Evening Star Newspaper, July 30, 1898, Page 17

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, JULY 30, 1898—24 PAGES. Yo SEEN AT THE PIER ne Handsome Summer Dresses That Stylish Women Are Weaving. D DAINTY MUSLINS — TALLOR GOWNS A At the Bathing Hour When the Beach is Crowded. BRILLIANT AND BIZARRE Sg (Copyrt by the International Literary and ews Service.) 1898, spondence of The Evening Star. ANSETT PIER, R. L, Srecial Ce NARRAC —P July 28, UMMER VACA- tion exigencies re- cently made it nec- eseary for a Brook- rnite to send a cer- tain hotel proprictor a letter reading in part as follows: “My fourteen-year- will reach you from Boston cn Saturday aft P sign him a re My wife end 1 will arrive from New Yo-k by a later train. “But, John,” said the anxious mother, “how can that boy -ver manage alone? dear,” ansvered pater fari a long head. W all iven him t you fret; T find when ve get tnere they've a summer young man. The pretty girls at Narraganset young men scarcer than ever; but they are too proud of their soldier boys to Jet the fact trouble them. They dance less; bathe, golf and cycle more than common, and idie away many hours curled up under Lright pavilions on the sand, éreaming perhaps of herces in Cuba. Every morning a gay procession of wheel- women starts from the Pier for the links reduced rates find of the South County Club, where the girls golf in cling costume. Cool-looking duck, pique, crash or serge skirts are the rule, with bright shirt waists and ecailor hats. or, in rare tnstan: sun bonnets. If the wind is off shore, scarlet or navy blue jackets come out, adding d tes to the brilliant picture. n trip every wheel is laden ry or the white and fra- ossoms or great pink mal- giving the Pier folks a daily flower The Bathing Hour. bathing hour, when the beacl is wit ators, the bebbirg up of scarlet, blue and white para- . the glint of the sun on yellow, green, 4 heliotrope, and the sparkle of the background, lighting up all es of gray and brown and an electrifying spectacle. With sweeping th. its airy, diaphanous texture, 3 daring colors and mixtures of . its swirl of flounces, its cobwebs of and its flutter of ribbons, dress at the this summer {s the most pictur- ne present generation has see 8 the Direc- tl an@chronistic frankne orian, the Empire. ng holes 4s like a shuffling of the cos- of all ages or a confusing of the dress designs of @ series of historical plays The effect is brilliant, bizarre. Isolated figures are beautiful. In groups the pre- domi of white makes the high lights effective. Go nearer and the awbacks to a muslin season emselves. Gowns of long resi- have felt 2 “sea turn” or two themselves more clinging and affec- te of disposition than their creators a ther sand chaff into nge also S are mirth- when the n Caught up, lik ing coat-tails. Bu € of the horrors of glaring of ir the where I ™ sit walk a rshmallow yellow. h alike, and the gar- © called offensive, under more effective than it them and joins sol. € one or two s. The figure dark girl in a sore. A brob- buckle fastens a popp r waist, a white chif- Iders and her red er; i red mousseline de m, girls, who chatter are in the bureau mat of of the days when we dotted muslin over arrow ruffles. They y washable slender and graceful, comes from the beach in a swathing, own of paie mulberry color, witit se black velyet bows called Louis s twisting and twirling across the its own dizzying fashion. On her broad Tuscan hat is a ‘second Louis knot catching the black net wreathings. On the He sc Under a red and white beach canopy two sisters are pretending to sketch, but their crayons have scarcely been lifted since the afternoon parade began. One is in mauve Inen with blue linen decorations and the other is a companion figure in sky-blue lin- en ornamented with Valenctennes. & picturesque-looking woman with silvery aa they pass “splast wer oon; | | hair and a delicate pink and white complex- fon keeps fast hold of the hand of a tiny sailor lad and looks neither to right nor left, though many eyes follow her striking figure in dead white serge with large black Manila straw hat trimmed with pale yellow ostrich feathers. A woman who seems te have strayed to the beach from scme lunch party in one of the little summer houses by the casino Wears the most charming of white muslins, its skirt delicately embroidered almost to t, the scams set together with in- sertion. The st shows a lace guimpe and muslin fichu, with black velvet Louis knots fastened by heavy, old gold orna- ments. A twisted scarf of black velvet worn about the shouider and tied in front has long ends falling nearly to the ground. A Fetching Costume. Standing out conspicuous from the throng of muslins, veilings and the like is a@ cream-tinted foulard ringed with rose- pink and ornamented with true-lovers’ knots thrown about the skirt in cerise yel- vet ribbon. The bodice has a guimpe of embroidered muslin with strappings of ross the shoulders. The hat shape of Leghorn straw, ith pink roses and tied with nar- trimmed w row cerise velvet strings. A dress of turquoise-blue silk is checked with fine white lines. From the knees to the ground the skirt is covered with nar- row, full flounces of fine white net edged with black velvet ribbon. Similar ruffles encircle