Evening Star Newspaper, April 16, 1898, Page 17

EFFECTIVE PROMENADE -COSTUM Cevrrgee, 1g, by 8M. Dalewtn, fe Desoms Pore VIENNESE FASHIONS What the Women of Austria’s Capi- tal Are Wearing. GOWNS ARE ELABORATELY DECORATED Design for a Handsome Costume of Violet Taffeta. BROADCLOTH IS POPULAR Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. VIENNA, April 4, 1898. Lace incrustations are worn to such an extent that even the woolen street gowns, and sometimes the taflor-made costumes, are decorated in this way, and a very ele- gant appeararce is given to otherwise sim- ple costumes by the addition of such in- crustations. Our smaller fllustration testifies to this mode. It is made of tan broadcloth, a ma- terial newly revived for spring wear, and is lined with rose taffeta. The skirt shows the tight upper part In apron form, and the full graduated, flounce-like lower part attached to the upper invisibly under a trimming of narrow gold braid. ‘Ihe same trimming encircles the hem of the flounce, which fs slightly stiffened by a narrow band of linen canvas on the inside and ad- additionally finished by a flounce of taf- feta, which presents a very dainty appear- ance when the skirt is litted. The blouse may be made as an outside garment to be worn over another bodice, or it may take the place of the bodice it- self. It is made, like the skirt, over a lin- ing of rose-colored taffeia, and fits snugly at the ‘k, while the front falls in the lvose pouch over a narrow vest olored crinkled mousseline de sc Four beautiful tncrustations of tan-colored Russian lace, with gold threads running through it, form a rever-like decoration on the front and back, the scrolls almost meeting over the slightly fulled shoulder. The same incrustations adorn the Medici collar and the cuffs. A large. full cravat of rose-colored crinkled mousseline de svie is at the throat. and the belt may be of gold braid, closing with a handsome buckle of filigree gold or of tan-colored leather studded with jewels, or simply of cloth with a decora- ton of gold braid like that on the skirt. If preferred, the gold braiding on the skirt may be substituted by several rows of pip- ings over fine round featherbone, in which case the interlined stiffening of canvas may be omitted. Proper Colors. For costumes and dresses intended to be worn in the daytime, the incrustations should be shown of much the same tint as the material on which they’are mounted, but for reception and evening dresses greater latitude In the choice of color is permissible. Rose sprays with the flower and leaves in natural tints make charming ornamentations for rich, plain silks of al- most any color. Three is sufficient to trim a skirt, two being placed on the front breadths at different heights from the ground and one on the left side breadth. For the decoration of black cashmere, cloth or silk incrustations are executed in black silk mixed with goid thread and jet er colored beads, or in lace designs outlined with embroidery in relief. ‘The craze for glittering ornamentations is as marked as ever, and the fashion |s kept alive by exquisite and new designs constantly sent in by manufacturers of choice garnitures. Jeweled ornaments sparkl> and glimmer on the vests and yokes of dressy day wear as well as elab- crate evening toilets. Certainly, all is net gold that glitters; but these incrusta- tions are so elegant and retined that even the fortunate possessor of real gems pre- fers wisely to keep them safe in oblivion end wear the equally effective and less costly imitations. The skirts of the newest evening and demi-toilets are extremely elaborate, many of them showing a great melange of ruches, flounces and small frills, jetted points of net, lace insertions and accor- dion-pleated mousseline in black, white or colors. Shirred ruffies of Chantilly or other laces, or taffeta, or both, set on in clusters of different widths ts a very old fashion re- vived, as is also satin ribon of wide or narrow gauge set on in rows of five, about four and one-half inches apart, usually in’ waved lines. Of Violet Taffeta. The model of our large illustration shows much elaborate garniture on the-skirt as well as on the bodice. Violet taffeta forms the foundation of the skirt, which is made in apron overskirt styl> and has a trim- ming of nine graduating flounces of violet mousseline de soie, each flounce being very nérrow in front and wide at the back. Each flounce is also edged with a small but very full ruche of th? mousseline edged with fine violet chenille. The skirt is unlined, but is worn over a handsome underskirt of taffeta or satin. The back of the bodice of violet taffeta is cut without a seam and fits snugly yet easily to th figure, and bears that stamp of chic and refinement which only the most artistic taste and perfect workmanship as- sure. The bodice ts very full in front, forming three pleats over the bust and being gath- ered at a waistline into