Evening Star Newspaper, February 12, 1898, Page 15

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 1898-24 PAGES. SUPERB COSTUMES Seen in Vienna During the Gay So- cial Season. SPARKLE AND SHEEN OF SATIN Suggestion for a Dainty Gown for a Debutante. SKIRTS AND BODICES Speciel Correspondence of The Evening Star. VIENNA, February 2, 1808. One of woman's first duties is to look and never has she a greater oppor- to do so than during the ball sea- Never before has fashion shown more ming fancies or presented more varied materials. There is everything to choose from for everybody, and the shops are gorgeous with displays of richest silks, sat- ins and velvets of every conceivable color and shade. Above all, the eye is fascinated by the gossamer nets and gauzes, soft and cloudlike, a textile from fairyland—fit to envelop Titania herself—and as for trim- mings, all that glitters and sparkles is in order. Incrustations of lace, spangles, gold em- broideries, beads and gems play a most im- portant part in the garnitures of ball and evening gowns, and flowers, as precursors of the coming spring, also play a role, par- ticularly in the costumes of young ladies and debutantes, flounce upon flounce being sometimes edged with rows of single blos- soms, roses or margucrites or grasses and terns. Embroideries are still much in vogue, but incrustations of lace, guipure and fiat ‘che- nille will obtain most. The chenille incrus- tations can be applied with great and va- ried effect, as is illustrated in our model of today. The color of the gown of our illustration is old rose. The foundation is of old rose satin, the sheen of which throws that gray- ish tinge which has won for itself among the color nomenclature the term “ashes of roses.” The skirt shows the most approved form which designates the newest spring gown. The tight foundation skirt of old rose satin is covered smoothly with silk tulle of the same shade. Below the knees in front and gradually | widening along the sides and up the back is a flounce of the old rose tulle, exquisitely embroidered with chenille. This ruffle is attached to the skirt proper by two tiny ruches of mousseline de soie of the same shade, and one small ruche of the same ma- terial edges the hem of the tulle flounce. Unique and Simple. The bodice {s as unique as it is simple. The foundation of old rose satin is draped with full blouselike effect in front with old rose silk tulle, embroidered with chenille in the same motifs as the skirt. Full ruch- ings of old rose mousseline de soie edge the square decollete in front. The very low-cut back is made of mir- roir velvet of the same shade of “ashes of roses.” It forms a little jacket with a full ue and pointed bolero front and down- It is lined with ed with a very the color harmony again recalling the gray hue of the ashes of ros To complete the effect, a bunch of fragrant Parma violets is attached to the left corner of the decollete, and a smaller bunch is tucked in the silver fil- agree belt set with sirailf and closing with an exquisitely worked buckle of silver, likewise set with simili. The small puff sleeve consists of tiny ruches of old rose mousseline de sole, each ruche being edged with cheniile. Sly manufacturers are congratulating themselves, as their productions are abso- lutely indispensable to the modern toilet, as even the sheer silk materials are worn over self-colored silk, the glint of which is most effective through the transparent clouds that veil it. Eight yards of gauze is sometimes re- quired to drape a skirt, cnd a favorite fancy for young ladies’ ball gowns Is to cover the silk or satin foundation with three or more skirts of thin fabric, each skirt being shorter than the lower one, so that it gives the impression of three flounces of graduated length. For a Debutante. Our second model is an illustration of this method of skirt garnitures, and is de- signed for a debutante, for whom this airy, dainty costume is particularly appro- priate. Shining white satin forms the tight-fit- ting underskirt and bodice. The white satin skirt is veiled with three full skirts of white gauze, and each skirt is edged with full blown wild roses and occasional buds and foliage. The decollete bodice is of charming sim- plicity, tight at the back and with full folds of white gauze arranged as a sur- plice in front. The puff sleeves are intersected with rows of wild roses and foliage, and the same dainty blossoms encircle the arm. A full belt, finished at the back with a wide sash of pink satin, is veiled with white gauze and the sash ends are edged with white roses. A large spray of wild roses at one side of the belt in front and another high spray in the hair finish this costume, which con- veys an aspect of delighted youthfulness and grace. This gown has the advantage of being ef- fective in other color combinations. We would suggest as particularly strik- ing, red gauze over red satin and trimmed with poppies. and very delicate sage green