the shoulders, bordering a trans- parent chem or cobweb-like puffings. The white leather belt corresponds with the white straw hat turned up with black and white wings. Above all rides a bal- loony blue and white parasol. A blue and white checked velling dress worn with a rt white jacket is about as attractive as arything in view. Like it but more brilliant is one in a red and white check, also of veiling or some similar ma- terial. It is worn with a short, tight-fit- military red coat fastened with small tal buttons In Tailor Dress. A trim girl in tailor dress of white serge decorated with large flat gold buttons is the picture of restless activity. Her white sailor hat is ornamented with a big Louis knot in navy blue. A taller girl is no less freshly dressed in white alpaca trimmed | with many narrow bands or tucks, the Hines | of which intersect each other at intervals. Her hat unburnt straw with tall j | bows of black velvet and a few white roses tuc | } | is ef ed under the brim. Some of the mest effective hats are trimmed with large arum and calla lilles. A_white sailor in evidence has its brim lifted on one side by a black Louis knot, wh its crown is wreathed with flag Jeaves, with which are mingled yellow and cream colored lilies. Out in the water bob the bright caps of the bathers, red, white and red and blue. There are no sensational bathing costumes, in spite of newspaper stories of jewels wore in the sea. Red and white, blue and white or all white, are the neatest and brightest bathing suits; brilliant spots of color they make floating on the surface LLEN OSBORN. of the summer sea. E oo IDEAS NEW Modern Arrangements Contrive to Make Them Clean and Orderly. From tbe St. Louis Globe-Demoerat. The closet is always the treasure-trove of the room, yet how frequently {s it the most confused and rage-provoking of all places—simply because there Is no system or economy of space exercised therein. The modern house, which is supplied with elec- tricity for lighting, is indeed badly over- looked if there is not a drop-light in every closet. How much provoking rummaging it saves, and how nice and orderly is the arrangement when one has bright light for an assistance. A well-planned house—because designed by a woman, and women know the value of closet space—has a roomy closet in every sleeping room. One end has shelves ex- tending from the ceiling and almost to the floor. These are for boxes of every class, for millinery, and all the fixings of the toflet which require a careful putting away. The lower space below the shelves is for shoes, and has a small spring door to close it in, for strive as one may, somehow closet floors will get dusty, and it is a nuis- ance to have to wipe off one’s boots every time they are put on. The remaining end has two strong narrow beams run across 80 that two rows of garments, instead of one, may hang. and these haye drop hooks set at regular intervals. At the back a plece of coarse unbleached muslin {s secured to the wall, and left long enough to reach around and cover the clothes that are hung there, thus completely covering them from dust. My lady only hangs her finest clothes bere, such as are not required for datly wear, the latter being hung in the ordinary manner along the back of the closet. The closet is large enough for a small camp chair, is little woman fs of such a idy disposition that she usually undresses in her closet, finding !t more convenient to hang up her clothey as she disrobes, and to lay out tomorrow's garments while she bas the light turned on. A regular storage closet should have a number of good, strong hooks in the ceil- ing, and heavy winter garments, fur rugs and the like, after being sewn up in strong bags or securely tied in medicated paper, bung up for the season away from dust, mice and moth, the hydra of summer’s anx- jety. Wise builders make the inside wood and shelves of cedar wood, which is espe- cially offensive to vermin of all sorts. 2 The American woman has learned from the Japanese the trick of altering the size of her rooms by the judicious shifting of her screens. ——+e+—- “ALL Flesh ix Grass.” (Copyright, 1898, Life Publishing Company.) Then is Smithers pushing a load of hay up bill? HOUSEHOLD HINTS “We are fond of a nice, rare roast of beef; but when we get one large cnough te have it rar2, it lasts forever,” is the oft- | repeated plaint of the provider for a small family. With the ordinary way of roasting | in a hot oven, two ribs seem a necessity if ene would have from the center the juicy, pink cuts beloved of the gastronome. A de- licious, rare roast may, however, be evolved from a one-rib cut, if managed in this way: Pui some small bits of suet into the dripping pan, and set on the front of the range. As soon as the pan is smoking hot, lay the little roast, rolled and skewered, seasoned with salt and pepper and dredged With flour, into the hot pan to sear. As soon as one side is w:ll browned, which will be in three or four minutes, turn on the other, being careful not to pierce the meat with the fork, which would allow the juices to escape. When thoroughly browned, top, botcom and sides, pour a quarter of a cup of boiling water in the pan, and set in a slow oven to finish roasting. From twenty minutes to half an