a belt of black vel- j Yet covered with jet beads, The wide collar consists of a lighter shade of violet mousseline over violet taffeta, and is beautifully embrotder2d with jet and fin- ished with a serpentine flounce of mous- seline edged with the chenille. A similar flounce closes the bodice in front and 2dges the wrists of the crinkled sleeves of light violet mousseline de soie over a tight taffeta lining and dotted with jet. A very novel combination is shown in the vest and collar of white and green etriped satin, which is stitched lengthwis: with narrow tucks and finished with a tiny turn- over collar of green satin. RUSSIAN LACE MAKERS. Peasant Women Who Do the Work Raise All Their Own Materials. From the New York Times. The Russian peasant women make their lace in the winter. In the summer there is not so much time for It, for they hav2 their agricultural duties. The peasants never buy anything for their work. If they have their seeds they raise the flax and spin the thread and make th? lace, or they raise the sheep and spin the fine wool and make the beautiful Orenburg shawls. Sometimes a woman will make her lace from the very beginning, planting the s:eds and doing all the work, even to selling the lace she has made, but not always. Some of the women raise the flax and do the spinning and ex- change with the lac>makers, but they al- ways do it among themselves. It is all peasant work. They do everything for nd the men even make the ls and looms for weaving. n get Up very early, perhaps 4 the morning, and they work until 11 or ck at night. But they are & gay people, and in the evening a great many peasarts gather in on> house, and g their work and sing us they or sometimes they will stop for a little while and dance, and then go to work ‘They do not know any other life, and they are very happy. They do all their work for themselves, and have no bosses. Some of the designs of the lace are very old, and many of them they make up from tha things they see around them, designs from the frost on the window. Every thread in a piece of lace has to have a pair of bobbins. The children be- gin with narrow lace with about ten pairs of bobbins, and the women use more or jess, according to the width of tha lace. The lacemakers usually live in one place, and the women who do other kinds of work are together in other towns. There is one town not far from Moscow which is filled with laczmakers, and ae soon as you get near the towa you can hear the sound of the bobbins. The shawlmakers live in the Province of Orenburg, which gives the shawls their name. They are made of finest down of th> sheep, selected from the wool, and the fine yarn is spun and the shawls are knit with two ordinary knitting needles, It will take a woman four months to make one four square. They are so soft and fine that three of them can be drawn through a finger ring at onc>. It will take @ woman all winter to make a piece of lace ten or twelv2 yards long and half a yard | wide, and she does not get more than $4 or $ for it. They are very strong laces, and they will wear for hundreds of years. feed Little Pitcher—“I don’t think my papa loves me as much as he loves my mamma. Mamma says papa tells her fairy stories. He never tells any to me.”—Boston Tran- script. (Copyright, 1898, Life Publishing Company.) _ [HOUSEHOLD HINTS THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, APRIL 16, 1898-24 PAGES. The field for choice in wall paper this spring is 80 varied and so inviting that the would-be purctaser becomes almost bewildered in the multiplicity of riches spread before her by the obsequious sales- man. Before facirg his plethora of riches, it is wise to fix firmly in mind the use of the room to be decorated, its light, and the furnishings already on hand that will have to “live” with the paper, and then exercise a choice according to these con- ditions. Sunny rooms, it must be remem- bered, can bear a darker-colored wall, while dark rooms need the Hghter tint. William Morris, poet as well as artist, says emphatically: “There are not many tints fit to color a wall with, and this is my list of them as far as I know: A solid red, not very deep, but rather describable as a full pink and toned both with yellow and blue; a light, orangy pink, to be used rather sparingly; a pale golden tint—i. e., a yellowish-brown, a very difficult color to hit, and a pule copper color. All these three you must be careful over, for if you get them muddy or dirty you are lost.” Tints of green from pure and pale to deep- ish and gray; always remembering that the purer the paler and the deeper the grayer. Tints of pure, pale blue from a gicenish one, the color of a starling’s egg to a gray ultramarine color. In these you nvst carefully avoid the point at which the green overdomes the blue and turns rank, or that at which the red overcomes the blue and produces those woeful hues of pale lavender and starch blue which have not seldom