Evening Star Newspaper, March 5, 1898, Page 15

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, MARCH 5, POEL PAGES. 15 Zz EVENING COSTUMES| What European Women Are Wearing at Formal Functions. eS ene THE EVOLUTION OF THE SLEEVE ge ee A Handsome Model That Shows a Number of Novel Features. FINE GLOV AND HOSIERY eae Cee jal € ‘espondeuce of The Evening Star. NKFORT-O TH i. February 2 1898. of the sleeve it- 1 costumes a Censpicuo! frocks for young ladies cant shoulder puf frills it to th a flatter which tting el- and ne consist of the favore four n is of las epaulette garnitures of stuffs or bows of ribbon matron, whose pride in the r shoulders and arms fs ju: to being Jiseard all semblance of that shoulder permit a bet- is prone satisfi of ribbons or flowers y of her charm s gown of heavy ivory satin r of s e ance. It has and poned along the b 3 Is lace, which is lands of red roses. The bod- ened with narrew satin straps rv the shoulc and has a fall of the d back. Reaching from the back over the le! , round boa of red rose: » bust and is attached to ont with a clas monds, from w it falls loo: low the knees. The white glac t to the dimpled elbows, diamonds encircles a crescent of brillian coiffure “a la I A Practical Fashion. hion of wearing gossamer fabrics ig dress proves very practical, as n can be made equal to e addition of draperies and the the soft transparent mate- fals so much in vogue. Among the materials the travers striped silks a mers are very fashionable, and an without the wat t fleur de valours,” and looks soft and rich like velvet. For very youthful evening gowns dam- bengalines and peau de soie and sa e are most successfully used the train is indispensable to the THE HATS. MATTER OF Where the Coming Styles in Millinery Are to Be. Millinery Te view $ Will take the place The dress hats ally rather low, broad, square ewns, with the brim of equal width back nd front jer and lifted at the left There a ats with very low crowns and med ¢ brims curling up ound. mostly simple— 2 of d flat as the while the with t e brim lengthened out ack for convenience in 1 the disposition of in on hats with high at the shapes of t atumn then in which the flare ted, and other evi- f a capricious tendency. s hats the! re tall and % crow d dented cr ac- A tall . With thy rim of the English hat, drooping and back and curling on the edge, urling quite high ¢ sides. Some have th uch wider than at right sid A new shape for the Sa flat brim 4 at Tam O° OWN, one liffers in road diamond s wise in outlines. th the points ertain of the early winter, subject to djustment and garniture novelty, is noticeable now net sent over from Pari with wing-like appen- at the sides, appears ons of French models; and but rts, flower effects and various fanci- part in the untrimmed the recent importa- . however, what may be classified as shapeles: » both in bonnets matron’s ball costumes, dancing frock i and showing a the young lady’: round, though quite long, ight tendency to dip at the back. The skirt is tight in front, but very j Wide and full in the back breadths. A flounce graduating in width toward the back is a preferred mode of widening the lower part of the fashionable ball gown, as well as the street costume. Our illustration represents the season's nouveantes. Rose-Colored Satin. -colored satin duchesse forms the long and plain skirt, the back iths of which extend into the favored A narrow band of black fur finishes the hem with striking contrast. The bol- of the sare material as the skirt is a ith application of real lace edg- h spangles end gold threz The t is blouse shaped and clo:es on the belt of gold braid, richly orated buckles set li, encircles the waist. ete in front is finished »slored satin ribbon, which forms bow loops un one side and ends ander a bunch of violets at the left shoul- der. A novel feature of this toilet is the grace- ful fichu arrangement of rose-colored gavze, two full pleatings of which fall as ilettes over the short sleeve puffs, and t the ba form a deep point at ickle of the belt. Below the hu extends into a sash, which hes to the hem of the skirt. « S are not worn as long as hereto fe and the dealers are introducing a number of Ities in the way ef dec hs of this important toilet acce Many gloves are embroidered or spangled or appliqued to match the gown, and some are seamed with narrow insertiéns of and a frill or ruche of lace at the top. T & mit has also been successfully intro- duced, and in many respe felt want. It permits the wearer to par take of the tempting dainties of the buifet Without the trouble of pulling off her glove, and it displays rosy finger tips and mani: cured nail. nd glittering rings to greatest advantage. Deserving of Attention The coiffure is receiving more attention than it bas for years, and we are glad to notice that women are no longer inad- vertently following a certain fashion, but are studying thelr faces for the purpose of dressing their hair most becomingly. The return of decorations for the hair is ¥ welcomed. A very young head looks ty flower