hour will be found guite sufficient, and the little roast will be feund as juicy as the heavisr cut. Plum jelly, made of damsons, or the red plums, will be found an appetizing addition to the Sunday roast. Put in the preserving kettle, with water to cover. Heat slowly and simmer until very soft. Turn into a jzlly bag, and drain until the pulp is dry. Measure the juice and allow a pound of sugar to each pint. Boil the juice twenty minutes, from the time it commences boti- ing, skimming often. Have the sugar on tins in the oven. Add to the hot juies, stir until’ it is all dissolved and bring again to a boil. Roll the jelly glasses in water, fill with the hot sirup and set in the sun. When cool and stitt ccver with paraffine or rounds of paper dipsed in brandy or white of egg; seal closely and put in a cool, dry place. Dameson jam is a sweet essentially Brit- ish. Allow three-quarters of a pourtd of svgar to each pound of fruit, stemmed and skinned by throwing boiling water over them and rubbing the skin off with the fingers. Add a cupful of plum juice, ob- tained as for jelly. This will keep’ the plums from scorching without the necessity of using water. Boil the plums and juice together in the preserving kettle for twenty minutes, stirring frequently. Strain through a large colander to remove the pits and add the sugar. Boil half an hour longer, still taking great care not to let it scorch. Pack in the little earthen pots or tumblers and seal. The picnicker or camper-out of sybaritic instincts will be glad to know that the pic- nic chefing dish, made to pack in small compass telescope fashion, is an accom- plished fact. The ordinary chafing dish has been too unwieldy to become popular; but that objection removed, the al fresco neal may become as elaborate as the cor- don bleu in charge desires to make {t. Rab- bit, fried brook trout, scrambled eggs, ome- let, boiled potatoes, frogs’ legs, mush- rooms, chops, coffee, or even dainty des- serts of various sorts, may now be added to the picnic bill of fare, thelr evolution by Jack, under the tutelage of Jill, adding to the joy of the occasion. Straw hats which have lost their pristine freshness may casily be restored to favor at home without the necessity of a trip to the bleacher. Dissolve 5 cents’ worth of oxalic acid In a pint of cold water. Lay the hat upon a flat surface and scrub briskly with an old tooth or nail brush. Rinse weil with cold water to remove every bit of the acid, which would otherwise eat the straw, and lay it out in the bright sunlight to dry, taking care to still keep it in a flat posi- tion. To make the English plum tart, beloved of our cousins across the water, either blue plums or ripe green gages may be used. Stem and remove the pits, and fill a pud- ding dish. Sprinkle well with sugar and cover with a rich crust, being careful to cut slits enough to allow for the escape of steam. Serve in the baking dish, or lift off the crust, lay upside down on a large plate, pour the plums on it and cover with whip- ped cream. An excellent salad dressing for potatoes or cabbage is made with sour cream as a foundation. Add to a small cup of thick, sour cream three tablespoontuls of cider or tarragon vinegar, a teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of sugar and a saltspoon’ of paprika or a pinch of cayenne. For a po- tato salad a teaspoonful of onion juice or a few chives chopped fine will be found an addition. In canning blackberries allow half a cup of water and a cup of sugar to each quart of berries. Allow the strup to come to a boil, skim and add as many berries as will cover the surface. Cook slowly ten min- vtes; skim out and add the others until all are cooked. Return to the kettle, boil up once, fill the heated, sterilized cans full to overflowing and seal immediately. “Punch a la Francaise,” as recently serv- ed by a French chef, was concocted as fol- To one bottle of red wine was added the juice of one orange and one lemon, two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, one ta- blespoonful of Maraschino and a pint of chipped ice. Do not overlook the fact that screens at doors and windows catch and harbor an immense amount of dust. They should be dusted often, and at least once s week be vigorously brushed on each side with a whisk broom. In baking cakes or gems in gem pans, if there is not enough batter to fill all the iit- tle pans, put water into the empty ones be- fore setting in the oven to bake. ————_-e— Patriotic Weddin From. the New York Herald. Should it happen that you have wedding presents to buy between now and the early fall remember that the patriotic wedding is the thing. No bride is thoroughly in the fashion unless a large proportion of the gifts that come to her have reference in their design and colors to the war and the United States, ‘There has been already at least one pa- triotic wedding of importance. At this the star gift was a pin that was said to have cost $500, It had three stones—a ruby, tur- quoise and a diamond—as close to a design of red, white and blue as can be produced in jewels. When made this ring was unique, but the design has since been wide- ly copied. Another present that came to this bride of the patriotic wedding was a dinner set of white china, each piece of