oats and grasses. Red satin slippers and red silk hosiery should finish the ensemble. Another effective, though more subdued, gown, particularly suitable for a blonde, would be a black silver-striped gauze bor- dered with violets. YELLE (Cu. DascoLt, Vienne» TO DRY CHILDRE: The Way to Do It So That the Leather Will Not Shrink. From the Buffalo Express. “Damp feet are always walking toward dis e and death,” says an eminent phy- s and a more impressive truth it would be difficult to put into words. Chil- dren must play out of doors and they will out in all weathers. It is alm always the case that when the little shoes off at night, they are damp, ff not actually wet. The careless mother passes them by. thinking that they will dry by forgetting that, even though they they will ve harsh, uncomfortable irritating to tender little feet, and lay the foundation for discomfort and ing untold. When the Httle ones finished their play, they should be ht to remove their shoes and stockings ton dry ones. House shoes of soft er or felt are inexpensive and com- nle. and they last a long time, be- s being a great saving in noise and the irritation that is often harder to than the laborious work with which the housemother has to struggle. As soon as the shoes are taken off they should be filled to tne very tops with dry oats. s a custom of one of the most an, provident women who ever raised a family to prepere “king feet of the sizes of the various shoes worn by the children. ‘These are numbered and hung up on a nail in the entryway, where the little ones keep their wrappings. These stocking feet have short tops; in fact, they are shaped more like a baby’s sock than anything else. They are filled with oats and sewed up at the top. A couple of inches of extra room is allowed at the top, and when the shoes are to be filled, the oats are shaken loosely through the stocking, then it is put into the shoe and adjusted as nearly in the ferm of the human foot as possible. A few gentle raps will settle the oats into the shoe; then a strong cord is tied around the stocking top as close to the grain as possible. The oats being perfectly dry oc- cupy @ given amount of space. As they absorb the moisture, which they begin to do immediately, they swell a little and keep ths leather from shrinking. ——— Rice at Wedding: From the Ilustrated London News. A clergyman in the eastern colonies has issued a request to his people not to throw rice at weddings, on the ground that the practice means a great deal of extra clean- ing up from the church and church yard. “If you must shower something sym! of blessings on their heads,” he says, t it be outside.” If, when a bridegroom himself, he had had rice thrown in his eyes he would have taken a more serious view of the matter. I have known the best part—that is, the first part—-of a honeymoon passed with an oculist instead of the bride in consequence of this cus- tom. If the rice must be thrown, let it be boiled first. “Brute! I know now that you are /“Well, my dear, I certainly am not leading a single one.” leading a double life,” t HOUSEHOLD HINTS]. Frappes are used so commonly now for all afternoon and evening functions, and may be made so readily and inexpensively at home, that it behooves the housewife to instruct her cook, or in a modest establish- ment, the maid of all work, how to prepare two or three varieties. A frappe, as its name designates, is but a water ice, partially frozen. It fs stirred until soft and mushy, rather than firm stiff. An easy way ts to let the mixture stand in the freezer without stirring, occasionally scraping the icy por- tions from the sides into the frozen part. Besides cafe frappe, which is the most com- mon form, frappe may be made of lemon, crange, plum, cherry, chocolate, pineapple, Ceylon tea or almost anything else that is used for water ices. It is served in handled glasses, with or without spoons, as it is used az a beverage or dessert. . A pineapple frappe is made by pressing two large, ripe pineapples through a co- lander, adding a pint of water, white of one egg, and sugar to make very sweet. Par- tlally freeze, using equal parts of ice and salt in the freezing. The popular cafe frappe is made from a quart of very strong black coffee, strained, poured into a quart of cream and sweetened to taste. Serve when half froz- en, in glasses with a spoonful of whipped cream piled en top of each glass. A constant supply of fresh air, even in very cold weather, is so important in the prevention and cure of diseases that no ef- forts should be spared to see that sleeping rooms are well supplied with this free gift of God. When there is no adequate system of ventilation provided, the following method is at once simple, economical ana does not create a draught: Raise the lower sash of the window and place in front of the opening at the bottom a piece of wood of any desired width. This leaves a corresponding space between the meeting sashes in the middle of the win- dow through