been favorites of elegant drawing rooms and respectable dining rooms. These general directions for color are all helpful, and well worth bearing in mind. In all the new spring importations there is no trace of the gilt patterns so long in vogue—the groundwork of all the apers being lusterl2ss and dull in finish. For the bed rooms, chintz papers, in imita- tion of the English hangings, are most popular. While many of them are in home- ly, vivid colorings of blues and greens and reds, there are others with delicate pink blossoms and scattered buds on an ivory background, or blossoming vines clam- bering over the same faint tint. Blood red Pcppies on slender stems are everywhere in evidence, and yeliow roses and multi- flora run riot. Some of the patterns are like the old cretonnes, with quaint figures and gardens and brooks and bridges and Imitless skies of shadeless blue. For the bath room the highly glazed tile papers are sown both in blcck patterns and the mcre artistic reproduction of Flemish, Dutch and colonial tiles. While there are cheap varieties of this paper, they are not durable, and the heavier English paver, ecsting fifty cents a roll, will Le found cheaper in the end. These come in amber ard dull blue, old rose and cream, and cream and white, and the highly glazed surface may be wiped off with a damp cloth again and again, reappearing each time as good as new. Hall, library and dining room papers come in wonderful metallic effects or in imitation of cash- mere, tapestry and dragon-figured canvas. Imitation of woodwork for paneling and wainscoting may also be found in paper, while a facsimile of leather in color and texture for a library or hall would deceive the very elect. For drawing rooms there are wonderful velvety papers, mostly of crimson and rose, the groundwork being of one tint and the rioting blossoms of the other. Altogether, the season's dispiay is unprecedentedly artistic, and within the limits of moderate expenditure. In planning for the spring dressmaking at home the women of foresight will see to it that everything possible is in readi- ness before the advent of the dressmaker, so that she may go directly to the work in hand. Gowns that are to be altered should be ripped, brushed, shaken and cleansed. Do not attempt to clean the lin- ings unless they are of silk, as it does not pay when new linings can be bought as cheaply as they are sold today. Black goods and the lighter woolens are easily cleaned with soap bark. If desirable to wash thoroughly, take a 5-cent package which has been covered with a quart of cold water and simmered down to a pint. Strain and mix it with two quarts of warm, rot hot, water, which is the regular clean- ing solution. Lay the cloth on the ironing board, stripped of its cover, and with a clean, soft scrubbing brush’ scrub thor- oughly with the solution, rubbing always in one direction. Rinse piece by piece as soon as cleaned in a weaker solution of soap bark made by covering the dregs of the first solution with more water. The last water should be clear when the cloth is wrung out of it if the previous cleansing has been thorough. Press as dry as pos- sible, hang over a line until dry enough to press, and iron it dry on the wrong side. If there are specially bad spots they must be attended to before the garment is wash- ed. Grease spots may be removed with benzine or gasoline, steaming the spot first if the grease has hardened, until it is hot. Tar or paint are more difficult to deal with, but they may be removed with the follow- ing preparation {f the fabric 1s not of too delicate a color: Add four ounces of am- monia and the same amount of sa!-soda to half a pint benzine and water mixed in equal quantities. Lay the fabric over sev- eral folds cf clean cloth laid on a board and rub thoroughly with the mixtures un- Ul the spot disappears. Fresh paint spots may be easily taken out with turpentine, which should be removed in turn with naphtha to prevent its making the goods stiff, and the naphtha rinsed out with water. Delicate ribbons and silks may be cleansed by rubbing in flour heated very hot (not browned), then well shaken: old black thread or French laces that have become rusty may be renovated by dipping into weak green tea, and press'ng between papers on a flat surface. Pick out each lit- tle scallop or point with the fingers before covering the lace with the top pap2r. Very fine white laces may be spread out on white Paper, covered with calcined magnesia and another sheet of paper and laid away un- eer a heavy weight for a few days. All that is then required is the thorough shak- ing. All the goods and trimmings then being in readiness, the machine welll clean- ed and olled, all the requisite linings, needles, pins, tapes, hooks and eyes (black and white) purchased, and the scissors sharpened, the housekeeper may wait the coming of the high priestess of the needle; assured that half the battle is already