itself under a wreath at blossoms, while the coiffure of h Ups or aigrettes lends a charming dignity to th matron. Few feces could stand the severity of the pom- padour coiffure, so the coquettish little curls are again allowed to fall over the forehead, and act as a charitable veil to ecver the defects of nature and ravages ot time. While the ball tcilet demands footgear and hosiery te match the costume in col ts it fills a lonz- fashion has in store for us eccentricities in that line to be worn with the demi- toilet. Thu. ed or green kid slippers with silk stockings of the same color are the proper thing to wear with black toilets: but fit attracts attention, and let it be the slender foot and dainty ‘ankle only, which will allow itself such deviations from the ordinary. LL apo e Brass Cian N & STRauss, Frankfurt A. M.) and the smaller ofthe hats, wll probably be the most popular. With the plateaus and berets of the fiber braid, the spangled net, the shirred chiffon, and other of the ethereal materials of the coming scason at command, the bonnet and the hat will be what the taste and the artistic skill of the milliner may make it. And very certain it is that the chance for artistic accom- | plishment fs much greater in a hat or a bonnet so produced than in one in which the modiste must conform her work to the arbitrary lines which exist in shapes that have been blocked—these latter, it is true, being among the inevitable woman's d and of millinery supplie: Drapery effects’ will be among the mos approved features of the coming millinery the plateaus and the berets, the fiber tis: sues and the beautiful lame cloth taking on the character of drapery under the deft handling of an artist-milliner, and the ngled net, the chiffon, the soft ribbons silks, the tulle and the laces which will be used lending themselves readily to the he torsades, the loops, ete., In which als for the purpose find arrangement and bonnets. A distinctive feat- ure of which the coming millinery gives promise has form in a succession of rolls, or upright folds, of which there are some- times three, and upon some models as many as five inning as a border to the brim and winding around and around, till rising to the edge ef the crown. very pleasing The effect is nd must be made by using urple flowers, as Indicated Paris models, will uding lilacs, hyacinths, heli- otropes and verbenas; while violets will probably hold their own, and conventional- | izing, in the use of dyes, will come in with violet and lavender poppies and tulips haps roses—and the purplish-blue faithfully copied from the nat- ill be in peculiar favor. with their pendent blos- soms of vivid scarlet velvet calices and dark violet silk petals and golden stamens, branched with foliage, garnish some of the handsomest of the imported hats. Exten- se will be made of nasturtiums, walt sand all blossoms which tone from the rich, dark orange-red to brillant yel- low. Pansies have returned to particular notice, in use in all their vari-colored vei- richness, in garlands on the brims of and in clusters at the left side; pop- pies, fashioned of the most delicate silk issue, after the natural blossoms, retain long-held importance; forget-me-nots, with conventional tintings of pink, will be among the flowers in request, : HOUSEHOLD HINTS The delicate little whitebait which have long been held in high esteem by London epicures, even to the furnishing of an an- nval ministerial whitebait dinner at Green- wich just before the prorogation of parlia- ment, are very popular here as weil. They are served in croustade shells as a special ccurse at formal luncheons or breakfasts. The little fish should be washed with great care and dried by rolling in a napkin; shake them in a tin with flour until en- tirely covered, then toss on a sieve to shake off the loose flour. Place in a fine wire frying basket, and immerse in smoking hot fat for one minute, or just long enough te give them a light amber color. They are so small that they cook very quickly, and care must be taken not to leave them in the fat too long. They must, however, be crisp and dry. Do not flour them until just ready to go in the fat. As soon as cooked sprinkle with salt and lay on paper to ausorb any suspicion of grease. Keep in the oven until all are cooked. Serve either in tue sheils, which may be procured at uny first-class delicatessen store, and heated in the oven, or on a napkin on a hot dish. They cool rapidly and are not at their best unless served fresh and piping hot. Advane2d ceoks who study into the phil- osophy and physiology of cooking, witn its accompanying effects upon the digestive orguns, object to the close covering of any keitle ‘or stewpan while its contents are cooking. All will recall the frequent d2ad- liness of the cmicken pie, When the crust has been made without a yent to allow for the escape of the sieam and gas>s gener- ated. The same effect, in lesser degree, may be noticed in the cooking of many, if not ail, veg2tables, in the boiling of beef, or in any other closed cooking. The free