which the current of air is Girected upwards toward the ceiling. While this may involve the use of an ex- tra amount of fuel, it is a wise precaution, especially in the sick room, when the ex- halations from the sick body are both un- pleasant and unwholesome. Chiffon is such a flimsy as well as ex- pensive material that many people refrain from wearing it on that account. Most people do not know that it can be washed and made to look equal to new by a very simple process; but, according to an En- glish authority, this may be done. It is washed, say the directions, in much the same way 4s muslin, and after rinsing is put through very thin clear starch. Care must be taken not to twist it in any way. It should be incased in the folds of a towel and beaten with the hands until dry. Chiffon must be ironed almost immediat ly, it dries so quickly. After being stretch- ed to its proper shape it should be ironed on the wrong side with a moderately hot iron. If it is a large piece too much should not be exposed to the air at a time, and on no account be made stiff. It should be made to fall softly with just sufficient stiffening to prevent a limpsy look. In giving beef teas to the invalid re- member that the beef tea that is clear and transparent is good and useful as a stimu- lant, but is altogether worthless as a nourishment, and people cannot live on it. A most nutritious beef broth that may be Kept for a week if the cover is left off while cooling is made in this way: To three pounds of solld beef from the shoul- der or shin, with all dried skin or any soft or bloody portions removed, add three pounds of bones from the same part of the beef and four quarts of cold water. Put in a jar and cook from eight to twelve hours in a slow oven. Strain through a colander and add two teaspoonfuls of salt. If you are going to keep it, leave the fat on, breaking off just enough each day to allow of getting out the stock underneath. Heat and give to the patient with or with- out crackers, as desired. Cheese custards, served with thin bread and butter sandwiches, are often given as @ separate course before dessert. Into a cupful of warm (not hot) milk stir one teaspoonful of corn starch until dissolved, two tablespoonfuls of butter, an eighth of a teaspoonful of soda, six table- spoonfuls of grated cheese, half a saltspoon of white pepper, a few grains of cayerme, @ quarter of a teaspoonful of mustard and salt to taste. Heat carefully in a dou- ble boiler until -the cheese ts dissolved. Add four eggs, whites and yelks beaten separately until light and stir until smooth, Bake in quick oven about ten minutes, or until Nght and brown. The mixture should be baked separately for each person in paper cases or pattypans, and eaten as soon as done. All cheese dishes should be served very hot. Spiced apples are both appetizing and timely, now that the housekeeping store of relishes is running low. Make a sirup of qual parts of sugar, water and vinegar, adding a few whole cloves and a few pieces of stick cinnamon. When. scalding put In firm, tart apples, peeled and quar- tered, and cook gently until tender, but not broken. Remove with a skimmer, boil the sirup until it thickens and pour’ over the apples. When the hair shows a tendency to fall out the very best thing to stop its coming out and promote its growth is the abund- ant use of genuine olive ofl. Saturate the hair thoroughly, and keep it saturated for a week, until the dry scalp has absorbed all it will, then wash with pure soap and water. If this operation is repeated every two or thre> months, the effect is said to be marvelous. The difference in the nomenclature of mutton or lamb chops is often the source of bewilderment to the novice in market- ing. Th> following, however, are the points of difference. A rolled’ loin chop makes an English chop. A rolled rib chop, scraped, makes a French chop. A rolled rib chop makes & German chop. Clotheslines should always be taken down after the wekly wash, if possible, rolled up aud placed in a bag until next time. If the line is a pulley or a wire line, and up to stay, wipe off carefully with 6 damp cloth each time before using. Clothespins n2ed washing occasionally to keep them at their best. A good plan js to drop them in the boiler after the clothes hav2 been taken up, then pour the water off, rinse the pins, and dry thoroughly be- fore putting away. A double chopping knife is one of the labor-saving utensils that should find a Place in every kitchen where time and strength are valued. Onions are great absorbents. They should not be left cut for any length of time and then used. Clothes turned right side out, carefully folded and sprinkled, are half ironed. ——— Woman Club House in London. From the St. James’ Gazette. For th first time there is a library in London specially devoted to topics concern- ing women and of special interest to the sex. It is to be found at the Grosventor Crescent Club, which has been opened about a month now, in ona