to employ for this purpose. eee For the Home Dressmaker. Lightly soap the seams of your skirt before ironing them instead of dampening them, which is apt to stretch the cloth. Also, when putting new braid on a skirt, dampen it first and then iron it, as this prevents shrinkage In buying dress materials, before you de- cide on the price you are going to give and can most easily spare, you should care- fuliy constder what w pu have to ly in all : bu it some hard work, give as much you can pi sibly afford for the mate and you be fully r it ng q on the you live at hom can sp: in all kinds get a material; it will enough for your purpose. Remember that even if your frocks get bby there may still he a great deal of ur in them. First of all, see if the ma- rial will turn or if it will clean; but if sl w both of these expedients are futile, then A coquettish Mitle Easter hat of cream and snow-white straw wi ven together with charming effect. Renaissance lace fs entwined with the pretty rolling brim, and there is a large white taffeta rosette that very nearly covers the crown. Tea lng rhinestone buckle is fastened in the taffeta bing brushes. If there are plenty of active children or young peuple in the family a novel plan is to wrap pleces of ingra!n car- pet around thelr feet, strike up a lively jig on the plano and turn th> children loose. In an orphans’ home in New York state the children, supplied with woolen socks over their shoes, merrily slip and slide about, hand fn hand, to the accompaniment of appropriate kitchen garden songs until the floors all over th> building are delight- ful to behold. This is similar in its results to the French method, where polishing BEB eee eee *“c Perfect Food’’ ‘* Preserbes Health’? VG Prolongs Life’’ BAKER’S BREAKFAST COCOA “Known the world over. «.. Received the highest in- dorsements from the medical gy Practitioner, the nurse, and the intelligent a and caterer.” —Dietetic and Hygienic Gasette. Walter Baker & Co, uu. . DORCHESTER, MASS. mw a Trads-Mark on Every Package Established 1780. roses form a deconition in the back, and a gj folds. rk- A TIMELY TOPIC Spring Hats Seem Prettier Than Ever Before, WHITE FELT HAS A SEASON AHEAD Turbans and Round Forms, Both Stiff and Dressy. ~ ee TRIMMED SAILORS REMAIN Spectal Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, March 28, 1900. This is one of those rare and restful seasons in which the spring hat does not strike terror to the eye. Usually the first spring bonnets, coming as they do before the robins and at a time when we are still in the mood for somber shades, are loud, or at least look so to our eyes, un- accustomed to gay colors. For one thing, the contrast fs not as great as usual. All winter long white hats have been seen In the evening, and for the last month pink or pale blue stitched taf- feta affairs have been worn to teas and receptions, as well as to the theater. It has been an “open” winter, and frocks and bonnets have been bright in color, partly because of the weather and partly because we grow more cosmopolitan and cheerful in our tastes year by year. The materials of which the new hats are fashioned are various. To begin with, white felt will bé worn all summer. It has a beauty quite of its own, which straw nnot approach. With white lace, white silk or white wool dresses {t fs more ap- propriate than straw. You can buy a white felt now and wear it with afternoon frocks and for dinners at hotels or res- taurants and constantly to the theater un- Ul you are ready to leave town, then have the dust of the metropolis cleaned from it, and lo! it is ready for white frocks during the summer campaign. White felts are more severe in outline than straw hats. The former are very often seen with a rather high crown and a straight or droop- ing brim. The usual trimming is white ostrich tips and black velvet piled high on the left side or a long plume curling over the brim, perhaps a white pompon and a touch of black velvet or a bunch of pink roses under the brim. Favorite Turban Shapes. There are white hats of silk or lace with- out number, and they, too, will be worn all summer, The favoite shape is a turban rolling rather high in front, especially at the left side, and low in the back, with a low, round crown. This 4s called the “Miss Hobbs,” Is becoming to every one and has only one failing. It is too popular. It is made of white, pink or pale blue tucked which is put over the wire frame. the only trimming is a large knot at the left side, which may be black vel- vet, tulle, chiffon or pompons. Hats of this hape made of pleated chiffon or of yellow lace over white are even prettier and so far not quite so numerou: In straws the weaves are very Ight and airy. Tuscan straw, which is featherweight on the head, vies in favor with Neapolitan or rice straw of a decade ago. On account of these transparent weaves there is a ten- deney to face hats with soft fabrics which le prettily on the hair, and by their artistic folds are responsible for a large part of the becomingness which is such a cheering characteristic of the er hat. So transparent, Indeed, are the straws that they can be bought by the yard, many of them, and before your very eyes your milliner will crumple up for you a hat out of a flat piece of straw, and it will be very much crumpled, too, yet extremely pretty. It may end with a fluted crown and a large bow, all of straw, mind you. So popu- lar are these straw hats that one can buy them in any color and shape, from toque and turban to walking hat, with the straw so manipulated into hat