cir- culation of air is an admirable thing in cooking. as, witness, the broiling of steak, or the old-time roasiing of beef on a spit— the most delicious and wholesome way of ccoking. While in boiling it is not >xpe- dient to ieave the cover enurely off, on ac- count of its reducing the temperature too Much, it should be left far enough off to r the free 2scape of the steam. Gisbage, cauliflower ana spinach cooked {t this way retain their natural color, and are much more digestible. A good idea, this, taught in the waitress class at the Pratt Institute: A conveni2nt bag for the butler’s pantry, to hold the soil- ed table linen, may be made of linen, den- im, or any serviceable, washable material. It is mad of two straight pieces of ma- terial cut in the shape of a large bag sew- ed together at the sides. The opening runs about half way down the middle of one piece. The top has two rows of stitching, leaving a little ruffled head. Between the stitching is run a curtain stick, with a ring screw in either end, which fastens the bag to the door or the wall. A deep pocket is stitched across the entire width of the front side of the bag wh-re the opening is, and is vided in the center. The large bag con- ins the tablecloth, while the smaller ones for the napkins and embroider2d pieces ar which are to receive special attention in the wash. When buying prunes, the California prunes will be found more satisfactory and far cleaner than the foreign fruit. Do not soak them over night, as that allows the prunes to break, while the syrup is not so clear. They should, however, be carefully washed, one by one, in tepid water, allow ing them to stand in the water two or thre minutes to “plump.” Follow this by a sec- ond washing; then put in the saucepan, allowing a cup and a half of water to every cup of prunes. Simmer slowly on the back of the range or in the oven for two hours half, never allowing them to boil. If ugar may be added, but the long, ing brings out the natural sweet of the fruit and is approved now by cooks. Prunes treated in this way emerge lustrous, tender, sweet and with the real prune flavor, totally at vari- ance with the justly derided prune of the average boarding hou: daily gymnastics, but whese ume i n hours fs too short to allow of extensive change of dress, is this, advo- ed by a prominent. physical ‘culture cher of Manhattan: The waist should be % blouse or shirt waist, made in the pre- % style, but loose enough to allow freedom for exercise. Underneath the are skirt, which can be readily slipped off, the divided skirt for gymn nd still un- derneath the warm but lannel un- derwear, Thus dressed, all the girl has to do to be ready for off the dr skirt her boots for the gymnasium shoes. Exercise finished, the dress skirt may be resumed and a bolero jacket slipped on over the waist to avoid the danger of taking cold. The ordi- nary stocking supporter is considered ob- jectionable, as it impedes the circulation and produces round shoulders. While the method of washing clothes with , which is a powerful grease sol- ‘s much time and strength, it re- icular car>, and can be there eidom delegated to the ordinary all-work, who is apt to possess more jor than discretion, Shave into the boiler one-half pound of good laundry soap and add two tadlespoonfuls of kerosene. Bring to a boil and put the clothes in dry. Boil hard and skim off the soapy, waxy scum that rises. Remove the clothes from the boiler and rinse three times in hot wa- ter, until t odor of tne kerosene is im- perceptible, 2n blue and proceed as in any wash. : While black bean soup {s peculiarly a Philadelphia dish, it might be adopted with advantage in any household. An ex- ezilent rule calls for one-half pint of the beans, washed thoroughly, then soaked overnight in two quarts of stock. The next mcerning simmer in the same stock until very tender. Rub through a soup sieve and add salt and pepper to taste. Serv very hot in a hot tureen and on hot plates, with slices of lemon floating on the top. Well-browned croutons shouli accompany this soup. A new sandwich this winter is one filled with a paste made of th> powdered yolks of hard-boiled eggs, combined with finely- chopped sardines and flavored with a l.ttle of the sardine oil, lemon juice, a speck of cayenne and salt. A small dish of powdered charcoal k2pt on one of the upper shelves of the refrig- erator is an excellent thing to absorb odors, It should be changed every few days. If the carp2t looks dusty and dull, after sweeping, wipe over with a damp cloth, wrung out of ammonia water. A table- spoonful of ammonia will suffice for a half rail of water. Slices .of choice oranges covered with fragrant hot tea are equally in favor with lemon, nd Fancy Wedding Dresses. Frora the New York Cominercial Advertiser. Strplicity, which was one of the chief charms of the marriage ceremony of for- mer years, is giving place to extravagant and at times absurd displays nowadays. The one aim now seems to be theatrical effect, and at the present rate it will not be long before calcium lights