of the finest London houses in one of tho best situa- tions. Combined with it under the same rcof is the Woman’s Institute. Members of the club need not necessarily be mem- bers of the institute, and vice versa, the institute having a private and distinct en- trance. No clubite, male or female, could be better housed or with daintier surround- ings. Men can be members of the institute and ar> admitted as guests to the club, smoking being permitted in the game room. A fine drawing room, reading room and spacious dining rooms are supplemented by one apartment sacred to members only, so that, when the rest of thasuite are ap- propriated by party-givers, those not tak- ing part in the festivities are here undis- turbed. The apartments are very taste- fully paper2d, and some most covetable mirrors appear over the drawing room fire- places. Every detail has been “considered and no elem2nt of comfort is wanting. There are bed rooms which m2mbers ¢ai occupy for a fortnight or so, and by a con- venient arrangement rooms cag be hir:d by the hour in order to make any necessary ehange of The tariff of meals is a moderate one, and the private dining room can b> taken for parties, so that women who have not a town house can entertain their friends—a great boon in so many in. etances, Ry YY as WOMEN’S WARDROBES A Mistake to Devote too Much At- tention to Dress, GOOD TASTE ALWAYS SETS A LIMIT Safe and Seasonable Suggestions for Spring Shoppers. ee OVERSKIRTS ONCE MORE —_+——— + (Copyright, 1898, by Bacheller Syndicate.) Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, February 11, 1898. {HE DRESSMAK- ers, buyers and heads of dry goods departments who sailed for Paris after Christmas are re- turning, and the de- signers who retired into their inner con- sciousness to evolve ideas are emerging; 50 that it will be pos- sible shortly for women who like to get their work “done up early” to provide themselves witl} a spring outfit and be free from dress worrles. Whatever may have been true in the past, it is not true now that the women of best social position devote any undue propor- tion of their time to their wardrobes. There is a period in the late winter and another in the early autumn ‘when dresses are plan- ned and ordered with an eye to form and color and a nice sense of suitability to the person and to occasions that have become Part of a cultivated’ woman's education. In the midseason there are probably gaps to fill or necessary, replenishments; but aside from these, once an outfit has been prepared the subject is dismissed from the mind. “Why, bless you, child,” said a woman whose rank in the social world could hard- ly be questioned, when asked by a young visitor, to take her shopping, ‘‘that's seme- thing for which I can’t find time.” Never Buy Too Much. A little while ago, when times were hard in the south, a southern woman from a “busted boom” town was staying with a northern sister and was urged to have some dressmaking done. She refused, say- ing that not a woman in her set could af- ford good clothes, and that she couldn't look her friends in the face unless she were respectably shabby. A feeling not wholly unlike this limits the number of gowns bought by some women who do not have to consider money. A successful toi- let calls for such perfection of fit, such delicacy of color, harmonies and contrasts, such thought in the selection of ornaments and such care in every detail that many women who are rigorously exacting as to what they buy are equally careful not to buy profusely. Said a woman of this order recently: “Every dress costs so many hours that I dare not appear before my friends in too many, else they will feel that I am squan- dering all my time.” ‘Women like this keep up with the world’s Progress. Even if they did not, if they had no hobbies in education, art or philan- thropy, the exactions of society, life itself, would leave them less time to spend upon dress than is consumed by many women of smaller means who save a little money at bargain counters and special sales at the cost of much nerve force and vitality. Marks the Snob. Economy of life commends the society woman's plan of settling dress questions, so far as possible, twice a year. The cus- tom of the best society approves the pur- chase at these buying periods of a moderate number of costumes, varying with the de- mands of one’s position, as artistically beautiful as taste can make them. A pro- fusion of too costly and unsuitable clothes marks the snob as plainly as neglect of the Gress marks the person of little sensitive- ness or refinement. In early buying this season there are things to avoid. The success of the broad, striped sashes in Roman colors, which light up dark dresses amazingly, has led to the bringing out of dress silks in stripes and lee of monstrous dimensions. In large, igh rooms some of these might do for wall hangings, but considered as costumes, even for giantesses, they are things to shudder at. Spring dresses will be made