Evening Star Newspaper, January 29, 1898, Page 15

ada a pein RECEPTION GOWN. A STRIKING COSTUME Remarkable Color Combination in a Model Evening Gown. <THE ADVENT OF THE TIGHT SLEEVE Novelties for Spring That Promise to Be Popular. EXIT THE RUSSIAN BLOUSE Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. BRUSSELS, January 23, 1898. With the approaching carnival season, the time for social gayety is fairly insti- tuted. All continertal Europe is prepar- ing to lay aside all seriousness and make of itself a huge bedlam, until somber Ash Wednesday tolls in fasting and renuncta- tion and the gay werld craving for change assumes another mask and order is grad- tally re-established. Our model of an elegant reception or evening gown may find approval in this scason of social festivities. The color combination of this toilet is remarkable—as cream, rose, cerise, pale green, steel and gold combine to make a most harmonious ensemble. The tight foundatior skirt consists of cerise taffeta veiled with rose-colored gauz; over this, in turn, falls a skirt of cream-colored gauze, which finally is cov- ered by another skirt of rose-colored mous- seline de soie. All this is the result of care- ful study on the part of the costumer to set off to best advantage the exquisite everdress of real Bruges lace, which falls gracefully to the hem of the flimsy under- skirts, which form such a fairylike founda- ticn. In front the lace opens, disclosing a shirred tablier of rose mousseline. The ning of the tight bodice is of cerise taffeta, covered like the skirt, with rose and cream colored gauze and rose mousse- lire, ard finally with the Bruges lace. The front shows two large and very novel re- veres of pale green velvet, covered with en applique of real lace, and edged with a Tuche of cerise taffeta. loose vest exposed by the reveres is ise taffeta, as is also the plain high The sleeves are an adaptation of the Henri III style, as indeed the whole gown recalls the costumes of that picturesque period. Cerise taffeta-forms the tight lining of the sleeves, and is covered with ten puffs ©f rose-colored mousseline de soie over cream-colored gavze. These puffs, grad- uating In size, are caught by narrow gold, steel and pearl beading, and finish at the wrist with a narrow fall of lace. A girdle of gold, steel and pearls of artis- | tc workmanship encircles the waist, ter- | minating in a leng fringe in front. Spring Noveitics. We row proceed to give our views and Tredictions on the nouveautes of the spring fashions. Limited space and time do not permit us to go into details; but we hope that our observations, which are based upon careful study of the fashion tenden- cies during previous seasons, will prove trustworthy and valuable to our interested American readers. No part of the costume is more eagerly watched and imitated in its developments than the skirt. This important article of clothing is submitting gradually to modi- fications which render it more graceful and becoming, while abandoning the plain and straight lines, which have always in- dicated a certain stiffness. The newest and most approved spring skirt is trimmed with a flounce of some shape or kind. This flounce being suscepti- ble to innumerable variations, great free- dom will be given to the imagination of the enterprising couturier, who, while following his own bon gout, can remain within the strict limits of fashion and yet create the most charming innovations. Thus this flounce may be long enough to form the entire lower part of the skirt, or it may be short.in front and running grad- ually higher at the sides until it reaches the belt at the back. For skirts of light stuffs, the flounce is given a very airy appearance by knife or accordion pleating, or it may be edged with a small ruche of mousseline de sole, gauze or other analogous tissues,"a mode very adaptabie to light silks. Skirt and Bodice. In short, the coming skirt will have the effect of being tight over the hips, and voluminous below the knees, owing to the flounce garnitures. As to the bodice, the blouse form, which has been truly abused, will consequently be almost abandoned in elegant costumes. It follows the career of so many other charming modes, which would exist longer if worn with more discernment. __The Russian blouse, for example, which is positively ugly on all but long, small waists and undeveloped hips, has been most favored by short and stout women, much to their detriment, so that this fash- jon, which met with such tremendous sue. cess at first, bids fair to be promptly aban. doned, and instead the tight bodice will be taken up and trimmed to give the graceful fullness at the chest and bust only- The