which was adorned with hand-painted American flags. Yet another set of gifts were lamps of red, white and blue, with shades of the same colors decoratively made. Favorite wedding presents of this sort are flag picture frames, which may be found in great variety. These have flags painted on a background of white enamel, or the frames themselves are made of flags of silk draped on a foundation of wood and covered with glass. Wedding gift novelties Such as these are unending, and they are the rage of the hour to bend to a coming bride, —_+-e+_____ Fancy Summer Shoes. From the Boston Herald, Women with pretty feet to show below their short duck skirts wear tles of black, highly polished veal skin, having tops of sapphire blue dressed leather. This veal skin {s the hide of ths very young calf, so treated- that {t 1s as soft as dog skin and assumes a high pol- ish. With blue uppers on these smart es blue heels are used, the rather heavy extension soles are stitched with blue, blue silk ribbons run through the eyelets, uni throughout the ‘shoes are lined with blue satin, Their shape is essentially sensible, however, and in contrast to this footgear trany women who sail for foreign lands fit themselves out for the voyage with white canvas rubber-soled ties, white duck short skirts, white linen shirt waists and white Straw round hats trimmed, with a bias strip of wire-edged white taffeta. For defense against breezes dark rough serge caps and coats are carried, The capes especially have all their edges bound with white or dark-colored glace lace kid. . ———_+e+ Muscovite, poule de sole, faille comtesse, faille francaise, fleur de suede, damas roy- al and other novelties in French taffeta are among the new fabrics for autumn wear, Some of the prettiest thin white dresses are made up with frills of the goods and very lite other decorations. ss THE CARE OF JEWELRY. How to Keep Clean and Bright Valuable Little: Trinkets, From the St. Louis Republié, Gold jewelry may be Cleaned by washing it in a lather of warm soapsuds, to which a few drops of sal-volatile have been added. This imparts brilliance;’ and’ the articles shculd cher be dried with a soft cloth and rubbed with a chamois jleather. Silver jewelry should @ilso bé washed in a little warm, soapy water. It may then be polished with a very little ot the best whit- ing or hartshorn powder, and finished off with a soft leather. Maltese silver orna- ments of filigree werk’ do not require a powder fo be used; they should be brushed with a small brush and soapy water, dried carefully and rubbed with a soft leather. After gold jewelry has been cleaned, it should be placed in a bag of boxwood saw- dust, to be procured from a feweler'’s; shake and rub the ornaments thoroughly in the dust, and they will look beautifully bright and clean when taken out. Chains and necklets may be treeted tn this way. Pearls should never be dampened. They should be exposed to air as much as possi- ble. Turquoises must not be wetted, and are Mable to change color. Opals must be kept from fire and heat, as a high tem- perature renders them Mable to split and fall from thelr setting. Coral may be washed with soap and water. Jet must be repaired by means of jeweler’s cement. Ivcry may be washed and exposed to air and sunlight to keep It @ good white color. Steel jewelry must not be worn at the sea- side. It is extremely susceptible to damp, and easily rusts. To remove rust, buy a little crocus powder, and mix turpentine with it until tt forms a fine paste. Rub this well on the steel and allow it to dry on. Then remove the powder by means of a brush, and polish with a leather. If the rust has eaten deeply in, apply a mixture of tripoli with half its quantity of powdered sulphur. Mix, and apply with a soft rag; brush off, and polish with a dust of dry whitering. If almost hopelessly rusty, soak the ornament fn strong vinegar for a few hours. Then wipe it dry, rub it with sweet oll and emory powder, and polish with crocus powder on a leather. A watch should be wound up every day at the same hour. -Avoi@putting it on a marble slab, or near anything excessively cold, as the sudden change of temperature, contracting the metal, may sometimes ceuse the mainspring to break. The cold coagulates the ofl, and the pivots and wheels working less freely affect the regu- larity of the timekeeper. In laying aside a watch, be sure that it rests on its case. If suspended, the xction of the balance may cause oscillation, which will interfere with its going. To keep your watch clean, take care that the case fits closely, and see that your pockets are free from fluff, which is so often given off by cotton, cloth or calico linings. To remove a tight ring from the finger, grease or soap the finger, and then gradual- ly move the ring. If this fails, pass a strong thread or thin twine between the ring and the finger, by means of a needle, if by no other way, and pull the thread toward the hand. Then wind the other end of the thread tightly and evenly round the finger toward the tip. Next hold the other end of the thread by the hand, and unwind the thread upward; by this means the ring will be gradually passed along the finger over the tightly wound thread. —- FOR TRAVELING Best Style of Hats, Shoeg and Gloves to