will be em- ployed to “‘show off” the wedding parties. “They may look as if they were intended for a fancy dress ball, but they are for Miss A—'s wedding,” said a 5th avenue milliner, as she lifted a cloud of white tis- sue paper, disclosing to view a half dozen white satin cocked hats. “An attempt is being made to introduce a fancy dress ele- ment into bridesmaids’ costumes, and even if the result is fantastic, it may be for- given if it displays some originality. These are Polichinelle hats—or Punchinello, I sup- pose you say in English—pink and’ white, as you see, and they set off a young and pretty face to perfection, especially if the hair be puffed around it softly. Short veils of lace, net or tulle, falling from a coronet of flowers or an aigrette of ostrich tips are also worn and are taking the place of hats to some extent. The veils are thrown back, of course. In Heu of bou- quets look pretty, but are awkward to carry parasols made of flowers, floral muffs or even garlands of artificial flowers. Bou- quets look pretty, but are awkwar to carry and wither quickly. In Paris’—and madam looked dreamily out at bustling, noisy 5th avenue—“baskets of flowers are considered more graceful than bouquets, and the tall empire staffs, with flowers and ribbons on the handles, have been revived with some success this season. At this wedding’— pointing to the cocked bats—‘the maids a to carry fans painted by the bride her- self.” ee Fine feathers don’t make fine birds; be- ing mostly used to make fine ladies.—Puck. WET WEATHER WEAR Advantages of Being Properly Clad on Rainy Days. NOVELTIES IN BICYCLE COSTUMES Timely Hints From the Shops of New York Dressmakers. BODICES AND SKIRT = Special Correspcndence of The Evening Star. (Copyright, 1898, by Bacheller Syndicate.) SW YORK, March 4, 1898. HE LITTLE dressmaker was busy with a “rainy-day” costume this morn- i; if tell me,” I asked her, “that women who have any decent re- gard for appearances will be seen in the streets in that sort of thing?” The dress she was finishing was com- a handsome dark blue storm serge, It was the length of the skirt, or the lack of length, that provoked my ques- tion. The little dressmaker’s eyes twinkled. “You are too funny! This dress is an or- der from my richest and most fastidious customer. “Look! she chattered, pushing the big scissors out of Boy's way. “The next time it pours and the streets are greasy with mud and slime, Jook and see what women are wearing!” The small person with snapping eyes and loose rings of dark hair about her temples sat down at the sewing machine. There was silence while she stitched bones into a bodice. When the thread broke she resumed: “Does a woman show much regard for appearances when she’s holding up a stain- ed and splashed skirt and an umbrella and six and a quarter bundles and exhibiting scaked ankles and a drabbled petticoat? “All that is out of date and high time— I believe Boy has been fooling with this machine. “Women are wearing rainy-day dresses even at church; you remember last Sun- day's snow flurry?’ The little dressmaker returned bone-stitching. At a second flying of the thread she remarked: “Muddy w'ip!” with emphasis. The culprit retired to a corner and pushed chairs against the door. For Rainy Days. “The proper rainy-day dress,” she pur- sued, abandoning the machine, “is longer than a bicycle dress, but it must be short enough to show that It is not afraid to be a short gown. The trouble with most of the rigs that women have resorted to in bad weather has been that the skirts were close enough to the length of the conven- tional walking skirt to suggest that the slight abbreviation was due either to mis- take or stinginess of the cutter. That sort of dress is a delusion ard a snare. You think you don’t need to hold it up and you get worse fouled than if you wore a train. “The new rainy day skirt shows you that it fs just what it ts by conviction. You r spect purpose, you know, more than acci dent. Since it's always out of danger, it can’t be smart enough to compel respect for other reasons.” “Longer than a bicycle skirt 1s not defin- ite," I suggested meek!y, wondering how long Boy could stand in’ a rocking chair without breaking his nose. “We make tkem’—the little dressmaker {s quite justified in ‘alluding to herself as “we,” for she is nothirg if not royal in her decrees. “We make them to cover nicely the tops of ordinary walking boots. “The best material is the best all-waol serge to be bought for love or money. A real serge will stand any sort of storm. “You can have a smart tailor cut and, for trimmings, cither rows or stitching or ias bands of the serge. Like the tailor dress, the beauty of such:a costume is al- tegether in the cut and finish, for it must be severely plain. “Dark blue is about the best color. The waist can be of any ange but it ought “Do you mean to Mitt Ui Hy) to her toe be simple and to ha’ touch of black or white or r2d or whftever suits your taste for a relieving color. Some of the Advantages. “Now, these are the advantages: You re- become a