with over- skirts; but these will be as long as the un- derskirts, perhaps lifted at some point to show the contrasting material. A graceful design that appears with many varieties among the early models -has a princess overdress opening infront over an under- dress and bodice of a different color. I have by me some fine old prints of French and Italian costumes if the sixteenth cen- tury, from any one of a number of which this idea might have been-adapted. One of the infanta of Spain in 1598 shows a satin cere hemmed with 2, broad jeweled . The overskirt of richly figured bro- cade flows back from thé front and just touches the ground. It'is {rimmed up and down the sides with ‘gold ‘thread embroid- ery. Bd The Overskfrt of Today. The overskirt of twenty years ago copied the ugly panniers of theirisixteenth cen- tury originals, but faited to‘¢opy the longer flow of the draperies: ending below the knees, they cut the figure sadly. The over- dresses of 1898 will omit the panniers, but revert to the stately; Jength of the days when hurry and rush were unknown. It {s an interesting fact. that in the days from which we take the overskirt the hair was dressed much as-ft is now, turning back from the face and standing out at the sides. The underskirt of 1898 is three yards and a half round. The outer skirt is much wid- er. Sleeves will become even smaller than they are and ruffies wili continue rampant. Dresses for all formal occasions are made long, but the instinct of self-preservation out for short-street dresses. Hatg for Spring. Spring hats, as thus far displayed, are most evenly divided between the ugly pork- pie shapes affected this*winter and straight brims. Fanciful toqies in coarse grass and ribbon straws are nymerous. Some are ex- tremely pretty; others look as if ae been ¢rushed in ‘two hands and then tied up with rinpeee ark flowers. A satin erown, a willow brim and a mass of white ‘thls violets is a favorite combination. Large black hats are trimmed with tulips. A wide hat in reseda straw has knots of orange velvet under the brim and ts trim- med with orange and pale yellow jonquils. A dress which forms part of a February bride’s trousseau is of powder blue cloth with a separate underskirt of red silk trimmed with narrow ruffles. The over- skirt is brightened by red ribbons run about it at intervals and held by buttoned tops of blue. At one side are sash ends of the cloth—a newer fancy than ribbon sashes; these are edged by red silk ruches. The bodice is of vowder blue silk with a front of white lace, upon which opens a surplice front of red silk drawn down straight on one side, draped across and edged with a silk ruche on the other. The hat for wear with this costume ts of blue straw with black ostrich plumes. Stylish Gowns. A visiting dress recently finished and beautiful in color is of a delicate pearl- gray cloth with an underskirt of silk cov- ered with green chiffon. The princess over- dress opens dewn the front and is trimmed with an exquisite vine embroidered in gray, brown and old rose. The bodice has open fronts of gray cloth with guimpe of chiffon over silk. There is a high cloth collar with square revers upon the shoulders. A four- in-hand tie of green velvet reaches to the waistband. Bicycle dresses, which on city streets are serviceable a good part of the winter, are mide longer for spring wear than last season. The abuse of the old short skirt with the brilliant plaid stockings has pro- duced the inevitable reaction. Another reason, perhaps, lies in the fact that many wemen are using bicycle suits for rainy days’ walking costumes; while others— busy women—wear them mornings in the house, so as not to :ni 2 chance of air and exercise through delay or ¢ ing clothes. The bicycle, doctors say, cutting down the death rate. in these stuffs there {s a great ontput of foulards, challies ani flowered organdies. Pattern dresses in embroidered Swiss an white organdie are sold with skirts rea. made nd trimmed with embroidered aist material accompanying. 'S a trick to cheat the dressmaker,” said one of the guild who was shopping with a customer “Oh, then, I'll buy one!” answered the ungrateful woman. _ ELLEN OSBORN. Sara ere BEDS AND BEDSPREADS. Very Ornate and of the Most Expen- sive Materials, From Harper's Bazar, The furnishing of the bed room in these days of luxury requires very close a-ten- tion, for fashions change in furnishing quite as much as in anything else, and of course every one wants to have bed rooms as well as the rest of the house in the latest style. Bedsteads are very ornate, and in many instances the most exquisite pieces of workmanship. The most beautiful and ex- pensive kinds of wood are used, and there would seem to be no end to the different shapes. Whole sets of furniture are not often seen—that is, unless they are of the handsomest material. In place of the cheap, poorly made, badly put together wooden bedstead, there are now used the enameled iron ones with brass trimmings. These