sleeves will soon regain normal pro- portions; that is, they will inclose the arm tightly, in spite of strenuous opposition on the part of many famous costumers, who claim that the full sleeve is more artistic and becoming, as well as more comfortable, As regards garnitures of bodices, we atc happy to mention that two trimmings, both ¢aually becoming and both acknowledged favorites, both temporarily suppressed by more striking but less graceful noveltice are looming up again on the horizon of spring and summer fashions. ‘They are the yoke and zouave jacket. Both will ds much to reinstall natural elegance of form and tasteful dress. Fabrics are many and varied; but we me note Gs subject as that of mil- nery and headgear for anothe: - ty in the near future, oe Hirsce & Co., Brussels. Amsterdam, Cologne, Dresden, and Hamburg. SILK PETTICOATS. Frills and Lace and Rosettes of Many Colors on Her Dainty Lingerie. From St. Paul's. ening petticoats, to give them the old- ‘ashioned name that has been ousted by the more modern “underskirt,” are quite regal in their magnificence this winter, and rich brocades and the finest glaces are trimmed profusely with lace and chiffon frills, An evening skirt that deserves mention is of heavy satin duchesse in an {vory shade, with a bottom flounce of kilted ivory lace, with two frills of accordion-pleated chiffon falling over that again, their colors being palest green, with faint rose-pink forming the upper flounce. A ruche of frayed-out green and pink silk finished the top of the flounce, and above that again were van- dyked rows of Valenciennes lace insertion laid alternately over green and pink satin ribbon of the same width. The insertion was laid off with a narrow lace beading, through which was threaded bebe ribbon of pale green and pink, which broke out at intervals into pretty little fussy rosettes of the two colors blended. Yet another pretty garment to be seen is of rose-red glace silk of the richest descrip- tion, with two foamy flounces of ed glace, covered in their turn with Kilted ed chiffon with an edge trimming of m lace headed with insertion. A black brocade, with pattern of fleur-de- lis and their leaves, has an under flounce of pe xilted silk, covered with two of pleated black lace,threaded with heliotrope and green narrow ribbons, and headed with a wide black lace insertion that gives opportunity for the introduction of heliotrope satin ribbon, which is finished at intervais with hanging bows. A pale blue glace silk skirt, with a plain flounce of the same, is made beautiful by this flounce being covered with inch-wide frills of cream pleated chiffon edged with blue vel- Vet bebe ribbon. Divided skirts for evening wear are very pretty garments in satin or rich silk, with the legs very wide, and fully frilled with lace, chiffon or kilted silk, and to those who delight in dividedskirts these garments are just the prettiest wear possible, for they do not look very different to ordinary skirts, on account of their very full frills at the edge. But to insure the proper and elegant fall of the outer skirt, there is nothing to surpass a well-hung petticoat with ful! out- standing flounces. e-—____ Kitchen Measures, Young housekecpers are frequently both puzzled and annoyed by the different terms used in different cook books. Generally all irgredicnts are mcasured by the cup, pint and qvart. So when an author advises that ore put a half pound cf sugar into a cer- tain preparation the uninitiated housewife is seized with despair when she recalls the fact that her scales are broken or that she has none. One woman who insists that “measuring with a cup and spoon is good enough” for her had the following rules copied on the typewriter, and tacked on her kitchen wall: One pound of liquids equals one pint. One cunce of flour equals two tablespoonfuls. One pound of butter equals two cupsful. One pound of ficur equals four cupsful. One Pound of granulated sugar equals two large cupsful. One pound of powdered sugar equals two and a half cupsful. ——+o+— Another Freak. From the Chicago Daily News. “That young man of yours,” sald the ob- serving parsnt, as his daughter came down to breakfast, “should apply for a job in a dime museum.” “Why, father,” exclaimed the young lady, in teres of indignation, “what do you mean?” ‘I noticed when I passed through the hall t2 last night,” answered the old man, “that, had two heads upon his shoul- Gers. “ € THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, JANUARY 29, 1898-24 PAGES. HOUSEHOLD HINTS Many housékeepers think of cranberries but as a sauce for a turkey dinner, when infact they cannot appear upon the table teo oftea for the health of the family. Not