accomplished. A recipe for lemon pie that never fails of approval calls for one teacupful of sugar, one tablespoonful (scant) of butter, two eggs, juice and grated rind of one lemon, one teacupful of bofling water, one table- spoonful of cornstarch dissolved in cold water. Stir the cornstarch into the hot water, add the butter and sugar, and cook until clear, taking care that it does not scorch. Remove to edge of the range, add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs and the lemon and put in shell of paste, already baked. Whip the whites stiff, adding two tablespoonsful of sugar and a few drops of lemon juice, spread over the pie and brown in a slow oven. Asparagus and eggs make a good break- fa8t or luncheon dish. To each egg allow a large tablespoonful of rich milk or cream and a little salt. Beat eggs until light; add the cream: heat a tablespoonful of butter in a spider until hot; pour in the mixture and cook until thickened. Have ready, boiled, the heads of a bunch of asparagus and stir in with the eggs just before re- moving from the fire. Serve on moistened toast. The upright plano no longer stands de- murely by the wail, but in the center of the room, where it serves as a back for the popular divan. The back of the piano is, of course, draped with a portiere or any artistic fabric, and the divan may be sim- ply a box covered to correspond and made comfortable with a multiplicity of piliows. A dash of salt added to the whites of eggs, makes them whip better. —__—+ee-_ _____ Evaporation of Bana: The American consul at Nicaragua re- ports that experiments are being made there to develop an industry of evaporating bananas, and that a trial shipment has been made to this country. If successfully established, this industry will be of the ut- most importance to many Central Ameri- can states. The men engaged in the ex- periment, according to consular reports, nave no practical knowledge of the business drying the fruit, but if it was taken up by men experi in the manufacture of machinery and appliances adapted to the evaporation of fruits, a modification to suit this case could easily be devised, and thére Chines Immediately, At presest’ fos 22; chines ely. there are millions of bananas year!: 17 FOR WOMEN WHO RID > Oycling Costumes That Are Both Sensible and Pretty. ee ADVANTAGES OF THE DIVIDED SKIRT Taste in the Matter of Material and Styie. BLUE IS ALWAYS POPULAR (Copyright, 1898, by the International Literary and News Servic NEW YORK, April 15, 1898. W trom FEW EXCEP- tions, wheelwomen have abjured bloom- ers. It is not a ques- tion of modesty, or rather modesty de- pends on custom; the American skirt is quite as shocking in the Bois as are the French “‘culottes’ ;, Wen worn in Cen- vw, tral Park. Indeed, a New York woman “wito has been. win- tering in Nice was‘ assured by all her French friends that she would improve her position vastly by putting on “proper” breeches for her daily.spins upon her “bi- cyclette,” Instead ofthe simple, dark-col- ored skirt costume she-was wearing. In this country®skfits have driven breeches off the roid, But the skirt camp is far enough from Bethy peaceful. Briefly set forth, these are thé ‘present season's causes of dissension: -‘ Is the circular skirt-or the divided skirt the better? r What does “short’*mean? To the first question only one ‘answer is possible, to wit, “that depends.” For parade purposes along the city asphalt the circular skirt, either plain or with @ gored front and saddle pleats in the back, possesses the advantages of hang- ing more gracefully and of being less awk- Wurd off tne whcel. Engiish women, who ride at least as well as Americans, use the circular skirt almost invariably, both for short excursions and for touring. Numerically skirts have the majority, but experienced riders hereabouts have abandoned them, except for parade pur- Poses, almost as decidedly as they have bloomers. Women who, without “scorch- ing” or doing “centuries,” are yet accus- tomed to all-day excursions over the coun- try roads, pumping up hill and flying down, pushing against a stiff wind if necessary, have settled down to the divided skirt as the most practicable costume now of- fered for “all-round” riding. It does not blow up as easily as the circular skirt, which requires a deal of weighting, and is altogether the more workmanlike. For the eee frame, it is of course indispensa- ble. Wide Range of Choice. The “smartest” ccstumes now being turned out for wear a-wheel are made of serges, woolen mixtures and, for hot weath- er, covert cloths and piques. Bicycle fash- ions this summer will admit a much wider rarge of color and a much greater elabor- ation of ornament tran has in the past been permissible. The neutral tints, cal- culated to hide dust, which have been the “stand-bys,” are still‘used; probably a con- siderable proportion of women riders will always prefer them. Decided colors, both dark and light, are the