always look dainty end fresh, and are very easily kept in order. The bed- spreads for them can he of slik, lace or lin- en; some very fine ones are made of an exquisite quality of linen, with a border of drawn work, and an elaborate monogram in the center. Some for simple rooms, and these the prettiest, are of dotted muslin put over a silk lining, then the valance of the bed is of the mus- lin, and there is a canopy with curtains also of muslin. Others again, when the room is hung and upholstered with denim, are of denim to match, spread, hangings and valance, embroidered with white cot- ton or floss in outline. There are some charming Japanese cottons which come in dull blues and greens, and there are also heavy colored linens in various tints. For variety the hangings and valance may be of one material, with the spread and bolster of another harmonizing one. Old mahogany beds, which have been for a time despised, have again been brought out and repolished, and there are also many made on the same graceful lines that were in fashion years ago. Of course they are expensive, but it is a question, when used with the furniture to match, if they are not the handsomest that there are, for the wood is of the finest, and must needs be kept beautifully polished and in order. These beds need to have the handsomest of covering. On them should be used the finest linen with hand embroidery, or lace spread over silk or satin linings. When there are hangings for these beds they match the other upholstery of the room, and are generally of satin or tapestry, al- though now so many bed rooms are fur- nished in cretonne that the cretonne hang- ings are also used. The lace used in tue spreads should be of Irish point or Renais- sance. Pillows are not now often seen on beds in the daytime; there ts instead a round bolster, over which the top of the spread is put, but some old-fashioned housekeepers still cling to the pillows, and have these separate from those to be used at night. They have pillow slips to match the spread, and the polliws should be large and square and well stuffed, so that they present a thoroughly neat, trim appear- ance. When plain linen spreads are used they are very heavily ornamented with drawn work, and of course there is no end to the variety, of design, but only hand- work is permitted, and of the very best. Some of the spreads have a plain center and lace border; others again are made of Squares sewed together, with lace around the edge. The drawn work is generally put around the center, and then there is a deep hemstitched border. . 22 —____ A Circulating Library for the Blind. From the London Mail. What is perhaps the strangest library in the world is situated in a private house on one of the quietest thoroughfares of. Hampstead. At No. 114 Belsize road there is a lending library for the blind, the only institution of its kind, which caters for the wants of the entire sightless popula- tion of Great Britain and Ireland. Found- ed sixteen years ago by a blind lady, Miss Arnold, as a private library for the use of a few afflicted people, there rapidly grew up a demand for its benefits all over the country. It now numbers over 3,500 volumes, has a membership of 500 readers, and its books circulate as far as the north of Scotland in the one direction and the Channel islands = the other. ane: appear- ance which the library presen: an un- common one. The shelves are piled with large folio volumes. Some idea of the it requires may be gathered from the fact that the Bible, Srandiaten into Dr. Moon's system, fills no less > two volumes. The books which thé. sight- less borrow do not differ materially~ from those which circulate ng carey. novels, but readers. They read mostly " of Hemene! there is a steady call for Own Times.” But, and the’ “History of Our ‘Ows an 3 o! it t any other library, there is a ormiane saemenn for the newest books. 18 Mrs. Rorer (Principal of the Philadelphia Cooking School, and Cookery Editor of the Ladies’ Home Journal) says :— ‘In my schools and in illustrating my lectures I have thoroughly tested all the lead- ing Baking Powders, and ‘Cleveland's Superior’ Powder has invariably given the best results. ‘‘A rounded teaspoonful of it will accom- plish as much or more than a heaping tea- spoonful of any other powder. ‘Food made with leveland’s Baking Powder keeps moist and fresh, and in this respect it is superior to any powder I know. “‘Cleveland’s Powder is entirely free from Ammonia, Alum, or other adulterants. “I am convinced Cleveland’s is the purest baking powder made, and I have adopted it exclusively in my cooking schools and for daily household use.” FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN Fashion’s Latest Decrees About Sashes and Girdles. Dame How to Arrange the Old So as to Con- form to the New Styles. Special Ccrrespondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, February 10, 1898. ‘There is something a little sad to women of moderate purses in