two-handed creature; most wo- men out-of-doors are, eff2ctively, one-arm- ed. You walk among bedraggled women smart, clean and @ry.!By avoiding ex- pcsure of your pleasant-weather clothes you preserve their frashness and lengthen their lives. You obtain a new and dis- tinctive costume and e money by it. You show yourself ‘in the swim,’ in two senses; you are up with the time: Presently I inquired: “What sorts of dresses are ordered first in the spring?” The little dressmekergealled Patty, the maid, to carry off an load that squirm- ed and remonstratege sald: “We used to maks-cétton dresses first, aiways; they were fimished months before they were wanted, just because there was nothing else that could b2 done. “This season. my first orders are for golf dresses; golf players. are aimost too en- thusiastic to stop for winter at all. A New Golf Dress. “A new golf dress‘is made of smcoth brown cloth, finished with rows of stitch- ing. The jacket is quite short and is worn with a scarlat waistcoat, which opens in a square at the neck over a stiff shirt and a mannish tle. Of course there is a brown cape with a tartan Mning.” “Are you French, iittle - dressmaker? Sometimes you speak so quickly you make me think g0.”" If I were what should I “French? No. know about golf dresses? But I worked with a woman a year or two ago who made ‘omer—a girl worth a fortune to her—believe she came from Paris by just addressing her always as ‘Mlle. Mees. Blonde.” The girl was fair-haired, and the dressmaker made believe she couldn't speak her name and that she didn’t know ‘Mlle.’ and ‘Miss’ meant the same thing. The girl was delighted. 4 “But J was going to tell you about the new bicycle dresses. They are made in brighter colors than last year's, just as the new wheels are painted and decorated so much more gaily than the plain black frames everybody preferred a year or two ago. Bicycle Costumes. “I sent one hom2 this morning. It was of brilliant red-brown cloth, with a black cloth band on the short skirt and double revers of black cloth on the jacket; this opened over a shirt waist of pale blue cot- ton.” * “Suppose a woman can't wear such a ecstume,” I ventured. “Whai is saf2st for peopie with muddy skins? “To get rid of them. I don’t know a wo- man who has ridden a bicycle conse ticusly for two seasons, especially if had a little massage with her Y about any color she v ‘But while the treatment is working the woman might stick to black and white, unless she is afraid of iooking ke a widow just coming out of mourning.” I turned to inspect a couple of street dresses just ready for their bo nd tis- sue paper, understanaing t t was u less lo expect any further flow of wisdom. ‘The first one, fit for the south in March, for N2w York in May, was of abbess bli cleth, with a slightiy flounced skirt trim- med at the bottom with three rows of tur- quoise blue velvet ribbon. ‘Th= bodic pouched a little and was made with a quare yoke of transparent lace edg>1 with velvet. A low-cut over-dress was simu- lated by bands of velvet ribbon, which started on each side under the arms, turned Square corners, ran to the ist and then sloped away the skirt, with the effect of three-quarter draperies beniad. Fawn Cloth, wai The other dress was of fine fawn cloth with three flounces applied in a noy: fashion. The princess draperies—prince: styles are almost the leading ones at pres- ent—opened over an underskirt of rose- colored chiffon. The bodice had revers falling over the shoulders in three little capes and embroidered In silk and chenilie. There was a protty vest of pink chiffon. ‘The little dressmaker had chosen a hat to &» with this costume; it has a crown of roses, while the brim s of green leaves. I asked, preparatory to = “Any new ta ‘The n2w ilor gown: ailor skirts are very tight at the hips. They'll be horrible uu the pco- ple who exaggerated the Brobdignagian sleeves, and who showed us how hidcous Were th? monster hats set at right angles and how graceless the abrormai tiffened skirts. Tastel women are aly 8 sacri- ficing themselves on the altar of fashion for the good of the wiser individual. “Tailor gowns have a long point: 2pron in front. ‘The length of the skirt is com- pleted by a pleated flounce cut on the cross end decorative or not, according to how It is handled.” ELLEN OSBORN. DRESSES OF ACTRESSES, Extravagant Sums Spent in Vienna for Stage Costumes, From the Chicago News. Vienese actresses are divided into two categories—those who have magnificent dresses and those who have not. Theatri- cal circles there have more than once late- ly found food for sensational gossip in the hopeless financial condition of leading and talented actresses. From a state of ex- travagant luxury in dress the fair imper- sonators have found themselves in the pos- session of nothing more tangible than a pile of dressmakers’ bills there was no pos- sible chance of paying. Their ruin has been the enormous expenditure lavished on stage dresses. There are some curious facts about these actresses’ stage needs. An ordinary neglige costs $80 to $120; a Street dress, $60 to $80; a ball dress, $160, and a reception dress, first-class, $240 to $320—-sometimes more. For “Madame Sans-Gene” Frau Odillon paid more than $1,000 for her costumes. For the Vienna stage, where no actress is her own man- ager, this is an exceptionally extravagant outlay, although as much as $1,750 was re- cently spent in dresses by an opera singer. Her excuse was that she had to play the role of a queen and she must dress like a queen. This was a slight exaggeration of fact, however. The young queen of Hol- land gives $40 to $50 for a dress in Paris, the Archduchess Marie Valerie and Gisela pay on the average $9) to $160 for a robe. The German empress, who orders her dress- es in Vienna, confines herself to the com- paratively modest outlay of $320, while the Empress Elizabeth is contented if she can get the latest fashion, together with the best quality, in a robe that makes her im- perceptibly poorer by $60. ——+e«——___ How to Climb Stairs. From Good Housekeeping. A physician who declares that but very few people know how to walk up stairs properly gives these instructions: Usually @ person will tread on the ball of his foot in taking each step. This is very tiresome and wearing on the muscles, as it throws the entire suspended weight of the body on the muscles of the legs and feet. You should, in walking or climbing stairs, seek for the most equal distribution of the body's weight possible. In walking up stairs your feet should be placed squarely down on the step, heel and all, and then the work should be performed slowly and delib- erately. In this way there is no strain up- on any particular muscle, but each one is doing its duty in a natural manner. ‘The man who goes up stairs with a spring. you may be sure is no philosopher, or, at least, his reasoning has not been directed to that subject. The doctor might have gone a little farther in the same iine and protest- ed against the habit which many persons have of bending over half double when they ascend a flight of stairs. In exertion of this kind, when the heart is naturaly excited to more rapid action, it is desirable that the lungs should have full play. But the crouch- ing position interferes with their action, the blood is imperfectly aerated, and there is trouble right away. Give the lungs a chance to do their work everywhere and at all times, FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN Some of the Novelties for Spring and Summer Gowns, Under New Names— Grenadines and Poplins—Silks and Silk Linings. Special Correspondence of Ihe Evening Star. NEW YORK, March 3, 1898. ‘The novelties imported from Parts come this season, as atways, under various names. But a careful examination of the Lest importations leads one to the con- clusion that our grandmothers would have classed them all as grenadines and let it go at that. Certainly almost every one of them is transparent and necessitates the use of a silk lining. Sc, being content with the name grenadine, we will proceed to lock at all of the “novelties” and try to satisfy ourselves. Satisfaction will be easy if the purse is long. And even if one is obliged to be economical a silk and mo- hair grenadine is a good investment, and a very good one can be bought for less than $2.a yard. Of course, those that cost over that figure are legion, and very odd and beautiful. There is a division this spring between bayadere effects, which are very new, and tartan and siriped effects, which are very popular. Neither seems, so far, to be getting the better of the Struggle, so, in choosing 2 gown, one need only be guided by which effect of the two is the more becoraing to one’s particular style. Eit or will be smart. Grenzdine used to make one think of a lace-like fabric, generally black. It 1s still generaily black, but not black aloenc. Usually it is striped or cross-barred with some brilliant color. Burnt orange, tu>- quoise (or a darker and more beautiful shade of blue), violet, purple and often a brilliant grass-green are the colors which are generally woven with the new grena- dines. The lining, of course, is usually of taffeta silk the shade of the oolor in the fabric, and some of the daring French modistes, not satisfied with the combina- tion of these dazzling shades with the black, make collars or yokes of a con- trasting shade. One traveler just return- ed from that wordesful city of Paris de- scribes a Paquin model which was made of black greradine, striped with purple. The lining wes purple silk, and the coilar of the gown was burni-orange velvet. This sounds impossible, but is described as being beautiful. From the Time of Louis. One hears a great deal about the renais sence fabrics, and is amused to discover that most cf them are also grenadines of black, barred or striped with a contras: ing color. The name is explained by th fact that they are a revival of patterns and fabrics which were popular in the time of the late Louis XIV, XV, it is im- matcrial which. A most gossamerlike fabri, mer of moonlige to it, is name of “travers poplinc is the