season's novelties, however, and have already thrown the browns and beiges into the background. Blue will be as porular on the “bike” as elsewhere. Very handsome navy blue cos- tumes are being made, but reyal and other bright blues are even more in demand. Scotch plaids are coming out in consider- able numbers, both for whole suits and for skirts, with coats in solid colors. The green and blue tartans do not have things their own way, either; the gayer plaids intro- ducing much scarlet are the favorites. Red costumes and red coats with blue skirts are setting the roads on fire. Coat and skirt costumes to be worn with vests or shirt waists are the rule, as heretofore, though they are not by any means universal. The prevailing fashions in coats are followed closely. A short- basqued, blouse coat with belt and turn- down revers is a favorite model. Another is @ coat long in the back and forming an Eton jacket in front, the belt passing out- side. The reefer coat, the tight-fitting cut- away, the double-breasted box coat and any number of short jackets tight-fitting im the back and ther tight in front or half loose from the @arts are equally popu- nd ¢ lar. Stylish Gpstumes. A trim, smart bieycletdress is of royal blue cheviot serge, tHec#kirt finished with bands of the cloth@étifched down. The reefer jacket has fdddrevers, forming a square collar back and front; this is faced with white cloth ami ornamented with stitching. The sled¥es'#re tight, but not skin-tight, like othet Gress sleeves, A double-breasted: plese costume of a brown mixture has and skirt decorat- ed with effective } pattern appliques of the cloth. ‘The t wn collar is faced with white and tahbed., A white leather belt is worn. . A cutaway coat nby blue serge is worn with a white pique Yest fastened with small gold buttons, The blue serge skirt is braided with black. The fashionable cess” model is adapted for the bicycle in a costume of blue, green and red chee! The front of the waist and upper part of the’ skirt is laid in small up and down tucks, trimmed with buttons. These, with the belt, con- trol the fullness. ‘The bodice is turned away at the throat in a V; it is finished with a sallor collar, and opens upon a starched vest and stand-up collar. The hem of the skirt, the collar, cuffs and small hip pockets are trimmed. with dark blue braid. Costumes as elaborate as this, or more so, are ordered for the “gymkhana” contests that will form one of the most fashionable of the season’s sports. The bicycle girls’ hats are innumerable. A high-crowned felt with a long, stiff quill is adhered to by many. The felt hat, trimmed with folds of striped silk to match the tle, is another favorite. Tam O'Shan- ter caps are most becoming wear to some faces, while small yachting caps are stuck to the year round by those whose chief de- sire is “not to catch wind.” Feit is softer than straw, but the coolness of the sailor hat and its ‘shady brim give it the palm for hot weather. Some of this year’s sallors have their crowns walled in to make a reservoir for rainwater. Except for desert tours, where supplies must be carried, these should be avoided. The popular sailor is trimmed with a striped or plaided scarf to match the tie. Another decoration is a bread scarf laid around the brim and fas- tened with gold or sliver pins in the shape of trumpets. A thoroughly up-to-date bicycle costume may have tartan hat band, necktie, ‘stock- ings and, in addition to these, the broad tartan scarf of Highland dress passing over ene shoulder and under the other arm. Fortunately, however, such completeness is not absolutely required. ELLEN OSBORN. ee FAITH IN THE COOK BOOK. She Would Not Think of Going Con- trary to Its Rules. From the Indianapolis News. There is a woman in this town who has unlimited faith in cook books and would not think of deviating from the recipes given in them. She recently became interested in the subject of veal-loaf, and decided to lay in the necessary supplies to make it. She read in a recipe that with three pounds and a half of meat you should use four pounds of crackers. This scemed to be a large proportion of crackers, but as the book said it, she could not do other than ask her husband to buy them. He bought five pounds altogether. He had never bought so many crackers in his life before. He thought it would be well to order two kinds. The grocer began filling a large sack, until the husband stopped | him and asked if he were mixing the two kinds. The grocer assured the husband that the large sack contained only one of the two kinds of crackers. The husband suppressed his astonishment, and took two large sacks of crackers home. Then the wife began to operate on faith. A man em- ployed about the house broke the crackers, while she busily worked them into the chopped meat. "The mixture got pretty suff and took considerable musole, but she kept on working, while the man kept pounding crackers. Finally, when three and 