and trim- ming that the only necessary addition is a bunch of flowers or a knot of velvet or silk, according to the character of the hat. Quite Out Do the Toque. Turbans and round hats of every de- scription are rather more popular than the toque of last summer. One woman said the made turbans reminded her of the ban- danna handkerchiefs her old “mammy” used to wear. Not in color, she hastened to explain, but In shape. And really they are very much like that, only “ole mammy’s”” aim was to have her turban on straight, while those of the present day are apt to droop a little over the right eye and have the trimming higher on the left side than in any other place. A turban of cream lace and white chiffon which was worn to the theater the other night was not only much the shape of “‘mammy’s” bandanna, but its principal ma- terial came from the land of the cotton and the cane, where It was fashioned by the skillful and patient fingers of a southern girl in the oid plantation days. It was a wedding veil, made and worn by the grand- mother of the present owner of this dainty headgear. The foundation of the turban is, of the white chiffon. Draped about this is the old wedding vell, now so soft and worn with time that the net which forms the center is threadbare. But the pattern embroidered all around the edges, and at least four inches deep on the ends which covered the face and hung down over the train, has only grown more beautiful with the lapse of time. The veil is so disposed that the net ts tucked away, but the edge shows all around the hat and forms a knot or rosette on the left side. Poised on top of this is a gauze butterfly, which was made by the clever fingers of a worthy descend- ant of a woman who could embroider her wn wedding veil. The body of -the butter- fly has silver wire crossed on it just as the lines cross the body of the real insect. The wings are of silk gauze, outlined by silver wire, while the delicate silver and gray shading on the wings of a white butterfly is simulated by the clever use of water coi- ors. There is a little jeweled pin, the only bit of color on the hat. The whole effect is charming, but I rather fancy the first owner of the veil would be shocked at her WHITE NAINSOOK WAIST. This dainty white waist fs cut as simple as possible from Rery -conmtothiay er squares of alternate open and knot embroidery. These 1 by rows of fine tu Soft turn-over collar and cuffs. The waist closes in th lant, who has deliberately offer after offer, and has now so compl turned her back upon all thoughts tering the “holy estate of matrimony her precious heirloom finds use on a bon- net instead of on a bare head crowned with | ¢ orange blossoms refused J fectly co; hands ng season. Walking Hats. ion you ¥ slish Stylixh Must In the amples Ht find twe of ~ hats are not overirimmied, are extren For Practical Uses. but not becoming to every style For every-day wear you must have a| The trimmed sailors I had he straw turban, English walking hat or trim- | deal about. far only a few med sailor, and you can get them quite as | have been seen, and then In well now as later, for the flowers for trim- | shops. But they happen to b. ming will never be fresher or the number of ; 4 fashion which approa shapes to be had more numerous. The tur- | f or five years ag 2 young weman of m bans with their rolling brims, built up on | fered to be cerieushe the left side with chiffon, liberty silk, lace , or straw bo with flowers below th spring s brim nestling against the hair, are quite | ™ = poe fe the crown ¢ hats trimm: | actly way this spring shops, only now the flow hair are on the ‘eft Th at 1 frie subje n my 1 th at ephemeral bubt net that she is wi easily and whether it i patch it, quite to ancy Straw and Lace. There ts a modified extrem: becoming to finished recently aster bride ack fant insertion. » worn wh for the trousseau of alternatin straw an hree black tips left side, wh stled against the the only relief from the ble single brim on rosebuds 1 th hair k Town. Some of the schemes of co’ ww are the harmon: For § of shades. a _viol> stan raw t different tones of one sh —_»—___ elaborate enough for E: Girls and Their Figures. provident thought that aster wear, with a fuer they have lost young faces. no worthy and of interest to women who study impossible good They ful, ch ts One k streamer of very wide soft black ribbon came down over the left shoulder ter forming a little drapery about the comini MABEL BOYD, ed about which in careless, graceful s there was a scarf of violet liberty silk. Fancy with this pink rosebuds. It was a symphony and carried spring in its folds r combination was of varying shades of pale blue with turquoise, These were combined in a toque of pale blue immed with chiffon, liberty sili , all of blue. dent, ns Stiff corsets are unknown in France. their freshness and June is coming on, gar-| french corsets are alee « den hats, plain sailors and stitched white |) TT hie ang thie mach oem ; a canvas nals eon wales Ce pendable, and this much accounts for the At an opening in one of the shops noted | ease of French figures, which are never for its spring hats a turban of an | tightened excepting at the waist, leaving Straw wes much admired. ‘Tuscan, thé bust and hips quite free. In England member, is a very deep shade of c Sin te ce i cpu kn aes cane ie es oe the figure is u tightened In too much s of vary- ing shades of green, quantities of pale green ribbon brocaded in the same color wer e bust and hip ht a look to th which gi figure and m draped about it, and on