Wear. From Harper's Razar. = The best style of hat to wéar when trav- eling is rather a di it thing to state with any positive air authority. Large hats and fancy bonnets are, of course, not to be thought of, but @hére=is no absolute and distinct style of hat whfeh can be said to belong to a travelii dress. ‘The most ccmfortable hat is a small turban of as light-weight straw as, possible, that has no brim outstanding in'the back, or a small teque or bonnet whicl fits closely to the head, {s light and not too warm. It should be becoming #nd smart. A fancy straw trimmed with ribbon and two or three stiff quills stands hard wear better than an’ thing else, and can be brushed and made to look perfectly fresh. Sailor hats are too stiff to be comfortable. If a straw Is too elaborate the, dust gate inte intri- cate places where a brush cannot be put, and in these little crevices a most sur- prising amount of dirt will collect. Heavy shoes and boots must be avoided like the plague, and only such footgear as 1s comfortable must be chosen. A pair of ld shoes can be smartened up by the use of dressing and cleaning so they are per- fectly presentable. If new shoes must be worn it is better to put a pair of slippers in the bag, and change them on the train. elthough this latter plan is scarcely advis ble. As light shoes are worn—that 4 shoes that are light in weight—it is safe to have a pair of rubbers to put in the bag. ‘Tan shoes are now worn even with black wns, and on all occasens when ordinary ress is worn. ‘They are more comforta- ble than black shoo, but gomehow do not look as trim and reat. They are now worn with fancy brown stockings quite as mvch as with plain ones... Openwork lisle stockings look very well with low black shces, and are not necessarily very ex- pensive. They look dainty and neat, and that is a great point. The Biarritz glove that pulls on without any buttcns is a very comfortable one for traveling, of quite light kid, the tan shade being the best. Gloves of full size should be worn for traveling. It is a great mis- take to squeeze the hand into a glove that is a size too small, and of course light and white gloves are horribly bad form. The suede gloves as well as the glace kid are in fashion. In the traveling bag should be put plenty of clean handkerchiefs, some eau de co- logne, some salts’ and ‘a small stimulant, but it {s a mistake to load down a travel- ing bag with any amount of useless arti- cles. A night gown of course is necessary, comb and brush, tooth brush and nail brush. These, with the other articles al- ready mentioned, are all that will be need- ——+0+____ Ocean Bathing. From Harper's Bazar. If bathers would bear in mind @ few sim- ple precautions, the number of casualties at the seashore would be greatly lessened. These warnings have been repeated every summer for many years, but they are still cheerfully disregarded. One of them is a caution against going into the water when overheated, or within an hour or two after a meal. In either case the bather is par- ticularly Hable to cramp or sickness, ow- ing tothe ill effect, under those condi- tions, of the sudden shock of cold upon the system. Another needed warning is against swimming out too far—for it 1s porsle, of course, even where there are ife boats, to elude them occasionally. The danger in this respect is increased where there is a strong tide running constantly in'ene direction, as isthe ¢ase at beaches where there are piers which change the natural currents. Cifele: or ignorant swimmers often start outward from the shore, making, as they suppose, direct pro- gress in a line at a right angle from the beach. Not until they‘gre jell out do they notice how far the tide Has swept them off their course. Turhing ground and en- deavoring to return, they find the task al- mest impossible. Ft every stroke they make toward the shdre tHey lose two in distance as the tide sweeps them sidewise. By this time, too, they are“becoming tired, and are no longer able to swim as strongly as when they started: Tien, unless help soon arrives, there is #mall‘chance of their reaching land alive. “A krowledge of the strength of the surf,*the,” direction and force of the currents,/{the lnder-tow, and, lastly, of the extent?f dfie’s own Swim- ming powers, ought “to acquired by every one who indulgés in‘sea bathing. A Woman Grave Digger. From Tid-Bits. A woman as a gravedigger! The idea seems almost impossible, but in the town of Lewes, England, there is a lady who fills the office. of sexton. Every- body knows her, and until recently she dug all the graves in Lewes cemetery. Now, at the age of sixty, she contents herself with filling them up and attending to the mounds: and flowers, ‘ Mrs. Steel—the ye of the sextoness, if one can use such a term—is # very healthy old lady, and she has been heard to say that she will never leave her post until it is her turn to havea graye dug for her. May the time be far.distant. = It is a wonderful sight te witness the old lady use the spade. eet -evenly. FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN Hints for Stout Women in Styles and Oolors. Smooth Fits and Good Designs— Heliotrope and Purple Good, but Black and White Best. Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, July 28, 1898. Although this is emphatically a season for tall, slim women, yet their stout sisters may seize upon many features of the pres- ent petticoat with confidence that it will be becoming and suitable. A flounced skirt, for instance, would not be considered at all times and in all models an appropriate garment for one who was burdened with too much flesh. Yet properly cut and cur- tuiled a flounced or ruffied skirt gives a slender look to the stoutest woman. True the flounce or ruffles must be scant, and if ruffles, they must be few in number and scant of outline, but properly managed, starting very low qn the front of the skirt and not going very high in the back, they add grace and slimness. The skirt on which they are put must itself be very well hung and very well fitted over the hips. Herein lies one of the secrets of the woman who weighs too much in proportion to her height. tverything she wears must be weil cut, well fitted and well hung. Gone for her are the days of home maae and home hung gowns. Her substantial outlines re- quire the draping and skill of a master hand. A feature which makes the present skirt applicable to stout women is one which is particularly objecticnable in itseif, and that is its, length. All flounced and ruffied skirts’ are extremely long in front and touch in the back. Sensible women have so far refused to make thelr heayy gowns in this fashion, but all their organdies, muslins, laces and grenadines trail along in a graceful, but unhygienic fashion. When a woman at length acknowledges to herself in the words of Lady Jane, “there will be too much of me in the com- ing by and by,” her first remedy 1s to have a black gown made with a plain tightly fitted waist and a plain gore@ skirt. Grant- ed that'this is all that can be done on scme occasions on most women, it will be found a failure. It takes a shapely stout Woman to look well in a gown of this sort, and shapely is exactly w! most women are not whe are fleshy. Did they require avoirdupois* in equal proportions on all parts of their frames, the problem of dres ing would be an easy one. But unfortu- nately flesh has a tendency to settle about the hips, abdomen and bust, usually le: ing the chest and shoulders far in the rear and often imparting only sc much of plumpness to the arms as any woman of ordinary size might env; The problem, therefore, is to make the hips, abdomen and bust Jook smaller, and. with the tendency to flatness of shoulder nd chest which one so often observes in ich cases, one way of doing this is to fill out the chest and shoulders. Hence many models of gowns made for women who are “o'er plump” this summer have bows or other trimming about the shoulders and chest. A proof that the tight-fitting basque, so long cherished, is not always the best model is shown by the successful adaptation of the bloused front to the figures of stout women, Properly managed, the bloused front has been most effective. One model gown which made its wearer seem to lose several inches in circumference was a hair- striped black and white organdie over white silk. The stripes on the waist were slight- ly bias, running from left to right. The sown opened on the left side and bows of black ribbon, beginning at the shoulder, concealed the opening. Similar bows orna- mented the shoulders on the right side and gave the fullness to the chest which has already been mentioned us a most desirable feature. The distinguishing mark of the gown, however, was the tucks. This bias. slightly bloused front was tucked from the neck nearly to the waist line. The tucks were narrow and terminated before the be- ginning of the bloused effect. The skirt was plain and snugly fitted over the hips. Around the bottom was a little ruffle, put on quite full, The sleeves were tucked from shoulder to wrist and fitted snugly, finishing with a little ruffle at the wrist and relieved by a cap of the organdie trim- med with lace. Separate Waists No Help. It is fortunate for stout women that separate waists are no longer as popular as they were, for the separate waist with a black skirt was the rock on which many of them spllt. Arguing that it was their hips which were abnormally large the: cealed them, as they fondly believed, jain black skirt. Then they indulged their ‘ancy for bright, pretty colors—long starred on modest black—in a gay silk waist. 1 result was ¢..aos and confusion. One's ac- quaintances, who had never before seemed con- by a to belong to the heavy class, suddenly seemed to take on several inches round about. In reality they weighed no more. It was only the effect of a waist and skirt which did not match. If separate skirts and waists are to be deplored, shirt waists and skirts are to be condemned. By this it is not meant that any woman who weighs over 160 pounds shall never feel the grateful relief which comes to slimmer daughters of Eye from an unlined waist. But the separate fancy shirt waist she should eschew. There are black China silk or india silk shirt waists to be had this year which are even cooler than the starched muslin ones. Most of them are made with wide tucks finished with hemstitched tops, and all are full enough to almost blouse in front. A prop- erly constructed shirt waists, should not show the line of the figure, yet