only are they an excellent appetizer and tenic, but,-eaten raw, they are sald to be ‘an excellent. remedy for indigestion and biliousness, and, cooked, a popular rémedy for erysipelas, taken internally or applied as a poultice. The value of the cranberry as a medicinal agent was early recognized by the American aborigines, who used to Prepare poultices from them to extract venom from wounds made with poisoned arrows. Cranberry satce is often made in a haphazard fashion that militates against the best results. Ihe proportions should always be accurately observed in its prep- aration, and sauce in perfection, with the berriés whole and clear, the skins tender and almost a jelly, will be the result. To one quert of cranberries take one pint of sugar and one-half pint of water; put all together on the stove in a granite kettle (mever on any account use -tin even in straining the jelly), and cook after it begins to boil, just ten minutes, without stirring, only shaking the kettle gently occasionally to prevent sticking. This is an easy rule to remember for any quantity you wish to make, as it requires half as much sugar as cranberries and half as much water as sugar. Should you prefer the strained jelly, the ‘cranberries may be rapidly cooked in Sust enough water to cover and then strained through a cheese-cloth bag. Allow to every cup of juice three-quurters of a cup of sugar, and, returning to the fire, boil until it jellies, which will be in a few moments. Turn into molds to harden. NEW YORK FASHIONS What Women of Wealth Are Wearing This Winter. While mock duck cannot deceive by its name the elect or even the non-elect into the supposition that they are indulging in poultry or game, it is a dish that can afford to appear upon the family bill of fare far oftener than the genuine fowl. Ask your butcher to cut from the round of beef, a little below the rump, a slice about two and one-half inches thick, and inte one edge of this let him make an incision about twelve inches long and six inches deep, to serve as a pocket. Spread your steak out on the meat board, sprinkle with salt and pepper and stuff the pocket with a rather dry dressing of bread crumbs, seasoned to taste with onion, celery, sage or sweet marjoram. When this is in place roll the steak up like a music roll, binding it firmly round and round with string or thin strips of muslin. Put into a broad- bottomed, shallow kettle or a dripping pan a little suet, and when this is fried out and moking, brown your roll in it, turning it with a pancake turner or a broad-tined fork, so as not to pierce the fiber of the meat. As soon as well browned, but not scorched, pour over it one or two cups of boiling water, cover closely and set back on the range or in the oven, where it will simmer slowly and steam tender. It may be necessary to add a little more water from time to time. When ready to serve remove carefully to a hot platter, thicken the gravy remaining in the kettle, season more if necessary and pour around the meat. Serve with currant jelly and the usual concomitants of duck, and you will doubtless ‘have frequent calls for this sub- stantial and appetizing dish. As long, slow cooking is essential, three or four hours should be allowed for its successtul evolution from “flesh” to “fow! An authority on the care of hardwood floors says that water is the worst posst- ble thing to use upon them. Any liquid spilled on a polished floor, unless wiped up at once, leaves u dark, ugly spot; and if there is a scratch, discoiors it perma- nently. Sweep daily, and dust with a piece of ingrain carpet, under the foot, or wrap- ped about a broom. If there are soiled spots, wipe up with turpentine. Remember, however, if the floor is waxed, this will remove the wax, which must be epplied again, being care- ful not to extend the waxing beyond the original spot. Melt a little beeswax in a cup over the register, or in a hot bath, on the back of the range. Apply with a soft cloth and rub hard. You cannot put too much strength into waxing; but if you are polishing furniture or woodwork with pumice stone and water, rub evenly with a good many strokes, but do not bear on with much weight. Once a week all floors should be gone over with a weighted brush. These brushes are a great expense to start with, but pay for themselves in the end. They should always be covered when put away, and kept on the first floor. An admirable encaustic used by the French for polishing floors, furniture and marble is composed of one pound of wax and one pint of turpentine. Melt the wax in a water bath of gentle heat. When quite soft, remove from the fire and beat in the turpentine, If it is to be used on furniture, one gill of alcohol should also be well stirred in, unless a soft finish is desired, when the alcohol may be omitted, and a gill of par- affine oil added instead. SKIRTS SHOW A DEAL OF TRIMMING Dresses Designed for Wear in a Warmer Southern Clime. STYLISH CLOTH COSTUMES (Copyright, 1898, by Bacheller Syndicate.) Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, January 28, 1598. UST ENOUGH snew fell this morn- ing to leave the ave- nue slimy. Cab horses and carriage horses slipped and slid, displaying wor- ried and wild-eyed ecuntenances. A lit- tle old Frenchman in a ragged black coat tottered about with a barrel organ, sing- ing the Marsefllaise in a high, cracked trying to penetrate D WAZ voice, strained with the closely curtained and inhospitable win- dows. The women who were abroad had excuse to lift their’ ékirt$ boldly, giving full effect to the ruffles of bright silk frill- ing and fluttering abont their ankles, The sun had come~ut ahd it touched a bank of white hyacinths if a florist’s win- dow, and an old, old womah who was covet- ing them and an up-to-date girl who tilted on her toes and tried'to look happy while deing so. The girl was in'black, with two brilliant color patcHés, lke a black bird with red crest and ‘wings. The black of her was. rough black, almost shaggy.’ It was tailor black, perfect In fit and curve. Six narrow ruffles broke’ the line of it, ruffles that every person on the block re- Spected and turned;to gaze after. The ruffles represented jaundreds of dollars, which accounted forthe »reverence that was paid them; dollars enough to absolve the little Frenchman .from singing the Marseillaise again: until summer and to keep the old woman in white hyacinths till she dies, and to do any number of other things. The ruffles were made of braid. Tke braid was woven in elaborate scroli figures, which gave a quaint raised design upon its surface and filled’ the lower edge of it just enough to make a wavy natural ruffle of it, so that it could be set upon tie skirt without gathering. To wear natural ruffles of this sort is: the ambition of five wemen out of six at the present time: A Striking Contrast. The girl with the tilt and the ruffles wore a Russian blouse jacket and a big black hat covered with plumes. Aside from the rufttes, what mede her a featur? in the streetscape was the emphatic con- trast of her shaggy black with her two touches of burnt orange. Her “drop skirt,” showing at the street crossings, and the long scarf tie at-her throat were of the vivid new color, just making its spring bow in the shops, which is perfect: ly described by its name, “burnt orange. A block farther along ‘a closed carriage drew up to the curb and out of it stepped @ woman, who, throwing back her wrap to the footman, crossed the pavement to a bric-a-brae shop, and for a minute only The pincushion, for awhile superanuated and retired from active service, is again out in force, and much larger than life. Many of the new cushions are almost the size of the top of the dressing table, and as ornate as fancy can devise and fingers execute. Their relative popularity may be gleaned from the fact that while at Christmas time the Woman’s Exchange of New York disposed of 135 centerpieces, 152 sofa pillows, 336 bags and 446 frames, that lately despised article, the pincushion, found 791 purchasers. A cranberry pudding, that hails from Canada, is highly recommended. Sift to- gether two cupfuls of pastry flour and a half teaspoonful of salt. Mix into this two-thirds of a cup of sour milk, in which a half teaspoonful of soda has been dis- solved, and beaten until it ceases foam- ing, and a half cupful of molasses. Add one well-beaten egg and a cup and a halt of flavored cranberries. Pour into a but- tered pudding dish, and steam—closely cov- ered—an hour and a half. Serve with a sweet sauce. light tan cloth dress was covered from hem to waist with Vandyke designs in black satin stripes, woven into the cloth and running around the skirt horizontally. Near the bottom these stripes were set far enough apart to be emphasized by narrow black velvet ruffles placed between them, in Vandykes also. Higher up the stripes crowded each other as closely in their deep points as proper contrast with the tan made possible. The blouse waist fitted with a high corselet or Spanish bod- ice, Vandyked like the skirt. The blouse itself was of an oriental silk in shades of tan, orange and green. Black satin re- vers, turned back from a puffed front of white chiffon. The sleeves of the blouse material had no epaulettes to cap them, but a black satin ruffie was set in at the top, a device adopted by many women who expect to see plain shoulders almost