2 half pounds had been mixed with the meat in a huge roll, the woman, with some pangs of conscience, decided that she would add no more, though the book called for another half pound. The family all said that it was good eating, though some- how it was different from veal-loaf that they had met with at other places. There was plenty of it, certainly. The wife began to doubt that cook book as to the propor- tion of crackers, but before condemning the book, she thought it would be well to look at the recipe again. She had her hus- band read {t to her. Sure enough, he read “four pounds of crackers.” She told him to read it again, and read it slow, to see if there were not a mistake in some of the other proportions. This time he was very careful, and then the peculiar cracker clause took on a new aspect. It read “four pounded crackers.” os Avoid Shoddy Stuffs. From the Philadelphia Times. Above all things, shoddyism is to be avoid- ed. If you can efford but one gown, let that be of such sensible and well-wearing material as serge, cheviot, covert cioth or mohair. Nothing is so unseemly as shiny satin, soiled or raveled silk. Draggled silk petticoats are another abomination. Three pretty colored percaie skirts, like silk in color and design, can be had, all three, for one-fifil: the price of the ordinary made silk skirt, and they always have that blessed advantage of cleanliness. ‘To have one’s clothes always crisp and fresh and clean is the very next best thing to having an unlimited supply of everything the most fashionable. Bright colored skirts, immac- ulate and starched—is that not better than a draggled piece of old finery, for silk wiil gather che dirt, wiil cut and split and will not wash? Now that the “frou frou” is out of style, percale skirts are more to be rec- ommended than ever. They cost, ready- made, $2 apiece, but if one is handy at the sewing machine, two skirts very much fuller than the ready-made ones can be made for less than that price. Six yards at 12% cents a yard are required for each skirt, and two can easily be made at home in a day. ———— Economy in Housekeeping. From the Philadelphia Ledger. In good housekeeping, as in nature, noth- ing need be wasted. One might suppose that an old chair had a legitimate ending when the seat was quite gone and the four legs falling apart. Yet see—the four legs will support a square board, and when the whole is stained and varnished there is a most useful little table for the porch; or, painted white, it may become a stand to keep close by the sewing chair and hold the work basket. A second table may be evolved by using the longest spokes of the chair back as legs, only in this -ase the shape of the table’s top had best be trian- gular, and for it three legs will be suffi- cient. This will make a very small tabie, and need not be stained or paintel it ‘a bright cover is thrown over it; but its most convenient use will be to hold a light tea kettle at 4 o'clock. All thes2 handi- craft trifles should be handed over to our amateur carpenters—boys and giris—for it is the right of every family of chitdren to Possess a tool chest and a work bench set in the garret. A tool chest is an excel- lent investment in a household. ——__+e+—____ Mistaken Identity. (Copyright, 1898, Life Publishing Company.) ‘Mr. Noah—““Yes, dear. Til come and feed Cleveland’s Baking Powder does the work just right every time. That's why all the leading Teachers of Cookery use and recommend it. WWM tg AA Ip e! PROV, WV, UP-TO- A General Utility Gown for Spring and Summer. DATE WOMEN Sensible Colors and Materiale—The Wisdom of Hi ng It Well Made and Coats. / Skirts Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, April 14, 1898. There is no time in the year when one is £0 possessed of a longing for a dainty, rew frock as in the early spring. All na- ture seems fresh and fair, and no woman is so dead to neture’s charms as not to long to emulate her example—witness the Easter bonnet. The majority of us are limited in the amounts we can sperd at any one season on the frivolities or necessities of the toi- let, and we leave out for the present the happy few who have cnly to order what- ever and however they wish in the way of gowns, and consider seriously the subject cf a utility gown which will be bright and fresh during the spring months and yet suitable for traveling and street wear dur- ing the summer. This is quite aside from the lighter summer gowns, which can be managed by any one who has a dollar or 80 to spend in materials. The spring gown must be heavy enough for the raw winds which are felt on the coast all summer at intervals, as well as the changes of the spring months before the weather is set- ued. The best material is a light-weight chev- jot, hcmespun or canvas cloth, although this by no means exhausts the light-weignt matesials which will stand a shower, a dust storm and various other vicissitudes and still rise fresh and unshrunken. Tans