should fit snugly over shoulders and back, and be trim on the side seams. This sort of a shirt waist if the same color as the skirt can be worn traveling or shopping with perfect propriety and a great deal of per- sonal ease and comfort. But upon ordi- nary occasions the summer gowns had best be well fitted over a silk or lawn lining, which may be low-necked and, short- sleeved. Stout woman whose complexton ad:nits of it may wear heliotrcpe and royal purple. They are not “large” colors. Red is and yellow should vsually be avoided. Pink should be used with discretion, although whether one be stout or slender its effect on the complexion is the most important peint? to be considercd. White is not as much to be avoided as one would suppose, although white gloves and white shoes are said to make th> hands and feet look quite out of proportion. A well-fitted, well-made white gown makes many stout women look extremely trim and ship-shape. Black {s tlways cot-sidered a good color, and is universally. supposed to dwarf size, but it should not be depended upon entire- ly, nor should a woman wear it simpiy be- ceuse she is gaining in weight if it dis- agrees in a marked manner with her com- plexion. Dark blue, stone gray, sez] brown j and various othe- plain colors can be worn with much more effect than black in such cases, Princess and Jackets. Not the princess gown, but the effects, as modified by slightly bloused fronts and half-coat effects, can be suc- cessfully used, always taking care to use reveres or a jacket effect to make the chest and shoulders wide enough to be pro- portionate to the breadth below. ‘A vexing question Is the collar of a gown. Every one is supposed to wear a high col- lar, yet with increasing size the neck ap- parently grows shorter—or the chin longet. Whatever physical phenomenon 4s respon. sible for the matter, it is an indisputable fact that the height of the collar must be lowered. Tucked or softly folded ribbon or rows of insertion and lace with a turned- over edge, all used aceording to the charac- ter of the gown they are to adorn, will look higher than they are. But do not be deluded into wearing the hunting stocks and various scarfs which are the property of womerf with swanlike necks. Avoirdupois would be robbed of half its terrors if only flesh would distribute itself This, as has been remarked, it re- fuses to do. But as it brings many dis- comforts and ailments in its train, aside from its menace to beauty, it should be’ Kept down by proper diet and exercise. The diet which means sacrificing many of the fleshpots of Egypt can be learned from any reputable physician, while there are a score of gymnastics for indoor work as well as games for outdoor practice. i MABBHL BOYD. —_-+ - The establishment of a market where those who may bring contributions and those who are needy. may find relief is one of the anpent Fag oo certain wo- man’s organization for supplying the wants of.the families of soldiers now at the front, princess OYAL is the only Baking Pow- der that will always keep fresh and of full strength regardless of climate or season. Royal is the only Baking Powder whose work is uni- form everywhere. Every atom, to the last in the can, does its perfect work. Made from pure grape cream of tartar. ROYAL BAKING POWDER CO., NEW YORK. E AGAIN, In Spite of Feminine Protest» It is Coming Into Favor. ‘om the New York He: A. The Herald ed a storm of indignant protest among womankind when it an- nounced two months ago that the crinoline | was coming back. Since then this foe woman’s comfort has crept slowly onward, and today ev indication points ‘to its speedy adoption. In fact, it is predicted that it will :e de rigueur in the new fall | styles. ‘There is only one consolation to offer to the woman who must don this crinotine or be out of the fashion, and that is that all the old rey hack to ry ved styles have come us~s0 modified that we have found them | quite charmin, If we may accept the old axiom that straws show which way the wind blows, the crinoline is y coming in fashion. The new style of skirt demands well- fitting petticoat, and not a cheap petticoat, either. Most of the skirts are extended by the use of featherbone, and some of the skirts have featherbone all the way from the hem to the wa following in outline the flounces attached to the skirt. In word, the new style of petticoat is exactly hk= | the old style hoopskirt, except that it is covered with material instead of being a network of wires. The fashion of wearing long skirts which trail on the ground and act as scavenge! for our dusty streets may render the ad: > tion of the crinoline a necessity and a pro- tection against microbes, but to those who stop to think it will appear a strange co- incidence that the hoopskirt in vogue a the time of the civil war should have been laid aside until the present war. This is a point for scientists to discuss at leisure. The thing for the sensible woman to do is to wage earnest and effective war against Jong skirts and crinolines. +2+ How to Keep Prett From the London Mail. Sleep is a wonderful beautifier, Nothing so rounds out hollows as sound, healthful sleep; nothing so soothes and mends irri- tated and broken nerves; nothing so re- stcres the tissues of the tired body