immediately, and are having late winter dresses made with the small sleeve orna- ments that can be ripped out in three minutes. Of Blue Gloth: ~ A young. matron went past. with head held,erect and showing the satisfied look that is, to me, more characteristic than any other one thing of the well-to-do New York woman who has reached twenty-five. Her dress was of royal blue eioth, with a deep flounce at the bottgm, and wbove that the skirt was shirrred’to the waist line. Bands of black velvet ribbon set off the shirring. ~ F Behind her an oldgr we in stopped to K at dandelion ‘flower look at an embarras: ‘ard apd wondered Jogxe ie had ‘made Few tarts or pies are more of a delight to the eye as well as palate than the crimson, slightly acid cranberry. The filling for the open shell of the tart is the sauce, cooked according to the regular for- mula, and the covering should be a lattice work of puff paste, laid over the top, form- ing diamonds or squares, as fancy and the heart of the cook dictate. A teaspoonful of vanilla added to a cranberry pie gives the flavor of cherries. In roasting beef, dredge with flour, salt and pepper, then sear quickly in hot oven or in suet on top of stove, put in a cool oven, and finish roasting, allowing ten minutes to a pound. During cold weather use alcohol to wash windows. This prevents the windows from freezing, and gives them a fine polish. In mending gloves, use fine cotton thread, instead of silk, which is apt to cut the kid. In preparing carrots for cooking, always scrape; never peel. ————_-. Mr, Wildwest—“I suppose it’s all right, but I can’t help feeling that this continual presence of a chaperone is a reflection cn my character.” Miss Two Seasons—“Oh, nonsense! It’s lots more fun this way. Out west you are on ycur honor, while here you shift the entire responsibility fo ome conduct upon the ne; she’ asleep in a moment.” J Sises Life. P ered with extremely Tae waist ae nether dress of a orplsh “That man Crumlett has more invitations | slate color was finished at bottom to dinner than any other man in town.” enormously deep jet and Road “How does he work it?” chenille, At the is a glint” o} “He tells every hostess with a grown- | orange. = up daughter that she must have married Skirts Ar immed. much below the legal age.”—Cleveland.|- 1 do not remember @hat in a walk of an Plain Dealer. bbugiand.a.tall, Olympus Up to Date, that poked up ina d what to do about th in the season. The Ade was ob emouh Pcted we. rows of narrow iy skirt; each band dmizned little flat eravat bow at circle under a side of the jacket of the swith n hat, trim. was one of the sights of the day. Her: plique. From under a high Medici collar of sable came long scarf ends of burnt orange satin, fastening ith steel orna- ments. There was a large black hat with Cleveland’s Baking Powder does the work just right every time. > That's why all the leading Teachers of Cookery use and recommend it. dark green and reseda feathers, and rosettes of oraige. For Wear in Florida. Another dress, prepared for a trip to Florida, is of pale tan cloth. The skirt has @ wide flounce, headed by a wavy ruffle and trimmed with very narrow jet cords. The waist has a guimpe neck of tortoise blue satin, covered with lace and outlined with the narrow jet trimming. Below the guimpe came three circular frills of the tan cloth, and, below these, the waist in the middle of the front only is arranged to Eouch over the belt and is jet trimmed. A spring model that very soon will be of considerable interest has a skirt of tur- quoise blue silk, over which is hung fine FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN The Matter of Neckwear Demands the Most Oareful Consideration. Stocks and Collars Are Unusually High at This Season—The End is Not Yet. white lawn kilted and most daintily em- | Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. broifered. The lawn skirt is edged with a NEW YORK, January 28, 1898. frill, and a ruche of the same material In no American city is so much attention given to collars as in this, and the conse- quence is that one can often tell the stran- gers on the street by the difference in the cut of their stocks. Stocks is a mild word to use for the new enveloping covering which modestly con- ceals every particle of neck and often the ears as well. The new spring styles are often extreme when they first appear, and on this well-known fact is based our only hope that by next fall our collars will not have met and united with our bonnets. The collars cf the new cloth gown are very high in front, and are generally a part of the vest of the gown, of some ma- terial or cloth which contrasts or harmon- izes with the skirt and