the fact thet an old fashion returning is always so changed that it requires ingenuity, invention end indus- try to adapt the ola models to the new shape. Such is the case with sashes and ties. Full white mull ties were much worn a decade or more ago, but those which were suitable then need a great deal of change to make t wearable now. For now they are half as long again as they were when previously worn. Sashes have never gone out. They are al- ways worn more or less, although for the last few years ribbons tied in trim, full bows were considered more chic. The sashes in vogue four or five years ago, and even later, were from three to four and a half yards long, growing longer from sea- son to season. One of those old sashes now looks rather aesthetic, but not at all smart when placed in comparison with the made sash of bows, trimmed with lace, and rut- fled edge of lace or chiffon. How to Make Over the Old. The old sash need not be discarded, how- ever. If it is a plain ribbon sash get nar- row lace, or chiffon, and make a full little ruffle all eround the ends, cutting the sash off in @ tapering point before trimming it— if you have no scruples about sacrificing the silk to fashion’s demands. Tie it in a bow with very short loops, and ends reach- ing almost to the hem of the gown. If making the waist look smaller is not a necessary object it need only be folded about the waist, quite in the old way. But if it is necessary to make the waist look smaller the sash will have: to be cut and shaped tnto a@ girdle, straight at the bot- tom, but having whalebone to shape it in- to two potnts at the top, one to be worn un- der each arm, or two points nearer togeth- er, which will bring them under the bust. This is the very latest, or rather these two points are the latest. ‘The Roman Sash. An old Roman sash will not need as much change as all this, for striped sashes are worn quite in the old way, simply with fringe around the bottom. The loops, how- ever, must be short, in order that they may not give a drooping effect, while the ends should nearly sweep the floor. Drooping effects are quite out of fashion, except in the new overskirts. Nearly everything, from stiff white collars to four-in-hand ties, must have a trimness and finish about it. But so curious is Dame Fashion that no sSooyer does she reach a certain effect than she introduces another quite the con- trary. Our sashes must stand up and be trim; cur collars must be high and also trim. But our new skirts are to trail, our house skirts at least, and a new Roman stripe tie just introduced is to be worn Knotted softly about the throat, without a sign of the starched collar above it, which we had begun to consider necessary for every occasion except dining and dancing. Ribbons and Ribbon Sashes. Ribbons and ribbon sashes promise to be Prominent features of the summer gowns, and even of spring gowns which are made for festive occasions. No summer material is shown without a ribbon trailing about it of the color with which it is designed to trim it. The sashes which are to be worn with afternoon and reception gowns are generally made. Some of them can be bought ready made, and are very gay, in- deed. Ribbon, with large, bright stripes, alternating with insertion of lace, delicate or heavy, as the fancy may dictate, is made up into girdles either with or without dou- ble points, two, three or more short loops of ribbon and two long ends. All but the girdle part is edged with narrow lace full- ed on. Large plaids are often used for these sashes. Two very gay ones noticed this week were of green and white and he- lictrope and white, respectively. They were both combined with black lace. One very expensive sash was made of alternating rows of black lace and white satin ribbon edged with narrow black lace of the same pattern. This was designed for a black satin gown combined with white. These sashes can all be easily mede at home at about one-fifth the cost for which they can be bought or what they will cost if your modiste sends one home with your new gown. Whether the insertion of lace runs across or down the length of the sash is merely a matter of taste. It might be well to have the insertion run horizontally if one were tall and up and down if one were short. Of Chiffon. Sashes of chiffon, to be worn with even- ing gowns, are dreams of frail loveliness. They, too, have long ends, and several short loops, generally only two, but do not have a girdle effect in front, simply fitting closely to the waist as any tied sash would. They are all edged with a narrow, full dou- ble ruffie of chiffon. In pale blue, pink, yellow or lavender they are an addition to dancing frocks, while in black they are & most effective finish for the black taffeta gowns so much worn now for every aftér- noon function and many evening ones. Buckles and Girdles. buckles, and more could be crowded but it is hoped that the rage for buckles will moderate itself before it is carried to such an extent