the left side, where nd_uncomfortable, the trimimng always re: bunches red ungraceful by th of green crepe flowers. Roses one would y girl try to lace her stays only call them, on account of their shape. Gri at the st. and let her select her st rcses are not remarkable at all. TI as soft and light as », and the black roses, too, great petaled if her figure be not ful i pe fairs. and as elastic as th graceful and Another turban shown at this shop or F No tight, straight- the same day was of cream net, Tu even lacing will ever make a pretty pattern, beautifully crumpled into’ the tur- ban shape. “Crumpled” is perhaps an un tidy word, but one cennot model hats as on “ corset cannot be ma suit the figure, then only & hen no real until they the does clay, and they are manipulated too | the middle at the waist. E much to be merely shaped. But to return | corset ould be worn by gir! to the trimming of this turban. It was] are well in their teens. Remember, simply folds of pale green and violet Mb- | softer the corset is the easier it will be, erty silk, twisted together, while drooping | and the tighter it may be over the left side was a single orchid of the most delicate shades of purple and laven- der. These exquisite flowers can be per- waist without feeling uncomfortable. is the on! said, without injuring the health. laced at the This y way to mold the figure, as it is renovate {t with some inexpensive stuff. Cut a pointed bodice into a round one and insert a smart silk front, with revers of the same material and cuffs to match. Run braid down seams that are getting shabby and, to cover stains, make patterns of braid. If worn out beyond hopo round the bottom of the skirt, cut it short or use for cycling or muddy weather. There can be no greater snare to the owner of a slenderly furnished purse than to think that economy is achieved by buy- ing up dress remnants at a sale. There can be no more fatal mistake. The length is seldom long enough for use or it is yards too much; and, on opening it at home, we often discover, to eur dismay, sun marks or dust stains that go through several breadths. For a blouse or skirt these rem- pants may be of use if carefully examined, but for a frock it is far better to buy fresh material and to get just the number of yards you require. oe Baked Carp. Clean and scale a large carp, prepare a stuffing, place it within the fish and sew up. Brush the outside with the yolk of an egg and cover with bread crumbs and drop but- ter over it. Place the carp,in a deep earthen dish, with a pint of stock, two sliced onions, two bay leaves, a bunch of herbs, a half pint of port and six anchovies; cover the pan and bake for,an hour. Place in a stewpan a good-sized piece of butter with a dust of flour. When this 1s melted pour in some of the liquor from the carp with a tablespoonful of mustard, a little salt and cayenne; boil this up again. Serve the fish on a dish garnished with parsley and slices of lemon and the sauce in a boat. _—__ ——__ Fried Whiting. Clean the whiting, remove the skin, turn the body so that the tail can be fastened in the mouth and roll them in flour. Then brush them with an egg well beaten, dip in bread crumbs and fry in oil, butter or hot lard. Serve them on a napkin, garnished with parsley. Serve with shrimp or an- chovy seuce. —_—_ Fashionable Manicure. Among French elegantes the nails are no longer worn long, but are cut only te come just beyond the finger. . MOTHER owes it healthy mother. Pregnancy and shock of c! complete breaking down. until the sufferer realizes against abuse, within her grasp, can Crass, functions, ever made. It is for sale For advice in cases, requiring Ladles’ Advisory Department, every mother—every woman in this land Pay the debt of personal health she owes her loved ones. Do you not want robust health with all its privileges and leasures? Thousands of women who have had the shadow of emale weakness removed from their lives are, witnesses to the wonderful relief Wine of Cardui brought them in their time of need. strengthens the female organs and quickly relieving all attendant suffering and dis- tress. For every female ill or weakness it is the best medicine by all druggists. Ask for Wine of Cardui and take no substitute under any circumstances. Gormer, Mich., July 10, 1899. When I commenced using McElree’s Wine of Cardui I was hardly able to walk across the house. walked half a mile and picked strawberries. When my other child was born, I suffered with labor pains 24 hours and had to raise him on a bottle, because I had no milk. After using the Wine during pregnancy this time, I gave birth last month to a baby girl, and was in labor only three hours with but lit- tle pain and I have plenty of milk. For this in my health I thank God and McElree’s Wine of pectal, directions: address. giv attanooga Medicine Company, C! HEALTHY MOTHERS. to the loved ones in her home to be healthy. But one rarely sees a perfectly The constant care of young children, following closely upon the anxiety of id birth is a tax upon a woman’s system that frequently results in a Believing that such trouble will wear away, treatment is too often postponed, e that although nature struggles hard it must at length give way. A sick mother who suffers the agonies of “female troubles” is a burden on her loved ones and can neither enjoy the charge the responsibilities, of a parent. privileges, nor dis- With Wine of Cardui with Mrs. This pure Wine invigorates weakened Two weeks after, I great improvement ardui. Mrs. EDWIN CRASS. symptoms, The ttancoga, ‘Tenn.