bodice. Toward the ears the collar begins to grow higher, and it is elongated until by the time it reaches the seam in the center of the back it con- sists of a high, rolling piece of cloth, often cut up the center, with two points which if straight instead of being curved out would almost extend to the crown of the head. This sounds exaggerated, but it looks weil when properly cut and shaped. For shaped and well shaped they must be, and it is wise to remember that such shaping can only be done by an expert and the ordinary dressmaker had best be allowed to choose a less ambitious finish. On a plain cloth gown a collar of this sort has no trimming whatever, but in this present era of elaboration such gowns are not plentiful, and the satanic collars set forth above are trimmed with fur, jet, &c., continuing the decoration of the gown, Im High Favor. Tucked yokes, sleeves and collars, which have been such a feature of winter gowns, still continue high in favor. A gown with @ tight-fitting tucked waist terminated in a tucked collar, which was merely normal at the back and front, that is, extended only to the Ine of the chin and hair, but came up in points on either side, which met the lche of the ear. This collar, of course, was fastened on one side. It was a beautiful model, but it would require a neck more swanlike than that possessed by the aver- age woman to wear it with success. The tucked yoke, sleeves and collar of this waist showed plainly, but the rest of the bodice was covered by an overdress of cloth edged with fur and slashed at each side to show the tucking underneath. The openings were laced with gold cord and the effect was most elaborate: For the silk and flannel shirt waists, which are so extensively worn, there are collars, ties and stocks of all sorts, very many of them designed to appear above the edge of a coat with reveres. A huge cravat of glace si with a high, well-fit- ting stock, made of the narrowest accord- ion plaiting, has two ‘ge bows in front, also plaited, joined by a loose knot in the middle. These cravats are made in the prettiest and brightest colors, and are a most becoming finish to a dark bodice or a white one either. Elaborate Silk Ties. ‘The ribbon going twice about the neck and then tying in front in a bow, or pre- ferably a four-in-hand, has evolved into elaborate silk ties, with plaited or ruffled ends, which is knotted so that one end is above the other, and both show. In this same class are the plaid and striped rib- bons and ties which grow more and more plentiful as spring approaches, although just now the stripes are in the ascendent. Many ties are made with lace-edged ends. A particularly handsome one was of dar! red bengaline, edged with heavy yellow lace. A variation of this variety of four-in- hand was seen on a cheviot gown, of a dark green and blue Scotch plaid. The stock was of the same material as the gown, and the knot was made some dis- tance down upon the front of the gown. At each side of the collar was a project- ing piece of cheviot, lined with velvet of a contrasting shade. Indeed, all gowns which have not collars cut up high in the back must have either lace or tabs of the material of the gown, to fill up and cover that space at the nape of the neck, which artists are apt to consider worth seeing. May Be Mnde at Home. The mull and muslin de soie creations have not yet grovfn so popular that one is obliged to taboo them, and may be made at home with great success. A yard and three-quarters or two yards of muslin de soje of the desired shade is used. In width the scarf is from six to eight inches, ac- cording to the fancy of the maker. It should be edged with wide lace of a deli- cate pattern, and an insertion of narrow lace of the same pattern improves it. It is then folded twice about the neck, over a ribbon of the same color, and tied in a huge bow in front. A tiny ruffle of lace at the back of the neck will improve the follows the hem back and front, and is raised high at the sides. Skirts of this general order promise to be among the most popular things offered for warm weather. The lawn bodice is trimmed with lace insertion in zigzag designs, fol- lowed by fine lawn ruffles. Down the frcnt come scarf ends of turquoise blue silk, and at the waist is a draped silk belt. To go with this dress is a brown straw hat trimmed with blue and white satin and with shaded blue and brown curved quills. ELLEN OSBORN. NATURAL COSMETICS. The List of Vegetable Products Good for Teeth and Complexion. From the Philadelphia Press. Almonds are very soothing to the skin, and many foreign women use crushed al- monds instead of soap for their faces and hands to keep them fair, soft and