bayadere silk ripe cross fabric. This is most bewitching in a or violet and would rake a stuaning a well as dainty gown for garden parties and afternoon we: “Carreaux a jour is the nom de »lume of a material which reminds one of ethe- ‘ in realized poplin. The “carreaux” case is a woven stripe of ribbon put on like a little tuck, and obvi neces:ity of buying tucking for th This fabric co: this a line of black, the ribbon being blue, and the rep brought out in black and bli “Ba re soufflee” is the name of a shimmering material which has a Persian effect. and is woven in bayadere effect in soft, bright color: s called “soufflee” because it i giving the ef- terial, just as the old cre pons did, only in larger striy The color are so delicate and the fabric so soft that it, too, must be relegated to the gowns which we wear when we pose as lilies of the field. Thi ame material without the bayadere stripe comes under the name of veiling d'alger.” This latter term is much more descriptive of the cobweby ef- fect which this fabric gives, Going back to the grenadines, it 1s well to know that though the grenadines with a foundation of spool silk veiling are much worn and are certainly very alluring, they will not give the same amount of wear as the grenadines made in a way which used to be called, and is still, “Iron.” The “iron” grenadine is not necessarily an old-fash- foned, close-woven grenadine, it is often open and comes in plaids and stripes, but it does not have a background of silk veil- ing, and it is warranted not to pull under ordinary wear and tear. Silks and Silk Linings. Transparent materials are so favored that when we leave the gauzy fabrics and come to more prosaic anid more every-day ones we find that they, too, are trans- formed into open-work, so that under even cashmeres and serges and under the modi- fied hop-sacking and homespuns, which have returned to favor, it will be neces- sary to have a silk lining, as the lining must and does show. If one can afford to have but one summer gown, a silk is of course the best and most satisfactory investment, after one is pro- vided with a light-weight cloth made on severe lines for travel and ordinary occa- sions. There are several varieties of taffe. ta which are sold in different shops under different names, which bid fair to be the most popular of summer silks. Their vantage is that they are softer than old taffetas, hence wear better, and much pleasanter to wear, as they do rustle enough to make one think of crack of a whip every time a step is taken. They promise to be more popular than the foulards, and come in stripes, either hori- zontal or perpendicular, plaids, ete. They are also to be had in all the colors of the rainbow and some other shades which put an ordinary solar or lunar rainbow to the blush. Black taffeta is seen and worn e where, and many of the latest importations are of this color. Blue and white, or blue and gray, make pretty and durable gowns. Chaliis is recommended as a good inves ment for a summer and spring gown by a woman who has a great deal of experience in picking out fabrics. The new chaliis are so beautiful that it is a pity the name can- not be changed to one not associated in our minds with the very ugly patterns in which ‘challis originally appeared. The novelty challis have an exquisite satin stripe. So, if indulging in an exp satin-striped challis, remember it is not fcr shopping or traveling, only for calling ard church. Whatever material or materials are chos- en for the summer and spring adornment, remember that trimming is a matter of the greatest moment. Unless one can find a trimming to match a fabric, it is best to give it up and choose another. For we must have belts, buckles, beads and span- gles anywhere and everywhere if we are to follow fashion’s dictates. MABEL BOYD. il ery- = at ALASKAN INDIAN WOMEN. From the Woman's Home Compenion. The huge, expressionless face of an Alas- ka Indian woman shows but little evidence of any ambition or ability to perform even the simplest features of domestic art, and yet the skillful and artistic results of the handiwork of these unt much sought after by the tourists who vieit their villages during the summer. Moreover, though the women are all fat and lagy Icoking. their lives are not unine terrupted ease, notwithstanding that their needs are few. Abundance of fuel ts all about them, and food, which with them ts syninymous with fish, swims almost to their doors. But the procuring as well as tored aborigines is the preparing of this feod is all accom plished by the nen. During the sum- mer they leave the villages and towns for the islands in less frequente where they camp for weeks at a time; catching and curing the fish for winter vse, while the men lazily watch them, of le the canoe, or otherwise amuse thems eee 4 If an Indian's wife is in ill health of too old to work, he marr another ‘ounger wife, usually a relative the first one. who is expected to provide the food, while the first. w ares for the hi nishing almost and children. ‘Fish and berries futs