as picnty of natural sleep in a well-ventitated rcom, and nothing is fairer and softer and more peachlike than the delicate flush cn the cheeks of one who has just stepped cut of the realm of dreams, where all thin are rose-colored. A clever writer says worry {s a mortal eremy to beauty and charm of manner. This Is undeniably true. Worry over the inevitable is not only a wrinkle inducer and a frown instigator, but it is a si s and wicked rebellion against wh’ be helped. Worry clouds the eyes, makes the votce sharp and impatient, puts hard lines about the mouth, and destroys repose and gentleness of manner. Whatever fs, is best. Therefore, one would best control one’s feelings, and learn as sooa as possi- ble to know that bright eyes, sweet voices and smiles about the mouth will ada much to one’s beauty and to one’s circie of friends. A gentle, caressing touch is a rare pos- session. It goes hand in hand with beauty of character, and that means tenderness cf heart, purity of purpose, nonesiy of soul and kindliness of thought. ———— How to Hang a Hammock, From the New York Herald. The general idea that the head end of a hammock should be higher than the foot end is an error. The occupant should rest { in a state of equilibrium—that is, in such a position that there will be no tendency to shift toward head or foot. To effect tbis the hips must rest at the lowest point at whatever degree’of dip the hammock may be hung. cannot The pillow arbitrarily determines the po- sition of the occupant. Whatever length of hammock extends beyond ihe feet should be hung proportionately higher than the head. There will be little or no comfort in trying to resist this natural law. THE MOSS ROSE A IN. The Old-Fashioned Flower Once More a Popular Favorite. From the New York Herald. Fashion's favorite flower this summer 1s the moss rose—that beautiful, blushing flower without which no garden in the olden days was ever complete. Perhaps the secret of its retirement from public favor for s0 many years lies in the fact that it could only be made to bloom once a year. When the science of gardening be- came so perfected that florists were able to produce almost any flower called for at any season of the year the difficulty of propagating -this particular species of the rose family may have had a «great infiu- ence on the decline of its popularity. I was told by one of the swell florists that this difficulty has been overcome, and that the moss rose can be made to blossom just as freely and continuously as the the American beauty or any of other familiar sorts. The florist said they were the very latest fad for a man to send to his best gir But they must be buds, as the fully opened flower was not as pretty, the spread petals hiding all the moss. The old legend is well known to many of the angel who had fallen asieep under the friendly shade of a rose bush, and upon awakening refreshed from his slum- ber, desirous of rewarding the flower for its kindly shade, toid the plant it could have any wish gratified. Upon the ro! blushing a deeper pink and disavowing any claim upon the angel's generosit express his pleasure and ar modesty of the flower, light mantle of moss. The rose has a history which runs back more than 200 years, as it is known to have been oduced into England from Holland in 15 he, to roval of the threw over it a +o Black Hats, From the Philadelphia Inguirer. What a wonderful charm there is about a black hat. This artistic truth and the economy of it is getting home to the hearts of many women this summer. If you are only permitted two hats per season, alway let one of those be black, and if one ch peau is all your circumstances allow eve three or six months, then be wise and cose it black. A black hat is like char- it covers such a multitude of Mttle s of omission and commission in dress and it is always distinguished looking and becoming. The long-headed woman who shops with diplomacy orders her hat all black and dashes in whatever color she prefers in the comb of flowers underneath the rear brim. Now, if you drop in at any progressive millinery studio just now you will find for sale many of these combs of roses, violets, ete., all prepared to either pin on your hair before your hat goes on, or tack to the back of the hat with a few stitches. Here we have a great convenience, for it is not every amateur milliner who knows how to work up a4 floral comb or cache piegue with the proper neatness and skill, and it is on the little finishing touches that @ hat depends for its chic expression and air of tidy completeness. ———__+e Remedy for Slipping Rugs. From the London Mail. House-proud women who rejoice in smooth, hard floors often find the slipping of the rugs stretched upon them a serious annoyance, if not a positive danger, as fails may easily ensue from it. A rug salesman contributed the other day this suggestion as @ remedy: “Wet the rugs thoroughly,” he said, “and turn them right side down- ward until dry. It will not hurt them and will relieve this tendency to slip.” The ex- planation is that the wetting dissolves some slightly gummy substance used in their treatment. ————_—_+e-_____ It took seven years to make a handker- chief for which the Empress of Russia paid £1,000. THE LIGHT SIDE OF NATURE. From Sketch.