white. Oil of almonds, also, may be rubbed into the skin at night, and is better than cold cream, especially if reaily pure oil of al- monds, and not a mere imitation. As for the so-called almond soap, it is very rare that the almond has any part in it. It somewhat resembles almond in its odor, but this odor comes from benzole, which is taken from tar oil and other substances not injurious to the skin, but not so bene- ficial as real. almond powder, e “nut quan- tity” of which forms a paste in the water, and is a splendid beautifier. Basil, though not a cosmetic plant, is a skin beautifier, because it purifies the air wherever it grows, and pure air is a skin beautifier. In India this plant is sacred to Krishna, and is named after the nymph beloved by Krishna. It was he, in fact, who changed her into the plant. It is also sacred to Vishnu, and necklets and rosaries are made of Its stalks and roots.. No Hin- oo house is without it; it absorbs the «carbonic acid of the alr, and gives forth its disinfecting, vivifying oxygen. Benzoin is a genuine cosmetic of nature. It is the gum of the bengoin tree. The best benzoin comes from Siam. It is the frank- incense of the Jews and the incense of Ro- man Catholics, Hindus, Buddhists, Ma- homedans, etc. The Chinese fumigate their houses with it, and, owing to its grateful perfume, vanilla pomade and pastilles are made with it. As a cosmetic it has no su- perior. A few drops added to water makes what is called “‘virginal milk,” which, used as a lotion, keeps the skin wondrously soft end fair and prevents premature wrinkles. Cedar wood in powder or as a tincture is excellent for the teeth, and imparts an agreeable perfume to the breath. Citron is another subgtance that can be used with advantage to the face and hands instead of soap. No toilet table, indeed, ought to be without it, and if the fingers and nails are well rubbed in a quarter of citron every time the hands are washed they will never require the manicure’s aid. During the day, indeed, it is better to rub the hands with citron than to use water. Cucumber is another of nature’s own cosmetics. Never throw away cucumber peelings. Boil them and use the water for the toilet. Here also a slice of cucumber may be used instead of soap, with advan- tage to the skin. Dill water is as good as rose water for the complexion, and for some skins perhaps better; it makes the skin paler. Still another of nature's cosmetics is the elderflower, famous for its cooling qualities. It makes an exquisite wash for the face and an excellent ofl for the hair. Lavender is not precisely a cosmetic, yet a few drops in the toilet water are very refreshing. The hygienic virtues of laven- der are well known. All spices are air purifiers and air cool- ers. It is a fact that very few epidemics visit places filled with the perfumes of spices—cloves, mace, cinnamon, etc. A room perfumed with spices and eucalyptus remains cocl on the hottest summer day, and defies disease resulting from tmpure air. There is no better antiseptic in nature than musk—real musk, of course. The Chinese use it also to dye their hair and eyebrows. —_—____-e-_____ HOW TO COOK CORNMEAL. Simple Suggestions That Will Make It a Real Delicacy. From the Chicago Times-Herald. It is only recently that women have ap- preciated the value of good cookery. The simple every-day things have been con- sidered of little importance and often en- tirely neglected, Even the cook books give but little information about some of the things which everybody should ‘know. Among these is cornmeal. When it is properly prepared it is a healthy article of food. But as it is usually cooked it is indi- gestible and unfit for even a strong stom- ach. The common way of making corn- meal mush, for instance, is to stir the meal without measuring it into boiling water until it is thick, and when it has stock, although it will add to the already complicated affair of adjustment unless it is first sewed to the ribbon stock which went on first. White mull ties peep out in the most fetching way from heavy fur coats and capes, and remind one of “winter in the lap of spring.” If one wishes to utilize for this purpose the white mull ties of a decade ago it is only necessary to them with lace or with knife-piaiting and tie them in a large bow. They will not go about the neck, as at that time they were not worn so long, but will form a be- coming addition to a winter costume never- theless. Of the white collar little can be said ex- cept that women should learn from men that collars which are not spotless are a reproach. Few women would think of changing a collar once a day, and until they learn the necessary lesson that irre- Proachable