he only food of these peos n have litue or ams bition for developing culinary art, but in matters of personal adornment’ they take keen delight. During the long, dark winter they weave beautiful blankets and ets for their own use and to sell. The kets are made from the strong rough wool of the wild mountain sheep. Yet rome of these are as soft as silk, and in beauty of coloring and intricacy of design rival the oriental rugs and hangings. It usualy takes a woman six months to com- pte one blanket, but many of them sell for prices ranging from fifty to two hun- ple, the wom dred dollars. The much-sought-after, gen= uine Chilkat blanket is about four feet long and two and one-half feet wide at each end, but as one side is pointed, the center is a foot wider than t nds, and on this side is ornamented with a ten-inch fringe. These are worn in the dance, thrown around the uulders, with the pointed fringed ging down. The design is gro consisting of conven- uonatized fa of men and animals } pale green outlined with black on a whit Sround. Sometimes dull blue takes the Place of the pale green. A peculiarity’ which stamps their genuineness is a fing thread or shaving cf deerskin in the cen- ter of each hard twi strand of wild sheep's wool yarn, ed which they are madeg | tes |has as much real authority in th rendering them QUEEN BR most indestructible. 0s ‘T OF Something About the Wise Who Fills That Ofice. From the Youth's Companion, SPAIN. rsonage in Spain crisis of its during the pre fortunes is the queen regent, Maria Chris-; tira. The maintenance of pe between, Spain and the United States has been due, in large measure to her con tism, tact Du and sagacity in facilitating a change of ministry, and enabling Sagasta to recall General Weyler from Cuba at an oppore tune moment. She ts by birth an Austrian grand duche a daughter of the Archduke Karl Fere his second wife, the Arch- Was conspicuous nd a miability, and uring her career in Spain that she possesses keen intelligen: and so- briety of judgement—the best its of the Hapsburg Lorraine hous Alfonso XIII was born in INS6, after his father's death. His mother has been the regent during his mino: and although an Austrian by birth she has commanded the loyal support of her Spanish subjects. If she had been queen in could not have exerci influence. r own richt she greater power and The education of her son has been her chief care, and she has directed it with ely common sense and maternal affec- She has also faced all th sponsi- of government with « e and She is a good queen and a wise Woman, and her great ambition is to pre- serve the monarchy for hei she succ n this sue t depenc n the pas of Cuba prevention of k of hos with the United the most ywerful cham- pion of peace in Spain, and has exerted herself stro) during re at months to bring about a change of policy in Cuba, Keeping “Tab” on a Man's Faults, From the Cleveland Lender, Mrs. Murkle-—“J. ah, do you know thaf you have sworr three times within an hour, that six Cark frowns have crossed your brow, that you have speken crossly to the children four times and that you have hitched around in your chair so much that I wouldn't be surprised if the carpet were all worn out under you?” Mr. Murkle—“Indeed! V me how many nice things [he you and the chilaren during th how often I © laughed words of encouragement I hay many twinkles have come into and how ny minutes I have lutely s Mrs. Murkle—“I haven't counted them.” Mr. Murkle—“That’s what I thought. Suppose you try looking out for a fellow’s good qualities a little while. Perhaps if you do that ycu'll not have so much time. to keep tab on his faul ow many used, how my eyes abso- Mrs. Murkle (beginning to weep)—‘Jo= slah, you are not satisfied with me. You vi you were married to some other wo- man Mr. Murkle—“Dz who could hel ing under such circumstances. I've a mind to go out and get dr Murkle here, now the animal in you is gaining full control again. Oh, why did T ever pi my fair, sweet young life in the keeping of a brute!” , (Curtain) Japancse Women, K. Mitsukuri in the Atlantle. The women of Japan have often beet misunderstood. Py those who have known’ them they have been prcnounced the best | part of Japan. They heve been described gentle, graceful, beautiful and self. sacrificing. Not cnly in those gentler vir- s, but also in some sterner aspects of fife, the Japanes> woman has shown time and again what she is made ef. Any one Who speaks against the purity of the Jap- arese woman knows not whereof he talks, or is a vile slanderer who would de- prive the woman of what is most precious to her. As the ruistress of the family she family as her western sister. As a mother she is paid great deference by her children. In sceiety a lady is always treated with re- spect. There are some respects in which changes are desirable, but, on the whole, 1 have no hesitation in saying that the po- | sition of woman in Japan is a very high i one. a stage, except that woe men, on the whole, are no obstacle to a! man’s seeing a good deal of it.—Puck, . From Life. =