and grays are rather light, but are so pop- ular, the latter especially, that it is wise to choose one df these shades, providing they are becoming. Black is going to be very much worn for spring and summer in light-weight cloth gowns, but it spots easily and looks warm on a hot, dusty day; besides, it is hard to give it that spring-like fresh- ness which the feminine soul seems to crave during May and June. Dark blue serge never goes out of fashion, and many women would think it quite as impossible to go through the summer without a gown of this serviceable color and material as to {crego a straw hat. Broadcloth, ladies’ cloth or smooth-faced cloth of any kind should never be chosen for a spring and summer gown; it spots, catches the dust, is warm to wear, and looks it. All im the Making. A woman who was noted for her exquis- ite gowns when she was a society woman, and who has been upon the stage for sev- eral years, was induced by a well-known periodical to write a little article upon the art of dressing. Her creed could be for- mulated in a few words, and one often bears it from people of less authority. It is to put one’s money into the making of a gown. The material dces not matter so much. It need only be becoming in shade and need not be expensive. Of course, ev- ery woman of good taste will avoid a shod- dy-looking or a cheap material, but she can get excellent values nowadays for less than a dollar a yard. Such good stuffs are row made in Canada and parts of our own country that it is no ionger absolutely nec- essary to pay the price of “imported” wool- ens when having a light-weight woolen gown made. All that is necessary is to go to a reliable house, take their advice about the materials they sell as to quality, and be guided by your own taste in the matter of becomingness of design and shades. Another matter of importance is the lin- ing. It really is far better to have a silk lining for a gown, especially if one is to have that for almost every occasion. Here We come to a real item of expense, for a good lining silk cannot be bought for less than seventy-five cents a yard, and even then it is not always safe to trust it. It is better this year to buy the silks with lit- ue stiffening in them. They rustle less, ccnsequently are in better taste and wear longer. Of course, a silk lining is not an absolute necessity. It is honestly a luxury, and if one cannot afford to be extravagant on that score it is well to turn contentedly to the many handsome linings which have teen described before in this column. If silk is used, it will be found that it wears much better with the new drop skirt effect } than it did when the lining was fastened to the outside skirt at every seam. The Fashionable Skirt. There are so many new ways of making @ coat and skirt and yet so little real de- parture from the styles of last year that last year’s suit can be taken by any in- genious or capable modiste or tailor and made into an entirely up-to-date and satis- factory gown. The skirt should have a new lining, or the old one should be taken out and put back separate from the cloth. The fit across the hips must be closer. The sleeves must be made smaller, and if there was no braid on it, it is well to have @ generous amount applied in any of the patterns or manners now in vogue. The fashionable skirt of this week has five or seven gores and is three yards and a half about the bottom. It is sheathlike about the hips, and is, alas! very long. But if you have the courage of your convictions and do not own a brougham, insist upon having it escape the ground and utterly refuse to help the work of policing the city and carrying about the dust of ages. ‘Tne skirt with the attached flounce is so popu- lar that one would almost be led to tunk that every new gown must be made with it. But be not deluded. Tailer-made gowns do have apron fronts, to be sure, but the ma- jority of the very smartest of them have a skirt all in one piece. Braid or wide tucks of the goods are put on so as to simulate flounces whenever this effect is wanted. ; Coats and Blazers. No matter what shape one longs for in a jacket, it can be found among the new models. Generally the jackets are short, not more than twenty inches long. But even this is not always so, for in tne wake of the princess gown the three-quarter- length coat has arrived, and although none are on exhibition among the spring gowns <= | and are especially suited to youthful, girl- ish figures, They are quite short and often? are fastened with two large handsome but- tons. One shown the other day was of! gray, fastened with two large steel buttons, There wae a wide, slightly fulled collar of; white cloth, trimmed with silver embroid-' ery, which gave character to the whole garment. The Russian blouse has become a full-front.only. Very many of the new coats blouse in front, and are belted at the! waist line, but the coat fits snugly, in the: back and