linen is a necessity and two collars are not enough to own when one Wears shirt waists constantly there will be much room for reform in the linen col- lar question. At present a high white col- lar with club ties are more worn than, the turn-over collars with a wide ribbon going about them twice. MABEL BOYD. oe MUSIC IN A TOMB. Mrs. Ireland Has a Music Box to Play Daily ina V From the Pittsburg Dispatch. Mrs. Ireland, widow of Robert Ireland, has decided to make Saratoga her home, the better to carry out the instructions of her husband, whose body rests in a vault in Greenridge cemetery annex, near Sara- toga. .Mr. Ireland, who died four months ago, was passionately fond of music. Long ago he requested that, whichever of th» two departed first, the survivor should honor the memory of the deceased by having a music box or some similar instrument placed in the sepulcher and played at fre- quent intervals. Sexton Moslin agreed to allow Mrs. vre- lard to place a small oak tabic at the a of the casket, on which were a handsome music box and a vase of flowers. Widow Ireland, who carries the key of the 1usie box, visits the cemetery daily, rain or shine, and pays musical rence to the memory of the deceased. While the favor- ite airs of sacred m=2lody are being ren- dered she calmly sits on the casket close to the vase and lovingly communes with :he spirit of the deceased. More than 200 bod- ies are storad in the big vault, and as the silence is so dense that a heurtbeat a most creates an echo, the impressive but weird notes of the -music floating over the cask- ets and emerging through the iron-grated doors fairly border on the supernatural. An Egeg-Joke Rolling. From the Clevelapd Plain Denler. At a small social gathering the other night somebody started the egg joke a- rolling. “Did you ever hear the story of the hard-boiled egg?” he solemnly inquired of some one across the table. “No,” was the innocent answer. “It's hard to beat,” said the joker with much gravity. You can’t help smiling at these things, and after the laugh died down somebcdy else sprung this: “Did anybody hear about the egg in the coffee?” “No,” said an obliging somebody. “That settles it,” remarked the funny. man, blandly. Of course there was another laugh, end then a brief silence. It looked as if the egg jokes had been exhausted. But presently a little woman at one en@ of the table inquired in a high sop' voice if anybody present had heard the story of the three eggs. The guests shook their heads, and one man said “No.” The little woman smiled. “Two bad,” she said. Woman With a Frostbitten Ear. From the West Point (Neb.) Republican. We rise to ask for information. Does the memory of man extend hack far enough to remember ever seeing a woman with frost- ed ears? We have reached the slope on the other side of life, but a woman with a frostbitten ear we have seen not. The architects of woman's headgear never build them with any thought of warmth, and the brevity of them precludes taking in the ears, unless they are extremely long, and no matter how cold the weather, almcst every lady you see on the stree: will face the most biting wind, while her ears look like a danger signal on either side cf her head. The only way we can account for thé phenomena is the wonderful warm heart each one of these dear creatures car- ries in her bosom. They are styled tho veaker. sex, but for real fortitude to stand pain, aGffering and cold they can put to me the bravest “lord of creation” on earth, ——+e+______ A Hasty Conclusion. From Life. Attorney—“You say you had called to see Miss Billings and was at the house at the time the burglary was committed?” Witness—“Yes, sir.” “Then how did it happen that when the prisoner dashed into the room and assault- ed you, you leaped through the window and went home, making no attempt to defend the lady or give the alarm?” “I thought it was her father.” cooked five or ten minutes it is done. By this process it is hard and raw, and wholly unfit to eat. It is surprising how much it is improved by a little extra cooking, and it can be made a delicacy with a very little trouble. Take one quart of water, add one tea- spoon of salt. When it boils stir in one cup of yellow cornmeal. Let it boil for ten minutes, then set it back on the stove, where it will cook slowly and not bi for one hour, stirring crumbs and quickly a pleasant surprise to those who have been accustomed to eating it the old-fashioned way. Corn bread, or “johnny cake,” as it is often called, is greatly improved by the following directions: pee for on the stove, and when it is hot stir in the cornmeal and let it cook for ten or “You n't mean te gay they are engaged! Isn't a , ee