that they have to be dis- carded. One can buy sets of buckles in al- most any shop. Very bright ones can be had for a small amount, but if one wishes to invest in steel or mock stones the price is not moderate. However, buckles are an investment. In some place they are nearly always worn. When we tate them off our bodices we put them on our hats, and when we get tired of that we put them on our shoes. Even belts seem to have joined the buckle brigade. The latest belt is of black velvet, with at least four cut-steel buckles on it. Two, presumably, to clasp it on, but wo more can scarcely be needed to adjust it. However, if buckles are to be worn to this extent let us not be the last to put them on, for the fashion may die out before we have adopted this bright ornament. MABEL BOYD, Self-Pity Too Often Means Loss of Moral Force. From Harper's Bazar. We all love sympathy. Perhaps that ace counts for the fact that few of us will listen to another's tale of woe without chiming‘ in with an account of our own grievances. A small girl who has a baby brother al~, Ways "seems to envy him the sympathy showered upon him when he has the colic. As s00n as the mother tries to soothe the fretful baby and speaks pityingly to him, a small hand pulls her arm, and a plaintive little voice suggests, “Me too, mamma!” Do not many of us go through the world with a pitiful “Me too!” consiantly on our lips? The heart knoweth its own bitters hess and the soul its own trials, and it is hard not to cry out “Me too!” when we see lavished upon others the sympathy for which we long and of which we feel we stand in need. And yet how much braver it is to keep si- lence! Every time we exercise the habit of self-control we gain fresh strength with which to control ourselves. Last week I heard two women talking. Perhaps it would be nearer the truth to say that one was talking, the other listening. The listener had recently been told by a specialist that @ course of long and severe surgical treat- ment would be necessary to relieve her of @ painful malady that had taken elasticity from her step and the roundness from her figure. The talker herself had not been very well, and expiated upon her uncom- fortable feelings and the many disagreeable things, such as dieting and regular exercise, her.physician had prescribed for her case. “You don’t know how hard it is 10 have to suffer so much!” she complained. “You have lost flesh, but you are well, aren't you?” You never complain.” “I seldom have cause for complaint,” was the cheerful reply. “I am indeed sorry you are so far from well.” Later I took my friend to task for her reticence on the subject of her health. “Why did you not tell her,” queried I. “that her suffering is as nothing to yours?’ “Because,” she answered, “I will not al- low myself to grumble. It becomes a habit which annoys others and harms yourself. I simply dare not do it. I will not even pity myself. If I did, I should be gone. Self- pity means loss of moral force.” She hed struck the right note. While we hold our ailments, physical or mental or spiritual, at arm’s length and fight them we keep brave. When we sink down and look at them in all their hideousness, and wall “Woe is me!” we lose the last atom of courage, and become weak and cowardly. We may have trials, and heavy ones, but as we value our moral strength of charac- ter and force of will, fet us refuse to utter the whining “Me too! The Prince of Wales’ Dinner Table. From “Our Prince at Home.” Good taste reigns over all the arrange- ments. Thus, the tablecloths are severely plain, though of the finest quality, and simply worked with the royal arms—the rose, the thistle and the shamrock—while the table napkins are invariably folded into a small square to hold the bread, and never in the fancy shapes in vogue else- where. To each guest two forks, and no more, are provided, and these are placed prongs downward. In addition there are one large tablespoon and one large knife, for in no circumstances are two knives together given to any guest. A great many reasons have been assigned for this rule, but apparently no one has summoned up the courage to ask the royal host and hostess. It has been asserted that his royal highness has the old-fashioned dis- like to seeing knives inadvertently crossed. Small water bottles are used, but the princess holds to the Hanoverian habit of never having finger bowls. At Maribor- ough House dinner begins at 8:45, and is never allowed to last much more than an hour. Occasionally during dinner soft mu- mae layed. The menu is always served a t is to say, nothing is carved in the dining room. ——_+o-+—___. A Table Cloth. From the Milwaukee Evening Wisconsin. At the wedding of Miss Minnie Roemer of St. John’s and Peter Merbach of Madi- son, Minn., in Kaukauna Tuesday, a novel- ty was found among the wedding presents. It was a large, pure white linen table cloth woven by the bride’s great-great-grand- mother. —_-+ Steamed Eggs. From the London Evening News