on the sides, giving a much more Spruce look than was possible last winter. A small basque effect in the back is often: used even with a full front which is cons fined in a belt. MABEL BOYD. es Diamonds im America. From Gedey's. In no country are there more diamonds to be found than in the United States, ac- cording to the population. It is estimated by a leading New York diamond dealer that there are upward of $500,000,000 worth of di:monds in this country. Moreover, this vast amount is increasing ev>ry year. Until quite recently diamonds were rarely, cut in this country; but American inventors bave developed a process for diamond cut- aed which is vastly superior to that done The loss in weight through cutting is som>times fully one-half, but the value is increased probably more than twofold. The Dutch city of Amsterdam has been the great diamond-cutting center of the world from time immemorial, and up to w few years ago over 12,000 people in that plac? were directly or indirectly dependent upon this trade. But it was not reasonable to suppose that Amsterdam should continue to hold a mo- nopoly of diamond cutting. As one of the greatest importing cities of the world, New York gradually offered inducements to dia- mond cutters, and an industry has bean gradually built up there that is now very, flourishing and profitable. In 180 Henry D. Morse of Boston, Mass., invented a ma- chine for cutting and polishing diamonds, and since then improvements have been! made upon it that ar2 very important. The foreigners continue to polish their stones by mga but in this country mechinery is’ ly used. A famous gem expert places the total value of all the diamonds in the world at over $1,000,000,000, of which $350,000,000 worth are in th> hands of dealers, carried as stock. All the other diamonde are in the hands of private individuals, and the ques- tion neturally erises, Who owns them? This is not so easily answered, except in the case of large and world-famous gems. New House Things. From the Pittsburg Dispateb, Japanese screens were never eo popular. The black ones embroidered in gold are most appropriate for the dining room or Ubrary, while for the parlor very hand- some ones of white satin embroidered in cclored silk are shown, the frame of a simple black and gold brocade. Simpler ones with frames made of a thin band of plain wood hinged ready for use come at very reasonable prices. These can be enameled or stained at home, and then mounted with panels of Koman satin, bur- lap, denim or embroidered linen. Milady’s dressing table, with its innum- erable solid silver furnishings and trinkets, is the chief ornament in her room these days. The old-fashioned mahogany tables of our great-grandmother’s day, with the addition of severely plain brass handles and key plates, are the most desirable. Failing this, muslin and dimity toilet tables are always dainty and sweet and can be made, by a girl herself. Besides, they can be freshened by laundering. ‘The small ornamental windows with broad | sin between two rooms lend themselves well to decorative effects. A sash curtain is indispensable. Striped madras in flower effects or delicate yellow India silk are pretty effects for these. A silk scarf draped gracefully over a gilt rod is uncommen and effective. A jardiniere with small plant put on the sill is good. A figure in plaster, brass candlestick or a Moorish lamp are other suggestions that look well. Another artistic addition to these small places is to hang over the top of them a small plaque, together with a half dozen pea- cock feathers loosely and carelessly grouped. ——— oo Easily Identified. From the Anaconda Standard. “There,” she said, as she finally got the check properly indorsed and handed it ta the paying teller. “I'd like to have the money, please.” The young man scanned it carefully and then looked at her. “Is there anything wrong with it?” she inquired apprehensively. “No; I am sure it's all right. Only we have our rules here, and before we can let you have the money you will have to be identified.” “But the friends I am visiting took a ti cut into the country with my mother t! morning.” “Then you will have to wait until to- mo: “But I need the money to do some shop= ping with this afternoon.” "m very sorry.” “Is it absolutely necessary to be iden- tified?” she asked plaintively. “Absolutely.” “Well, I suppose I can manage it. aoe 3 be open for an hour?” “Yes.” “Then I'l hurry home and put on my evening gown. It’s a great deal of trou- ble, but it’s the only way, and I'm glad I thought of it.” “I don’t quite understand.” “Why, I have a strawberry mark on my right shoulder, and everybody who has read anything at all knows that there isn't any better identification than a straw= berry mark.” ——++—____ Violets Chemically Perfamed. From the London News, As violets are much in evidence along the London thoroughfares, writes a corre- spondent, the foliowing incident may be of wil 4